Garments Defects

Garments Defect
Defects in Garments:
For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name amongst consumers
and fellow companies it is important to maintain a level of quality. In the garment
industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials
to the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product quality is
calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color
fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment products.
However quality expectations for export are related to the type of customer segments and
the retail outlets. There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment
industry is based such as performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality
of the garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular framework of cost.
The national regulatory quality certification and international quality programmes like
ISO 9000 series lay down the broad quality parameters based on which companies
maintain the export quality in the garment and apparel industry. Here some of main fabric
properties that are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for export basis:
 Overall look of the garment.
 Right formation of the garment.
 Feel of the garment.
 Physical properties.
 Colour fastness of the garment.
 Finishing properties
 Presentation of the final produced garment.

Garments Defect
There are certain quality related problems in garment manufacturing that should
not be over looked:
 Sewing defects
 Colour defects
 Sizing defects
 Garment defects
Sewing defects:
 Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same colour garment, but
usage of different colour threads on the garment, miss out of stitches in
between, wrong thread tension and raw edges are some sewing defects that
could occur so should be taken care of.
Colour defects:
 Colour defects that could occur are difference of the colour of final produced
garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong colour
combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.
Sizing defects:
 Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from

other, for example- sleeves of XL size but body of L size. Such defects do
not occur has to be seen too.
Garment defects:
 During manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers,

irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes, uneven
parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colors.
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Garments Defect
Critical Defects:
A critical defect is one that is likely to result in hazardous or unsafe conditions when
using the product. A critical defect is also a deviation from delivery requirements which
prevents the product from being received. If one occurrence of critical defect is observed
during the inspection, the entire lot will be rejected. A 100% inspection will be carried-
out by the garments factory QA Staff to remove the defective product/s.
Major Defects:
A major defect is one that is likely to result in a customer complaint or return. A major
defect is also one that wills most likely result in product failure after a period of time that
is considered unacceptable to the customer or end user. A major defect will usually (but
not always) be obvious to the inspector during the visual garments inspection. It will
also be obvious to the customer during use.
Minor Defects:
A minor defect is one that is unlikely to result in customer complaint or return. A minor
defect is a deviation from the required standard, but one that is unlikely to affect the
usability of the product. A minor defect will usually be seen by the inspector, but may be
overlooked by the customer.
Different types of major and minor defects in garments

manufacturing are listed in below:
Serial Source of Description of defects Major Minor
No. defects defect defect
1. Fabric Wrong fabric √
Damage fabric/ Fabric with hole √
If not visible from outside --- √
If hole continuous to grow √
If shading present √
If there is printing defect √
If printing defect not visible --- √
Fabric not matching with master swatch √
2. Fusing If bubbling occurs to fusing √
If discoloration occurs √
If fusing gum is visible from outside. √
3. Zipper If zipper type and color is wrong √
If slider is defective √
If zipper size is wrong √
Garments Defect
If zipper is not well attached √

4. Button If button not securely attached √
If wrong buttons attached √
Missing functional buttons √
Missing decorative buttons (For zone B its Minor) √
Misaligned button (For zone B its Minor) √
Functional or decorative button insecurity sewn √
Size, type, and color not as specified √
Damaged button √
5. Button hole If button hole is incomplete √
If button hole is cut √
If button hole not aligned √
Missing functional button hole √
Missing decorative button hole (For zone B its √
Minor)
Misaligned button hole (For zone B its Minor) √
Extra button hole √
Broken or skipped stitches in the buttonholes √
6. Velcro Wrong Velcro √
Defective Velcro √
Wrong Velcro size √
Velcro misplace √
7. Snap button Snap button attached incorrectly √
Wrong snap button attached √
Defective snap button √
8. Eyelet, If attached incorrectly √
grommet,
buckle etc
If omitted √
If defective √
9. Embroidery Missing embroidery √
Misplace embroidery √
If embroidery is loose √
If embroidery is defective √
Size, shape, color as not specified √
10. Sewing/ If two shaded parts are sewn together √
construction
If wrinkle appears during sewing. √
If strap is not aligned √
If wrong size/type linings are attached √
11. Seam/stitch Stitch type incorrect √
SPI incorrect √
Broken stitch wrong inlay √
Stripe or check not matching √
Wrong seam √
Garments Defect
Thread not matching √

Defect repair incorrectly √
Defects like puckering, twisting, waving etc present √
Open seam present √
Overlap stitching (if it occur in zone B then it √
minor)
Double stitching √
12. Pockets/cuffs If top stitching not graceful √
If up or down the position √
Absence of back stitch √
13. Shade & Off shade √
color
Mismatched color √
14. Label Missing √
Misplace (if it occur in zone B then it minor) √
Incomplete label √
Wrong label √
Insecurely attached √
15. Pressing Over pressed √
Distorted √
Wrinkles √
16. Construction Any raw edge visible √
& stitching
If repair results in poor appearance √
If seam shows poor appearance √
If needle hole present √
Wrong embroidery √
Up-down/ misplacement √
Weak attachment of lining or facing resulting in √
poor appearance
Drill hole/ notches visible √
If placket is twisted √
If stitch tension too tight √
Broken stitch in chain stitch seam √
Broken or skip stitch present and visible --- √
If bartack is misplace √
If bartack is omitted √
17. Washing & Fabric is not color fast √
Dyeing
Over shrinkage of fabric √
Improper Dyeing √
Running Shade √
18. Finishing/ Overheating by iron changing fabric color √
packaging
Poor folding resulting in poor appearance √
Garments Defect
Damaged poly bag √

If garment size not matching that shown on √
package
If package broken or defective √
Assortment wrong √
If inner or cartons are broken √
Poor quality of master carton √
Goods package incorrectly, resulting in poor √
appearance
Missing , incorrect, or illegible pre-marked label √
Too much loose thread in packed garment √
Spoilage/ oil mark/ stain visible from outside √
Spoilage/ oil mark/ stain not visible from outside --- √
Part of garment undesirably stretched during √
finishing
If button/ snap button/ zipper are found broken after √
pressing
Pocket or lining not smoothly folded after pressing √
If shipping mark/ side mark on carton is wrong √
Quality Cost
Quality Cost:
 Any activity in business must contribute to overall profits; otherwise, it cannot
exist, and quality control is no exception. Management of quality function should
remember that senior management often considers quality primarily a business
problem, a matter of marketability and economics, for example, return on
investment, and only secondarily a matter of technology, for example, statistical
sampling.
 Therefore a quality control manager should be able to communicate with senior
managements in terms of costs, profits, investments, returns, etc. and not only in
light of production, per cent defective, sampling, etc.
Why is it important to know cost of quality or keep track of quality costs?
 Quality cost analysis can be used to identify areas of opportunity for improving
quality and reducing costs.
 Quality costs will give the quality control manager something to talk to senior
management about in order to prompt not only corrective actions but also some
preventive actions. By showing how much poor quality actually costs, senior
management commitment can be enlisted in quality improvement efforts.
 The performance of a quality control department can be evaluated in financial
terms and it can be determined how much cost is involved in achieving a certain
level of quality and whether the quality control department is paying its way or
not.
 It will help one budget realistically to achieve a desired quality level.
 Aside from the above reasons, since the cost of quality has a direct impact on the
profitability of any company, it is natural that senior management would be
interested in knowing the cost of quality.
(According to Juran and Gryna)
 Quality affects the company’s economics in two basic ways:
Effect on income: With superior quality the company can secure a higher share of
market, firmer prices, a higher percentage of successful bids (offer), and still other
benefits to income. It is this effect on income which makes quality has value.
Effect on cost: It costs money to build quality, to control, to pay for the failures.
 Finding the correct balance between costs of quality and value of quality is not
easy, since the facts are widely scattered throughout the various company
departments, the distribution chain, the customers, the vendors, and still other
locations.
Sadia Alam, Lecturer, Chittagong BGMEA Institute of Fashion and Technology Page 19
Quality Cost
(According to Drucker, the famous management consultant)
“Good quality is cheap, it is poor quality that is expensive” has been a truism in quality
control for 50 years. Yet few plants know how expensive poor quality really is. The
accounting system assumes that the process works the way it is desired to work- that is,
that it produces desired quality, uniformly(consistency) and throughout (all over).
It doesn’t show where, in the process, things went wrong. It doesn’t show how much time
and money has already been spent in earlier stages to fix problems. It doesn’t show how
many pieces have been taken off the line and scrapped as substandard without ever
reaching final inspection. These costs are hidden in the conventional accounting figures,
in overtime and overhead, in scrap page, in overstaffing and so on. Even in well managed
“high-quality” plants they often run as high as a third of total manufacturing costs,
sometimes higher.
The ASQC Quality Cost Committee recommends breaking down quality costs into the
following four areas:
1. Prevention costs: The costs associated with personnel engaged in designing,

implementing, and maintaining the quality system. Maintaining the quality system
includes auditing the system.
 Prevention costs (costs incurred to keep failure and appraisal costs to a minimum).
 Prevention costs are incurred to prevent or avoid quality problems. These costs are
associated with the design, implementation, and maintenance of the quality
management system. They are planned and incurred before actual operation, and
they could include:
 Product or service requirements—establishment of specifications for incoming

materials, processes, finished products, and services.
 Quality planning—creation of plans for quality, reliability, operations, production,

and inspection.
 Quality assurance—creation and maintenance of the quality system.
 Training—development, preparation, and maintenance of programs.
Example:
 Quality planning
Quality Cost
 Statistical process control
 Investment in quality-related information systems
 Quality training and workforce development
 Product-design verification
 Systems development and management
2. Appraisal costs: The costs associated with measuring, evaluating or auditing of

products, components, and purchased materials to assure conformance with quality
standards and performance requirements.
 Appraisal costs (costs incurred to determine the degree of conformance to quality

requirements).
 Appraisal costs are associated with measuring and monitoring activities related to
quality. These costs are associated with the suppliers’ and customers’ evaluation
of purchased materials, processes, products, and services to ensure that they
conform to specifications. They could include:
 Verification—checking of incoming material, process setup, and products against

agreed specifications.
 Quality audits—confirmation that the quality system is functioning correctly.
 Supplier rating—assessment and approval of suppliers of products and services.
Example:
 Test and inspection of purchased materials
 Acceptance testing
 Inspection
 Testing
 Checking labor
 Setup for test or inspection
 Test and inspection equipment
Quality Cost
 Quality audits
 Field testing
3. Internal failure costs:
 Internal failure costs: The costs associated with defective products, components,
and materials that fail to meet quality requirements and result in manufacturing
losses.
 Internal failure costs (costs associated with defects found before the customer
receives the product or service).
 Internal failure costs are incurred to remedy defects discovered before the product
or service is delivered to the customer. These costs occur when the results of work
fail to reach design quality standards and are detected before they are transferred
to the customer.
 They could include:
 Waste—performance of unnecessary work or holding of stock as a result of errors,

poor organization, or communication.
 Scrap—defective product or material that cannot be repaired, used, or sold.
 Rework or rectification—correction of defective material or errors.
 Failure analysis—activity required to establish the causes of internal product or

service failure.
4. External failure costs:
 External failure costs: The costs generated when defective products are shipped
(distribute) to customers.
 External failure costs (costs associated with defects found after the customer
receives the product or service).
 External failure costs are incurred to remedy defects discovered by customers.

These costs occur when products or services that fail to reach design quality
standards are not detected until after transfer to the customer. They could include:
 Repairs and servicing—of both returned products and those in the field
Quality Cost
 Warranty claims—failed products that are replaced or services that are re-
performed under a guarantee.
 Complaints—all work and costs associated with handling and servicing

customers’ complaints.
 Returns—handling and investigation of rejected or recalled products, including

transport costs.
Example:
 Complaints in warranty
 Complaints out of warranty
 Product service
 Product liability
 Product recall
 Loss of reputation
In the context of garment manufacturing, various quality costs can be divided as

follows:
1. Prevention costs: Cost of planning various quality functions, cost of evaluating

prototype (trial product) samples (whether testing or wear trials or both), cost of writing
specifications, and cost of personnel performing such activities.
2. Appraisal costs: Inspection costs, testing costs, personnel costs associated with
inspection and testing. Testing costs would include cost of the sample destroyed in
testing, laboratory supplies, etc. it can also be cost of using commercial testing laboratory
or cost of third party testing.
3. Internal failure costs: Repair work costs, cost of re inspection, personnel costs
associated with these activities.
4. External failure costs: Cost of returned merchandise, cost of claims, cost of

transportation for the defective merchandise, personnel costs associated with these
activities.
Quality Cost
 Total quality costs can be reported as a percentage of some base such as labor cost
(direct or indirect), cost of manufacturing, cost of raw materials, sales or profits.
 Quality can be measured and reported in many ways other than the traditional
way (prevention, appraisal, and failure costs). This has been explained by Sullivan.
 According to Dana Cound, Vice President of Quality Assurance American Can

Company, his company divides all quality costs into two basic categories:
discretionary (flexible) and consequential (major). In the discretionary slot, Cound
puts costs that can be directly controlled prevention, appraisal and administrative.
Consequential costs, quite simply are internal and external failure costs.
 There is no standard relationship between the four elements of quality costs, that
is, prevention costs, appraisal costs, internal failure costs, and external failure
costs. By increasing prevention and appraisal costs, one would expect to reduce
the internal and external failure costs, but that may not be the case always because,
in spite of excellent quality raw materials and good inspection coverage, garment
quality depends on workmanship (the degree of skill with which a product is made
or a job done), which may be a major stumbling (uncertain) block in achieving
quality due to poor training, poor machine maintenance, lack of pride in
workmanship, etc.
 Cost of quality and organizational objectives:
The costs of doing a quality job, conducting quality improvements, and achieving
goals must be carefully managed so that the long-term effect of quality on the
organization is a desirable one.
 These costs must be a true measure of the quality effort, and they are best
determined from an analysis of the costs of quality. Such an analysis provides a
method of assessing the effectiveness of the management of quality and a means
of determining problem areas, opportunities, savings, and action priorities.
 Effective quality improvement programs can reduce this substantially, thus

making a direct contribution to profits.
 The quality cost system, once established, should become dynamic and have a
positive impact on the achievement of the organization’s mission, goals, and
objectives.
Total Quality Management (TQM)
Total quality management (TQM)

 The term total quality management has become a buzz- word now a day. It refers
to organization wide effort to achieve quality.
 Total quality management (TQM) consists of organization-wide efforts to install

and make permanent a climate in which an organization continuously improves its
ability to deliver high-quality products and services to customers.
 TQM is the art of managing the whole to achieve excellence.
 It is the application of quantitative methods and human resources to improve all

the processes within an organization and exceed customer needs now and in
future.
 A philosophy that involves everyone in an organization in a continual effort to

improve quality and achieve customer satisfaction.
 Continuous improving
 Involvement of everyone
 Customer satisfaction
Simple Objective of TQM:

“Do the right things, right
the first time, every time.”
TQM Approach
 A committed and involved management to provide long-term top-to-bottom
organizational support.
 An unweaving focuses on the customer, both internally and externally. Find out
what customers want. This might involve the use of surveys, focus groups,
interviews, or some other technique that integrates the customers voice in the
decision making process.
Sadia Alam, Lecturer, Chittagong BGMEA Institute of Fashion & Technology Page 25
 Design a product or service that will meet (or exceed) what customers want. Make
it easy to use, and easy to produce.
 Design a production process that facilities doing the job rights the first time.
Determine where mistakes are likely to occur and try to prevent them. When
mistakes do occur, find out why so that they are less likely to occur again. Strive
to “mistake-proof” the process.
 Keep track of results, and use those to guide improvement in the system. Never
stop trying to improve.
 Extend these concepts to suppliers and to distribution. Treating suppliers as

partners.
 Continuous improvement of the business and product process.
 Establish performance measures for the process.
The main distinguishing characteristics of TQM are:

1. Continual Improvement
2. Customer Focus
3. Organization-wide activity
4. Employee Empowerment
5. Team approach
6. Competitive Benchmarking
7. Knowledge of tools
8. Long-term relationship with the suppliers
9. Internal and external customers
Continual Improvement:
 The quest for quality and better service to the customer should be a continual,
never-ending journey. Competitors will seek to provide better service, and
customers will come to expect better service.
Customer Focus:
 Customer is main focal point, and thus customer satisfaction is the ultimate
driving force of business. For higher customer satisfaction, customer requirements
should be identified as the first step to designing other activities.
Organization-wide activity:
 As opposed to the idea of traditional thinking, quality is the responsibility of all in

the organization. Everyone in the organization has some roles to play for customer
satisfaction. And thus, involvement of all in the organization is a must.
Employee Empowerment:
 Giving workers the responsibility for improvements, and the authority to make
changes to accomplish them, provides strong motivation for employees, and puts
decision making into the hands of those who are closest to the job and have
considerable insight into problems and solutions.
Team approach:
 The use of terms for problem solving, and to achieve consensus (agreement), takes
advantage of group dynamics, get people dynamics, and promotes a spirit of
cooperation and shared values among employees.
Competitive Benchmarking:
 This means identifying companies or other organizations that are the best at
something and then modeling own organization after them.
Knowledge of tools:
 Everyone in the organization is trained in the use of quality control and

improvement tools.
Long-term relationship with the suppliers:
 Suppliers are regarded as partners in the process, and long-term relationships are
encouraged.
Internal and external customers:
 A view that is something helpful is to consider the internal customers and strive to
satisfy them. That is, every activity in an organization has one or more
“customers” who receive their output.
Total Quality Management Principles:

Total quality management can be summarized as a management system for a customer-
focused organization that involves all employees in continual improvement. It uses
strategy, data, and effective communications to integrate the quality discipline into the
culture and activities of the organization. Many of these concepts are present in modern
Quality Management Systems, the successor to TQM. Here are the 8 principles of total
quality management:
1. Customer-focused:
The customer ultimately determines the level of quality. No matter what an organization
does to foster quality improvement—training employees, integrating quality into the
design process, upgrading computers or software, or buying new measuring tools—the
customer determines whether the efforts were worthwhile.
2. Total employee involvement:
All employees participate in working toward common goals. Total employee

commitment can only be obtained after fear has been driven from the workplace, when
empowerment has occurred, and management has provided the proper environment.
High-performance work systems integrate continuous improvement efforts with normal
business operations. Self-managed work teams are one form of empowerment.
3. Process-centered:
A fundamental part of TQM is a focus on process thinking. A process is a series of steps

that take inputs from suppliers (internal or external) and transforms them into outputs that
are delivered to customers (again, either internal or external). The steps required to carry
out the process are defined, and performance measures are continuously monitored in
order to detect unexpected variation.
4. Integrated system:
Although an organization may consist of many different functional specialties often

organized into vertically structured departments, it is the horizontal processes
interconnecting these functions that are the focus of TQM.
Micro-processes add up to larger processes, and all processes aggregate into the business
processes required for defining and implementing strategy. Everyone must understand the
vision, mission, and guiding principles as well as the quality policies, objectives, and
critical processes of the organization. Business performance must be monitored and
communicated continuously.
Every organization has a unique work culture, and it is virtually impossible to achieve
excellence in its products and services unless a good quality culture has been fostered.
Thus, an integrated system connects business improvement elements in an attempt to
continually improve and exceed the expectations of customers, employees, and other
stakeholders.
5. Strategic and systematic approach:
A critical part of the management of quality is the strategic and systematic approach to
achieving an organization’s vision, mission, and goals. This process, called strategic
planning or strategic management, includes the formulation of a strategic plan that
integrates quality as a core component.
6. Continual improvement:
A major thrust of TQM is continual process improvement. Continual improvement drives

an organization to be both analytical and creative in finding ways to become more
competitive and more effective at meeting stakeholder expectations.
7. Fact-based decision making:
In order to know how well an organization is performing, data on performance measures

are necessary. TQM requires that an organization continually collect and analyze data in
order to improve decision making accuracy, achieve consensus, and allow prediction
based on past history.
8. Communications:
During times of organizational change, as well as part of day-to-day operation, effective

communications plays a large part in maintaining morale and in motivating employees at
all levels. Communications involve strategies, method, and timeliness.
Obstacles to Implementing TQM:

 Lack of a company-wide definition of quality.
 Lack of a formalized strategic plan for change.
 Lack of a customer focus.
 Poor inter-organizational communication.
 Lack of real employee empowerment.
 Lack of employee trust in senior management.
 Drive for short-term financial results.
 Politics.
Characteristics of Successful TQM Companies:

 Strive for owner/customer satisfaction and employee satisfaction.
 Strive for accident-free jobsites.
 Fact-based decision making.
 Arrange for employees to become involved in helping the company improve train
extensively.
 Work hard at improving communication inside and outside the company.
 Use teams of employees to improve processes.
 Place a strong emphasis on the right kind of leadership.
 Involve subcontractors and suppliers in continuous improvement.
 Strive for continuous improvement.
Steps in implementing TQM:

1. Obtain CEO Commitment
2. Educate Upper-Level Management
3. Create Steering Committee
4. Outline the Vision Statement, Mission Statement, & Guiding Principles
5. Prepare a Flow Diagram of Company Processes
6. Focus on the Owner/Customer (External) & Surveys
7. Consider the Employee as an Internal Owner/customer
8. Provide a Quality Training Program
9. Establish Quality Improvement Teams
10. Implement Process Improvements
11. Use the Tools of TQM
12. Know the Benefits of TQM
Job description of quality control personnel
What does a Quality Control Inspector do?
A quality control inspector is a person who checks quality of products in raw materials
form or final form or any phase of processing, such as cutting, sewing, finishing, packing
and prior to shipment.
A Quality Control Inspector is involved in a variety of different quality control processes.
They check fabrics for flaws and defects make sure that colors are correct and examine
the strength of the final product.
In the apparel and footwear sectors, they check that seams and stitching are neat and
strong, and verify that all products are produced to the same size and standard.
Quality Control Inspectors need to keep accurate records of products checked, sometimes
carrying out a statistical analysis. They often produce written reports for the production
team and have regular meetings to discuss how quality standards can be maintained, or
highlight problem areas that require review.
Examples of Quality Control Inspector responsibilities
 Inspect raw materials to ensure consistency and integrity.

 Maintain and test all instrumentation devices.
 Attempt repairs on broken or damaged products to determine the best way to scale
those repairs.
 Test a certain percentage of all products based on industry standards.
 Report problems or concerns to senior management immediately.
 Manage our quality assurance division and ensure all employees meet their
required quotas.
 Provide training and support to QA team.
 Create an effective, efficient testing protocol to be used across all product lines.
Job description of Fabric Inspector:
 He inspects 10% color wise rolls and records the result.
 If there is any discrepancy in quality, 100% rolls are inspected.
 He inspects the rolls to identify general defects & shading if any.
 For general defect he will use 4 point system to penalize defects and will accept if
penalty points are below 40 or otherwise specified by the buyer.
 For shading problem, he will inspect the rolls rigorously, separate them shade
wise.
 He will document the result of inspection and send them to the appropriate
authority for onward submission to the supplier & buyer.
Job description of Trims & Accessory Inspector:
 He conducts inspection of trims for quality and quantity.
 He conducts 10% inspection of goods. In case of any discrepancy he will conduct

100% inspection.
 He will document the result of inspection and send them to the appropriate
authority for onward submission to the supplier & buyer.
Job description of Pattern and Marker Inspector:
 He insures the pattern and its grading is ok.
 That the marker is ok and within specified consumption.
 He documents his inspection report.
Job description of Inspector for Spreading, Cutting, Numbering:
 Checks whether fabric lay is correct.
 Checks whether fabric lay height is correct.
 Whether cutting is conducted correctly.
 Checks whether size & color wise bundling is done correctly.
 Checks whether there is any defect in fabric, lining, & interlining etc.
Job description of Line Inspector:
 He ensures that all inputs are covered so that they do not stain.
 He detects at needle point and at a very preliminary stage.
 Check if there are defects due to fault in machine, needle, thread etc.
 Checks if right color & types of thread, button, zipper, lining, label, logo etc have
been used.
 Checks if buyer’s instruction are followed.
 Ensures that machines, tables, operators’ hand, floor are clean & free of dust &
dirt etc.
 He checks all processes in a production line on random basis.
 He marks defects on a specially designed chart (traffic light chart).
 He identifies defect level, defect rate etc.
Job description of Table Inspector:
 He conducts 100% inspection of all goods on an inspection table.
 He checks the garments zone-wise.
 Checks all types of defects and rejects, defective garments.
 Checks if there is any oil, or stain mark, needle mark, point up down etc.
 Compares buyer’s specification with actual garment quality.
 Check size specification rigorously.
 Check if right color and thread, button, zipper, lining, label etc have been properly
attached.
 Takes special care about major defects
 He passes goods, which conform to buyer’s specification.
Job description of Finishing Inspector:
 He controls heat of the iron so that goods are not damaged by over heat.
 Looks after the overall finishing section
 Supervising the poly packing & cartooning.
 Maintains shipment schedule
 Procurement of required accessories & cartons
 Maintain the daily finished garments record
 Ensures cleanliness of finishing tables.
 Check for defects & rejects.
 Take special care about oil mark, stain mark etc.
 Inspects goods before poly packing.
 Ensures quality of packing, side marks of cartoons, etc.
 Ensures that finished & packed garment matches approved finished garment.
Job description of Final Inspector:
 Ensures that the whole consignment (lot) is stacked at one place.
 Ensures that sample are drawn from the lot on random basis
 He/she inspects each sample and records outcome.
 He/she counts the number of rejects out of the sample size.
 He/she compares it with that all allowed as per inspection sampling plan.
 He/she checks shipping mark & side marks, gross and net weight etc.
Job description of Quality Control Manager:
 The quality manager is an important official in a garments factory. Customer

satisfaction, reputation of the company to a large extent depends upon him.
His/her job description is given below:
 He/she will install or maintain a right quality control management to ensure

quality of product.
 He /she will ensure that the existing QMS satisfied the buyer.
 He /she will ensure the buyer specifications are properly understood.
 If there is any confusion, he /she will confirm buyer’s actual specifications.
 He /she will ensure that all incoming, in process & final goods are properly
understood.
 He /she will ensure that all goods coming in the store are rigorously (carefully)
inspected for quality & quantity.
 He /she will ensure that all of his/her personnel are trained on their topics.
 He/she will plan for year wise improvement of quality.
 He/ She will prepare a quality manual for the company so that company’s quality
policy & procedures are known to all & implemented at all levels.
 He/ She will monitor performance of suppliers of raw materials.
 He/she will have his personnel motivated.
Quality Management System:
Quality management system is the aspects of all the overall management function that
determines and implements the quality policy.
Quality management strives towards the achievement of quality in everything one does.
Quality means conformance to customer requirements. In today’s highly competitive
economy, business must face the challenge of continually improving the quality of the
goods or services. A number of systems, measures & techniques are used so that only
quality goods are produced in the first place and defects do not originate at all. If they
occur at all, there must be corrective action so that they are eliminated in the preliminary
stage and would not reappear. For increasing productivity in garment industry need
strong quality management system. Here flowchart of quality management system is
given for apparel industry.
A quality management system (QMS) is a collection of business processes focused on

consistently meeting customer requirements and enhancing their satisfaction. It is
expressed as the organizational goals and aspirations, policies, processes, documented
information and resources needed to implement and maintain it.
Importance of QMS:
Effective QMS' are rigorous processes, which are able to continually increase the
economic and quality value of products and services. They work to enhance the
experience of your customers, which, for a small business, is essential when it comes to
ensuring customer retention.
Flow Chart of Quality Management System in the Garments Industry
QMS generally employs the following measures, techniques to ensure that only quality
good are produced:
Inspect all incoming, in-process & final goods to ensure quality of goods.
↓
Ensure that all patterns & grading of patterns are okay.
↓
Inspect marker and check if it is okay and within consumption.
↓
Inspect spreading, cutting & numbering.
↓
Ensure if relaxation time was given to knit fabric.
↓
Install in-line inspector in the sewing lines.
↓
Install Traffic Light Chart system or other system to monitor quality in production line.
↓
Inspect 100% goods delivered from sewing lines.
↓
Inspect the table quality passed garments with Statistical Technique.
↓
Control reject goods so that they do not mix up with quality passed goods.
↓
Control repairable goods, washable goods so that they can be double checked to ensure
quality.
↓
Inspect goods with right equipment’s and in right conditions.
↓
Inspect ironing, folding.
↓
Make repeat inspection of garments prior to poly-bagging.
↓
Inspect poly-bagging
↓
Final table inspection in conducted prior to shipment of goods.
↓
Impart training QA personnel so that they can easily identify defects & understand the
causes of defects.
↓
Impart training QA personnel on Statistical Methods.
↓
Make continuous improvement plans & implement them.
A good quality management system will:
 Reduce wastage
 Improve process control
 Increase market share
 Lower costs
 Facilitate training
 Meet customers’ expectations
 Raise Morale
The Main Benefits of a Quality Management System:
Increased Efficiency:
Businesses that go through the ISO 9001 QMS certification process have the aim to
maximize the efficiency and quality of their processes. As part of the process, guidelines
will be put in place for all employees to follow. This means that when dealing with
trouble-shooting issues, transactions or training it will be a much smoother process and
less draining in terms of time or financial outlay.
Better Employee Morale:
Members of staff need to be motivated and satisfied to perform well. Clear, defined roles,
accountability of management, established training systems as well as a clear
understanding of how their roles affect the quality and the success of the business are all
part of fostering an effective employer/staff relationship. It makes good business sense to
retain good staff rather than go through the process of re-hiring and re-training and it
boils down to the fact that great employees are not replaceable.
International Recognition:
ISO is a worldwide mark of quality management, making a business appears reliable and
trustworthy. It is the goal of many businesses to export internationally, and ISO
accreditation will go a long way to establishing credence in the international business
arena.
Improvement of Processes:
You can learn what improvements are needed by the facts that you find through a system
of documentation and analysis. This is a carefully planned and implemented procedure,
which will guarantee that you make the correct choices for your business and eliminate
the risks of any costly mistakes.
Implementing a quality management system affects every aspect of an organization's

performance. Benefits of a documented quality management system include:
1. Meeting the customer’s requirements, this helps to instill confidence in the

organization, in turn leading to more customers, more sales, and more repeat
business.
2. Meeting the organization's requirements, this ensures compliance with regulations
and provision of products and services in the most cost- and resource-efficient
manner, creating room for expansion, growth, and profit.
These benefits offer additional advantages, such as helping to communicate a readiness to

produce consistent results, preventing mistakes, reducing costs, ensuring that processes
are defined and controlled, and continually improving the organization's offerings.
Quality management system (QMS) standards establish a framework for how a business
manages its key processes. They can help whether your business offers products or
services and regardless of your size or industry. They can also help new businesses start
off on the right foot by ensuring processes meet recognized standards, clarifying business
objectives and avoiding expensive mistakes.
To comply with the standard you’ll first need to implement a QMS. Implementing a
QMS can help your business to:
 Achieve greater consistency in the activities involved in providing products or

services
 Reduce expensive mistakes
 Increase efficiency by improving use of time and resources
 Improve customer satisfaction
 Market your business more effectively
 Exploit new market sectors and territories
 Manage growth more effectively by making it easier to integrate new employees
 Constantly improve your products, processes and systems
Quality management systems serve many purposes, including:
 Improving processes
 Reducing waste
 Lowering costs
 Facilitating and identifying training opportunities
 Engaging staff
 Setting organization-wide direction
Elements and requirements of a quality management system:
Each element of a quality management system helps achieve the overall goals of meeting
the customers’ and organization’s requirements. Quality management systems should
address an organization’s unique needs; however, elements all systems have in common
include:
 The organization’s quality policy and quality objectives

 Quality manual
 Procedures, instructions, and records
 Data management
 Internal processes
 Customer satisfaction from product quality
 Improvement opportunities
 Quality analysis
Establishing and implementing a QMS:
Before establishing a quality management system, your organization must identify and
manage various connected, multi-functional processes to help ensure customer
satisfaction. The QMS design should be influenced by the organization’s varying
objectives, needs, and products and services provided. This structure is based largely on
the Plan-Do-Check-Act (PDCA) cycle and allows for continuous improvement to both
the product and the QMS. The basic steps to implementing a quality management system
are as follows:
 Design
 Build
 Deploy
 Control
 Measure
 Review
 Improve
QMS – Design and Build
The design and build portions serve to develop the structure of a QMS, its processes, and
plans for implementation. Senior management should oversee this portion to ensure the
needs of the organization and the needs of its customers are a driving force behind the
systems development.
QMS – Deploy
Deployment is best served in a granular fashion by breaking each process down into sub
processes, and educating staff on documentation, education, training tools, and metrics.
Company intranets are increasingly being used to assist in the deployment of quality
management systems.
QMS – Control and Measure
Control and measurement are two areas of establishing a QMS that are largely
accomplished through routine, systematic audits of the quality management system. The
specifics vary greatly from organization to organization depending on size, potential risk,
and environmental impact.
QMS – Review and Improve
Review and improvement detail with how the results of an audit are handled. The goals
are to determine the effectiveness and efficiency of each process toward its objectives, to
communicate these findings to the employees, and to develop new best practices and
processes based on the data collected during the audit.
Quality management systems: industrial influence on quality and standardization
The history of quality can trace its roots back centuries when craftsmen began organizing
into unions called guilds. When the Industrial Revolution came, early quality
management systems were used as standards that controlled product and process
outcomes. As more people had to work together to produce results and production
quantities grew, best practices were needed to ensure quality results.
Eventually, best practices for controlling product and process outcomes were established
and documented. These documented best practices turned into standard practices for
quality management systems.
Quality became increasingly important during World War II, for example, when bullets
made in one state had to work with rifles made in another. The armed forces initially
inspected virtually every unit of product. To simplify the process without sacrificing
safety, the military began to use quality techniques of sampling for inspection, aided by
the publication of military-specification standards and training courses in Walter
Shewhart’s statistical process control techniques.
The importance of quality only grew after the war. The Japanese enjoyed a quality
revolution, improving their reputation for shoddy exports by fully embracing the input of
American thinkers like Joseph M. Juran and W. Edwards Deming and shifting focus from
inspection to improving all organization processes through the people who used them. By
the 1970s the U.S. industrial sectors such as electronics and automobiles had been
broadsided by Japan’s high-quality competition.
The Rise of Quality Management Systems:
The American response to the quality revolution in Japan gave birth to the concept of
total quality management (TQM), a method for quality management that emphasized not
only statistics but approaches that embraced the entire organization.
In the late 20th century, independent organizations began producing standards to assist in
the creation and implementation of quality management systems. It is around this time
that the phrase “Total Quality Management” began to fall out of favor. Because of the
multitude of unique systems that can be applied, the term “Quality Management System”
or “QMS” is preferred.
At the start of the 21st century, QMS had begun to merge with the ideas of sustainability,
and transparency, as these themes became increasingly important to consumer
satisfaction. The ISO 19011 audit regime deals with both quality and sustainability and
their integration into organizations.
ISO 9001:2015 and other quality management standards:
ISO 9001:2015 is the most recognized and implemented quality management system
standard in the world. ISO 9001:2015 specifies the requirements for a QMS that
organizations can use to develop their own programs.
Other standards related to quality management systems include the rest of the ISO 9000
family (including ISO 9000 and ISO 9004), the ISO 14000 family (environmental
management systems), ISO 13485 (quality management systems for medical devices),
ISO 19011 (auditing management systems), and ISO/TS 16949 (quality management
systems for automotive-related products).
Quality Glossary Definition: Quality management system (QMS)
A quality management system (QMS) is defined as a formalized system that documents

processes, procedures, and responsibilities for achieving quality policies and objectives.
A QMS helps coordinate and direct an organization’s activities to meet customer and
regulatory requirements and improve its effectiveness and efficiency on a continuous
basis.
ISO 9001:2015, the international standard specifying requirements for quality

management systems, is the most prominent approach to quality management systems.
While some use the term "QMS" to describe the ISO 9001 standard or the group of
documents detailing the QMS, it actually refers to the entirety of the system. The
documents only serve to describe the system.
Tools of Quality
Seven Tools of Quality:

 Collecting and analyzing data is a foundation on which the effective management
of quality rests. The so called “seven tool of quality” will help you effectively
collect and analyze data.
The seven tools of quality are:
 Cause and effect diagram
 Check sheet
 Control chart
 Flow chart
 Histogram
 Pareto chart
 Scatter diagram
Cause and effect diagram:
 This cause and effect diagram is called a fishbone diagram because it looks like
skeleton of a fish. Also, this diagram is called Ishikawa diagram, named after a
Japanese quality expert who came up with this concept. The idea is first to identify
and state the problem, which is in essence an effect of something that happened in
a process, and think through various causes that may resulted in an undesired
effect. Drawing a cause and effect diagram helps one think systematically and
logically. It graphically illustrates the relationship between a given outcome and
all the factors that influence this outcome.
 Common uses of the Ishikawa diagram are product design and quality defect
prevention to identify potential factors causing an overall effect. Each cause or
reason for imperfection is a source of variation. Causes are usually grouped into
major categories to identify these sources of variation.
Tools of Quality
The categories typically include:
 People: Anyone involved with the process
 Methods: How the process is performed and the specific requirements for doing it,
such as policies, procedures, rules, regulations and laws
 Machines: Any equipment, computers, tools, etc. required to accomplish the job
Tools of Quality
 Materials: Raw materials, parts, pens, paper, etc. used to produce the final product
 Measurements: Data generated from the process that are used to evaluate its
quality
 Environment: The conditions, such as location, time, temperature, and culture in

which the process operates.
Check Sheet:
 A check sheet is nothing but a form used to collect data in such a way that it
makes not only the collection of data easy, but also the analysis of that data
automatic.
 Each mark in the check sheet indicates a defect. The type of defects, number of
defects, and their distribution can be seen at a glance, which makes analysis of
data very quick and easy. Check sheets provide a logical display of data that are
manually derived and yield results from which conclusions can be easily drawn.
 The check sheet is a form (document) used to collect data in real time at the
location where the data is generated. The data it captures can be quantitative or
qualitative. When the information is quantitative, the check sheet is sometimes
called a tally sheet.
 The check sheet is one of the so-called Seven Basic Tools of Quality Control.
Tools of Quality
Flow Chart:
A flow chart is a schematic diagram of a process including all the steps or operations in
the sequence as they occur. The logic here is the act of constructing a flow chart will help
you clarify various steps involved in a process and result in a better overall understanding
of that process. One must understand a process clearly to be better able to identify and
solve its problems. Flow chart can help understand the complete process, identify the
critical stages of a process, locate problem areas, and show relationships between
different steps in a process.
Histogram:
A histogram is a bar chart or a bar graph. It is a graphical depiction of a number of

occurrences of an event. A histogram simply shows the distribution of sample data and
gives some idea about variability of that data. Histogram is a graphic summary of
variation of a process, and quickly and easily determines the underlying distribution of a
process.
Tools of Quality
Pareto Chart:
 A Pareto chart is nothing but a histogram where a number of occurrences of an

event are arranged in descending order. Dr. Joseph M. Juran, the world famous
quality management expert, observed in mid-1920, as a young engineer, that
quality defects are unequal in frequency, that is, when a long list of defects is
arranged in order of frequency, generally, relatively few of the defects account for
the bulk of defectiveness. Dr. Juran named this phenomenon the Pareto
principle.Thus, Pareto chart helps identify those defects that cause most problems,
and by addressing those defects, most of the quality problems can be solved and
improvement be made.
Control Chart:
Tools of Quality
A control chart is a simple graph or chart with time on the horizontal(X) axis vs. the
quality characteristic measured on a vertical (Y) axis, with the control limits for the
quality characteristics measured. In other words, a control chart is a continuous graphic
indication of the state of a process with respect to a quality characteristic being measured.
Let us say you are performing the final inspection of garments. You go out on the
production floor and just before shipping pull a number of samples, inspect them, and
note the number of defects and calculate percent defective for several days.
Scatter Diagram:
A scatter diagram is a plot of one variable vs. another variable, which is dependent on the
first.
• Purpose: to identify correlation between two variables.
• It’s only a graphical representative of relationship.
Benefits:
• Helps identify and test problem causes.
• By knowing which elements of process are related and how they related.
Tools of Quality
Tools of Quality

Garments Defects

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Garments Defects

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Garments Defects

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Garments Defect

 Overall look of the garment.

 Right formation of the garment.

 Feel of the garment.

 Colour fastness of the garment.

 Presentation of the final produced garment.

 Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a garment part from

 During manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers,

Different types of major and minor defects in garments

If zipper is not well attached √

Thread not matching √

Damaged poly bag √

(According to Drucker, the famous management consultant)

1. Prevention costs: The costs associated with personnel engaged in designing,

 Product or service requirements—establishment of specifications for incoming

 Quality planning—creation of plans for quality, reliability, operations, production,

 Quality assurance—creation and maintenance of the quality system.

 Training—development, preparation, and maintenance of programs.

 Statistical process control

 Investment in quality-related information systems

 Quality training and workforce development

 Systems development and management

2. Appraisal costs: The costs associated with measuring, evaluating or auditing of

 Appraisal costs (costs incurred to determine the degree of conformance to quality

 Verification—checking of incoming material, process setup, and products against

 Quality audits—confirmation that the quality system is functioning correctly.

 Supplier rating—assessment and approval of suppliers of products and services.

 Test and inspection of purchased materials

 Setup for test or inspection

 Test and inspection equipment

3. Internal failure costs:

 They could include:

 Waste—performance of unnecessary work or holding of stock as a result of errors,

 Scrap—defective product or material that cannot be repaired, used, or sold.

 Rework or rectification—correction of defective material or errors.

 Failure analysis—activity required to establish the causes of internal product or

4. External failure costs:

 External failure costs are incurred to remedy defects discovered by customers.

 Complaints—all work and costs associated with handling and servicing

 Returns—handling and investigation of rejected or recalled products, including

 Complaints out of warranty

In the context of garment manufacturing, various quality costs can be divided as

1. Prevention costs: Cost of planning various quality functions, cost of evaluating

4. External failure costs: Cost of returned merchandise, cost of claims, cost of

 According to Dana Cound, Vice President of Quality Assurance American Can

 Cost of quality and organizational objectives:

 Effective quality improvement programs can reduce this substantially, thus

Total quality management (TQM)

 Total quality management (TQM) consists of organization-wide efforts to install

 TQM is the art of managing the whole to achieve excellence.

 It is the application of quantitative methods and human resources to improve all

 A philosophy that involves everyone in an organization in a continual effort to

Simple Objective of TQM:

 Extend these concepts to suppliers and to distribution. Treating suppliers as

 Continuous improvement of the business and product process.

 Establish performance measures for the process.

The main distinguishing characteristics of TQM are:

8. Long-term relationship with the suppliers

9. Internal and external customers