MILADY’S PROFESSIONAL BARBERING COURSE MANAGEMENT GUIDE LESSON PLAN

8.0
Chapter 8: Chemistry
TOPICS

1. Introduction
2. Chemistry
A. Definition
B. Divisions
C. Matter
3. Chemistry of Water
A. Introduction
B. Water and pH
4. The pH Scale
A. Introduction
B. Acids and Alkalis
C. Oxidation-Reduction Reactions
5. Cosmetic Chemistry
A. Powders
B. Solutions
C. Suspensions
D. Emulsions
6. Cosmetic Preparations
A. Shampoos
B. Conditioners
C. Rinses
D. Tonics
E. Other Cosmetic Preparations
7. United States Pharmacopeia (USP)

NOTES TO THE INSTRUCTOR

A basic study of chemistry should provide students with the foundation to understand important
principles such as physical and chemical changes in matter, the chemistry of water, the pH scale, and
the chemistry of cosmetic preparations such as shampoos, conditioners, and so forth. Such a founda-
tion of understanding will help students to better comprehend the changes that take place in the hair
during chemical services, how to mix solutions, or which hair product to select based on its composition
and the desired outcome. Throughout this topic of study, it is recommended that instructors take every
opportunity to link the chapter content with examples or situations that student barbers may encoun-
ter on the clinic floor or in the barbershop.

STUDENT PREPARATION: Read Chapter 8: Chemistry

STUDENT MATERIALS

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook

• Milady’s Professional Barbering Student Workbook
• Milady’s Professional Barbering Student CD-ROM
• Writing materials

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 LEARNING OBJECTIVES
Upon completion of this lesson, students should be able to:
1. Define organic and inorganic chemistry.
2. Define matter and its states.
3. Define pH and understand the pH scale.
4. Explain the characteristics of emulsions, suspensions, and solutions.
5. Understand how the pH levels of hair products affect the hair and scalp.
6. Discuss cosmetic preparations used in barbering including shampoos, conditioners, rinses, and tonics.

ALLOTTED TIME: Two to four hours, depending on depth of study and range of activities.
TEACHING AIDS

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering Instructor Slides
• Whiteboard or chalkboard; dry-erase markers or chalk
• CD/DVD player or overhead projector
• Poster board (two to four pieces)
• Litmus paper
• Hard-water test activity materials
• One pint of distilled water
• One empty plastic pint bottle
• Powdered castile soap
• Measuring cup
• Small, sealable plastic bags

EDUCATOR REFERENCES

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering textbook

• Milady’s Standard Professional Barbering Course Management Guide

LESSON OUTLINE
1. Introduction

A. Barbers use chemical products on a daily basis.

1. Application of disinfectant and cleaning solutions
2. To produce chemical changes in hair
B. Importance of using chemicals safely and effectively in the performance of barbering

2. Chemistry

A. Definition: The science of the composition, structure, and properties of matter and how matter
changes under different chemical conditions
B. Divisions: Chemistry is divided into two areas: organic and inorganic chemistry.
1. Organic: study of substances containing carbon
a. All living things made of carbon compounds
b. Most organic substances will burn
c. Examples: gasoline, synthetic fabrics, plastics, and pesticides, all manufactured from natural
gas and oils (the remains of plants and animals that died millions of years ago)

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 2. Inorganic: study of substances that do not contain carbon but may contain hydrogen
a. Refers to substances that are not and never were alive
b. Most inorganic substances will not burn
c. Examples: metals, minerals, water, air, and ammonia
C. Matter
1. Definition: Anything that occupies space and has physical and chemical properties
2. States: exists as solids, liquids, and gases
3. Elements, atoms, and molecules
a. Elements: basic materials of all matter
1. Cannot be separated into simpler substances by chemical means
2. 94 of the 117 known elements occur naturally on earth.
3. Each element is given a letter symbol, such as O for oxygen, S for sulfur, and H for
hydrogen.
b. Atoms: the basic building blocks of all matter
1. The smallest part of an element that retains the characteristics of that element
2. Consist of protons, neutrons, and electrons
c. Molecules: formed by chemically joining two or more atoms; types: elemental and
compound
1. Elemental: chemical combinations of two or more atoms of the same element; example:
oxygen (O)
2. Compound: chemical combinations of two or more atoms of different elements; example:
sodium chloride (table salt) is a compound molecule that is a chemical combination of one
atom of sodium (Na) and one atom of chlorine (CI).
4. States of Matter
a. All matter exists in one of three different physical forms: solid, liquid, or gas refer to textbook
Figure 8-3 or Supplement 8.0.
b. Energy added or taken away through temperature or pressure change creates changes in the
states of matter; example: Water changes according to changes in the temperature, but it is
still water.
1. Ice: water in a solid state, with definite shape and volume
2. Liquid: has volume but no definite shape
3. Steam: example of a gas, with no volume or shape
c. Physical properties: characteristics that can be determined without chemical reaction and
change in the identity of a substance; examples: color, odor, weight, density, melting point,
boiling point, and hardness.
d. Chemical properties: characteristics that can only be determined with a chemical reaction and
change in the identity of a substance; examples: rusting iron and burning wood; oxidation
creates a chemical change in both.
e. Physical change of matter: Does not form a new substance; no chemical reactions or new
chemicals formed in the process.
1. Example 1: ice melting to water
2. Example 2: temporary haircolor physically adds color to the hair surface, but does not
create a chemical change in the hair’s structure or color. Refer to textbook Figure 8-4.
f. Chemical change of matter: occurs with change in the chemical composition of a substance
1. Example 1: rusting iron
2. Example 2: permanent haircolor creates chemical change through oxidation. Oxidation
creates chemical changes in the product, hair structure, and hair color, forming new
chemicals in the process. Refer to textbook Figure 8-5.

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 5. Pure substances and physical mixtures: all matter is classified as a pure substance or physical
mixture; refer to textbook Figure 8-6.
a. Pure substance: matter that has a fixed chemical composition, definite proportions, and
distinct properties. Elements and compounds are pure substances.
1. Elemental molecules: contain two or more atoms of the same element that unite
chemically; example: aluminum foil, composed only of atoms of the element aluminum
2. Chemical compounds: result of a chemical reaction; combinations of two or more atoms
of different elements united chemically with fixed chemical composition, definite
proportions, and distinct properties; example: water, a chemical compound of two
hydrogen atoms and one oxygen atom
b. Four classifications of compounds
1. Oxides: compounds of any element combined with oxygen; examples: One part carbon
and two parts oxygen equal carbon dioxide; one part carbon and one part oxygen equal
carbon monoxide.
2. Acids: compounds of hydrogen, a non-metal such as nitrogen, and sometimes oxygen;
example: hydrogen, sulphur, and oxygen equal sulphuric acid.
3. Bases: also known as alkalis: compounds of hydrogen, a metal, and oxygen; example:
sodium, oxygen, and hydrogen equal sodium hydroxide.
4. Salts: compounds formed by the reaction of acids and bases; water also produced by the
reaction; examples: sodium chloride (table salt) and magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts)
c. Physical mixture: Combination of two or more substances united physically in any proportion
without a fixed composition; a mixture with its own functions that does not lose the
characteristics of the individual ingredients
1. Example: Pure air is a physical mixture of mostly nitrogen and oxygen gases.
2. Example: Concrete is composed of water, sand, gravel, and cement.

3. Chemistry of Water

A. Introduction: Water (H2O) is the most abundant and important of all chemicals; universal solvent
1. Distilled or de-mineralized water: used as a nonconductor of electricity
2. Water with certain mineral substances is a conductor of electricity.
3. Purification of water: boiling, filtration, or distillation
a. Soft water: rainwater or chemically softened water; allows for better lathering; best choice
for use in the barbershop
b. Hard water: contains mineral substances such as calcium and magnesium salts that hinder
lathering; may be softened by distillation or use of sodium carbonate or sodium phosphate
Activity 1: Use the following steps to have students perform the hard-water test using the
school’s water supply.

a. Dissolve ¾ of an ounce of pure, powdered castile soap in a pint of distilled water.

b. Use a second pint bottle and fill it halfway with tap water.
c. Add about seven drops (0.5 milliliters) of the soap solution.
d. Shake the bottle vigorously; if lather forms at once and persists, the water is very soft.
e. If lather does not appear at once, add another 0.5 milliliters of soap solution; shake again;
if an additional 0.5 milliliters of the soap solution is needed to produce a good lather, the
water is hard and should be softened for hair services in the school.
f. Prepare a small sealable bag with the required amount of powdered castile soap for each
student; have students test their water at home and discuss the results during the next class
session.

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 B. Water and pH
1. Letters pH: potential hydrogen
2. Term pH: relative degree of acidity or alkalinity of a substance
3. The pH scale measures the concentration of hydrogen ions in acidic and alkaline solutions.
4. Potential hydrogen and ions: ions are atoms or molecules that carry an electrical charge.
a. Ionization: the separation of a substance into ions that have opposite electrical charges
1. Anion: negatively charged ion
2. Cation: positively charged ion
3. Makes pH possible; only aqueous (water) solutions have pH.
4. Non-aqueous solutions (alcohol or oil) do not have pH.
5. Pure water: Water molecules ionize naturally into hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions.
a. The pH scale measures the ions.
b. Hydrogen ion is acidic; hydroxide ion is alkaline.
c. Pure water contains equal hydrogen and hydroxide ions, making it neutral.
d. Pure water is a number 7 on the pH scale; refer to textbook Figure 8-8.

4. The pH Scale
A. Introduction
1. Symbol pH represents the quantity or concentration of hydrogen ions in a solution.
2. pH values are arranged on a scale ranging from 0 to 14.
a. pH of 7: neutral solution.
b. pH below 7: acidic solution.
c. pH above 7: alkaline solution. Refer to textbook Figure 8-9.
3. pH scale is a logarithmic scale.
a. A change of one whole number represents a tenfold change in pH.
b. Example: A pH of 8 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7. A change of two whole numbers
indicates a change of 10 times 10, or a hundredfold change. A pH of 9 is 100 times more
alkaline than a pH of 7.
c. Example: pH range of hair and skin is 4.5 to 5.5. Pure water is 100 times more alkaline than
hair and skin, although neutral on the pH scale. Pure water can cause the hair to swell up to
20 percent.
B. Acids and Alkalis
1. Acids
a. Owe chemical reactivity to the hydrogen ion (H+)
b. pH below 7
c. Taste sour
d. Turn litmus paper from blue to red
e. Contract and harden the hair; tighten the skin; see textbook Figure 8-10.
f. Example: H2O2 neutralizer used in permanent waving
2. Alkalis
a. Owe chemical reactivity to the hydroxide (OH–) ion
b. Also known as bases
c. pH above 7
d. Taste bitter
e. Feel slippery on the skin
f. Turn litmus paper from red to blue
g. Soften and swell the hair; see textbook Figure 8-10.
h. Example: sodium hydroxide (lye); very strong alkali used in drain cleaners and chemical hair
relaxers

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 3. Acid-alkali neutralization reactions
a. Equal proportions of acids and alkalis mixed together neutralize each other to form water
and salt.
b. Example: Equal amounts of hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide neutralize each other to
form a solution of pure water and table salt.
c. Permanent waving neutralizing lotions and hydroxide hair relaxer neutralizing shampoos
create same type of acid-alkali neutralization reaction.
C. Oxidation-Reduction (Redox) Reactions
1. Oxidation: chemical reaction that combines an element or compound with oxygen to produce
an oxide; some heat is usually produced.
a. Chemical reactions characterized by the giving off of heat are called exothermic.
b. Examples: exothermic permanent-waving lotions produce heat due to oxidation reaction;
slow oxidation occurs in oxidation haircolors and permanent-wave neutralizers.
c. When oxygen is combined with a substance, the substance is oxidized.
2. Reduction reactions
a. Reduction: when oxygen is removed from a substance, the substance is reduced.
b. Oxidizing agent: the substance that releases oxygen
c. Example: hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizing agent; when mixed with an oxidation haircolor,
the haircolor gains oxygen and the hydrogen peroxide loses oxygen and is reduced.
3. Redox
a. A contraction for reduction-oxidation
b. Oxidation and reduction always occur simultaneously.
c. In redox reactions, the oxidizer is reduced and the reducing agent is oxidized.
4. Other redox reactions
a. Oxidation may result from loss of hydrogen; reduction the result of added hydrogen.
b. Example: permanent waving solution contains thioglycolate acid. Waving solution breaks
disulfide bonds in hair through a reduction reaction that adds hydrogen ions to the hair.
Hair is reduced and perm solution is oxidized. After processing and rinsing, the neutralizer
oxidizes the hair by removing hydrogen added with the waving solution. When the hair has
oxidized, the neutralizer will be reduced in the process.

5. Cosmetic Chemistry

A. Introduction: The scientific study of the cosmetic products used in the barbering and cosmetology
industries
1. Knowledge of products helps barbers to service clientele.
2. Physical and chemical classifications: powders, solutions, suspensions, emulsions, soaps, and
ointments
B. Powders: uniform mixtures of insoluble substances (inorganic, organic, and colloidal) that are
properly blended, perfumed, and/or tinted
C. Solutions: clear or transparent permanent mixtures of a solute and solvent that do not separate
upon standing; classified as dilute, concentrated, or saturated solutions
1. Dilute: contains a small quantity of the solute in proportion to the quantity of solvent
2. Concentrated: contains a large quantity of the solute in proportion to the quantity of solvent
3. Saturated: will not dissolve or take up more solute than it already holds at a given temperature
D. Suspensions: uniform mixtures of two or more substances
1. Particles can be seen with the naked eye.
2. Not usually transparent; may be colored
3. Tend to separate over time; need to be shaken before use
4. Examples: hair tonics, salad dressing, calamine lotion, paint, and aerosol hair spray

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 E. Emulsions: suspensions of one liquid dispersed in another
1. Mixture of two immiscible liquids held together by an emulsifying agent
a. Tend to separate over time; may remain stable for at least three years
b. Example: mayonnaise is an oil-in-water emulsion of two immiscible liquids. The egg yolk in
mayonnaise emulsifies the oil droplets and disperses them uniformly in the water.
2. Surfactants: substances that act as a bridge to allow oil and water to mix or emulsify
F. Soaps: compounds made by mixing plant oils or animal fats with strong alkaline substances
G. Ointments: semi-solid mixtures of organic substances; examples: lard, petrolatum, or wax and a
medicinal agent

6. Cosmetic Preparations

A. Shampoos
1. Purpose of shampoo product and service is to cleanse the scalp and hair.
2. Should not contain harsh alkalis
3. Usually leave the hair in a more manageable condition
4. A good shampoo product should:
a. Cleanse the hair of oils, debris, and dirt
b. Work efficiently in hard, as well as soft, water
c. Not irritate the eyes or skin
d. Leave the hair and scalp in their natural conditions
5. Shampoo products should be selected according to the condition of the client’s hair and scalp.
6. Shampoo chemistry
a. pH level: influences how the shampoo product will affect layers of the hair and skin;
b. Shampoo emulsions; main ingredients: water and surfactants; usually range between 4.5
and 7.5 on the pH scale
c. Shampoo molecules: composed of a head and tail, each with its own special function
1. Head: attracts water and repels dirt
2. Tail: attracts dirt and repels water
d. Additional ingredients: moisturizers, preservatives, foam enhancers, perfumes, etc.; listed on
product label in descending order, based on percentages in shampoo
7. Surfactant (detergent) determines shampoo classification.
a. Classifications: anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric; more than one may be used in a
formulation to complement or offset unwanted properties.
b. Anionics: most commonly used surfactants; examples: sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium
laureth sulfate
1. Produce rich foam
2. Suitable for use in hard or soft water
c. Cationics: made up of quaternary ammonium compounds
1. Most have some antibacterial action
2. Sometimes included in dandruff shampoos
d. Nonionics: versatile, stable, and have the ability to resist shrinkage
1. Mild cleansing action; low incidence of irritation to human tissues
2. Examples: cocamide (DEA, MEA) used in shampoo, lipstick, and permanent-waving lotions
e. Amphoterics: act as an anionic or cationic substance, depending on solution’s pH
1. Tend to cling to hair and skin; aid in hair manageability
2. Possess germicidal properties
3. Used in several baby shampoos; do not sting the eyes
4. Identified in ingredients list as Amphoteric I-20.

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 8. Water and shampoo products
a. Soft water: shampoo lathers easily
b. Hard water: shampoo does not lather easily
9. Shampoo products
a. Require skillful selection of products appropriate for client’s hair
1. Read manufacturer’s label directions
2. Use retail products on the back bar
10. Categories of shampoos
a. Liquid: cream or clear formulations
1. Liquid cream: thick liquids; contain soap or soap jelly, whitening agents, and oily
compounds
2. Plain: usually clear, amber, or greenish yellow; seldom have lanolin or special agents; use
on hair in good condition; may fade color
b. Liquid dry: used for cleansing scalp and hair when regular shampoo services are not an
option
c. Powder or dry: used when wet shampoo is not an option; sprinkled into hair and brushed
out
11. Types of shampoos
a. Acid-balanced: pH level of hair and skin; mild, does not strip color; most can be used daily
b. Moisturizing or conditioning: mild cream shampoos; contain moisturizing agents
(humectants)
c. Clarifying: contain acidic ingredients to cut through product buildup; provide thorough
cleansing; may prepare hair for chemical services and remove medication or mineral
buildup
d. Balancing: designed for oily hair and scalp; wash away excess oiliness; do not dry out hair
e. Medicated: contain medicinal agents; reduce dandruff and relieve scalp conditions; may
affect color of tinted or lightened hair
f. Therapeutic medicated: contain chemicals or drugs effective for excessive dandruff;
prescribed
g. Organic: contain natural, organic substances (herbs, plants, minerals); usually pH-balanced
h. Color-enhancing: contain surfactants and basic colors; used to brighten, add slight color, and
eliminate unwanted color tones
Activity 2: Have students create a wall chart on poster board with two columns: one for
shampoos and one for conditioners. Then have students perform litmus tests on a variety of
shampoo products used in the school and record test results on the chart. Leave conditioner
column blank until after the topic is covered in class. Refer to Supplement 8.1.

B. Conditioners
1. Refers to either hair conditioners or scalp conditioners
2. Hair conditioners: moisturize the hair; help to restore natural oils and proteins; pH of 3.0
to 5.5.
a. Temporary remedies for dry or damaged hair
b. Excessive use or wrong type can cause product buildup; can make hair heavy or oily
3. Scalp conditioners: for general maintenance or to treat conditions requiring a medicinal
product
4. Basic types of conditioners: instant, treatment or repair, and leave-in
a. Instant: applied following a shampoo; rinsed after 1 to 5 minutes
1. Low pH; does not penetrate hair shaft; may add oils, moisture, and sometimes protein
2. Examples: finishing, detangling, and cream rinses

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 b. Treatment or repair: include moisturizing, protein, deep-conditioning, and synthetic polymer
conditioners
1. Moisturizing: uses humectants to draw and lock in moisture; rinsed after 10 to 20 minutes
2. Protein: cream or liquid form; partially replace lost keratin in cortex to strengthen hair
3. Deep-conditioning treatment: protein in cream moisturizer; strengthens and moisturizes
4. Synthetic polymer: used on badly damaged hair; may prevent further breakage or correct
excessive porosity
c. Leave-in: designed for use with thermal tools or to equalize the porosity of the hair shaft
5. Scalp conditioners: available for different purposes
a. Cream-based: moisturizers and emollients soften and improve health of the scalp
b. Medicated: promote healing of the scalp
c. Astringent tonics: help remove oil accumulation on the scalp
Activity 3: Perform pH test on conditioners used in the school and add results to wall chart.

C. Rinses
1. Agents used to cleanse and condition the hair and scalp, bring out luster, or add highlights
2. Three basic rinse categories
a. Water: used to wet and rinse the hair during the shampoo service
b. Medicated: formulated to control minor dandruff and scalp conditions
c. Bluing: contains blue base color to neutralize yellowish or dull gray tones in hair
D. Tonics
1. Solutions that stimulate the scalp, help to correct a scalp condition, or are used as a grooming
aid
2. Available in nonalcoholic, alcoholic, emulsion, and oil mixture formulations
a. Nonalcoholic: usually contain an antiseptic solution and hair-grooming ingredients
b. Alcohol-based: consist of an antiseptic and alcohol combination that acts as a mild
astringent
c. Cream tonics: emulsions containing lanolin and mineral oils
d. Oil mixture: contain alcohol with oil floating on the top; used as a grooming agent
3. Note: Scalp massage should be used with tonic applications for maximum benefit.
E. Other Cosmetic Preparations
1. Astringents: may contain 35 percent alcohol; cause contraction of tissues
2. Cake or pancake makeup: used to cover scars and pigmentation defects
3. Cleansing creams: used during facials and shaves for cleansing the skin
4. Cleansing lotions: same purpose as cleansing cream; lighter consistency; water-based
5. Depilatories: used for temporary removal of hair by dissolving it at the skin line
6. Epilators: wax products that remove hair by pulling it out of the follicle
7. Eye lotions: formulas of boric acid, bicarbonate of soda, etc., designed to soothe the eyes
8. Fresheners: also known as skin-freshening lotions; lowest alcohol content (0 to 4 percent);
designed for dry, mature, and sensitive skin types
9. Greasepaint: heavy make-up used for theatrical purposes
10. Hair spray: used to hold the finished style
11. Hairdressings: give shine and manageability to dry, wet, or curly hair
12. Masks or packs: used in facials for many purposes and skin conditions
13. Massage creams: used to help the hands to glide over the skin during a facial
14. Medicated lotions: prescriptions for skin problems such as acne, rashes, or other eruptions
15. Moisturizing creams: designed to treat dry-skin conditions

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 16. Pastes: soft, moist cosmetics with a thick consistency
17. Scalp lotions and ointments: contain medicinal agents for scalp-condition correction
18. Sticks: may be similar to ointments and powders; examples: styptic stick and eyebrow pencil
19. Styling aids: gels, mousses, etc., designed to give the hair body and texture
20. Suntan lotions: designed to protect the skin from the harmful ultraviolet rays of the sun
21. Toners: usual alcohol content of 4 to 15 percent; designed for use on normal or combination
skin
22. Wrinkle-treatment creams: designed to conceal lines on aging skin

7. United States Pharmacopeia (USP)

A. Defines and standardizes drugs used by the public

B. Common chemical ingredients used in hair and skin products
1. Alcohols
a. Readily evaporating, colorless liquids obtained from the fermentation of starch, sugar, and
other carbohydrates
b. Function as solvents
c. Found in shampoos, conditioners, hair colorants, hair sprays, tonics, and styling aids
d. Fatty alcohols used as conditioners
e. 70 percent ethyl may be used to sanitize cutting implements and electrodes only if approved
by state board. Alcohol is not an EPA-registered disinfectant.
f. 50 to 60 percent isopropyl can be applied to the skin.
2. Alkanolamines: substances used to neutralize acids or raise the pH of many hair products
3. Alum: aluminum potassium or ammonium sulphate; has a strong astringent action; used in
styptic powder
4. Ammonia: colorless gas of hydrogen and nitrogen used to raise the pH in certain hair products
5. Ammonia water: used as a cleansing agent and with hydrogen peroxide in lightening hair
6. Boric acid: used for its bactericidal and fungicidal properties in baby powder, eye creams, etc.
7. Ethyl methacrylate: compound of ethyl alcohol and methacrylic acid; used in sculptured nails
8. Formaldehyde: used as a disinfectant, fungicide, germicide, and preservative; toxic
9. Glycerin: used as a solvent and as a skin moisturizer in cuticle oils and facial creams
10. Hydrogen peroxide: compound of hydrogen and oxygen; used as an oxidizer
11. Petrolatum: used in wax epilators, eyebrow pencils, lipsticks, protective creams, etc., to soften
and smooth the skin
12. Phenol: also known as carbolic acid; 5 percent solution is used to sanitize metallic implements
13. Phenylenediamine: derivatives are known to penetrate the skin; may cause cancer
14. Potassium hydroxide: used for its emulsifying abilities in hand lotions, liquid soaps, etc.
15. Quaternary ammonium compounds: disinfectant found in antiseptics, germicides, etc.
16. Silicones: special type of oil used in hair conditioners and as a water-resistant lubricant
17. Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda): used as a neutralizing agent in certain preparations
18. Sodium carbonate: used in shampoos and waving solutions; absorbs water from the air
19. Witch hazel: used as an astringent and skin freshener; contains alcohol
20. Zinc oxide: used cosmetically in face powder, foundation cream, and sunscreen products

SUMMARY/REVIEW: What did we learn and do today?

1. Defined organic and inorganic chemistry.

2. Discussed and provided examples of the four states of matter.
3. Defined and discussed elements, compounds, and mixtures.

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 4. Described the differences between solutions, suspensions, and emulsions and provided examples
of each.
5. Performed a hard-water test (optional).
6. Defined and discussed pH and the pH scale.
7. Discussed the reactions of acidic and alkaline solutions on the hair and skin.
8. Explained and provided examples of the oxidation process and reduction reactions.
9. Discussed pH factor as it relates to haircare products.
10. Identified the parts of the shampoo molecule and shampoo classifications.
11. Identified and discussed different types of shampoos, conditioners, rinses, and tonics.
12. Tested shampoo and conditioning products available in the school and created a wall chart of the
results (optional, but recommended).
13. Reviewed and discussed other types of cosmetic preparations.
14. Discussed some common cosmetic ingredients from the U.S. Pharmacopeia.

THEORY REVIEW QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

1. What is organic chemistry?

Answer: The study of substances that contain carbon; all living things are made of compounds that
contain carbon.
2. What is inorganic chemistry?
Answer: The study of substances that do not contain carbon but may contain hydrogen; inorganic
substances are not and never were alive.
3. What are the three states of matter?
Answer: Solids, liquids, and gases
4. What are elements, compounds, and mixtures?
Answer: Elements are the basic units of all matter and are substances that cannot be separated
into simpler substances by chemical means. Compounds are chemical combinations of two or
more atoms of different elements. A mixture is a combination of two or more substances united
physically in any proportion without a fixed composition.
5. What type of water is best for hair and skin services in the barbershop?
Answer: Soft water
6. What are the differences between and characteristics of solutions, suspensions, and emulsions?
Answer: A solution is a mixture of two or more mixable substances that is made by dissolving a
solid, liquid, or gaseous substance in another substance. Solutions are usually clear or transparent
permanent mixtures of solute and solvent that do not separate upon standing. Suspensions are
uniform mixtures of two or more substances. Suspensions are not usually transparent, may be
colored, and tend to separate over time. Emulsions are mixtures of two immiscible liquids held
together by an emulsifying agent. An emulsion is a suspension of one liquid dispersed in another.
Emulsions tend to separate over time, but may remain stable for at least three years with proper
formulation and storage.
7. What is meant by pH?
Answer: The letters pH refer to the potential hydrogen of a solution. The term pH means the
relative degree of acidity or alkalinity of a substance.
8. What does the pH scale look like?
Answer: A logarithmic scale that measures from 0 to 14; 7 indicates a neutral solution; below 7
indicates an acidic solution, and above 7 indicates an alkaline solution.
9. What is oxidation?
Answer: A chemical reaction that combines an element or compound with oxygen to produce an
oxide

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 10. What is reduction?
Answer: The process that occurs when oxygen is subtracted from a substance through chemical
reaction
11. What are the parts and functions of the shampoo molecule?
Answer: The head of the shampoo molecule attracts water and repels dirt; the tail of the shampoo
molecule attracts dirt and repels water. Both parts work together to cleanse the hair.
12. What ingredients are found in the chemical composition of a shampoo?
Answer: Water, surfactants, moisturizers, preservatives, foam enhancers, perfumes, and other
ingredients
13. What are the three basic types of shampoo?
Answer: Liquid, liquid-dry, and powder formulations
14. What are the characteristics of anionic, cationic, nonionic, and amphoteric surfactants?
Answer: Anionics: most commonly used; produce rich foam; suitable for use in hard or soft water.
Cationics: contain quaternary ammonium compounds; have an antibacterial action; may be used
in dandruff shampoos. Nonionics: versatile, stable, and have the ability to resist shrinkage; mild
cleansing action; low incidence of irritation to human tissues. Amphoterics: act as anionic or
cationic substances, depending on solution’s pH; cling to hair and skin; aid in hair manageability;
germicidal properties; may be used in baby shampoo; do not sting the eyes.
15. Why is the acidity or alkalinity of products important to the barber?
Answer: Because the pH level influences how that product will affect layers of the hair and skin
16. What effects do acidic solutions and alkaline solutions have on hair and skin?
Answer: Acidic solutions cause the hair and skin to harden, contract, or shrink; alkaline solutions
cause softening, swelling, or expansion of the hair and skin.
17. List seven types of conditioners.
Answer: Instant, moisturizing, protein, deep-conditioning, synthetic-polymer, leave-in, and scalp
conditioners
18. What hair type or condition might require a synthetic polymer?
Answer: Severely damaged hair
19. What are some different types of hair tonics?
Answer: Nonalcoholic, alcoholic, emulsion creams, and oil-mixture formulations
20. Where can we find information about some of the common chemical ingredients used in the
formulation of hair and skin products?
Answer: The U.S. Pharmacopeia

ASSIGNMENTS

1. Read Chapter 9: Electricity and Light Therapy.

2. Begin Workbook Chapter 9: Electricity and Light Therapy; due date: _______.
3. Test home water source to determine if it is hard or soft water (optional).

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 Textbook Chapter Review Questions and Answers
Chapter 8: Chemistry
1. Define organic and inorganic chemistry.
Organic chemistry is the study of substances that contain carbon. All living things are made of
compounds that contain carbon. Inorganic chemistry is the study of substances that do not contain
carbon but may contain hydrogen. Inorganic substances are not and never were alive.
2. List the three states of matter.
Solids, liquids, and gases
3. Define elements, compounds, and mixtures.
Elements are the basic materials of matter. An element is a substance that cannot be separated
into simpler substances by chemical means. Compounds are chemical combinations of two or
more atoms of different elements. A mixture is a combination of two or more substances united
physically in any proportions without a fixed composition.
4. Describe the differences between solutions, suspensions, and emulsions.
A solution is a mixture of two or more mixable substances that is made by dissolving a solid, liquid,
or gaseous substance in another substance. Solutions are usually clear or transparent permanent
mixtures of solute and solvent that do not separate upon standing. Suspensions are uniform
mixtures of two or more substances. Suspensions are not usually transparent, may be colored, and
tend to separate over time. Emulsions are mixtures of two immiscible liquids held together by an
emulsifying agent. An emulsion is a suspension of one liquid dispersed in another. Emulsions tend
to separate over time, but may remain stable for at least three years with proper formulation and
storage.
5. Define pH and draw a pH scale.
The letters pH refer to the potential hydrogen of a solution, and the term pH means the relative
degree of acidity or alkalinity of a substance.
Note: Students’ illustrations of the pH scale will vary, but all should include the range of 0 to 14,
with 7 clearly identified as neutral. Add other required pH levels (hair and skin, shampoos, etc.) to
the assignment as desired.
6. What effect do strong to mild acidic solutions have on hair?
They contract or harden the hair.
7. What effect do mild alkaline solutions have on hair?
They soften and swell the hair.
8. Explain oxidation and reduction reactions. Give an example of each.
Oxidation is a chemical reaction that combines an element or compound with oxygen to produce
an oxide. An example is when hydrogen peroxide is mixed with an oxidation haircolor and the
haircolor gains oxygen. Reduction is the process that occurs when oxygen is subtracted from a
substance through chemical reaction. An example is when hydrogen peroxide loses the oxygen
that is mixed with an oxidation haircolor. The hydrogen peroxide is reduced.
9. Why is the acidity or alkalinity of hair care products important to the barber?
Because the acidity or alkalinity influences how that product will affect various layers of the hair
and skin, and the barber needs to be aware of these effects

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 10. Identify the parts and functions of the shampoo molecule.
The tail of a shampoo molecule attracts dirt, grease, debris, and oil, but repels water; the head of
the shampoo molecule attracts water, but repels dirt, so the molecules work together to cleanse
the hair.
11. List three general shampoo categories.
Liquid, liquid-dry, and dry or powder formulations
12. What type of shampoo is generally recommended for normal, chemically treated, or fragile hair?
Acid-balanced shampoos
13. What type of conditioner is generally applied to the hair for 1 to 5 minutes?
Instant conditioner
14. Identify the hair condition that may require a synthetic polymer.
Badly damaged hair
15. List four types of hair tonics.
Nonalcoholic, alcoholic, cream, and oil tonics

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 Test—Chapter 8
CHEMISTRY
Read each statement carefully. Circle the letter that correctly completes each of the following statements.
1. Chemistry is the science that deals with the composition, structure, and properties of:
a) planning c) theories
b) instruction d) matter
2. Organic substances contain:
a) sodium c) carbon
b) mercury d) hydrogen
3. An example of an inorganic substance is:
a) metal c) gasoline
b) synthetic fabric d) plastic
4. Anything that occupies space is called:
a) matter c) water
b) hydrogen d) an emulsion
5. Solids, liquids, and gases are considered to be forms of:
a) a substance c) energy
b) matter d) a property
6. A substance that cannot be separated into simpler substances by chemical means is a/an:
a) atom c) element
b) compound d) mixture
7. The smallest part of an element that retains the characteristics of that element is a/an:
a) elemental molecule c) mixture
b) atom d) molecule
8. When two or more atoms are joined by a chemical bond, they form a/an:
a) product c) element
b) compound d) molecule
9. The three types of matter are solids, liquids, and:
a) solutions c) gases
b) mixtures d) compounds
10. Properties that can be determined without chemical reaction and change in the identity of the
substance are:
a) chemical properties c) physical properties
b) elemental properties d) compound properties
11. The change that occurs in burning wood through oxidation is a/an:
a) physical change c) elemental change
b) chemical change d) compound change

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 12. An example of a physical change as it relates to hair services is:
a) temporary haircolor c) permanent haircolor
b) permanent waving d) hair relaxing
13. An example of a chemical change as it relates to hair services is:
a) shampooing c) permanent haircolor
b) rinsing d) temporary haircolor
14. Elements and compounds are examples of:
a) chemical substances c) molecular substances
b) pure substances d) compromised substances
15. An example of a pure substance is:
a) wax paper c) water
b) aluminum foil d) plastic wrap
16. An example of a chemical compound is:
a) water c) a mixture
b) salt water d) a solution
17. Pure hydrogen peroxide is a:
a) chemical compound c) physical mixture
b) solution d) alkali
18. The four classifications of compounds are acids, bases, salts, and:
a) mixtures c) substances
b) oxides d) alkalis
19. When two or more elements combine physically in any proportion, they form a:
a) physical compound c) physical mixture
b) solution d) base
20. Two examples of a physical mixture are pure air and:
a) salt c) acids
b) concrete d) alkalis
21. The liquid that is considered to be the universal solvent is:
a) alcohol c) bleach
b) peroxide d) water
22. Water is a compound composed of:
a) two hydrogen atoms and c) one hydrogen and two
one oxygen atom oxygen atoms
b) two hydrogen atoms and d) one hydrogen atom and
two oxygen atoms one oxygen atom

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 23. The best type of water to use in the barbershop is:
a) distilled water c) soft water
b) mineral water d) hard water
24. Hard water can be softened by:
a) freezing c) shaking
b) distillation d) decomposition
25. Liquid soaps and other soaps lather easily in the presence of:
a) soft water c) mineral water
b) hard water d) an emulsion
26. The pH of a liquid refers to its degree of potential:
a) hydroxide c) hydrogen
b) heat d) hardness
27. The pH of a water-based solution measures its degree of:
a) softness or hardness c) heat or cold
b) acidity or alkalinity d) neutrality
28. An ion is an atom or molecule that carries a/an:
a) neutral charge c) gene
b) chemical charge d) electrical charge
29. The hydrogen ion in water is:
a) neutral c) acidic
b) alkaline d) neither a, b, or c
30. The hydroxide ion in water is:
a) neutral c) acidic
b) alkaline d) neither a, b, nor c
31. The pH range of hair and skin is:
a) 3.5 to 4.5 c) 4.5 to 5.5
b) 4.5 to 6.5 d) 5.5 to 6.5
32. Acidic solutions will neutralize the effects of:
a) alkaline solutions c) heat or cold conditions
b) salt solutions d) stress on the hair
33. The chemical reaction that combines an element or compound with oxygen to produce an oxide is
known as:
a) neutralization c) oxidation
b) reduction d) distillation
34. The process of removing oxygen from a substance is known as:
a) neutralization c) oxidation
b) reduction d) distillation

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 35. Hydrogen peroxide is an example of a/an:
a) distiller c) oxidizer
b) salt d) alkaline
36. In a redox reaction:
a) the oxidizer is reduced c) a and b
b) the reducing agent d) neither a nor b
is oxidized
37. A mixture of two or more substances that is made by dissolving a solid, liquid, or gaseous
substance in another substance is known as a/an:
a) solution c) suspension
b) ointment d) powder
38. A substance that is dissolved into a solvent is known as a:
a) solution c) prime solvent
b) suspension d) solute
39. The substance that dissolves the solute is known as the:
a) solution c) solvent
b) suspension d) solute
40. An example of a suspension is:
a) a quat solution c) witch hazel
b) hair oil tonic d) shampoo
41. An example of an emulsion is:
a) a quat solution c) witch hazel
b) hair oil tonic d) a shampoo product
42. Substances that act as a bridge to allow oil and water to mix or emulsify are called:
a) bleaches c) quats
b) surfactants d) solutions
43. Cosmetic preparations that cause the contraction of skin tissues are:
a) fresheners c) facial toners
b) astringents d) a, b, and c
44. The basic purpose of a cold cream is to:
a) eradicate wrinkles c) strengthen facial muscles
b) cleanse the skin d) reduce fat cells
45. Moisturizing cream causes the skin to:
a) harden c) soften
b) roughen d) wrinkle
46. Preparations that temporarily remove superfluous hair by dissolving it at the skin line are:
a) depilatories c) razors
b) epilators d) waxes
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 47. Preparations, such as wax, that remove hair by pulling it out of the follicle are a type of:
a) depilatory c) tweezers
b) epilator d) exfoliator
48. Scalp lotions and ointments usually contain:
a) surfactants c) alcohol
b) witch hazel d) medicinal agents
49. The primary ingredient in styptic powder or liquid is:
a) talc c) alcohol
b) alum d) witch hazel
50. Shaving soaps used in the barbershop usually contain animal or vegetable oils, water, and:
a) zinc oxide c) acids
b) alkaline substances d) astringents
51. Witch hazel is a solution that acts as a/an:
a) astringent c) suspension
b) emulsion d) acid
52. Suntan lotions are measured according to their:
a) SPF c) sun’s rays
b) PABA d) ultraviolet rays
53. The main purpose of a shampoo is to:
a) make hair easier to comb c) treat alopecia areata
b) cleanse the hair and scalp d) soften the scalp
54. Shampoo products should be selected according to the:
a) barber’s preference c) condition of the client’s hair and scalp
b) client’s preference d) cost
55. The condition of the hair and scalp is most influenced by the shampoo product’s:
a) color c) thickness
b) acidity or alkalinity d) lathering ability
56. Solutions that shrink, constrict, and harden the cuticle scales usually have a/an:
a) acidic pH level c) alkaline pH level
b) neutral pH level d) harsh pH level
57. Solutions that soften, swell, or expand the cuticle scales usually have a/an:
a) acidic pH level c) alkaline pH level
b) neutral pH level d) harsh pH level
58. Shampoo products are usually manufactured in the form of:
a) ointments c) gels
b) emulsions d) solutions

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 59. The usual pH range of shampoos is:
a) 3.5 to 4.5 c) 4.5 to 7.5
b) 4.5 to 6.5 d) 5.5 to 8.5
60. The main ingredients in a shampoo product are:
a) water and soap c) soaps and oils
b) water and surfactants d) water, buffers, and binders
61. The portion of the shampoo molecule that attracts water and repels dirt is the:
a) head c) belly
b) middle d) tail
62. The portion of the shampoo molecule that attracts dirt and repels water is the:
a) head c) belly
b) middle d) tail
63. The type of shampoo that is very effective in reducing dandruff is the:
a) green soap shampoo c) liquid dry shampoo
b) therapeutic medicated d) egg shampoo
shampoo
64. A shampoo formulated to prevent the stripping of permanent hair color from hair is a/an:
a) alkaline shampoo c) castile soap shampoo
b) medicated shampoo d) acid-balanced shampoo
65. Shampoos that are designed for oily hair and scalp are often:
a) balancing shampoos c) moisturizing shampoos
b) clarifying shampoos d) medicated shampoos
66. Shampoo products designed to cut through product buildup are usually:
a) balancing shampoos c) dry shampoos
b) clarifying shampoos d) medicated shampoos
67. Mild cream shampoos that contain humectants are known as:
a) balancing shampoos c) moisturizing shampoos
b) clarifying shampoos d) medicated shampoos
68. Special chemical agents designed to deposit protein or moisture in the hair are:
a) shampoos c) styling aids
b) conditioners d) scalp ointments
69. The basic types of conditioners include all of the following except:
a) instant c) emulsifying
b) treatment or repair d) leave-in
70. Finishing, detangling, and cream rinses are examples of:
a) instant conditioners c) protein conditioners
b) moisturizing conditioners d) leave-in conditioners

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 71. Conditioners that draw moisture into the hair contain:
a) salts c) clarifying substances
b) humectants d) oxides
72. Conditioners that penetrate the cortex to replace lost keratin are:
a) instant conditioners c) protein conditioners
b) moisturizing conditioners d) leave-in conditioners
73. Concentrated protein in a heavy cream base moisturizer is usually a:
a) deep conditioner c) clarifying conditioner
b) moisturizing conditioner d) leave-in conditioner
74. Leave-in conditioners:
a) should not be rinsed out c) help to equalize porosity
b) may be used with thermal d) a, b, and c
tools
75. Rinses that are formulated to control minor dandruff and scalp conditions are:
a) water rinses c) medicated rinses
b) bluing rinses d) tonic rinses
76. A rinse designed to counteract yellowish or dull gray tones in the hair is a:
a) water rinse c) medicated rinse
b) bluing rinse d) tonic rinse
77. A cosmetic solution that can stimulate the scalp, correct a scalp condition, or be used as a
grooming aid is a:
a) conditioner c) hair tonic
b) styling spray d) shampoo
78. The usual pH range of hair conditioners is:
a) 2.0 to 5.5 c) 4.0 to 7.5
b) 3.0 to 5.5 d) 6.0 to 8.5
79. Tonic emulsions containing lanolin and mineral oils for use in styling are:
a) nonalcoholic tonics c) cream tonics
b) alcoholic tonics d) oil mixture tonics
80. A hair tonic that may contain an antiseptic is:
a) nonalcoholic tonics c) a and b
b) alcoholic tonics d) neither a nor b

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 Answer Key—Chapter 8
CHEMISTRY

1. d 11. b 21. d 31. c 41. d 51. a 61. a 71. b

2. c 12. a 22. a 32. a 42. b 52. a 62. d 72. c
3. a 13. c 23. c 33. c 43. d 53. b 63. b 73. a
4. a 14. b 24. b 34. b 44. b 54. c 64. d 74. d
5. b 15. b 25. a 35. c 45. c 55. b 65. a 75. c
6. c 16. a 26. c 36. c 46. a 56. a 66. b 76. b
7. b 17. a 27. b 37. a 47. b 57. c 67. c 77. c
8. d 18. b 28. d 38. d 48. d 58. b 68. b 78. b
9. c 19. c 29. c 39. c 49. b 59. c 69. c 79. c
10. c 20. b 30. b 40. b 50. b 60. b 70. a 80. c

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 Supplement 8.0
CHANGES IN THE STATES OF MATTER

When energy is added through temperature or increased pressure

GAS

or taken away through freezing or decreased pressure

changes occur in the states of matter.
+ Energy
LIQUID
+ Energy
SOLID

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 Supplement 8.1
PRODUCTS pH LEVEL TEST CHART

Product Name Manufacturer pH Level Recommended

Category Hair Type or Condition

Shampoo XYZ ACME 5.0 This column to be

completed during
Chapter 12

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