INTERNHIP REPORT ON GARMENT ENGINERING

AT CENTURY GARMENTS PLC

PREPARED BY YEABSIRA MATHEWOS

HAWASSA UNIVERSITY INISTITUTE OF TECHNOLOY

SUBMITTED TO CENTURY GARMENTS PLC

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ACKNOWLEDGMENT
The credit for the completion of this report goes to numbers of people. First and foremost I want
to praise GOD for helping me in this report and in general for the knowledge and strength he
offered me in my life time. I can truly say God has blessed me in my life by supporting in terms
of family, friends, patience, faith, positive attitude and all required ingredients for success.
Second I would like to offer my gratitude to Hawassa University, Industry Linkage office for
giving me the chance to have an experience on the practical work and getting better skills with
theoretical knowledge. I also would like to show my appreciation to CGPL for giving me the
experience on the real world of garment industry. More over my thanks goes to my advisors Mr.
Kenan and Ms. Venus for their supervision, sharing their experience, advice in my present effort
and on my stay in the company to become fruitful. And also they gave me all information that I
could use and all the necessary data for this project, advised, supported encouraged and shared
material that guides me in the activity of the company. Aside from them I would like to show my
thankfulness for Ms. Ade the HR manager of the company for accepting us and being patient and
understanding in most difficult situations. Finally I would like to thank Mr. Sugmar for giving us
his precious time and for sharing his knowledge. And I would like to thank all the staff members
and employee of the company.

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Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION OF THE COMPANY ...................................................................................... 5

Background of the company ....................................................................................................... 5

Vision .......................................................................................................................................... 5

Mission........................................................................................................................................ 5

Over all organizational structure ................................................................................................. 6

Main raw material supplier, customers and products of the company ....................................... 6

Company’s department details........................................................................................................ 7

Warehouse department................................................................................................................ 7

GGT Department ........................................................................................................................ 7

Cutting room ............................................................................................................................... 8

SPREADING .......................................................................................................................... 9

CUTTING ............................................................................................................................... 9

Numbering process ................................................................................................................. 9

Bundling.................................................................................................................................. 9

OGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE OF CUTTING ............................................................ 10

Quality department.................................................................................................................... 10

IE department ............................................................................................................................ 12

Maintenance department ........................................................................................................... 12

Sewing Department ................................................................................................................... 12

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 FINISHING DEPARTMENT................................................................................................... 13

Final quality inspection and dispatching............................................................................... 13

Major responsibilities as an intern ................................................................................................ 14

OVERALL BENEFITS FROM THE INTERNSHIP ................................................................... 14

Improving practical skill ........................................................................................................... 14

Upgrading theoretical knowledge ............................................................................................. 15

Improving interpersonal communication skill .......................................................................... 15

Improving team playing skill .................................................................................................... 15

Work ethics ............................................................................................................................... 15

Summery ....................................................................................................................................... 16

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 INTRODUCTION OF THE COMPANY

Background of the company

Busana Apparel Group is the largest woven apparel exporter in Indonesia. They own and operate
world-class factories in various locations across Indonesia and Ethiopia powered by 26,165
skilled workers in 23 factories. Their production capacity can handle 47.4 million pieces per
year.

Starting with a small factory at Central Java, Indonesia, in 1975, PT Ungaran Sari Garments has
developed to become one of the largest apparel manufacturers in Indonesia. PT Ungaran Sari
Garments has 3 locations in Centeral Java, Indonesia. As of 2016, a new location has been
established in Hawassa, Ethiopia under the name of Century Garments PLC.

Century Garments PLC was established in 2016 with the production of men’s shirts commencing
in 2017. The plant consists of four factory buildings with total area of 22,000 squares meters.
Century Garments PLC is amongst the first group of 14 investors who have decided to invest in
Hawassa Industrial Park, Ethiopia.

The government of Ethiopia and investors aspire to make the Hawassa Industrial Park one of the
best industrial parks in Africa and in the world.

The ultimate aim is to deliver quality products and gain customer satisfaction.

Vision
To be leading integrated solutions provider in the world of lifestyle and fashion.

Mission
They will excel in design, development and sourcing to deliver the right products and services
competitively with a focus on quick response.

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Over all organizational structure

Main raw material supplier, customers and products of the company

Main raw material supplier Brands Main products

Fabric Accessory Calvin Klein Men’s shirt

CHAPS
suppliers suppliers

Jiangsu Wan Sing Kenneth Cole PPE Masks

Coverall

Nantong NEXGEN Van Hussien

PEN FABRIC Coats itk Tommy Hilfiger

JP textiles Winner bags Arrow

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 Company’s department details

Warehouse department

There are different warehouses in Century garment. Store fabric warehouse, store accessories
warehouse and finished garment warehouse. Store fabric warehouse is a place where fabric is
stocked. In this warehouse not only bulk fabric is stored but also interlinings, sample fabrics and
other rolled papers ( i.e brown paper, marker paper…etc).

In store accessories there are various accessories and materials found; such as sewing
accessories, finishing accessories, general spare materials and other stationery materials. Sewing
accessories are:-

♦ Labels – main label, sub label, combo label

♦ PCVAR, OKEO TEX, UPC
♦ Buttons and threads… etc

GGT Department

In CGPL Computer aided design department and sampling department are combined into one
department which is GGT department. In this department there are so many jobs done; such as
finish pattern, pattern, marker, cutter pattern and grading.

For the CAD, the company uses OPTITEX software. And as for the marker and cutter pattern
they use Marker15 software. Furthermore, for transferring the marker information to the Auto
Cutter machine the department uses Marker12 software.

There are two types of machines in the GGT ROOM, ALGOTEX and CARD BOARD CUTTER
machine. While the ALGOTEX machine plots the pattern on the marker paper the CARD
BOARD CUTTER machine plots and cuts the cutter pattern. The marker is sent to the Cutting
department both in softcopy (via Marker12) to the AUTO CUTTER machine and the plotted
marker paper. The marker includes PO, style number, model, color, size and other necessary
information. The cutter pattern also has that information. This pattern is used to check the
accuracy of the marker and the cut pieces of fabric.

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Shrinkage test is done before making the pilot garment to know if the fabric will have size
variation after ironing. To do the shrinkage test we use 35cm X 35cm template to mark on both
right and wrong side of the sample fabric. Then the marks are measured to make sure they are
35cm X 35 cm indeed. Then the sample is sent to finishing department to iron those marked
parts. Next the fabric is relaxed for 4 hours. After that the marked parts are measured again to see
if there is variation on the size of the length and width.

Calibration test is done every morning before starting the daily work of the GGT department
and if the paper of the machine ends to check the workability of machines. The first test done is
called test square. And the next is known as test lining.

Cutting room

In the cutting room four different processes take place. Those are:-

 Spreading
 Cutting
 Numbering and ticketing
 Fusing

Generally in this department there are different machineries used for different puroses

Machine type Model Quantity

End cutter SU LEE(360) 4
Straight knife KS-AU-V 4
Auto cutter BULMER 1
Auto spreader OSHIMA 2
Band knife BK900AR 4
Die cutter SE25-EX-T25 2
Spare computer machine ADT 320 2
Cut interlining machine NS 11305 2
Fusing machine RELICNT TM 1
Bx 100cu VEIT 2
Martin group X600KEL-PLFC 3

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SPREADING

In this stage fabric sheet is layered one above another maintaining pre-defined marker length and
correct ply tension. Fabric is layered up to a certain height to avoid cutting quality problem.
Before the spreading takes place the sample comes first to make the highlight. Once the sample
highlight is done it is checked. After that fabric is inspected. Then FAR and FIR are issued from
store and QC respectively. FAR and FIR are sent to GGT in Indonesia for approval. After
approving the fabric the GGT department sends the marker calculator and the material allocation
from the PPMC department via email from Indonesia. Then the cutting department requests
marker from GGT department and fabric to be cut from the store. Next once the marker and
fabric is on hand the spreading form is given to the spreading orator and spreading takes place
according to its flow procedure.

CUTTING

Lay is cut following the marked lines on the top of the lay. Cutting is done using straight knife or
other cutting means. In cutting process garment component are separated. On basis of pattern
shape different cutting method/ machine are selected. The decision is made by the GGT
department on which machine the fabric should be cut; whether it is on straight knife or auto
cutter.

Numbering process

Separated garment components are numbered to ensure that in stitching all components from
same layer are stitched together. It is important to avoid shade variation in a garment.

Bundling

As per the production line requirement a certain number of pieces with all components are tied
together. This process is called bundling. Each bundle is marked with bundle number, style
name, model, size number, and quantity of pieces in that bundle. At this stage cutting are ready
to send to production line for stitching.

Inspection of cut components: - this section is a basic section before assembling

operation takes place. In this section each cut component checked by untying the bundle and if
the defects exist on the one component of the garment, by finding its other match components

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and eliminate from the bundle and record on cutting delivery receipt form. The delivery receipt
form has the information that explains total cut quantity, rejection and ok piece. Total cut
quantity is components that received from cutting and rejection is a number of pieces that reject
from total cut quantity. These data have an important to cut a new piece into the replacement of
the rejected one.

OGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE OF CUTTING

Quality department

The quality department of CGPL works as catalyst in each section to ensure that quality is built
within the process. Therefore the standard operating procedure in each department is different.
The main responsibilities of this department are:-

• Quality control and assurance

• Meeting delivery date
• Satisfying customers

When an order comes PPMC receives the order and the QC department receives QA file from
the buyer. This file includes PO, comment PPS, garment test report, fabric test report, PDM,
directive, trim chart fabric and accessories. Once order is received by PPMC, they contact the
supplier and get the raw materials needed. Next after the raw materials arrive at CGPL inspection
is done within 24 hrs of materials arrival. If there is no rejection then the route is carried on and
the GGT prepares the pattern sample to get approval from QC. Then the spreading and cutting
processes are also checked by the QC. After that when the production of new style begins in a

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line the inline checker approves by checking by means of all perspectives. Then the end line
checker inspects each garment and either passes or rejects if there is any defect. The passed
garments are transferred to the finishing and ironed and folded there too the ironing and folding
is checked by QC. Then after cartooning the garment the QC checks them.

There are three types of inspection in this department. Those are:-

• Inline inspection: This is done by the QC of the company. In here there is 10% is
inspection in cutting and sewing.
• Pre final inspection: done by the buyer. When there is 50% of the ordered is produced.
Here accuracy and sewing construction, workmanship, and measurements are checked.
• Final inspection: also done by the buyer. 100% of cutting and sewing are checked. 97%
of finishing and packing are also checked. This is done a week or 10 days before
shipment. So if there are defects the can be fixed without being late for shipment.

In Line Quality Controller’s Activities: they need to have technical files which support them to
control every parameter like stitch type, seam type, SPI, sewing thread type etc. according to the
customer requirement. Inline quality controller control things like stitch defect, seam defect,
accessory defect, sewing thread defect, cleanness of the machine to protect stains, dusts
templates etc.

End Line Quality Controller: They have to have sample garment, technical files and trim card
if they don’t read. The Main function of end line inspector to classify the garment in to four
categories: they are A-grade, B grade, re-work and wash.

Finishing Quality Controller Checks for pressing defects Maintain the original texture of the
fabric, show no shine or press marks on the right side of the fabric, have no wrinkles or crinkled
areas, have seams and darts pressed smoothly on the stitching line, so that the fabric does not
fold over the stitching line or look bubbled, Edges of seam allowances and fold edges of darts do
not form ridges on the right side of the garment, Have no water-spot or steam marks, scotches,
stains and other finishing defects. Help create and maintain the proper shape and curve to the
garment.

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IE department

Responsibilities of the IE department

• Review styling: makes sure the comments that are given on the PP meeting are avoided
in the bulk production.
• Start up line meeting: meeting with the line operators and supervisors about the style
changes on the process, comments on the PP meeting etc. Briefing to the production
about the general construction style that will run.
• Machine preparation: controlling and preparing the machines in the layout such as
changing folders, changing sizes, changing tapes etc.
• Layout preparation: changing the layout of the line if there is any change in the operating
procedure of the garment.
• Man power preparation: allocating the necessary man power with sufficient skill in
prepared layout. And balancing lines.
• Control the daily production: checking the production and productivity of each lines,
analyzing today’s problem if there is bottleneck, monitoring specific processes, checking
absenteeism, studying and motivating the workers, review the final production, prepare
plan and strategy for tomorrow production.

Maintenance department
Maintenance department are responsible for any mechanical and electrical maintenance that has to be
done in the plant.

Responsibilities of mechanic: -

 Maintained machine
 Repair machine
 Maintenance of Existing Plan equipment
 Prepared layout of machine
 Equipment Inspection and lubrication
 Fix maintenance schedule

Sewing Department

Sewing is the process of fastening or attaching two or more parts of fabric using stitches made
with a needle and thread. It is one of the basic steps of apparel manufacturing process. Sewing
section is the most important department of a garment manufacturing industry. In line and final

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garment checking is done on this department to achieve a good quality garment at end of the
working industry. In line and final garment checking is done on this department to achieve a
good quality garment at end of the working.

There are some garment manufacturing systems in garment industries among those systems
CGPL uses progressive bundle system.

FINISHING DEPARTMENT

Finishing Generally, this process includes checking of garment, measurement checking (final
inspection) thread sucking , ironing, folding, packaging, and packing. After inspection all
garments are ironed to remove creases by means of press.

Packaging
Packaging should be designed to protect the garment and to ensure that the garment
reaches the purchaser in satisfactory condition. It should also allow labelling in
accordance with the buyer’s requirements. Details that are likely to be specified by the
buyer include the following
 Method of cleaning
 Method of folding or hanging
 Number of garment in each package or set.
 Visibility of label
 Type of outer packaging

Final quality inspection and dispatching

Once garments are packed (also known as shipment), before dispatching quality inspection of
the garments is carried by buyer Quality Assurance (QA) department. Many times a third party
quality auditor is hired for this final inspection job. If the packed goods meet the buyer’s quality
standards, shipment is accepted by buyer. Factory then dispatches goods to the buyer. As the
delivery date reaches, the goods are shipped to the customer. Before this, a final sample is taken
out of the order size to be shipped and final checking is done. Then the shipping activity process
is approved after Final quality Measurement checking.

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Packing and finished products store

Packing is the process of assorting or solid packing of the garment in a carton for the purpose of
easy handling transportation and also to prevent the garment from damage during storage and
transportation. It is the stuffing of the folded/poly bagged garment in a carton. Finished products
stored in two places the first one is in its store and the second one is in open space.

Major responsibilities as an intern

The main aim of this internship was to have practical knowledge in garment production.
Therefore, the main responsibility of an intern is to have the sufficient training given by the
trainers, follow the prearranged training schedule which would help the trainees to understand
about the tasks that are done in each department of the company. After training according to the
schedule the next responsibility was practicing what I was trained on the assigned specific
section; which was improving the quality of the products by minimizing defects in sewing line 8.

OVERALL BENEFITS FROM THE INTERNSHIP

During my internship period in CGPL for about three months, I have observed the overall
production processes of garment thoroughly and value added products. And also I studied the
working procedures, product varieties and the available technological infrastructures utilized
during actual manufacturing in detail for the rest of my time.
Generally the Overall benefits I gained from the Internship duration in CGPL is summarized
below.

Improving practical skill

During my internship program I gained practical skill like: \

• Fabric cutting skills.
• Garment measuring skills.
• Finish Pattern making skill

• Sewing skill

• Finishing (ironing, folding, packing)

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 • Operating different machines like pressing machine, fusing machine and etc

Upgrading theoretical knowledge

As we know practical skills difficult to attain without having theoretical knowledge, Practical aspects
are done as a reflection of theoretical understanding knowing this I have tried to relate each and
every practical skill with the theoretical knowledge that we have already acquired. When I was
learning in the class there was many theories which seems me ideal and not true. But, after I had
completed this internship program I have checked that those I have learned in theory are real and are
found in the practical world.

Improving interpersonal communication skill

Interpersonal communication skill includes message sending and receiving between two or more
individuals. This can include all aspect of communication like listening, persuading, asserting
nonverbal communication and more. The communication skill that I developed during my internship
helped me to approach sort of people who are from different aspects disciplines and regions and it
show me the way how to approach professionals who are on the field. The internship helps me to
develop independency, confidence, hardworking, responsibility, and transparency, truthfully and
multi dimensionality in any department.

Improving team playing skill

The team playing is the basic necessary to identity people’s behavior, understanding, strengths and
weaknesses in work place. In group work many ideas, question, are will be raised and then sharing
and discussion will be done. Finally, ideas come together through discussion and it will come to one
conventional idea. And also internship help me to develop some incredible characters like:-
 Show respect

 Open mindedness

 Trust

 Helping each other.

Work ethics

Understanding about work ethics:-

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 Economical utilization of materials

 Use safety guard at dangers area like cutting with straight or band knifes.

 Have good relationship with co workers

 Accepting fault

 Be co operative

 Being effective in performance

 Share knowledge

 Solve problems by discussion

 Be fast to understand changes

 Don’t do things by guess in order to avoid damages and wastage

Summery

I have spent around three months in Century Garments PLC as an internship trainee and

increased my knowledge in garment industry. I trained in various departments of the company, I

learnt so many things, and I have practiced and worked in the quality control of a sewing line.

My experience in this company is tremendously helped me develop different skills for my own

good. Though I was not present for very few days, my fellow interns and trainers have filled me

in what I have missed. Hence, I can proudly state that I will use all the experiences I gained from

this company to develop career.

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