Plain Ayatul Kursi

EMBROIDERY PATTERN

lazydaisy_sa
071 899 6813
Lazy Daisy Embroidery
lazydaisyembroidery@outlook.com
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 THANK YOU FOR PURCHASING THIS
EMBROIDERY PATTERN AND
SUPPORTING MY SMALL BUSINESS!

This kit contains the embroidery pattern, list of materials needed,

stitching & colour guide.
Should you have any questions or require some help, please contact me
via Instagram, Whatsapp or email.

Lastly, I hope that you find embroidery relaxing and calming. Remember
that this is art, and you can interpret this pattern with your creativity.

- Radhia

Booklet Contents:
I. What do I need?
II. Pattern Outline
III. Getting Started
a. Placing fabric
b. Pattern transfer
c. Preparing the thread
d. Making the first stitch
e. Changing/replacing the thread
IV. Stitch guide
V. Finishing
VI. Stitch Collection
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 I. What do I need?
Embroidery hoop: 8’’ (20cm) hoop – provided
Fabric: Non-stretch fabric like cotton or linen is ideal.
2x unbleached calico pieces are provided (1 to practice
stiches and the other for the final embroidery).
Thread: Six-stranded embroidery thread/floss comes in skeins.
DMC thread is provided (PT – Practice Thread; BT –
Backing Thread).
Needle: Embroidery needles have larger eyes and tips
compared to normal needles. This is to accommodate
embroidery thread and allow embroidery on tightly
woven fabric.
1x size 5 embroidery needle is provided.
Pattern marker: A water-soluble or heat-erasable pen can be used. I’ve
started using the heat-erasable pen more often since
it’s faster to remove trace marks.
1x Frixion pen not provided.
Felt and card: For this design, you will be backing the embroidery
with felt and card. This is for display purposes and to
keep the fabric taut.
Felt and card, cut to its correct backing size is provided.
Scissors: Used to cut the fabric and thread – Not provided.
String: Used to display the final embroidery if you choose to
hang it – provided.

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 II. Pattern Outline

Summary of Method
1. Practice stitches with practice fabric and practice thread
2. Trace final design and enjoy embroidering the pattern
3. Remove trace lines with hairdryer/iron (steam function)
4. Back the embroidery

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 III. Getting Started
A. Placing the Fabric
1. Loosen the screw of the embroidery hoop (not entirely) and separate the
hoops.
2. Place the inner hoop on a flat surface and lay the fabric on top of it.
3. Then place the outer hoop on top of the fabric and push the outer hoop
down over the inner hoop.
4. The fabric is now sandwiched between the hoops, so start tightening the
screw while puling the fabric taut until it feels secure.
Be careful not to tighten the screw too much that you can’t loosen the
screw later.

B. Pattern Transfer
There are various methods to transfer the pattern. I usually use a light source,
such as a window or tablet and with the fabric in the hoop to keep the fabric
taut. Sometimes, dependent on the design and fabric used, you can trace the
pattern on a table (if the table is white or cream).

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For this kit, the pattern is already traced, so you can ignore the instructions
below.
Method 1: Table, not using the hoop and easy design
1. Place the pattern onto a flat surface (table) and secure it with Sellotape
(if the design is complicated, if it’s an easy design don’t use Sellotape).
2. Place the fabric over the pattern and ensure it’s centred.
3. Trace the patten with the Frixion pen and make sure the fabric is kept still.

Method 2: Window, using the hoop

1. Tape the pattern to a window (make sure it’s at the correct height). I also
trace while sitting and with the pattern just below eye level, however,
place the pattern where its most comfortable for you.
2. Sandwich the fabric between the hoops a explained in section A.
3. Turn the hoop around so that the back and inner hoop is facing you.
4. Centre the hoop on the design and trace. Please note, that your arm will
get tired from tracing, so do take a break if needed. Also try to keep the
hoop steady to ensure no lines are off-centre.
5. Once the tracing is complete, swop the fabric in the hoop so that the
pattern is facing you on the front side of the hoop.

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 C. Preparing the Thread
Embroidery floss comes in 6 strands. This pattern requires you to use 1, 2, 3, 4
& 6 strands at a time. The floss provided is 50cm in length, a length easy to use
and not to get the tangled while embroidering with it.
Separate the strands to the required amount by pulling it apart slowly to avoid
knotting.
To thread the needle can be tough at the start, but don’t worry. The easiest
method is to wet the end of the floss, squeeze it between your forefinger and
thumb (this flattens the floss). While flat, pass the floss through the eye of the
needle. Knot the other end of the floss. It’s complete!
Always make sure that you have
- thread hanging from the eye of the needle
to ensure no thread slips out while stitching
(about 5cm of thread) and,
- a tail behind the knot to ensure the knot
can’t be undone (about ½ - 1cm of thread).

D. Making the First Stitch

For most embroidery stitches, I hide the tail behind the knot so that it doesn’t
show through the fabric when displaying the final
embroidery. Please note, this is a preference, and
you do not need to do this.
1. Make the first stitch.
2. Bring the needle up through the fabric, but
only halfway through.
3. Turn the hoop to its backside. Keep the tail
down and pull the needle through. Part of
the tail should be “locked” by the thread as
shown in (a).
4. Make the second stitch.
5. Repeat steps 2 & 3, but this time make sure
the tail is moved through the loop (b).
6. Refer to image (b), the back should look like
this. (a)

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 7. You can stop locking the tail after making 2 or 3 stitches and continue with
the embroidery as is. You can cut off the excess after completing all
embroidery.

(b)
As mentioned, you do not need to do this, you can hide the tail once all the
embroidery is complete using other methods or leave it as is.
If you decide to hide the tails after completing the stitches, do the following:
1. Use the eye of the needle to gently push the tail under complete stitches
and cut off any excess.

E. Changing/Replacing the Thread

While stitching, you will notice that the embroidery thread you are using will
come to an end or the stitching pattern requires you to change colour or
stitches. To ensure that your stitch stay tight and neat,
you need to the close the stitch.
There are 3 options:
1. Turn your fabric to the backside and make a knot
close to the fabric and cut off the excess (c).
2. Slide the needle through 2 or more embroidery
stitches and cut off the excess (d).
3. Combo. Make a knot and close to the fabric and
(c)
slide the needle through embroidery
stitches, then cut off the excess.
I prefer option 3 because it’s the safest method
to ensure that your stitches don’t come undone.

(d)

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 III. Stitch Guide
The letters can either be stitched using split stitch or back stitch. For beginner's,
I'd recommend using back stitch. For "advanced" or adventurous stitchers, I'd
recommend trying split stitch.
DMC code 310 - 3 strands for Arabic letters and 2 strands for diacritics.
The full skein is provided, to cut off the right amount, pull the thread from the
end where the colour code is. Measure and cut a piece from the top of your
palm (or fingertips) till your elbow. You can then split the strands to the required
amount.

Order of Embroidery
1. Arabic letters
2. Arabic diacritics (kasra, damma, everything that is not a letter, etc.)

STEP 1

Arabic letters: 3 strands – DMC 310

The images from the embroidery below, was completed using split stitch.
Stitch the letters using either back or split stitch:
1. Start from right to left.
2. Make small stitches. This helps to shape the letters.
3. You will need to use your own judgement when determining how many
stitches to make the letters. Some may need 3, others 5 or more.
4. For the letters with dots, make it using French knots and only twist the
thread once around the needle (use 3 strands of thread).
When I stitched this design, I did not add the dots of specific letters, however,
you can add them as you stitch using French knots. Or add them after you've
completed the letters as shown below (next page).
5. For the dots, twist the thread once around the needle.
6. For the times when "alif" and "lam alif" overlaps, you can decide which to
do first. There is no rule.
Note: Stitch the letters first before the diacritics.

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Stitching Arabic letters can be tricky at the beginning, but you will get the hang
of it, just follow the design. There is no right or wrong method, just stitch on the
design with back and straight stitches.
As shown below, you can make the kasras and fatha with 3 strands while you
are stitching the letters. It is up to you.
Note: The image above has the kasra made with 2 or 3 back stitches, while the
image below has it created with 1 straight stitch.

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Tip:
For "alif" you can either make it plain or with a "hat" on top. I prefer plain
since the "hat" can become tricky (it’s something that caused me to restitch this
letter numerous times).
- Make 5 stitches: A → B → C
- Then D → A
- Continue from C → E → F

The above images show how to create it using split stitch. Follow the same steps
if you are using back stitch.
If you decide to create the plain vertical “alif”, repeat the same steps besides
the “hat” portion.

Back Stitch

Split Stitch

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Arabic letters before adding Diacritics

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 STEP 2

Arabic diacritics: 2 strands – DMC 310

For the diacritics, it's best to trace it. However, you do not need to trace all. I'd
recommend tracing the kasras and dammas. The others can be made using your
own judgement and referring to the design. However, it is possible to trace all.
Stitch the diacritics using back and straight stitch:
1. For the kasra and fatha make one straight stitch. Or make it using 2 or 3
back stitches. Whichever method creates the effect you prefer (Compare
the images on the page 10 to see the difference).
2. The sukun is a circle, made with 4 or 5 back stitches.
3. For the shadah , the tracing is not that clear to see the bends as shown
in the images below. Use your own judgement and follow the instructions
below. But if it's too difficult, just make 4 straight stitches in the shape of
a "w".

End the first stitch at Bring the needle up at Bring the needle up at
the bend the middle of the curve the middle joint

Bring the needle up a Bring the needle up at Bring the needle up in

little distance below the middle of the line with the middle
the first stitch curve line

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4. For the following diacritics, you can do the following:

- Make 3 stitches: A → B → C → D

- Make 2 stitches: Create “V” shape

- Make 4 stitches: A → B → C → D → E

- Make 3 stitches: Create 2 horizontal back stitches and 1

diagonal straight stitch

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- Make 5 stitches: Create “V” shape for points A → B → C
- Then create 3 stitches from B → D → E → F

- Make 4 stitches: A → B → C → D
- Then E → F and make sure this last stitch goes over point D

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YAY EMBROIDERY IS COMPLETE

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 IV. Finishing
Backing the Hoop
There are various methods to back the hoop. Some back the hoop with glue, sew
it, felt or leave it uncovered. I use all methods, but I'll show you the sewing and
felt method. (1m length of thread is given for the backing, do not cut it shorter
when backing the hoop).
1. Remove all trace marks and ensure that your embroidery is centred in the
hoop.
2. Trim the excess fabric by leaving approximately 2-3 cm of fabric around
the hoop. Place the round card inside the hoop.
3. Sew the excess fabric using running stitch (page 21) and backing thread
(BT) given.
4. Pull the thread tight and watch the fabric gather. Knot the thread after
gathering.
5. Take the felt and place it over the gathered fabric on the back and stitch
the felt to the back using overstitch (page 22) and backing thread (Use all
6 strands).
6. Tie it off and your embroidery is complete!

There is string in the box that can be used for hanging purposes if necessary.
Simply slip the string through the gap under the screw, knot it and hang your
piece of art.

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 V. Stitching Collection
A. Back Stitch
Back stitch is a common embroidery stitch typically used for outlining and
lettering.
1. Bring the needle up from the back and make one stitch by bringing the
needle back down.
2. Bring the needle back up, one stitch away from the first. Push the needle
back down into the end of the first stitch.
3. Continue the pattern as explained.

B. French Knot
French knots are great stitches to show decorative points, flower centres and
texture. You will need to use both hands when creating this stitch.
Hand 1 = Needle holding hand Hand 2 = Free hand
1. Bring the needle up and wind the thread around the needle once to create
a "twist". Keep the thread taut with hand 2. Ensure that you hold the
needle steady with hand 1 when winding.
2. While keeping the thread taut with hand 2, use hand 1 to insert part of
the needle back into the fabric close to but not in the same hole that the
thread came out of.
3. While keeping the thread with hand 2, slide the twist down the needle to
the fabric.
4. Use hand 2 to keep the thread and use hand 1 to pull the needle down
through the fabric slowly and watch the knot form.

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Completed French knots: A
A – Twisting the thread once
B – Twisting the thread twice B C
C – Twisting the thread thrice

C. Split Stitch
Split stitch is used to create lines and make outlines of shapes. It is perfect for
straight and curved lines. You typically use it to form plant
stems and lettering.
1. Bring the needle up from the back and make one stitch
by bringing the needle back down.
2. Bring the needle back up, a half stitch away from the
first. Push the needle back down into the middle of the
first stitch.
3. Repeat the previous step and insert the needle into the
middle of the previous stitch.
4. Continue the pattern as explained.

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 Practice Makes Perfect
There are 2 pieces of fabric, one to practice and another for your final
embroidery.
I suggest practicing the stitches if you have never embroidered before.
Simply draw lines with the Frixion/normal pen/pencil and practice your
stitches with the PT (Practice Thread) provided.

If you need any help, please reach out, watch my reels or watch a YouTube
video or 2.

Feel free to share your work-in-progress pics and your finished embroidery on
Instagram and tag me
(@lazydaisy_sa)

- Radhia

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 D. Running Stitch
Running stitch can be used for outlining. But is commonly used when backing a
hoop. Use the backing thread (BT) with 3 strands.
1. Bring the needle through the fabric and make one stitch. Similar, to
straight stitch.
2. Bring the needle back up a stitch space away from the first stitch.
3. Continue the pattern till the end.
4. After the last stitch, pull the thread and watch the fabric gather. Knot the
other end to keep the fabric gathered.

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 E. Overstitch/Whipstitch
Overstitch is used to join fabrics together.
1. Bring the needle through the felt at point A. Keep the knotted end of
thread under the felt.
2. Take the needle and pierce both the fabric and felt at point B and pull the
thread. You should notice that the thread goes over the felt and fabric.
3. Continue the pattern till the end.
4. After the last stitch, bring the needle through the fabric and knot the end.
Insert the needle into the fabric and cut the excess off.
5. You have now hidden the loose thread.

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 WELL DONE!!
I hope you enjoyed stitching this pattern and experienced the calmness that
embroidery brings

Feel free to share your work-in-progress pics and your finished embroidery on
Instagram and tag me
(@lazydaisy_sa)

- Radhia

Please don't share this pattern, resell this pattern or publish content of this
pattern online. This pattern is for personal use.
This pattern is property of Lazy Daisy Embroidery and all rights reserved.

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