DNEPR M72 Manual English
DNEPR M72 Manual English
DNEPR M72 Manual English
City of
Irbit 1954
In order to prevent this, the carburetors are lead-sealed and only after 1000 km
are they to be broken.
Over the distance of lead-sealing, times are to be set up in the presence of the
responsible motor vehicle officer.
If one does not understand the construction of the motorcycle and does not care
about the adjustment schedules, one cannot count on troublefree operation. In
this document of maintenance and operation are the procedures for the
motorcycle M-72, and there is also a short description of the construction of the
mechanisms of the motorcycle.
The care of the motorcycle, adjustment and the lubrication are systematically
accomplished, according to the data given in this instruction. If the driver obeys
this instruction exactly, it reaches that the motorcycle runs for a long time and
troublefree. The motorcycle M - 72 is a complicated machine, which can have a
very long life span in the hands of an attentive driver.
In order to learn to control the machine perfectly and use their knowledge
completely, one must intimately know its construction, function and adjustment.
At the motorcycle there are no "little things" and unimportant parts. Without an
overriding reason one is not to take a motorcycle apart or its assemblies. The
correct interaction of the parts can be disturb with an unnecessary dismantling
and reassembly of machine parts, causing its premature wear and even
breakage.
The engine
engine type: Four Cycle
number of cylinders: two
layer of the cylinders: horizontal in the angle of 180 degrees
of drilling: 78 mm
stroke: 78 mm
capacity: 746 ccm
compression: 5.5 ±0,2
maximum output with 4450 4800 U/min at least 22 HP
of cooling: Air cooling valve situation: down lubrication system: combined: Gear
wheel pump and spraying system
contents of the oil tank: 2 l.
Power transmission
Clutch: Dry two-disk friction clutch
transmission: Two-speed four-stage transmission
gear shift: Foot and gearshift lever
quantity of oil in the transmission: 0.8 l
gear reductions:
1st Gear: 3,6
2nd Gear: 2,28
3rd Gear: 1,7
4th Gear: 1.3
transmission on rear wheel: by cardan shaft
reduction in the rear-wheel drive: 4.62
quantity of oil in the final drive: 0.175 l
entire reduction ratio:
1st Gear: 16,65
2nd Gear: 10,55
3rd Gear: 7,85
4th Gear: 6,01.
The starter pedal lies on the left side of the motorcycle. The starting occurs
through pressing down the pedal with your foot. The pedal returns by a feather
spring to this starting position.
The coupling lever (clutch) 4 is on the left side of the driver. While drawing the
lever the clutch is disengaged and the crankshaft of the engine is separated from
the drivetrain. The transmission must be in neutral while starting.
The rotary clutch (friction control) of the throttle sleeve 5 (hand throttle) lies on
the right side of the driver. With rotation of the throttle toward you the engine
increases RPM. Rotate away and the engine RPM decreases. The way of the
throttle cable is limited with a new, not yet well-worn wheel. If you experience an
overly difficult throttle, inspect, or it may break the cable.
The ignition setting lever 10 is on the left side of the steering wheel. In the case
of a turn of the lever to the driver the circuit breaker disk moves after the turning
side of the cam. This position corresponds to the spark advance. In the case of a
turn of the lever away from the driver the circuit breaker disk turns after that the
reverse direction of rotation of the cam arranged side. This position corresponds
to the spark retarding.
The position of the ignition setting lever is to correspond to the function of the
engine. When starting with few revolutions of the engine and likewise with
overloading, if the engine begins to knock, the ignition setting lever must be set
to spark advance. With an increase of the number of revolutions one must
increase the ignition folding or sliding bevel square.
The signal button 12 is on the left side of the steering wheel on the housing of the
ignition setting lever.
The steering damper 13 serves the desired driving direction for the weakening of
lateral impacts of the motorcycle and for the observance with different road
conditions. Depending upon the tightness of the steering damper unwanted turns
of the fork are prevented and the steering of the motorcycle is facilitated. During
a travel with high speed or on bad roads one must tighten the screw of the
steering damper.
The speedometer 14 is built into the headlight and has an odometer and a
speedometer. During the engagement of the headlight the dial of the
speedometer is lit up.
The careful examination of the machine before driving is the absolute condition
for the troublefree operation of the motorcycle and for the avoidance of incidents
on the road. Before travelling one must make an inspection of the motorcycle, in
order to make sure it is in roadworthy condition. Furthermore one must test the
presence and the firmness of all pins and connections. With special attention one
has on the firm screw connection of the nuts/bolts on the axle of the rear wheel,
the engine, the sidecar, to inspect the saddle and the steering wheel. One must
examine also the effectiveness of the brakes.
Furthermore one must check whether the tank is full and must in the case of
neede fuel - refuel. While refuelling embarrassing cleanliness is to be considered,
since dirt, threads or fibers, which arrived with the gasoline into the tank the
passage openings at the gasoline petcock clog and on the way the cause for an
involuntary fuel starvation. In order to avoid this, one must pour the gasoline by a
filter in the tank or by a funnel with a filter. In strong rain or snow it is advisable to
make the refuelling of the motorcycle at a protected place. While refuelling
PLEASE DO NOT SMOKE. Gasoline may not also overfilled. Furthermore one
must check whether in the crank case sufficient oil is present. It is to reach up to
the highest mark of the dipstick, not exceeding these however. Finally also the
tire pressure is to be examined and, if it is necessary, the tires inflated.
After completion of the inspection and refuelling one can start the engine.
Fig 4
The Fuel Petcock
1. Housing, 2. Slidegate valve, 3. Hand lever, 4. Bowl, 5. Filter cup, 6. Bowl Washer, 7. Filter
screen, 8. Filter feather/spring, 9. Main gasoline line, 10. Reserve gasoline line, 11. Sealing disk
of the slidegate valve, 12. Sealing disk of the gasoline housing, 13. Body
3. With cold engine put the ignition set lever on late ignition (the lever on the
handlebar), open the throttle slightly, press the carburetor tickler to overfill the
bowl, close the air flap and step several times on the starter to suck in the gas
mixture in the cylinders.
5. Sharply, but not too forcefully, the kick starter is to be pressed. After starting,
the engine must warm up. This is necessary, because the oil must be warmed
to properly lubricate, cold oil lubricates poorly. The engine must warm up with a
middle number of revolutions, one may never equal full power give. If the engine
is warm, one can open the choke.
Driving rules
When starting one must disengage the clutch completely and switch to 1st gear,
by pressing with the foot on the front pedal of the foot shift lever. One turns the
hand throttle lever to increase the number of revolutions of the engine and
engages 1st gear at the same time evenly. The motorcycle moves on that slowly
from the starting position. In no case one may engage quickly, since here the
power transmission is overloaded and the engine stops. One must also not
disengage the clutch at high RPM, however the number of revolutions must be
so large that the engine does not stop when engaging the clutch. If the
motorcycle in 1st gear reaches a speed of 10 to 15 km, one must on the 2nd gear.
For this one, if one disengaged and took gas away to press fast with the left foot
on the rear pedal of the foot shift lever has to in-couple then evenly again and
give somewhat more gases.
After one reaches a speed of 20 to 30 km, one switches to the same way the 3rd.
gear and at a speed of 35 to 40 km the 4th. gear. Afterwards the speed is
adjusted by the slide of the carburetors, i.e. by a turn of the throttle. Driving into
3rd and 4th gear with a smaller than the indicated speed is not permitted,
because here the engine lugs, with an overloading force, unevenly and jerkily.
To start one may only in the 1st gear. With small driving speed and during travels
in the city one must use 3rd. and even the 2nd gear. Use gears and hold
themselves below to those speeds indicated.
One uses the clutch only when starting and when switching the gears. Coupling
is to take place calmly and evenly. Do not disengage the clutch slightly in order to
overcome an upward gradient and to increase the number of revolutions of the
engine and to let the clutch slip. In urban traffic conditions, where the driving
speed is often to be changed, one must switch and with gas, but do not adjust
speed by slipping of the clutch. Slipping the clutch entails a fast wear of the
clutch disks.
When braking one must disengage and step on the brake simultaneously. One
must brake carefully, because the possibility of hurling and tilting the motorcycle
is very large with sharp braking. Sharp braking is particularly dangerous in the
winter and on a wet road.
During the travel on a motorcycle also the ignition advance must be increased at
the same time with the increase of the number of revolutions of the engine, since
one cannot achieve otherwise the full power of the engine. One must make note
however of the fact that during too much spark advance the power of the engine
is reduced. If the spark advance is too advanced, then bright metallic ringing
sounds (pinging) with an increase of the load or sudden opening of the throttle
valve. In this case one must set the ignition lever to ignition retard.
Too much ignition retard causes an overheating of the engine except a power
loss also. In order to stop the ignition correctly, each driver must study and know
the motorcycle engine exactly.
During a travel on an upward gradient one must plan ahead and adjust the speed
of the machine in such a way that inevitable holding is avoided. If the upward
gradient is long, then one must drive the wheel out before that the whole upward
gradient or the largest part in 4th. gear is taken.
With steep departures in time 2nd or 1st gear is to be switched on and be braked
with the engine.
Short distances of dry, loose sand one is in 2nd or 1st gear with enough speed to
drive through and try to keep the same number of revolutions.
One must be reminded of the fact that a longer travel into the 1st and 2nd gear
can cause an overheating of the engine. Therefore you must occasionally stop, in
order to assist the engine cooling.
For the overcoming of distances with thick, tough dirt one must drive likewise as
with loose sand. If under the fenders much dirt has accumulated, the rotation of
the wheels becomes difficult, then one must continue and remove the dirt with
the help of an article (lever, assembly lever, stick).
One must drive over furrows and holes slowly and brake beforehand while
driving over them. One crosses deep ditches diagonally, at an angle, at slow
speed in 1st gear. When driving out of the ditch, give it gas.
If one continues on the way, one is to let the motorcycle stand not on the road,
but on the side. In order to avoid a running out of the gasoline, the gasoline
petcock is to be closed when switching the engine off. In order to prevent a
draining of the battery, remove the ignition key.
Each day when shutting down the machine, you must make a daily inspection
It is particularly important to make certain that there are no oil and battery acid
leaks.
1 10 km/hr 15 km/hr
2 20 km/hr 35 km/hr
3 35 km/hr 50 km/hr
4 50 km/hr 70 km/hr
These speeds refer to the travel of a motorcycle with sidecar on even road. At
the carburetors automatic controllers are attached, which must be shortened
after first 1000 km and be removed completely after 2000 km. One is not to
completely rely however on the automatic controllers and to turn the limit the
speed. The best breaking in method, which ensures the fastest and most correct
flow of the rubbing parts, is an alternating driving acceleration up to the
maximally permissible speed on short distances (500 m) and a following
decelerating run with throttle back. After first 2000 km one is not to turn into
during a longer travel yet on full power. One can increase to the maximum
speed gradually, if one approaches 3000 km.
Gear Km/hr
1 20
2 45
3 65
4 95
A new motorcycle requires increased attention during the time of breaking in, if
the rubbing parts run in. In this period one may drive the machine to overloads
and not on difficult ways.
One may not let the engine run with a high number of revolutions and overheat.
It is necessary to occasionally adjust the cylinder head pins tight for better
seating of the seals. During breaking in much attention must be paid to
lubricating the engine.
After first 500 km the used up oil is emptied, the oil pan is washed and fresh oil
up to the necessary height is again filled up.
Up to the completion of breaking in one must change the oil also at 1000 km.
At the conclusion of breaking in (after 2000 km) the oil in the engine, in the
transmission and in the rear transmission must be changed.
The sorts of the oils and quantities which can be used are indicated in the
Lubrications Table (page 67).
The Motor
The engine belongs to the construction and the technical values after to the
motorcycle high speed engines for route machines, since regardless of the
existing lateral valves the achievement and number of revolutions for engines of
this type are rather high.
1. Housing, 2. Crank cheek, 3. Crankpin, 4. Piston rod, 5. Bearing of the lower piston rod
head, 6. Piston, 7. Gudgeon pin, 8. Piston rings, 9. Cylinder, 10. Cylinder head, 11.
Tappet, 12. Valve, 13. Valve spring, 14. Oil pan, 15. Screw connection of the oil filler neck,
16. Drain screw connection. 17. Filter, 18. Ventilation pipe at the oil filler neck
The lubrication system of the engine has a combined pressure and spraying
lubrication system. A total lubrication pattern of the engine is fig. 6. The oil
pan pressed from a steel sheet forms the main oil reservoir. The oil is carried
from the oil pan by means of a gear pump by the mesh filter 18.
The oil pump is propelled by the cam shaft by a pair spiral toothed gears.
The oil pump has only one compression phase, which consists of a pair in the
pump housing of attached gear wheels.
The wheels press the oil into the main line 22. From the main line the oil runs
under pressure to four places: to 2 oil cups 12 by the channels 23 and 25 to
the left engine cylinder by the channel 5 and to the teeth of the drive wheel of
the crankshaft by the connecting piece 29.
The oil, which runs out out of the connecting piece, arrives at the gears of the
crankshaft and lubricates the gear teeth of the cam shaft and the generator.
The surplus oil runs off and flows back into the oil pan of the housing.
Into the oil cups the oil comes from the slots, which are in the seats of the
crankshaft ball bearings.
From the oil cups the oil runs into the holes of the crankpins and from there,
under the effect of the centrifugal energy, by the openings to the ball bearings
of the large piston rod heads.
The surplus oil runs out out of the oil cups and connecting rod bearings and
hurled around inside the housing.
The intensive pressure of the oil and the high temperature promote the design
of a fine oil mist in the housing, whereby the work surfaces of the cylinders,
the gudgeon pins, the sockets of the small piston rod heads, the cams, the
crankshaft ball bearings, which are lubricated tappet guides and the valves.
In order to ensure a better lubricating of the camshaft, there are special oiling
holes 6, in which a part of the around-hurled oil collects itself in the housing.
The hurled oil arrives only in insufficient measure to the upper wall (in driving
direction) link cylinder, since this place is not attainable for oil droplets, which
are away-torn by the crankshaft turning in the clockwise direction.
The oil mist does not ensure however the necessary lubrication.
Therefore the channel 5 is led, by that the oil to an enular groove at the
cylinder flange runs and from there by three openings to the upper wall of the
left cylinder to the left cylinder.
In order to prevent a squeezing out of oil by the lubricators and seals for the
moment the mutual approximation of the pistons in both cylinders and also, in
order to prevent an unnecessary drop on the air pressure in the housing, a
tube end 6 is mounted at the end of the cam shaft (fig. 10).
During the mutual approximation of the pistons the opening in the tube end
coincides with the opening of the ventilation pipe 18 (fig. 5), and thereby the
housing is connected with outside air.
During the moving away of the pistons the tube end terminates the
connection of the housing with outside air, it develops a negative pressure,
and the oil mist is sucked off by the distribution gears into the housing.
Vibrating the oil prevents and takes the filter attached in the lower part of the
housing while driving the foam away.
The oil is cast in into the crankshaft housing through the filling hole locked by
the left side by with a screw connection 15 (fig. 5).
As a check of the oil level a dipstick with two marks is attached at the screw
connection of the filling hole.
The oil level is to go up to the upper mark, not exceed these and lower itself
in no case under the lower mark.
While checking the oil, one is not to screw in the dipstick. Used up oil is
removed by the orifice in the oil pan bottom, locked with the screw connection
16 (fig. 5). With this lubrication system one must not in the first few minutes
of operation rev the engine. Toward the lubrication one must direct the most
serious attention, because short suspending or an insufficient lubrication can
lead to heavy accidents. Signs of a insufficient lubrication are those
performance and the occurrence of knocking in the engine.
The fuel is supplied to the right and the left carburetor from the fuel tank by a
petcock and fuel piping.
Both carburetors have a common air cleaner (fig. 7), which is installed at the
transmission case, and a coupled throttle slidegate valve.
The air cleaner is provided with a choke, which facilitates a starting and a
warming up of the engine in cold weather.
The main cause of the wear of cylinders, pistons piston rings and all other
rubbing parts of the engine are dust and sand, which arrive by the carburetors
into the engine.
The life span of the engine depends on the perfect condition of the air. The air
purification process of the dust takes place in two stages.
Air occurring under the filter cover is thrown under the effect one at the cover of
fastened reflector on the mirrors the oil pan.
It steps under sharp change of direction into the neck of the air cleaner, which
has a metal wire screen.
Larger dust particles, which penetrate together with air, get into the surface of the
oil and into the panof the air cleaner
Smaller dust particles, which are drug along by the air flow, remain putting in the
oiled metal wire filling of the filter neck.
From the filter neck cleaned air arrives by the air lines at the carburetors. In the
housing of the air cleaner a disk is attached, which serves as gasket.
Note:
1. The air cleaner will use the same oil as the engine. One can take used
engine oil for the air cleaner, only it must be filtered before.
2. If one received the motorcycle from the manufacturing firm, one needs to
examine only the presence of oil in the air cleaner.
If the motorcycle is in heavy use, one must control daily the oil level in the oil pan
and the degrees of the contamination.
It is advisable to make the following periodic washing of the air cleaner and an oil
change:
If the motorcycle on particularly dusty ways is driven, the air cleaner must,
without taking apart it, all 150 - 200 km to be washed, and under normal
conditions every 500 km.
Washing the air cleaner takes place in a container with petroleum or gasoline via
immersing and removing via strong vibrating for careful cleaning of the wire filling
from dust.
Complete taking of the air cleaner apart with the washing of the wire filling is
necessary every 2000 km.
Taking the air cleaner apart and washing the wire filling happen in the following
way:
1. The air cleaner is removed from the transmission case, after one loosened the
lock screw before.
2. The upper cover of the air cleaner is removed.
3. The dirty oil is discharged.
4. The oil absorber disk is removed, after the lock washer is taken out before.
5. The protecting filter and then the filling packages are taken out in sequence.
For easier starting of the engine with a contact oil air cleaner a choke is built into
the air lines of the carburetors.
With fully opened flap the lever is in extreme down position, with closed flap in
outermost forward position. (the lever is above.) One may use the choke only
for starting the cold engine.
In addition the gasoline petcock (fig. 4) has a mesh filter and a sieve 4, at the
carburetor connecting pieces is small metal filters for the filtration of the fuel.
It is recommended to depart at 1000 km the dirt set off in the sieve to wash and
clean the fuel filters at the gasoline cock and at the carburetors, the carburetors
with gasoline to wash and the nozzles and channels to blow through.
1. Carburetor Housing, 2. Throttle Slide, 3. Float frame cover, 4. Float Needle 5. Tickler, 6.
Float, 7. Connecting piece, 8. Filter screen, 9. Main jet, 10. Atomizer, 11. Air duct of the
atomizer, 12. Needle of the Slide, 13. Jet, 14. Fuel channel of the Jet, 15. Atomizer
opening of the no-load operation nozzle, l6. air duct of the no-load operation nozzle, 17.
Filter of the auxiliary air duct of the jet, 18. Idle Mixture Adjustment, 19. Slide stop screw
(idle), 20. Run automatic controller of the slide, 21. Lock screw of the no-load operation
nozzle, 22. Attachment split pin of the needle of the slides, 23. Feather/spring, 24. Frame
cover, 25. Union nut, 26. Conclusion of the cable covering, 27. Conclusion lock nut
Fig 9
Valve Adjustment
1. Valve, 2. Valve spring, 3. Valve disk, 4. Ventilkeil, 5. Tappet, 6. Tappet guide, 7.
Adjusting screw, 8. Lock nut, 9. Cover of the valve housing, 10. Seal, 11. Screw
The adjustment needle is connected with the slide by the split pin 22, which
goes crosswise through the openings in the throttle slidegate valve housing
and in the top of the needle. The needle four and the slidehouse two has
such openings, whereby the distance between the latters is one and a half
times larger than the distance between the openings in the needle.
Fig 10
Camshaft
Cam shaft, 2. Wheel of the crankshaft, 3. Wheel of the cam shaft, 4. Wheel of the
generator, 5. Ignition tap, 6. Channel of the filler neck
Then one continues to turn the crankshaft of the engine up to the moment, if
the exhaust valve begins to lift oneself and the play of the intake valve
adjusts. For the adjustment of the play one must loosen the lock nut 8 to
something and turn the pin 7 of the tappet in or other direction,
The clutch
The construction of the clutch of the motorcycle M -- 72 is very simple. The
correct use of the clutch increases its life span substantially.
Fig 11
Attitude of the clutch rope and the rear wheel brake
Adjusting screw for the rear wheel brake rope, 2. Adjusting screw for the clutch rope
The transmission
The care of the transmission (fig. 12) is limited to the punctual refill and/or
changes of the oil (see chapter "lubricating of the motorcycle"). The oil level
is to go up to the lower thread of the oil filler screw connection. With dividing
the transmission or during the working the necessity can occur to adjust the
switch mechanism for the even work of foot and hand clutch. The adjusting
screws must stand in such a way that the determination recesses of the
segment in all courses fit the ball of the clamp. An uneven work of the foot
and hand clutch is determined in the following way:
l. During the transition from a small to a larger gear, D h. during a raising of
the front pedal of the foot shift lever upward up to the notice, the quadrant
shifts insufficiently and the determination recess of the segment comes not up
to the determination ball. One can recognize this easily, if the hand at the
gearshift lever is hard. With a pedal of the shifter lifted up to the notice the
hand lever moves thereafter the position of the clutch lever is somewhat
forward and only held. In the available case one must loosen the lock nut and
unscrew the lower adjusting screw of the shift mechanism accordingly.
2. During the transition of a small gear to a larger the quadrant is shifted too
much and the determination recess passes the determination ball. In this
case one must loosen the lock nut and tighten the lower adjusting screw of
the gear lever accordingly.
3. During the transition of a large gear to a smaller, D h. when pressing the
front pedal of the pedal down up to the notice the quadrant does not shift
sufficient and the determination recess of the segment arrived not up to the
determination ball. In this case it is necessary to loosen the lock nut and
accordingly the upper adjusting screw of the gear lever loosely screws on.
Fig 13
Attitude of the transmission
In no case one is to take the power transmission mechanism apart (fig. 14)
without compelling necessity if for any reason a dismantling took place, then it
is extremely important when building up to use the same adjustment disks
which were installed by the factory. By these disks the play between the
wheel teeth adjusted after tightening all nuts/boltd to have the wheels easily
with the hand to be moveable without wedge and seize. One must be able to
feel air between the wheel teeth with the rotation of the drive shaft with locked
hub of the propelled gear wheel with the hand. If with the flow of the parts air
becomes larger, then one must add an adjustment disk of appropriate
strength.
The oil level in the housing of the power transmission is to go up to the lower
threads of the oil filler screw connection.
For the lubricating of the universal joint one must push the rubber seal ring 18
for the center of the cardan shaft and unscrew with a key the Kardan. Here
one may not forget that the cap has a left-hand thread and one must turn in
the clockwise direction.
Fig 14
Cutaway of the Kardan and Final Drive M – 72
Brake lever, 2. Brake tap, 3. Cover of the lubricator, 4. Lubricator, 5. Housing, 6. Needle
bearing, 7th double-row ball bearing, 8. Keilbolzen, 9. Drive wheel, 10. Adjusting screw, 11.
Sealing disk, 12. Bearing nut, 13. Lubricator, 14. Kardangabel, 15. Crosshead, 16. Cardan
shaft, 17. Disk of the cardan shaft, 18. Rubber gasket, 19. Kardanmantel, 20. Locking ring,
21. Housing socket, 22. and 23. Bushes of the Nebenlagers, 24. Adjustment disk, 25th
propelled wheel, 26. Wheel hub, 27. Ball bearing, 28. Adjustment disk, 29. Clamping
chuck, 30. Frame cover, 31. Rear wheel suspension, 32. Axle of the rear wheel.
Fig 15
The vordergabel
Tightening nut, 2. Feather/spring, 3. Federrohr of the fork, 4. Guide bush of the shock
absorber seaweeds, 5. Shock absorber seals, 6. Shock absorber piston, 7. End piece of the
fork feather/spring, 8. Pipe of the shock absorber housing, 9. Discharge screw
In the fork pipes is hydraulic (oil more) steering damper inserted, which is
intended to the improvement of the absorption with strong impacts and for the
admission of the oscillations of the fork. The upper ends shock absorber
seals of the 5 are fastened in the tightening nuts l, while at the lower rod ends
guidance 10 with slots are mounted. Between the guidance and the banking
pins steel check valves or piston 6 are inserted. The bars are inserted into
pipes, which are fastened in the feather/spring end pieces by nuts/bolts 18.
In the top of the pipes the sockets 4 are fastened on lock rings, which serve
for the adjustment of the bars and for the quantity of the oil, which goes
through by the gap between socket and bar. In the lower part of the pipes are
openings, by which the oil flows through.
In this way the hydraulic shock absorber weakens not only the impacts taken
up by the fork, but stops also a loss of control of the motrocycle, if it slips from
an unevenness of the way. The shock absorber prevents also a jumping of
the motorcycle and the emergence of longitudinal oscillations of the
motrocycle.
Fig 17
The rear wheel suspension
End pieces of the rear fork, 2. Feather/spring, 3, spring assembly, 4. Support of the right
suspension, 5. Guide bush, 6. Bar, 7. Muffler
Fig 18
The rear wheel suspension (cutaway)
End pieces of the rear fork, 2. Feather/spring, 3. Spring assembly, 4. Support of the right
suspension, 5. Guide bush, 6. Bar, 7. Buffer, 8. Lockbolt of the bar, 9. Absorber, 10.
Stuffing box
The support 4 of the right suspension is with the frame cover of the power
transmission from a piece. Therefore the power transmission can be
removed if necessary only together with the right suspension.
The brakes are very important main parts of the motorcycle. Both brakes,
both the hand and the foot brake, are block brakes. There is aluminum
cheeks also on them fastened, replaceable friction washers.
The parking brake cable wears in heavy use gradually, and the friction types
of both the hand and the foot brake shoes wear themselves out. Therefore
the play of the hand brake handle and the foot brake pedal becomes larger,
and the work of the brakes worsens gradually.
For adjustment the emergency brake is intended at the brake disk a special
screw (fig. 19). When unscrewing this screw the dead play of the hand brake
handle is reduced. The emergency brake should be so adjusted the fact that
braking with a turn of the lever around 5 -- begins 10 mm. The attitude of the
foot brake takes place with the help of the wing nut l (fig. 11), which is at the
end of the brake play.
The foot brake must be so adjusted the fact that braking when pressing the
foot brake pedal down around 10 -- begins 15 mm. A slight play is absolutely
necessary with the hand brake handle and with the foot brake pedal, since
otherwise the brake drums heat up continuously and excessively wear
themselves out as the friction increases at the brake shoes. If these brake
linings in the driving gather oil and do not ensure no the necessary braking
action, then one must wash and dry them carefully with gasoline. With long
departures the wheel must be braked alternating with the hand and with the
foot brake, in order to prevent an overheating of the brakes. With steep
departures one must brake also with the engine, by switching a low gear.
One must brake softly and increase only gradually the pressure on levers and
pedal. One obtains the best braking action, if the wheels still turn. Therefore
one may not block the wheels when braking.
Fig. 20
removing the front wheel
1. Axle, 2. Key, 3. Cable, 4. Adjusting screw, 5. Hole of the adjusting screw, 6. Lever of
the brake cam, 7. Finger of the brake lever, 8. Cover of the brake drum, 9. wear indicator
1 insert into the axle a lever (left-hand thread), and in a clockwise direction
unscrew and the wheel as well as remove the brake. Using the front wheel
takes place in reverse order, whereby it is to be made sure that the wear
indicator 9 at the brake cover goes in into the groove at the right fork
feather/spring.
Before final screwing of the tension bolt onto the lower end of the left fork
feather/spring one must press strongly on the steering wheel and up-push the
front part of the motorcycle several times on the soil. If the wheel without the
brake cover is to be removed, the work 2, 3 and 4 needs not to be made.
For removing a rear wheel (fig. 21) the following is necessary: l. The wheel jack
up. 2. The pins of the supports of the rear shield remove and lift the hinged part
up of the shield. 3. The nut/washer 5 of the axle of the rear wheel remove and
together with the disk remove. 4. The nut/washer 2 of the tension bolt of the left
support of the rear suspension remove and the rear wheel axle out 3 with the
help of a lever. 5. The rear wheel of the framework take out. Assembling the
wheel is to be made in reverse order, whereby one must turn these continuously
when tightening the axle, in order to prevent a seizing. Before one bolts the
tension bolt on, one must up-push the rear part of the motorcycle several times
on the soil. When taking apart the parts may not become dirty, and before the
assembly they must be wiped off and greased carefully.
The care of the tires is limited to daily control of the air pressure the hoses (see
chapter "technical data"). Damaged places of the bearing surface must be
repaired by vulcanization after the return to the garage. The rear tire runs under
less favourable conditions. In order to ensure an even wear of all tires, one must
change all 2000 km the wheels, i.e. the rear wheel against the front wheel, the
sidecar wheel against the spare wheel and the spare wheel against the rear
wheel.
If between the valve and the hose air comes out, one must seat the valve rim
nut/washer.
Tire assembly
the assembly of tires must be made in the following order:
1. It is to be checked whether out of the tire all foreign particles are removed,
which can have caused or cause a damage of the hose.
2. If during removing the tire also the rim liner was removed, then one must
insert it when assembling again. The hole in the liner must fit exactly on the hole
in the rim. The rim volume is to cover all heads of the spokes.
3. As soon as one brought a part of the tire bead into the rim, one must draw the
whole bulge up with the help of the assembly levers on the rim.
4. The inner surface of the tire is to be covered with talcum powder to insert the
valve into the rim hole to screw on and in such a way insert the one little inflated
hose into the tire the nut/washer 2 to 3 courses that it does not have anywhere a
fold.
5. Before one draws the other bulge up of the cover, is the valve, if those is well
into the low bed of the rim brought bulge here to imprint up to the rim nut/washer.
6. To be held the other bulge of the tire is the cover with the feet from the valve
facing the side to be drawn up and in this situation.
7. The bulge of the tire is arranged with the hands in the rim, by after-seizing
gradually ever further all around.
8. If about 2/3 the bulge are drawn up, on the cover it is pressed in such a way
that this part slips into the low bed of the rim and with assembly levers then
retrieved the remaining bulge.
9. The valve is now pushed back completely, the hose is inflated and the tire is
so for a long time all around knocked off with a hammer, until it sits evenly on the
whole rim.
10. The rim nut/washer of the valve is inflated firmly tightened, the hose up to
the prescribed tire pressure, the valve insert is screwed in and the valve flap is
put on. If the tire sits correctly in the low bed of the rim, one can implement the
whole work with two assembly levers. By too much force one can damage the
cover and the wire rope in the bulge.
Fig 22
Sidecar Attachment
1. front tie bar 2. middle tie bar, 3. Front joint, 4. Rear joint
Sidecar with torsion suspension are characterised by a soft ride of the wheel
and by larger longevity. Into these side cars into the rear transverse pipe of
the framework a torque shaft with a kleinschlitzigen connection is built,
Fig 23
Pliers hinge of the sidecar attachment
1. Pliers, 2nd hinged screw connection, the motorcycle also with
3. Nut/mother dare
Fig 24
Sketch for adjustment
at the internal end of the crossbar into an immovable slot socket goes and from
the outside side by a supporting socket passes through. On the stepping out
slots of the wave a support is put on, which is tightened by clamps. At the
opposite end of the support the console axle of the wheel is mounted. During
this construction the fitted with springs wheel, if it follows the unevenness of the
road, in the vertical level will swing. With an increase of the load the torque shaft
pulls and the wheel together lifts oneself to the body. In the case of a decrease
of the load the wave frees itself due to its elasticity, and the wheel lowers itself.
The permissible size of the deviation of the wheel levels is 10 mm on the length
of the wheel base. With measuring one must set the dipstick as closely as
possible on the point of contact of thehub (fig. 24).
The lateral angle of inclination of the motorcycle axle to the vertical level can
amount to to 2°. When the assembling of the sidecar all joints must be greased.
During the attitude of the deviation of the wheel levels one must loosen the
tension bolts, which hold the bent lever, to something. By pushing in and pulling
out of the framework cross beam one finds the necessary deviation of the wheel
levels and controls her by two straight wood slats (or strings), which 90 -- 100
mm far away from the ground on which the wheels sit. One gets the necessary
lateral angle of inclination by an extension or a reduction of the upper tie bars
which are adjustable in the length.
One checks the correct assembly of the sidecar by a travel for even road.
The generator is the source of supply for all power and serves also for the
loading of the battery while driving. The generator becomes of the cam shaft
with the reduction ratio l: 3 in turn set. The generator wave turns thus l 1/2 time
faster than the crankshaft.
Without load the generator develops a tension of 6.5 V, which is sufficient over
the relay for the connection to the entire net, at a number of revolutions of the
anchor of no more than 1350 U/min. During the nominal load of 7 ampere the
generator gives a tension of 6.5 V at a number of revolutions of the anchor of
2000 U/min.
From these data it is evident that immediately after starting the engine, if this
reaches the work number of revolutions, which produces generator river, which is
sufficient for the supply of the power consumers, and that she switches herself
on into the net.
The relay automatic controller is regulated of the manufacturing firm and requires
no care. The factory pre-set to hurt or the relay automatic controller open, is
strictly forbidden. The housing is lead-sealed, and if the plombe is removed, with
a defect no complaints are recognized by the factory.
When the assembling of the relay automatic controller at the motorcycle one
must make certain that he has a reliable connection with the mass. For this the
attaching pin of the relay automatic controller a special metal panel is under one.
This panel may not be damaged when the assembling of the relay automatic
controller. With the relay automatic controller RR -- 31 is the mass the apparatus
housing, which is connected with the mass of the motorcycle by the fixing bolts of
the relay automatic controller. In addition a special clamp is as safe contact on
the right apparatus side.
The wheel of the generator is fastened on the armature shaft with the help of a
laengskeils and supports themselves with its edge by the internal race of the ball
bearing. When the assembling of the Rades one must bring it firmly to to the
camp. With a strammen seat of the Rades on the wave one must remove the
quill 2 (fig. 27), place the generator wave (from the side of the collector ago) on
any support and watch out the wheel with an easy hammer blow.
Periodically, all 500 km, one must control the generator attachment at the
crankshaft housing and the attachment of the lines at the clamps. If that band
stretched, one must pull it tight. If required one must to be regulated air above
indicated in the gear wheels as.
Fig 27
The generator G -- 11 A
1. Wheel, 2. Quill, 3. Schutzband, 4. Buerstenfeder, 5. Brush, 6. Collector
All 3000 to 5000 km one must examine the condition of the brushes and the
collector. For this one must remove the schutzband 3, raise and check the
buerstenfeder whether the brushes shift into the holding easily and whether
they are not too much worn out.
In order to get when dividing and building the generator and other
apparatuses of the electrical equipment up no short-circuit, one must
separate above all the battery from the mass. If while driving because of any
defects the indicator light goes out only with high routes of the engine or goes
out not completely, then it is necessary as a check of the intact condition of
the generator and the relay automatic controller to proceed in the following
way:
2. To switch on and the engine start the lines of the clamps + and -- from the
generator are to be removed, + the clamp is by any leader on mass to be
put, between -- clamp and the mass a transportable 6-Volt-Lampe. If the
lamp is on, then this means that the generator is correct. One must
remember that one may not let the engine run with such a control with
high routes, since otherwise, if the generator is correct, the lamp burns
through inevitably. After control the lines must be brought back to their
place.
3 If the generator is correct, one must remove the line, which proceeds from
the clamp R of the relay automatic controller, as a check of the relay
automatic controller from the clamp 30/51 of the central switch and switch
a lamp on between this line and the mass. If after starting the engine the
lamp shows or does not burn a weak glowing at all, then this is called that
the relay automatic controller is defective. With this control of the relay
automatic controller one can bring the engine on high routes, without
having to fear that the lamp burns through.
The motorcycle has a 6-Volt-Saeure-Batterie with plates, type SMT -- 14, with
a capacity of 14 Amp./Std..
The positive terminal is attached to ground, the negative pole to the wiring.
The battery is the only power source of the motorcycle while stationary and
with the work of the engine at low RPM, the generator does not supply power.
During a night travel also fully switched on power consumers, with temporary
short overloads, when switching on of the signal on and at low speed into 4.
Course is insufficient the stromabgabe of the generator and by the battery is
supplemented. Therefore it is advisable, in order to avoid an unloading of the
battery to drive during nocturnal travels in the city during good road lighting
with small light.
While driving one must make certain that the battery will not excessively
drain. During strong draining of the battery the plates cover themselves with
a layer of sulfur-sour lead, i.e. it takes place a sulfation of the plates. The
sulfur-sour lead of the plates is a steady connection. A battery, in the case of
which the plates are covered with sulfur-sour lead, charges badly and
discharges very fast.
One can judge the degree of the loading of a battery by the tension and the
density of the electrolyte. The tension of each element of a fully charged
battery is equivalent 2,1 -- 2.2 V. With unloading the tension falls fast on 2 V
and lowers themselves then gradually up to 1.7 V. In no case the tension
may go under this limit.
The statement of the degree of the charge is safer after the density of the
electrolyte, which is measured with an specific gravity gauge. The density of
the electrolyte is to amount to in the case of a fully charged battery 32°
Baumé, which corresponds to a specific weight of 1,285. In the winter, with
strong, frost, one must bring the specific weight of the electrolyte up to 1,3 --
1.32 (33 -- 35° Baumé). If, while the motorcycle is in service, the specific
weight is reduced up to 1,25, then this is called that the battery is empty and
must be absolutely filled.
The conditions of the electrolyte in the battery are to exceed the upper disk
edges around 10 -- 15 mm. During service the water evaporates. Therefore
one, if the conditions of the electrolyte are lower in the battery than the
indicated border, must distilled water on the elements refill.
One must make certain that the battery is kept always clean and that the
openings in the fillers do not get dirty.
In the case of longer sitting without charging the battery discharges gradually.
If the battery is not used, one must load it monthly about 2 hours or so with 1-
Ampere-Strom unload, electrolyte to pour off, which rinses elements out
several marks with warm water and which keep battery in dry condition. If
loaded batteries longer time stand, one must reload, unload and again load
them each half-year.
If the battery is in service, the clamps must always with a thin layer of
technical vaseline or grease to be provided.
New motorcycles receive the buyers both with loaded and with dry,
uncharged batteries. Dry batteries must before start-up with electrolyte
(GOST 667 -- 53) with a specific weight of 1,120 and a temperature of 20 --
25° to be full-filled. In order to manufacture electrolyte, one must pour battery
sulfuric acid in distilled or rain water, but in reverse. The first charge begins 2
-- 3 hours after filling up the elements with electrolyte and with an amperage
of 2 ampere. If the tension in each element 2.38 -- 2.42 V reached, the
amperage on l ampere is lowered and loading up to the conclusion is
continued. First loading takes approximately 35 -- 45 hours. The signs of the
completion of loading are: A) plentiful gas elimination in all elements, b)
stability of the tension to the Poland of the elements in the course of 2 hours,
C) stability of the density of the electrolyte in the course of 2 hours.
At the end of the second and following loadings the specific weight of the
electrolyte brought on 1,285 by Zugiessen of distilled water or of acid with a
specific weight of 1,40, according to whether the density of the electrolyte is
to be increased or reduced. At expiration of 15 -- 20 minutes the density of
the electrolyte is controlled, and if it 1,285 is not alike, the work is repeated,
electrolyte is sucked off and water or acid in addition-poured.
to produce candles over at the motorcycle M-72 high voltage stream are
inserted at present the circuit breaker distributors Pm-05 and the ignition coil
Ig-4085-b. The situation of the distributor is shown in fig. 28 and those the
ignition coil in fig. 29. The distributor Pm-05 (fig. 30) consists of the cover of
the distributor of high voltage stream, the circuit breaker disk and the circuit
breaker.
The distributor cover has three connections for high voltage transmission
lines: the central, by that the high-tension river from the ignition coil to the
distributor one leads and two lateral, by which the high-tension river is led
from the distributor to the candles. On the circuit breaker disk the middle
contact is in form of a metal cap with a feather/spring as well as a lateral
contact plate.
Fig 29
The situation of the ignition coil industrial union -- 4085 – B
The circuit breaker consists of a housing and a disk, on which the hammer
and the anvil are fastened. With a movement of the ignition hand lever on the
left side of the steering wheel the rope pulls on the disk and turns it, whereby
also the early and spaetzuendung are stopped. On the disk the screw 3 is
fastened with an eccentric head (adjustment eccentric cam), which goes in
into a cutout of the housing. Depending upon the position of the eccentric
cam in or other situation changes the maximum angle, in which the circuit
breaker disk can turn. With the plate can turn outermost position of the
eccentric cam around 15°, with second around 20°, whereby the enlargement
of the angle of rotation of the disk of 15 on 20° in the direction of an
enlargement of the maximum angle of the spark advance develops. The
minimum angle of the spaetzuendung remains unchanged. As soon as the
adjustment has been completed the eccentric cam into the desired situation
one must secure it with a lock nut.
In the top of the circuit breaker housing a condenser is inserted, which serves
the sparking of the breaker points for the decrease and for the protection from
a burn.
Before one puts the circuit breaker cover on, one must the presence of the
spring clip, for which coals and the seals in the cover control. For the engine
of the Rades M-72 one uses candles of the type WELL 11/11 A -- U with the
thermal value 145. The distance between the electrodes of the candles
should be 0.5 -- 0.6 mm. The attitude of the distance takes place via bending
the lateral electrode.
After each 1500 km put back by the motorcycle the following is necessary:
l. The condition of the work surfaces of the contacts of the circuit breaker and
the size of the distance between them are to be examined. If the contacts are
processed or burned down, then one must remove the hammer and the anvil,
which clean and with gasoline wash contacts with a kontaktfeile.
2. One must examine the distance of the electrodes of the candles and clean
her if required of oil coal.
3. One must examine all 3000 -- 5000 km the connections of the lines for
security. Suspending the engine and the difficulty or even the impossibility of
starting the engine, can be based on different reasons by defects of the
ignition apparatuses.
The signal
The headlight
The central ignition switch is in the top of the headlight and is there fastened
with 3 screws. In the left part of the central ignition switch the indicator light
lies, in the right fusible 15-Ampere safety device.
For the replacement of a burned through safety device one needs to unscrew
only the fuse holder, with which together the safety device can be taken out.
If the motorcycle stands, one may let the ignition key be in no case
completely imprinted in the starter lock, because then the battery can
discharge of the ignition coil over the main coil.
Fig 31
Sketch for adjustment the headlight
Direction of the light cone to receive, takes place in the following way:
1. The motorcycle with load is set up on an even place before a white wall or
a light light at a distance of 10 m up to the headlight glass (fig. 31).
2. The headlight is held in such a position, with which the axle of the light
cone of the large light is horizontal, D h. if the center light spots on the light
screen and the center of the headlight in the same distance from the ground
are.
3. The small light is controlled on that. The top margin of the Lichtfleckens
on the light screen does not have to be to less than 10 cm when switching on
small of the light on under the center of the headlight.
The lines
the connection of the lines in the fig. 25 and 26 one shows. The low-voltage
lines are combined in bundles and have into the easier assembly different
colors.
Fig 32
Operating lubrication pattern
in the table is indicated the lubrication fittings, the dates of controls and the
oil change as well as sort and mark of the oil which can be used according to
the season. When lubricating the main parts of the motorcycle, which are to
be taken apart for this, the old oil and/or fat must be removed, it must when
the assembling thickly with fresh fat be in-lubricated. Fig. 33 shows the
sketch of a motorcycle with the indication of all lubrication fittings.
after completion of the travel and return to the garage must be submitted the
motorcycle of a thorough cleaning. One cleans the engine and transmission
case best with a haarpinsel dipped into petroleum. Painted and chromium-
plated places with a soft rag and a sponge are washed, whereupon with dry
cotton rag abraded.
When washing one must avoid a too strong water pressure, which jet not
directly on the generator, which automatic controllers, headlights and
carburetors arrange, since the humidity penetrates into individual parts,
rusting to cause and and defects of the machine which can be eliminated
which can be overcome with difficulty involve can.
After drying it is advisable, the hinge of the rear, tiltable part of the shield and
the brake courses provided with some drops oil too, in order to prevent a
corrosion in these places.
1 2 3 4 5
1,19,23 Wheel Axles 3 All 2000km. While Grease Grease
changing a tire wipe
off and with fresh fat
lubricate.
2,29 Axles and cams of 2 All 2000 km divide, Grease Grease
the brake shoes wash and with fresh
fat lubricate.
3, 21, 25, 30 Wheel hubs 4 All 1000 km fat Grease Grease
(reserve if squirt. After 2000
necessarily) km wheels
decrease, hubs
wash and freshly
lubricate.
4 Clutch and 2 All 1000 km grease. Grease Motor Oil
bremsseile During the transition 10-18
to the winter fat off
wash and lubricate
with engine oil.
5 Shock absorber of 5 All 2000 km wash Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil 6
the vordergabel and 0,1Ltr. fresh oil 18
on each
feather/spring pour.
6 Thrust bearing of 2 All 1000 km fat Grease Grease
the steering shaft squirt. Take out not
less than once in the
year or after 8000
km, wash and
freshly grease.
7 Lever of the throttle 1 All 2000 km with fat Grease Motor Oil 6
guidance squirt. Divide during
the transition to the
winter operation,
wash and freshly
grease.
8 Clutch and brake 2 All 2000 km the Grease Grease
lever axles take out and
freshly lubricate.
9 Circuit breaker 1 All 2000 km wash Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil 6
and 2-3 drops 18
engine oil on the
circuit breaker axle
and l-2 drop on the
felt brush traeufeln.
10,22 Hinge of the 2 After 4000 km take Grease Grease
zangenverbindung apart, wash and
freshly lubricate.
11 Crankshaft housing 1 Daily and up to the Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil
mark, all 1000 km oil 18 10-18
control refill change.
12 Generator, rear 1 Renew fat of the
camp rear rotor camp after
4000 km.
1 2 3 4 5
13 Air Filter 1 Wash and after 500 Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil 6
km oil change. On 18
particularly dusty
roads all 150 -- 200
km change.
14 Transmission 1 After 1000 km Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil 6
Case control and refill 18
15 Foot switching 1 Daily lubricate Grease Grease
pedal
16 Front saddle joint 1 Lubricate every Grease Grease
1000km
Feather/spring 2 Lubricate every Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil 6
joint 1000km 18
17 Joint of the 2 All 2000 km divide, Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil 6
Emergency Brake wash and lubricate 18
Joint of the brake 1 All 2000 km divide, Grease Motor Oil 6
pedal wash and lubricate
18 Rear saddle joint 1 Lubricate every Grease Grease
1000km
Feather/spring 4 Lubricate every Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil 6
hinges 1000km 18
20 Cardan shaft joint 1 All 2000 km Grease Grease
lubricate. If dirt
under the cap is,
wash
24 Left and right 2 All 1000 km Grease Grease
suspension lubricate. After
4000 km, but not
less than once in
the year divide, do
not wash and
freshly lubricate.
26 Housing of the 1 All 2000 km control Transmission Transmission
power refill. Discharge sommeroel sommeroel
transmission after 4000 km,
wash and fresh oil
fill up.
27 Eyes rear shield of 1 Lubricate every Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil 6
the hinge 2000km 18
28 Federschuhe 2 All 1000 km Grease Grease
lubricate. With
particularly dusty
roads daily
31 Hinges of the 2 Lubricate every Grease Motor Oil 6
baggage 2000km
compartment
cover
32 Speedometer 1 Clean and lubricate Motor Oil 10- Motor Oil 6
spiral every 2000km 18
33 Axle bearing of the 1 Lubricate every Grease Grease
lever of the torque 1000km
shaft
I. main data
V. Electrical equipment
34. Ignition system: Battery
35. Battery: Smt-14 6 V of 14 Amp./Std.
36. Generator: G 11 A 6 V 45 Watts of
37. Relay automatic controller: Rr-31
38. Distributor: Pm-05
39. Headlight: Fg-6
40. Signal: S-35
41. Taillight
42. Front sidecar lamp
43. Rear sidecar lamp
Spare parts
1. Candles. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 pieces
2. Spare wheel complete. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l piece
3. short spokes. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 pieces
4. Ignition key. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 pieces
5. Key to the toolbox. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l piece
6. long spokes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 pieces
7. ET box for generator. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 pieces
8. Cylinder head gaskets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 pieces
9. Fuse box for headlight. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l piece
10. Speedometer spiral. . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l piece
11. Oil rings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 pieces
12. Compression rings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 pieces
13. Nipple. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 pieces
14. Gasoline hose, long. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l piece
15. Gasoline hose briefly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l piece
16. Clutch cable. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . l piece
The motorcycle M-72 with sidecar is manufactured according to the designs and
technical conditions, it is tried out and from the department technical control
removed.
Signatures as required:
The exact observance of all regulations, which are specified in the operating
instruction, ensures a long and troublefree work of the motorcycle.
If questions emerge, which are not mentioned in the maintaining and operating
instruction, one turns with further inquiries to the factory.
Approved
Lead engineer of the Irbiter motorcycle factory
signed.: I g n . t j e w
3 October 1953