Fuel from 'Burning Water'

provided by The Reclamation Project

*** Working Plans ***
01/09/02

UltimateMallStore Disclaimer: We have indication these plans work when built,

but every person is unique this depends on your ability to make it
work,also we are not responsible for any accidents or injuries,etc so
please be careful ,if you choose to try it, use common sense and start
SMALL, like a lawnmower engine, please report any successes you
might have.

The following file was recieved by Dave the Gravman via FAX, he kindly sent it
to me, thanks Dave!

Convert your engine to burn hydrogen & oxygen

Make vapor from water on demand & pollution-free
Convert your vehicle to a ZPV: Zero Pollution Vehicle
Freedom from Gasoline
Simple and inexpensive conversion
On Demand vapor rate via throttle
Easy do it yourself public domain plans
Help clean the air while you save money

These plans can be used to run your car, truck, RV, motorcycle, airplane, etc.
from tap water.

Are you fed up with ga$oline price$ and THE POLLUTION?

Would you like to do something about it besides complain and wait?

Are you still CHOKING on the whole idea of fossil fuel CON$UMPTION?
WHY?

Wouldn't you like to free yourself from centrally-controlled or imported fuel?

Do you have a 2nd vehicle you don't use every day?

Now there is something we can actually do about it, as individuals willing to help
clean the environment, and travel at lower cost to both you and your
environment. Do-it-yourself plans allow the individual (that's you and me, folks)
to make a difference.

This is the easiest and lowest cost way to convert your car to run on (relatively)
free energy. Now with existing technology, anyone can stand up and make a
difference by reducing the local automotive pollution, eliminate ga$oline
expen$e$, help restore our atmosphere, and breathe a little easier. You will be
making use of your entire existing system, except the fuel tank and catalytic
converter.

THE PLAN:

Know the Truth and set yourself FREE. Set a good example for the World you
choose to create. Exercise your own Free Will. Live cleaner and healthier.

Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle (internal
combustion) engine on TAP WATER, using off-the-shelf components. This is
simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous Hydrogen and
Oxygen, and then burn these vapours in the engine, instead of that $melly,
$tinky, expen$ive 'other $tuff.

This 'minisystem' runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system,
and it plugs into your carburetor with simple off-the-shelf fittings. You will be
installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a reaction chamber, a hi-
pressure carb/FI fitting, and 3 gauges (see Figure 1), and then hooking into your
existing carb/FI.

The SIMPLICITY comes from being an 'on-demand' system requiring no fancy

storage, or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle and you electrically
create more vapour for immediate consumption, on demand; Lo - Hi Flow Rate
as needed from idle - max power. The only real change is that you are using tap
water as fuel, instead of the traditional petroleum-based fuel. Given, a choice,
which way would you choose?

FAQs
Q: Does it really work?

A: Yes; this is well-established technology dating back to stainless steel. But be

sure to follow these instructions using the proper mechanical and electrical
assembly techniques, as it incorporates the best qualities of several techniques.

Q: How does it qualify as 'free energy'?

A: If you're paying someone for the water you use, then it is not strictly 'free'.
But, the alternative is to keep buying into the expen$ive ga$oline and re$ultant
hydrocarbon pollution.

Q: ls it Safe?

A: Technically, it is safer than running on fossil fuel, because you are no longer
choking on your own emissions (health-wise), but in general it is practically as
safe as your current gasoline arrangement. You will be installing a few simple
safety devices, using current automotive standards.

Q: What kind of performance can I expect?

A: Properly adjusted, your modified vapour-only fuel system will run cooler, and
at a modestly higher power level. The mileage performance expected from this
design ranges from 50-300 mpg, depending on your adjusting skills.

Q: Can I do the modification myself?

A: Why not? If you know someone with basic mechanical and/or electrical skills,
you can even delegate some of the construction. If you are using a fuel-injected
engine, you may have to get a mechanic's opinion.

0: What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?

A: It will be producing H20 steam and unburnt 02, hence it will be cleaning the
environment, rather than dumping nauseous toxins into it. Plus you will be
helping to save our dwindling supply of atmospheric oxygen. Any excess vapour
in the reaction becomes either steam or oxygen. You can also expect to be
receiving more than casual interest from those around you.

Q: Is this really a steam engine?

A: No; really. Exceedingly hi temp & pressure are not used. This is strictly an
internal combustion engine (burning orthohydrogen) with residual steam in the
exhaust as a by product.

Gasoline as a fuel is NOT NECESSARY; it is optional.

1. ORIGIN - In the 19th century, the gasoline portion of the refining process, was
first considered to be a 'waste' product of extracting the purified crude
oil. Later on, it was discovered that it could be $old as fuel, instead of
just dumping it back in the hole as had been the tradition.

2. CONSUMPTION RATE - The gasoline consumption rate for every mass-

produced car has been carefully 'designed in' as a market asset. As an
indication, simply observe how quickly and closely ALL the local
different gas stations adjust their prices. Even the hybrid cars which use
electric motors still consume a designed amount of gasoline, and their
price tags are prohibitively high.
3. EFFICIENCY - There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but there
is even more energy in water. The DOE has quoted about 40%, 50 it is
probably much more than that. Most people are unaware that 'internal
combustion' is DEFINED as: a thermo-vapour process; as in 'no liquid
in the reaction'; AND most of the gasoline in a standard internal
combustion engine, is ACTUALLY CONSUMED cooked and finally
broken down) IN THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER, which happens
AFTER the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly, this means
that most of the fuel we use in this way, is used only to cool down the
combustion process, rather than using a cleaner and more efficient
means to do so.
4. ADDITIVES - Also sadly, we are told by 'authorities' that some of the many
gasoline additives are in the mix to increase performance; but because of
its current overly-complex molecular structure, the real built-in function
of the gasoline formula is to slow down the combustion so that only so
much is actually consumed in the cylinder, and the liquid balance goes
to the catalytic converter. As a further insult, the additives are also there
to clog and prevent the use of the Pogue-style carburetors, designed to
get 200-300 mpg.
5. PROFIT - Is the Pope catholic? does the bear poop in the woods? Of course
the oil companies are making a huge profit. It is by design. What do you
suppose the Gulf War was about? Just look at where the crude oil comes
from and where the money is flowing. Rest assured that the oil
companies do NOT want you to know how to make use of this water-fuel
technology. They have been making money on our ignorance, dis-
empowerment, and willingness to follow along in a mindless 'comfort-
zone' of toxic waste, suppression, resentment, and apathy: WHO
NEEDS IT?
Let us proceed to set a good example and do it right, do it clean.
Exceedingly simple
Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain the liquid level in the
chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-SA electrical pulse
which breaks 2(H20) --- ( 2H2 + 02 ).
When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key and go. You step on
the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and thus more vapour
to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapour on demand.
You set the idle - max flow rate to get the most efficient use of power, and you're
off to the races.
In the BIG picture, your Free Energy is coming from the tap water, in an open
system, as the latent energy in the water is enough to power the engine,
and hence drive the alternator and whatever belt-driven accessories;
AND the alternator is efficient enough to run the various electrical loads
(10-20 amps), including the additional low current to run this vapour
reaction. No extra batteries are required.
OVERVIEW - Here is the suggested sequence of steps:
1. Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp
range (gasoline), for comparison.
2. Build & test the controller to verify the correct pulse output.
3. Build the reaction chamber & test it w. the controller (i.e pressure out).
4. Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.
5. Run engine & Adjust the control circuit as necessary for best performance.
6. Install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated with
ceramic.
7. Coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter OR let it
rust out and replace the whole dang thang with stainless steel pipe
sections.
YOU WILL NEED:

- plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.

- control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.
- reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
- 3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.- carb/FI vapor-pressure
fitting kit. - pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.
- stainless steel valves.
- copper mesh junction.
- ceramic surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.
- stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.

BASIC TOOLS

- drill, screwdriver and pliers

- hole cutter
- wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers
- DVM and oscilloscope.

REACTION CHAMBER
Construct as shown in Figure 2. Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe with a
threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the
other.
Make sure to drill-and-epoxy or tap threads through the PVC components for all
fittings. Set and control the water level in the chamber so that it well
submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some headroom to build up the
hydrogen/oxygen vapour pressure.
Use stainless steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise use a protective coating;
use insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal, or
otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold
pressure.
The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to
hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks,
no problems. Make sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2
stainless steel pipes. The referenced literature suggests that the closer to
 1mm you get, the better. You WILL want to get your chamber level
sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on.
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and
solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for
joining the pipes to the screw cap.

This epoxy must be water-proof and be capable of holding metal to plastic under
pressure.

You WILL want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy
the cap on.
CONTROL CIRCUIT

Figure 3
Figures 3 & 4 show a simple circuit to control and drive this mini-system. You
are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes like
a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope. The premise
given by the literature is:
The faster you want do go down the road, the 'fatter' you make the pulses going
into the reaction chamber. Duty cycle will vary with the throttle in the
vicinity of 90%Mark 10%Space (Off/On).

NOTE : Figures 4 and 5 have been revised, click to see the large version
There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there are
many ways to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few.
Figure 4 gives the NE555-circuit approach from the referenced patent.
The output switching transistor must be rated for
1-5 amps @ I2VDC (in saturation).
Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid or
mechanic, and go get all the circuit elements from your local electronics
store, such as Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us, including the circuit board,
IC sockets, and enclosure/box.
DigiKey has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no
minimum order crap. Be sure to use a circuit board with a built-in
ground plane, and to accommodate room for mounting 2 or 3 of the
gauges. Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment will
require running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.
You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins
and through-hole discrete components having wire leads. Also make
sure to get spec sheets on any IC you use. More details of the best
circuits to use will be announced pending prototype testing. You WILL
want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the
cap on.
THROTTLE CONTROL
If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the signal
from the sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is
input to the circuit as the primary control (i.e. throttle level pulse width
= vapour rate).
If you don't have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary POT
(variable resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at the gas
pedal or throttle cable running to the carb or Fl. If you make the
attachment at the cart/Fl, be sure to use a POT that can handle the
engine temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one rated for
long life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy
and stationary that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.
CONTROL RANGE
The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapour rate, i.e. pulse-
width (duty). The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow the
throttle signal voltage, say 1-4 Volt swing, to drive the VAPOR RATE.
You will be using this voltage swing to generate a 10% ON 'square'
pulse.
The patent implies using a 'resonant' pulse in the 10-250 KHz frequency range;
but it is not explicitly stated so. In this circuit, you will simply tune to
whatever frequency makes the most efficient vapour conversion. You
will have to get into the specs for each IC you use, to insure you connect
the right pins to the right wires, to control the frequency and pulse
width.
You can use spare sockets to try out different discrete component values. Just
keep the ones that are spec-compatible in the circuit, and get the job
done.
You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter pulses)
into the electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2 - 100
usec on the horizontal time-base). Your averaging DVM will display the
90%-I 0% DC voltage across the output transistor (Vce or Vds or
Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current and
measure .5 - 5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that
you got everything you wanted.
Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector. Check
your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you go.
You can best use board-mount miniature POTs for anything you want
to set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of
normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You WILL want to
get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on
(see Figures 2 & 4).
Figure 2 also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI I. There are ready-
made kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure fittings
to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will
necessarily be sealing the built in vents and making a 1-way air-intake.
The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection for the reaction
chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and
holding full pressure without leakage. Your new 'system' is considered
successful and properly adjusted when you get the full power range at
lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the pressure
safety valve.
CHT (or EGT)
Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust
gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your
 existing gauge is TOO SLOW for this application and will not warn you
against overheating until after you have burnt something.
Make sure that your engine RUNS NO HOTTER than in the gasoline
arrangement. VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits
under your spark plug against the cylinder head (make sure it is REAL
CLEAN before you reinstall your spark plug (as this is also an electrical
ground).
ENGINE/EXHAUST TREATMENT
Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones AND get the pistons/cylinders
ceramic-treated ASAP when you have successfully converted and run
your new creation. Do not delay as these items WILL RUST, either by
sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could make max use of
your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until it rusts
through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless steel
exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be ea$ier
to send your existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment, and
then simply re-attach it to the exhaust ports.
GENERAL
1. Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline set up components, e.g. tank,
carb/FI, catalytic converter, unless necessary. Better to always leave an
easy way to revert back to something that at least runs, just in case.
Some people are leaving their gasoline set up completely intact, and
switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan.
2. Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapour flow at IDLE, and
maximum vapour flow at FULL POWER without blowing the pressure
relief valve. In this way, you control how 'lean' your mixture is by the
strength of the pulse (i.e. 'fatness' at the optimum pulse frequency).
If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means that you
need to

(1) change the pulse frequency,

(2) change the gap between the electrodes,
(3) change the size (bigger) electrodes, OR
(4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort).

Always use an output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage
and current you need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play
around with it some. Isn't that where all the Fun is anyhow?
If you get ANY engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated by
adjusting the timing), it means that you need to install an additional coil
in the chamber, and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal (about
19 Hz on the .lsec time base) (see Figure 5).
Here,you will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapours
burn throughout the power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a
board-mount POT to set the correct strength of this 2nd pulse signal
into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about 1500 turns (thin wire)
that you can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT
touching either electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You
want NO KNOCKING at any power/throttle setting; smooth power
only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover from the combustion.
5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your ability to
mount them conveniently near the dash panel, or in the engine
compartment, as the case may be. This way, you can always make the
electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship. Remember that
anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-
proof, vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
6. If you have to drill a through-hole for wiring or plumbing through metal,
make sure to also install a grommet for protection against chafing.
Always watch your chamber pressure range from
IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL POWER (30-60 psi) - Set your safety-pressure relief-
valve to 75 psi and make sure it's rated for much higher.
7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any MALFUNCTION of
the system. Your engine will last longest when it still develops FULL
POWER+ at some minimum temperature that we are sure you can find,
by leaning back the Royal Vapour Flow and/or by making use of the
water-vapour cooling technique (see Figure 7). Keep good mpg
performance records, and periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it
clean; save some money; clean the air; heal the planet; happy motoring;
tell a friend; enjoy your freedom and self-empowerment; haul ass.
8. There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapour system through a
fuel injector; there may be some details you will discover on your own as
working prototypes progress. For example, you may be restricted to
inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapour WITHOUT ANY water vapour, as it
may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then you
will want to re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There
is always 'replacing the Fl system with a Carb'.
9. If you install the water-vapour system (for lower operating temp/stress), you
will want to lean the mixture (vapour/air) for minimum vapour flow
rate to achieve any given throttle position (idle - max). Make sure that
you get a minimum flow for IDLE an a modestly sufficient flow for
MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.
10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the 1-5mm gap,
you can always regress back to alternating plates of +/- electrodes.
11. If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can (a) add
some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency
accordingly; or (b) install some electric heating coils.
12. Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream, your freedom, your
independence, your truth.
REFERENCES
1. Stephen Chambers 'Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or
Parahydrogen' US Patent 6126794
2. Stanley Meyer 'Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas' US Patent 4936961
3. Creative Science & Research, 'Fuel From Water', fuelless.com
4. Carl Cella 'A Water-Fuelled Car' Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996
5. Peter Lindemann's Free Energy site and his article from NEXUS
'Where in the World is All the Free Energy'
6. George Wiseman's Eagle Research
'The Gas-Saver and HyCO Series'
7. C. Michael Holler 'The Dromedary Newsletter' and 'SuperCarb Techniques'
8. Stephen Chambers 'Prototype Vapor Fuel System'
DISCLAIMER: The author of this document assumes no liability for the use or
misuse if this information; which is made available as public-domain
information, for the purposes of education, ecology, health, well-being,
freedom, liberty, and pursuit of happiness.
COMMON LAW COPYRIGHT #285714: All rights to the use and duplication
of these plans are hereby reserved for the People, in their efforts to heal
and restore the environment. Dare to express your uniqueness and
environmental ideals. This technology is an exercise in responsible self-
determination.
Thank you for your purchase, please leave me your positive feedback and after I
will leave you the same feedback enjoy!
Thank you Take care Best Regards U.M.S