SUST Journal of Engineering and Computer Sciences (JECS), Vol. 16, No.

1, 2015

Performance of Dyeing and Printing of Polyester / Viscose Yarns Blends

for Clothing use
Hashim. A. M. Salim1, and Elfadil M. Elkarsany1
1
Textile Engineering Department, Sudan University of Science and Technology (SUST), Sudan
karsany@yahoo.com
Received:01.03.2014
Accepted:11.05.2014

ABSTRACT – This study highlights the effects of the dyeing and printing processes on the tensile
strength of blended suiting fabrics (65% polyester : 35% viscose) as compared to grey blended
fabrics. The obtained results showed negative effects of dying and printing applications on the
strength of the produced fabrics. Also, there were positive effects of dying and printing applications
on the elasticity of produced fabrics. The strength of the printed fabric along the warp direction was
found to be greater than that of the dyed. As well the strength of the dyed fabric along the weft
direction was found to be greater than that of the printed. It was found that the elongation of the
printed fabric along the warp direction was greater than that of the dyed.

Keywords: Tensile strength, elongation, blended yarn, grey fabric, warp direction, weft direction

‫ هذه الدراسة سلطت الضوء علي اثر عمليات الطباعة والصباغة علي متانة قماش منتج من خيط مخلوط‬- ‫المستخلص‬
‫ أثبتت النتائج إن‬.‫ فسكوز) علي التوالي مقارنة بمتانة القماش األسمر المنتج من هذا الخيط‬%56 : ‫ بولستر‬%56) ‫بنسبة‬
‫ هنالك تأثيرات ايجابية‬.‫عمليات الصباغة والطباعة لهما تأثيرات سلبية علي متانة القماش مقارنه بمتانة القماش االسمر‬
‫ متانة القماش المطبوع في اتجاه خيوط اللحمة اقل من متانة القماش‬.‫لعمليات الطباعة والصباغة علي مطاطية القماش‬
‫المصبوغ هذا باالضافة الي ان امتطاطية القماش المطبوع في اتجاه خيوط السداة أكبر من امتطاطية القماش المصبوغ‬
.‫لالتجاه ذاته‬

INTRODUCTION given to the dyestuff [2]. Polyester shrinks about

Dyeing is distinguished from printing as that it 7% in boiling water and even more at higher
only allows one shade to be produced all over temperatures and to avoid this, heat setting is
the yarn or fabric unless two different fibers are desirable before dyeing . Dry-heat setting is
present. Dyeing is employed to give solid carried out at 200o to 230oC for periods of 30 to
shades, whilst printing used to produce patterns 60 seconds. This will stabilize materials which
that may contain up to fourteen different colors. may be ironed domestically.
The simplest form that dyeing can take place is MODELING OF INDUCTION MOTOR
that the textile material is immersed into the Four air jet looms were selected from the
dyeing liquor. The dye is attracted to the production line installed in Al-Hudhud textile
material and the dye liquor gradually loses its factory (Khartoum North) to produce the fabric
colors whilst the fabric becomes more deeply sample. The looms specifications are given in
dyed [1]. Table 1. The looms were adjusted in order to
The prime function of a thickening agent in produce fabrics having the same characteristics.
textile printing is to enable the dyestuff or
Table .1: Loom specifications
pigment to be transferred easily to the fabric at
Loom type Air jet
the printing stage. Following the printing stages Brand name Nissan
the thickening agent must contain the dye within Model number LA40A
the printed area during drying. Furthermore, the Place of origin Japan
thickening agent must be completely removed Reed width 170 cm
from the fabric during the washing-off treatment Speed 550 picks /min
Year 1994

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 SUST Journal of Engineering and Computer Sciences (JECS), Vol. 16, No. 1, 2015

Grey fabrics were woven on the selected looms. at 130ºc for duration of 30 minutes. Since the
Samples from the produced grey fabric were fabric was in a rope form, the fabric was passed
taken as reference sample. The mechanical through the stenter machine for shrinkage
properties of the grey fabric were firstly removal and preparation for the subsequent
determined [3]. The rest of the grey fabric was processes [2].
then divided into two batches (batch A for the b) Printing Processes:
dyeing treatments and batch B for the printing Pigments were used for printing the fabric. The
treatments. Due to the differences in the paste was composed of poly acetate (ammonia
chemical structure of the molecules forming the salt) 1g/Kg, PH8, 150 g/Kg binder acetate base,
fibre chains, each type of textile fibers require softener, fixing agent, emulsifier and 50 g/Kg
different dyeing and printing treatment. pigment dye. The fabric was passed through the
Therefore, in this work, the viscose and printing flat machine to print the selected design
polyester fibers constituting the yarn used to and finally passed through a drying calendar
produce the fabric were dyed and printed using which is attached to the flat printing machine at
different dyeing and printing bath as described a temperature of 130ºc and the fabric was then
in the next sections. taken to the stenter machine for color fixation at
Batch - A (dyeing processes) 180ºc for duration of 1-2 minutes.
The dyeing process carried out in two stages: The finishing processes were completed by
a) Dyeing of Viscose Portion (35%): immersing the printed fabric into a bath
Dispersed dyes were used for dyeing the viscose containing 10 g/L softener to obtain smooth
fibers. The recipe was composed of 2% blue surface. The fabric was then passed through the
dye, 0.8% black dye, 0.008% red dye, acetic stenter machine for drying to obtain the fabric
acid 1cc/L. Dispersed agent 1 c c / L The liquor final width (150 cm) [5].
ratio was 1:7 and the dying temperature was 130
Table .2: Uster settings
oC. The fabric was fed to the dying machine in Module Fabric Tensile
a rope form and the duration of the treatment Jaw Separation 222.22mm
was 30 minutes [4]. Pretension 2.22N
b) Dyeing of Polyester Portion (65%) Rate of Extension 22mm/min
Insoluble vat dyes were used for dyeing the Break Detection %0.22
polyester fibers. The recipe was composed of Maximum Load 0222.22N
1% dark blue dye, reduction material, caustic Specimens (Warp & Weft) 0
soda 8 g/L, sodium hydro-sulphate (12 g/L). Table .3: Tensile strength in warp direction of the grey
The liquor ratio was 1:3. A jigger dyeing fabric
machine was used and and the fabric was fed in Max. Force Extension
Specimen
an open form. The temperature was adjusted to (Kgf) (%)
60 ºC and the treatment period was 45 minutes. 1 162.67 33.64
At the end of the dying process, the dyeing 2 161.00 33.23
3 167.96 33.96
liquor was drained and the fabric was subjected 4 160.11 33.13
to an oxidizing treatment using 10 ml/L 5 163.49 33.82
hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) at a temperature of Mean 163.05 33.56
50 ºC. The treatment period was 10 minutes [4]. Maximum 167.96 33.96
Batch -B (printing processes): Minimum 160.11 33.13
The printing processes carried out in two stages Range 7.85 0.83
as follows: Median 162.67 33.64
Std. Dev. 3.05 0.36
a) Dyeing of Fabric Background:
Conf. Limits +166.83 34.01
The fabric (batch B) was dyed by a dispersed Conf. Limits -159.26 33.11
dye for a colored background. The recipe was Coefficient of
composed of 0.189% blue dye, 0.0079 red dye, 1.87% 1.08%
Variation
acetic acid 1cc/L, disperse agent 1cc/L and the
liquor ratio 1:7. The liquor was transferred to SIMULATION RESULTS
the jet dyeing machine and the fabric was fed The tensile strength in both warp and weft
into a rope form. The temperature was adjusted directions of the grey, dyed and printed samples
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 SUST Journal of Engineering and Computer Sciences (JECS), Vol. 16, No. 1, 2015

was obtained using a computerized Uster slightly damaged during reductive washing
installed in Sour factory for military clothes with NaOH [6].
laboratory The Uster tester was adjusted as
shown in Table 2 [3]. For the grey fabric
(reference sample), the mean tensile strength in
warp direction was 163.05 Kgf and the
extension percentage was 33.56 whereas in weft
direction, the tensile strength was 115.07 and
the extension was 22.37%. The results are given
in Tables 3 and 4 and plotted in Figures 1 and 2.
These results were taken as a reference
specification.

Table.4: Tensile strength in weft direction of the grey

fabric Figure 1: Tensile strength curves in warp direction
Max. Force Extension (grey fabric)
Specimen
(Kgf) (%)
1 113.54 21.77
2 116.00 22.30
3 117.68 23.12
4 116.42 22.95
5 111.71 21.73
Mean 115.07 22.37
Maximum 117.68 23.12
Minimum 111.71 21.73
Range 5.97 1.39
Median 116.00 22.30
Std. Dev. 2.40 0.65
Conf. Limits +118.05 23.18
Conf. Limits -112.09 21.57
Coefficient
2.09% 2.89% Figure 2: Tensile strength curves in weft direction
of Variation
(grey fabric)

a) Effect of Dyeing
The mean tensile strength in warp direction
for the dyed fabric was 141.66 kgf and the
extension percentage was 37.97. In weft
direction however, the mean tensile strength
was 112.02 Kgf and the extension percentage
was 22.47. The results are plotted in Figures 3
and 4. Compared to the results obtained in
warp direction in the case of gray fabric, it can
be seen that after dying the tensile strength
decreased by 13.1% while the extension
increased by 13.1%. On the other hand, results
obtained when testing was carried out in the Figure 3: Tensile strength curves in warp direction
weft direction, showed a decrease in the (dyed sample)
tensile strength by 2.7% and an increase in the b) Effect of Printing
extension by 0.4%. The mean tensile strength in warp direction for
The slight decrease in the yarn tenacity after the printed sample was 151.19 kgf and the
the dyeing process was expected. This fall in extension percentage was 36.77 while in weft
tenacity arose from the fact that especially direction, the tensile strength was 109.54 kgf
viscose fibers and partly PES fibres get and the extension percentage was 22.75. The
results obtained are shown in Figures 5 and 6.
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 SUST Journal of Engineering and Computer Sciences (JECS), Vol. 16, No. 1, 2015

For warp direction, these results show that the

tensile strength decreases by 7.3% and the
extension increases by 9.6% compared to the
results obtained in the case of grey sample. In
weft direction however, there was a decrease
in the tensile strength amount to 4.8% and an
increase in the extension by 1.7%.

Figure 6: Tensile strength curves in warp direction

(Finished sample)

c) Effect of finishing process:

After finishing, the mean tensile strength in
warp direction was found to be 143.12 Kgf
and the extension was 43.38 %. The results
are plotted in Figure 6. For weft direction, the
Figure 4: Tensile strength curves in weft direction mean tensile strength was 108.42 kgf and the
(dyed sample) extension was 19.09 %. The results are shown
Figure 7.

Figure 5: Tensile strength curves in warp direction

(printed sample) Figure 7: Tensile strength curves in weft direction
(Finished sample)
The results obtained showed that in warp
direction, finishing treatment decreases the
tensile strength by 12.2% and increases the
extension by 29.1%. In weft direction
however, the finishing treatment decreases the
tensile strength and extension by 5.8% and
14.7% respectively.
The heat-setting processes increased the
values of yarn elongation within the range of
5.4% and 8.7%. Since cellulose
macromolecules, which form regenerated
cellulose fibres, are short, the attraction
Figure 6: Tensile strength curves in weft direction
(printed sample) between these macromolecules was not very
strong. Therefore, when a force parallel to the

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 SUST Journal of Engineering and Computer Sciences (JECS), Vol. 16, No. 1, 2015

fiber axis was applied to the regenerated A comparison was made between the results
cellulose fibers, bonds between the obtained in the case of gray, dyed and printed
macromolecules weakened, causing the fibers samples in warp and weft directions and the
to break. Breakages of wet regenerated fibres results are shown in Figures 8 – 11. A
took place more easily because of the swelling summary of the results are given in Table 5.
and sliding effects of water [7].

Mean force (kgf)

The results obtained showed that dying and 120
printing treatments affect the fabric strength 115
and extension. This may be attributed to the 110
macromolecular interactions that take place 105
during the dyeing and printing processes 1 2 3
1- grey, 2- dyed, 3- printed
between the fibres constituting the weft and
warp yarns in the fabric and the surface agents Figure 9: The Effect of Coloration on Fabric Strength
of constituting the dyeing and printing liquor. (Weft direction)

Mean extension
Furthermore, during stentering and drying 60
processes, the fabric is subjected to a high 40
tension and temperature that may also affects 20
its properties. 0
1 2 3
Grey dyed printed
Mean force (kgf)

Figure 10: The Effect of Coloration on Fabric

180 Extension (Warp direction)
160
Mean extension

140
24
120 22
1 2 3 20
18
1- grey, 2- dyed, 3- printed 16
Figure 8: The Effect of Coloration on Fabric Strength 1 2 3
(Warp direction). grey dyed printed
Figure 11: The Effect of Coloration on Fabric
Extension (Weft direction)
Table 5: Changes in yarn tensile strength after dying, printing and finishing process
Fabric properties
Batch A Batch B
Paramete dyed fabric printed fabric
dyed fabric Dyed fabric
rs (viscose dyed fabric (before Printed fabric
(background)
portion) finishing)
warp weft warp Weft warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft warp Weft
Force 163.0 115.0 141.6 112.0 139.2 111.6 152.0 114.5 151.1 109.5 143.1 108.4
(Kgf) 5 7 6 2 6 0 1 5 9 4 2 2
Extension
33.56 22.37 37.97 22.47 35.94 20.75 37.30 23.76 36.77 22.75 43.33 19.09
(%)

passage of printed fabric over Stenter

CONCLUSIONS
From the results obtained in this work, it can be machine many times.
concluded that:  Printed fabric elongation at warp direction
 Dying and printing treatments improve was greater than that of dyed fabric due to
fabric extensibility due to the effect of wet the effect of wet processes.
treatment processes.  Printed fabric extensibility in weft direction
 Printed fabric strength at warp direction was was less than that of dyed fabric due to the
greater than that of dyed fabric due to the passage of printed fabric over Stenter
printing thickener presence at fabric surface. machine many times.
 Printed fabric strength at weft direction was REFERENCES
[1] J. Hall, (1975), "The Standard Handbook of Textiles",
less than that of dyed fabric due to the 8th Edition, London, Newes-Butterworths.
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[2] W. Clarke, (2004), "An Introduction to Textile [6] Sibel Sardeg, Ozcan Ozdemir, Ismail Kara,(2007),
Printing", Wood Head Publishing Limited. The effect of Heat-Setting on the properties of
[3] John E. Booth, (1968), Principles of Textile Testing, polyester/viscose blended yarns; Uludag University,
3rd Edition, London, Butterworths. Turkey.
[4] E. R. TROTMAN, (1984), "Dyeing and Chemical [7] Tarakcıoglu I.,(1986), Textile Finishing and Machines
Technology of Textile Fibers", 6th Edition, Wiley, –Production and Finishing of Polyester Fibres;
New York. Aracılar Publishing Co.Izmir.
[5] J. W. Batty, (1978), "Textile Auxiliaries", 1st Edition,
Textile Business Press LTD for the International Dyer.