FRANÇOIS PERRET

Pastry Chef at the Ritz Paris

with ÉRIC NEBOT

The Fabulous Culinary Odyssey

of a French Pastry Chef in California

Flammarion
 Text by Éric Nebot
Recipes by François Perret, with the exception of those on pages 60 and 78

Photographs: © Bernhard Winkelmann / Flammarion for pages 10, 16, 19, 21, 23, 25, 63, 70–71,
92–93, 107, 109, 126–27, 128–29, 144–45, 147, 151, 153, 155, 161, 163, 165, 167, 169
© Ashley Maxwell for page 61
© Pascal Shirley for page 79
All of the other photographs: © 2021 The Chef in a Truck

Design: Delphine Delastre

Editor: Ryma Bouzid

English Edition
Editorial Director: Kate Mascaro
Editor: Helen Adedotun
Translated from the French by Magda Schmit
Copyediting: Wendy Sweetser
Typesetting: Gravemaker+Scott
Proofreading: Rachel Doux
Production: Louisa Hanifi and Christelle Lemonnier
Color Separation: IGS, L’Isle d’Espagnac
Printed in Slovenia by DZS Grafik

Simultaneously published in French as The Chef in a Truck: La Fabuleuse odyssée culinaire

d’un pâtissier français en Californie
© Flammarion, S.A., Paris, 2021

English-language edition
© Flammarion, S.A., Paris, 2021

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic,
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Flammarion, S.A.
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ISBN: 978-2-0802-7306-2

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 FRANÇOIS PERRET
Pastry Chef at the Ritz Paris
with ÉRIC NEBOT

The Fabulous Culinary Odyssey

of a French Pastry Chef in California

Flammarion
CONTENTS
MY GRANDMOTHER AND I: A TALE OF LOVE AND CUISINE  11

AN EXTRAORDINARY ENCOUNTER!  15
MADELEINE ENTREMETS  18
MY VANILLA CUSTARD  22
MARBLE CAKE  24
SUGARED STRAWBERRIES WITH CREAM  26
MILK BRIOCHE CLOUD WITH CARAMEL SAUCE  30
BUDDHA’S-HAND PAVLOVA WITH CREAMY RICE PUDDING
AND CRISPY MERINGUE  34

CALIFORNIA  44

MILK JAR COOKIES  57

CHOCOLATE PECAN AND CARAMEL COOKIES BY COURTNEY COWAN  60

AMERICAN DESSERTS  62

DONUTS  68

CHEZ ROSE  75
SWEET CORN AGNOLOTTI BY JASON NERONI AT THE ROSE VENICE  78

HEAVENLY ICE CREAM  82

REINVENTING  90

FARMERS’ MARKET  114

THE BIG DAY WAS APPROACHING  120

THE LAST STOP  124

FRANÇOIS PERRET’S RECIPE JOURNAL  141

WHISKY BABAS WITH CHANTILLY CREAM  142
CARROT-SHAPED CARROT CAKE  146
LIKE A COOKIE  149
CHOCOLATE AND RASPBERRY DONUTS  152
FENNEL SALAD  154
S’MORES POPSICLES  156
ASPARAGUS TACOS  160
CORN TACOS  164
PEAR TACOS WITH AVOCADO HONEY  168
THE KUMQUAT  170

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  173
My Grandmother
and I: A tale
of love
and cuisine
It was love imparted through taste. T he love of flavorsome food.
T he love of passing down knowledge, of cooking, relishing,
talking, and sharing. Cooking was my grandmother’s
unbreakable bond with others, with her family, and with me.
Éric Nebot

Baking was always an important part of our felt a vital need to fill. I did this through a love
relationship. When I was very young, I learned of good food. It was as if taste had become a
to make my first cake with her. It was a yogurt divine means of communication between us.
cake, and the recipe was extremely simple   In 2017, I went to live in Los Angeles. The
thanks to the foolproof memory aid of 1-2-3-4. city’s culinary culture is vibrant. The climate
provides the perfect conditions for a wide
Tip 1 pot of plain yogurt into a mixing bowl range of high-quality fruits and vegetables
and then, using the empty yogurt pot, add: throughout the year. There are also excellent
1 pot of oil pastries made using superior ingredients—
2 pots of sugar larger than life pastries that are generous and
3 pots of flour beautiful. It’s a vast city where you can often
4 eggs enjoy great food, when you know the right
1 tablespoon of baking powder places to go.
1 pinch of salt (never forget the salt, even   Living as an expat for the past four years, I
in cakes and pastries!) follow French pastry chefs on social media.
And the finely grated zest of 1 lemon I am often blown away by the photos they
Stir everything together until well mixed post on Instagram, each one more incredible
and transfer to a cake pan. than the last. I excitedly plan tastings
Bake in an oven preheated to 350°F (180°C/ whenever I return to France, but am frequently
Gas Mark 4) for 45 minutes. disappointed by the taste, which rarely lives up
And that’s it! to my expectations and the promise conveyed
by the pictures posted online. Rarely, until one
When my grandmother passed away, I was day in May 2018.
left with an unimaginable void in my life that I

11
An extraordinary
encounter!
François Perret’s masterpiece—his Proustian madeleine—is
testament to the mysterious magic of the art of patisserie. His
trompe l’œil madeleine is a fusion of traditional and modern
cuisine in a sublime wrapping. While the dessert looks exactly
like a conventional madeleine, François Perret’s genius
becomes apparent when your silver fork divides the cake in two.
Instead of finding simple sponge inside, you marvel at the slight
tang of chestnut honey, the crunch of toasted almonds, the
lightness of Savoy sponge, and the velvetiness of vanilla cream.

In 2018, I came across an article entitled, way across the countryside and the scent of
“François Perret’s Stratospheric Patisseries.” fresh herbs mingling under my nose create a
I read it, looked at the pictures, and soon fragrance that is forever anchored to my spirit.
developed an obsession with Perret’s creations. Whenever I went to visit my grandmother
I had to taste them, and soon. I took advantage between April and September (the strawberry
of a business trip to Paris to visit the hotel season), I eagerly awaited lunchtime for the real
where François Perret works, and I ordered highlight of my visits: strawberries with sugar
all the desserts. The entire menu. Everything. and cream. Has there ever been a dessert
The madeleine may have left its impact on so simple yet so satisfying? I remember one
Marcel Proust, but the feelings of nostalgia sunny spring day, when I was devouring my
that its shell-like grooves evoke overwhelm all strawberries, my grandmother took me aside to
generations. Everyone has their own childhood explain to me why it is scientifically necessary
reminiscences of this little cake in France, to add sugar to strawberries, even the best
and each mouthful of Perret’s entremets strawberries on earth. Was there a reason?
encapsulates a memory that will resonate The only reason in my eyes was because it
inside you for a long time. His madeleine was delicious! But in fact, as I discovered that
entremets, marble cake, vanilla meringue, day, the love of good food can converge with
caramel barquette, vanilla plated dessert, science. Sugar, when added to strawberries,
chocolate plated dessert, and . . . his iconic produces a syrup. The fruit itself contains water
sugared strawberries with cream. and natural sugars, so adding sugar to the fruit
  I’d like to take a moment to talk about this last triggers osmosis. The water, concentrated in
dessert: sugared strawberries with cream. the strawberry’s juice, is drawn outward, giving
  Memories from my childhood come flooding it a sweeter, more syrupy taste and adding
back. The cool sea breeze that is carried all the texture.

15
François’s sugared strawberries could be ordinary—yet
they are anything but.

A plate arrived at my table with several soon as I remove the cloche, inhale deeply.”
strawberries on it. The maître d’hôtel I was intrigued, not only by what was hidden
approached, added a spoonful of cream, and beneath the lid but also by what I was about
sprinkled large grains of sugar over the top. to experience. The maître d’ lifted the cloche,
I looked at him, almost suspiciously. Was he I took a deep breath, and everything around
pulling my leg? Was this really just strawberries me reeled. The scent was indescribable: the
with cream and sugar? I wondered if it was a aromas of chocolate were like nothing I’d
joke. But, no, it wasn’t. I picked up a strawberry ever smelled before, and the fragrance will be
with my spoon and put it in my mouth. The forever engraved on my memory.
maître d’ had told me to eat the green hull, so   The visual impact of the dessert followed,
I did just that—and suddenly nothing was as it but, to be honest, I was a little disappointed
was supposed to be. Or rather, everything was after being hit with such an olfactory punch.
even better. There was a chocolate coil in the center,
  As the strawberry exploded in my mouth, it a je ne sais quoi that I could barely guess at,
was ecstasy. What was inside? It was impossible and chocolate sauce all around. The maître d’
to describe. I cut the second strawberry to try explained that the aroma was due to a chemical
and understand, and it was then that I realized reaction between the very cold frozen parfait
the strawberries had been literally hollowed out. in the center of the chocolate coil and the hot
Only a thin layer of the outer flesh remained, serving plate. Inspired! With a preconceived
and inside were succulent cooked and raw idea of its texture, I got ready to taste this
strawberries that had been finely chopped and coiled chocolate serpent—and once again,
macerated. They were accompanied by the my preconception was proven totally wrong.
finest cream from the French town of Bresse, This chocolate serpent, whose visual impact
a sprinkling of crunchy sugar, and a trompe l’œil fell short of the intensity of its aroma, was so
hull that revealed itself to be a butter cookie designed to better deceive you and lead you in
flavored with basil. the wrong direction, as it was not a chocolate
  The chocolate dessert arrived next. The coil at all, but a butter cookie. The finest
maître d’ informed me that this dish was not butter cookie that I have ever tasted, with an
simply for tasting—I needed to use my other unimaginable flavor and texture. Who was the
senses. All of my senses, I wondered? The plate genius hiding behind these desserts?
was covered with a cloche and, before lifting   There was only one thought in my head: I had
it off, he told me to move closer, adding, “As to meet him.

17
MADELEINE ENTREMETS
I created a special mold myself to make this dessert. Here, however, I have adapted the recipe so
that it can be made in a 5½-in. (14-cm) baking ring, with a depth of 2 in. (5 cm).

SERVES 4

PREPARATION: 3 HOURS + CHILLING AND FREEZING  ✴ COOKING: 38 MINUTES

INFUSING: 10 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE

INGREDIENTS To prepare the sponge cake

Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas Mark 2). Spread out the
Savoy sponge cake with almonds sliced almonds on a silicone baking mat or cookie sheet lined
1 oz. (25 g) sliced almonds
with parchment paper and toast them in the oven for about
2 medium eggs
(scant ½ cup/100 g)
8 minutes, watching them carefully to make sure they do not
Scant ½ cup (3 oz./80 g) superfine burn. Remove the almonds from the mat or sheet and set aside.
sugar   Increase the oven temperature to 325°F (160°C/Gas Mark 3)
1½ oz. (40 g) butter, melted and on fan setting.
still warm   Whisk the eggs and sugar together in a mixing bowl until pale
Generous ⅓ cup (1¾ oz./50 g) and doubled in volume. Gently fold in the warm melted butter.
all-purpose flour
Sift together the flour, potato starch, and baking powder, and
1 oz. (30 g) potato starch
¾ tsp baking powder
fold into the whisked mixture using a flexible spatula.
Butter and flour for the baking   Lightly grease the 4¾-in. (12-cm) baking ring with butter and
ring dust with flour. Set the baking ring on the silicone mat or cookie
sheet lined with fresh parchment paper. Pour the cake batter
Vanilla syrup into the ring until it is half-filled, then scatter the toasted almonds
Scant ½ cup (100 ml) water over the top. Bake for 30 minutes.
2½ tbsp (1 oz./30 g) superfine
  Remove the cake from the oven and let cool. Unmold by
sugar
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise
running the blade of a knife around the edge, between the
sponge and the ring, then lift off the ring. The sponge needs
Caramel crémeux to be 1 in. (2.5 cm) thick, so trim the top using a serrated knife if
1 sheet (2 g) gelatin necessary. Wash and dry the baking ring. Stretch plastic wrap
1 cup (12 oz./340 g) chestnut over the top and set it upside down on the silicone mat or
honey cookie sheet so the base is lined with the plastic wrap.
Scant 2 tbsp (1½ oz./40 g) acacia
honey
3 tbsp (60 g) glucose syrup
To prepare the vanilla syrup
Scant 1 cup (210 ml) whipping Heat the water and sugar in a saucepan until the sugar dissolves.
cream Bring to a boil and add the vanilla bean. Take off the heat and
3 medium egg yolks (2¾ tbsp/45 g) let infuse. When cool, lightly brush the syrup over the sponge to
moisten it.
Pastry cream
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise
To prepare the caramel crémeux
Scant ⅔ cup (150 ml) whole milk
1 tsp unsalted butter
Soak the gelatin in a bowl of cold water until softened. Heat
1 large egg yolk (1 tbsp/20 g) the chestnut honey, acacia honey, and glucose in a saucepan
2¼ tbsp (¾ oz./20 g) light brown until the temperature reaches 300°F (150°C) on an instant-read
sugar thermometer. While the honey mixture is heating, warm the
1 tbsp (10 g) cornstarch cream in a separate saucepan. Stir the hot cream into the honey
mixture to prevent further cooking. Remove from the heat.
➞
➞

18
Chantilly mousse   Set a mixing bowl over a bed of ice. Whisk the egg yolks in a
1 sheet (2 g) gelatin separate bowl, then whisk in a little of the hot cream mixture. Pour
1½ cups (350 ml) whipping cream it back into the saucepan and stir constantly over low heat until
3½ oz. (100 g) pastry cream (see
thickened. Do not let the custard boil; the surface must only ripple
above)
gently. As the quantity of custard is small, it will cook very quickly.
Chocolate velvet mixture   Squeeze out the gelatin to remove excess water and place it in
4 oz. (110 g) dark chocolate, the bowl set over ice. Immediately strain the hot custard through
70% cacao, chopped a fine-mesh sieve over the gelatin, stirring until the gelatin
1½ oz. (40 g) cacao paste dissolves. Do not blend. Cool the custard quickly over the ice
4½ oz. (125 g) cocoa butter, and pour it into the 4¾-in. (12-cm) baking ring to form a layer
chopped
about ¾ in. (1.5 cm) deep. Any leftover crémeux can be poured
Gold velvet mixture
into a jar and eaten later on bread.
3½ oz. (100 g) white chocolate,   When the caramel crémeux begins to set, place the sponge
chopped on top, with the almond side facing down. Keep chilled.
⅓ oz. (10 g) milk chocolate,
chopped To prepare the pastry cream
3½ oz. (100 g) cocoa butter, Place the milk and butter in a saucepan and scrape in the vanilla
chopped
seeds. Bring to a boil.
1½ tsp (8 g) edible gold luster dust
  While the milk is heating, whisk the egg yolks and sugar
To serve together until pale and thick, then whisk in the cornstarch. Pour
Honey a little of the hot milk mixture into the egg yolks and sugar,
whisking nonstop. Pour it back into the saucepan and cook over
Equipment low heat, stirring constantly until thickened and smooth—it will
Electric hand beater cook very quickly. Pour onto a rimmed baking sheet lined with
4¾-in. (12-cm) baking ring
parchment paper and cool quickly.
5½-in. (14-cm) baking ring
Instant-read thermometer
2 velvet spray guns To prepare the Chantilly mousse
Soak the gelatin in a bowl of cold water until softened. Drain and
squeeze to remove excess water. Place in a bowl and microwave
on full power for 5 seconds, or until melted.
  Whip the cream in a mixing bowl until it holds soft peaks.
Bring the pastry cream to room temperature and, using a flexible
spatula, fold in the melted gelatin, then the whipped cream.

To prepare the chocolate and gold velvet mixtures

Place the ingredients for the velvet mixtures in two separate
bowls and melt over pans of simmering water (bain-maries).
Pass each one through a fine-mesh sieve and transfer to velvet
spray guns. Use at a temperature of 113°F (45°C).

To assemble
Fit a 2-in. (5-cm) wide band of food-grade acetate around the
inside of the 5½-in. (14-cm) baking ring. Unmold the sponge
with the caramel crémeux and place it in the center of the ring,
with the crémeux uppermost. Pour over the still-soft mousse.
Freeze until well-chilled and firm, then remove the acetate band
and baking ring. First, spray the gold velvet mixture all over the
entremets. Spray the chocolate velvet mixture around the sides,
then spray the top edges lightly to reflect the color of a baked
madeleine. Finish off with a few drops of honey.

20
MY VANILLA CUSTARD
A simple, time-efficient recipe that gives instant pleasure!

SERVES 4

PREPARATION: 20 MINUTES  ✴ COOKING: DEPENDS ON SAUCEPAN  ✴ RESTING: OVERNIGHT  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

Ingredients To infuse the milk

5¼ cups (1.3 L) whole milk, divided A day ahead, pour half the milk into a saucepan. Cut the vanilla
1 Bourbon vanilla bean bean into small pieces and add to the milk. Bring to a boil, then
9 large egg yolks (¾ cup/160 g)
blend with an immersion blender.
1 cup (5½ oz./160 g) light brown
sugar
  Remove from the heat and add the rest of the milk. Cover and
2 whole large eggs (½ cup/120 g) let cool. When cool, leave to infuse in the refrigerator overnight.

Equipment To prepare the custard

Immersion blender The next day, strain the milk through a fine-mesh sieve.
Fine-mesh sieve   Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, and whole eggs together until
Electric hand beater
pale, creamy, and thick.
Instant-read thermometer
  Pour the infused milk into a saucepan and add the whisked
eggs and sugar. Stir constantly over low heat using a spatula
until the temperature reaches 180°F (82°C) on an instant-read
thermometer. Make sure the custard does not boil; it should just
simmer very gently.
  As soon as the custard reaches the required temperature,
immediately strain it through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl.
Press plastic wrap over the surface and cool it quickly, either by
setting the bowl on a bed of ice or in the refrigerator, to prevent
the custard from continuing to cook.

To serve
Serve the custard well chilled, with a slice of marble cake (see
p. 24)—my very own Proustian madeleine!

22
MARBLE CAKE
You’ll be surprised by just how light and airy this cake is. You can coat it with chocolate glaze,
as I’ve done here, but it is even better straight from the oven, without being soaked in syrup or
glazed. However, if you wish to store the cake, you will need to glaze it. This dessert is definitely
one of my favorites, so enjoy!

MAKES 1 CAKE

PREPARATION: 1 HOUR  ✴ COOKING: 1½ HOURS  ✴ RESTING: SEVERAL HOURS  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

INGREDIENTS To prepare the vanilla and chocolate cake batters

Grease a large loaf pan with butter. In the bowl of a stand mixer
Vanilla cake batter fitted with the whisk, beat the butter, sugar, vanilla powder,
1 stick (4 oz./120 g) unsalted
and salt until light and creamy. Add the eggs and whisk in.
butter + extra for the pan
1½ cups (10½ oz./300 g) sugar
Scrape down the sides of the bowl using a dough scraper, sift
Scant 1 tsp (2 g) vanilla powder in the flour and baking powder, and incorporate on low speed.
Generous ¾ tsp (about 4 pinches) Immediately pour in the cream and whisk again until the batter is
fleur de sel sea salt smooth.
2 large eggs (½ cup/120 g)   Spoon slightly less than half the batter into a separate bowl.
Scant 1¾ cups (7 oz./210 g) all- Stir in the cocoa powder to make the chocolate batter.
purpose flour
  Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas Mark 2).
1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder
Generous ¾ cup (200 ml)
  Transfer the vanilla and chocolate cake batters to two separate
whipping cream pastry bags, each fitted with large plain tips. Pipe the batters
alternately into the loaf pan.
Chocolate cake batter   Spoon the softened butter into a paper piping cone, snip off
½ cup (2 oz./60 g) unsweetened the tip, and pipe a line of butter lengthwise down the center of
cocoa powder, sifted the batter.
1 tsp softened butter to pipe on
  Bake for about 1½ hours, watching it carefully: the cake is ready
the batters
when the tip of a knife pushed into the center comes out clean.
Rum syrup
1 cup (250 ml) water To prepare the syrup
1 tbsp (15 ml) dark rum Heat the water, rum, and sugar in a saucepan, stirring until the
2⅓ cups (1 lb./450 g) superfine sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil and set aside.
sugar   Remove the cake from the oven and immediately turn it out
onto a wire rack. Brush the syrup over it. Cover the cake with
Chocolate glaze
1 lb. 10 oz. (750 g) pâte à glaçer
plastic wrap while it is still hot. Let cool, then refrigerate for
brune (brown glazing paste), several hours until ready to glaze.
chopped
9 oz. (250 g) dark chocolate, To glaze the cake
70% cacao, chopped  Melt the glaze ingredients together in a bowl over a pan of
½ cup (125 g) grape-seed oil simmering water (bain-marie), until the temperature reaches
113°F (45°C) on an instant-read thermometer. Blend with an
Equipment
Large loaf pan
immersion blender until smooth, strain through a fine-mesh
Stand mixer or electric hand sieve, and pour over the chilled cake.
beater
2 pastry bags fitted with plain tips
Instant-read or candy
thermometer
Immersion blender

24
SUGARED STRAWBERRIES
WITH CREAM
This is the recipe that left Éric awestruck.

SERVES 8

PREPARATION: 1½ HOURS  ✴ RESTING: 1 HOUR  ✴ COOKING: 35 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE

INGREDIENTS To prepare the strawberry juice

Place the strawberries and sugar in a heatproof bowl and cover
Strawberry juice with plastic wrap. Place over a pan of simmering water (bain-
2 lb. (1 kg) strawberries for making
marie) for 1 hour. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and reserve
jams
¼ cup (1¾ oz./50 g) superfine sugar
the juice. Set aside the strawberries for the strawberry filling.

Strawberry filling To prepare the strawberry filling

2 sheets (5 g) gelatin Soak the gelatin in a bowl of cold water until softened. Drain and
5½ oz. (150 g) strawberry jam squeeze to remove excess water. Place in a bowl and microwave
3½ oz. (100 g) strawberries on full power for 5 seconds, or until melted. Place the strawberry
(reserved from preparing the
jam in a large bowl. Dice 3½ oz. (100 g) of the strawberries
juice), diced
48–56 large strawberries,
reserved from making the juice and fold them into the jam,
depending on size along with the melted gelatin. Hull and hollow out each large
strawberry. Trim a thin slice from the side of each one to sit them
Basil-flavored langue de chats at a slight angle on the serving plate. Fill with the strawberry
batter filling and place in the silicone mold half-sphere cavities so they
¼ oz. (5 g) fresh basil leaves remain upright until the gelatin sets (about 1 hour).
6 tbsp (3 oz./85 g) butter,
softened
¾ cup (3½ oz./100 g)
To prepare the basil-flavored langue de chats batter
confectioners’ sugar, sifted Preheat the oven to 95°F (35°C/gas on the lowest setting).
Scant ½ cup (3½ oz./105 g) egg Spread out the basil leaves on a silicone baking mat or lined
whites, at room temperature baking sheet and dry them out in the oven for about 25 minutes,
1 pinch salt or until they can be crumbled easily. Grind to a fine powder.
Generous ¾ cup (3½ oz./100 g)   Whisk the butter until smooth, then whisk in the confectioners’
all-purpose flour, sifted
sugar. Whisk in the egg whites and salt, followed by the sifted
Green food coloring
flour and powdered basil. Color the batter with a little green
Strawberry glaze food coloring. Transfer to a covered container until needed.
1⅓ cups (315 ml) strawberry juice   Preheat the oven to 340°F (170°C/Gas Mark 3) on fan setting.
(see above) Lay the stencil on a silicone baking mat and spread a little of
2 tbsp (30 ml) water the batter over it using a spatula. Repeat with the remaining
1 tbsp (12 g) superfine sugar batter. Bake for about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and
1½ tsp (6 g) pectin NH
immediately lay each one carefully in a half-sphere cavity in the
To assemble
silicone mold, or in a teaspoon, so that they cool in a curved
1 carton of whipping or heavy shape.
cream
Light brown sugar To prepare the strawberry glaze
Heat the strawberry juice with the water. Carefully mix the sugar
➞ and pectin together well. When the temperature of the juice
reaches 140°F (60°C), add the sugar and pectin and stir in until
➞

26
Equipment incorporated. Simmer for 1–2 minutes. Transfer to a covered
Electric hand beater container. When ready to use, reheat the glaze gently in the
Instant-read thermometer microwave—it must not boil. Use the glaze melted but cold.
Silicone mold with half-sphere
cavities measuring 1½ in. (4 cm)
in diameter
To assemble
Cardboard stencil in the shape of Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks. Sift the light brown
the hull of a strawberry sugar, keeping only the largest grains. Using toothpicks, prick the
Toothpicks strawberries all over (leave one in to transfer to the serving plate).
Coat in a thin, even layer of glaze. Arrange 6 or 7 in a ring on each
serving plate, with the tips pointing inward. Leave room in the
center to add a large spoonful of whipped cream. Remove the
toothpicks and carefully place a langue de chat hull on the top of
each strawberry. Sprinkle with the sugar and serve immediately.

27
MILK BRIOCHE CLOUD
WITH CARAMEL SAUCE
SERVES 4

PREPARATION: 1 HOUR  ✴ RESTING: OVERNIGHT  ✴ COOKING: 15 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

INGREDIENTS To prepare the brioche inserts

A day ahead, cut 4 × 1⅓-in. (3.5-cm) thick slices of brioche using
Brioche inserts a serrated knife. Using the cookie cutter, cut out 1⅓-in. (3.5-cm)
1 large mousseline brioche (with
cylinders from the center of each slice. Keep the trimmings for
as compact a crumb as possible)
breakfast or for breadcrumbs.
Milk for soaking
1 sheet gelatin To prepare the milk for soaking
Scant 1½ cups (350 ml) whole Soak the gelatin in a bowl of cold water until softened. Drain and
milk, divided squeeze to remove excess water. Place in a bowl and microwave
5 tsp (20 g) superfine sugar on full power for 5 seconds, or until melted.
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
  Place half of the milk, the sugar, and the vanilla bean and
⅓ cup (80 ml) whipping cream
scraped-out seeds in a saucepan and heat until the temperature
Blancmange reaches 122°F (50°C). Add the melted gelatin, then pour in the
1 sheet gelatin rest of the milk and the cream.
3 large egg whites (½ cup/90 g)   Pour the mixture into a dish large enough to accommodate
⅓ cup (2½ oz./70 g) superfine the brioche inserts in a single layer. Let them soak for a minimum
sugar of 2 hours, turning them over every 20 minutes.
  Once the brioche inserts are thoroughly soaked, place them
Caramel sauce
Scant ⅓ cup (70 ml) whipping
in a covered container and chill until ready to assemble the dish
cream the next day.
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
Scant ½ cup (3 oz./90 g) superfine To prepare the blancmange
sugar The next day, soak the gelatin in a bowl of cold water until
½ stick (1¾ oz./50 g) lightly salted softened.
butter, diced
  Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks, then gradually
To serve
whisk in the sugar, without letting the egg whites become too
Sliced almonds stiff. Drain the gelatin and squeeze to remove excess water.
Place in a bowl and microwave on full power for 5 seconds, or
Equipment until melted and hot. Add to the egg whites, then stop whisking.
1⅓-in. (3.5-cm) round cookie Set aside.
cutter
Instant-read or candy
To prepare the caramel sauce
thermometer
Immersion blender
Heat the cream to a simmer with the vanilla bean and scraped-
4 × 3-in. (8-cm) baking rings, out seeds.
1½ in. (4 cm) deep   In a separate saucepan, prepare a dry caramel by heating the
sugar in a heavy-based saucepan without adding water. Once
the sugar dissolves to form a syrup, boil it until it becomes a
light golden-brown caramel and the temperature reaches a
maximum of 340°F (170°C).
➞

30
  Take the pan off the heat and very carefully pour in the hot
cream. Add the butter and blend with an immersion blender
until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside.

To assemble
Preheat the oven to 525°F (280°C, or its highest setting). Place
the baking rings on a silicone baking mat or cookie sheet
lined with lightly oiled parchment paper. Spread a layer of
blancmange around the insides of the rings. Place a milk-soaked
brioche insert in the center, with its base touching the mat or
cookie sheet. Cover with more blancmange and smooth the
surface. Run a knife around the inside of the ring, then carefully
remove it. If desired, you can sprinkle sliced almonds over the
top of the blancmange.
  Place in the hot oven and immediately switch it off. Let cook
for 10 minutes in the turned-off oven. This is to cook, stiffen up,
and keep the blancmange airy, without coloring it.
  Remove from the oven and let cool. Keep chilled.

To serve
Serve the brioche clouds well chilled. Spoon the caramel sauce
over them at the table, in front of your guests, making sure it
runs invitingly down the sides. However, avoid adding too much
sauce to ensure they are not excessively sweet.

31
BUDDHA’S-HAND PAVLOVA
WITH CREAMY RICE PUDDING
AND CRISPY MERINGUE
This dessert is very light and airy yet extremely voluminous. The concept was to produce
maximum volume with the minimum of weight. Equally astonishing is the fruit used to make this
dessert, which looks straight out of a Japanese anime. Its subtle and delicate fragrance cannot fail
to seduce.

SERVES 4

PREPARATION: 3 HOURS  ✴ COOKING: 1½ HOURS  ✴ LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE

INGREDIENTS To prepare the meringue

Preheat the oven to 180°F (80°C/gas on lowest setting). Whisk
Meringue the egg whites until they form soft peaks, then gradually whisk
6 large egg whites (generous
in the superfine sugar until the peaks are firm. Gently fold in the
¾ cup/190 g)
1 scant cup (6 oz./170 g) superfine
confectioners’ sugar using a spatula until incorporated.
sugar   Transfer the meringue to the pastry bag fitted with a sultan
1⅓ cups (6 oz./170 g) tip and pipe 16–20 mounds onto a silicone baking mat or cookie
confectioners’ sugar, sifted sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for 1½ hours. Let cool on
a wire rack.
Buddha’s-hand ribbons
1 Buddha’s-hand
To prepare the Buddha’s-hand ribbons
2 cups (450 ml) water
¾ cup (5 oz./150 g) superfine
Clean the Buddha’s-hand fruit thoroughly using a toothbrush.
sugar Cut the “palm” of the fruit into very thin ribbons using a food
slicer or mandoline. Reserve the “fingers” for the sorbet.
Diced Buddha’s-hand “fingers”   Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a saucepan, stirring
“Fingers” from the Buddha’s-hand to dissolve the sugar. Continue to boil until the syrup reaches
used for the ribbons a temperature of 158°F (70°C). Maintain the syrup at this
Reserved hot syrup from the
temperature.
ribbons (see above)
  Blanch the ribbons in a saucepan of boiling water for 1 minute.
Buddha’s-hand sauce Drain, then plunge them immediately into the hot syrup. Cover
Generous ½ cup (130 ml) with plastic wrap and let cool to room temperature. Drain,
remaining syrup from poaching reserving the syrup for the “fingers.”
the ribbons and “fingers”
3 tbsp (50 ml) water To prepare the diced Buddha’s-hand “fingers”
¼ vanilla bean, split lengthwise
Dice the reserved Buddha’s-hand “fingers.” Reheat the reserved
and seeds scraped
4 tsp (20 ml) lemon juice
syrup used for the ribbons to 158°F (70°C). Blanch and drain
1½ tsp (5 g) potato starch the diced “fingers,” then immerse them immediately in the hot
syrup. Cover with plastic wrap and let cool to room temperature.
➞ Set aside 5¾ oz. (160 g) of the diced “fingers” for the sorbet.
Reserve the rest to assemble the dessert.

To prepare the Buddha’s-hand sauce

Heat a generous ½ cup (130 ml) of the syrup used to poach the
ribbons and “fingers” with the water, lemon juice, and vanilla
bean and seeds. Whisk in the potato starch until combined.
➞
34
Creamy rice pudding Cook for a few minutes until the sauce has slightly thickened.
Generous ¾ cup (6 oz./170 g) Watch over it closely as it cooks very quickly. Strain through a
short-grain rice fine-mesh sieve and set aside.
4 cups (1 L) whole milk
Generous ⅓ cup (2¾ oz./75 g)
superfine sugar
To prepare the creamy rice pudding
2 vanilla beans, split lengthwise Blanch the rice in a saucepan of boiling water for 8 minutes.
and seeds scraped Drain and rinse the rice thoroughly with cold water.
Generous ½ cup (150 ml) whipping   Place the milk, sugar, blanched rice, and vanilla bean and
cream scraped-out seeds in a saucepan. Cook over low heat for
50 minutes, stirring regularly, then turn the heat down to its
Buddha’s-hand sorbet
lowest setting and cook for an additional 20 minutes. Let cool
1 cup (260 ml) whole milk
1 cup (260 ml) water
completely.
Scant ½ cup (3 oz./80 g) superfine   Whip the cream in a mixing bowl until it holds soft peaks.
sugar Once the rice has cooled, fold in the whipped cream and spoon
5¾ oz. (160 g) diced Buddha’s- into the pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip.
hand “fingers” poached in syrup
(see above) To prepare the Buddha’s-hand sorbet
Make a syrup by heating the milk, water, and sugar until the
To serve
1 finger lime
sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and let
Lemon basil cress cool.
1 lemon   Blend the diced Buddha’s-hand with the cooled syrup in the
Thermomix or spice grinder (or blender). Pour into the bowl of
Equipment an ice-cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s
Pastry bag fitted with a sultan tip instructions. If you do not have an ice-cream maker, transfer
(see Chef’s Notes)
the mixture to ice-cube bags and freeze; when frozen, place in
Food slicer or mandoline
Instant-read thermometer
the Thermomix (or blender) and blend briefly to obtain a sorbet.
Pastry bag fitted with a large plain Store in a covered container in the freezer until using.
tip
Thermomix or spice grinder To assemble
(or blender) Place 4 or 5 meringues in the center of each serving plate. Pipe
Ice-cream maker (see Chef’s creamy rice pudding into the hollow in the middle of each one
Notes)
and add the remaining diced Buddha’s-hand set aside earlier.
  Top each meringue with 3 small quenelles of Buddha’s-hand
sorbet and the Buddha’s-hand ribbons rolled into curls, allowing
12 curls per serving. Scrape out the beads of “caviar” from the
finger lime. Place a little on each pavlova, along with a few tiny
sprigs of lemon basil cress. Grate over a little lemon zest at the
table, in front of your guests, and pour a little of the sauce over
each serving.

Chef’s Notes
•  A sultan piping tip is a large tip with a fluted edge and hollow
center for piping fluted rings.
•  If you do not have an ice-cream maker, buy a good-quality
lemon sorbet.

35
Living over 6,000 miles away,
I set François a challenge:
to leave his 5-star hotel
kitchen to drive around
Los Angeles in a food truck.
The aim: to taste all the classic
dishes that the City of Angels
has to offer and reinterpret
them for passersby in
Downtown LA to taste his take
on tacos, donuts, and cookies!
François accepted, bade au
revoir to his team, and was off.
Destination: Los Angeles!
CALIFORNIA
T he sights and sounds of the City of Angels are endlessly
fascinating. All we were missing now were the smells and
tastes, and I knew just the place to complete the Californian
experience. First stop was Teddy’s Red Tacos. Los Angeles’s
taco culture is almost as old as the city itself, and the taco
is to Los Angeles what cheesecake is to Philadelphia.

It all began in the 1880s, during the city’s Wild regulate or even restrict the number of food
West era, when horse-drawn tamale wagons trucks in LA, but their popularity among
from Mexico descended on the town en masse. residents has only grown over time.
As successive waves of immigrants arrived   Today, food trucks are a must-see attraction
throughout the twentieth century, these taco for any visitor to the City of Angels. Teddy’s
trucks took on an important role: they became Red Tacos is the perfect illustration of the
the melting pot that brought together Los diversity of Mexican-Californian fusion food.
Angeles’s many different cultures, and street Teddy’s secret recipe (which he did not want
food was born. Tacos were discovered by to share with us for this book!) is made from
Angelinos, who appreciated them for their beef that is slowly simmered in a rich tomato-
simplicity, their new and incredibly rich flavors, based ragout, known as birria, until the meat is
and their short preparation time, allowing so tender it almost melts. Unsurprisingly, birria
customers to order a hot meal and take it away means “a delicious savory dish, full of culture
with them. and tradition.” This method of preparing tacos
  Many of these migrants came to Los has its roots in the Mexican state of Jalisco,
Angeles—and still come today—in search where goat meat was originally used for the
of a better life. The food truck and its horse- ragout. Goats, brought by the conquistadors in
drawn predecessor have become symbols of the sixteenth century, were at first considered
the American dream for migrants, who, with a nuisance both for the crops and the soil. They
few means and thanks to word of mouth and reproduced too quickly and ate such a large
incredibly flavorful cuisine, were able to create part of the harvest that they indirectly caused a
prosperous businesses, bypassing the racist famine. During this famine, goats began to be
and culturally discriminatory laws in place at the used for their meat, despite the pronounced
time that prohibited non-whites from running flavor and smell. To overcome this problem,
restaurants from established premises. As a different herbs and spices were added. Teddy’s
result, the food truck became, and remains tacos—authentic beef birriero—are filled with
today, a path to freedom, where the only thing onion, cilantro, and a spicy sauce, combining
that seems important for success is how much the best of the traditional recipe with a
love is put into the food. marvelously fresh, original (and red!) twist. It is
  Since the nineteenth century, various the stuff that dreams are made of.
governments have attempted in vain to

44
Éric: “What did you think? You can’t find that in Paris, huh?”
Éric

François “No, no, no. You know, I’m not a fan of spicy food,
François:
so it didn’t make for a very easy start to this adventure, but
besides the spices, I must say that it really wasn’t bad at all!
And it really helped me to project in terms of the next phase of
this adventure. Seeing them work like that in the truck . . . in
such a cramped space—but also seeing the concept of his recipe—
gave me the idea of using the brioche dough on a plancha for my
dessert version of the taco.”

47
Milk Jar
Cookies
In our quest to discover what patisserie means to Americans,
the different stops we made on this leg of our adventure
were the cornerstone of our mission: enter cookies, donuts,
and ice cream.

Our first stop was Milk Jar Cookies in the popular with Americans, and when the cookies
district of Beverly Hills. American cookies are were later sent overseas to American troops
much larger and deeper than French cookies. stationed abroad, their popularity spread
However, even if our two versions differ, we worldwide. Today, chocolate chip cookies are
still eat them in the same way, by dunking without doubt the most famous cookie in the
them in milk—which is a must! The apparently world.
worldwide ritual triggers an immediate wave of   At Milk Jar Cookies, innovation is the name
nostalgia, as this comforting touch transports of the game. In addition to the birthday cookie
us directly back to our childhood. (a sugar cookie rolled in rainbow sprinkles),
  Although history tells us that cookies their other flavors include oatmeal chocolate
appeared in Persia during the seventh century, chip, chocolate peanut butter, chocolate pecan
it was the Dutch who brought them to America caramel, and white chocolate with raspberries.
toward the end of the 1620s. They only became Their method of baking most of their cookies
popular in their modern incarnation (a creamy differs slightly from that in France, as they
mixture of butter and sugar) during the preheat a conventional oven to 300°F (150°C/
eighteenth century. The most famous American Gas Mark 2) and then lower the temperature
cookie, the chocolate chip, was invented during to 275°F (140°C/Gas Mark 1) when the cookies
the Great Depression by Ruth Wakefield, who go into the oven. In France, cookies are usually
broke up pieces of chocolate and added them baked at a higher temperature. (The cookie
to her cookie dough. It rapidly became very recipe on p. 60 reflects the French method.)

57
At Milk Jar Cookies,
innovation is the name
of the game. In addition
to the birthday cookie
(a sugar cookie rolled
in rainbow sprinkles),
their other flavors include
oatmeal chocolate chip,
chocolate peanut butter,
chocolate pecan caramel,
and white chocolate with
raspberries.
CHOCOLATE PECAN AND
CARAMEL COOKIES
BY COURTNEY COWAN
MAKES 15–18 LARGE COOKIES (ABOUT 3 IN./8 CM IN DIAMETER)

PREPARATION: 25 MINUTES  ✴ COOKING: 12–14 MINUTES PER BATCH  ✴ STORAGE: UP TO 4 DAYS

IN AN AIRTIGHT CONTAINER OR 1 MONTH IN THE FREEZER (UNBAKED DOUGH)  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

INGREDIENTS To prepare the cookie dough

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4).
3½ cups (15½ oz./430 g)   Sift the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt into a
all-purpose flour
mixing bowl. Set aside.
⅓ cup (1⅓ oz./40 g) unsweetened
cocoa powder
  Combine the butter, shortening, sugars, eggs, and vanilla
1 tsp baking soda extract in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle beater.
1 tsp salt Beat on medium-low speed for about 30 seconds, until the
1¼ sticks + 1 tbsp (5½ oz./160 g) ingredients are combined but there are still small chunks of
unsalted butter, well chilled and butter remaining. Each time the ingredients are mixed, scrape
diced down the sides of the bowl with a spatula to be sure all the
⅔ cup (4½ oz./125 g) shortening
ingredients are incorporated—every bit matters!
(white vegetable fat), at room
temperature and diced
  Add half of the dry ingredients and mix on low speed until just
1 cup (6¾ oz./190 g) sugar incorporated and no flour is visible (about 30 seconds).
1 generous cup (7¾ oz./220 g)   Add half of the remaining dry ingredients and mix on low
light brown sugar speed until the flour is incorporated and there are no more
2 extra-large eggs (½ cup/130 g) chunks of butter (about 20 seconds).
1½ tsp vanilla extract   Add the remaining dry ingredients and mix until the dough
1½ cups (6½ oz./180 g) pecan
pulls away from the sides of the bowl and is no longer sticky to
pieces
30–36 Rolo caramel candies,
the touch (another 20 seconds). Be careful not to overmix, as
halved (4 halves per cookie, that can result in flat cookies. Mix in the pecan pieces.
approximately 72 halves)
To bake the cookies
Equipment Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper.
Stand mixer fitted with the paddle   Scoop up ⅓ cup (3 oz./80 g) of the dough at a time, place
beater
2 Rolo halves in the center of each one, and firmly roll into balls
measuring approximately 1½ in. (3 cm) in diameter. With a ball in
your hand, top with 2 more Rolo halves, gently pushing them in
to keep them in position while they bake. Place 6 balls of dough
on each cookie sheet, spacing them well apart.
  Place the sheets in the oven on the middle and lower racks and
bake for approximately 12–14 minutes, or until the caramel candies
are melted and hairline cracks start appearing around the sides of
the cookies. Turn each cookie sheet 180 degrees and swap their
positions on the racks halfway through the cooking time.
  Let the cookies cool on the sheets for 10 minutes, then use a
wide spatula to transfer them to a wire rack or sheet of parchment
paper on the worktop, to cool completely. Let the cookie sheets
cool before repeating with the remaining balls of cookie dough.

60
Photograph © Ashley Maxwell
American
Desserts
Desserts stateside have been strongly influenced by the
flavors of Northern Europe (mainly German and Dutch),
which immigrants from that region brought over with them.
T heir recipes spread throughout a large part of the eastern
United States.

This is one of the reasons why the typically style tarte Tatin), blueberry pie, mixed-berry
American, famously supersized cakes are pie, carrot cake, red velvet cake, and cereal pie,
found in this part of the country. I really wanted among others. Visually impressive, they remain
François to discover these giants of the pastry loyal to American tradition. American pies are
world, so we set ourselves up in our test kitchen covered with another layer of pastry, unlike
and prepared a customized tasting for him: open-faced French tarts, so the fruit is steamed
American apple pie (one with a puff pastry beneath it, becoming caramelized and even
crust, and another with shortcrust pastry, more delectable.
which retains more moisture than a French-

62
Éric “I can officially say that I lived my childhood dream today:
Éric:
I spent the entire day eating dessert!”

François “I can’t argue with you there! You definitely have a

François:
sweet tooth, and these cakes, well, the least I can say is that
they’re—what’s the word? Generous!”

Éric: “Oh, come on! The carrot cake was incredible!”

Éric

François: “Incredibly . . . sweet?”

François

Éric: “Seriously? I loved it!”

Éric

François “I get it, but Éric, all these cakes look very much
François:
alike. When you think about it a little, it really is just sponge
cake and cream cheese . . . that they add flavor to according to
the color!”

Éric “That’s true. Except perhaps for the carrot cake? The
Éric:
marvelous texture of the pecans, the finely grated carrots, and
those small explosions of cinnamon and raisins! That’s what I
call a dessert!” 

François “Yes, maybe the carrot cake, but it remains very

François:
simple! Don’t you see? Here, in the United States, cakes are all
made the same way: by alternating layers of sponge cake and
buttercream, which is then all covered in cream-cheese icing.
A very basic structure, which, historically, was easier, faster,
and less expensive to make, especially at the time of the first
frontier settlers. In France, our cakes are all different from
one another. A mille-feuille is different from a macaron. We are
talking about two cakes whose textures and recipes have nothing
in common, and they taste radically different. Our cakes result
from a long tradition of great pastry chefs who considered
pastry-making as an art form. We experiment a bit like chemists
do in a lab. We never stop creating.”

66
Donuts
We stopped off next to try another iconic American pastry:
the donut.. Unlike European versions, the classic American
donut is extremely sweet and usually made from deep-fried
dough filled with pastry cream around the outer edge,
with a hole in the middle.

The donut follows a historical path similar to simply balls of sweet dough deep-fried in fat,
that of the cookie. Donuts were originally a without the characteristic hole in the middle
Dutch specialty, known as oliekoek, imported that distinguishes them today. In the mid-
by Dutch settlers into New Amsterdam nineteenth century, the donut acquired
(modern-day New York) and American culture its modern shape and became a classic
in the seventeenth century. Originally, they were American pastry.

68
Chez Rose
Finally, we headed to The Rose restaurant in Venice, where
the chef showed us his own Buddha’s-hand creation. This is
a savory version, in which the Buddha’s-hand is preserved
in olive oil with a touch of sugar, set on a plate of asparagus
with dehydrated pesto and yuzu. And to follow, agnolotti to
die for! Extraordinary.
  Next, François tried his hand at making a dessert taco
based on asparagus, with hazelnut praline, filled with a
Meyer lemon yogurt sauce and topped with Parmesan and
yuzu ponzu sauce. Who would have thought that vegetables
could make such good desserts?

75
François “The return of the Buddha’s-hand! What an unexpected
François:
twist!”

Éric: “It was a marvelous meal, don’t you think?”

Éric

François “It was marvelous to see the same passion here as in

François:
our kitchens in Paris. It’s all about making your customers happy
and providing them with the best experience possible. It’s like
what Chef Jason said: ‘That’s what dining is. It’s communion. It’s
to commune with one another. In this day and age, where people
are constantly in front of their screens, it’s a time to share
and be together. It’s a universal language. Let’s look at each
other and share, enjoy, talk—let’s fight over that last piece of
pasta.’ʺ

Éric “We really did fight over that last piece of pasta, didn’t
Éric:
we?”

François “How could we not have, with that agnolotti? I promise

François:
you that I am going to make it at home if Jason is kind enough
to give me the recipe.”

76
SWEET CORN AGNOLOTTI
BY JASON NERONI AT THE ROSE VENICE
SERVES 4

PREPARATION: 30 MINUTES  ✴ RESTING: 30 MINUTES  ✴ COOKING: 2 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

INGREDIENTS To prepare the sweet corn purée

Blanch the corn cobs until they are tender. Drain and, using a
Sweet corn purée sharp knife, cut the kernels off the cobs. Using an immersion
4 corn cobs
blender, blend the kernels with the brown butter to make a very
2 sticks (8 oz./230 g) brown butter
Brown sugar, if needed
smooth purée. Add brown sugar and salt to taste. Let the purée
Salt cool, then transfer it to the pastry bag fitted with a plain tip.

Pasta dough To prepare the pasta dough and make the agnolotti
1 lb. 6 oz. (625 g) Caputo flour Place the flour in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough
(see Chef’s Notes) hook. Add the egg yolks, then gradually add the water, until the
1½ cups (300 g) egg yolks
ingredients are evenly combined. Knead for about 10 minutes.
Scant ½ cup (100 ml) water
Shape the dough into a ball, cover in plastic wrap, and let rest for
To serve 30 minutes.
1 tbsp butter   Once the dough has rested, roll it into a long, very thin sheet.
3 tbsp roasted corn kernels   Pipe the sweet corn purée in a line down one side of the
1 tsp lemon juice sheet, dampen the edge of the dough with water, and fold it
1 tbsp Cotija cheese (see Chef’s over to enclose the filling. Using a brass pasta wheel or ravioli
Notes)
rolling cutter, cut the pasta crosswise into short lengths to make
Sprigs of micro cilantro
Ground tajine spices
agnolotti.

Equipment To cook and serve the agnolotti

Immersion blender Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil. Add the agnolotti
Pastry bag fitted with a plain tip and boil for about 2 minutes, until they float. Drain the agnolotti,
Stand mixer fitted with the dough reserving a little of the cooking water.
hook
  Melt the butter with a splash of the reserved cooking water in
Brass pasta wheel or ravioli rolling
cutter
a large skillet. Add the roasted corn and lemon juice, then mix in
the agnolotti.
  Divide between 4 serving dishes and crumble over the Cotija
cheese. Garnish with sprigs of micro cilantro and a dusting of
ground tajine spices.

Chef’s Notes
•  Caputo 00 flour is a high-quality wheat flour from Naples. Very
finely ground, it is used for making both pasta and pizza doughs.
•  Cotija is a Mexican cheese made from cow’s milk. When
dried, it can be grated like Parmesan. In this recipe, however, the
fresher version is used and is crumbled over the agnolotti. If it is
unavailable, feta can be substituted.

78
© Pascal Shirley
Heavenly
Ice Cream
After this fabulous meal, we needed something refreshing
to aid our digestion, and what better than an ice cream
from Salt & Straw? This artisan ice cream store combines
incredible flavors, such as salted ice cream with hand-burned
caramel, almond brittle, honey lavender, and black olive and
goat cheese.

82
Éric: “What’s your verdict on the olive and goat cheese ice
Éric
cream?”

François: “Hard to say.” 

François

Éric: “You don’t like the combination of sweet and savory?”

Éric

François “Of course I do! I just made asparagus and praline

François:
tacos at The Rose! I make fennel desserts; I mix black truffle
with chocolate. It’s not that at all. I just don’t think that the
flavor of the ice cream works. At the same time, you tricked me.
I should have ordered what you got: it was amazing! Salted ice
cream with ribbons of butterscotch! Next time, I won’t take your
advice.”

87
Reinventing
After all these tastings, it was finally time to think about our
own reinterpretations and start hunting down ingredients.
In Paris, François was used to having local producers come
to the hotel with superior quality produce, but here it was
a whole new challenge to find the best ingredients.
So we began with a hands-on adventure, to say the least—at
a dairy farm, where we tried milking cows. There’s definitely
a skill to it.
  We continued on to The Valley Hive: an enormous honey
farm, where the hives were fascinating and buzzing with
activity. We discovered an interesting bit of trivia: one side
of a hive is much warmer than the other because the bees
are sitting on their babies and must keep the air at room
temperature. After a brief tour of the beekeeping facilities,
we finally moved on to the sweeter part: tasting the honey.
The unique flavors included sage honey, buck wheat
honey, and avocado honey. Each variety was a delicious
combination of sweetness and bitterness.

90
François “I have to say, Éric. I’m feeling inspired.
François:
This honey—I’m really taken by its flavors. In France,
I’ve visited many beekeepers, and I must say that I see
the same passion here.”

Éric: “We have time to experiment. Let’s go see what

Éric
our truck can do!”

99
Before heading to the next
producer, it was time to
experiment a little: a waffle
dough for the honey tacos,
similar to an ice-cream
sandwich that we saw at
Milk Jar Cookies.
Speaking of cookies,
it was time to think about how
we would reinterpret them.
Pistachio cookies, perhaps.
We headed to a pistachio
orchard to taste the produce
and see how large-scale
American growers manage
the production process
and harvests.
The pistachio orchard was still
dormant, but the trees were
about to blossom. Pistachios
rely on the wind for pollination,
with the pollen coming from
the male trees. When the nuts
are harvested in September,
the shells are already open;
every variety has its own
shape and, in some cases,
taste. François also discovered
many Buddha’s-hands
growing on a Californian tree!
farmers’ market
When we arrived at the farmers’ market recommended to
us by Michelin-starred chef Niki Nakayama, we realized
we’d made the mistake of arriving too late. As a result,
there was very little produce left. Still, our spirits lifted
when we found a small stall with kumquats the size
of lemons, as well as the best avocados in the world.
Instantly, they inspired François, who pictured a dessert
made from kumquats and avocado, in the shape of a
giant kumquat filled with avocado ice cream that you
could bite into. It sounded heavenly!
  On the way back to the food truck , there was a little
drama when the bag containing the avocados and
kumquats was lost. Of course, there is nothing more
frustrating than envisaging a creation but being denied
the means to carry it out and give others pleasure. But,
hey, the show must go on. It seemed a minor setback for
everyone else, but for François—who had a particular
idea in mind, a dream he wanted to turn into a reality—it
was a severe blow. He was terribly disappointed.

114
Éric: “How did you react to all of this, François?”
Éric

François “I didn’t feel great, as you know. When I find a

François:
good ingredient, it’s as though there is an explosion in
my mind. I see all these different ideas for new desserts
that I’m eager to get out there and test. So it is hard when
things like this happen.”

Éric: “We will surely find other ingredients to inspire you!”

Éric

François “It won’t be the same. It’s like when something

François:
inspires an artist to paint, and then, all of a sudden, the
colors disappear from their palette.”

116
The Big Day Was
Approaching
It was time to double up our efforts to finish all the recipes we
needed for the Grand Central Market Food Truck Festival.

The time had come for last-minute testing the pastries and desserts that will be made by
and for putting the finishing touches to the them. He was on his own in the food truck, with
dishes. The team was hard at work in the food limited space and materials, unlike his usual
truck to ensure this trip was a resounding working conditions. It required some creative
success. In Paris, François works with a team thinking!
of thirty people, and his main role is to create

120
François “I can finally spend the day experimenting and
François:
perfecting these desserts. There is a big culinary fusion
movement in France, and I see a big cultural melting pot here in
LA, topped with an incredible energy! A constant positive energy
that really makes you feel good!”

Éric: “How did this work in such a tight space?”

Éric

François “Well, we needed to adapt! Seeing Teddy work and

François:
delegate tasks at the start of this adventure helped me optimize
this tiny space.”

Éric: “Did you like the challenge?”

Éric

François “I loved it. Cooking in a five-star hotel and cooking in

François:
a food truck are the same thing. What counts is your desire to
make something good and, more importantly, to make people happy.
But what I enjoyed the most was having the possibility to read
the customers’ reactions in real time, to share their emotions.”

Éric: “I think it’s about time that we taste all these creations.
Éric
What do you think?”

François “I won’t let you taste anything until you tell me where
François:
you are taking me next time!”

123
The Last Stop
At last, we reached our final destination—The Grand
Central Market Food Truck Festival. The Grand Central
Market has a long and rich history that forms part
of the fabric of the city of LA. It has been operating
continuously since it opened in 1917, when Broadway was
the main shopping district in Downtown Los Angeles.
People from all over the city came to shop in the open-air
food hall, and the vendors reflected the neighborhood’s
demographic makeup, running the gamut from
mouthwatering Jewish delis to tasty Mexican taquerias.
You can find anything you want here!
  Setting up the food truck and preparing everything
that was needed were cause for a few final moments
of stress, but it was pleasurable all the same. And then
we were ready! The hatch of the food truck was opened
and over 300 customers came by to test François’s new
creations, his reinterpretations of classic American
desserts. For François, this was no ordinary experience,
but the culmination of everything he had been working
toward since his arrival in the US.

124
Éric: “What did you think of our adventure? What will you
Éric
take back to France with you?”

François “For one, sincere gratitude that—despite thousands

François:
of miles of separation—there are people everywhere who
continue to push the limits of the culinary world and
who share my passion for pleasing customers. And beyond
that, what an experience! Despite some challenges and some
desserts that I, personally, didn’t particularly like, I felt
lucky to be able to experience something new. I can’t wait
to incorporate these discoveries in my future creations,
and—believe it or not—put that much talked-about kumquat
dessert on the menu sometime soon.”

138
François
Perret’s
Recipe
journal
WHISKY BABAS WITH
CHANTILLY CREAM
After testing this recipe with different alcohols while we were filming the series, I concluded
that I liked whisky best (but I already knew that). I also discovered, thanks to Jade, that gin works
well, too. As for Tom, he had a soft spot for tequila. Let your own personal tastes guide you
when choosing the right liquor for your babas. For my part, Lagavulin whisky seems perfect and,
I thought, why not add a couple of grinds of black pepper and a little grated chocolate as well?
If your preference is for gin, try adding lemon zest and maybe some grated root ginger.
The choice is yours!

MAKES 8–10

PREPARATION: 2 HOURS  ✴ RESTING: OVERNIGHT  ✴ COOKING: 35 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

INGREDIENTS To prepare the baba dough

Sift the flour into the bowl of the stand mixer and stir in the fleur
Baba dough (make 1 day ahead) de sel and sugar. Dilute the yeast in the water and add to the
2¼ cups (7 oz./200 g)
bowl, along with the eggs. Mix on low speed until a dough is
all-purpose flour
¾ tsp (4 g) fleur de sel sea salt
obtained.
4 tsp (20 g) superfine sugar   Increase the speed to medium and continue kneading until
⅓ oz. (10 g) fresh yeast the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. Gradually
2 tsp water add the butter and knead until the dough comes away from the
2 large eggs (½ cup/120 g) sides of the bowl again.
¼ cup (2 oz./60 g) unsalted butter,   Lightly grease the individual baba molds or loaf pan with
diced + extra for the molds
butter. Divide the dough between the molds (about 1 oz./30 g in
Soaking syrup (make 1 day ahead)
each) or place in the loaf pan. Let rise for 15–20 minutes.
4 cups (1 L) water   Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas Mark 2). Bake the babas
2 cups (10½ oz./300 g) light brown for 22 minutes, until golden.
sugar   Reduce the oven temperature to 250°F (130°C/Gas Mark ½).
Generous ¾ cup (200 ml) whisky Unmold the babas and let them dry out in the oven for 13 minutes.
Seeds from 1 vanilla bean This will help them better absorb the syrup.
Chantilly cream
1¼ cups (300 ml) whipping cream
To prepare the soaking syrup
(33% fat) Heat the water and sugar in a saucepan until the sugar dissolves,
6 tbsp (1¾ oz./50 g) confectioners’ then bring to a boil. Let cool until the temperature of the syrup
sugar, sifted reaches 120°F (50°C). Add the whisky and vanilla bean seeds.
  Place the babas in a shallow dish, then pour the syrup over
Glaze (optional) them. Leave overnight in the refrigerator, as the babas must be
Apple jelly
thoroughly soaked with the syrup. Check the babas the next
To serve
day and spoon over any syrup that has not been absorbed, if
Generous ¾ cup (200 ml) thick necessary.
crème fraiche
To prepare the Chantilly cream
➞  Whip the cream in a well-chilled bowl until it begins to thicken.
Add the confectioners’ sugar and continue whipping until the
cream holds firm peaks. Keep chilled.
➞

142
Equipment To glaze (optional)
Stand mixer fitted with the dough Warm the apple jelly and brush it over the babas.
hook
8–10 individual baba (mini savarin)
To assemble
molds or a loaf pan measuring
10 in. (26 cm) in length
Drain the baba or babas from the dish. If you have chosen to use
Instant-read thermometer traditional baba molds, fill the center of each baba with thick
Electric hand beater crème fraîche. Transfer the Chantilly cream to the pastry bag (or
Pastry bag fitted with a ½-in. whipping siphon) and decorate with a swirl of cream. For the loaf
(1-cm) fluted tip (or whipping pan baba, simply spoon over the crème fraîche and serve, with
siphon) the Chantilly cream on the side.

143
CARROT-SHAPED
CARROT CAKE
The key to this recipe is to use small spring carrots with fronds. In the series, I hollowed out the
carrots first, but there’s really no need to do this, as it’s quite fiddly and time-consuming!

SERVES 4–6

PREPARATION: 1½ HOURS  ✴ COOKING: 30 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE

INGREDIENTS To prepare the carrot cake

Preheat the oven to 340°F (170°C/Gas Mark 3).
Carrot cake   Combine the sugars, flour, baking powder, salt, cocoa powder,
Scant ½ cup (3 oz./80 g) superfine
and spices in a mixing bowl. Whisk in the egg, then the oil. When
sugar
2 tbsp (30 g) brown sugar
the batter is smooth, stir in the grated carrots.
Generous ¾ cup (3½ oz./100 g)   Transfer the batter to the cake pan. Bake for 10–15 minutes, or
all-purpose flour, sifted until the tip of a knife pushed into the center comes out clean.
1½ tsp baking powder   Turn the cake out onto a wire rack to cool. Once it has cooled,
Scant 1 tsp salt chop it into very small pieces to resemble soil. This will be used
Heaping 1 tsp unsweetened cocoa as a “bed” for the carrot.
powder, sifted
Scant 1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 large egg (3½ tbsp/55 g)
To prepare the carrot decoration
⅓ cup (90 ml) grape-seed oil Peel the carrots and cut off their fronds. Use a skewer to make
5½ oz. (150 g) grated carrots small holes about ½ in. (1 cm) deep in each carrot where the
fronds were. Sprigs of cilantro will be “planted” into these holes
Carrot decoration later.
1 bunch small spring carrots   Steam the carrots for about 10 minutes, checking them
with fronds
toward the end of the cooking time, as they should remain crisp.
1 bunch cilantro
Set aside.
Carrot glaze
1⅓ cups (300 ml) carrot juice To prepare the carrot glaze
2 tbsp (30 ml) water Heat the carrot juice and water together in a saucepan on
1½ tsp (6 g) pectin NH (available medium heat, until the temperature reaches 140°F (60°C). Mix
from specialized food stores the sugar and pectin together, then add to the hot juice and
or on internet)
water. Increase the heat, bring to a boil, and boil for 2 minutes.
1 tbsp (12 g) superfine sugar
Let cool, cover, and chill until needed.
Cheese cream   Before using the glaze, reheat it gently in the microwave until
Scant ½ cup (3½ oz./100 g) cream melted, watching it carefully as it must not boil. The glaze needs
cheese to be used melted but cold.
3 tbsp (50 ml) whipping cream   Transfer the cooled, steamed carrots to a wire rack set over a
sheet of parchment paper to catch any drips. Spoon a generous
Equipment
amount of glaze over each carrot. Repeat with more glaze, if
10-in. (26-cm) cake pan lined with
parchment paper
necessary, until they are all well coated. Place the glazed carrots
Electric hand beater on a lightly oiled plate and chill until needed.

To prepare the cheese cream

Place the cream cheese in a mixing bowl. Beat in the whipping
cream a little at a time to soften it.
➞

146
 To assemble
Spoon a little of the cheese cream onto flat individual serving
plates. Top with 2 tablespoons of the carrot cake “soil” and
carefully shape it into small mounds. Push cilantro sprigs into
the small hole made in the top of each carrot to resemble carrot
fronds. Divide the carrots between the serving plates, placing
them on top of the mounds of “soil.”
  For a more spectacular presentation, you can also assemble
the carrots on a large serving platter. Spoon the cheese cream
over the platter, top with the carrot cake “soil,” and arrange the
glazed carrots on top.

148
LIKE A COOKIE
The quantities of ingredients for making these cookies are intentionally large. They can be used
to make this recipe or simply eaten as cookies. The unbaked dough will freeze well for up to
3 months, which means you can bake a batch of cookies in less time than it would take you to go
out and buy some!

SERVES 8

PREPARATION: 1 HOUR  ✴ COOKING: 20 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE

INGREDIENTS To prepare the cookie dough

Beat the sugar, butter, and peanut butter together in a mixing
Cookie dough bowl until light and creamy. Beat in the egg. Sift together
1 cup (5 oz./140 g) brown sugar the flour and baking powder, and mix in. Stir in the chopped
9 oz. (250 g) butter chocolate. Shape the dough into 2 cylinders measuring 12 in.
¼ cup (1¾ oz./50 g) peanut butter
(30 cm) in length. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze until
1 large egg (3½ tbsp/55 g)
2 cups (9 oz./250 g) all-purpose flour
needed.
1 tbsp (11 g) baking powder   When ready to bake the cookies, cut the dough into ¾-in. (1.5-cm)
6½ oz. (180 g) milk chocolate, thick slices. Preheat the oven to 340°F (170°C/Gas Mark 3). Lay
chopped the cookies on a silicone baking mat or cookie sheet lined with
6½ oz. (180 g) dark chocolate, parchment paper and bake for 8 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.
70% cacao, chopped
To prepare the pistachio praline
Pistachio praline
3 tbsp (45 ml) water
Place the water and sugar in a large saucepan and cook over
4½ oz. (130 g) superfine sugar low heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, then continue
7 oz. (200 g) shelled pistachios, boiling until the temperature of the syrup reaches 244°F (118°C).
skins left on Remove from the heat and stir in the pistachios until they are
Generous ⅓ tsp (2 g) fleur de sel coated, and the mixture has a sandy appearance. Return the
sea salt saucepan to medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until
A drizzle of pistachio oil (if required)
the sugar caramelizes.
Caramelized pistachios
  Turn the pistachios out onto a silicone baking mat or lined
7 oz. (200 g) shelled pistachios, cookie sheet and sprinkle with the fleur de sel. Let cool
skins left on completely. Once cooled, break into pieces and coarsely grind
1 tbsp (15 ml) water in a food processor. The praline should have the consistency of
½ cup (2¾ oz./75 g) brown sugar pancake batter but retain a granular texture. If necessary, add a
Generous ¾ tsp (4 g) fleur de sel little roasted pistachio oil to adjust the consistency.
sea salt
1 tbsp roasted pistachio oil
To prepare the caramelized pistachios
➞ Preheat the oven to 275°F (140°C/Gas Mark 1).
  Spread the pistachios over a silicone baking mat or lined
cookie sheet and toast them in the oven for 10 minutes. Watch
them carefully to ensure they do not burn.
  Place the water and sugar in a large saucepan and cook over
low heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, then continue
boiling until the temperature of the syrup reaches 250°F (121°C).
Remove from the heat and stir in the hot pistachios until they are
coated and the mixture has a sandy appearance. Return the
➞

149
Fromage blanc topping saucepan to medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly,
3 sheets (6 g) gelatin until the sugar caramelizes. Add the fleur de sel and roasted
5 tbsp (75 ml) whole milk pistachio oil.
5 tbsp (75 ml) whipping cream
  Immediately turn the pistachios out onto a silicone baking
14 oz. (400 g) fromage blanc
(if unavailable, use quark or
mat or cookie sheet lined with parchment paper and separate
Greek yogurt) them using two forks while they are still hot, so they do not stick
1 tbsp (15 g) superfine sugar together.

Chocolate velvet mixture (see To prepare the fromage blanc topping

Chef’s Notes) Soak the gelatin in a bowl of cold water until softened. Drain and
10½ oz. (300 g) dark chocolate,
squeeze to remove excess water. Place in a bowl and microwave
70% cacao, chopped
10½ oz. (300 g) cocoa butter,
on full power for 5 seconds, or until melted. Add the milk, cream,
chopped fromage blanc, and sugar to the gelatin and beat together until
combined. Transfer the mixture to a whipping siphon fit with a
To decorate gas cartridge, and refrigerate until needed.
Roughly chopped chocolate
To prepare the chocolate velvet mixture
Equipment
Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter together in a bowl over a
Electric hand beater
Instant-read or candy
pan of simmering water (bain-marie). Pass through a fine-mesh
thermometer sieve and transfer to the velvet spray gun. Use at a temperature
Food processor of 113°F (45°C).
Whipping siphon fit with a gas
cartridge To assemble
Velvet spray gun Crumble a cookie in the center of each dessert plate. Spoon
Pastry bag fitted with a large
the pistachio praline into the pastry bag fitted with a large plain
plain tip
4¾-in. (12-cm) round cake ring
tip and pipe a spiral on top of the crumbs. Center the cake ring
over the praline. Siphon the fromage blanc topping over the
crumbled cookies and praline to cover them completely in an
even layer. Carefully remove the ring.
  Before spraying with the chocolate velvet mixture, cover the
serving plate using a piece of stiff cardboard with a circle the
same size as the cake ring cut from the center, to avoid spraying
the plate. Spray the warm chocolate velvet mixture directly onto
the fromage blanc topping to cover it completely. Hold the spray
gun at least 12 in. (30 cm) away and, preferably, do this outdoors
(such as a balcony, terrace, backyard or, if you have no outside
space, in the bathtub).
  Carefully lift the cardboard protection off the plate. Sprinkle
over a few caramelized pistachios and a little chopped
chocolate to decorate.

Chef’s Notes
•  Instead of making the chocolate velvet mixture, you can
purchase an aerosol can of chocolate spray paint from patisserie
supply stores or on the Internet.

150
CHOCOLATE AND RASPBERRY
DONUTS
I find the idea of a flawless trompe-l’oeil donut, made of a sponge cake filled with fruit, glazed with
sugar, and cooked without any deep-frying, an extremely interesting one. It makes the perfect
accompaniment to a glass of milk or a hot drink. It also contains very little fat: only grape-seed oil,
not even butter (yes, for once, I’m not using any butter!).

MAKES 12

PREPARATION: 30 MINUTES  ✴  COOKING: 12 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

INGREDIENTS To prepare the chocolate sponge

In a large mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks and confectioners’
Chocolate sponge sugar together until pale and slightly increased in volume. In a
5 large egg yolks (scant 1½ cups/
separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until they hold soft peaks.
100 g)
½ cup (2 oz./60 g) confectioners’
Whisk in half the superfine sugar, followed by the other half,
sugar, sifted continuing to whisk until the egg whites form firm, but not grainy
4 large egg whites (generous peaks. Using a spatula, gently fold the whisked egg whites into
½ cup/120 g) the egg yolk mixture. Sift in the flour and cocoa powder, then
5 tbsp (2 oz./60 g) superfine sugar carefully fold in until combined.
Scant 1 cup (3½ oz./100 g)   Preheat the oven to 340°F (170°C/Gas Mark 3).
all-purpose flour
  Transfer the cake batter to the pastry bag fitted with a large
3½ tbsp (1 oz./25 g) unsweetened
cocoa powder
plain tip. Grease the silicone savarin molds and pipe the batter
into them. Bake for 8–9 minutes, or until a toothpick pushed into
Chocolate glaze one of the sponges comes out clean.
Generous 2 cups (10 oz./280 g)   Let cool in the molds. Using a serrated knife, trim their tops
confectioners’ sugar level with the tops of the molds. Place in the freezer until firm,
3 tbsp (¾ oz./20 g) unsweetened then unmold. Neaten the outer edges of the sponges using the
cocoa powder
3-in. (8-cm) cookie cutter, and the insides of the rings using the
5 tbsp (75 ml) water
2½ tbsp (40 ml) grape-seed oil
1⅓-in. (3.5-cm) cutter.

To assemble To prepare the chocolate glaze

½ pint (6 oz./170 g) fresh Sift the confectioners’ sugar and cocoa powder into a mixing
raspberries, washed and lightly bowl. Gradually whisk in the water and grape-seed oil until
crushed with a fork smooth. Set aside at room temperature.
Grated or finely ground dark
chocolate
To assemble
Equipment Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7).
Electric hand beater   Sandwich the sponges together in pairs with the crushed
Pastry bag fitted with a large raspberries in the center. Using two forks, dip the donuts in the
plain tip chocolate glaze to coat them completely. Once dipped, place
24 × 3-in. (8-cm) silicone savarin them on a wire rack set over a cookie sheet to allow excess glaze
molds (or a mold with 24 × 3-in./
to drip off.
8-cm cavities)
3-in. (8-cm) and 1⅓-in. (3.5-cm)
  Place in the oven for 30 seconds to set the glaze. Remove
round cookie cutters from the oven and sprinkle ground or grated chocolate on top.
Bake for an additional 1½ minutes.
  Serve warm or at room temperature.

152
FENNEL SALAD
This is a recipe that was tested in the food truck. At the time, I was not entirely convinced it would
work. I didn’t think dates or marmalade should be added—or even olives, if my memory serves
me right. They can be replaced by a few orange segments instead, resulting in a fresher (and,
for me, more enjoyable!) salad. A little fleur de sel sea salt and a few turns of the pepper mill will
enhance the flavor.

SERVES 4

PREPARATION: 30 MINUTES  ✴ COOKING: 20 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

INGREDIENTS To prepare the vinaigrette

Whisk all the ingredients together until evenly combined. Set
Vinaigrette aside.
Scant ½ cup (100 ml) olive oil
3 tbsp (40 ml) calamansi vinegar
(or another lemon vinegar)
To prepare the oat milk rice pudding
3 tbsp (40 ml) Pacific (alcohol-free Mix the cornstarch and sugar together. Blanch the rice in a
pastis) saucepan of boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain and rinse under
5 tbsp (40 g) confectioners’ sugar running cold water.
  While the rice is blanching, heat the oat milk in a large
Oat milk rice pudding saucepan until it comes to a simmer. Add the rice and simmer
1 tbsp (10 g) cornstarch
gently over low heat until the rice is tender (about 15 minutes).
1 oz. (30 g) light brown sugar
Scant ¾ cup (5½ oz./150 g) risotto
Stir in the mixture of cornstarch and sugar, then bring briefly to a
rice boil. The rice should be very creamy.
4 cups (1 L) oat milk
To prepare the orange marmalade
Orange marmalade (optional) Prick the oranges all over with a fork. Place them in a saucepan
1 lb. (500 g) oranges with sufficient cold water to cover them and bring to a boil. Drain
1⅓ cups (9 oz./250 g) superfine
and repeat 8 times, using fresh water each time.
sugar
1 tsp (4 g) fruit pectin (optional,
  Cut the oranges into quarters, remove the seeds, and purée in
but it gives a better set) a food processor or blender. Transfer the purée to a saucepan,
add the sugar and pectin (if using), and cook for 2 minutes. Let
Salad cool.
2 fennel bulbs
A little lemon juice To assemble
1 lb. (500 g) lemon sorbet
Slice the fennel bulbs very thinly with a mandoline and toss in
10 pitted dates, thinly sliced
(optional)
the lemon juice to stop the slices from oxidizing.
2 large oranges, peeled and   Place a teaspoon of orange marmalade (no more, as it is very
segmented sweet) in each serving dish. Add the rice pudding, a scoop of
20 Taggiasca olives (optional) lemon sorbet, and a few date slices (if using).
1 bunch fresh dill   Divide the fennel slices between the serving dishes, along
Borage flowers with the orange segments. Drizzle over the vinaigrette and
Fleur de sel sea salt and freshly
season with fleur de sel and freshly ground pepper.
ground pepper
  Served garnished with a few olives (if using), dill sprigs, and
Equipment borage flowers.
Food processor or blender
Mandoline

154
S’MORES POPSICLES
This is the most American of my desserts in form, but equally the most French due to its different
components. I have a feeling that this dessert is going to stay with me for a while yet. What’s more,
it has been a big hit back in Paris. It’s simple, yet effective—everything I like.

MAKES ABOUT 40

PREPARATION: 1 HOUR  ✴ COOKING: 30 MINUTES  ✴ FREEZING: 1 HOUR 20 MINUTES MINIMUM  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

INGREDIENTS To prepare the crumble topping

Place the softened butter in a mixing bowl. Add the sugar and
Crumble topping flour. Work together with your fingers to make a crumble. Press
¾ stick (2¾ oz. /80 g) butter,
evenly over a board to form a ¹⁄16-in. (2-mm) thick layer. Cut out
softened
Generous ½ cup (2¾ oz./80 g)
small circles using the cookie cutter. Set aside.
brown sugar
Generous ¾ cup (3½ oz./100 g) To prepare the choux pastry
all-purpose flour Heat the milk, water, butter, sugar, and salt in a large saucepan
until the butter melts and the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil,
Choux pastry take the pan off the heat, and tip in all the flour. Beat vigorously
Generous ½ cup (140 ml) whole
until the batter is smooth and comes away cleanly from the
milk
Generous ½ cup (140 ml) water
sides of the pan. Transfer the batter to the bowl of the stand
1 stick (4 oz./110 g) butter, diced mixer. Gradually beat in the eggs on medium speed. The batter
1 tsp sugar needs to be smooth, glossy, and firm enough to hold its shape,
1 tsp salt so not all of the egg may be needed.
1⅓ cups (6 oz./170 g) all-purpose   Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C/Gas Mark 4). Spoon the
flour, sifted batter into the pastry bag fitted with a ⅓-in (8-mm) tip and
4 large eggs (scant 1 cup/200 g),
pipe out small mounds measuring 1½ in. (4 cm) in diameter
beaten
onto silicone baking mats or lined cookie sheets. Leave space
Frozen mousse between them as they will rise during baking. Carefully place
2 large egg whites (¼ cup/60 g) a circle of crumble on top of each choux puff. Bake for about
½ cup (3½ oz./100 g) superfine 30 minutes, until golden brown and crisp.
sugar
Generous ½ cup (150 ml) To prepare the frozen mousse
whipping cream
Whisk the egg whites and sugar in a bowl set over a saucepan of
Scant ¼ cup (50 ml) heavy cream
5 oz. (150 g) dark chocolate,
barely simmering water (bain-marie) until the mixture is hot but
70% cacao, melted and cooled has not exceeded 113°F (45°C). Remove from the saucepan and
2¾ oz. (75 g) dark chocolate, continue whisking until the egg whites are firm, glossy, and cool.
70% cacao, finely grated   Whip the creams until they hold soft peaks. Gently fold the
melted, cooled chocolate into the meringue, followed by the
Chocolate coating whipped creams. Lastly, fold in the grated chocolate. Spoon into
10½ oz. (300 g) dark chocolate,
the pastry bag fitted with a ¼-in. (5-mm) tip.
70% cacao, chopped
7 oz. (200 g) cocoa butter,
  Pierce a hole in the base of each choux puff and fill with the
chopped mousse. Place in the freezer for at least 1 hour, until very firm.

Meringue To prepare the chocolate coating

8 large egg whites (1 cup/240 g) Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter together in a bowl set over
1¼ cups (8½ oz./240 g) superfine a saucepan of barely simmering water (bain-marie) until the
sugar
temperature reaches 122°F (50°C), stirring until smooth.
➞
➞

156
Equipment To prepare the meringue
1¼-in. (3-cm) cookie cutter Whisk the egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Gradually whisk
Stand mixer fitted with the whisk in the sugar, until the peaks are very stiff and glossy.
Pastry bag fitted with a ⅓-in
(8-mm) plain tip
Instant-read thermometer
To assemble
Electric hand beater Remove the choux puffs from the freezer. Push a popsicle stick
Pastry bag fitted with a ¼-in. into the base of each puff, then dip in the chocolate coating.
(5-mm) plain tip Push the stick into a Styrofoam and let the coating set. Return
40 wooden popsicle sticks to the freezer for about 20 minutes. Shortly before serving,
Styrofoam block dip the puffs in the meringue and place back in the Styrofoam
Kitchen torch
block. To serve, use a kitchen torch to scorch the meringue until
lightly golden, in front of your guests. The delicious scent of the
toasted meringue will make everyone’s mouth water!

157
ASPARAGUS TACOS
I love using vegetables in desserts! They offer such an array of possibilities. I sometimes wonder
who decreed that fruits should be kept for desserts and vegetables only served earlier in the meal.
The tomato is the best example of why this is not actually true: it is a fruit, yet no one is shocked
to see it in an appetizer or main dish. A beautifully prepared vegetable deserves to be served for
dessert just as much as for the main course. However, a perfect balance must be achieved, as the
aim is to surprise diners with the taste.

SERVES 4

PREPARATION: 3 HOURS  ✴ COOKING: 20 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: ADVANCED

INGREDIENTS To prepare the cracker dough

In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, work the flour and
Cracker dough olive oil together until a sandy texture is obtained. Crumble the
2 cups (9 oz./250 g) all-purpose
yeast into the warm water to dissolve and add it to the bowl. Add
flour
2½ tbsp (35 ml) olive oil
the salt. Beat on medium speed for 20 minutes. Press plastic wrap
1 oz. (30 g) fresh yeast over the dough and let rise at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Generous ⅓ cup (100 ml)   Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/Gas Mark 7).
warm water   Knead the dough again briefly. Pass it through a dough
2 tsp (10 g) fleur de sel sea salt sheeter, dusting the dough lightly with flour as necessary. Begin
on the thickest setting and adjust to a thinner one each time
Candied lemons
you roll, until the dough is wafer thin (0.8 mm setting). Using a
2 Meyer lemons
1⅔ cups (400 ml) water, divided
sharp knife, cut the dough into 4- × 1½-in. (10- × 4-cm) rectangles.
1 cup (7 oz./200 g) superfine Arrange the rectangles on a silicone baking mat or lined cookie
sugar, divided sheet and place in the oven. Immediately lower the oven
temperature to 340°F (170°C/Gas Mark 3) and bake for 6 minutes.
Poached asparagus Turn the rectangles over and bake for an additional 4–5 minutes,
8 large green asparagus spears until they are golden.
2 cups (500 ml) water
½ cup (3½ oz./100 g) sugar
Scant ⅛ tsp salt
To prepare the candied lemons
Cut the lemons into 4 or 6, depending on their size. Cut most
Lemon vinaigrette of the flesh away from the rind to leave just a thin layer of flesh
4 tbsp olive oil attached. Blanch the lemon rinds 4 times in boiling water, using
1 tbsp lemon vinegar fresh water each time.
1 tbsp confectioners’ sugar   Heat half the water and half the sugar in a saucepan until the
sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil and immerse the rinds in the
Fromage blanc mousse
4½ oz. (125 g) fromage blanc
syrup so they are covered, making sure the temperature of the
(if unavailable, use quark or syrup does not exceed 158°F (70°C). When the rinds are tender,
Greek yogurt) drain them and place in a shallow dish. Prepare a second syrup
2½ tsp (10 g) superfine sugar with the rest of the water and sugar and bring to a boil. Pour it
3½ tbsp (50 ml) heavy cream over the lemon rinds and cover the dish with plastic wrap.
Scant ⅓ cup (70 ml) whipping
cream
To prepare the poached asparagus
➞
Cut off the tips of the asparagus stalks to a length of about 1½ in.
(4 cm) and set them aside. Using the truffle shaver or mandoline,
shave the asparagus stalks into very thin ribbons and place in a
saucepan. In a separate saucepan, make a syrup with the water,
➞

160
Hazelnut praline sugar, and salt. Bring the syrup to a boil, then pour over the
4 tsp (20 ml) water asparagus ribbons. Poach them for 1–2 minutes. Drain, reserving
⅓ cup (2⅓ oz./65 g) superfine the syrup for the asparagus tips. Set aside to cool gradually.
sugar
  Repeat this process twice with the asparagus tips: poach for
3½ oz. (100 g) hazelnuts
Scant ¼ tsp fleur de sel sea salt
about 1 minute, drain, reserving the syrup, then let cool. Bring
A drizzle of hazelnut oil the syrup back to a boil, pour it over the tips, and let cool again.
(if required) The asparagus tips should be just cooked—firm and tender at
the same time.
Toasted hazelnuts
1¾ oz. (50 g) hazelnuts To prepare the lemon vinaigrette
Whisk together the olive oil, vinegar and sugar. Set aside.
To serve
Lemon sorbet
Parmesan shavings To prepare the fromage blanc mousse
Plain yogurt Whisk together the fromage blanc, sugar, and heavy cream until
Finely grated lemon zest smooth. In a separate bowl, whip the whipping cream until it
holds soft peaks. Using a spatula, gently fold the cream into the
Equipment fromage blanc mixture. Transfer to a disposable pastry bag.
Stand mixer fitted with
the dough hook
Dough sheeter
To prepare the hazelnut praline
Instant-read thermometer Place the water and sugar in a large saucepan and cook over
Truffle shaver or mandoline low heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, then continue
Disposable pastry bag boiling until the temperature of the syrup reaches 244°F (118°C).
Food processor Remove from the heat and stir in the hazelnuts until they are
coated, and the mixture has a sandy appearance. Return the
saucepan to medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly,
until the sugar caramelizes to a reddish-brown color. Turn the
hazelnuts out onto a silicone baking mat or lined cookie sheet
and sprinkle with the fleur de sel. Let cool completely. Once
cooled, break into pieces and coarsely grind in a food processor.
The praline should have the consistency of pancake batter but
retain a granular texture. If necessary, add a little hazelnut oil to
adjust the consistency.

To prepare the toasted hazelnuts

Preheat the oven to 275°F (140°C/Gas mark 1). Spread the
hazelnuts over a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper and
toast for 30 minutes, checking their color regularly to ensure
they do not burn. Let cool, then separate into halves.

To serve
Using a serrated knife, cut a hole lengthwise in the top of each
cracker (do this carefully as they are fragile). Snip off the tip of
the pastry bag and pipe the fromage blanc mousse into the hole
in each taco. Add 2 small scoops of lemon sorbet. Arrange
2 asparagus tips, halved lengthwise, attractively on top and
several asparagus ribbons (at least 8 per serving). Garnish each
taco with 4 pieces of candied lemon, a few toasted hazelnut
halves, and 3 Parmesan shavings. Drizzle over the hazelnut
praline and lemon vinaigrette, and add a little yogurt for a
gourmet touch. Finally, grate a little lemon zest over the dessert.

162
CORN TACOS
This recipe was perfect for cooking in the food truck, directly on the grill plates. I could have
added so many other things—go for whatever fillings take your fancy!

SERVES 10

PREPARATION: 1½ HOURS  ✴ RESTING: OVERNIGHT + 2–2½ HOURS

COOKING: 40 MINUTES–1½ HOURS  ✴ LEVEL: ADVANCED

INGREDIENTS To prepare the brioche

In the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the dough hook,
Brioche (make 1 day ahead) crumble the yeast into the milk to dissolve it. Add the flour, salt,
½ oz. (12 g) fresh yeast
sugar, and 3 of the eggs. Knead on low speed for 10 minutes.
4 tsp (20 ml) milk
3¼ cups (14 oz./400 g) bread flour
Add the remaining egg and continue kneading on low speed
1 tbsp (15 g) fleur de sel sea salt until the dough pulls away cleanly from the sides of the bowl.
4 tbsp (50 g) superfine sugar Gradually add the butter and continue kneading on low speed
4 extra-large eggs (1 cup/250 g) until the dough is smooth and elastic.
2½ sticks (10 oz./280 g) unsalted   Transfer the dough to another bowl, cover with plastic wrap,
butter, diced and softened and let rest in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Push the dough down
1 beaten egg, for glazing
and fold it over to prevent it from rising further. Cover tightly in
(optional)
plastic wrap and let rest again in the refrigerator for 1 hour. You
Candied piquillo peppers now have two options:
(make 1 day ahead) Option 1: Make 2 large brioches in the loaf pans. Roll the dough
1¾ cups (9 oz./250 g) superfine into 12 × 3-oz. (80-g) balls and arrange them close together in
sugar, divided staggered rows in the pans, with the seam of each ball facing
½ cup (125 ml) water downward against the base of the pan. Press down lightly on
⅓ tsp (2 g) Espelette pepper
the top of each ball of dough to flatten it slightly. Let rise at room
1 jar piquillo peppers
temperature.
Poached corn   Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C/Gas Mark 2). Brush the top
3 corn cobs of the dough with beaten egg to glaze, then bake for 45 minutes.
2 cups (500 ml) whole milk   The next day, cut the brioche into very thin slices, then cut out
10 disks using the cookie cutter.
Puréed corn Option 2: Refrigerate the dough overnight. The next day, divide
2½ cups (12¾ oz./360 g) poached
the dough into sections and work one section at a time, keeping
corn (see above), drained
4 tbsp (60 ml) poaching liquid
the remaining dough chilled. Roll each one briefly several times,
(see above) placing it back in the refrigerator each time to ensure that it
remains well chilled while it is being worked, until it is 1/16 in.
Creamed corn (2 mm) thick. Cut out 10 disks using the cookie cutter and place
3 oz. (80 g) puréed corn (see them between two lightly oiled parchment paper sheets. Let
above) rest at room temperature for 25 minutes.
1½ oz. (40 g) mascarpone
2 pinches fine salt
Freshly ground pepper
To prepare the candied piquillo peppers
Make a syrup by heating half of the sugar with ½ cup (125 ml)
Caramel Sauce water. Add the Espelette pepper, then bring to a boil. Remove
Scant ⅔ cup (4½ oz./125 g) from the heat, cover, and let infuse for 5 minutes. Strain through
superfine sugar a fine-mesh sieve over the piquillo peppers. Set aside.
5 tbsp (75 ml) hot water   The next day, drain the syrup into a saucepan and add the
remaining sugar. Bring to a boil, then pour over the piquillo
➞
peppers. Set aside.
➞
164
To garnish and serve To prepare the poached corn
1 corn cob Use a sharp knife to cut the corn kernels off the cob. Heat the
A little vegetable oil milk in a saucepan until it comes to a simmer, then add the corn.
4 small spring onions
Cook over low heat until the corn is tender.
Arugula or frisée lettuce
leaves
Caramel popcorn To prepare the puréed corn
Fleur de sel sea salt and freshly Place the poached corn and the poaching liquid in the
ground pepper Thermomix or spice grinder (or blender). Blend until smooth.
Strain to obtain a thick purée.
Equipment
Stand mixer fitted with the dough
To prepare the creamed corn
hook
2 loaf pans measuring 9½ × 3 in.
Place the puréed corn in a mixing bowl and gradually whisk in
(24 × 8 cm), if using option 1 the mascarpone until smooth. Season with salt and 2 turns of
6¼-in. (16-cm) cookie cutter the pepper mill. Transfer the mixture to the pastry bag.
Thermomix or spice grinder (or
blender) To prepare the caramel sauce
Pastry bag fitted with a small plain Make a dry caramel by heating the sugar over low heat in a heavy-
round tip
based saucepan, without adding water. Once the sugar dissolves
Plancha grill plate (optional)
to form a syrup, boil it until it becomes a golden-brown caramel
and the temperature reaches a maximum of 340°F (170°C).
  Take the pan off the heat and very carefully deglaze by
pouring the hot water over the caramel and swirling the pan.
Keep warm.

To prepare the garnish

Use a sharp knife to cut large strips of corn lengthwise off the cob,
ensuring that the strips are just thick enough for the kernels to
remain joined together. Add a little oil to a skillet and sear the corn
strips until lightly browned. Season with fleur de sel and pepper.
  Cut the spring onions into ¼-in. (5-mm) slices and steam them
for about 10 minutes. They should be slightly translucent but
still hold their shape. Transfer to a heatproof container and pour
over the hot caramel. Cover and set aside.

To serve
Add a little oil to a skillet and, with the stove set to two-thirds
of its maximum heat, or ideally on a plancha grill plate, toast or
cook the brioche disks until nicely browned underneath. Turn
them over to brown the other side.
  Once the brioche disks have been toasted or cooked, place
the fillings over one half of each round so it can be folded in
half once assembled. First add the candied peppers and pipe
over the creamed corn. Add the pan-seared corn, the caramel-
coated spring onions, 1 or 2 arugula or frisée lettuce leaves, and
scatter over some caramel popcorn. Season with a little fleur de
sel and freshly ground pepper. Fold in half and enjoy!

166
PEAR TACOS WITH
AVOCADO HONEY
This dessert is extremely refreshing thanks to the pears and the superb, but little known, avocado
honey, with its bold flavor similar to molasses. Throw in crunchy almonds and crisp langue de chat
waffles, and you’ve got yourself a dessert that is both crispy and melt-in-the-mouth—just how I like
them! And I find that eating with your fingers—picking up the food and putting it directly into your
mouth—is even more pleasurable than using a knife and fork. Long live finger food!

SERVES 8

PREPARATION: 1½ HOURS  ✴ RESTING: OVERNIGHT  ✴ COOKING: 12 MINUTES  ✴ LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE

INGREDIENTS To prepare the fromage blanc mousse

Soak the gelatin in a bowl of cold water until softened. Drain and
Fromage blanc mousse (make squeeze to remove excess water. Place in a bowl and microwave
1 day ahead)
on full power for 5 seconds, or until melted. Whisk together the
1 sheet (2 g) gelatin
Generous ¾ cup (7 oz./200 g)
fromage blanc and sugar until combined, then add the melted
fromage blanc (if unavailable, gelatin.
use quark or Greek yogurt)   In a separate bowl, whip the crème fraiche on low speed
5 tsp (20 g) superfine sugar until it thickens a little, taking care not to over whip as it will
Generous ¾ cup (200 ml) crème separate easily; it should remain soft and smooth. Gently fold
fraiche the two mixtures together using a flexible spatula. Transfer to a
disposable pastry bag and keep chilled.
Langue de chat waffle batter
5½ tbsp (80 g) unsalted butter
¾ cup (3½ oz./100 g) To prepare the langue de chat waffle batter
confectioners’ sugar Beat the butter in a mixing bowl to soften it. Add the
Generous ¾ cup (3½ oz./100 g) confectioners’ sugar and beat until smooth and creamy. Sift
all-purpose flour in the flour and salt and stir to combine, then whisk in the egg
½ tsp salt whites.
Scant ½ cup (3½ oz./100 g) egg
  Preheat the oven to 340°F (170°C/Gas Mark 3). Place the
whites
honeycomb-patterned silicone mat on a cookie sheet. Using an
Caramelized almonds offset spatula, spread the batter in an even layer over the silicone
1 cup (7 oz./200 g) almonds mat. Bake for about 10 minutes. Release the batter edges from
2 tbsp water the silicone mat as soon as they begin to color. Return to the
½ cup (2½ oz./75 g) light brown oven for a few minutes, then turn over onto the hot cookie sheet
sugar and remove the silicone mat.
1 tsp fleur de sel sea salt
  Using the cookie cutter, cut out 16 circles (you will need 2 for
A drizzle of roasted almond oil
each taco). Return the waffles to the oven in small batches and
To assemble bake until they are golden brown. Remove from the oven and
4 large, perfectly ripe Williams or immediately place the waffles in the bottom of the 6⅓-in. (16-cm)
Bartlett pears, preferably red bowl, pressing down lightly so they cool in a curved shape.
Avocado honey for drizzling Once cooled, carefully remove them from the bowl and store in
an airtight container until needed.
➞

To prepare the caramelized almonds

Preheat the oven to 275°F (140°C/Gas Mark 1). Spread the
almonds over a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper and
➞

168
Equipment toast them in the oven for 10 minutes, watching them carefully
Electric hand beater so they do not color too much.
Disposable pastry bag   Place the water and sugar in a large saucepan and cook over
Silicone baking mat imprinted
low heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, then continue
with a honeycomb pattern
4¾-in. (12-cm) cookie cutter
boiling until the temperature of the syrup reaches 250°F (121°C).
6⅓-in. (16-cm) bowl Remove from the heat and stir in the hot almonds until they are
Instant-read or candy coated, and the mixture has a sandy appearance. Return the
thermometer saucepan to medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly,
until the sugar caramelizes. Add the fleur de sel and roasted
almond oil.
  Immediately turn the almonds out onto a silicone baking mat
or lined cookie sheet. Using two forks, separate them while they
are still hot, so they do not stick together.

To assemble
Cut two large round slices, about ⅔ in. (1.5 cm) thick, from each
pear, without peeling the fruit. Use the rest of the pears to make
a compote (or eat them while you are cooking!). You can also cut
the pears into neat cubes measuring at least ½ in. (1.2 cm).
  Arrange 8 waffles on a serving platter. Snip off the tip of the
pastry bag and pipe a little fromage blanc mousse into the
center of each waffle. Place a pear slice or cubes on top.
Roughly chop the caramelized almonds, then sprinkle the
equivalent of about 5 almonds over each taco. Cover with more
mousse and place a second waffle on top.
  Drizzle the honey over the tacos in front of your guests—an
extremely enticing act that cannot fail to whet the appetite. After
all, this dish is all about indulgence!

THE KUMQUAT
This is how I dreamed of preparing this fruit—but we’ll make it happen one day, right Éric?

SERVES 4

PREPARATION: 2 HOURS  ✴ RESTING: OVERNIGHT  ✴ COOKING: 1 HOUR  ✴ LEVEL: EASY

INGREDIENTS To blanch the kumquats

Insert a toothpick into each kumquat, pushing it all the way
Blanched kumquats (make 1 day through. Blanch the kumquats 3 times in boiling water, draining
ahead)
and using fresh water each time (this helps remove some of the
16 very large kumquats (the size of
small kiwi fruit)
bitterness from the kumquat flesh). Remove the toothpicks.
➞
➞

170
Poaching and soaking syrups To prepare the mandarin orange poaching syrup
(make 1 day ahead): Heat the water, vanilla bean, mandarin orange juice, and sugar in
a saucepan until the sugar dissolves. Bring the syrup almost to
Mandarin orange poaching syrup
a simmer, add the kumquats, and poach for 25 minutes at 194°F
4 cups (1 L) water
1 Madagascar bourbon vanilla
(90°C). Drain, reserving the syrup to make the clementine sauce.
bean   Slice off the base of each kumquat and reserve. Using a
1¼ cups (300 ml) mandarin orange teaspoon, scoop out the pulp. Reserve the pulp and place the
juice hollowed-out shells in a bowl.
1½ cups (10½ oz./300 g) superfine
sugar To prepare the brown sugar soaking syrup
Heat the water and sugar in a saucepan until the sugar dissolves.
Brown sugar soaking syrup
1¼ cups (300 ml) water
Bring to a boil and pour over the kumquat shells in the bowl.
2 cups (10½ oz./300 g) brown Cover and let rest overnight.
sugar
To prepare the kumquat compote
Kumquat compote The next day, remove the seeds from the kumquat pulp and
Reserved kumquat pulp and bases finely chop the reserved bases. Weigh out ¼ of the weight of
(see above)
the pulp and bases in brown sugar, place in a saucepan with the
Brown sugar (¼ of the weight of
the kumquats)
pulp and finely chopped bases, and mix together. Bring to a boil,
then let boil for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Cool, cover,
Clementine sauce and refrigerate until needed.
5 tbsp (2 oz./60 g) superfine sugar
½ cup (125 ml) mandarin orange To prepare the clementine sauce
poaching syrup (see above) Make a dry caramel by heating the sugar over low heat in a
Juice of 1 lemon
heavy-based saucepan, without adding water. Once the sugar
Finely grated zest of 1 clementine
1½ tsp (5 g) cornstarch + 1 tsp
dissolves to form a syrup, boil it until it becomes a golden-brown
mandarin orange poaching caramel and the temperature reaches a maximum of 340°F
syrup (see above) (170°C).
  Take the pan off the heat and very carefully deglaze with
To garnish ½ cup (125 ml) of the reserved mandarin orange poaching syrup,
2 ripe Hass avocados the lemon juice, and the clementine zest. Mix the cornstarch
(3½ oz./100 g each)
with 1 tsp syrup until smooth, then whisk into the sauce. Stir
3 tbsp (1 oz./30 g) sesame seeds,
toasted or seasoned with wasabi
over medium heat until the sauce comes to a boil. Remove
Generous ¾ cup (200 ml) from the heat, press plastic wrap over the surface, and let cool.
whipping cream Refrigerate until needed.

Equipment
To prepare the garnish
Toothpicks
Halve the avocadoes, remove the pits, and cut the flesh into
Instant-read or candy
thermometer ⅓-in. (1-cm) cubes. Fold the diced avocado and sesame seeds
Electric beater into the kumquat compote until evenly combined.
  Lightly whip the cream until it just holds its shape.

To assemble
Place the poached kumquat shells upright and fill each one with
a little whipped cream, then the kumquat compote and avocado
mixture. Place them upside down on serving plates, drizzle over
the clementine sauce, and enjoy!

171
 François Perret and Éric Nebot wish to thank:

Ryma Bouzid and all the staff at Flammarion

Chloé Benitah
Alexander Wolf for his invaluable assistance
Stéphane Reynaud

The teams at the Ritz Paris:

The Fayed family, Natalie Bader, Marc Raffray, Mélanie Hubert,
Silvia Vigneux, Adeline Robinault, Clément Tilly, Julien Loubere, Stéphane Ollivier,
Joris Theysset, the whole team of pâtissiers who work tirelessly, day in, day out,
to turn François’s wildest ideas into reality, and all the collaborators at this prestigious
establishment

Their partners, Aurelie Martin and Eleonore Nebot,

and children, Cleo, Tom, Eliezer, and Émile

Their parents and grandparents: Mémé Marie, Pépé Maxime, Mamie Bibine,
Papi Césaire, Mamie Michel, and Papou Robert,
who inspired Éric to want to recount stories

Camille Chambault and the entire film crew of the TV series

The Chef in a Truck, as well as the fantastic directors of photography, Lubomir Bakchev
and Théo Reynal, and film editors, Alex Westphal and Alexandre Donot

The Wild Bunch team

Julien Benhamou, Marc-Antoine Dolfi, Anne-Benedicte Quilici, Gregory Strouk,

Richard Pommerat, Patrick Long, David Nataf, Matthieu Goffard, David Gitlis,
Philippe Simon, Alice Cointe, Élodie Ichou, and everyone at Hill Valley

Jason Neroni and the staff at The Rose Venice, Courtney Cowan
and the team at Milk Jar Cookies, Teddy Vazquez and his tacos, and Thomas Zachariou
and Jade Verdeuil—François’s two commis on the show

Pierre Hermé, Pierre Gagnaire, Dominique Ansel, Michel Troisgros, Niki Nakayama,
Gerardo Madrazo, French bakery The Place to Be in Santa Monica,
and its adorable owners, Sandra and Matthieu Guertin

And last but not least, you foodies, who bring to life the passion we wished to share
through this TV series and book, without whom our jobs as pastry chef
and storyteller would have decidedly less flavor.
“François Perret is a magician of taste. [His] madeleine . . . is
a masterpiece.” — Pierre Hermé
What happens when François Perret — the world-renowned
pastry chef at the Ritz Paris — leaves behind his state-of-the-art
kitchen to compete in a Los Angeles food truck competition?
Trading in his chef’s toque for a baseball cap, chef Perret
roamed central California in his food truck, sampling fresh
produce and culinary specialties with local growers and chefs.
His encounters inspired him to reinterpret American classic
recipes including s’mores, tacos, donuts, and cookies. His
experience, seemingly an inversion of the Ratatouille story,
culminates into the perfect fusion of French pastry technique
and the sunny flavors of California.
Chef François Perret first shared his adventures in the Netflix
series The Chef in a Truck, and this volume — part travel journal,
part recipe book — recounts his unique culinary journey. It shows
readers once again that food is truly a shared international
language that builds bridges across cultures.
Photmontage d’après des images : © Eky Studio / Shutterstock ; © Bayanova Svetlana

François Perret is the head pastry chef at the Michelin-starred

Ritz Paris. He was named “World’s Best Restaurant Pastry Chef”
by Les Grandes Tables du Monde in 2019.
Éric Nebot is an avid food lover, film producer and director,
and the creator of the series The Chef in a Truck.
Création Studio Flammarion
Photos: © Bernhard Winkelmann

Flammarion
21-X