Propagating Plants

from Seed

a paci f i c n orth wes t e x t e ns i o n p ub l i c at i o n • PNW 0 1 70

Washington State University • Oregon1 State University • University of Idaho

 PROPAGATING PLANTS FROM SEED
By G.N.M. Kumar, F.E. Larsen, and K.A. Schekel

Many annual and perennial plants can be vegetables, annual flowers, and easy-to-grow
propagated from seeds. Although growing perennials. Seed propagation is less often used
plants from seeds is relatively easy compared to grow woody plants such as fruit and woody
to other methods of multiplying plants, it can ornamentals and some of the more difficult-
be challenging due to the specific germination to-germinate perennials. This is especially true
requirements of certain seeds. In general, such for hybrid or highly selected plants where new
requirements are related to overcoming various plants grown from seed rarely resemble the
kinds of germination inhibitions. This publication parents.
provides information on how to germinate seeds
and grow them into healthy plants. Although seed-propagated perennials take
several years to flower and fruit, the method
is often preferred. For example, nurseries raise
Seed Selection rootstocks for grafting from seeds because seed
Before you start, it will be helpful to learn about propagation can give raise to seedlings that
the seeds you’ll be dealing with so you can may be superior to their parents. Many native
ensure the process of propagation goes smoothly plant nurseries propagate from seeds to enhance
and ask specific questions pertaining to seed gardening diversity and stagger the timing of
propagation. fruit production to sustain wildlife.

What are seeds? Can seeds from previous years be used for
the current year’s planting?
To a botanist, a “seed” is a specialized plant
structure, complete with a tiny embryo, which It is best to buy fresh seeds in amounts sufficient
is capable of growing into a new plant. Each for the current season’s planting, but most
seed has an embryo and food storage structures vegetable and annual flower seeds from the
enclosed in a seedcoat (Fig. 1). Under conditions
favorable for germination, the embryo develops Cotyledon
into a mature plant as it is nourished by the food
reserves in the storage structures, sometimes in Plumule
tissue called an endosperm and sometimes in the Plumule Radicle
cotyledons.

For a horticulturist, seed sometimes refers to

any part of a plant capable of regenerating
into a new plant. For example, in commercial Radicle
cultivation of potato, the tuber is used as a
vegetative propagule rather than the botanical Seedcoat
seeds. Vegetatively propagated plants closely Cotyledon
Seedcoat
resemble their parent plants. To simplify, a
potato tuber is referred to as a seed-tuber.
Fig. 1. Parts of Kentucky coffee seed. Kentucky coffee is
What plants are generally propagated by a dicot seed consisting of two cotyledons that store food
seeds? reserves, a seedcoat, and an embryo. The embryo consists
of a plumule and radical. Upon germination, a plumule
Although most plants produce seeds, seed develops into the shoot and the radical develops the root
propagation is most common for grains, system.

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previous year germinate quite well if stored in characteristics, purchase new seeds of
moisture-proof containers in a refrigerator (4oC or these kinds of plants every year.
39oF). • Avoid seeds from diseased plants.
How long seeds can be stored without
appreciable loss in viability depends primarily What are the attributes of quality seeds?
on the nature of the seed, its moisture content, Where can I buy them?
and the temperature and relative humidity
Seeds should be true to the cultivar indicated
during storage. Improperly dried seeds can
on the package. High germination percentages
rapidly lose viability in storage, which is why
(85%–90%) will produce a larger batch of
moisture-proof containers are important. Most
seedlings. Freedom from extraneous matter such
medicine pill and vitamin bottles with screw-on
as dirt, twigs, other crop and/or weed seeds, and
caps can be used for storing seeds. They often
seed-borne diseases are other important attributes
come with a small packet of silica gel that works
of a good quality seed. Since seed viability and
as a drying agent. Make sure the lid is closed
germination percentages can decline in storage,
tightly to prevent moisture getting into the
it is preferable to buy seeds produced from the
container. A list of selected vegetable and flower
previous year’s seed crop.
crops and their average longevity is presented
in Table 1. Buy certified seeds from a reputable seed
company. Certified vegetable and ornamental
Can seeds collected from my garden be plant seeds are sold at the beginning of spring in
used for the current year’s planting? most retail outlets. You can also mail-order seeds
from catalogues or online. Prior to placing your
Seeds collected at the proper maturity and stored order, confirm that the selected plants are suitable
well can be used for planting in subsequent years. for growing in your region. The local growing
However: season should be sufficient enough to allow the
• Avoid seeds from hybrid plants such as selected plant to reach maturity. In areas with
tomatoes and corn and those that are short growing periods (3–5 months), some may
cross-pollinated such as pumpkin and fail to reach maturity. Refer to Table 2 for the crop
squash since the plants from collected duration. Your local county Extension office will
seeds will likely differ from the parent also be able to advise you on what plants grow
plants. To maintain consistency in cultivar well in your area.

Table 1. Approximate longevity (years) of selected vegetable and flower seeds.

Longevity Vegetable seeds Flower seeds

Cardoon, Collards, Cucumber, Endive, Garden Carnation, Chrysanthemum, Hollyhock,
5
cress, Muskmelon, Radish, Water cress Nasturtium, Salpiglossis, Sweet sultans, Zinnia
Beets, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower,
Chicory, Eggplant, Fennel, Kale, Mustard,
4 Sweet alyssum
Pumpkin, Rutabaga, Sorrel, Squash, Swiss
chard, Tomato, Turnip, Watermelon
Asparagus, Beans, Brussels sprouts, Carrot,
African daisy, Cosmos, Dusty miller, Marigold,
Celeriac, Celery, Chervil, Chinese cabbage,
3 Pansy, Petunia, Scabiosa, Shasta daisy,
Kohlrabi, New Zealand Spinich, Pea, Spinach,
Snapdragon, Verbena
Roselle
Ciboule, Dandelion, Leek, Marynia, Sweet
2 Aster, Phlox, Sweet pea
corn, Okra, Pepper
Lettuce, Onion, Parsley, Parsnip, Salsify, Sea
1 Delphinium
kale
Source: Adapted from Bienz D.R. 1980. The why and how of home horticulture. W.H. Freeman and Company,
New York.

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Table 2. Suggestions for successful propagation of common vegetables from seed and vegetative propagules.

Soil temperature
Seeds Distance for seed*

Weeks to grow to
transplant size†
Between plants
per foot of row

Needs cool soil

Depth to plant

Needs light to
Between rows

Tolerates cool

Needs warm
No. days to
No. to sow

germinate

germinate

maturity‡
Days to
(inch)

(inch)

(inch)

soil

soil
Vegetable
Asparagus 1½ 18 36 7–21 — • 1 year 3 years
Asparagus Lettuce ½ 8–10 12 18 4–10 — • 4–6 80
Beans: Snap Bush 1½–2 6–8 2–3 18–30 6–14 — • 45–65
Snap Pole 1½–2 4–6 4–6 36–48 6–14 — • 60–70
Lima Bush 1½–2 5–8 3–6 24–30 7–12 — • 60–80
Lima Pole 1½–2 4–5 6–10 30–36 7–12 — • 85–90
Garbanzo
Chick Pea 1½–2 5–8 3–4 24–30 6–12 — • 105
Scarlet Runner 1½–2 4–6 4–6 36–48 6–14 — • 60–70
Soybean 1½–2 6–8 2–3 24–30 6–14 — • 95–100
Beets ½–1 10–15 2 12–18 7–10 — • 55–65
Buck-eye Cowpea ½–1 5–8 3–4 24–30 7–10 — • 65–80
Southern Peas
Yardlong Bean ½–1 2–4 12–24 24–36 6–13 — • 65–80
Broccoli, sprouting ½ 10–15 14–18 24–30 3–10 — • 5–7**
60–80T‡‡
Brussels Sprouts ½ 10–15 12–18 24–30 3–10 — • 4–6**
80–90T‡‡
Cabbage ½ 8–10 12–20 24–30 4–10 — • 5–7**
65–95T‡‡
Cabbage, Chinese ½ 8–16 10–12 18–24 4–10 — • 4–6
80–90
Cardoon ½ 4–6 18 36 8–14 — • 8
120–150
Carrot ¼ 15–20 1–2 14–24 10–17 — • 60–80
Cauliflower ½ 8–10 18 30–36 4–10 — • • 5–7** 55–65T‡‡
Celeriac 1/8 8–12 8 24–30 9–21 — • 10–12** 90–120T‡‡
Celery 1/8 8–12 8 24–30 9–21 L 10–12** 90–120T‡‡
Celtuce—
Chard, Swiss 1 6–10 4–8 18–24 7–10 — • 55–65
Chicory—Witloof
(Belgian Endive) ¼ 8–10 4–8 18–24 5–12 L • 90–120
Chives ½ 8–10 8 10–16 8–12 — • 80–90
Chop Suey Green ½ 6 2–3 10–12 5–14 — • 42
(Shungiku)
Collards ¼ 10–12 10–15 24–30 4–10 — • 4–6** 65–85T‡‡
Corn, Sweet 2 4–6 10–14 30–36 6–10 — • 60–90
Corn Salad ½ 8–10 4–6 12–16 7–10 — • 45–55
Cress, Garden ¼ 10–12 2–3 12–16 4–10 L • 25–45
Cucumber 1 3–5 12 48–72 6–10 — • 4 55–65
Dandelion ½ 6–10 8–10 12–16 7–14 L • 70–90
Eggplant ¼–½ 8–12 18 36 7–14 — • 6–9** 75–95T‡‡
Endive ½ 4–6 9–12 12–24 5–9 — • 4–6 60–90
Fennel, Florence ½ 8–12 6 18–24 6–17 — • 120
Garlic 1 2–4 12–18 6–10 — • 90–sets
Ground Cherry ½ 6 24 36 6–13 — • 6** 90–100T‡‡
Husk Tomato
Horseradish: Div. 10–18 24 — • 6–8
Jerusalem Artichoke: Tubers 4 15–24 30–60 — • 100–105
Kale ½ 8–12 8–12 18–24 3–10 — • 4–6 55–80
Kohirabi ½ 8–12 3–4 18–24 3–10 — • 4–6 60–70

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Table 2. (continued) Suggestions for successful propagation of common vegetables from seed and vegetative propagules.

Soil temperature
Seeds Distance for seed*

Weeks to grow to
transplant size†
Between plants
per foot of row

Needs cool soil

Depth to plant

Needs light to
Between rows

Tolerates cool

Needs warm
No. days to
No. to sow

germinate

germinate

maturity‡
Days to
(inch)

(inch)

(inch)

soil

soil
Vegetable
Leeks ½–1 8–12 2–4 12–18 7–12 — • 10–12 80–90T‡‡
Lettuce: Head ¼–½ 4–8 12–14 18–24 4–10 L • 3–5 55–80
Leaf ¼–½ 8–12 4–6 12–18 4–10 L • 3–5 45–60
Muskmelon 1 3–6 12 48–72 4–8 — • 3–4 75–100
Mustard ½ 8–10 2–6 12–18 3–10 L • 40–60
Nasturtium ½–1 4–8 4–10 18–36 — • 50–60
Onion: sets 1–2 2–3 12–24 — • 95–120
plants 2–3 2–3 12–24 — • 8 95–120T‡‡
seed ½ 10–15 2–3 12–24 7–12 — • 100–165
Parsley ¼–½ 10–15 3–6 12–20 14–28 — • 8 85–90
Parsnips ½ 8–12 3–4 16–24 15–25 — • 100–120
Peas 2 6–7 2–3 18–30 6–15 — • 65–85
Peanut 1½ 2–3 6–10 30 — • 100–120
Peppers ¼ 6–8 18–24 24–36 10–20 — • 6–8 60–80T‡‡
Potato: Tuber 4 1 12 24–36 8–16 — • 90–105
Pumpkin 1–1½ 2 30 72–120 6–10 — • 70–110
Radish ½ 14–16 1–2 6–12 3–10 — • 20–50
Rutabaga ½ 4–6 8–12 18–24 3–10 — • 80–90
Salsify ½ 8–12 2–3 16–18 — • 110–150
Salsify, Black ½ 8–12 2–3 16–18 — • 110–150
Shallot: Bulb 1 2–4 12–18 — • 60–75
Spinach ½ 10–12 2–4 12–14 6–14 — • 40–65
Malabar ½ 4–6 12 12 10 — • 70
New Zealand 1½ 4–6 18 24 5–10 — • 70–80
Tampala ¼–½ 6–10 4–6 24–30 — • 21–42
Squash (summer) 1 4–6 16–24 36–60 3–12 — • 50–60
Squash (winter) 1 1–2 24–48 72–120 6–10 — • 85–120
Sunflower 1 2–3 16–24 36–48 7–12 — • 80–90
Sweet Potato: Plants 12–18 36–48 — • 120
Tomato ½ 18–36 36–60 6–14 — • 5–7 55–90T‡‡
Turnip ½ 1–3 15–18 3–10 — • 45–60
Watermelon 1 14–16 12–16 60 3–12 — • 80–100
* Seeds that require cool soil do best in a temperature range of 50˚F–65˚F; those that tolerate cool soil in a 50˚F–85˚F range; those that
require warm soil in a 65˚F–85˚F range.
† The variation of 4–6, 5–7, and 10–12 weeks allows for hotbed, greenhouse, and window sill environments, respectively, and under grow-
lamp conditions. Generally the warmer the growing conditions, the shorter the time to grow transplants. However, allow for a change
from indoor to outdoor environment.
‡ The relative length of time needed to grow a crop from seed or transplant to table use. The time will vary by variety and season.
** Transplants preferred over seed.
‡‡T = Number of days from setting out transplants; all others are from seeding.
Source: All about vegetables. Chevron Chemical Co. Garden Series by permission. Information on light from Dr. Henry M. Cathey.

4
Starting Plants Indoors for Later
Outdoor Planting
When should I start my plants?
The seeds of many vegetable and ornamental
plants can be sown directly in the ground
where the growing season is sufficiently long
(5–6 months). In shorter growing seasons, it
is beneficial to start plants indoors early and
transplant them outside once the frosty days are
over and day and night temperatures are desirable
for growth. A general guide on how early to start
plants indoors is to check the time required from
growing to transplanting size (see Table 2) and
then count back from the average date of the last
killing frost in your area. Planting seeds too early
will result in stunted or spindly plants that die or
Fig. 2. Household items such as the bottoms of egg and
produce little when transplanted outside. Plants
milk cartons are useful as containers for raising seedlings.
started at the right time and handled properly will However, since egg cartons do not hold much media,
adjust and resume growth when moved outside. they may require frequent watering to prevent drying.

Beside seeds, what else do I need to start

plants?
Your seeds will require proper containers and
growth media to sow and transplant once they
reach the seedling stage. You should also know
the germination requirements and means of
providing them—for seeds of many plants, this
means sufficient water (moisture) and optimum
temperature. Although some seeds also need
darkness to germinate, others benefit from
exposure to light (Table 3).

Containers for germination Fig. 3. Plastic pots, cellpacks, and peat discs for sowing
seeds. Peat discs are placed in water to allow absorption
You can germinate seeds in a wide variety of of water prior to sowing seeds.
containers available at retail outlets or recycled
from other uses. Container options for sowing original contents. Punch six or eight small
seeds are described below and presented in holes in the bottom to provide drainage.
Figs. 2–4. Containers should always be clean, • Wooden or plastic flats can be purchased
and if the containers have previously held soil, from garden stores or made from scrap
they should be sterilized as well (see below under lumber. A convenient size to handle is 12
sanitation). inches long by 12 inches wide by 2 inches
• Recycled plastic cottage cheese-type high. Leave cracks of about 1/8–3/16 inch
containers, the bottom part of milk between boards in the bottom.
cartons and bleach containers, aluminum • Clay or plastic flower-type pots are
foil pie pans, and used paper or plastic available at many garden, hardware, and
cups will work after being washed with variety stores. Recycled plastic pots work
soap and water to remove all traces of the well.

5
Table 3. Temperature (°F) and light requirements for the germination of selected annual, pot plants, and ornamental
herbs. The number of days required for germination under specified conditions is indicated in parentheses.

Temp. Light Dark Light/Dark

55 Larkspur White Supreme (20) Lupine Giant King Oxford Blue (20)
Myosotis Ball Early (8)
Sweet Pea Ruth Cuthbertson (15)
60 Dill (10) Gazania-Mix (8)
Cynoglossum-Firmament (5) Chives-Grass Onion (10)
Cyclamen Pure White (50) Hollyhock Powderpuffs Mix (25)
Schizanthus Ball Giant Mix (20)
65 Begonia (Tuberous-rooted double mix) (15) Centurea Blue Boy (10) Freesia White Giant (25)
Centurea Dusty Miller (10)
Coleus Red Rainbow (10) Didiscus Blue Lace (15) Morning glory Heavenly Blue (5)
Gloxinia Emperor Wilhelm (15) Fennel, sweet (10)
Perilla Burgandy (15) Gomphrena rubra (15)
Savory, Bohnenkraut (15) Mesembryanthemum criniflorum (15)
Snapdragon Orchid Rocket (10) Nasturtium Golden Giant (8)
Nemesia Fire King (5)
Pansy Lake of Thun (10)
Penstemon Sensation Mixture (10)
Phlox glamour (10)
Shamrock, True Irish (10)
Verbena Torrid (20)
Viola Blue Elf (10)
70 Ageratum Blue Mink (5) Ageratum Golden (5) Alyssum Carpet of Snow (5)
Begonia, Fibrous-rooted Scandinavian Pink Borage (8) Amaranthus Molten Fire (10)
(15) Coriander -annual (10) Aster Ball White (8)
Browalli Sapphire (15) Calendula Orange Coronet (10) Anise (10)
Browallia Blue Bells (15) Centuria-yellow (10) Balsam Scarlet (8)
Browallia Silver Bells (15) Primula Chinese Giant Fringed (25) Basil Dark Opal (10)
Calceolaria multiflora nana (15) Sage, perennial (15) Basil Lettuce Leaves (10)
Cuphea Firefly (8) Salpiglossis Emperor Mix (15) Companula-Annual Mix (20)
Exacum Tiddly-Winks (15) Tithonia Torch (20) Candytuft Giant White (8)
Feverfew Ball Double White Improved Vinca, Periwinkle-alba aculata (15) Carnation Chaband’s Giant (20)
(15) Carnation Imperial Cardinal Red (20)
Helichrysum (Everlasting) (5) Celosia Toreador (10)
Impatiens Holstii Scarlet (15) Christmas Cherry Masterpiece (20)
Kalanchoe Vulcan (10) Cineraria-vivid (10)
Naegelia Art Shades (15) Cobea-Cupand Saucer Vine, purple (15)
Nicotiana Crimson Bedder (20) Clarkia (5)
Petunia Maytime (10) Cosmos Radiance (5)
Primula Fasbender’s Red (25) Dahlia-Unwins dwarf mix (5)
Primula Malcoides White Giant (25) Dianthus Bravo (5)
Saintpaulia Blue Fairy Tale (25) Dimorphotheca Orange Improved (10)
Salvia St John’s Fire (15) Gaillardia Terra Red Giant (20)
Streptocarpus (15) Gypsophila Covent Garden (10)
Heloitrope Marine (25)
Hunnemannia (BushEscholtzia) Sunlite (15)
Kochia Bright Green (15)
Lobelia Crystal Palace (20)
Marigold Doubloon (5)
Marigold Spry (5)
Marjoram, Sweet (8)
Migonette Early White (5)
Nierembergia Purple Robe (15)
Plumbago, blue (25)
Rudbeckia Single Gloriosa Daisy (20)
Scabiosa Giant Blue (10)
Statice Iceberg (15)
Stock, Lavendar Column (10)
Thunbergia gibsoni (10)

6
Table 3. (continued) Temperature (°F) and light requirements for the germination of selected annual, pot plants, and
ornamental herbs. The number of days required for germination under specified conditions is indicated in parentheses.

Temp. Light Dark Light/Dark

70 Thyme, perennial (10)
(cont’d)
Torenia (15)
Wallflower Golden Standard (5)
Zinnia Isabellina
75 Cineraria Maritima Diamond (10) Smilax (30) Plumbago, blue (25
Thyme, perennial (10)
80 Grevillea (Australian Silk Oak) (20) Mimosa (sensitive plant) (8)
Modified from Cathey H.M. 1969. Guidelines for germination of annual, pot plants, and ornamental herb seeds. Florists’ Review 144: 26-29, 75-77. By permission of
Dr. Henry M. Cathey.

• Pots made of peat or other organic

materials are thin-walled, round or square,
and come in sizes up to 4 inches. For
starting seeds, many prefer the 1¾-inch
square type. Once you fill them with a
growth medium, you can start one plant A
in each pot. Although these peat pots are
relatively expensive, their use eliminates
transplanting prior to outdoor planting.
When grouped together in a flat, these
pots will support growing plants until
outdoor planting. The plant’s roots will
grow through the sides of the pot and you B
can ultimately place the pot outside in the
soil with the plant.
• Plug trays are flat and come in a variety
of cell sizes. Some of the advantages of
plug trays include spacing and ease of
separation of the seedlings; minimal root
damage at transplant for quick transplant
growth; and large, good quality seedlings
at transplant. Thin seedlings to one C D
seedling per cell after germination.
• Cell packs are small rectangular plastic Fig. 4. Plug tray for raising seedlings (A) and improvised
pots joined together. Each “cell” or pot “plug popper” (B) for removing seedlings from plug trays.
holds a single plant, which you remove Note that the diameter and spacing of wooden pegs on
from the pack for outdoor planting. The the plug popper (B) match the drain holes at the bottom
of the plug tray (C, D). To remove the seedlings, the plug
pack is then available for re-use after tray is placed on the pegs of the plug popper so as to
proper cleaning or sanitation. match with the drain holes (D) and the tray is then pushed
gently down to dislodge the seedlings from the plug tray.
• Peat pellets or discs are simply compressed
peat that swells when moistened to form
a cylinder approximately 1¾ inches in top of the expanded cylinder. After
diameter and 2 inches high. They are germination, thin the plants, leaving
held together by a fibrous net sleeve. only one strong plant. This option is also
Expanded, they act as a pot, growth relatively expensive but convenient.
medium, and nutrients for plant growth. • Fiber cubes are individualized plant-
Plant two or three seeds directly in the growing fiber blocks that contain fertilizer.

7
 A B

Fig. 5. (A) Sifting media

through a screen to
remove coarse-sized
particles. The media
containing finer
particles are well suited
for germinating small
C seeds such as petunia.
(B) Leveling the media
following filling in a flat.
(C) Making furrows for
sowing larger seeds.

Place seeds directly in the block after means usually available to most amateur
watering. gardeners is the kitchen oven. Heat the mix
• Preplanted trays sold at grocery and in a shallow metal tray or wooden flat. When
garden stores need to have holes punched the center of the mix reaches 140°F–150°F,
in the top, water, and the proper keep it at that temperature for 30–40 minutes.
environment to facilitate germination. This treatment should eliminate most disease
organisms, particularly those responsible for
damping-off diseases that can cause sudden heavy
Germination media
losses of plants at the seedling stage. Be aware
Prepared mixtures are available from garden stores that the soil may cause some unpleasant odors so
for starting seedlings. These mixtures contain plan for good ventilation during the sterilization
materials such as peat and vermiculite plus small process or perform sanitation outdoors.
quantities of plant nutrients. If you wish to make
In addition to soil treatment, disinfect used
your own germination medium, use a mixture
growing containers, tools, and work benches and
of two parts garden soil, one part peat or coir
then keep them clean. Use soaks or drenches
fiber, and one part medium to coarse sand. If the
(usually one or two parts laundry bleach to eight
garden soil is high in clay, use a 1-1-1 mixture
or nine parts water) to achieve a 10–20% bleach
of these materials. For many seeds, commercial
solution. New growing containers do not require
sterilized potting soil also works well.
such treatment. Do not use bleach on live plants.
For small seeds such as petunia, sift the medium
through a sieve similar to a window screen to How do I sow seeds?
remove large particles and provide a fine seedbed
for germination (Fig. 5A), then fill the media into Place the germination mix in the selected
flats and level (Fig. 5B) container. Firm with your fingers at the container
edges and corners, level even with the container
Sanitation: There is no need to sanitize the top, and press down the entire surface lightly but
germination media sold in retail outlets and firmly with the bottom of another pot of with the
garden centers. If you prepare your own back of our hand. For very small seeds, use the
germination mix, sanitation will help ensure fine-screened mix mentioned earlier for at least
against disease-causing organisms. The only the top 1/4-inch.

8
 them as with larger containers. Plant the seeds
in the center of each small container or cell. For
Plastic Bag medium and large seeds, punch a small hole in
the center of the potting mix of each container
or cell, place two or three seeds in each hole, and
cover the seeds as with larger containers. Place
small seeds on the surface.

Labeling
It is helpful to label your pots and/or trays since
many seedlings are difficult to distinguish. The
label should include the plant name (common
or botanical), cultivar, and date of sowing.
White plastic labels marked with a pencil are
recommended for their ability to withstand
sunlight and water.

Watering
After you sow the seed, wet the planting mix.
Place the containers in a pan, tray, or tub with
about 1 inch of water in the bottom. When the
water seeps upward through the container to the
surface, remove the container and set aside to
Fig. 6. To reduce evaporative losses and conserve water, drain for an hour or two. Then slip the container
the seeded flat may be placed in a plastic bag until the in a clear plastic bag and tie shut (Fig. 6). You also
seeds begin to germinate. can cover the containers with a pane of glass to
hold in moisture.
For medium and large seeds, make furrows about
Place the containers in a warm or cool place as
1 inch apart across the surface of the container
required (see discussion on temperature), but not
(Fig. 5C). Individually space the large seeds. For
in direct sunlight. Some types of seed must be
medium-sized seeds, open the seed packet, hold
placed in the dark (see discussion on lighting).
in one hand, and lightly tap the packet with your
Check each day to be sure the mix is still moist
index finger as you move down the furrow. This
and if any plants have emerged. Once you see
will distribute the seeds fairly evenly. Seedlings
growth, remove the plastic or glass covering
growing too close to each other will be crowded
and place in full natural or artificial light, but be
and spindly, so make sure to allow enough
sure the seedlings and pots do not get too hot.
growing space based on the estimated seedling
Continue to check the moisture level of the mix.
size when you plan to transplant.
If water is needed, wet small seeded plants by
Cover the seeds lightly with the screened growth seepage from below or add water to the top of the
mix. A suitable planting depth is usually equal to container for medium and large seeded plants. Be
about twice the diameter of the seed. Small seeds careful not to over-water or wash out the seeds or
like petunias or begonias need to be broadcasted plants.
over the surface of the germinating medium
rather than in rows or furrows to allow maximum Temperature
light for germination. After sowing, water the soil.
In general, most flower and vegetable seeds
If you use peat pots, pellets, strips, cell packs, germinate rapidly at 75oF–80oF. At temperatures
or other individualized plant containers, first below 60oF, germination is sometimes slow,
expand the pellets by adding water. Fill the other and damage from damping-off (fungal disease)
individual containers with planting mix and firm diseases can be a major problem. Some plants,
9
 Fig. 7. Optimum
Thermostat temperature
for germination
can be achieved
by placing
Hotbed seeded trays on
thermostatically
controlled electric
Thermostat foam pads, or
hotbeds (left).
The bottom heat
from the hot bed
facilitates uniform
germination
Hotbed (right).

however, germinate better at 50oF–65oF. See Tables growth.

1 and 2 for favorable germination temperatures
of a variety of garden plants. Be sure to check A fluorescent fixture with a 40-watt cool, warm
the directions on the seed packet if you have white, or grow-type tube provides a good source
purchased the seeds. of light. Suspend about 10–12 inches above
small plants for 14–16 hours per day. Timing
Take advantage of the temperature variations devices (time clocks) available at hardware stores
within your home to give the right temperature will allow you to turn the lights on and off
conditions for seed germination. You can more automatically. Incandescent lights can be used
precisely raise the temperature of the germinating along with fluorescent lights, but since these
medium by placing the containers on top of generate heat, tender seedlings may get stressed
thermostatically-controlled heating cables/mats if placed too close. Accordingly, make sure that
(Fig. 7). incandescent lights are 18 inches above the
canopy level.
Light
How do I transplant seedlings?
Light holds back the germination of some seed,
whereas other seeds require light for germination. If you did not place seed in individualized
Many will germinate in either light or dark. Of containers, you will need to transplant them to
the common garden vegetable crops, only a few give greater growing space and allow proper plant
are affected significantly by light. Table 3 shows development. Figs. 8A–E illustrate the process of
the light requirements for a number of garden transplanting seedlings.
plants to germinate.
Seedlings can be transplanted once they
After germinating from seeds, plants require develop their first true leaves. Do not confuse
adequate lighting for good growth. Placing the cotyledons (sometimes called seed leaves)
containers near a well-lighted window through with true leaves, which have quite a different
the day often is adequate. Since the plants will appearance (Fig. 9). Failure to transplant in a
bend toward the light from the window, turn the timely manner may result in undesirable plant
containers daily to prevent permanent bending in characteristics such as spindly or overdeveloped
the stems and allow sturdier plants to develop. If plants that may not grow properly.
the plants’ stems become elongated and “stringy,”
consider adding artificial light as described below. You can purchase media or mixes for growing
seedlings (or use commercial potting soil) that
If a place with good natural light is unavailable, are similar to those used for germinating seeds
provide artificial light. Even where you find good but with more plant nutrients. You can prepare
natural light, supplementing it with artificial light your own mix like that described for seedlings
will extend the day length and improve plant following the same precautions for sanitation.

10
 CL

A
TL

Fig. 9. Bean seedling showing cotyledonary (CL) and true

leaves (TL).

Fill growing containers as described for

germinating seeds. In flats, mark rows about 2
inches apart. Using a sharpened pencil, make
holes about 2 inches apart along the row for
individual plants.

Several approaches can help you extract plants

D from their germinating containers. First, water the
seedlings. If they were germinated in a very loose
mix, you usually can lift them out gently with the
tip of a pencil or with a spoon with little damage
to roots. However, if the mix contains sand and
garden soil, it will be more compact. In this case,
you can cut the mix in a flat into sections as if you
were cutting a cake. Lift out a section at a time. If
E you used pots, remove the entire contents at once.

Gently break up each section by separating the

Fig. 8. Transplanting seedlings from flats. (A) Plants plant roots and removing one plant at a time.
ready for transplanting. (B) Separating seedlings grown Where a heavy intertwining root mass is present,
in a loose mix. (C) Seedlings separated and ready for
place the sections in water in a clean bucket and
transplanting. (D) Punching a hole in the medium
(dibbling) for placing seedlings. (E) Firming the planting gently agitate the mass. This action will wash
medium around the roots of the transplant. away the soil, allowing you to separate the plants

11
with little damage to the roots. Place the plants weak plants. If using natural light, be sure it is
on moist newspaper while transplanting to bright throughout the day. Artificial lighting can
prevent damage to the roots from drying. Discard benefit plants by supplementing natural light
spindly or poorly developed plants. intensity and day length. For most young plants,
14–16 hours of light daily is adequate. Keep the
Hold each separated plant carefully by the top or lights 10–12 inches above the plants.
the leaves and gently tuck the roots in the holes
previously prepared in the flats or pots. However, Temperature
be careful not to use a hole that is too shallow so
that the roots form a “U” going down into the soil In addition to providing temperatures optimum
and back out. Attempt to keep the roots pointed for germination, the information in Table 2
downward. Plant the seedlings slightly deeper than provides growing temperatures for various plants.
they were in the germinating containers. Place soil Most plants grow best between 60oF and 80oF.
or potting mix around each plant as you set it in Maintain daytime temperatures between 70oF and
place and gently firm the soil or mix around the 80oF and nighttime temperatures between 60oF
stem and roots with your fingers. and 70oF. Avoid exposing the plants to cold drafts.

After transplanting, water the plants by seepage Watering

from below or from the top using a fine spray,
taking care to avoid wash out or flatten the plants At each watering, apply enough water to wet the
with the water. entire volume of growing mix to have some drain
through the bottom. Apply water early enough
For a few days after transplanting, give plants in the day so plant leaves dry before nightfall.
special care to help them overcome transplanting This helps prevent damping-off diseases. Apply
shock. Covering the plants with a plastic bag water carefully to avoid washing out the plants
to maintain high humidity will help prevent or splashing soil or potting mix on the leaves.
wilting. Keep plants away from drafts or high Keep the soil slightly moist to the touch but not
temperatures if in open flats and do not place in waterlogged.
direct sun if covered with plastic.
Fertilizer
Thinning
If your plants have a pale green or otherwise
Thinning refers to the removal of all but the discolored look, apply a water-soluble fertilizer
most vigorous, healthy plant in each container or that is generally used for houseplants at half
cell. Thinning provides the best opportunity for strength. Seedlings may need fertilizer only once
seedling growth because it eliminates competition or twice before you plant them outdoors.
from the neighboring seedlings for light, water,
and nutrients. Thinning also reduces the How do I acclimatize plants to outdoor
incidence of diseases such as damping off. conditions?
How should I take care of transplants? For best results, do not abruptly transfer seedlings
from indoors to the uncertain outdoor climate.
After transplanting, or with plants of the same Gradually acclimatize or toughen plants for
age started in individualized containers, keep about 2 weeks before planting them in your
plants growing at a steady, rapid rate to be in garden. Slowing down their rate of growth will
good condition for outdoor planting. Transplants prepare them to withstand conditions such as
need good lighting, proper temperature, water, cold, drying winds, water shortage, and high
and mineral nutrients to grow well. temperatures.

Light You can harden plants by placing them outdoors

in the daytime for one to two hours in partial
Adequate light helps ensure good plant shade. Over a period of a few days, gradually
development. Poor lighting results in spindly, increase the time outdoors and move them
12
 How can I achieve successful outdoor
planting?
Prepare the planting area with a rototiller or by
spading. Most areas need a balanced commercial
fertilizer at 2 pounds of 16% nitrogen, 16%
phosphorus, and 16% potassium (labeled as 16-16-
16) or 3 pounds of a 10-10-10 per 100 square feet.
A It may save money in the long run to have your
soil tested to determine what soil nutrients to add.
Ask your county Extension office where such tests
can be done or purchase your own soil testing kit
at a gardening store.

Rake to smooth the surface, incorporate fertilizer,

and remove clods and rocks. Mark rows and
locations for individual plants and then dig holes
and fill with water. When the water soaks into
B the soil, you are ready to plant. This ensures a
ready supply of soil moisture to newly planted
seedlings.

If your plants are in flats, cut the mix into

cubes as if cutting cake, then lift the plants out
individually. If you used individual plastic or
clay pots, place one hand on top of the pot with
your fingers around the plant. Tip the pot upside
down and tap the edge of the pot on a table edge
or another hard surface. The contents of the pot
should fall out intact in your hand.

When setting the plants in your garden soil, use

the same procedures and precautions about root
placement as described for indoor transplanting.
C
Set plants slightly deeper in the soil than they
were previously growing (Fig. 10A) and firm the
Fig. 10. (A) Field planting of seedling removed from soil around the roots (Fig. 10B). You can place
a plug tray. (B) Firming the soil about the roots of a containers such as peat pots, expanded pellets,
transplant. (C) Depression around the transplant (circled and cubes directly in the garden soil. Be sure to
area) for retaining water close to the transplant.
plant these containers deep enough to cover the
into direct sunlight. Since plants grown indoors upper edges and surfaces with soil. If exposed,
have no resistance to UV radiation, they need these surfaces sometimes act as a wick, resulting
to acclimate slowly to sunlight or they will get in rapid loss of moisture from around the plant’s
“burned” upon exposure. One or two days before roots.
planting in your garden, leave plants outside
After the plant is set, leave a slight dish-shaped
during the night on the sidewalk or steps but not
depression around the stem (Fig. 10C). Fill this
directly on the ground. During the hardening
with water. You often can give transplants a boost
period, reduce water application but do not allow
by adding a starter fertilizer after setting them
them to wilt. Plants will dry more quickly when
in the soil. Commercial mixes for this purpose
exposed to outdoor conditions.
are available, or you can make your own by
dissolving 1/2 pound of a 5-10-5 commercial

13
 Cold frames and hotbeds
Instead of starting plants indoors, you can start
them in outdoor plant-growing structures called
cold frames and hotbeds that may be purchased
or home-made. These structures will harden
plants before transplanting as well start seedlings.
A cold frame is a box-like structure made with
a glass or transparent plastic top that traps heat
from the sun. The frame is placed in a sunny,
protected location on well-drained soil or 1–2
inches of sand. On very warm days, raise the glass
cover slightly to prevent excess heat build-up. On
cold nights, a blanket covering may be required
to prevent freezing.

The addition of some form of internal heat to

the cold frame converts it into a hotbed and thus
improves its utility and extends its period of use.
While manure or other heat-producing materials
can provide a heat source, a thermostatically
Fig. 11. Improvised homemade hotcap. To make one, controlled heating cable is more precise.
cut the bottom of a milk container and cover the
transplanted seedling with it. This can protect seedlings
when night temperatures drop. Planting Seeds Outdoors
fertilizer in 4 gallons of water. After setting the How do I plan and prepare the soil for
plants, pour 1 cup of this solution in the dish- outdoor planting?
shaped depression around each plant instead of
using plain water. Before you plant, determine the space required for
each crop, the most desirable location for each,
Choose a cloudy day for transplanting or wait and the total area required. If the planting area
until evening. Avoid windy or very cold days. is in sod, begin soil preparation in the fall before
The more moderate the conditions, the better planting.
the seedlings’ survival. If conditions on the day
following transplanting are very hot or windy, Spade or till the area about 8 inches deep and
protect seedlings by pushing shingles into the soil prepare as described earlier for transplants,
on the sunny or windy side of each plant. with perhaps a bit more effort to obtain a good,
smooth surface free of clods and refuse.
You can plant some plants (such as squash and
melons) outdoors 1 or 2 weeks earlier by covering Do not begin soil preparation until the soil is dry
them with waxed paper “‘hotcaps.” Use plastic enough to work properly or it will later become
tunnels supported by wire frames to cover entire baked and unmanageable. Take a handful of soil
rows. Hotcaps and plastic tunnels trap heat from and squeeze it into a ball. If the ball falls apart
the soil to protect plants against light frosts. On under slight pressure, the soil is dry enough.
warm days, check temperatures inside the hotcaps If it remains in a wet ball, wait for a few days.
to be sure they are not too high. Cut venting When the soil is prepared, mark the rows or other
slots on the side away from the sun to reduce this planting locations.
problem. After you remove the bottom, gallon
plastic jugs also work well as hotcaps (Fig. 11); Where soil conditions such as drainage are not
venting is not a problem when you remove the adequate for raising a successful garden, raised
cap. beds can be useful. A detailed method for the

14
 Fig. 12. Direct sowing
of seeds in the field.
A B (A) Opening straight
furrows; (B) Spacing
seeds in furrows; (C)
Covering seeds with
soil; (D) Planting a hill
of seeds.

C D

preparation of raised beds is outlined in Raised The deeper you dig in the soil, the cooler it will
Bed Gardening (FS 270), available from Oregon be. Figs. 12A–D show how to open furrows and
State University Extension. sow seeds in a garden.

Timing If the small size of the seed (such as petunias and

carrots) makes it difficult to achieve uniformity
Proper timing is important for good crop in sowing, pelleted or taped seeds (see below) are
production. Do not rush the season by planting useful. Some seeds such as tomato are known for
seeds sensitive to cool soil too early. Similarly, their erratic germination. When sown directly in
do not attempt to plant heat-sensitive seed in the ground, soil temperature affects germination
midsummer. Consult Table 2 to help determine and seedling emergence. For example, cooler
timing. temperatures can retard the germination of
tomatoes and high temperatures can force lettuce
Planting/sowing seeds to become dormant.

Follow the same guide for planting depth and Erratic and delayed germination results in poor
sowing as for planting seeds indoors. Just as you plant emergence and delayed growth, resulting
should start very small seeds indoors, remember in slow maturity. Uniformity in germination
all seeds planted outdoors require some soil and crop stand can be achieved by using primed
covering to maintain sufficient moisture for or pre-germinated seeds (see below), which also
germination. Plant seeds very shallowly when work well in areas with shorter growing seasons.
they require light for germination. Enough light
will penetrate the soil to stimulate germination. Pelleted seed and seed tape. Pelleting involves
For early plantings of seeds sensitive to cool soil, coating seeds with materials such as clay to
plant them more shallowly than later plantings. enhance uniformity in seed size and shape. Such
15
 sown. Because this process is fairly complex, it is
advisable for a home gardener to buy rather than
prepare primed seeds.

In contrast to conventional seeds, primed or

pre-germinated seed results in faster germination
and a more uniform crop stand. In temperate
areas, low soil temperatures during sowing may
inhibit or cause erratic germination. Low soil
temperatures often result in seed mortality upon
A initial germination or during seedling emergence.
Whatever the cause, the consequence is poor crop
stand, immature produce at harvest, and reduced
yields.

Primed seeds perform well even in areas with

high soil temperatures. Germination of seeds such
as lettuce is inhibited by high soil-temperatures
(thermodormancy). However, primed or pre-
germinated lettuce seeds are immune to high-
temperature-induced dormancy that inhibits
germination.

For a home gardener, pre-germinated seeds can be

B an alternative to primed seeds with comparable
advantages. You can germinate seeds at home
Fig. 13. (A) Seed tape and discs and (B) seedlings
growing from seeds from a seed tape (Courtesy Park
in between folds of moist paper towels. When
Seeds; www.parkscs.com). Seed tapes are convenient to the radicals (roots) begin to emerge, sow the
establish proper plant-to-plant spacing. germinated seeds in the field. Pre-germinated
seeds cannot be dried or stored. Since their
seeds are easy to sow by mechanical seeders and
tender radicals are easily damaged, care must be
are available from many seed companies.
taken while sowing such seeds. To avoid damage,
For some crops sown directly in the garden, seed suspend the pre-germinated seeds in a gel. On
tapes can be useful (Figs. 13A, B). You can either home scale, prepare a gel by stirring cornstarch
purchase commercial seed tape or make it using into boiling water to achieve a consistency that
strips of newspaper or paper towels. Simply glue supports suspension of pre-germinated seeds. Let
the seeds onto the paper strips/rolls using a the cornstarch cool to room temperature before
water-based adhesive or cornstarch at the spacing suspending the seeds in it. Note that the gel-like
specified for the crop, place in furrows at the consistency develops upon cooling. Pour the gel
proper depth, and cover with media. into a small plastic bag and suspend the pre-
germinated seeds in it. Make a small hole in the
Primed and pre-germinated seeds. Priming is a bag and extrude the gel along with the seeds into
seed treatment that facilitates rapid and uniform prepared furrows. This technique is known as
germination. Priming is accomplished by allowing “fluid drilling.”
seeds to absorb (imbibe) a limited amount of
water to trigger the initial physiological processes Watering and moisture control
associated with germination. Primed seeds do
not push their radicals out. This is because they After covering seeds to the proper depth, firm the
absorb water from high osmotic solutions such soil by tamping lightly with the back of a hoe
as polyethylene glycol. Following priming, the and sprinkle with a fine mist from a garden hose
seeds need to be dried and stored until they are until the soil is moist. Keep the soil moist to the

16
 origin, highly bred, or selected stock for desirable
horticultural qualities, seeds grown from existing
plants may differ (be either inferior or superior)
from the parent plant. Although attempting to
grow perennials and woody shrubs and trees from
seed can be more difficult than growing most
annuals, it can also be rewarding.

How do I prepare seeds of perennial

plants?
One or more types of dormancy frequently
affect seed from perennials and woody plants,
Fig. 14. Following the emergence of seedlings in the field, so the following treatments individually or
overcrowded seedlings can be thinned out taking into in combination may be required to promote
account the plant-to-plant spacing recommended for the germination.
crop. Remove the less vigorous, spindly, and diseased
seedlings.
Stratification
Stratification is a seed treatment used to overcome
touch but not waterlogged. Seeds planted deeply
some kinds of chemical dormancy. To stratify
will require less frequent watering than shallowly
seeds, first soak them overnight in water. Seeds
planted seeds. Those planted close to the surface
with hard seedcoats may also require scarification
may need light sprinkling several times daily until
(see below). For woody plants, following
seeds germinate. If the soil is allowed to dry, it
absorption of water (imbibition), decant water,
may crust and interfere with seedling emergence.
soak seeds in laundry bleach (diluted tenfold) for
To prevent crusting, spread a shallow mulch of
sawdust, vermiculite, or bark dust over the rows.

Thinning
While thinning plants requires time and work,
it is usually preferable to plant a few more seeds
than necessary to ensure an adequate stand
in case of adverse conditions and poor seed
germination. Thinning crowded plants allows
full development of the remaining seedlings (Fig.
14). Final spacing depends upon the crop. Begin
thinning as soon as germination is complete.
Do not thin all at once, but go over the rows
several times. If you carefully remove the first
plants thinned out, you can transplant them
to other areas. Consult Table 2 or seed packets
for directions on plant-to-plant spacing before
thinning.

Starting Perennials and Woody Fig. 15. Seeds ready for the initiation of stratification
treatment. Seeds are first allowed to absorb water
Plants from Seed overnight, placed in a plastic bag (see text for other
methods), and then held at chilling temperatures for a
Unlike annuals, perennials and woody plants specified period to overcome dormancy. Most temperate
are long-lived, and their seeds sometimes require plant seeds, such as apple and pear, require stratification
different treatments to facilitate germination. (moist chilling) treatment to overcome dormancy. See
If perennials or woody plants are of hybrid Table 4 for stratification requirements for various seeds.

17
Table 4. Stratification temperature and duration required for overcoming dormancy in selected woody plant seeds. Following
imbibition of water, the seeds are placed in moist sand or peat and stored at specified temperatures to facilitate germination.
Scarification prior to the initiation of stratification treatment may be required to help some seeds absorb water. Stratified
seeds germinate readily upon planting in the spring. Note that the shaded areas correspond to the days required at specified
temperatures (°F, indicated within shaded areas) to overcome dormancy.

Stratification Period (days)

Seed 15 30 40 45 60 70 85 90 120 150 170 180 Pre-stratification treatment
Almond 41
American Plum 41 Stratification at 60–70°F for 35 d
Apple 32–50
Apricot 41
Aralia 35–40 Acid scarification for 30–40 min
Arbutus menziesii 35–40
Aronia arbutifolia 41
Aruncus dioicus 40
Asimina triloba* 40
Barberry 32–41
Bergenia cordifolia 41
Birch, Arborvitae 32–50
Black Quercus 32–35
Brodiaea spp 37
Calocedrus decurrens 32–40
Celastrus 40
Celtis (Hackberry) 40
Ceracis spp. (Red bud) 35–40 Acid scarification for 30–60 min
Chaenomeles spp.
40
(Flowering quince)
Chamaecyparis spp. 40
Cherry 35–45
Chestnut (American) 41
Clematis 40
Cornus spp. (Dogwood) 40
Cotoneaster 40 Acid scarification for 90 min
Crataegus
40 Acid scarification for 60–120 min
(English Hawthorn)
Cupresses spp. 35–40
Dicentra spp. 41
Dictamnus albus (Gas plant) 32–40
Dogwood 70–85
Elaegnus (Russian Olive) 40
Elderberry 40 Acid scarification for 15–30 min
Elm 41
Euonymus 32–50
Fagus spp. (Beech)* 40
Filbert 41
Fir 41
Helleborus lividus** 37 Warm stratification 70˚F (60–70 days)
Heteromeles arbutifolia (Toyon) 37–41
Hickory 32–45
Holly 68–86
Honey Locust 36 Acid scarification for 60 min
Horse-Chestnut 41
Juinperus spp. 40 Acid scarification for 30 min
Lilac 41
Magnolia 40 Remove the inhibitory red pulp
Maple 41

18
Table 4. Stratification temperature and duration required for overcoming dormancy in selected woody plant seeds. Following
imbibition of water, the seeds are placed in moist sand or peat and stored at specified temperatures to facilitate germination.
Scarification prior to the initiation of stratification treatment may be required to help some seeds absorb water. Stratified
seeds germinate readily upon planting in the spring. Note that the shaded areas correspond to the days required at specified
temperatures (°F, indicated within shaded areas) to overcome dormancy.

Stratification Period (days)

Seed 15 30 40 45 60 70 85 90 120 150 170 180 Pre-stratification treatment
Mountain ash 41–50
Myrica spp. (Bayberry) 40 Remove the wax coating
Myrobalan Plum 41
Parthenocissus spp
40
(Virginia creeper)
Peach 41
Pear 32–40
Pieca spp. (Spruce) 40
Pine 32–40 For species with embryo dormancy
Pistacia chinensis 40–50 Soak seeds in water to remove pulp
Plum 41
Sand Cherry 41
Saskatoon berry* 36 Acid scarification for 15–30 min
Spruce 41
Sumac 40 Acid scarification for 1–6 hours
Sweet Cherry 40 Warm stratification at 70˚F for 20 days
Taxus spp. (Yew) 41 Stratification at 68˚F for 90 days
Tilia spp. (Linden) 35 Remove pericarp mechanically
Tsuga spp. (Hemlock) 40
Ulmus spp. (Elm) 40 Suitable for fall-ripening seeds
Walnut 34–41
*Recalcitrant seeds; drying reduces seed viability; **May take up to 2 years to germinate

Source: Larsen F.E., Schekel K.A. 2001. Seed propagation. Pacific Northwest Extension Publications.
Dirr M.A., Heuser C.W. Jr. 1987. The reference manual of woody plant propagation: From seed to tissue culture. Varsity Press, Inc., Georgia.
Hartmann H.T., Kester D.E., Davies F., Geneve R. 2001. Plant propagation: Principles and practices (7th Edition). Prentice-Hall, New York.

10–20 minutes to achieve surface disinfection, You can also stratify the seeds of temperate plants
and then wash seeds free of bleach. in a refrigerator or outdoors during cold winter
months. To accomplish this, sow seeds in a 4-inch
The next step is to place seeds in moist sand, peat, pot filled with a moist media such as perlite or
or a plastic bag (Fig. 15) and hold them at a cold peat moss. Place the pot in a gallon-size Ziploc
temperature. The seeds of most temperate plants bag, label the bag with the date of removal,
require temperatures between 32°F and 50°F, and store in a refrigerator or place outdoors for
called “moist chilling.” Most seeds that require the required number of days to complete the
stratification should be kept between 30°F and stratification requirement.
45°F, but again, the conditions are individual
according to the seed. Below freezing can cause Scarification
seed death from the formation of ice crystals.
Scarification is aimed at altering the covering
The time of treatment varies with the type of of the seeds, called a seedcoat, to admit air and
seed, ranging from 1 to 6 months (Table 4). water into the seed to initiate germination. Many
Some seeds require storage for varying periods perennials and woody plant seeds cannot absorb
at warm temperatures (50oF–80oF), while others water or have seedcoats that exclude oxygen
need warm, moist temperatures followed by and other gases from the inner parts of the seed;
cool, moist storage. You often can obtain these scarification treatment for these seeds can speed
same conditions naturally by the proper timing germination. Scarification methods include
of outdoor planting: summer planting provides mechanical filing, abrasion with sandpaper,
warm, moist conditions, while fall planting hot/boiling water, or chemical erosion with
provides cool, moist conditions. concentrated sulfuric acid (Fig. 16), each of which
19
 Planting/sowing
Once you treat seeds to break dormancy, you can
grow your woody plant seeds as described for
A vegetables and herbaceous ornamentals. Either
start them indoors for later transplanting or plant
them directly outdoors as directed on the label.
See Table 4 for suggestions on handling selected
woody plant seeds.

References
C
B This publication provides information about seed
propagation at an introductory level suitable
for a home gardener. Those who are interested
in knowing more about propagating plants are
encouraged to refer to the following publications:
Bienz D.R. 1980. The why and how of home
horticulture. W.H. Freeman and Company, New
York.
Dirr M.A. and C.W. Heuser Jr. 1987. The reference
manual of woody plant propagation: From seed to
tissue culture. Varsity Press, Inc., Athens, GA.
Hartmann H.T., D.E. Kester, F. Davies, and R.
Geneve. 2001. Plant propagation: Principles and
Fig. 16. Overcoming dormancy imposed by hard seedcoat practices (7th Edition). Prentice-Hall, New York.
in (A) black locust, (B) Kentucky coffee, and (C) honey
locust seeds. While black locust seeds were treated with Maynard D.N. and G.J. Hochmuth. 1997. Knott’s
concentrated sulfuric acid, the Kentucky coffee seeds handbook for vegetable growers. John Wiley and
were scarified by cutting through the seedcoat with a Sons Inc., New York.
file. Hot water was used to scarify the honey locust seeds.
Note that untreated seeds failed to absorb water in all Toogood A. 1999. Plant Propagation: The fully
cases, while scarified seeds readily absorbed water and illustrated plant-by-plant manual of practical
germinated.
techniques. American Horticultural Society. DK
should be conducted carefully to avoid seed Publishing, Inc., New York.
damage. Suggested methods for individual seeds
may be found on seed packets or in reference
books.

Mechanical scarification involves selecting a place

on the seed away from the embryo and cutting
through the seedcoat until you begin to see
cotyledons. You can scarify some seeds by pouring
hot/boiling water on them within a container,
making sure not to boil the seeds themselves.
Let the seeds sit in the water overnight and
then decant. If you use acid for scarification, the
seeds must be washed to avoid damage to the
developing seedling and injury to the applicator.

20
Pacific Northwest Extension publications are produced cooperatively by the three Pacific Northwest land-grant universities: Washington State
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and status as a Vietnam-era or disabled veteran. Washington State University Extension, The Oregon State University Extension Service, and
University of Idaho Extension are Equal Opportunity Employers. Evidence of noncompliance may be reported through your local Extension
office. Trade names have been used to simplify information; no endorsement is intended. Revised February 2009. $2.50

PNW170