Robert Campin

When Philipp the Good, Duke of Burgundy (1396–1467), obliged his court to wear black as the new exquisite color of the court garments, it was no less than a revolution of inherited royal vesture conventions. This revolution established black, purple, and gold as the new aristocratic dress code. As this essay shows, Philipp’s color revolution only becomes comprehensible in the context of the Burgundian court’s elaborate textile production, which arrayed the protagonists with a semantics of color. The analysis will focus on the vesture practices of the royal congregation of the Golden Fleece and, especially, the paraments. Both as media of aristocratic representation and as artistically produced objects for a specific ritual context, the paraments tellingly reflect the concept of Philipp’s color strategy.

This article considers the generic and temporal heterogeneity of a painting titled Holy Family, made by the Antwerp painter Joos van Cleve around 1515. Hans Belting has used Joos’s hybrid painting, in which a still life appears before the Virgin and Child, to illustrate where ‘the era before art’ ends and the era of art proper begins, placing the genre of religious icon and the genre of still life on opposing sides of the line separating the medieval from the modern world. It is to Belting’s compelling account of the painting that this article responds by asking what is lost in the drawing of such periodizing lines.

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