Historical Textiles

Presented at the CHNT28

The contribution deals with the question of visual identities, visual design and codes, especially clothing, from prehistoric and antique societies, and how these are used in popular media. The questions we have to ask are:
- What is a “visual code”?
- How do textiles contribute to identity?
- How is visual coding used in popular media to depict prehistoric and ancient societies?

The materials of six Karen textiles from the British Museum's collection were investigated with the main aim of studying the production changes over the course of the nineteenth century and how these changes related to local and colonial trade networks. The textiles span chronologically from the 1830s to the early 1900s according to their attribution dates, and include traditional garments such as tunics and skirts, in addition to representing a broad colour palette and different dyeing and weaving techniques. The investigation was conducted non-invasively by using digital microscopy, broadband multispectral imaging (MSI) and fibre optic reflectance spectroscopy (FORS). The results guided a sampling campaign during which samples were taken and investigated by optical microscopy (OM), scanning electron microscopy energy dispersive X-ray spectrometry (SEM-EDX) and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to diode array detector and tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS). Local natural dyes, such as red and yellow from Morinda citrifolia, lac dye (Kerria lacca), gamboge (Garcinia sp.), turmeric (Curcuma longa), indigo and tannins were found in the older textiles, supporting a possible early production, whereas mixtures of natural and synthetic dyes, including synthetic alizarin (CI 58000), rhodamine B (CI 45170), orange I (CI 14600), diamond green B (CI 42000), diamond green G (CI 42040), auramine O (CI 41000), naphthol yellow S (CI 10316), chrysamine G (CI 22250), crystal violet (CI 42555) and Pigment Red 53:1 (CI 15585:1) were identified in the later textiles. Observations on mordants revealed the use of aluminium, tin and chrome, whereas fibre characterisation highlighted the use not only of cotton (Gossypium sp.) but also of felted wool imported from Europe and Chinese silk dyed with the Chinese cork tree (Phellodendron chinense) yellow dye. The results draw an interesting picture of the introduction of new dyeing materials and techniques in Myanmar over the nineteenth century, and how these impacted the production of traditional Karen textiles.

W pierwszej połowie XVIII wieku w apartamentach królewskich pałacu w Wilanowie pojawił się nowy wystrój tekstylny. Ściany Sypialni Króla zostały udekorowane kosztownym welurem wzorzystym pochodzącym najprawdopodobniej z Włoch. W 2005 roku po badaniach i licznych analizach stanu zachowania tkanin z Sypialni Króla zadecydowano o zdjęciu ze ścian oryginalnego weluru. Największe zniszczenia zostały spowodowane przez długotrwałe, nieograniczone wystawienie tkanin ściennych na działanie promieniowania UV i IR, które przyczyniło się do nieodwracalnych fizyko-chemicznych i optycznych zmian. Na przestrzeni trzystu lat kolor tkanin uległ zmianie i stał się szarożółtozielony. Pierwotny kolor weluru można było dostrzec przy szwach i pod dekorującymi go galonami.

espanolLas danzas constituyen un hito para la comprension del traje cortesano del siglo XV castellano, ya que debieron ser uno de los pocos actos sociales donde apreciar el vestido femenino en movimiento. En un momento dominado por la estetica masculina de las prendas, y en que el traje aun contenia una potente impronta guerrera, las danzas constituian para el traje de las damas uno de los pocos momentos en que jugar un papel activo en el protocolo cortesano de la Castilla medieval. El movimiento suave pero dinamico, convertia los trajes cortesanos en obras de arte ampulosas y llenas de destellos. Vestidos como prendas estaticas debido a la riqueza y peso de sus materiales, en los momentos del baile se hacia visible el lujo de sus sucesivas capas, y se llevaba hasta el limite la estetica de sus formas. La danza se hace imprescindible para comprender el sentido de un traje que en cada una de sus prendas, y en su conjunto –solo visible mientras durase el movimiento– conformaba la imag...

"This book offers a fascinating journey through the history and culture of textiles in Africa drawn from the private collection of Karun Thakar, widely considered to be one of the best in the world. This collection of rare and exquisite textiles from Central, Northern, and West Africa includes weavings from Ghana, Nigeria, and the Ivory Coast; embroideries, veils, and haiks from Morocco and Tunisia; and raffia fabrics from Congo. Organized by region, each piece is dramatically photographed to highlight the extraordinary colors, patterns, and skill with which it was created. Drawn from a collection consisting of over 4,000 pieces, this book illustrates the most important textiles from the renowned collection. The book provides not only a thrilling sample of timeless patterns and designs but also a historical perspective that deepens our understanding of the importance of woven materials in the African tradition."

Artykuł omawia spuściznę Władysława Łozińskiego przechowywaną w Centralnym Państwowym Historycznym Archiwum Ukrainy we Lwowie. Jego integralną część stanowi aneks, w którym przedstawiono wykaz jednostek wchodzących w skład zespołu 135 ze wspomnianego archiwum (tłumaczenie własne z języka ukraińskiego). Lwowska spuścizna Łozińskiego zasługuje na szersze omówienie, dotychczas żaden z badaczy jego życia i twórczości nie skorzystał z tego cennego zespołu. Różnorodność materiałów doskonale odzwierciedla różnorodne zainteresowania Łozińskiego, jego zaangażowanie w życie społeczne i kulturalne nie tylko Lwowa, ale całej Galicji.

Cilj rada je izrada odjevnog predmeta - kabanice te primijeniti postupke uzorkovanja tiskom i vodoodbojne obrade kako bi se ostvarila estetska vrijednost ali i funkcionalnost predmetra. Primijenit će se različite tehnike analognog tiska u kombinaciji s digitalnim tiskom te će se provesti i vodoodbojna obrada materijala obzirom na namjenu (kabanica). Ispitat će se međusobni utjecaj predobrade i otiska te će se optimirati parametri tiska i predobradbe u svrhu postizanja optimalne kvalitete otiska i zadovoljavajućeg svojstva vodoodbojnosti

Transformation of the Armenian Community in Poland under the Influence of the Union with the Holly See The article is an outline of the problem and the introduction to further research on the process of Latinization of the rites of Polish Armenians. So far researchers have primarily underlined the influence of the Catholic Church on Polonization of Armenians. They indicated that the union between Armenian and Catholic churches accelerated the process of Catholization of Armenian settlers. However questions on what the Catholization process actually looked like, its course, and symptoms have remained mostly unanswered. The way the unification process was accomplished in 1630 by bishop Mikołaj Torosowicz, himself a rather controversial personality, accompanying conflicts and divisions in the initial period contributed to deepening the existing differences. The author is trying to find answers to several important questions, among the others of how the activity of the Papal College in ...

Pretende-se averiguar o interesse de José Leite de Vasconcelos (1858-1941) pelo Oriente como área ou tema de investigação através da sua participação em encontros científicos, nomeadamente o Congresso Internacional de Orientalistas e o Congresso de Arqueologia do Cairo. O intelectual surge associado à organização do X Congresso Internacional de Orientalistas, previsto para ter lugar em Lisboa no ano de 1892, publicando três ensaios no âmbito desse encontro. Analisam-se esses ensaios, e indaga-se a respeito da presença do Oriente na sua obra, de que forma e com que relevância. Através da sua participação em duas sessões do Congresso de Arqueologia do Cairo, em 1905 e em 1909, tentar-se-á clarificar como as suas investigações, etnográficas e/ou arqueológicas, reforçam o seu papel de colecionador de fragmentos do Oriente.

Članak obrađuje konzervatorsko-restauratorske radove i istraživanja poduzeta u drugoj polovici 20. st. na benediktinskom samostanu sv. Kuzme i Damjana na otoku Pašmanu. Glavnina članka usredotočena je na dvije bilježnice, odnosno dva sveska dnevnika koje je ostavio o. Benedikt Celegin. Zahvaljujući njegovom znanju i interesu za povijest samostanskog sklopa, sažetom u dnevnicima punima bilješki i crteža, danas imamo potpuniju sliku duge povijesti rogovske opatije. Cilj je ovoga članka osvijetliti ulogu monaha u obnovi samostanskog sklopa. Zahvaljujući njihovim naporima, a u suradnji s tadašnjim Konzervatorskim odjelom u Zadru i mještanima, vrijedan spomenik kulture i jedan od glavnih glagoljaških centara u Hrvatskoj spašen je od daljnjeg propadanja.

Gabbeh is a type of rug and like carpet weaving, it has a lot of artistic value, so today it has attracted countless fans all over the world. Some researchers believe that the reason for naming this Gabbeh rug is its thickness and its use as protection against various factors such as a cold. It can be said that the history of the origin and production of Gabbeh dates back to the time of early humans because they initially used the skins of various animals as their mats and over time and with experience gained the first woolen mats from domestic animals to produce one of the They are Gabbeh.

The main problem hindering proper analysis and documentation of archaeological and his-torical textiles is the lack of co-operation between scientists dealing with different aspects of these objects – archaeological, artistic, historical and technological. The last one in-cludes the examining of manufacturing methods and analysis of the raw material and dyes used by chemical and physicochemical analysis methods, which is fundamental for proper identification of the object, as well as its origin and dating. The methods include: SEM, ICP, ATR/FTIR and AAS for determination of the raw material and other components of the object, the archaeological environment, analysis of the biodeterioration of archaeological textiles, as well as HPLC for analysis of the colour. This paper presents the methods and exemplary results of research conducted by the authors at the Technical University of Lodz, involving the analysing of archaeological textiles from the area of Poland and historical textiles...

An exceptional group of silk fragments was unearthed in 2014 from a shipwreck, which sank in the mid-17th century, in the Wadden Sea, The Netherlands. A unique example of 17th-century fashion, it comprises about 300 textile fragments from garments, parts of garments and furnishing fabrics, almost entirely made of silk and embroidered or woven with metal thread. These are in remarkably good condition, which may be related to the archaeological environment, the quality of the silk yarns in the fragments, and the presence of metal threads and other metallic objects from the shipwreck. Surviving archaeological maritime silk textiles are extremely rare, which makes this a distinctive find posing challenges for selecting the most suitable conditions for exhibition and storage. Scientific research was carried out with the aim to evaluate the response of modern and archaeological silks to temperature, relative humidity, light and oxygen, in order to define the most suitable parameters for t...