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Gray Generator

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FUEL-LESS ENGINE

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Generator……………………………………………………………..………….2

The Making of a Gray Generator………………………….….………………..2

Working Principle of a Generator (for beginners)….………………………...9

Plan…………………….…………..…………………………...………………..10

Parts List………………..……………………………………………....……….21

Timing of a Fuel-less Engine..................................................................…...24

How to Build a Commutator……………….…………….…………………….28

Ceramic Magnets (Introduction)……………………………..………………..32

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GRAY GENERATOR
If you are considering building your own motor/ engine using our guide,
we advise you build it for your own use only and keep it from family,
friends and the news media. The Generator Engine we built is a spin of
the Ed Gray motor as well as a combination of both our designs and the
Newman design. Furthermore, this generator is highly flexible since you
can run it on 300 to 1000 volts dc, (using a special coil design as well as
the designs included in these plans).

THE MAKING OF A GRAY GENERATOR

Making a gray generator is not a difficult task, you can approach it by


making the outer shell case out of just about anything you want to but
it’s recommended to use steel tubing or aluminum tubing for anything
over 100 hp. Anything below that you can use ½ ”plywood box. PVC
sewer pipe can also be used.

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Pole design

All magnets in the north and south positions push themselves apart with
great force in order to because the rotor shaft to turn that ultimately runs
the motor forward or reverse. This is our first prototype model and it is
highly flexible since it can be scaled up and down to any desired power
of your choice and you can even improve on this original design. The
most interesting part is that anyone can follow this guide and build this
motor. There are no requirements for building a motor based on the
instructions given in this guide. You don’t have to be an Engineer and
you even don’t need any prior experience in the art of Electric Motor
building or repair. All you need is just the ability to read. All you have to
do now is to check at your local library and you have all the resources
needed to get a basic understanding of DC Motor designs.

At the basic level, all HV electromagnets are wired NorthPole to North


Pole. But if you wish to make an attraction motor all you have to do is
wire and time the Poles to attract each other.

2-4 spark plugs will be used as high voltages


switches in order to send a DC voltage to 4
coils at a time. The engine can be designed in
any way but the main working principle
remains the same. It will be much easier to turn
on a slow rpm drill press if the magnets are about 4 to 6” long.

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Wrapping the coil with #31 wire at about 150 RPMs works best, 250
RPMs is a little faster but can be done. It’s recommended to build a one
Hp or less fuel-less DC motor first.

Different types of magnet coils have been made to run a small test motor
and the size wire which was amperage hog and the one which proved
worthy to be used in free energy motor was discovered. It was found that
#36 fine hair wire was the best but harder to work with and the #30
copper coated wire will work but the #36 is better with high voltage,
thousands of winds and a PVC plastic air core bobbin type coil.

During our early days of testing, we had to make different types of


magnet coils to run our small test motor, we ensured that we did
everything and left no stone unturned. But something great happened,
we discovered which size wire was an amperage hog and which one was
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worthy enough to be used in our free energy motor. We found that the
#36 fine hair wire was the best but we also discovered that it was harder
to work with. #30 copper coated wire will work, but #36 is better using
thousands of winds, High Voltage and a PVC plastic Air core bobbin
type coil

In this guide, we are going to show you the simple secret of the Ed gray
Engine, step by step, and the Fuel-less Engine, and also show you how
to build your own step by step. The Ed Gray US Patent reveals much but
not all, they left out the most important part such as size of wire to use
for the high voltage electromagnets and how many turns of wire that will
be required.

You don’t have to be an engineer or scientist to follow this guide, all you
have to do is read the guide carefully and follow all the instructions and
precautions step by step. We know of one customer, who was not even
an engineer and never went to College and he built our Gray Engine
with no problem because he knew what I am about to tell you is
common sense, followed all the instructions step by step and he put his
engine inside of an old caddy!

With this information you will be able to build a powerful free energy
electrical motor to run a 20 kW 120 vac generator to run your home and
even your business. Knowledge is power and the information is right
here in this book, in your hands.

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We believe that the next 1000 years will be self-powering, that is, one
hundred percent sustainable and many homes will be enjoying free
energy in the comfort of their homes. Our purpose is to reveal the simple
secret of the Ed Gray engine and the Fuel-less Engine. Although the Ed
Gray U.S. Patent has already revealed much but the information is not
sufficient to build a Fuel-less Engine all by yourself. Hence the need to
read our guide and follow step-by-step.

But we have a little request to make. All we ask is that you keep all of
this to yourself, this is TOP SECRET STUFF! Just build them for
yourself and keep it to yourself.

By buying these plans and opening this envelope, you agree to keep this
information contained in these plans to yourself, you agree not to try and
manufacture this engine or show a working model to the news media,
unless you get permission from us. We have redesigned this engine and
therefore have rights to this information, anyone trying to copy these
plans or manufacturing the Gray engine without our permission will face
legal action. Gray- is Copy written 2002. (You can build them for your
own use.)

This Engine Motor Generator is just a basic industrial HV DC electric


motor that can be scaled up or down to any power rating that you desire.
But the special part about this motor engine is it is free energy! Keep all
electromagnets firing North to North. We recommend you use

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permanent magnets on the rotor instead of electromagnets in order to
make it easier to build and eliminate the need for brushes. If using
permanent rotor magnets you will need to make the motor attract.

We now have a little favor to ask of you, please don’t' forget to send us a
video of your progress, this sometimes will help others if they are having
any questions, by sending us your video you are also agreeing that we
may use some of the video as promotion for other customers and
research engineers to see. Please note that all videos will not be returned.
If you are able to come up with any better designs through this guide,
whether big or small, it is not uncommon to get a reward. Thank you for
purchasing these plans, it helps us grow as a business and a research
company, we plan on having many new updates as well as new
discoveries that we can share to the world

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PARTS LIST

Quantity - One 1000 volt DC power supplies, 60 Hz or best 30 kHz or


more. The voltage can be stepped up by using a 115 vac power inverter
60 Hz modified sine wave. Use 1 high voltage step up transformer or use
the capacitor and diode step up method. Add enough capacitors and
diodes until the voltage is 1,000 vdc.

Quantity-2 Spark Plugs, Champion Copper Plus #855 DJ7Y

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Quantity- 2 12 vdc car batteries, car batteries help collect free energy
back emf, store it and also run the 1,000 vdc power supplies. The special
HV magnets will be used and will only consume very little amperage in
the milliamps. Batteries will last a very long time without the back emf.

Quantity- 6 or 10 high voltage electromagnets, a quantity of 10 is


optional, the more the magnets the more power. I would suggest starting
off with 6 magnets and adding later, turns magnets with #27 copper
coated wire since you would be turning thousands of turns, get each turn
of wire as close to the other as you can. It does not have to be perfect.
But the better you make them the higher the efficiency. Each magnet
core must be prepared correctly, make sure you spray each Iron core
with 3 to 4 coats of clear lacquer or red spray paint and allowed to dry
properly.

Quantity-2 Soft Iron ductal bar from industrial tube and steel.

Quantity-2 1000 vdc capacitor and diode multiplier banks, or a HV


automotive power supply. You can also use all the HV voltage supplies
like Ed Gray did on his engine but it is not necessary.

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PLEASE READ

Thank you for purchasing these plans! You will be glad you did. You
need not worry if you don’t understand the content and the instructions
in these plans at first. That is expected if you are new to the subjects in
these plans. These plans have been designed to meet the needs of the
complete beginner. You don’t have to be bothered if you are completely
new to the field of electronics or if you have never worked with
electricity before. If you are a complete beginner, all you have to do is
go to your local library, or a Radio Shack and get a beginners’ book on
electronics, electricity, electromagnets and electric motors. These books
can also be purchased from online stores like e-Bay. We have sold
thousands of these plans and we have many happy clients that built their
own fuel-less engine without having any prior experience with
electronics. You can also contact us if you need technical help (by E-
mail only) and we will try our best to get back to you and answer your
questions as fast as we can.

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NOTE: You can convert an automobile engine into a fuel-less engine
for free engine. But in order to avoid having the same troubles that gas
engines usually have (such as tears and wears on all mechanical moving
parts, oil rings, gaskets etc.) To do it you will need to remove the lifters
and head assembly, and redesign the head. You will need two high
voltage per piston. Attach one directly to a piston via a metal angled
extension and one magnet positioned on top of that one, north and north
poles of magnets facing each other. Then you must hook up the
capacitor banks and use the distributor timing for each piston to ignite
each piston. This causes the magnets to repulse each other taking place
of the explosion which takes place in an internal combustion engine. Just
like any car engine you will eventually need to have it rebuilt or
repaired.

An oil system or a cooling system is not needed to operate the Fuel-less


Engine and the Fuel-less Engine never dies. The only parts you will need
to replace are the spark plugs or commutators if you decide to use a
commutator system, spark plug wires and the 2 ball bearings that the
shaft rides on. We estimate replacement time every 25 to 30 years. If
you build your magnets right they will never break down.

This is not a common or ordinary electric engine / motor, and though it


operates with the basic principles of electric motor but it is unique and
there is nothing else like it in the entire world. The output is free energy
which is used to help rerun the motor by recharging the batteries. Every
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HV Electromagnet creates its own energy after power is taken off of it.
This electrical phenomenon is called Back E.M.F. and another type of
energy I cannot tell you about, But for your knowledge is not needed.

This free energy is converted back to the batteries to recharge them.

WARNING! Keep children and adults who do not understand high


voltage rules when working with high voltages. Always insulate your
hands with protective rubber gloves when working with protective
rubber gloves. High voltage is capable of causing death. Please know
that we are not responsible for anything in these plans. You build at your
own risk.

WORKING PRINCIPLE OF A GENERATOR (FOR


BEGINNERS)

An electric motor is essentially just a tight coil of copper wire wrapped


around an iron core that's free to rotate at high speed inside a powerful,
permanent magnet. When you feed electricity into the copper coil, it
becomes a temporary, electrically powered magnet—in other words, an
electromagnet—and generates a magnetic field all around it. This
temporary magnetic field pushes against the magnetic field that the
permanent magnet creates and forces the coil to rotate. By a bit of clever
design, the coil can be made to rotate continuously in the same direction,
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spinning round and round and powering anything from an electric
toothbrush to an electric train. So how is a generator different? Suppose
you have an electric toothbrush with a rechargeable battery inside.
Instead of letting the battery power the motor that pushes the brush, what
if you did the opposite? What if you turned the brush back and forth
repeatedly? What you'd be doing would be manually turning the electric
motor's axle around. That would make the copper coil inside the motor
turn around repeatedly inside its permanent magnet. If you move an
electric wire inside a magnetic field, you make electricity flow through
the wire—in effect, you generate electricity. So keep turning the
toothbrush long enough and, in theory, you would generate enough
electricity to recharge its battery. That, in effect, is how a generator
works. Essentially, the grey generator works by means of a center rotor
which rotates within a static housing when it is turned on which results
in the capacitor powering up to its firing spark potential. Following this,
all you have to do is to spin the shaft by hand or by starter motor. It is
recommended that the best motor to build is the 1 horsepower type,
which has already been included in these plans and if you need more
horsepower all you have to do is to scale it up. Air core electromagnets
are the best type of electromagnet to use. It should be remembered that
the finer the wire you use and the more turns of wire, the more free
energy output that will be generated, however, motor input voltage must
be increased. Using a fine and thin wire has its advantages, it will cause

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the motor to run with very little amperage at all, and then the free energy
back EMF can then be used to replenish the battery’s voltage. However,
the finer the wire, the harder it is to turn and hair thin wire breaks very
easily

HOW IT WORKS

The engine is highly efficient. It gives a great output with a lesser input
by using a high voltage AC at 60KHZ in milliamps. The voltage is then
converted to DC through the use of diodes which are rated at twice the
voltage of the input voltage and then the HV DC is directed to a HV
capacitor bank. The most important part of the engine is the capacitor
because without the capacitor the engine would not exist in the first
place. High voltage in the milliamps can do nothing to a HV
electromagnet without the capacitors. The capacitors quickly store the
electrons and so produce a great output of free amperage. There is
something else that was discovered that happens that is not explainable,
something extra is produced by the high voltage that causes this engine
to work. When the electrolytic capacitor bank becomes fully charged
and the spark plug gap is set to free at 1000 volts it ignites and a
complete circuit is made to the magnets which are facing one another
North Pole to North Pole, an explosive amount of magnetic power then

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takes place and both magnets repel one another. The power can be used
to power a generator to keep up the batteries and to supply power to an
entire home. It is impossible to get this much power from a low
milliamp source using any other electrical DC motor.

NOTE: The more voltage you use the more power your engine will
have, as well as RPMs.

Plans

A Gray engine can be built using a 1000vdc × 10-30 milliamp, the


capacitors (microfarad) can now be smaller, now you can use
electrolytic capacitors rated 60-200 microfarad and it is much cheaper to
build, this brings down the cost of buying large capacitors. An
automotive condenser/capacitor can be used. But capacitors that are
rated at 1000 volts × 100 microfarads and solder them together in series.
Your motor will be using more voltage and amperage if you use copper
coated wire and winding this wire around a soft iron core. This is a
crucial part when building the Gray Engine. It is possible to increase
power from about 100 to 350 hp if you add more or larger
electromagnets. Thus, the larger gauge wire you use the more amperage
you will use and the less voltage you will need, this is the way most
electrical motors are used today, these motors waste energy and they are
not designed to use the back emf of each coil of wire.

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Now back to the Fuel-less Engine. For instance, when a#2 wire is used,
it is like using a small thin water hose, what volume of water do you
think will pass through it? Assuming you now use a large 1/4" water
hose more water passes through it. It is the same thing with electrons /
current, the larger gauge wire you use the more amperage you will use
and the less voltage you will need, this is the way most electrical motors
are used today. I like to call these motors amperage hogs! They waste
energy! And they are not designed to use the back emf of each coil of
wire. The fuel-less engine on the other hand uses #27 wire which uses
less amperage and thus generates higher voltages, which by using higher
voltages you get more free energy.

You will need two soft iron cores, the first iron core use # 18 copper
coated wire with 200 turns, the second iron core use #27 copper coated
wire with 2,000 turns, now you will need a 1000 vdc x 47micro farads
capacitor or capacitor bank. Place a volt meter on the capacitor and
charge the capacitor to 1000 volts. Connect the negative wire of the
capacitor to the coil of the first and second iron core electromagnets that
you have made. Now connect the Positive wire coming from the 1000 v
cap and connect it to each magnet one at a time. If you have done this,
you will observe the first magnet will take only 1 to 2 hits before the
voltage of the capacitor hits -0-, the second magnet will take about 7 to
10 hits to reach -0-voltage mark. You will notice that the second magnet

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that is using the #27 wire consumes less energy to run than does the first
magnet (the amperage HOG!).

Wall transformer cores can also be used, you can simply use them
squared of which gives you less efficiency or you can cut them to the
shape that you like, they are small and the speeds can be adjusted, they
use very small drill cutting bits etc. You can sandwich the iron core
transformer core in between 1” wood or 1.2” plywood and use a hack
saw to cut them. Lamentation pieces will come apart if you do not use
the wood iron. Also note that the closer the magnets are the more
horsepower that will be generated. This also has the added benefit of
increasing the lifespan of your magnets. Your model can be a ½ horse
power motor using small 2 amp wall transformers then you can get some
10 amp large transformer.

Use a hacksaw to cut off the inside wire coil and remove it. This will
create an E shaped iron core having a horizontal shape glued to the
bottom, the next thing is to determine the radius of the motors you can
now make a plywood shaped template, also you will need one for the
stator magnets and one for the motor magnets templates of course should
be the same size as the same size as the transformer you are using.
Ensure you place a piece of thin board and tape them each side of
transformer before cutting and shaping itso when you cut the iron
laminates you will not pull them loose. The idea is to build a very
powerful and large flywheel type engine. I would use a 30” diameter
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flywheel and behind it a 25”× 30” diameter deep solid aluminum rotor
drum which the rotor isolation transformers would ride on, each roll
would consist of 5 transformers to increase horsepower. The firing
sequence would be setup in almost the same manner as a DC motors
commutator would be, but the difference is you would also have a
commutator much like an AC motor added to collect the back Emf,
which would have an enormous output of free energy. It is so simple to
design. You will be cutting down on performance if you cut into the
transformer laminates because they are shorting out which this lowers
efficiency, but this engine will still produce free energy by using cut out
transformer even when they are shorting out, that is this engine will still
go produce free energy when using cut out transformer core. You may
also want to customize your own iron core by having them cut to your
own special shape and size and then spraying them with lacquer and
gluing them together if you have the money you can call up a supply
company that carries the special soft iron sheets and have them cut up by
a professional in that. But #32 wire is a little difficult to work with and a
little hard to solder because it melts easily owing to its lower melting
point and breaks very easily. Hence, utmost care should be taken when
winding the coils as not to break the wire. If it breaks, then you must
clean the coating and of the wire with a lighter and then use a very fine
sand paper to clean it off then you should use a low watt soldering iron
to apply and attach both pieces back together. After doing this you must

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paint the connection with enamel or lacquer paint using a brush. It’s also
possible to take a high amp DC electric motor and convert it into an over
unity free energy motor. You can simply remove the motor and take
close pictures of how low the winds connect to the commutator, then
you unwind the (amperage hog) wires, once the entire wiring is gone
you then spraying the soft iron stator inside and out and with lacquer
paint. You must prepare the surface for high voltage or it will spark and
burn out and short out the #27 copper coated wire. Let it dry for about 1-
2 days then begin winding the iron core stator with the #11 wire. It may
be good to mark the connection of where the old wire coil began and
stopped although the coil looks like one big connected coil it isn’t. Each
coil over laps but are not connected, depending on the motors size, there
should be about 4-8 separate coils, these must be replaced with #27 wire
and put back into place. You must wind it very slowly by hand. Once all
the winding is done you can put it back together and try it out. Collect
the back Emf and then it should go over unity. This will generate a 12
volt DC motor that once ran at 12 vdc x 5 amps and ran hot, and will
now run on 1,000 vdc x 10-30 milliamps which then gets cold. If the
back emf is collected properly then you have created a fully working
and operational fuel-less engine. You can even decide to replace all the
electric motors in your home and watch electric bills go down. Again,
your motors will never get hot or over heat! Back Emf is free energy

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from a collapsing magnetic field generated from a coil of copper coated
wire wrapped around a soft iron core, pulsed by DC voltage.

The Ed Gray Electrical Layout

In the layout above, you will notice that every four high voltage magnet
must have a 1000 vdc capacitor bank. But if you want to cut down on
cost you can use the same inverter for all 5hv magnets.

The stator housing (the outer case) should preferably be made of


aluminum pipe. Aluminum can easily be found at aluminum salvage
yards and industrial junk yards in your area. You can decide on the size
and horsepower that you want. There are laser cutting companies that
will cut metal or aluminum to any size or shape that you want at an
affordable price. The rotor plates must be cut by laser and pieced
together or hand cut and balanced on a machine shop lathe machine.

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21
Use the illustrations below as a guide to give to your laser cutting
company.

Part #1 is usually a 1/4metal or aluminum disk normally attached to the


stator housing from the edge, by drilling and tapping out holes on the
edge of part #l. But do not worry if you do not know much about motors.
All you have to do is take apart an AC or DC motor and simply copy the
brush contact set up.

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Part #4 Rotor Plates

The rotor plate is a little expensive but your investment will be well
worth it if you cut them out of aluminum sheets. It is even cheaper to
have these laser cut by using a steel 1/4" plate. Note that it will be heavy
if you use 24 steel plates so you can reduce the heavy weight by cutting
only 10 steel plates and using 1/2" plywood as spacers. Your brush
contacts can be purchased at a hardware store or Grainger’s supply, or
you can have them laser cut.

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QTY- 24 5" Diameter X ¼ steel

It is pertinent that the center hole has a 1" motor shaft going through it, it
is a turned ground and polished shaft, make a hole about 1 1/32"? Let
your machine shop decide that. For Machines, this is a special electric
motor, cut b & c does not have to be critical since the magnet’s iron core
can be cut to fit the size that you desire

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Part #1 Front and Back Plates

The diagram below shows the front and back plates, you will need a
Quantity of 2. You will need to have them laser cut and will also need to
buy 2 1"pillow bearings for the center shaft to ride on.

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The Stator housing should preferably be made of 1/4"aluminum, steel or
PVC sewer pipe or wood. But we recommend you use aluminum. For
our second prototype we used a 1/4"plexi housing, with aluminum block
braces connected to the front and back plates, and three were 4 in all.
This took the pressure out to it keep from breaking.

Part # 4 The High Voltage Electromagnets

These Iron core magnets can be special cut by you or you can decide to
have them cut in a machine shop. We recommend you purchase the
special soft iron at Industrial Tube & Steel, Cincinnati Ohio , 1-800-332-
9567 the Material you want to purchase is called Ductal # 65-4512 and it
comes in square bars about 8 feet long. Once you get your soft steel bar
you will need to cut it up into 1/2" square wafers, if the steel bar you
bought is 4" x 4", then each steel wafer should be 4" x 4" x 1/2". You
will need a miter saw or a table saw with a steel cutting disk. But I
recommend you let a machine shop cut it up for you. Once you get all
your wafers cut up and down one side of each of them until they are
semi-smooth, then paint one side of each wafer with flat white spray
paint. The diagram below illustrates San example of the soft iron core
you will need to shape as you may want to get a rotor plate and make
sure it will be a snug fit. Now make a steel or wood template. The
template should fit in the rotor plate with a 1/16" play. You will need to

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cut an iron core template for the rotor and for the stator, upper and
lower. Now use these templates with a pencil and trace out the design
onto each steel wafer, (the white painted side) you will now need to cut
each wafer with a steel cutting blade using jig saw or a table jig saw.
Once you are done, just paint each wafer with a lacquer based spray-
paint and leave nothing unpainted, 2 coats will be fine, let dry for 1 to 2
days, then spray each one on one side with clear lacquer. Wait 15
minutes and then while the paint is still tacky, piece each 1/2" wafer
together just like a loaf of bread, to make a 4" deep soft iron core. Allow
it to dry for 2 to 3 hours then spray the entire assembly of wafers with
the lacquer, spray on about 3 to 4 coats, let it dry for 3 to 4 days before
you start turning your #32 or#38 copper coated wire around them. You
can purchase this wire online or you may have a wire company in your
area that sells copper coated wire. These companies sell to motor
manufacturers transformer and generator manufacturers and they will
also sell to you. Search for them on AOL.com or contact: EIS
LouisvilleKY. 502 -636-0384 they will sell you this wire in small
spools. You can then wind each magnet by hand or fix up a motor wind
of your own. You must wind very slow or you will break the wire and
it’s hard to solder back together.

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The fuel-less engine operates at about 300 to 1000 vdc rated in
milliamps. You can use 115vac * 500 watt inverter connected to a 12
volt dc battery, and then step transformer or our voltage multiplier plans
which uses capacitors and diodes to step up the up the voltage to 300
vdc or up to 1,000 vdc using a high voltage incoming ac current. For the
HV Electromagnets: Use # 27 copper coated wire. You may already
have a supplier in your area for wire that they sell in spools. You can
check your yellow pages phone book for Electric Motor repair shops,
they may sell you some or they can tell you where to buy it in your area.
But if you still can’t find it, you can still purchase it on the internet, e-
Bay for instance. Turn your #27 wire around an air core bobbin or a soft
iron core. The more turns the better. If you do not know how to build
these type of HV Electromagnets, we do sell the plans or you could try
your local Library.

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This is essentially a large DC Motor Generator that generates free
energy from the coils and caps. A 1000 vdc repulsive explosion takes
place at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions, the rotor arm is then forced to the
9:00 and 3:00 positions. The 1,000 volts is switched ON and OFF and it
is controlled by our easy to build homemade copper pipe commutator.
When timing is adjusted just right, the inner rotor arm and shaft will spin
very fast!

The Gray Engine is a Free Energy Perpetual Motion Machine which


uses high voltage AC at 60 Hertz. (300 to 1000 volts) in the milliamps.
The high voltage s then converted into DC (direct current) through the
use of diodes which are rated at twice the voltage of the input voltage.
Then the HV dc is directed to a HV CAPACITOR BANK.

29
It would not be possible for the capacitor to operate without the
invention of the Capacitor. That is, the capacitor is a major component
of the fuel-less engine and motors in general. High voltage in the
milliamps can do nothing to a HV electromagnet without the capacitors.
What the capacitors do is to quickly store the electrons and generate a
great output of free amperage. There is something else that we found
that happens that we cannot explain; something extra is produced by the
high voltage that causes this engine to work. The electrolytic capacitor
bank is now fully charged and the spark plug gap is set to fire at 1,000
volts, It then ignite sand a complete circuit is made to the magnets which
are facing one another north pole to north pole, An explosive amount of
magnetic power then takes place and both magnets repel one another,
You can use that power to do work, to power a generator to keep up the
batteries and to supply power to your entire home..

30
We learn through experience. I remember the first time I tried this I was
a bit skeptical and started out using just two electromagnets that I made
myself. I placed them on the table and I held down the top magnet just in
case it did work al because I didn't want my magnet to get damaged so
with all I could I held and pressed down on the magnet with one hand
and connected the+ wire lead to the12 volt battery, then to my surprise it
ignited and almost broke my arm, ouch, and I still couldn't keep the
magnet from flying in the air. That's an experiment that I will never
forget.

You cannot get this much power from a low milliamp source using any
other electrical DC store bought motor. But our motor will do it!

NOTE: The more voltage you use them or epower your engine
(Motor) will have, as well as rpms. But anything over 1,600 volts will
have to be well insulated. Your soft iron cores of your electromagnets
will have to be dipped in paint and allowed to drip dry for 3 days. Or
you can simply buy a 10 LB roll of #30 or so double or triple coated
copper wire. You can also buy the square type and you will get more
power but be sure to wrap wire as tight as you can, side by side as close
as you can.

The center Rotor rotates within the Stator Housing. After you have
turned it on and each capacitor bank powers up to its firing spark
potential then all you need to do is start it by spinning the shaft by hand

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or starter motor. Assuming you start it in the 12:00 position it then
ignites pushing it to the 9:00 position and the brush timing contacts hit
and ignites all 4 magnets again pushing it to the 6:00 position and so on.
Of course this all happens so fast and with so much power that you can't
see it. To give you an idea about what is happening flip a bicycle on its
back and spin the front tire as fast as you can repeatedly with as much
power as you can. You see a little of what happens inside this engine but
with 100 times more power made by the repulsion of the magnets. The
weight of the magnets and rotor and the inertia.

Note: the rotor can be made with just one magnet and a counter balance,
it will work just fine but with less horse power. The best motor to build
is the 1 hp type, which we have included in these plans. For more horse
power simply scale it up. Using air core electromagnets are by far the
best way to go. The finer the wire you use and the more turns of wire,
the more free energy output you will have, but motor input voltage must
go up. Using the fine wire will cause the motor to run with very little
amperage at all, and then the Free Energy back EMF can then be used to
replenish the 12 volt battery or batteries. The finer the wire the harder it
is to turn. Hair thin wire breaks very easy.

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PARTS LIST

In order to construct your own gray generator you’re going to need the
following items

1 Quantity of 3500 to 5000 volt DC to AC inverter 30 Hz to 60 Hz

4 Quantity of Spark plugs type champion copper with 855 DJ7Y or


anything close

2 Quantity of 12 volt car batteries or 4 quantity of 6 volt batteries

6 Quantity of 5000 volt DC Electromagnets

8 Quantity of 2000 volt diode or diode bank

1 Quantity of transformer. Please use primary only

You will also need electrolytic capacitors rated 400 volt * 470 uf. The
capacitors should preferably be connected in series using a soldering
iron. The importance of using electrolytic capacitors lies in the fact that
they have the advantage of charging very quickly, they will not store
much amperage since the finer the wire you use and the more turns of
wire you use the less amperage you will need to run your motor.
Furthermore, the higher the uf value of the capacitors the more amperes
(current) it will store. Although it will take longer to start up the engine
but once fully charged your capacitor will discharge very slowly because
your motor is designed to run at very low milliamps of power. It is
recommended that you use MDO board or some other strong thin wood

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for the coil bobbin, on our 1 hp motor we used 1/8 pvc sheeting, made a
square center and then glued the top and bottom into it using PVC pipe
glue. Furthermore, this motor can also be built using plastic PVC air
core magnets or soft iron core magnets.

2 Quantity of ball bearing which is required for the center shaft to ride
on. A 3/16 inches bore size or whatever diameter is suitable to your need
is recommended although it is easier to work with a 5/8” since it is a
standard pulley size

1 Quantity of heat treated round rod metal shaft 8 * 3/16”

4 Quantity of large PC boards, thin Rosin Core Solder 1-roll, 100 WA


soldering iron, 1 quantity. This will be needed for soldering capacitors
and diode banks

1 quantity of 15” diameter * 12” deep * no less than 1/8” thick steel or
wood drum. We recommend you use a wood drum from a Ludwig drum
set which is also the one we used for our prototype. This also has the
added advantage since it has the ability to be scaled up and down

14-nuts and bolts to hold down magnets unto drum, about ¼” * 2”

One 12 volts DC 60 to 100 amperes generator for keeping up an inverter


battery system or you can use a 10 000watt 120 volt AC generator

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1 8” * 5/8* aluminum pulley grangers which can be obtained at a
hardware store. If you use a 5/8* pulley with the 3/16* shaft you
will need bronze bushings or steel sleeves to fill the gap.

One 12 volt ON/OFF switch and an off key switch

Four spark plug wires that is needed to attach to spark plug and to
capacitor bank. The type used in lawn mower can also be used and
they have been shown to work efficiently and can be obtained at
hardware stores

One 500 or 1000 Watt inverter which converts DC battery to AC 115


volt 60 Hz to a diode and cap multiplier which in turn changes the
2000 volt capacitor or cap bank

NOTE: If you are using soft iron core the high voltage input has more
of a chance to arc and burn out your coil.

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TIMING OF FUELLESS ENGINE

If you are new to the field of DC motors and you want to get an idea of
how a DC brush motor works. All you have to do is to take apart any
size DC motor and check it out. Study it carefully Timing the Fuel less
Engine: 1,000 vdc is applied to the brush assembly. The brush assembly
acts as an ON and OFF switch for each set of magnets. The brush
assembly can be made in many ways. The timing takes place in two
places, the spark plug caps or the commutator brush collar assembly.
You will only need one 1000 vdc charging and firing system that is rated
at 1 to 3 amps, the more amps the better, but the more danger to you
during assembly. You can experiment around with a low milliamp cap
bank and power supply, 10 amperes is safe to use.

You will need two spark plugs, two sets of capacitor banks or capacitors
and one or two diode banks. One diode bank is for the Positive side and
the second one is for the negative side. When the rotor arm magnets #5
& 6 are in the 12:00 position contact should be made to fire #1, #5, #6 &
#3 magnets all at the same time. Wire these magnets so they are North
Pole to North Pole, or north to south which will cause motor to then be
an attraction motor. Many think that an attraction motor is better? But if
you are using this as a repelling motor then time the firing when the arm
#5 is just 1/16” past the center of #1 stator magnet. This will insure that

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the rotor arm will be pushed and rotated to the left and rotate counter
clock wise. If timing as an attraction motor, you will want #5 to fire at
about 3 to 4 inches before it gets to #1 magnet. This motor can be times
to run clock wise as well. Collect all back emf per coil using a diode and
capacitor per magnet, on the negative side outputs. It is strongly
recommended that you build our 1 hp motor to get more understanding
of how to build this motor.

If you choose to use a spark plug, you can gap the spark plug to fire a
little early which will cause your power up time to be less, but you will
have less shaft torque (HP). In other words you will have more RPMs
but with somewhat less Horse Power, Now this is not real bad because it
depends on what kind of generator you're going to use.

Please NOTE: the engine must be timed just right so the rotor magnets
do not repulse each other too soon. Repulsion must take place at center
or 1/16" past left or right. (This prototype uses a 115 volt AC
generator, Please note: This engine design rotates to the left only counter
clockwise.) You can design it to rotate both ways. Also Note: A & B
Magnets connect to the same + & - Brush Rotor Assembly.

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HOW TO BUILD THE COMMUTATOR

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DC MOTORS/GENERATORS

DC Motor/Generator (Introduction)

Electric motors are the interface of electronic boards to almost every


mechatronic and mechanical product including robots, drones, home
appliances, etc. A DC motor is an electrical machine devised to convert
electrical energy into mechanical energy. The main principle behind
working a DC motor is the electromagnetic law according to which a
current carrying conductor placed in magnetic field experiences a force,
and the direction of the force is given by Fleming’s left-hand rule. In
order to understand the basic principles, we need to understand the basic
constructional features of a DC
motor.

Every DC motor has 6 parts.


Axle, Rotor, Commutator,
Field magnets, and Brushes.

The basic component of a DC


motor is a current carrying
armature which is connected to
the supply end through the
commutator segment and
brushes. The armature is

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placed between two permanent magnets which produce a magnetic field.

The applied direct current converts the electrical energy into the
mechanical energy because of the interaction of two magnetic fields.
One field is produced by the permanent magnet and the other is
produced by the electric current flowing through the armature winding.
Because of the interaction of these two fields, the armature experiences a
force which tends to rotate the rotor. This is how a DC motor Works.

In order to build a commutator it is important to have a good


understanding of what a commutator really is. In very simple words
commutator converts ac into dc. Simple right? A coil rotates a magnetic
field which creates AC and commutator converts it to DC. In electrical
motors and generators, a commutator is a segmented metallic ring which
carries electric current to the rotating component. Stationary "brushes"
(usually carbon blocks) rest against the ring and supply electric current.
As the commutator rotates, it switches the current from one coil to
another in the rotor. In a motor, this maintains the proper relationship
between stator and rotor magnetic fields. In a generator, it converts the
AC current from the rotor into DC
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We are going to be describe the homemade Commutator designed by
Rick and Dave, This DC Commutator is used to turn off the incoming
DC voltage to the HV Voltage or Low Voltage Magnetic Coil. We are
going to create a junction bar that rotates and as it rotates it will slide
onto the 2 carbon DC motor brushes and cause a complete connection
causing DC current to flow into the Electromagnetic coil. We are going
to give you 2 options in making a DC motor commutator.

STEP ONE: Cut a piece of ¾’ Diameter” x 1 3/8” length copper pipe


that you can buy at any hardware store. Use a pipe cutter to cut a piece 1
3/8” long.

STEP TWO: Next using rough sand paper, sand the inside of the copper
pipe really good. And then clean with lacquer thinner. Surface must be
free from dirt.

STEP THREE: Pick Using a Q-Tip, Grease a piece of card board a


little larger than the copper pipe diameter, this is so the epoxy will not
stick to the Card board surface and can be removed when dry. You now
need to fill the copper pipe with Epoxy, so slowly squeeze out enough
J-B Epoxy to fill the inside of the copper pipe, follow all directions on
the J-B Instructions, Mix the 2 parts very well and start placing the
epoxy inside of the copper pipe. Let dry 24 hrs. I prefer to wait 40 hrs.
But the instruction do not tell you that. We use J-B Epoxy because it is
the best on the market and can stand up to 600 degrees.

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STEP FOUR: Now you must find the exact center of the pipe and score
it with a sharp punch. You will be scoring or punching a small hole into
the top of the epoxy. Now you are going to need a drill press. Place the
copper pipe up as you see in figure #3, Make sure bottom surface is very
flat, if it is not the hole will be crooked and the commutator will ride
with the shaft crooked and cause an off balance at high speeds. Start off
with the smallest drill bit you have and work your way up until you have
a hole the same size as your shaft rods outer diameter.

STEP FIVE: Now using a fine point marker, mark your cut marks on
the outside of the copper pipe piece. As shown in figure #4. Use a fine
tooth hacksaw to cut. Cut a long center cut all the way around the copper
pipe leaving a 3/4” space. Cut all the way through the copper and just up
to the hardened epoxy fill. Do not cut too deep into the epoxy fill.

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It is important to remember that this is a research device, Capacitor and
diode ratings depend on the voltage input vs. what size coil wire used
and # of winds. If you use a coil that is wound several thousands of
times with number 38 or 36 copper coated wire, you are going to need to
use voltages from 1000 to 3,500 vdc input. The back emf will be great.
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# 38 wire is hair thin and hard to wind but it is the best to use for a PVC
air core type magnet.

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Using # 36 or 32 copper coated wire is much easier to work with. Make
several coils out of old transformer iron cores. You will need to do a
little cutting. This will be a great learning experience for you when you
go to build a larger unit. Make one coil with #18 copper coated wire
which should come out to be about 90 to 100 turns, you will notice that
free energy can be collected but the coil and commutators run hot, heat
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loss = energy loss. # 18 wire will take voltages from 12 to 24 vdc. #38
wire will take voltages from 200 to 3,500 vdc. And will run very cool
and use very little amperage from your DC power supply, use a 12 vdc
battery with a small 100 watt dc to ac inverter.

You will need Copper coated wire to wrap around your soft Iron Cores,
You will want to build up to 4 different. Electromagnetic Coils with
different size wire for study and research purposes. Teachers show your
students the different effects and outputs that this Motor Generator will
make by using more turns of wire vs. less turns and the wire size. Make
your Magnets interchangeable. Collect the Back Emf to and use the
Vortex Effect to show your students how to get Free Energy out of there
motors

Use #16 gauge or #18 Gauge copper coated wire to make a Spiral. This
demonstrates an amperage hog motor, Place this Spiral under the motor
shaft. Run test and note what happens.

To make a Spiral coil, use two pieces of flat plexi glass or MDO board,
drill a center hole in both, sandwich the 2 pieces together leaving a metal
or cardboard spacer in between the 2 boards, the spacer washer must be
the same size thickness as the wire. Now place a bolt in the center hole
and attach a nut. Now drill a small hole nest to center hole so you can
run the first part of your wire through, tape it down and begin turning
wire

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CERAMIC MAGNETS (INTRODUCTION)

Ceramic magnets (also known as ferrite magnets) were developed in the


1960’s as a low cost alternative to metallic magnets. Ideally, they are
composed of iron oxide and strontium carbonate. While their hard,
brittle quality and low energy exclude them from some applications,
ceramic magnets have won wide acceptance due to their corrosion and
demagnetization resistance, and low price per pound. Ferrite represents
more than 75 percent of world magnet consumption (by weight). It is the
first choice for most types of DC motors, magnetic separators, magnetic
resonance imaging and automotive sensors Ceramic magnets are
manufactured using powder technology techniques. The primary raw
material – ferrite – is made by using iron oxide and strontium carbonate.
These materials are mixed together and then elevated in temperature to
1800-2000 degrees F. At this temperature they undergo a chemical
conversion and the resulting material is ferrite.

The ferrite material is then reduced to a very small particle size by wet
milling. The milled powder is then either dried (for dry pressed material)
or injected into a die (in wet slurry form) in a large hydraulic press. The
die is non-magnetic steel with carbide liners. The die cavities are the
shape of the part to be pressed.

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The wet powder (slurry) is then compacted in the presence of a magnetic
field. The water allows the flat ferrite particle to more easily align itself
in the magnetic field. Most of the water is removed during the
compaction process. The remaining water is evaporated during the initial
stages of the sintering process. The sintering takes place at 2000 degrees
F. approximately. After sintering the material is fully dense and ready
for finish grinding to customer specifications. As the material is very
hard and brittle, all of the grinding of ceramic magnets is done using
diamond wheels.

For this motor you will need 2 powerful ceramic permanent magnets,
you can buy these from Radio Shack or search the internet for magnet
suppliers. If you want to increase your horsepower then you must add
more magnets to your shaft, on this motor you can get 2 pair. Make sure
to redesign your magnetic coil structure to be longer. You can also
design a large HP motor with Radio shack magnets by buying a hex
shaped metal rod, and gluing 24 magnets to it. This will also ensure that
your permanent magnets will last a very long time. For the more
advanced: Use an aluminum or steel Hex Bar, have a machine shop
round off the ends to fit your end bearings. Epoxy each magnet onto the
hex bar. Example length, 18 3/8” long. Use 1” hex flats. This will make
for a very powerful free energy motor.

For the purpose of this motor you will need about 2 powerful ceramic
permanent magnets which can be obtained from Radio Shack or online
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stores like e-Bay. You can also scale-up your horsepower by adding
more magnets to your shaft, on this motor you can get 2 pair. Ensure you
redesign your magnetic coil structure to be longer. You can also design a
large HP motor with Radio shack magnets by buying a hex-shaped metal
rodgluing 24 magnets to it. This also has the advantage of increasing the
lifetime of your permanent magnet.

But if you have experience with DC Motors you can use an aluminum or
steel Hex Bar, have a machine shop round up the ends to fit your end
bearings. Epoxy each magnet onto the hex bar. Example length, 18 3/8”
long. Use 1” hex flats. The end result will be a very powerful free
energy motor.

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