AZ1632 June 2014

Small Scale Composting in the

What Is Compost?
Compost is decomposed organic matter, produced by
the work of millions of bacteria, fungi, and other naturally
occurring soil organisms. Good compost is very dark in color
and smells sweet like forest soil. Compost can be incorporated
into garden soil or spread on the soil surface as a mulch.

Why Compost?
Composting yard and kitchen waste:
• reduces the amount of material sent to landfills;
• saves money spent on fertilizers and soil
amendments;
• improves the water holding capacity of soil; and,
• oosens hard desert soil so that roots can penetrate
more easily, once it is incorporated. Raked leaves and other yard waste make excellent compost.
According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency,
26% of waste in landfills comes from kitchens and yards.
compost pile weekly. Keep in mind that covering the compost
Many Arizona cities have programs to encourage backyard
will slow water evaporation, but will prevent rainfall from
composting. Visit your city’s public works website for more
helping to keep the pile moist. A shaded location will also
information.
help reduce water loss.
What Is Needed For Successful 3. Oxygen
Some bacteria and fungi require oxygen to survive (aerobic);
Compost Production? others do not (anaerobic). Although both types will eventually
1. Native Soil Microorganisms convert waste to compost, we want to encourage the aerobic
The compost pile should be inoculated with native soil. Just bacteria and fungi by keeping the pile loose and turning it
one or two shovels of soil, mixed into the compost will provide often. Lifting and turning the compost periodically introduces
millions of fungi and bacteria that will turn kitchen and yard oxygen into the system and kills anaerobic organisms. This
waste into compost. There is no need to purchase commercial will speed the decomposition process and prevent bad odors.
products that contain these organisms. Placing bulky materials, like small twigs in the pile will also
improve aeration. These can be sifted out of the finished
2. Water
compost.
One of the biggest challenges to composting in the desert is
keeping the pile moist. Remember, the work of composting 4. Organic Materials Like Kitchen and Yard Waste
is performed by millions of bacteria and fungi. Like all living Many organic materials from the kitchen and yard can be
things, these microorganisms require water to grow and composted. Yard waste such as grass clippings, leaves,
reproduce. A healthy compost pile should be moist, but not trimmings and spent flowers can be combined with kitchen
wet (40%-60% of the weight of the pile should be water; it scraps like vegetable peels, fruit rinds, cores, and coffee
should feel like a well-wrung, damp sponge). Poorly drained grounds (including filters) in the pile. Straw, sawdust, and
piles will take on a foul odor and may harbor mosquito larvae. shredded paper can also be added in appropriate quantities
During the hot summer months, you may need to water the depending on types of other raw materials.
 What Materials Should Not Go Into A
A Note About Nitrogen Compost Pile?
Just as plants need nitrogen to grow, decomposing • Animal products such as meat, bones, fat, and pet feces
bacteria and fungi require nitrogen to aid in their
do not belong in the compost pile. They take a long time
growth and metabolism. If there is not enough green
material to provide adequate nitrogen, decomposition
to decompose, smell bad, attract flies and other vermin
will be slow or may stop altogether. To jump start and harbor bacteria that can be harmful to human health.
the decomposition, process or if there is not enough It is okay to compost eggshells and poultry, horse, sheep,
green material to achieve the 20:1 ratio, nitrogen-rich cattle, lama, alpaca, and rabbit manures.
materials such as manure or synthetic nitrogen fertilizer, • Oily products, like margarine and cooking oil are slow
such as ammonium sulfate, can be added to the pile. to decompose and should not be composted.
Putting un-composted organic matter, particularly
brown materials, directly into the garden can cause • Although thorough composting should kill plant
temporary nitrogen deficiency in plants, causing them diseases and weed seeds, it’s probably best not to take
to be small and yellow in color. any chances. Avoid using weeds that have gone to seed
or plants that are diseased. Weeds that are still green
and moist can be pre-treated to kill seed during the hot
A 20:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N) will produce the best summer months by placing them in closed, clear, plastic
compost in the shortest amount of time. The carbon comes trash bags which are left out in the sun for several weeks.
from “brown” or dry materials with a high carbon content • Never add fireplace ash to the compost pile, as it increases
like dry leaves, sawdust and shredded paper. Nitrogen the pH. Most Arizona soils are alkaline; increasing the
comes from “green” materials such as kitchen scraps and pH would be detrimental to plant growth and nutrient
manure. To achieve the ideal 20:1 ratio of carbon to nitrogen, availability.
a mixture of brown and green materials are mixed in the pile.
The following table contrasts brown and green compostable How Do I Build And Maintain My
materials.
Compost Pile?
Brown Green 1. For best results: grind materials into small pieces.
High in carbon High in nitrogen
Smaller pieces provide more surface area where
decomposing organisms can work, and the compost
Not always brown in color Not always green in color will finish faster. Mix the green and brown materials
Dry Moist together, rather than layering.
Dry leaves, pine needles, Kitchen scraps, grass 2. Remember to keep compost moist. In dry climates the
sawdust, shredded clippings, chicken manure, leading cause of slow decomposition is lack of water.
newspaper coffee grounds Decomposing microorganisms live in the film of water
surrounding the material in the compost heap. It should
If the C:N is too high (above 35:1), decomposition will be have the consistency of a wet sponge that has been
very slow. If it is below 20:1, excess nitrogen may cause a squeezed of excess water.
foul odor.
3. Turn the pile regularly to increase the amount of oxygen
available to the decomposing organisms. Add water as
C:N Ratios of Commonly Compostable Materials you turn the pile to ensure even moisture. Microbial
(From the US Environmental Protection Agency) activity will cause the compost to heat up. Ideally, the
internal temperature of the pile will reach 130o F for
Chicken manure 6-14:1 seven consecutive days. Compost thermometers can be
purchased from several sources for $20-$25.
Cow manure 10-30:1
Coffee grounds 20:1 What type of container should I use?
It is not necessary to purchase an expensive or complicated
Grass clippings 17:1
bin for making compost. The structure should keep birds,
Alfalfa hay 15-19:1 dogs, cats and other animals out, while allowing easy access
Dry leaves 40-80:1 for adding more material and turning. A good bin allows
for gas exchange and drainage. In Arizona, a number of
Newspaper 400-850:1
municipalities offer recycled trash containers as compost
Sawdust 442:1 bins for free or at a minimal cost (see image below). Recycled
Vegetable waste 11-19:1 wooden palettes can be attached with hinges to create an
effective and low cost compost container. Bottomless baskets
Fruit waste 40:1 made of hardware mesh or chicken wire can also be used as
Pine needles 60-110:1 inexpensive or free compost containers. The optimal size of a

2 The University of Arizona - College of Agriculture and Life Sciences - Cooperative Extension
backyard compost bin or pile is 3’x3’x3’ to 4’x4’x4’. If the pile
is too small, ambient air temperatures and moisture loss may
interfere with microbial activity and heating. If the pile is too
large, it may get too hot, anaerobic, and/or become difficult to
turn, and/or not allow enough oxygen to the center of the pile.
What is the best location for my compost bin or pile?
Keep the bin close enough to the kitchen so that it is convenient
to visit. Be sure it is near a hose bib or other water source so
that it can be watered frequently. Consider placing the bin in
the shade, to reduce water evaporation. Since nutrients will
move into the soil from the compost, place it in a location
where you would like to eventually plant.
How do I know when the compost is finished?
Finished compost no longer resembles the original materials in
appearance or odor. It should be dark brown or black in color
and have a sweet smell. Most disease-causing organisms or
weed seeds that may have been in the raw starting materials
will be killed if the pile has reached an internal temperature
of 130oF for seven consecutive days. When raw materials are
continually added to the pile, the process slows. Once the pile
cools, age the compost for three to six months to allow other Recycled trash container modified into a compost bin.
organisms to finish the process and stabilize the product.
For Further Reading
Troubleshooting Your Compost The Arizona Department of Health Services has published a
document on safe composting for school gardens:
http://www.azdhs.gov/phs/oeh/fses/school-garden/
If your pile is… Then documents/plant-derived-composting-attestation.pdf
Attracting flies, vermin or Remove and avoid The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency maintains a
other animals adding further meat, meat composting website: http://www.epa.gov/compost/
products, dairy, fat, or Cornell Waste Management Institute’s site has a series of free
animal carcasses. fact sheets on composting: http://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/
Slow to decompose or not Lower C:N by adding factsheets.htm
heating up more green materials to COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE & LIFE SCIENCES
increase nitrogen. Cooperative
Check moisture content Extension
and add water if
necessary.
Turn the pile. The University of Arizona
If the pile is smaller than College of Agriculture and Life Sciences
3’x3’x3’, increase the size. Tucson, Arizona 85721
Kelly Murray Young
Assistant Agent, ANR/Agroecology
Smells rotten or like Increase C:N by adding
ammonia more carbon-rich brown Contact:
materials. Kelly Murray Young
kyoung@cals.arizona.edu
Check for poor drainage
and remedy as necessary. This information has been reviewed by University faculty.
Turn the pile to improve extension.arizona.edu/pubs/az1632-2014.pdf
aeration. Other titles from Arizona Cooperative Extension can be found at:
extension.arizona.edu/pubs

Any products, services or organizations that are mentioned, shown or indirectly implied in this publication
do not imply endorsement by The University of Arizona.

Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Jeffrey
C. Silvertooth, Associate Dean & Director, Extension & Economic Development, College of Agriculture Life Sciences, The University of Arizona.
The University of Arizona is an equal opportunity, affirmative action institution. The University does not discriminate on the basis of race, color, religion,
sex, national origin, age, disability, veteran status, or sexual orientation in its programs and activities.

The University of Arizona - College of Agriculture and Life Sciences - Cooperative Extension 3