COMBER DATA 1.

0 Introduction This R&D Project based upon Spin Plan, Spin Matrix and Card Fibre Transfer Test Pc-programs to improve quality and production volumes from card/comber to ring/rotor frames. In order to improve yarn quality and increase production volumes at each stage of processing line Quality Improvement Tests should be carried out in spinning mills. However, there are many technical parameters so to be tested in order to optimize the test plan and test results. The usual procedure is to follow "change one parameter and follow the result up to yarn. This procedure is time consuming and based upon trial and error method. We have developed Knowledge Based Pc-Programs to identify the key parameters that actually affect the yarn quality and Spinning Performance Index. Hence at one Test these key parameters are changed to optimize the spinning process. Therefore, contribution of these key parameters upon yarn quality could be analyzed by Spin Matrix Pc-Program and time consuming change one-parameter at a time test system is avoided. This is new conception in Test Method and results were analyzed by Variance Analyses and Spc-Techniques provided by Itru Group Ltd. Therefore with this new system of quality, production improvement tests are carried out in a short time and more quantitative results gathered to improve spinning processing line. Spin Plan ver 1.0 PC-program is for use on IBM-compatible PCs to compute important fiber parameters, index of irregularity at each stage of processing, curves for short fiber content percentage, mean fiber length for leading and trailing hooks and drawing actual and optimum DRAFT CURVE through" Knowledge Based Problem Analyses and Problem Solving Techniques" developed by ITRU GROUP LTD to assist to Spin Plan R&D Project. 1.1. Purpose of the program and R&D Project Spin Plan by Intro Group Ltd. Program has been developed through many years of research and experience carried out in spinning mills. This program makes use of the fibrogram & evenness tester instruments to be more valuable to the spinning mills by determining short fiber content by fiber number, mean fiber length, index of irregularity, draft curve. 1.1.1. Fibre Hook Theory It has been very well known that fibres leaving the carding machine are not straight and parallel. Fibres have some hooks at leading and trailing

sides. And if these hooks are not gently straightened could be broken and weak places occur in yarn. Trailing and leading hooks could be determined by fibrogram instrument by measuring the slivers at trailing and leading sides. Trailing hooks are mainly due to the transfer between carding cylinder and doffer. Therefore, by checking the card web, card sliver and hooks one could achieve optimum card sliver. SPINNING MILL DATA BANK + TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY & SPECTROGRAM ANALYSES PC-PROGRAMS is very effective to minimize trailing and leading hooks in carding. These hooks could be minimized but could not be eliminated. For this purpose we have also developed TRANSFER FUNCTION AND DRAFTING WAVES IN CARDING PCPROGRAM. Fibres leaving the carding cylinder contain hooked fibres and if these hooks are not properly straightened in subsequent processes then yarn quality is deteriorated. The other important point is that the fiber breakage in carding. If the fibres mean length after 1st passage of drawing does not increase then it is evident that fibres are broken in carding. Faulty transfer between carding cylinder and doffer and fiber breakage cause high linear irregularity of CV% in carding sliver and represent a similar pattern of drafting waves in drafting. Therefore the card settings, relative speeds of taker-in, cylinder and doffer and selection of proper card wire determine the carding performance. The processes after carding straighten these trailing and leading hooks. But over stretching of fibres in drafting zones could weaken the fibres and fibres are broken at drafting. ITRU GROUP LTD. based upon the actual mill experience and practical results claim that leading and trailing hooks play an important role in determining the yarn quality and spinning performance as well percentage of combing noil. 1.1.2. Computation of short fiber content by fiber number This program computes short fiber content by fiber number from the 2.5 and 50% span length values measured on fibrogram of comber lap, combed sliver and combing noil. Computation of short fiber content by fiber number would give information to check the combing efficiency of top comb, combing cylinder and nippers. By comparison of back and front clamps one could determine the hooked fiber content and fiber parallelism. It should be stated that 2.5 span length values would not only be taken into account to determine the cleaning efficiency of short fiber content. The reasons are as follows: An increase in 2.5 span length values could be due to removing fiber crimp or permanent extension of fibres. Therefore having greater 2.5 % span length values in combed sliver could lead to fiber breakage in draft zone of ring spinning. Therefore, we advise

you to just check the span length values of combed sliver and ring pnomophil waste values, which make the actual yarn. According to our experience carried out in different mills that setting the draft zones according to the 2.5% span length or minimum evenness values would not lead to good quality of yarn and does not represent the real facts. Therefore, after combing the processes should be checked in accordance with the short fiber content by fiber number rather than 2.5 % span length values. However, we must state that the short fiber content by fiber number is more important at combing than the processes after combing. In order to achieve optimum yarn quality draft zone settings and draft Organization should be taken into a consideration. 1.1.3. Computation of mean fiber length by fiber weight This program also computes mean fiber length by fiber weight from 2.5 and 50 % span length values. Mean fiber length by fiber weight is important especially in combing because it is not possible to determine the percentage of short fiber removal from fiber-number distribution diagram. Therefore, by comparison of mean fiber length of combed sliver, comber lap and combing noil it is possible to evaluate the combing quality. 1.2. Data Input and Output Output values are shown in the SUMMARY OF FIBRE DATA RESULTS AND STAPLE DIAGRAMS 1.3. Pc-Program Mill Trials for Processing Organization Ratch setting distances and break draft ratios, draft organizations have large influence on the yarn quality parameters. It is clear that from mill experience that CV% of linear irregularity in carding, combing, drawing roving could vary and low CV% values would not always lead to better quality of yarn and it is always tedious to follow up the experiments up to spinning to see the effects of changes made in previous processes. SPIN PLAN ITRU GROUP LTD has been developed through extensive research work carried out on many spinning mills as well as many research works by the other institutions for the last 40 years. This PC-program for use on IBM compatible PCs to compute Index of irregularity for each stage of processing Mean fibre length by fiber weight curve for leading and trailing hooks from the fibrogram span-length values to determine the fiber orientation degree and fiber breakage

Short fiber content curve for leading and trailing hooks to determine over-stretched fibres and unsuitable drafting conditions such as field of friction of drafting forces, ratch settings. The complete actual draft curve in accordance with the actual fiber length growth and linear irregularity at each stage of processing so that optimum spectrogram curves could be obtained at each stage. We call these parameters as DRAFT CV and draft lengths for each process. Optimum linear irregularity value at each stage of processing achieves optimum quality of yarn according to the requirements of yarn quality as well as identifying faulty running section in spinning process. 1.3.1 Importance of Processing Organization for Optimum Quality of Yarn. The optimum processing Organization would depend upon mainly two factors: a) Fibre Data b) Spinning Data Spinning Data consists of 1. Type of yarn manufacturing process 2. Yarn Count Turns per cm Fibre Data should be selected in accordance with Spinning Data for achieving optimum yarn quality with minimum manufacturing costs for this purpose we have <<FIBRE MIX SELECTION & CONTROL PCPROGRAMS>>. Therefore, processing Organization should be compatible with Fiber Data and Spinning Data. Second point is to have optimum processing Organization according to existing raw material mix in the mill. According our experience carried out in different spinning mills having similar fiber data and spinning data would lead to have different quality of yarn parameters due to different processing Organization. Processing Organization consists of mainly draft Organization, which includes number of doubling, count fed, ratch setting distances etc. The usual procedure is to make a trial tests at each stage of processing and follow it up to yarn. However, this is rather tiresome and could also be influenced by the changes in raw material mix. Therefore, one has to decide required yarn quality parameters mainly evenness of mass and strength. For example if one needs 12 CV% in yarn evenness then this program determines the required CV% values in prior processes in order to achieve target CV% value in yarn.

The CV% values in carding, drawing and roving should not be high and too low but in accordance with the draft curve. This assumptions made by us prove experimental works carried out in draw frames in many mills that low CV% values would lead high CV% values in yarn. But manufacturing of a yarn with accordance with the draft curve one could see the required CV% value at each stage of processing. 1.3.2 Importance of Draft Curve and Draft Angle It is clear from our research work in many spinning mills that ratch setting distances and draft geometry are determined by two conceptions: a) If the fibres move in tufts than sliver extension theory b) If the fibres are parallel then fibres-extension theory. c) Combination of both case a and case b. We have also found that setting of ratch distances according to our MASS SPECTROGRAM PC-PROGRAM is very effective. MASS SPECTROGRAM PC-PROGRAM draws the actual spectrogram curve according to given fiber properties and CV% of sliver. By comparison of these two curves we could determine the drafting waves, fiber breakage and optimum ratch setting distances and break draft ratios. On the other hand Draft curve is a sign of complete spinning process any deviations from this curve shows a faulty running process. We have also observed that draft curve is also related to the strength variation in the yarn. There are many quality/process control procedures, which have been practiced in spinning mills, and they are filed in files and signed by several mill staff. Draft Zone setting Pc-program is useful to identify the faulty running process and for quality improvement better mill running performance. But there are also other tests should be carried out in the mill. Process/Quality control and assurance procedures could be divided into two sections. a) Knowledge Based eliminates problems before they occur such as our Fiber Mix Selection Pc-program, which predicts the yarn strength before yarn manufacturing. b) Statistical Process Control corrects the problem on line or of line. For zero defects both systems are necessary.

But the main point in any spinning mill is to have continuous improvement in minimum manufacturing costs and optimum quality of products with zero defects. Within this in mind we have examined all the existing quality/process control procedures and developed step-by-step problem analyses/problem solving systems through tests carried out in spinning mills. All the tests carried out in spinning mill analyzed in systematic manner and problems are solved in correct manner. With this system the complete process is improved. Step by step quality improvement findings Frequency diagram of yarn tensile force test Problem: High strength variation and weak places Material Process Fibre Mix Selection PC-program Draft Zone Setting Pc-program Bale Management PC-program Twist variation Control Pc-program RKM CV% Control Pc-program Therefore, with the aids of PC-programs and more detailed analyses of the tests one could get more exact solutions to the problems. As it was mentioned before draft curve shows us the faulty running process and the draft angle is a sign of the quality level of the spinning process. Abnormal changes in the draft angle indicate the deviation from normal spinning process. This program is for use on IBM-compatible PCs to compute important fibre parameters and optimum noil percentage as well as to check the functioning of nippers, top comb and combing cylinder through" Knowledge Based Problem Analyses and Problem Solving Techniques" developed by ITRU GROUP LTD. 2.1 Purpose of the program COMBER DATA BY ITRU GROUP LTD. program has been developed through many years of research and experience carried out in spinning mills. This program makes use of the fibro gram instrument to be more valuable to the spinning mills by determining short fibre content by number, coefficient of fibre length variation by fibre number and mean

fibre length by fibre weight as well. Drawing the fibre weight staple curves from only two readings of span length values 2.5 and 50% by comparison of the staple curves of comber lap and combed sliver, one could analyze the efficiency of combing action. Combing of cotton is a high cost of yarn manufacturing process. The yarn must meet required quality parameters with a minimum noil percentage possible. The intention in mills is usually to increase the noil percentage to achieve better yarn quality parameters. But it is clear from our experience that optimum yarn quality could only be achieved if the combing action is carried out well i.e. by removing short fibres. An increase in noil % does not necessarily mean that the short fibre content is reduced in sliver, it could even get worse. Therefore, this program checks whether the combing action is successful or not by comparing short fibre content in the comber lap and in the sliver as well as checking the trailing and leading hooks fibre breakage. The program also compares the actual and recommended combing noil percentages and suggests an advisable noil range. Therefore, it is possible to carry out tests to achieve best results till the combing is OK. 2.2 Computation of short fiber content by fiber number This program computes short fiber content by fiber number from the 2.5 and 50% span length values measured on fibrogram of comber lap, combed sliver and combing noil. Computation of short fiber content by fiber number would give information to check the combing efficiency of top comb, combing cylinder and nippers. By comparison of back and front clamps one could determine the hooked fiber content and fiber parallelism. It should be stated that 2.5 span length values would not only be taken into account to determine the cleaning efficiency of short fiber content. The reasons are as follows: An increase in 2.5 span length values could be due to removing fiber crimp or permanent extension of fibres. Therefore having greater 2.5 % span length values in combed sliver could lead to fiber breakage in draft zone of ring spinning. Therefore, we advise you to just check the span length values of combed sliver and ring pnomophil waste values, which make the actual yarn. According to our experience carried out in different mills that setting the draft zones according to the 2.5% span length or minimum evenness values would not lead to good quality of yarn and does not represent the real facts. Therefore, after combing the processes should be checked in accordance with the short fiber content by fiber number rather than 2.5 % span length values. However, we must state that the short fiber content by fiber

number is more important at combing than the processes after combing. In order to achieve optimum yarn quality draft zone settings and draft Organization should be taken into a consideration. For this purpose according required linear irregularity value (CV%), we have developed a new program called "LOG-CV- DRAFT ZONE SETTINGS" which would give you the information whether your draft zone settings are in accordance with the yarn quality and whether producing H1, H2, I1 and I2 faults on yarn. This program will be available upon request. 2.2.1 Computation of mean fiber length by fiber weight This program also computes mean fiber length by fiber weight from 2.5 and 50 % span length values. Mean fiber length by fiber weight is important especially in combing because it is not possible to determine the percentage of short fiber removal from fiber-number distribution diagram. Therefore, by comparison of mean fiber length of combed sliver, comber lap and combing noil it is possible to evaluate the combing quality. 2.2.2 Computation of coefficient of fiber length variation by fiber number The program also computes the coefficient of fiber length variation by fiber number, which is a very important parameter, which would give valuable information about the fiber parallelism, and distribution of single fiber length values. Higher the coefficient of fiber length variation greater the fiber problems would be in subsequent processes after combing. 2.2.3 Computation of minimum and maximum noil % according to comber lap Percentage of short fibres should be removed from comber lap, would depend upon the fiber-length by fiber weight staple diagram of comber lap, which could not be obtainable from fibrogram. Therefore, we have developed a program, which determines the staple curve of comber lap by fiber weight. From this curve it is possible to fix fiber length, which could be taken as a short fiber. We have taken fibres shorter than 12.5 mm as short fibres to start with. Maximum noil percentage would then only be decided upon the quality of yarn but should not exceed the value given by us.

2.2.4 Computation of combing quality index The program computes the efficiency of combing action by the effective short fiber removal according to combed lap. Therefore, by making comparison of different combing machines one could identify the offstandard functioning machines. In theory 100% combing efficiency is possible, but in practice this never occurs. No combing machines could remove all the short fibres because some long fibres are dragged long with short fibres. 2.2.5 Computation of combing noil percentage according to comber lap and detaching roller setting and total draft The program also computes the noil percentage according to computed comber lap fiber weight staple curve and detaching roll setting which correlates 95% with the actual results obtained. The program in addition to that given total draft lap weight, count delivered also computes noil percentage. 2.2.6 Computation of Fiber weight staple curves This program plots 7 fiber weight staple curves comber lap, combed sliver and combing noil respectively. By comparing the staple curves of comber lap, combing sliver and combing noil one could analyze how the actual combing action is carried out whether there are long fibres in the combing noil and short fibres broken in the combed sliver. 2.3 Program structure The program is composed of 4 subsequent programs linked to each other. Program is structured in such a way that all the information could be stored in another file and then could be edited and sorted for future analyses and the relevant data could be written. Therefore, these programs would motivate your technical staff to work harder and to overcome problems in combing and subsequent processes. The program also analyses the actual combing action .If the actual noil percentage is higher than computed value due to leading or trailing hooked fiber breakage and not properly functioning of top comp, combing cylinder and nippers it states that COMBING IS NOT QK. For this purpose the program makes use of other information developed by ITRU GROUP LTD.-International Textile Consulting & Management

"KNOWLEDGE BASED PROBLEM ANALYSES AND PROBLEM SOLVING TECHNIQUES." 2.3.1 Data and results output INPUT VALUES 2.5 And 50 % span length values back comber lap in mm =? 2.5 And 50 % span length values front comber lap in mm =? 2.5 And 50 % span length values back-combed sliver RH in mm=? 2.5 And 50 % span length values front-combed sliver RH in mm=? 2.5 And 50 % span length values back-combed sliver LH in mm=? 2.5 And 50 % span length values front comber sliver LH in mm=? 2.5 And 50 % span length values combing noil in mm................=? LAP WEIGHT G/M................................................................... =? COUNT DELIVERED G/M ......................................................=? TOTAL DRAFT..........................................................................=? DETACHING ROLL DISTANCE IN MM................................=? NOIL % MEASURED ACCORDING TO FORM PQ-#101 BY ITRU GROUP LTD. = Output values are shown in the SUMMARY OF FIBRE DATA RESULTS AND STAPLE DIAGRAMS 2.3.2 Mill trials with comber data pc-program It has been observed through our YIELD PERFORMANCE IN RING SPINNING PC-PROGRAMS and MILL WORKS that combing noil constitutes approximately 50 to 65 % of total waste in ring spinning. Therefore, reduction in combing noil percentage with optimum yarn quality will reduce the manufacturing costs and improve the spinning and weaving performance. We have observed that combing noil could be

reduced and better yarn quality could be achieved. Following figures compares two combed spinning mills using the same fiber type with different combing noil percentages but achieving different yarn strength values. It is interesting to note that MILL a having 17% of combing noil percentage has achieved better yarn strength and strength variation than MILL B running with 22% of combing noil percentage. We have also observed that combing noil % could be reduced to 12% in MILL A for weaving yarn. It is very clear our works carried out in spinning mills that PC-PROGRAMS certainly bring new conceptions to spinning and weaving mills to achieve minimum manufacturing costs and optimum quality of yarn.
Fibre Type Combin CV% g Noil Evenn % ess Yarn strength cn/tex CV% Yarn strength CV% Elongatio n Yarn Count

Elongati on % 5.5 7 5.2

MILL A MILL B MILL C

Izmir 1 1/8 Izmir 1 1/8 Izmir 1 1/8

14

11

15.6 15.2 15.8 15.2

6.5

5.5

6.5

30/1 hosiery 30/1 hosiery 30/1 hosiery

17 22

13.4 13.2

5.6 9.9

7 5.2

5.5 9.8

Table 1.Comparison of combing noil % in three spinning mills It is clear from experimental results that combing noil % should not be determined by trial and error method but it should be carefully analyzed and minimum combing noil % should be obtained with optimum yarn quality. Combing noil percentage depends upon mainly following factors: Fiber type Combing lap preparation Combing machine adjustments and maintenance Yarn end use knitting or weaving yarn Technical Data/Machine Settings after combing

Therefore, we have following mill control systems and PC-programs to achieve lower combing noil % with optimum yarn quality. Process/Quality Control Assurance & Control Process Management Systems Fiber Mix Search & Selection Control PC-program Bale Management PC-program Draft Zone Setting PC-program Spinning Mill Data Bank + Textile Technology & Spectrogram Analyses Waste Control Systems + PC-programs Maintenance & Checklists procedures To improve spinning mill performance is a complete process of work. And small changes make larger differences in the profitability ratio of any mill. And PC-programs are without doubt the main key for these aims to be accomplished. Any mill could see the effects of small changes making large differences in the quality and productivity levels of mills will have a greater chance of competitiveness in the international trade. For minimum cost of manufacturing and optimum quality and better spinning and weaving performance level, our PC-PROGRAM is must for all spin mills.

Reference: ITRU GROUP LTD -International Textile Research Unit