Fodor's Maine, Vermont, & New Hampshire: with the Best Fall Foliage Drives & Scenic Road Trips
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About this ebook
COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE:
- Fodor's publishes the only print guidebook dedicated to all of Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire in one volumn
- Helpful articles on best seafood shacks, picturesque towns, and best local shopping finds
- A chapter dedicated to leaf peeping in Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire
TOURISM TRENDS:
- Acadia National Park set a record of 4.07 million estimated visits in 2021. That's a 15% increase the previous record of 3.5 million visits in 2018, and 23% more than the pre-pandemic five-year
- Amtrak now offers daily service between Burlington and New York City, as well as five daily round-trips between Brunswick, Maine and Boston, Massachusetts.
- Total number of passengers at Portland Internationl Airport was 1.7 million well on its way towards the 2019 totals of 2.1 travelers.
FULLY REDESIGNED!
- New front cover has eye-catching full-bleed images with key selling points on the front
- New back cover is fully-redesigned
- “Best of” Lists will visually engage the reader and provide an overview of the entire destination (best things to eat, see, do, drink, as well as what to read and watch before going)
- Visually focused with more color and images including more full and half-page images throughout and color-coded category icons
- Other useful features including Great Itineraries, Fall Foliage Drives, Calendar of Events, What to Read and Watch, Know Before You tips, and more
- “Travel Smart” (logistical planning tips section) now at the front of the book and redesigned to be more infographic in feel
- Stronger Voice and Opinions give all Fodor's guides more personality. Books are more friendly and conversational in tone, going beyond informational to being inspirational
CURATED AND RELEVANT:
- Focused coverage on only the best places so travelers can make the most out of their limited time.
- Carefully vetted recommendations for all types of establishments and price points.
CONCISE:
- Shortened reviews presented with brevity and focus.
Please see additional key selling points in the book main description
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Fodor's Maine, Vermont, & New Hampshire - Fodor's Travel Guides
15 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES
Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire offer terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.
1 Count Covered Bridges
There are 54 of these American symbols still in use in New Hampshire. In fact, the Cornish-Windsor Bridge (1866) is New England’s only covered bridge that connects two states, the country’s longest wooden bridge, and the world’s longest two-span covered bridge. (Ch. 5)
2 Get Away from It All
You won’t find high-rises or neon lights in Rangeley Lakes, just peace and quiet, panoramic vistas, beautiful sunsets, and a brilliant night sky. (Ch. 6)
3 Boating on Lake Champlain
The 107-mile-long lake is hugely popular for recreation—you can rent numerous types of vessels, take lessons, or, cruise aboard Spirit of Ethan Allen. (Ch. 4)
4 Have a Maine Lobster
A trip to Maine isn’t complete without a meal featuring the official state crustacean. Whether it’s a classic lobster dinner, a bowl of lobster stew, or a lobster roll, bring your appetite. (Ch. 7)
5 Boating on Lake Winnipesaukee
You won’t run out of space or adventures at New Hampshire’s largest lake. Rentals are available to explore more than 250 islands, and there are numerous waterfront restaurants. (Ch. 5)
6 Hike Mt. Monadnock
At 3,165 feet, Mt. Monadnock looms over southwestern New Hampshire. The only way to reach the summit is by foot, and the miles of trails attract well over 120,000 hikers each year. (Ch. 5)
7 Visit a Working Farm
Several Vermont farmers welcome visitors for a day, overnight, or a few days. Guests can help with chores like collecting eggs, milking cows, feeding sheep, picking veggies, or baking bread. (Ch. 4)
8 Explore Acadia National Park
At New England’s only national park, drive or bike the 27-mile Park Loop Road, climb the summit of Cadillac Mountain, or explore miles of trails and carriage roads. (Ch. 7)
9 Historic and Hip Portland
Old Port has eclectic restaurants and boutiques, while the Arts District has the Portland Museum of Art. The Eastern Promenade has a 2-mile paved waterside trail. (Ch. 7)
10 Cruise on a Windjammer
Pretty Camden Harbor and nearby Rockland are home ports for a fleet of owner-operated schooners that take guests on voyages around Maine’s rugged coast, peninsulas, and islands. (Ch. 7)
11 Ski Vermont
Snuggled in and around Vermont’s Green Mountains are nearly two dozen major ski resorts, including Sugarbush, Snow, Stratton, and Stowe. (Ch. 4)
12 Walk around Portsmouth
This port city is more than just boats. Great restaurants, galleries, and nightlife coexist with historic sites and cultural venues all within walking distance of each other. (Ch. 5)
13 Vermont Sugar Shacks
There are about 1,500 sugarhouses in Vermont. These shacks produce about 2.5 million gallons of syrup annually, or about half of all maple syrup consumed in the United States. (Ch. 4)
14 Wend Your Way through the White Mountains
Mt. Washington (6,288 feet) is the highest peak in New Hampshire and the northeastern U.S. There are great views, but it’s cold and windy even in midsummer. (Ch. 5)
15 Treat Yo’self at Ben & Jerry’s
At the Ben & Jerry’s Factory in Waterbury, take the half-hour guided factory tour to watch ice cream being made, then mosey over to the Scoop Shop for a treat. (Ch. 4)
WHAT’S WHERE
dingbat Vermont. Vermont has farms, freshly starched towns and small cities, quiet country lanes, and bustling ski resorts. The Green Mountain state is synonymous with cheese and maple syrup, and its billboard-free back roads may be the most scenic in the region.
dingbat New Hampshire. Portsmouth is the star of the state’s 18-mile coastline. The Lakes Region is a popular summertime escape, and the White Mountains’ dramatic vistas attract photographers and adventurous hikers farther north.
dingbat Inland Maine. The largest New England state’s rugged interior—including the Western Lakes and vast North Woods regions—attracts skiers, hikers, campers, anglers, and other outdoors enthusiasts.
dingbat The Maine Coast. Classic villages, rocky shorelines, and picturesque Main Streets draw thousands of vacationers to Maine.
dingbat Acadia National Park. Acadia National Park is where majestic mountains meet the coast; Bar Harbor is the park’s gateway town.
Maine’s Best Seafood Shacks
BITE INTO MAINE, CAPE ELIZABETH, ME
This spot serves high-quality lobster rolls from a cart near Portland Head Light and has additional locations in Portland and Scarborough. The contemporary twists make the trip worth it, and the LBT (Lobster, Bacon and Tomato) sandwich is sheer heaven.
MUSCONGUS BAY LOBSTER, MUSCONGUS, ME
Locals and summer folks chow down on delicious seafood straight from the sea; if you can, grab a table on the deck overlooking the expansive bay. It’s BYOB for now (a bar is planned for the future), so bring appropriate provisions. And, there’s a kids’ menu.
BOB’S CLAM HUT, KITTERY, ME
With fresh (never frozen) shellfish and a cheery, old-school vibe, Bob’s also serves up scrumptious, homemade sauces, including their tangy Moxie BBQ sauce, to smother over golden fried clams, alongside some of the creamiest New England clam chowder around.
SHANNON’S UNSHELLED, BOOTHBAY HARBOR, ME
The namesake of this shack first got the idea to set up shop when her father posed the simple question: Where can you buy a quick lobster roll in Boothbay Harbor?
The shack is now beloved for its grilled and buttered buns stuffed with whole lobsters and served with a side of garlicky, sea-salted drawn butter.
THE LOBSTER SHACK, OGUNQUIT, ME
A fixture since 1947 in Ogunquit’s bustling Perkins Cove, this cozy weathered-shingle lobster pound is just across from the oft-photographed footbridge. Choose from a 1⁄4- to a whopping 1-pound lobster roll, or try the delicious roll with hand-picked Maine crab meat.
FIVE ISLANDS LOBSTER COMPANY, GEORGETOWN, ME
Located on a lively working wharf overlooking Sheepscot Bay, this cheerful spot welcomes hungry folks with its delicious seafood and stunning views. The family-friendly atmosphere extends to the menu, which also has plenty of not from the sea
options.
THE HIGHROLLER LOBSTER CO., PORTLAND, ME
What many consider to be Portland’s top lobster shop has plenty going for it, from the friendly service to the creative (try the lime-jalapeño mayo) takes on traditional lobster rolls. Be sure to give the tantalizing lobby pop—lobster tail on a stick—a try.
THE SHUCK STATION, NEWCASTLE, ME
There’s a lobster roll on the menu, but here it’s all about oysters—fried oysters, fried oyster tacos, oysters Rockefeller, oyster po’boys, BBQ oysters, and of course, raw oysters. This laid-back and family-friendly joint has a kids’ menu and lots of local beers on tap.
THE CLAM SHACK, KENNEBUNKPORT, ME
For more than a half century, this shack has been known for speedy service and great takeout fare, like its traditional boiled lobster dinners and lobster rolls on freshly baked buns. Eat at one of several wooden picnic tables that overlook the Kennebunk River. There’s even a lemonade stand to complete the experience.
RED’S EATS, WISCASSET, ME
It’s not uncommon to see hungry customers forming long lines outside this famous red shack, which opened in 1938. The lobster roll (served with local butter) is a huge draw, but the menu features other staples like fried clams, shrimp, and scallops. Hot dogs, hamburgers, and grilled cheese round out the options.
Buy Local: Best Souvenirs
JAMS AND PRESERVES
Pick up strawberry preserves, apple butter, cranberry sauce, or blueberry jam at farmers’ markets or country stores like Old Country Store & Museum (NH), East Boothbay General Store (ME), or the Vermont Country Store.
MOCCASINS
Maine shoemakers craft some of the best moccasins, and Quoddy, known for its custom, made-to-order moccasins, deck shoes, and boots, is one of the best. Reach out when you’re Down East or back home; the wait for shoes is worth it. Ditto for Wassookeag, another great Maine maker of bespoke footwear.
CANVAS BAGS
Nothing says durability like canvas; nothing says coastal New England like sailing. Portland-based Sea Bags has creative, rope-handled totes made from recycled sails. Port Canvas in Arundel, Maine, also hand-crafts sporty, customizable canvas totes and duffels—perfect for lugging your souvenirs home.
ANTIQUES AND COLLECTIBLES
Collectibles and antiques abound from cities like Portland (Old Port District) to towns like Chester, VT; Littleton, NH; and Wells, ME. In Vermont, Route 100 winds from Wilmington to Stowe past craft studios and general stores. Along the coast, Maine’s Route 1 has Colonial furniture and architectural antiques shops, as well as quirky galleries.
MAPLE SYRUP
Each spring, sugarhouses tap their maple trees and boil the resultant sap down into syrup. Although it takes about 40 gallons of sap to make 1 gallon of syrup, locally made varieties are readily available—Grades A and B and in light, medium, and dark (for baking only) shades of amber. The best-known states are New Hampshire and Vermont.
TOYS
Vermont Teddy Bears are guaranteed for life; there’s even a hospital for Teddy emergencies! Vermont’s Real Good Toys makes finely crafted dollhouses and miniature accessories. New Hampshire’s Annalee Dolls are distinctive, cute, and collectible—especially the holiday ones.
YARN AND KNITWEAR
The wares of independent spinners and knitters can be found throughout the region. Noteworthy companies include Bartlettyarns, Inc., which has been in Maine since 1821; New Hampshire’s Harrisville Designs, and Maine’s Swans Island Company.
FLANNEL WOOLENS
New England’s textile industry declined in the 1920s and ‘30s, but Vermont’s Johnson Woolen Mills is still going strong. The warm, soft, and often boldly checked flannel shirts, jackets, capes, wraps, scarves, and hats sold in its factory store and elsewhere are splurge-worthy classics.
CRAFT BEER AND CIDER
New England has a long brewing history, but it’s the region’s newer, trendier operations that are most interesting, like New Hampshire’s Schilling Beer Co. and Vermont’s Hill Farmstead Brewery. There’s a small brewery (or cidery) in almost every city and small town. Notable cideries include Maine’s Urban Farm Fermentory and Vermont’s family-friendly Cold Hollow.
LOBSTER
Seafood markets, lobster pounds, and even some independent lobstermen sell lobster to-go. You have 48 hours (max) from purchase to cook them, and lobsters must be kept lightly chilled but alive, with claws rubber-banded, until then. Ask about shipping or look into online retailers like Maine Lobster Now, The Lobster Guy, and Lobsters New England.
Most Picturesque Towns in Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire
WOODSTOCK, VT
This quintessential Vermont town is ridiculously, wonderfully picturesque—classic covered bridges, local cheese makers, cider mills, working farms and orchards, sugar shacks, meandering brick streets, and a town center that is straight out of a Norman Rockwell painting.
EASTPORT, ME
Down East Maine is more than worth the hike, if only to pay a visit to Eastport, a picturesque seaside town with historic architecture situated on pristine Moose Island. A world apart, Eastport prides itself on its fishing and lobstering industries, excellent local arts scene, and vibrant indigenous community.
JACKSON, NH
With a village green reached via a covered bridge and a slew of charming country inns, farm-to-table eateries, and ruggedly scenic trails for hiking and cross-country skiing, this peaceful hamlet lies in the heart of the White Mountains.
CAMDEN, ME
With its brick architecture and Victorian mansions, Maine doesn’t get any more picturesque than this village. Situated in the heart of the Mid-Coast, the charming town with its restaurants, galleries, and boutiques is surrounded by a working harbor.
KEENE, NH
Stunning brick streets, charming maple farms, quaint storefronts, classic covered bridges, and a college town vibe combine to create the quintessential New England experience. The darling of the state’s southwestern Monadnock Region even has a white clapboard church with a soaring spire.
TAMWORTH, NH
The town is home to the often photographed Chocorua Lake and Mt. Chocorua. A clutch of villages—Tamworth, Chocorua, South Tamworth, Wonalancet, and Whittier—and six historic churches lie within its borders. It’s also home to Barnstormers Theatre, the country’s oldest repertory theatre.
WESTON, VT
A little less than 12 miles south of Okemo Mountain Resort, this little village really lives up to its much advertised charm and quaintness. The pictureperfect hamlet is home to the Weston Playhouse Theatre Company, a classic town green with Victorian bandstand, and an assortment of shops.
MONHEGAN, ME
Artists have flocked to Monhegan Island since at least the mid-19th century to relish both its isolated location and staggeringly beautiful terrain. The island’s dramatic cliffs overlook some of the most stunning coastal landscapes in Maine where puffin, seals, porpoises, and whales mingle among the bevy of smaller, rocky islands surrounding it.
STOWE, VT
The rolling hills and valleys beneath Mt. Mansfield, Vermont’s highest peak, create the tiny village of Stowe. Here you’ll find a few blocks of shops and restaurants clustered around a picture-perfect white church with a lofty steeple—not far from Stowe’s fabled slopes.
DORSET, VT
Surrounded by mountains and anchored by a village green that’s bordered by white clapboard homes and inns, Dorset has a solid claim to the title of Vermont’s most pictureperfect town. Dorset West Road, a beautiful residential road west of the town green, and the marble Dorset Church with its two Tiffany stained-glass windows, add to the charm.
WOLFEBORO, NH
Known as the country’s oldest summer resort, Wolfeboro is nestled along the shores of Lake Winnipesaukee. The downtown boasts boutiques and eateries, while the resident prep school, Brewster Academy, adds to the charm with its century-old, white clapboard buildings.
DAMARISCOTTA, ME
Just north of Wiscasset, this often overlooked village is surrounded by salt marsh preserves and oyster beds. The village’s historic brick architecture and quaint but vibrant Main Street overlooks the harbor where the annual and delightfully oddball Pumpkinfest and Regatta takes place.
Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire’s Best Beaches
FOOTBRIDGE BEACH, OGUNQUIT, ME
This spot offers excellent swimming, beach combing, and bodysurfing opportunities, as well as a boat launch for kayaks, small boats, and standup paddleboards. Typically less crowded than neighboring Ogunquit Beach, it’s reached by crossing a footbridge that runs over the Ogunquit River.
ROQUE BLUFFS STATE PARK, ROQUE BLUFFS, ME
Largely sandy, with some pebbly spots thrown in for good measure, this half-mile crescent beach offers bracing Atlantic Ocean swims as well as temperate dips in a 60-acre pond that backs up to the beach.
GOOSE ROCKS BEACH, KENNEBUNKPORT, ME
A wildly popular beach in warmer months, Goose Rocks Beach is treasured for its long stretch of clean sand and close proximity to town. Parking can be tough and permits are required, but it’s well worth the headache to get up early and snatch a spot.
WALLIS SANDS STATE BEACH, RYE, NH
This family-friendly swimmers’ beach near Portsmouth has bright white sand, a picnic area, a store, and beautiful views of the Isles of Shoals.
SAND BAR STATE PARK, MILTON, VT
Vermont is not known for its beaches, but its plethora of lakes means that there are actually quite a few worth checking out. This 2,000-foot-long beach remains shallow well out from shore, making it a perfect spot for families with young kids.
PEMAQUID BEACH, NEW HARBOR, ME
Pemaquid Beach is a draw for families and couples looking for a quintessential beach day complete with an umbrella, sand bucket, and ice cream, all of which can be rented or purchased from the kiosk near the changing facilities and community center.
MT. SUNAPEE STATE PARK, NEWBURY, NH
One of the prettiest and most relaxing of New Hampshire’s many noteworthy freshwater beaches, this family-welcoming stretch of sand in the shadows of one of the state’s favorite ski mountains is lovely for swimming, or renting kayaks, canoes, and stand-up paddleboards.
NORTH BEACH, BURLINGTON, VT
Located on Lake Champlain, the area’s largest beach is also the only one with lifeguards during the summer. There’s a grassy picnic area, a snack bar, and a playground, as well as kayak, canoe, and standup paddleboard rentals.
JASPER BEACH, MACHIASPORT, ME
Named after the many deep red pebbles scattered across its shore, this pocket beach tucked away in Howard Cove is definitely off the beaten path. Beach combers come to seek out the rare jasper stones among the equally red, volcanic rhyolite pebbles, while those seeking solitude find it in the salt marsh and fresh and saltwater lagoons.
SAND BEACH, ACADIA, ME
What this sandy beach lacks in size is well compensated by its commanding view of the mountains and craggy shores that draw millions of people to Mount Desert Island each year. Several trail heads dot the beach and lead up the surrounding cliffs, where you’ll be rewarded with spectacular panoramas of the shore and beach below.
MOWRY BEACH, LUBEC, ME
On the U.S.-Canadian border, this majestic beach has dramatic tides which produce excellent clamming conditions and superb beach runs at low tide. A small boardwalk leads through a heady mess of fragrant rose bushes out to the shore from where you can spy Lubec’s famous lighthouse, as well as its Canadian neighbors.
REID STATE PARK BEACH, GEORGETOWN, ME
One of the Pine Tree State’s rare sandy beaches, Reid State Park is a surfer’s and sunbather’s paradise. Rarely crowded, even in summer, the beach stretches a mile and a half along the Atlantic, with large, undulating sand dunes and essential nesting areas for some of the state’s endangered birds.
Historical Sites in Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire
PORTLAND HEAD LIGHT, CAPE ELIZABETH, ME
Built in 1791, this 80-foot lighthouse is one of New England’s most picturesque in any season. The keeper’s quarters (operational 1891–1989) house a seasonally open museum and gift shop; surrounding Fort William Park, site of an army fort between 1872 and 1964, is open year-round.
MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM, BATH, ME
The museum’s permanent exhibits cover it all from Bath Iron Works’s role in building the nation’s navy to a collection of more than 100 small wooden water crafts. In warmer months, board the 1906 schooner, the Mary E., for sails with docents.
STRAWBERY BANKE, PORTSMOUTH, NH
Located in Colonial downtown Portsmouth, the seasonal, 10-acre living-history complex has docents in period garb portraying tavern keepers, merchants, artisans, and other everyday folk, and more than 40 structures dating from the 17th to 20th centuries.
CANTERBURY SHAKER VILLAGE, LACONIA, NH
Established in 1792, this village practiced equality of the sexes and races, common ownership, celibacy, and pacifism; the last member of the community passed away in 1992. Engaging guided tours— you can explore on your own—pass through some of the 694-acre property’s more than 25 restored buildings, many of them with original furnishings, and there are daily crafts demonstrations.
BILLINGS FARM AND MUSEUM, WOODSTOCK, VT
Founded in 1871, this is one of the country’s oldest operating dairy farms. In addition to watching the herds of Jersey cows, horses, and other farm animals at work and play, you can tour the restored 1890 farmhouse, and learn about 19th-century farming and domestic life. Pick up some raw-milk cheddar while you’re here.
CHARLESTOWN, NH
Charlestown boasts one of New Hampshire’s largest historic districts, with about 60 homes—all handsome examples of Federal, Greek Revival, and Gothic Revival architecture (and 10 built before 1800)—clustered about the town center. Several merchants on the main street distribute interesting walking tour brochures of the district.
HILDENE, MANCHESTER, VT
Built in 1905, this 24-room Georgian Revival mansion was the summer home of Abraham Lincoln’s son Robert. It provides insight into the lives of the Lincoln family, as well as an introduction to the lavish Manchester life of the early 1900s. It’s the centerpiece of a beautifully preserved 412-acre estate, which also contains Hildene Farm and elaborate formal gardens.
BRETTON WOODS, NH
Even if you’re not staying at the dramatic Omni Mount Washington Hotel, it’s worth visiting as not only is it breathtaking but it was the site of the 1944 United Nations conference that created the International Monetary Fund and the International Bank for Reconstruction and Development (and the birth of many conspiracy theories). The area is also known for one of the state’s most beloved attractions, the Mount Washington Cog Railway, which was built in 1858.
MONTPELIER, VT
The country’s smallest capital city has a quaint, historic downtown that’s home to the Vermont History Museum; its Vermont-focused collection (everything from a catamount [the now-extinct local cougar] to Ethan Allen’s shoe buckles) began in 1838. A few doors away, the country’s oldest legislative chambers still in their original condition are found in the Vermont State House. Self-guided tours are available year-round, but free guided tours run from late June to October.
SHELBURNE MUSEUM, SHELBURNE, VT
Nothing says Vermont
like a big red barn, and the museum has two really big, really red barns that house American fine, folk, and decorative art as well as vintage toys, hats, decoys, firearms, a vintage carousel, miniature circus-parade figurines, and more than 200 horse-drawn vehicles.
Outdoor Activities in Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire
SKI VERMONT AND NEW HAMPSHIRE
Not far from the U.S.-Canadian border, some of New England’s best ski slopes (and top-notch resorts) can be found in Vermont’s Green Mountains (Jay Peak and Stowe) and New Hampshire’s White Mountains (Bretton Woods and Cannon Mountain).
CRUISING MAINE’S COAST
Experience Maine’s 3,478 miles of coastline from the water. Charter a boat, big or small, in any of the state’s harbors; a popular option is on a schooner ship. It can be chilly on the sea, even in summer, so you’ll need to layer and bring rain gear.
MILES OF BIKE TRAILS
Many of the region’s top ski resorts have become four-season destinations offering challenging mountain biking trails over the once snow-covered slopes. There’s also the 110-mile Kingdom Trails in Vermont and more than 500 miles of trails in New Hampshire.
PADDLE LAKE CHAMPLAIN
Leaf peeping and Vermont are virtually synonymous, but most visitors don’t think about taking in the Green Mountain State’s stunning fall foliage from out on the water. Best accessed from Burlington, you can rent a standup paddleboard or kayak to explore the lake while surrounded by majestic mountains covered in thick forests that put on a colorful display.
HIKE THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL
Tackling the entire length of America’s most notorious hiking trail is a commitment. You can always explore some of its most scenic stretches, however, many of them set along the 161-mile leg through New Hampshire. Featuring more miles above treeline than any other state, this is one of the route’s most challenging and rewarding sections, with steep inclines leading to stunning alpine tundra and breathtaking views.
BOATING ON THE ALLAGASH WILDERNESS WATERWAY
The 92-mile-long series of rivers, streams, ponds, and lakes that comprises this northern Maine waterway ribbon their way through the delicate, tundralike landscape of the Northern Woods. The waterway remains fairly rustic with limited resources along the route, which seems to be one of the major reasons it attracts fans of canoeing and kayaking.
LEAF PEEPING IN VERMONT
With its many nature preserves, green spaces, and hiking trails, Vermont shines in every season, but autumn may be its finest. You’d be hard-pressed to find a lovelier stroll through an autumnal Vermont landscape than in the charming village of Stowe, which is home to the Stowe Recreational Path, a paved, 5½-mile greenway that leads you to picture-perfect village and mountain views.
HIT THE LINKS IN MAINE AND NEW HAMPSHIRE
Coastal Maine and New Hampshire’s mountains have some stunning, beautifully maintained golf courses that reward players with great challenges and magnificent scenery. The course at Rockport’s Samoset Resort ranks among the best in coastal New England, while Crotched Mountain in the Monadnocks and Waukewan near Lake Winnipesaukee are top courses in New Hampshire.
EXPERIENCE A SCENIC BYWAY
Kancamagus Highway (The Kanc
), a 34.5-mile scenic byway that crosses New Hampshire from Lincoln near the Vermont border to Conway near Maine, passes through the White Mountains National Forest—a beautiful ride that’s truly magnificent in autumn. Stop along the way to admire the White Mountains Presidential Range or take a hike into the forest.
EXPLORE ACADIA NATIONAL PARK
Boasting around 160 miles of pristine coastal hiking trails and meandering carriage roads peppered with charming stone bridges, America’s oldest national park east of the Mississippi River offers bountiful opportunities to experience Maine’s raw, natural beauty.
Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire with Kids
Favorite destinations for family vacations in the region include Vermont’s Lake Champlain, New Hampshire’s White Mountains, and coastal Maine—but, in general, the entire region has plenty to offer families. Throughout New England, you’ll have no problem finding reasonably priced, kid-friendly hotels and family-style restaurants, as well as museums, beaches, parks, planetariums, and lighthouses.
LODGING
New England has many family-oriented resorts with lively children’s programs. Farms that accept guests can be great fun for children. Rental houses and apartments abound, particularly around ski areas. In the off-season, these can be especially economical, because most have kitchens—saving you the expense of restaurant dining for some or all meals.
VERMONT
ECHO Leahy Center for Lake Champlain, Burlington. Lots of activities and hands-on exhibits make learning about the geology and ecology of Lake Champlain an engaging experience.
Montshire Museum of Science, Norwich. This interactive museum uses more than 60 hands-on exhibits to explore nature and technology. The building sits amid 110 acres of nature trails and woodlands, where animals roam freely.
Shelburne Farms, Shelburne. This working dairy farm is also an educational and cultural resource center. Visitors can watch artisans make the farm’s famous cheddar cheese from the milk of more than 100 purebred and registered Brown Swiss cows. A children’s farmyard and walking trails round out the experience.
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Lost River Gorge and Whale’s Tale Waterpark, Lincoln and North Woodstock. Kids can scramble through boulder caves in Lost River Gorge, and float on inner tubes and bodysurf in a giant wave pool at one of New England’s biggest water parks. More family fun is nearby at Franconia Notch State Park.
Lake Winnipesaukee, Weirs Beach. The largest lake in the state, Lake Winnipesaukee provides plenty of family-friendly fun. Base yourself in the Laconia community of Weirs Beach, where kids can swim, play arcade games, cruise the lake, take a scenic railroad along the shoreline, and even see a drive-in movie.
SEE Science Center, Manchester. For kids who love LEGO, the models of old Manchester and the mill yard are sure to impress. There are also rotating exhibits and science demonstrations.
MAINE
Acadia National Park, Mount Desert Island. Head out on a whale- and puffin-watching trip from Bar Harbor, drive up scenic Cadillac Mountain, swim at Echo Lake Beach, hike one of the many easy trails, and don’t forget to sample some wild blueberry pie.
Maine Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum, Portland. For train fans, check out the scenic rides on these narrow-gauge trains. In the winter, they have Polar Express theme trips.
Coastal Maine Botanical Garden, Boothbay. The children’s garden
is a wonderland of stone sculptures, rope bridges, small teahouse-like structures with grass roofs, and even a hedge maze. Children and adults alike adore the separate woodland fairy area.
Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire Today
MAINE
In recent decades, Maine’s congressional delegation has hovered around 50/50—half Democrat and Republican, and half male and female, which somewhat resembles the makeup of the state. Voters legalized recreational marijuana in 2016, and the state now has nearly 100 retail pot shops. Since 2000, Somali immigration has generated both tensions and welcome cultural diversity in Lewiston and Portland. As paper mills shutter, farming is on the upswing, while the billion-dollar tourism industry struggles to find enough workers yet fuels rising real estate prices and rents in popular destinations.
VERMONT
Few states are more proud of its rugged, independent, and liberal spirit than Vermont. From Ethan Allen to Bernie Sanders, Vermonters have never been afraid to follow a different drumbeat and be outspoken about it. This is perhaps never more on display than in the state’s long-standing protection of the environment that borders on obsession. It’s one of only four states that ban billboards (Maine is the only other in New England), and strict regulations on land use and development makes many towns and villages appear as if pulled from Norman Rockwell paintings. During fall, the peak tourist season, the landscape literally takes your breath away with an array of fiery reds, golds, oranges, and bronze bursting from the hills and valleys. Cities are few and far between, with Burlington topping out at just 45,200 people, but a robust cultural and arts scene thrives throughout the state, thanks to the abundance of colleges, collectives, and individual artists that continually draw inspiration from the Vermont spirit and beauty. Locals and tourists do the same on the ski slopes, hiking trails, bike paths, and swimming holes, and there’s plenty for all.
NEW HAMPSHIRE
With its state motto of Live Free or Die
and a long-running political reputation as one of the nation’s swingiest—albeit slightly left of center—states, New Hampshire marches to its own drummer. The fifth smallest—and 10th least populous—state in America maintains a fierce libertarian streak, collects neither sales tax nor income tax, and each presidential year holds the country’s first primary (at least as of this writing—Nevada has made a bid to hold its primary earlier in 2024). Like the rest of northern New England, ruggedly mountainous New Hampshire is characterized by a mostly rural, heavily wooded topography that gives way to more densely populated small cities and suburbs only in its southeastern corner. Relatively prosperous, with the eighth-highest median household income in the country, New Hampshire has also enjoyed slow but steady growth in recent years, lagging behind only Massachusetts in population growth since 2010 among New England’s six states.
What to Read and Watch
LOBSTERMAN
Dahlov Ipcar, a native New Englander, is best remembered as a writer and illustrator of children’s books, many of which took place in her home state of Maine. One such classic is Lobsterman, which portrays the day in the life of a lobsterman and his son as they work along the coast of Maine.
IT
You won’t find Derry, Maine on any map, but you can visit it via a number of chilling tales courtesy of horror writer Stephen King, including his 1986 novel It, which follows a group of friends who try to kill a monster that terrorizes their town; a film by the same name was made in 2017.
WE HAVE ALWAYS LIVED IN THE CASTLE
Shirley Jackson’s novel follows Merricat Blackwood, who lives in isolation on her family’s Vermont estate with her sister Constance and their infirm Uncle Julian. When an estranged cousin arrives, the already uneasy state of the Blackwood home is thrown into disarray.
THE CIDER HOUSE RULES
This 1999 screen adaptation of a 1985 novel by John Irving was set in 1940s Maine and filmed in Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont (and Massachusetts, too). Featuring an all-star cast including Kathy Baker, Michael Caine, and Tobey Maguire, the film depicts the father-son-like relationship between an orphan (Maguire), and the orphanage’s doctor (Caine), who takes him under his wing.
THE SECRET HISTORY
In Donna Tartt’s 1992 novel, Richard leaves his working-class, California home behind in order to attend a liberal arts college in Vermont. Once there he falls in with a privileged group of classics students, but beneath the group’s veneer of charm and sophistication is a dark, violent secret.
ON GOLDEN POND
Big Squam and Little Squam lakes in central New Hampshire had starring roles in this 1981 film. So did the lakes’ loons that greeted lead actors Katharine Hepburn and Henry Fonda, who played an aging (and somewhat cranky) couple returning once more to a beloved family summer retreat. It was the last role played by Fonda, whose movie daughter was played by his actual daughter, Jane Fonda.
THE IRON GIANT
This charming animated film tells the story of Hogarth, a young boy who befriends a giant robot after it crashes in Maine. When a paranoid government agent tries to destroy the giant, Hogarth enlists help to save the gentle-hearted automaton.
THE HOTEL NEW HAMPSHIRE
This coming-of-age novel by John Irving, published in 1981, features a New Hampshire family whose parents met as teens while working together at a Maine summer resort. The book has a better reputation than the film adaptation that was released a few years later.
STRANGLEHOLD
This podcast series, produced by NPR, examines how New Hampshire outperforms its small stature on the nation’s presidential primary stage, where it looms large in influence and attention.
WHITE CHRISTMAS
This holiday classic follows a song and dance team and a pair of performing sisters as they travel to a Vermont inn where they’ve been booked to perform over Christmas. The inn, owned by their old army commander, is on the verge of failure, so they stage a nationally televised yuletide extravaganza in order to save it.
Chapter 2. TRAVEL SMARTKnow Before You Go
Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire have their share of regional character, color, and flavor—not to mention a few geographical and seasonal challenges. Here are some tips that will enrich your trip and ease your travels.
IT’S WICKED GOOD TO LEARN SOME LINGO.
To avoid seeming like a chowdah-head
(aka chowder head, aka idiot), brush up on some basic dialect. Want a big, long sandwich? Order a grinder, not a sub or a hero, and wash it down with a frappe or a tonic, not a milkshake or soda. At the hotel, grab the clickah
(clicker) to change the TV station. At the supermarket, grab a carriage to shop for picnic sundries. If people direct you to a rotary, they mean traffic circle. And, even if you’re traveling north toward, say, Bar Harbor, you’re headed Down East.
YOU CAN’T ALWAYS GET THEAH FROM HEAH.
The shortest distance between two points isn’t always a straight—or single—line. Finding the real Maine, Vermont, or New Hampshire means driving (and getting lost on) its scenic byways. And GPS and cell-phone service will be disrupted, especially up north, so pack road maps or an atlas. There are a few places where you won’t need a car, though. Cities have great public transit options to, within, and around them. You’ll have to take a ferry—few take cars—to access the numerous islands off Maine’s coast, but most are bike friendly so plan accordingly. In Acadia National Park, you’ll have to trade your car for hiking boots, a bike, or a carriage (an actual horse and buggy, not a shopping cart).
DON’T FORGET THE DRAMAMINE.
Elevations aren’t as dramatic as those out west, but car sickness is possible on drives through White Mountain National Forest, on the Kancamagus Scenic Byway, or even the North Woods’ Golden Roads. Roads ribbon up, down, and around—just as they do along rugged, often-precipitous stretches of Atlantic coast.
SMALL TOWNS RULE.
You might have to dig a little deeper to sightsee here, but it’s worth it. Most villages have a Colonial- or Revolutionary-era homestead or site, small museum or historical society, and time-honored tavern or country store. Photo-worthy commons (open spaces once used for grazing livestock and around which towns were built) are worth seeking out and can be found in many small towns, from Woodstock, Vermont, to Bethel, Maine.
EVEN THE BIG CITIES HERE ARE RELATIVELY SMALL.
Manchester, New Hampshire, the region’s largest city, has just about 112,658 people. The next biggest, Portland, Maine, has 66,218 people, followed by Burlington, Vermont, which has just over 42,545. Despite their small size, most cities have thriving cultural scenes; several are major university towns (Brunswick and Hanover) and/or are steeped in history (Portland). Regardless, you can allow less time for urban explorations and more time for losing yourself in the bucolic settings.
THE BEST FOODS ARE WHOLESOME, HEARTY BASICS.
Field- or fishing-boat-totable is the norm, with abundant local produce and seafood that includes lobster; quahogs or other clams; bay or sea scallops; and pollack, hake, haddock, or cod (the latter two might appear on local menus as scrod
). In Maine, lobster-roll meat is lightly dressed in mayonnaise; though you may also find it drizzled with melted butter. Chowder is creamy and may contain bacon.
Everywhere, though, maple syrup adorns shaved ice (or snow!) and ice cream as well as pancakes; breakfast home fries are griddled and seasoned just so; and craft beer and cider pair well with boiled dinners and Yankee pot roast. Be sure to try a Moxie, an energizing,
regionally unique tonic (aka soda).
IN THE LAND OF THE COUNTRY INN, IT’S BEST TO BOOK AHEAD.
Although there are abundant chain hotels and several large, notable Victorians—seaside and near the slopes—smaller inns, often historical and privately owned, are among the best lodgings. Loads of charm and lower room counts make booking ahead essential, especially during peak seasons, when there might also be a two-night minimum. And peak seasons
vary. Leaf-peeping season is roughly late September to mid-October in Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont. At the region’s ski areas, the season might be November through April or even May.
THE WATER IS COLD UP HERE.
Even in late August, ocean temperatures off Maine and New Hampshire only climb to the upper 50s or lower 60s—still limb-numbingly chilly. Wet suits (and water shoes for rockier shores) are musts for surfing and standup paddleboarding. Obviously, the farther north you go, the shorter the beach season, with some properties reducing their hours or shuttering entirely between Labor Day and Memorial Day or July Fourth. The lakes may be a bit warmer with water temps hovering around the 70s, but once the sun goes down it gets wicked chilly.
WHEN IT COMES TO PARKLAND, THE STATES HAVE IT.
Although much of New England is woodsy, the entire region has only one national park (Acadia) and just two national forests (Green Mountain and White Mountain). That said, there are plenty of opportunities to hike, canoe, kayak, mountain bike, camp, and otherwise embrace the outdoors in the plethora of park or recreation/wilderness areas overseen by each state.
SOME OF THE FLIES BITE.
First, it’s the black flies, whose bites leave red, itchy welts. May through June is the season, which is particularly notorious in Maine. Then, in July, it’s the deer flies. Summer also sees greenhead flies (aka saltmarsh greenheads) in some coastal areas. On hikes, use insect repellent and wear clothing that covers your arms and legs. And don’t forget to check for ticks. The disease they’re known to carry was named after a New England town: Lyme, Connecticut.
THE PEOPLE ARE WARM AND WELCOMING
The idea of the self-reliant, thrifty, and often stoic New England Yankee has taken on almost mythic proportions in American folklore, but in some parts of New England—especially in rural Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont—there still is some truth to this image, which shouldn’t come as a surprise. You need to be independent if you farm an isolated field, live in the middle of a vast forest, or work a fishing boat miles off the coast. As in any part of the country, there are stark differences between the city mice and the country mice of New England. Both, however, are usually well educated and fiercely proud of the region, its rugged beauty, and its contributions to the nation.
SPORTS IS A RELIGION
This is Sox and Pats country. New England fans follow Massachusetts’s sports teams as if they were their own. Boston is home to three of the region’s four major sports teams—Red Sox baseball, Bruins hockey, and Celtics basketball. The New England Patriots (football) play in the small suburb of Foxboro, about 30 miles southwest of Downtown Boston. The city is also home to the Boston Marathon, New England’s largest sporting event and the world’s oldest annual marathon.
KNOW THE DO’S AND DON’TS OF BUYING CANNABIS
If you’re age 21 or older you can purchase cannabis—in smoking and in edible forms—for recreational use in Maine and Vermont. Do buy only from a dispensary licensed to sell adult-use cannabis. Legally, you can only use cannabis on private property, not in public places, and especially not in hotel rooms.
Getting Here and Around
d Air
Most travelers visiting the area use a major gateway, such as Boston, Providence, Hartford, Manchester, Portland, or even Albany, and then rent a car to explore the region. Most destinations are no more than six hours apart by car, which is good because it’s costly and generally impractical to fly within Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire, unless you’re going to some of the more remote parts of Inland Maine.
AIRPORTS
The main gateway to New England is Boston’s Logan International Airport (BOS). New Hampshire’s Manchester Boston Regional Airport (MHT), Maine’s Portland International Jetport (PWM), and Vermont’s Burlington International Airport (BTV) are other major airports.
Other convenient airports are Albany International Airport (ALB) in Albany, New York, near Vermont, and Bangor International Airport (BGR) in Bangor, Maine.
FLIGHTS
Boston’s Logan Airport has direct flights arriving from all over North America and abroad. Some sample flying times to Boston are: 2½ hours from Chicago, 6½ hours from London, and 6 hours from Los Angeles. Times from other U.S. cities are similar, if slightly shorter, to Albany and Hartford, assuming you can find direct flights.
American, Delta, Frontier, JetBlue, Southwest, and United serve airports in Albany, Boston, Manchester, and Portland. Alaska, Allegiant, Boutique Air, Hawaiian, Spirit, and Sun Country fly into Boston. Cape Air, a regional carrier, serves various New England airports in Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont.
e Boat
A number of ferries, some seasonal and some passenger-only, operate along the coast. Maine State Ferry Service provides ferry service to the islands of Mantinicus, Vinalhaven, North Haven, Islesboro, Swans Island, and Frenchboro. You can bring your car on the ferries to Islesboro, Vinalhaven, North Haven, and Mantinicus.
The CAT is a seasonal car ferry that travels between Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, and Bar Harbor, Maine. The trip takes about 3½ hours.
Casco Bay Lines connects the city of Portland with the islands of Casco Bay.
j Bus
Buses are a practical way to get to a major entry-point in northern New England, but you can’t explore the smaller towns in any practical way through bus service.
Concord Coach buses connect Boston with several cities in New Hampshire and Maine; the company also operates a route between New York City and Portland. Dartmouth Coach runs buses from both Boston and New York City to Hanover and Lebanon, in New Hampshire’s Upper Valley. C&J buses (with Wi-Fi) serve Dover (near Durham) and Portsmouth, New Hampshire, and Ogunquit, Maine; C&J also provides service to New York City. Both Concord and C&J leave from Boston’s South Station, which is connected to the Amtrak rail station, and from Logan Airport.
Megabus also offers low fares, and its buses (with free Wi-Fi) serve New York City and many other East Coast cities. Both use Boston’s South Station; Megabus stops in Portland, Montpelier, and Burlington.
With extremely low fares, FlixBus buses equipped with Wi-Fi and electrical outlets connect Boston to several destinations in Vermont, as well as Portsmouth and Portland.
k Car
As public transportation options are limited in this area, a car is almost essential. Interstate 95 enters New England at the New York border, follows the Connecticut shoreline, and then heads north to Providence, Boston, and Portland before ending at the Canadian border in Calais, Maine.
CAR RENTAL
Major airports serving the region all have on-site car-rental agencies. A few train or bus stations have one or two car-rental agencies on-site, as well.
Rates at Boston’s Logan Airport begin at around $50 per day and $300 per week for an economy car with air-conditioning, automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage. The same car might go for around $60 per day and $175 per week at a smaller airport. These rates do not include state tax on car rentals, which varies depending on the airport but generally runs 12%–15%. It usually costs less to rent a car away from an airport, but be sure to consider how easy or difficult it may be to get to that off-airport location with luggage.
Most agencies won’t rent to drivers under the age of 21, and several major agencies won’t rent to anyone under 25 or over the age of 75. When picking up a rental car, non-U.S. residents need a voucher for any prepaid reservation made in their home country, a passport, a driver’s license, and a travel policy that covers each driver. Logan Airport is spread out and usually congested; if returning a rental vehicle there, allow plenty of time to do so before heading to your flight.
GASOLINE
Gas stations are easy to find throughout the region, but prices vary from station to station. The majority have self-serve pumps that accept credit or debit cards.
PARKING
Finding street parking in Portland, Maine, or any resort or seaside town, can be a pain in the summer. Park in a garage or lot if it’s an option. Always pay attention to signs: some streets or lots may be reserved for residents only.
ROAD CONDITIONS
Major state and U.S. routes are generally well maintained, with snowplows at the ready during the winter to salt and plow. Secondary state routes and rural roads can be a mixed bag; Route 1, for example, is well maintained; but traffic is stop-and-go and can get tied up in even the smallest coastal towns.
ROADSIDE EMERGENCIES
Call P911