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Guide To Building
Your First Shed

Learn the best position to build your shed,

how to build your shed base and the types
of foundation to consider
Where do I put my Shed?
It's a question many ask, "Where is the best place to site my shed?" and the
answer is always the same, "it depends on what you're using it for." Here are
some points to remember when making this decision.

Is a building permit required? Check with your local planning office before
you do anything - there's no point going to all this effort and then having to
move the building. Similarly, it's a good idea to check on any restrictions in
your neighbourhood or subdivision.
Please keep in mind the position of the sun. If you're locating a workshop
in a hot climate, some shade might be in order. If you will be using the
structure as a garden/potting shed then you might require some direct
sunlight.
Similarly, if it's a greenhouse or somewhere you'll be working with plants,
you'll probably want there to be a water supply nearby. Running a water
supply to the back of your lot would be uneconomical, so perhaps a location
closer to the house?
Electric and phone lines may be a consideration too. Again, perhaps a
better idea is to locate close to the phone service?
It can get very muddy and wet in the winter, so locating the door of the
building next to a path is a good idea.
To ensure the longevity of your building, keep an eye on trees or shrubs
that might overhang the building.
You should position the building near a fence or wall with enough clearance
to access all sides for the construction process and for maintenance after it
is completed.
What types of foundations should I consider?
As with any structure, it is essential to provide a firm, level and square base;
without which, your building will become unstable and will deteriorate rapidly.
If you plan your project properly and take the time to do it right, it will last for
many years.

Concrete Slab - The best method - provided it's done well. A job for a
competent Do-it-Yourselfer, or a professional builder.
Pier and Beam - Simple, yet effective. A good solution if the building may
need to be moved in future years.
Treated Wood Runners - An easy non-permanent solution. You simply
clear the site, level off the area and begin. Using treated wood is a must for
this option.

Whichever method you use, it is important that the end result is above all,
firm, level and square. If you are constructing the base for a building over 12'
x 8', a garage, a sectional building, a corner unit, a gazebo, or a building with
no floor, then the more permanent poured concrete slab might be best.

It isn't within the scope of this material to try and detail each and every
foundation option. What we have chosen to do is outline the intermediate type
foundation and provide some ideas and information that might be useful no
matter which type of base you choose for your project.

The Pier and Beam Foundation- 8x8 Shed

We will outline the most common type of shed foundation, the pier and beam
type.

We will use 4x4s lumber as skids or beams, with three concrete pads, spaced
along the length of each cross member. This means that the concrete pads
will be four feet apart side to side and front to back. The first procedure
involves laying and levelling nine 1’ x 1’ concrete paving stones as support for
the 4x4 beams. You don't need the most expensive blocks available. What is
important is the compression strength, not beauty as these blocks will be
hidden by the rest of the construction. (see the diagram below for layout
details)

1. Carefully level the ground (keeping a slight grade so any water getting
under the shed will drain away). Remove any grass or groundcover.

2. Next lie down and tamp in a layer of crushed stone or rock to aid in
drainage. This will be a solid base for your project.

3. Lay out your foundation outline by using string and stakes, allowing about
6" excess from each of your measurements for the some overhang of the
foundation blocks. The batter boards, H-shaped stakes
made from scrap lumber, are outside the actual corner
lines and allow for adjustments that define the square corners.

How to square a rectangular foundation.

Remember the Pythagorean Theory from High School? Well, now is the time
to use it. Some building texts call it the 3-4-5 rules. In any case it serves well
here. As applied here, it will help in laying your foundation out squarely.
Begin by using your tape measure to mark some guide points to work with.
Mark the string corner at a 3’ mark on one side, 4' on another side and
"checking" the right angle by adjusting the diagonal distance to the 3' and 4'
marks by adjusting the angle.

The goal is to bring the angle between the two marked

sides to a perfect 90 degrees such that it measures
exactly 5' when measured across the diagonal.

Alternative method for squaring a foundation.

An alternative squaring method when laying out a square foundation is to

simply layout your string lines or blocks and adjust by measuring the diagonal,
corner to corner. When squared the diagonal corner
measurements will be equal.

5. To level the blocks, lay them down inside the string

perimeter. By using either of the methods outlined
above you can square their position properly.

6. Now let's determine that each pad is sitting level.

Place the four-foot level on each block, first east-west,
then north-south and adjusting the fill under each block to ensure it is level.

7. Next, use the level to determine which of the nine pads was the lowest.
Designate this one the "king pad." Now level the two adjacent perimeter pads
in reference to the "king" pad. Remove a little crushed stone or dirt from under
each pad until it is level with the king pad. This can take some time as you
have to lift up the pad, remove some crushed stone, put the pad back and tap
it solid, then re-measure the level and, if necessary, do it all again.
8. From here level each successive pad around the perimeter. Go both
directions around the perimeter until you get to the pad diagonally across from
the king pad. Level this last block from one side and check its level from the
other side.

9. Finally, level the middle pad from one side and, as a final check of the
entire process, checked the level of the middle pad from the other three sides.
This procedure if carefully done should give you a very level base.

10. Here are some tips that will help you with the slab or concrete foundation.
The principals remain the same for layout and squaring the forms that will be
required to pour the concrete into.

Inside the batter board and string outline the soil will have to be removed so
that the concrete can be poured to a prescribed depth for
your local codes and conditions.

Your local building supply store can provide information

concerning materials required for a given slab dimensions.
Many of the larger warehouse operations offer clinics and
free handout materials that can help you get started on pouring your own
concrete foundation.

Now you have a solid foundation on which to lie out your floor joists and
flooring. Let's take a look at the Plans.
 Building A Shed Base
How to build a shed base is a very popular question to diydoctor and in all
honesty there are a number of ways to do it. We have chosen a standard
construction method that allows for a damp proof membrane under the slab to
stop damp rising up through it. The slab is designed to be above ground and
is 6 inches thick. For small sheds this could be dug into the ground removing
the need for brickwork to the edges. Simply dig the hole 300mm wider and
longer than your shed floor, 100mm deep (providing the ground underneath is
solid) and pour the concrete onto a damp proof membrane you have laid
inside. However you build your shed base you need to make sure the ground
is quite level over the area of your base.

For the above ground method you first need to decide if your ground is firm
enough to lay a slab without a hardcore sub-base. To do this get a 50mm x
50mm post and without sharpening the end try and drive it into the ground.
This should be hard to do beyond 150mm deep.

If the ground is firm enough then carry on with the instructions below. If the
peg goes in too easily then remove 4 inches of soil for an area of ground
which is 500mm wider and longer than the floor of your shed and fill this with
scalpings. Scalpings are crushed stone aggregate and available from
aggregate and builders merchants. They are a little more expensive than
broken brick hardcore but much much easier to lay and compact.

If it is necessary to compact scalpings for your base, then a machine called a

"whacker plate" or "vibrating plate" can be hired from you local tool hire shop.

Now we have a base area ready. It should, in all cases, be 300mm longer and wider than
your shed floor and as level as possible. Using the diagram below follow the instructions for
an above ground base.
 In the diagram above the damp proof membrane, which should be at least 1000 gauge
polythene as seen below, is shown going under the formwork (frame) for the base. This is
only done so you can see where it goes in relation to the construction. Its actual position is
inside the frame.

Click on the images to buy the tools.

Polythene membrane Club, or lump hammer Bricklaying

trowel Pointing trowel
 Spirit Level Shovel
Saw Nylon line

Using 150mm x 25mm sawn and treated timber, cut the four sides of the formwork for your
base. This timber should be 300mm longer than your base and 300mm wider. Lay the timber
out where you want the base and using a heavy "lump" hammer bang in some 50mm x 50mm
posts along the line of the timber. These posts will obviously hold the timber on its edge, but
more importantly are for stopping the timber bowing out as you place the concrete. The posts
should be no more than 900mm apart. When the posts are banged in you need to use a spirit
level to make sure the top of the formwork is level. When it is, fix the boards to the posts
using small nails (40mm). There is no need to use large nails or screws, as the concrete will
hold the boards in place. If any of the posts stick up above the boards, cut them off using a
sharp saw. You will realise the benefit of this when you come to level and "tamp" the
concrete.

To make sure the angles of your formwork are at 90 degrees, measure from corner to corner
across both diagonals. The measurements should be identical.

With a level square frame in place you can now lay 25mm of soft building sand in the bottom.
This is to stop the polythene damp proof membrane getting punctured. Next lay the polythene
inside the frame and fold as tightly as possible into the corners.

Mix and place the concrete. Get the help of a friend and with another piece of timber laid
across the top of the frame and concrete, wiggle it about to get the top of the new base level.
Stand the timber on its edge and push and pull it across the frame while dragging it from one
end to the other will level it roughly. Then lift the board at both ends, about 4 inches above the
frame and tap it back down on the frame moving up and down the frame as you do so. Try
and tap together so both ends of the board hit the frame at the same time. This vibrates the
concrete into place and it will find its own level. This is called tamping. See image below right.
Lastly have a wander around the frame tapping gently on the outside, all the way round, with
a claw hammer. This will vibrate out any air bubbles trapped between the frame and the
concrete.
 While the concrete is going hard, without disturbing the posts (of which there should be at
least 300mm in the ground) dig a small trench all the way around the base, right next to the
frame, about 5 inches wide and 2 inches deep. Fill this with concrete also. It is the
foundations for the brick wall that surrounds the base.

This brick wall serves two purposes. It holds the damp proof membrane up so no ground
water can seep between the underside of the slab and the membrane and it also gives a
much better looking side to the slab. We are assuming this base is for keeps so you want it to
look good as well as being completely functional!

When the concrete is hard after a day or so, pull the timber up and away from the base.

Keeping the polythene held up, lay two courses of bricks around the base. Lay the top course
of bricks with any frog (brick indent) facing down so that you have a nice flat top. When these
are laid, cut off any surplus polythene just below the top of slab/bricks. Then push plenty of
mortar (soft sand and cement mixed at 4 to 1) into the joint between bricks and slab.

Point up the brickwork and you have a good-looking base for your shed.
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