Study Unit

Two-Stroke Engine
Lower-End Inspection
By

Ed Abdo
 About the Author

Edward Abdo has been actively involved in the motorcycle and ATV
industry for more than 25 years. He received factory training from
Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, and Yamaha training schools. He has
worked as a motorcycle technician, service manager, and
Service/Parts department director.

After being a chief instructor for several years, Ed is now the

Curriculum Development Manager for the Motorcycle Mechanics
Institute in Phoenix, Arizona. He is also a contract instructor and
administrator for American Honda’s Motorcycle Service Education
Department.

All terms mentioned in this text that are known to be trademarks or service
marks have been appropriately capitalized. Use of a term in this text should not be
regarded as affecting the validity of any trademark or service mark.

Copyright © 2014 by Penn Foster, Inc.

All rights reserved. No part of the material protected by this copyright may be
reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval
system, without permission in writing from the copyright owner.
Requests for permission to make copies of any part of the work should be
mailed to Copyright Permissions, Penn Foster, 925 Oak Street, Scranton,
Pennsylvania 18515.
Printed in the United States of America
12/15/15
This study unit introduces you to the procedures used for
disassembling the lower end of a two-stroke air-cooled or
liquid-cooled motorcycle engine. Lower-end engine disas-
sembly is a process in which all of the engine parts located
below the cylinder are removed, inspected, and replaced
when necessary.

Preview
The lower end of an engine may be disassembled to make
needed repairs, or as a part of a complete engine rebuild.
For a complete engine rebuild, the lower-end disassembly
and inspection is done after completing the top-end disas-
sembly and inspection as described in the previous study
unit. During an engine rebuild, the engine is completely
cleaned and restored to a “like new” condition, using new
parts when necessary.
This study unit begins by teaching you the important pre-
liminary steps that you must take before disassembling an
engine. You’ll then go through a sample disassembly proce-
dure to familiarize you with the steps used to disassemble
almost all two-stroke engines. This disassembly procedure is
illustrated with real engine examples.
Throughout the disassembly discussion, we’ll point out the
special tools that are used in the process and provide you
with some review information about the function of certain
engine components. Following disassembly, you’ll learn how
to inspect the two-stroke lower-end engine components.
Finally, you’ll be led through the lower-end reassembly
procedure and the process to reinstall the engine into the
chassis.

iii
 When you complete this study unit, you’ll be
able to
• Describe the procedures used to disassemble the lower
Remember to regularly
end of an air-cooled or a liquid-cooled two-stroke engine
check your student that has a vertical crankcase design
portal. Your instructor
• Identify the special tools used to disassemble the lower
may post additional
end of a two-stroke engine
resources that you
can access to enhance • Visually identify the components in the lower end of a
your learning two-stroke engine
experience. • Inspect the various parts of the crankshaft and trans-
mission for damage or wear
• Describe the procedures required to reassemble the
lower end of a two-stroke vertical-split crankcase-design
engine
• List the steps required to install an engine into a chassis
• Describe what checks you should make before starting a
rebuilt engine
INTRODUCTION 1
Common Lower-End Engine Failures 1
Repair Procedures 3

TWO-STROKE ENGINE REMOVAL 4

Contents
Cleaning the Engine and Draining the Fluids 5
Removing the Chassis and Body Components 7
Removing the Engine from the Chassis 9

TWO-STROKE ENGINE LOWER-END DISASSEMBLY 11

Removing the Magneto Rotor and Stator 11
Removing the Clutch and External Components 13
Opening the Crankcase and Removing
Components 16

TWO-STROKE ENGINE LOWER-END INSPECTION 19

Inspecting Engine Crankcases 19
Inspecting and Replacing Engine Seals 19
Inspecting and Replacing Engine Bearings 21
Inspecting the Clutch 23
Inspecting and Measuring the Multipiece
Crankshaft 23
Inspecting the Transmission 27
Transmission Power Flow and Symptoms 33

TWO-STROKE ENGINE REASSEMBLY PROCEDURES 36

Installing Crankcase Components and Closing
the Crankcase 36
Installing the Clutch and External Components 38
Installing the Magneto Rotor and Stator 42
Bench Testing 43

TWO-STROKE ENGINE INSTALLATION 45

Installing the Engine into the Chassis 45
Installing Chassis and Body Components 47
Starting the Engine 48
Breaking in the Engine 49

ROAD TEST ANSWERS 51

EXAMINATION 53

v
Two-Stroke Engine
Low-End Inspection

INTRODUCTION
The lower end of a two-stroke engine is a section of the engine
that often needs repair. It’s important that you understand
how to disassemble the engine right down to the crankshaft.
It’s also important that you know how to inspect the engine,
do any necessary repair work, and reassemble the engine cor-
rectly. In this study unit, you’ll find a step-by-step description
of what to do, when to do it, and how to do it.
We’ve used a Suzuki DS 80 air-cooled motorcycle and a Suzuki
RM 125 liquid-cooled motorcycle as the models in most of our
illustrations in this study unit. Other two-stroke motorcycles
and ATVs may vary somewhat, but the basic principles of dis-
assembly, repair, and reassembly remain the same.
Repair of the lower-end assembly always requires that the
engine be removed from the chassis. Therefore, you should
first be sure the malfunctioning component is located in the
lower engine assembly. After all, you’d never want to remove
an engine from its chassis and disassemble it completely,
just to find out that the failed component didn’t require any
major disassembly.

Common Lower-End Engine Failures

The following is a brief discussion of some areas in the lower-

end assembly where malfunctions commonly occur.

1
 Leaking Engine Seals
A leaking oil seal sometimes requires that the engine’s lower
end be disassembled. Always confirm that the replacement of
the faulty oil seals requires complete disassembly before tear-
ing down the lower end. You can do this by checking the
appropriate service manual before you begin the work.

Worn Crankshaft Bearings

Crankshaft bearings are used to mount the crankshaft
assembly into the crankcase. Bearing failure is indicated by a
rough, growling sound. Use a mechanic’s stethoscope to help
pinpoint the location of the bad bearing. Bad bearings may
also allow excessive up-and-down movement of the crank-
shaft, or even prevent the engine from rotating. Very bad
bearings can sometimes seize, meaning that they rotate with
great difficulty, or not at all.

Worn Connecting-Rod Bearings

Connecting-rod bearings are used to allow the connecting rod
to rotate as the crankshaft assembly turns. The following are
some symptoms of bad connecting-rod bearings.
• The engine knocks.

• The engine starts, but won’t run freely.

• The engine can’t be rotated manually (it’s locked up).

Any of these symptoms will necessitate disassembly and

repair of the lower end of the engine.

Transmission Problems
Another reason to disassemble the lower end of an engine
may be because of transmission problems. Both the engine
and transmission of most two-stroke motorcycle and ATV
engines are contained in a single casting (engine case). The
procedure for separating the case is similar for most engines.
This study unit includes the disassembly, inspection, and
assembly of the transmission. Any suspected transmission
malfunction should be investigated while you have the engine

2 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

case opened. Because the clutch commonly wears out in a
two-stroke engine, we’ve included clutch repair procedures,
even though the clutch doesn’t require the disassembly of the
lower end or removal of the engine from the chassis.

Repair Procedures
Being alert to other problems when you’re performing repairs
on an engine will help you to become a fully competent
motorcycle and ATV technician. In this study unit, we’ll list
the necessary procedures to disassemble, inspect, repair, and
replace worn parts in single-cylinder two-stroke air-cooled
and liquid-cooled engines. Most of these procedures also
apply to other motorcycle and ATV two-stroke engines that
you’ll work on as a technician.
As we’ve mentioned before, be sure that the motorcycle or
ATV is clean before you begin any disassembly work. Use a
water-soluble degreaser, which you can buy at a motorcycle
dealership. Use the degreaser according to the manufac-
turer’s directions. Remember that dirt or foreign particles
can ruin your repairs if allowed to enter the working parts
of the engine.
The disassembly of the lower end of a two-stroke engine
requires that the top end be removed first. Therefore, we’ll
assume that the top end of the engine has been removed,
using the procedures in the previous study unit.
The procedures in this study unit are general in nature and
not intended to be used for actual disassembly and repair.
Their purpose is to familiarize you with the types of activities
you’ll encounter. Always refer to the appropriate motorcycle
or ATV service guide for maintenance information. The serv-
ice guide contains all the information to do the job correctly,
including: detailed instructions for the specific make and
model of motorcycle or ATV, special tools, and service tips.
Above all, the service guide contains the appropriate safety
information.
Before we can disassemble the lower end of the engine, the
engine must be removed from the chassis. So, let’s get
started by learning how to remove the engine, and then we’ll
learn how to inspect, repair, and reinstall the engine.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 3

 TWO-STROKE ENGINE REMOVAL
As we discussed in the previous study unit, the two-stroke
engine top-end assembly can be removed and inspected with-
out removing it from the chassis. However, to disassemble
the two-stroke engine lower-end components, such as the
crankshaft or transmission, you must first remove the engine
from the chassis. The procedure to remove a two-stroke
motorcycle or ATV engine from its chassis is quite simple
when a systematic approach is used.
The procedure to remove most motorcycle engines from the
chassis is consistent in that certain parts are removed in a
pattern. This pattern generally applies to all makes and mod-
els of motorcycles and ATVs. The parts to be removed usually
include, but aren’t limited to, the following:
• Battery (when applicable). This is a safety measure to
prevent a possible fire due to an accidental spark ignit-
ing spilled gasoline.

• Seat and frame covers

• Fuel tank (to free control cables, or to access a top

engine-mounting bolt)

• Fairings and bodywork (cosmetic covers)

• Chain

• Control cables

• Ignition and other electrical wiring that may be attached

to the engine

• Engine mounting bolts

Certain models may require that some smaller parts be dis-

mantled to facilitate removal of the engine.
It’s not possible to list each part for each brand and model.
Refer to your service manual for the exact information con-
cerning engine removal. You’ll need to remove only those
components that interfere with removing the engine or
installing it back into the chassis.

4 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

We’ll follow the procedures for removing the engine from our
example motorcycles—the liquid-cooled Suzuki RM 125
(Figure 1) (and the air-cooled Suzuki DS 80 (Figure 2).
Although our examples are both single-cylinder motorcycles,
the basic procedure for disassembling a two-stroke ATV is
the same. We’ll illustrate the specific differences between
removing the engines from each of these machines, but as
you’ll see, there are many similarities as we remove the
engine from the chassis. We’ll follow the procedures in steps
to help you to better understand the correct way to remove
an engine from an air-cooled two-stroke motorcycle as well
as the special procedures to remove a liquid-cooled engine.

FIGURE 1—The Suzuki

RM 125 Motorcycle is
being used for our
liquid-cooled two
stroke engine example.
(Courtesy of American
Suzuki Motor
Corporation)

FIGURE 2—The Suzuki

DS 80 motorcycle is
being used for our
air-cooled two-stroke
engine example.
(Courtesy of American
Suzuki Motor
Corporation)

Cleaning the Engine and Draining

the Fluids
Before attempting to do any work on a motorcycle or ATV,
it’s very important to thoroughly clean the engine and the
surrounding components with a suitable cleaner. There are

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 5

 many types of cleaning agents available at your local motor-
cycle or ATV dealership. You’ll find that disassembly is much
easier when you’re working with a clean piece of equipment.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example proce-
dure are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

1 Drain the transmission oil to

prevent any chance of spilling
oil when you remove the engine
from the chassis. Place a suit-
able container under the oil
drain plug. Use a wrench to
remove the oil drain plug and
allow the oil to flow into the
container.

6 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

2 On liquid-cooled engines,
place a suitable container
under the coolant drain plug.
Use a wrench to remove the
coolant drain plug and allow
the coolant to flow into the
container.

Note: If you remove the radiator

cap before draining the coolant,
you’ll find that the coolant will
drain faster.

Removing the Chassis and

Body Components
Depending on the particular motorcycle or ATV, certain chas-
sis and body components need to be removed before the
engine can be removed from the chassis.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example proce-
dure are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

1 Remove the seat and side cov-

ers including the radiator
covers on liquid-cooled engines.
On some ATVs, it may be nec-
essary to remove the fenders.
2 Remove the battery (applicable
models).
3 Remove the fuel lines, tank,
and tank brackets.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 7

4 Remove the coolant lines and
radiator on liquid-cooled
models.
5 Remove the spark plug from
the cylinder head.
6 Disconnect the hoses and control
cables from the carburetor.
Remove the mounting hardware
securing the carburetor to the
engine and remove the carburetor.
7 Remove the engine sprocket
cover.

8 Remove the mounting hardware

securing the exhaust system to
the engine and chassis. Remove
the exhaust system.

Note: A trick for easier removal

of the engine sprocket bolt or
nut, is to put the engine in gear
and apply the rear brake firmly
before removing the drive chain.
9 Find the master link on the drive
chain. Open the master link and
remove the drive chain from the
engine and wheel sprockets.
10 Remove the engine sprocket.
11 Remove all control cables and
electrical wiring, as necessary,
to free the engine.

8 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

Removing the Engine from
the Chassis
With the fluids drained and the chassis and body compo-
nents removed, the engine can now be removed from the
chassis.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example proce-
dure are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

1 The number and location of

engine mounting bolts is differ-
ent on various models of
motorcycles and ATVs. Some
engines have a swing-arm pivot
bolt that serves as both a
mounting bolt and a swing-arm
bolt. Carefully remove the
engine mounting bolts.
2 Depending on the particular
motorcycle or ATV, the engine
will probably be removed from
either the left or right side of
the chassis. Refer to the service
manual to determine the proper
removal procedure.
Note: A motorcycle or ATV
engine can weigh over 100
pounds. It’s advisable to obtain
assistance when removing the
engine from the chassis.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 9

 Road Test 1
At the end of each section of Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection, you’ll be asked to
check your understanding of what you’ve just read by completing a “Road Test.” Writing
the answers to these questions will help you review what you’ve learned so far. Please
complete Road Test 1 now.

1. Why should you drain all of the fluids before you take an engine out of the chassis?

__________________________________________________________

2. True or False? Some two-stroke motorcycles use a swing-arm pivot bolt to help hold the
engine in the chassis.

3. Before attempting to do any work on a motorcycle or ATV, you should always thoroughly
_______________ the machine.

4. Name at least three types of engine problems that would require disassembly of the lower end
of the engine.

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

5. On a liquid-cooled engine, what should you remove (besides the drain bolt) to help allow the
coolant to drain from the engine?

__________________________________________________________

Check your answers with those on page 51.

10 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

TWO-STROKE ENGINE
LOWER-END DISASSEMBLY
With the engine removed from the chassis, we’re ready to
disassemble the lower end of the engine. We’re assuming
that the top end of the engine has already been removed, as
discussed in the previous study unit.
The Suzuki RM 125 and Suzuki DS 80 that we’re using for
illustrative purposes both use a vertically-split crankcase
assembly. The following is an overview of the steps necessary
to disassemble the lower end of the engine for inspection
and repair.

Removing the Magneto Rotor

and Stator
Before you can begin a total disassembly of the engine, the
magneto rotor—also known as a flywheel—must be removed.
Magneto rotors are easily damaged and must be handled with
care. Most rotors require the use of a special tool called a
rotor puller (or flywheel puller) to remove the rotor without
damaging it.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example proce-
dure are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

1 Remove the bolts securing the

magneto rotor cover and remove
the cover.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 11

2 Using a special tool called a
rotor puller to keep the rotor
from turning, remove the rotor
fastener nut.

3 Use the rotor puller special tool

to remove the rotor.
Note: Don’t attempt to impro-
vise. Use the appropriate tool
to avoid damaging the magneto
rotor. Above all, don’t try to pry
the rotor with a screwdriver
and never hit the rotor with a
hammer.
4 Remove the Woodruff key from
the crankshaft so that it isn’t
misplaced.
5 Place all of the rotor assembly
parts together and set them
aside in a safe place until you
are ready to reinstall the rotor.
6 Remove the stator securing
screws and remove the magneto
stator.

12 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

Removing the Clutch and External
Components
The clutch and related components are located on the oppo-
site side of the engine. You’ll begin by removing the clutch
cover to access and remove the clutch components. When
you’ve completed the removal of the clutch and external com-
ponents, you’ll be ready to open the crankcase.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example proce-
dure are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

1 Remove the clutch cover secur-

ing screws and remove the
clutch cover.

2 Once the clutch cover is

removed, the water pump will
be visible.
Some water pumps are inte-
grated into the clutch cover
while others are a completely
separate component. Do not
remove the water pump.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 13

3 Remove the clutch spring
securing screws and remove the
clutch springs.
4 Lift the pressure plate out of
the clutch assembly.

5 Attach a holding tool to the

clutch inner hub.
6 Remove the clutch nut.

7 Remove the clutch plates and

friction disks.
8 Remove the clutch inner and
outer hub.

14 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

9 Remove the retaining ring and
remove the idler gear from the
shaft.

10 Remove the kickstarter drive

gear assembly.

11 Remove the crankshaft drive

gear holding nut.
12 Remove the primary drive gear
and the drive gear key (if appli-
cable).

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 15

13 Remove the gearshift shaft and
its associated parts from the
engine case.

Opening the Crankcase and Removing

Components
With the vertical crankcase design, the top end of the engine
must be removed before the crankcase halves can be sepa-
rated. This is because the cylinder is attached to both halves
of the crankcase. The following procedure describes how to
open the crankcase and remove the components.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example proce-
dure are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

1 Remove the crankcase securing

bolts.

16 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

2 Using a special pulling tool sim-
ilar to the one shown, separate
the crankcase halves. As the
crankcase halves are separated,
the crankshaft and transmis-
sion will remain in one side of
the crankcase assembly.
Note: On most models, washers
are used to align the crankshaft
and gears. Use care as you pull
the crankcase halves apart. Be
sure to note the correct position
for each spacer. The engine
must be reassembled with these
spacers in their original posi-
tion to ensure correct alignment
of the crankshaft and gears.

3 Remove the transmission from

the crankcase by removing the
gearshift fork shafts, transmis-
sion gears, forks, and the
gearshift drum. Be careful not
to misplace any transmission
parts.

4 Using the special pulling tool

that was used to separate the
crankcase halves, remove the
crankshaft from the crankcase.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 17

 Road Test 2
1. What major top-end components must be removed before you can separate the crankcase on
a vertical-crankcase two-stroke engine design?

2. Which ignition system component is found behind the magneto rotor?

3. True or False? A screwdriver is considered to be an acceptable tool to help remove a magneto

rotor.

4. True or False? The last component to be removed from the engine crankcase is the transmis-
sion main shaft.

Check your answers with those on page 51.

18 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

TWO-STROKE ENGINE
LOWER-END INSPECTION
Now that the lower end of the engine has been disassembled,
it’s time to inspect each component for damage and wear.
Although you may be trying to locate a particular problem,
you should carefully inspect all of the engine components
while the engine is disassembled. Because a complete engine
disassembly is a lengthy procedure that isn’t done frequently,
it’s important to make sure that the job is done right and that
there are no existing problems or soon-to-be problems as well.
We’ll learn how to inspect the lower end of a two-stroke
engine by beginning with the engine crankcase.

Inspecting the Engine Crankcase

The engine crankcase halves should be closely inspected for
cracks, loose fitting bearings, and worn-out fastener anchor-
ing points. If there are stripped bolt holes, they may be
repaired by using a special thread repair kit that reconditions
the hole. The Heli-Coil and the Time-Sert are two popular
methods of thread repair and should be available from your
local motorcycle dealership or an automotive tool supplier.

Inspecting and Replacing

Engine Seals
Engine seals are located on all two-stroke engine shafts that
rotate and are exposed to the outside atmosphere (Figure 3).
You must inspect all seals to verify that they are in good con-
dition. Inspect the oil-seal lips for wear and damage. Damage
to the lip of the oil seal may result in leakage of the air-and-
fuel mixture or oil. Inspect the seals very carefully. If a seal
isn’t in perfect condition, replace it. The rubber of the seal
must be “live.” That is, the lip of the seal must be soft and
springy. Most seals have a small coil spring which fits on the
outer side of the seal lip. Be sure this spring is in place.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 19

 FIGURE 3—A transmis-
sion seal is pictured
here. (Courtesy of
American Suzuki Motor
Corporation)

Seals are removed using a special tool, as seen in Figure 4. If

you remove a seal, replace it with a new one. Never try to
reinstall an old seal.

FIGURE 4—A special tool

is used to remove seals.
(Courtesy of American
Suzuki Motor
Corporation)

A new seal must be installed evenly in the hole. Use a mallet or

a special seal installation tool to tap a new seal into place, as
shown in Figure 5. If a seal doesn’t fit correctly, the oil or air-
and-fuel mixture can leak. Be sure to install the seal into the
case properly. The manufacturer’s identification number is usu-
ally on the side away from the bearing or shaft to be sealed.

FIGURE 5—Seals are

installed using a special
tool like the one shown
here. (Courtesy of
American Suzuki Motor
Corporation)

20 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

Some engine seals are located on the inside of the crankcase
cavity, and can be replaced only when the crankcase halves
are separated. Therefore, it’s always a good idea to install
new seals whenever you have the crankcase opened. You
should always install new seals if you have any doubt about
the condition of the old seals. You should also install new
seals whenever you replace bearings.

Inspecting and Replacing

Engine Bearings
The most common bearing that you’ll find in a motorcycle or
ATV two-stroke engine is the ball bearing. Remember that
bearings usually make a low growling sound when failing.
You can inspect the play of the bearing inner race by hand
while it’s still mounted in the crankcase (Figure 6). You can
also rotate the inner race by hand and inspect it for any
abnormal noise or lack of smooth operation.

FIGURE 6—You can

check for play, and feel
the operation of the
bearing to verify that
it’s in good condition.
(Courtesy of American
Suzuki Motor
Corporation)

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 21

 Visually inspect the races, balls, or rollers of the bearing. If
they show signs of wear, chips, cracks, or damage to the
hard bearing surface, they must be replaced.
If a bearing isn’t in perfect condition, it should be replaced.
To replace any two-stroke engine bearing, you must first
remove the old bearing (Figure 7). Removal of crankcase ball
bearings sometimes requires heating the case. The best way
to heat the case is to place the case on a hot plate. This
expands the aluminum and allows the bearings to be pressed
or tapped out. Heating the case also ruins the seals, which is
another reason why the seals should be replaced along with
the bearings.

FIGURE 7—This illustra-

tion shows a bearing
puller being used to
remove a bearing from
the crankcase. (Courtesy
of American Suzuki
Motor Corporation)

Before installing new bearings, put the bearings in a freezer

to shrink them. Heat the crankcase to expand the case metal
before installing the bearings.
Ball bearings are held in the case by a tight fit which is
called an interference fit. Placing cool bearings into a warm
case makes for easy installation while ensuring a tight fit
when both the bearing and case have returned to a normal
temperature. This is because the cooled bearings expand as
they warm up, and the warmed case shrinks as it cools
down. A special tool, like the one shown in Figure 8, should
be used to install the bearing evenly. Be sure to strike the
bearing only on its outer cage or you’ll damage the bearing
inner cage.

22 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

FIGURE 8—The installa-
tion of bearings is
similar to the installation
of seals, using a special
tool. (Courtesy of
American Suzuki Motor
Corporation)

Inspecting the Clutch

The clutch is one of the most common two-stroke engine
components to wear out or fail. Although lower-end engine
disassembly isn’t required to remove the clutch, the clutch
must be removed to disassemble the lower end. Refer back to
your study unit on Clutches, Transmissions, and Drives for the
procedure to inspect the clutch. A thorough clutch inspection
should include the following checks and measurements:
• Length of springs

• Thickness of friction and steel plates

• Warpage of clutch plates

• Smoothness of clutch basket and clutch center grooves

• Wear of clutch basket bearing or bushing

• Wear or cracks in clutch hub and primary driven-gear

assembly

Inspecting and Measuring the

Multipiece Crankshaft
Multipiece crankshafts are normally rebuildable. The crank-
shaft connecting-rod lower bearings are usually of the
roller-type and are replaced as one unit. The unit consists of
rollers, cage, and crank pin as illustrated in Figure 9. Many
times the connecting rod is also part of this replacement unit.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 23

FIGURE 9—This illustration
shows the components of
a multipiece tow-stroke
crankshaft.

Replacement of the connecting-rod lower-bearing unit requires

separation of the flywheels. Before separating the flywheels,
measure their overall width at a point on each side of the
crank pin, as illustrated in Figure 10. Use a micrometer for
this measurement. Careful measurement is necessary to
ensure the correct replacement of the spacers used to align
the crankshaft in the crankcase. The flywheels must be
exactly the same dimensions when reassembled as when they
were disassembled (as per manufacturer’s specifications).

FIGURE 10—Measure
the overall width of the
flywheels at this point
before disassembly.
(Courtesy of American
Suzuki Corporation)

24 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

To separate the crankshaft flywheels, it’s best to use a
hydraulic press and special tools which consist of strong
steel inserts. The inserts are placed between the flywheels
and hold one of them securely in position. Pressure is then
applied to the crank pin to force it out of the securely held
flywheel. After the rod and bearings are removed, the crank
pin is pressed out of the other flywheel from the outside,
toward the opposite flywheel.
To replace a crank pin, carefully align it so that it can be
pressed into one of the flywheels. Make sure it fits squarely
before you attempt to press it in. Lubricate the rod and bear-
ings and install them onto the crank pin. Also be sure to
replace the connecting-rod spacers (crank-pin washers)
before pressing the flywheels together. Align the other fly-
wheel and press it onto the other end of the crank pin.
A final alignment of the flywheels is necessary to ensure that
the axles will run absolutely true in the axle bearings. The
center of each flywheel axle must remain perpendicular to
the center of the connecting rod at all times. Alignment
requires the use of a special tool called a crankshaft align-
ment jig (Figure 11). The crankshaft is placed in the jig and
rotated. Dial indicators are positioned against the crankshaft

FIGURE 11—Checking
Crankshaft Run-Out.
(Copyright by American
Honda Motor Co. Inc. and
reprinted with permission)

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 25

 axle surfaces. Rotating the crankshaft shows any misalign-
ment of the crankshaft halves on the dial indicators and is
known as crankshaft run-out. Run-out is the total dial read-
ing and must be within the manufacturer’s specifications
that are given in the appropriate service manual. Excessive
crankshaft run-out is often responsible for abnormal engine
vibration and shortens the life of the two-stroke engine if not
corrected.
Figure 12 shows correct and incorrect crankshaft align-
ment. If the alignment check using the jig indicates that the
crankshaft must be aligned, one or both crank halves will
need to be moved so that the crankshaft is in alignment. If
the crankshaft must be realigned, the higher of the lopsided
flywheels should be lightly tapped with a brass mallet.
Brace the lower flywheel on a firm surface as you tap the
higher wheel to align the shafts. Note: Be sure to check
whether the engine you’re working on contains soft shell
cranks. These soft shell cranks should never be tapped to
true to crank wheels. Doing so dents the shell and ruins
the crankshaft.

FIGURE 12—This illustra-

tion shows an exaggerated
view of correctly and
incorrectly aligned
crankshafts.

When aligning a crankshaft, remember these points:

• Always use eye protection and gloves.

• Use light taps.

• Don’t hit over the crank pin hole in the flywheel.

26 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

Check the alignment in the crankshaft alignment jig with
each adjustment until the dial indicators show that the axles
are in proper alignment. Cranks must be true to within .001
of total runout.

Inspecting the Transmission

When you opened the crankcase, you removed the transmis-
sion and set it aside. Now we’ll disassemble the transmission,
inspect the transmission gears and other components, and
then reassemble the transmission and return it to the
crankcase.

Disassembling the Transmission

When you remove the gears and other parts from the trans-
mission shaft, it’s a good idea to slip them onto a wire or long
screwdriver to keep from losing them and to keep them in the
proper order for replacement (Figure 13). Don’t expand the
retaining rings any more than necessary for removal. To
remove a retaining ring, expand it and pull it off using the
gear behind it. It’s a good idea to always replace any retain-
ing rings that are removed because they can be weakened if
spread too far out during removal. To remove the transmis-
sion bearings, it may be necessary to use a bearing puller as
pictured in Figure 14.

FIGURE 13—Install the

transmission parts on a
long screwdriver or piece
of wire as you remove
them to ease the assem-
bly process. (Copyright by
American Honda Motor
Co. Inc. and reprinted
with permission)

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 27

 FIGURE 14—Some shafts
will require the use of a
bearing puller to remove
bearings with a tight
interference fit. The
puller pushes against
the end of the shaft to
remove the bearing.
(Courtesy Kawasaki
Motor Corp., U.S.A.)

Inspecting the Transmission Components

When inspecting the transmission components, always
carefully inspect each and every component, not just the
components with obvious damage. For instance, if you find
a burned shift fork, also check the gear and shift drum for
damage as well.
Check the gears for damage or excessive wear. Also inspect
the gear dogs or slots for wear or damage (Figure 15). Measure
the inside diameter of the gear (unless it’s a splined gear)
using an inside micrometer. Check the measurement with
the appropriate specification given in the service manual.

FIGURE 15—Check the

gear dogs for damage
and measure the inside
diameter of all non-
splined gears.
(Copyright by American
Honda Motor Co. Inc.
and reprinted with
permission)

28 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

Inspect the gear bushings for wear or damage. Measure the
inside and outside dimensions of the bushings to verify that
they are within specifications.
Carefully inspect the main shaft and countershaft at their
splined grooves. Check the shaft sliding surfaces for abnor-
mal wear or damage. Measure the shafts for the proper
dimensions as specified in the service manual (Figure 16).

FIGURE 16—The trans-

mission shafts should be
measured at these loca-
tions. (Copyright by
American Honda Motor
Co. Inc. and reprinted
with permission)

The shift drum is a critical component of the transmission

that should be inspected but is often overlooked. Many shift-
ing problems may relate to a damaged shift drum. Check the
shifting fork guide grooves for damage, such as a small chip
or scoring (Figure 17). Also, inspect the shift-drum bearing to
ensure that the drum can turn freely.

FIGURE 17—The shift

guide grooves are often
overlooked but should
be inspected very closely
for wear or damage.
(Copyright by American
Honda Motor Co. Inc.
and reprinted with per-
mission)

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 29

 The next transmission component to be inspected is the
shift fork. Although transmission problems aren’t very com-
mon on most modern two-stroke motorcycles and ATVs,
when a problem does occur, the shift fork is usually damaged
also. Check the shift fork for deformation or abnormal wear.
Use a Vernier caliper to measure the fork at the locations
illustrated in Figure 18 and compare the measurements to
the factory specifications.

FIGURE 18—Use a
Vernier caliper to meas-
ure the fork at the
locations shown here.
(Copyright by American
Suzuki Motor
Corporation)

A feeler gauge can also be placed in the shifting fork groove

of the sliding gear to be measured for the proper clearance
(Figure 19). The shift fork shaft must be checked for size and
straightness—it should be measured at the areas where the
shift forks slide.

FIGURE 19—Use a feeler

gague to check for
proper clearance
between the shift fork
and the sliding gear.
(Copyright by American
Honda Motor Co. Inc.
and reprinted with per-
mission)

Assembling the Transmission

Before assembling the transmission, be sure that all parts
are properly cleaned. Next, apply a molybdenum disulfide
grease (molylube) to all sliding surfaces of each shaft before

30 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

beginning the assembly process. This will ensure that there
is adequate initial lubrication in the transmission.
Reassemble all of the transmission gears into the proper posi-
tion on the appropriate shaft. All service manuals contain an
exploded view of the transmission to assist with proper assem-
bly of the gears, bushings, thrust washers, and retaining rings.
Be sure to properly align the oil holes in the bushings to allow
oil flow to the gears, as shown in Figure 20.

FIGURE 20—Make sure

that all oil holes line up
properly when you
assemble the transmis-
sion. (Copyright by
American Honda Motor
Co. Inc. and reprinted
with permission)

When you install the thrust washers, be sure that the cham-
fered side faces away from the thrust load side of the gear
(Figure 21). Also, align the retaining ring with one of the
grooves of the spline. If the retaining ring rotates easily in the
groove, replace it. If the retaining ring doesn’t seat properly
and comes out, it can cause serious transmission failure.
Some gears use lock washer systems that have a splined
washer and a lock washer that are engaged, as illustrated in
Figure 22.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 31

 FIGURE 21—The proper
installation of a thrust
washer and retaining
ring is shown here.
(Copyright by American
Honda Motor Co. Inc.
and reprinted with
permission)

FIGURE 22—Some trans-

mission shafts use lock
washers. (Copyright by
American Honda Motor
Co. Inc. and reprinted
with permission)

Shift forks are marked to indicate their proper location. A

fork marked with an “L” goes on the left side of the transmis-
sion. A shift fork marked with a “C” goes in the center, and a
fork marked “R” goes on the right side.

32 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

After the transmission is properly assembled it’s placed into
the vertical crankcase as an assembly. You should then
lubricate the transmission with engine oil while rotating the
shafts, as illustrated in Figure 23.

FIGURE 23—Rotate the

shafts and lubricate all of
the gears and shafts with
engine oil. (Copyright by
American Honda Motor
Co. Inc. and reprinted
with permission)

Transmission Power Flow

and Symptoms
Now is a good time to review how transmissions operate and
also to remember some of the problems that can occur in
transmissions.
Motorcycles use constant-mesh transmissions, which means
that all gears rotate at all times. Power is developed at the
engine crankshaft and is transmitted through the clutch to
the transmission main shaft. The main shaft transmits power
through different sets of gears to the countershaft. Refer back
to your study unit on Clutches, Transmissions, and Drives for
a description of transmissions. Review the information about
the gears and how they are moved to change the gear ratio
between the main shaft and countershaft.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 33

 Some transmission problems can be diagnosed by the symp-
toms reported by the operator. Again, refer back to your study
unit on Clutches, Transmissions, and Drives for a discussion
of transmission symptoms and probable causes. The more
common symptoms of transmission problems that you
should be familiar with include
• Difficulty shifting

• Inability to shift gears

• Strange sounds

• Jumping out of gear

34 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

 Road Test 3
1. A ____________ is used to disassemble the multipiece crankshaft.

2. The proper measuring tool to check for the thickness of the clutch friction plates is a
____________.

3. If a shift fork is visually worn or damaged, what other parts, if any, should be inspected?

__________________________________________________________

4. What does a shift fork with a marking of “C” indicate?

__________________________________________________________

5. What can be used to verify that the transmission is properly reassembled, before you install it
back into the crankcases?

__________________________________________________________

6. A low growling sound when the two-stroke motorcycle or ATV is in gear and rolling will
normally indicate what type of engine failure?

__________________________________________________________

7. How are ball bearings held in place in the crankcase?

__________________________________________________________

8. What should you use to help heat up the engine cases to help install a bearing?

__________________________________________________________

Check your answers with those on page 51.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 35

 TWO-STROKE ENGINE REASSEM-
BLY PROCEDURES
Reassembly of the lower end of the engine is essentially done
in the reverse order of disassembly. The reassembly proce-
dure isn’t difficult and a successful repair can be expected if
care is used. Before reassembly, you should thoroughly clean
all parts in a high-flashpoint cleaning solvent. When you’re
ready to begin the assembly process, be sure to stay organ-
ized and keep the different engine components separated to
make your job more efficient.

Installing Crankcase Components and

Closing the Crankcase
The crankshafts used in vertical two-stroke engine
crankcases are usually the multipiece design. The crankshaft
should be fully assembled with the connecting rod attached
and ready for installation.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example proce-
dure are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

1 Install the crankshaft into the

crankcase using any special
installation tools required in the
service guide.
Note: Never attempt to fit the
crankshaft into the crankcase
by hitting it with a hammer of
any kind. Always use the spe-
cial tools identified in the
service guide; otherwise the
crankshaft alignment may be
affected.
2 Lightly coat all moving parts of
the crankshaft with engine oil.

36 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

3 Install the transmission into the
crankcase as a single unit. (In
most cases, this includes the
main shaft, countershaft, shift
drum, and shift forks.)
4 Rotate the transmission shafts
and lubricate all moving com-
ponents with engine oil.
5 Ensure that the transmission is
in the neutral position and that
all shafts rotate freely.
6 Refer to the service guide to
install other components in the
lower end of the engine as nec-
essary, such as
• Gear shift linkages
• Kick starter components
• Primary-drive chains or gears
• Idler gears
• Electrical components

7 Ensure that all old gaskets or

crankcase sealant has been
properly removed from the
crankcase halves. Apply new
crankcase-sealing compound or
gaskets as recommended by the
manufacturer.
8 Install any dowels or alignment
pins and O-rings into the
crankcase half containing the
transmission and crankshaft.
9 Check that all shafts rotate
freely.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 37

10 Use the dowels or alignment
pins to align and install the
other crankcase half on the
crankcase half containing the
transmission and crankshaft.
11 Install the fasteners that hold
the crankcase halves together.
Note: Not all crankcase fasten-
ers are the same length. Be
sure each fastener is in its
proper hole. If you insert a fas-
tener that’s too long into a hole,
you can easily break the alu-
minum case. If you install a
fastener that’s too short, you
can easily strip the threads.
12 Tighten the fasteners in the
proper sequence and torque all
fasteners as specified in the
service guide.
13 Check that the shafts still rotate
freely. If there is any abnormal
resistance in a shaft, tap on the
shaft using a plastic hammer. If
there is still resistance, disas-
semble the crankcase to locate
the problem. One of the most
common causes is a misplaced
spacer or thrust washer.

Installing the Clutch and External Components

After the crankcase is assembled, it’s time to install the external components. We’ll
begin by installing the external shifting components. The gear positioning lever, neu-
tral detent, and shift drum cam are usually assembled at this time.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example procedure are courtesy of the
American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

38 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

1 Install the gear shift shaft. Be
sure to correctly fit the shift
shaft spring or the transmission
won’t shift properly.

2 Install the shift shaft with the

center teeth of the gear mated
with the center teeth on the
shift drum cam.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 39

3 Install the oil pump assembly
onto the crankcase. Fit the
driven piece into the oil pump
drive piece, before installing the
pump.
4 Install the primary-drive gear.
Ensure that the key is properly
aligned with the gear key-way
slot. Tighten the gear retaining
fastener to the proper torque.

5 Check the kick-start mecha-

nism components. Ensure that
all components, including the
catch mechanism, and spring,
are in good condition.

6 Install the kick-start mecha-

nism (except for the kick-start
lever) onto the crankcase. Be
sure to hook the return spring.
Make certain that all spacers
are in their correct places. The
kick starter won’t operate prop-
erly if the spacers are not
correctly installed.

40 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

 Note: It’s good practice to install
the cylinder assembly before in-
stalling the clutch. This pre-
vents possible damage to the
piston if the engine rotates
when you tighten the clutch
hub retaining nut.
7 Install the clutch outer and
clutch center. Install the clutch
hub retaining nut. Lock the nut
by bending the tongue of the
lock washer over a flat side of
the nut.

8 Insert the clutch friction and

metal plates one at a time into
the clutch assembly.
9 Install the clutch spring bolts in
a diagonal sequence, as shown.

10 Replace the cover gasket and

install the clutch cover.
11 Tighten the clutch cover
fasteners.
12 Before installing the engine in
the frame, make sure there are
no leaks in any of the engine
seals or gaskets. Even a small
air leak can result in a seized
engine.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 41

 Installing the Magneto Rotor
and Stator
When installing the magneto components, remember that
most rotors have a line to mark the proper ignition timing.
You’ll learn more about motorcycle and ATV electrical sys-
tems, including ignition systems, in a later study unit.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example proce-
dure are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

1 Install the magneto stator into

the crankcase assembly and
secure it with the stator secur-
ing screws
2 Install the Woodruff key into
the crankshaft and carefully
install the rotor.

3 Using the special holding tool to

prevent the rotor from turning,
tighten the rotor fastener nut to
the specified torque.
4 Install the rotor cover, starter
motor, and starter motor gear-
ing mechanism.

42 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

Bench Testing
After you’ve completed the assembly of the lower end of the
engine, it’s a good idea to verify that all components move
freely and properly. You wouldn’t want to discover that there
is a problem after you’ve completely reassembled the engine
and installed it into the chassis.
As a check to ensure that the lower-end assembly is operat-
ing satisfactorily, turn the crankshaft to make sure it moves
freely. Shift the transmission into every gear to make sure
that there are no apparent problems inside of the engine.
When you’re satisfied that all components have been assem-
bled correctly, you’re ready to reinstall the engine into the
chassis.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 43

 Road Test 4
1. What is a common cause of a shaft not turning freely after the crankcase halves are bolted
together?

__________________________________________________________

2. True or False? The two-stroke engine crankshaft connecting rod is normally a single-piece
design.

3. True or False? Two-stroke vertically split engine crankcases require a gasket or a sealer to
ensure the case halves seal properly.

4. What should be installed before installing the clutch to prevent piston damage?

__________________________________________________________

5. What is the purpose of a bench test following assembly of the lower end of the engine?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

6. True or False? A hammer is used to tap the crankshaft into the crankcase.

7. After the crankcase fasteners have been properly tightened, and there’s abnormal resistance
in any shaft, how should you try to free the shafts before disassembling the crankcase?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

8. True or False? All crankcase fasteners are the same length.

9. Before installing the crankcase halves together, what components should you check to verify
that they move freely?

__________________________________________________________

10. True or False? The crankshafts used on the motorcycle and ATV two-stroke engine are of the
single-piece design.

Check your answers with those on page 52.

44 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

TWO-STROKE ENGINE
INSTALLATION
Now that the engine has been reassembled and bench tested,
it’s ready to be installed into the chassis. As in the previous
procedures that we’ve covered, you’ll find that there’s a pattern
of steps that can be applied to all makes and models of motor-
cycles and ATVs. Use the following procedures to understand
the general steps and their sequence, but always refer to the
service guide when performing actual maintenance.

Installing the Engine into the Chassis

Before you begin to install the engine in the chassis, it’s very
important to clean and organize all of the chassis and engine
parts. Clean the chassis thoroughly and remove all necessary
hardware to make the installation job easier. It’s best to have
a clean and well-prepared “rolling chassis” before you begin.
A rolling chassis is a motorcycle or ATV that’s completely
assembled except for the body work and engine.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example procedure
are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 45

 Note: To install the engine into
the chassis, it’s advisable to get
at least one other person to
help you install the engine and
align the mounting points. After
the engine is positioned in the
chassis, a jacking device may
be useful to hold the engine in
place while the mounting hard-
ware is installed.
1 Position the engine in the chas-
sis and align the mounting
points on the engine and chas-
sis. Install and tighten the
mounting hardware. The service
manual should contain an
exploded view of the mounting
hardware to help you correctly
install all of the parts.
2 Install the gear shift linkage
and footrest brackets that were
removed to take the engine out
of the chassis.
3 Reconnect the electrical
connectors.

4 Install the engine sprocket.

5 Install the drive chain and
secure the master link.

46 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

6 Install the exhaust system and
secure it to the engine and
chassis with the exhaust
mounting hardware.

7 Install the radiator and coolant

lines.
8 Install the carburetor and
secure with mounting hard-
ware. Install the air box and
control cables.
9 Install the spark plug and
spark plug lead.
10 Install the other electrical con-
nections and components not
previously connected or
installed. Refer to the service
manual for the proper order of
assembly.

Installing Chassis and

Body Components
You’re now ready to install the remaining chassis and body
components. This procedure will complete the reassembly
process and you’ll be ready to start the engine and test
your work.
Note: The illustrations used in the following example proce-
dure are courtesy of the American Suzuki Motor Corporation.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 47

1 Install all body parts and hoses
that were removed during dis-
assembly, including the fuel
tank and fuel hose connections.
2 Check all fasteners to verify that
they are properly tightened.
3 Verify that all electrical compo-
nents are properly installed.

4 Remove the filler cap and add

the appropriate amount of
transmission oil to the engine.
Install and tighten the filler cap.
5 If the engine is liquid cooled, fill
the radiator and inspect for
obvious leaks around hoses or
connectors.
6 Check that the engine rotates
properly by engaging the kick
starter.
7 Turn on the fuel petcock and
assure that fuel flows to the
carburetor to fill the float bowl.

Starting the Engine

When you’re certain that all components are in place, all
fasteners have been properly tightened, and the fluids have
been added, it’s time to start the engine. The engine should
start with 5–10 kicks of the kick starter. If the engine
doesn’t start, stop and verify that all connectors are
attached and then try again.
Once started, let the engine idle or keep it running at as
close to idle as you can. As the engine is warming up, check
for any leaking fluids in and around the engine. Shut the
engine off and allow it to cool to room temperature. Top-off
the coolant on a liquid-cooled engine and verify that the oil is
topped-off to its proper level.

48 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

Breaking-in the Engine
Most manufacturers recommend that a new or reconditioned
engine be properly broken-in to make sure that all components
are sealing well and mesh together properly. Even though
you use the best-quality materials and original equipment,
it’s still necessary to break-in the engine before subjecting
the engine to maximum stress. The future reliability, as well
as the performance of the engine, depends on a proper break-
in procedure. This includes extra care and restraint during
the early life of the reconditioned engine.
Some general rules for engine break-in are as follows:
• For two-stroke off-road machines, such as the machines
described in this study unit, keep the engine at less than
one-half throttle for the first two hours of engine operation.

• For two-stroke street bikes, keep the engine operation at

less than one-half throttle for the first 600 miles.

• After the time period or mileage has been reached, replace

the engine oil and filter to remove any contamination from
the break-in procedure.

After the engine has been operated for the suggested time
period, the motorcycle or ATV can be subjected to the normal
riding habits of the rider.

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection 49

 Road Test 5
1. What can be placed under the engine to keep it steady while you install the mounting fasteners?

__________________________________________________________

2. Why are reconditioned engines “broken in”?

__________________________________________________________

3. What should you check for while the engine is warming up after rebuilding it?

__________________________________________________________

4. What should you do just prior to starting the engine for the first time after reassembly?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

5. What should you do before reinstalling the engine in the chassis?

__________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________

6. How long should the engine be run at less than one-half throttle for proper break-in on a
two-stroke, off-road, liquid-cooled motorcycle or ATV?

__________________________________________________________

Check your answers with those on page 52.

50 Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

 Road Test Answers 1
1. Draining the fluids will prevent making a mess after the
engine is removed.
2. True

Answers
3. clean
4. Leaking engine seals, worn crankshaft bearings, worn
connecting-rod bearings, transmission problems
5. The radiator cap

Road Test Answers 2

1. Cylinder head and cylinder
2. The stator
3. False
4. False

Road Test Answers 3

1. hydraulic press
2. Vernier caliper
3. The gears associated with the fork and the shifting drum
4. It’s the center shift fork.
5. An exploded view of the transmission
6. A bearing
7. Interference fit
8. A hot plate

51
 Road Test Answers 4
1. A misplaced spacer or thrust washer
2. True
3. True
4. The cylinder
5. To make sure that the engine is correctly assembled and
there are no problems before installing the engine into
the chassis
6. False
7. Tap on the shafts with a plastic hammer
8. False
9. All shafts
10. False

Road Test Answers 5

1. A jacking device
2. To help seat all of the new components properly
3. Fluid leaks
4. Check to be sure that all components are in place, all
fasteners have been properly tightened, and the fluids
have been added
5. Clean and organize all of the chassis and engine parts
6. Two hours

52 Road Test Answers

Two-Stroke Engine Lower-End Inspection

Examination
EXAMINATION NUMBER

03301000
Whichever method you use in submitting your exam
answers to the school, you must use the number above.

For the quickest test results, go to

http://www.pennfoster.edu

When you feel confident that you have mastered the material in
this study unit, complete the following examination. Then submit
only your answers to the school for grading, using one of the
examination answer options described in your “Test Materials”
envelope. Send your answers for this examination as soon as you
complete it. Do not wait until another examination is ready.

Questions 1–20: Select the one best answer to each question.

1. What component should always be replaced with a new one if

it’s removed?
A. Bearing C. Friction plate
B. Crank pin D. Seal

2. The tool used to remove the magneto rotor on a two-stroke

motorcycle engine is a(n)
A. flywheel puller. C. holder.
B. hammer. D. open-end wrench.

3. The measuring device used to check for clearance between

the shift fork and a sliding gear is a(n)
A. dial bore gauge. C. inside micrometer.
B. feeler gauge. D. Vernier caliper.

4. A common problem found if abnormal resistance is experi-

enced when trying to rotate a transmission shaft after
reassembling the two-stroke engine crankcase is
A. misplaced gears.
B. misplaced spacers or thrust washers.
C. misplaced transmission shafts.
D. improper pre-lube.

53
 5. What component is removed before opening the crankcase?
A. Clutch C. Crankshaft
B. Connecting rod D. Transmission

6. A ____________ is a small component that’s used to align the crankcase halves.

A. crank C. drum
B. dowel pin D. gasket

7. The shifting-fork groove surfaces should be measured by using a(n)

A. dial bore gauge. C. machinist rule.
B. inside micrometer. D. Vernier caliper.

8. Normally, the engine seal manufacturing identification number is positioned

____________ the bearing to be sealed.
A. away from C. either away or towards
B. towards D. on top of

9. The transmission shifting forks

A. are clamped to the counter shaft.
B. are interchangeable.
C. are usually damaged when the transmission fails.
D. must fit snugly in the gear groove.

10. The special tool used to separate the crankshaft flywheels on a multipiece two-stroke
motorcycle or ATV crankshaft is a
A. crankshaft puller. C. hydraulic press.
B. flywheel puller. D. hydraulic puller.

11. On a two-stroke vertical-crankcase engine design, the transmission is placed in

the crankcase
A. one shaft at a time.
B. one gear at a time.
C. main shaft first, countershaft second.
D. as an assembly.

12. Some transmission bearings require the use of ____________ to remove them.
A. an arbor press C. a bearing puller
B. a hydraulic press D. a screwdriver

13. One reason to disassemble the lower end of a two-stroke engine would be due to
A. a clutch problem. C. ignition failure.
B. a transmission problem. D. piston seizure.

54 Examination
14. ___________ is used between the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves.
A. Gasoline C. Moly-lube
B. Kerosene D. Sealant or a gasket

15. Ball bearings are held in the engine cases by

A. an interference fit. C. the shaft.
B. a 6 mm bolt. D. spacers.

16. A shift fork with a marking of “L” on it indicates that it’s a

A. light shift fork. C. lower shift fork.
B. left shift fork. D. long shift fork.

17. The most popular bearing used to support the crankshaft of a two-stroke motorcycle or
ATV engine is a ___________ bearing.
A. ball C. plain
B. needle D. roller

18. What should be installed before installing the clutch to protect the piston from
possible damage?
A. The clutch hub C. The cylinder
B. The cylinder head D. The piston pin

19. Before assembling the transmission, apply ____________ to all sliding surfaces of
each shaft.
A. gasoline C. molylube
B. kerosene D. sealant

20. What should you do before installing the engine back into the chassis?
A. Get some help C. Install the drive sprocket
B. Install the carburetor D. Install the radiator

Examination 55