Making The Chair: LUNA'
Making The Chair: LUNA'
Making The Chair: LUNA'
February 2023
MAKING THE
‘LUNA’ CHAIR
Jeff Maker shoots for
the moon with this
ttechnical
echnical b
build
uild
DOUBLE
WIN
1 OF 3 CLARKEE
POWER PLAN
PLANERS
RS
1 OF 5
ROBERT SORBY
TOOL REST
ADJUSTMENT COLLARS
RS
PLUS...
www.thewoodworkermag.com
www.
www.th
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● KEEP ON TURNING: THE
HE BLIND WOODTURNER’S INSPIRING STORY
● ART MEETS SCIENCE: CARTOGRAPHIC CHEST WITH A DIFFERENCE
£4.99
Welcome
The incredibly cold snap just before Christmas happened
my partner has been dreaming of for years. An avid
hobbyist woodworker, he’s very eager to set up his tools
and equipment and start making things once more, as
well as finally having space for a vast amount of fishing
to coincide with a local tree surgeon coming round and gear and beloved 1966 Lambretta Li 150 Special.
spending a very frosty few hours tidying up the garden.
The appointment had been booked a fair few months Trees Understood
prior, when the weather was unseasonably warm, so I Armed with all manner of kit from chainsaws,
really felt for the chaps as they set about cutting down telescopic loppers, pruning saws, axes, tripod ladders
several trees, and doing some serious pruning/general and – my favourite – a backpack leaf blower, all branches Tegan Foley
sprucing up of this green space. and garden waste was carried through and deposited Group Editor
Of course, I was the only one to feel the cold that day in the chipper set up outside. Also, as a final flourish,
as the team of three came well prepared for working in the extremely powerful leaf blower was used to ensure
such conditions, Despite the frozen lawn, which hadn’t the garden was left neat and tidy, with the end result
thawed for several days, and temperatures that made being incredibly impressive.
my fingers and toes go numb, they seemed in remarkably Demonstrating an extensive knowledge and
good spirits as the day progressed – singing, laughing understanding of trees, the team managed to transform
and keeping us informed as to planned works. the garden within just a few hours; this has resulted in a
great deal more light being let into the property as well
A new workshop as a previously undiscovered area, which is likely to be
Due to there being no access to the back garden from transformed into a pond in the not-too-distant future.
the side of the property, the team had to set up an access I definitely have a newfound appreciation for those Rhona Bolger
route through the French doors that open onto the garden, who work outdoors in all weathers and while thermal Group Advertising Manager
which led all the way through the front room, hallway and layers can be used to good effect, I can say for absolute
out the front door. While not an ideal solution in winter, it certain that I don’t think I’d survive long outside of my
was nevertheless executed with the minimum of fuss and cosy office!
disruption to ourselves. Dust sheets were laid to cover the
path, and door opening and closing managed to ensure New year, new projects
that a) the cat didn’t make a run for it; b) too much warm On the subject of workshops, we hope you’ve managed
air wasn’t lost from inside. to find the time to use yours and carry on making, despite
The remit for the day was to remove several trees the colder temperatures. With the start of a new year
in order to make room for a new shed/workshop, which comes more opportunities for practising skills and trying
your hand at some of the projects within the pages of our
new February 2023 issue. We hope you enjoy this month’s Phil Davy
selection and don’t forget to keep sending in top workshop Technical & Consultant Editor
hints and tips as well as sharing photos of your latest
woodworking creations.
Enjoy!
Email tegan.foley@dhpub.co.uk
We endeavour to ensure all techniques shown in this issue are safe, but take no responsibility for readers’ actions.
Take care when woodworking and always use guards, goggles, masks, hold-down devices and ear protection, and above all, plenty of common sense. Do remember to enjoy yourself, though
44 OFF GRID
Martin Aplin could’ve just copied a cartographic chest, but we
persu
persuaded him to do something a little more organic…
Double
WIN!
Win 1 of 3 Clarke
k
power planers,
courtesy of
Machine Mart
PROJECT DIFFICULTY 1-5 see page 17 for details
Each project in this issue includes a difficulty rating from 1-5, so you can readily see whether
or not a particular one is suited to you. While it’s good to try and push yourself and develop Win 1 of 5
skills, workshop safety should always be a main consideration and we urge you not to attempt
a project/use specified tools or machinery, if you’re unsure how to do so in a safe manner.
Robert Sorby
A wide range of safety information is available online and a good place to start is www.hse.gov.uk TRACs – Tool
1 Very easy; only requires basic tools
ent
Rest Adjustment
2 Simple to make; only a few tools required Collars
3 Aimed at beginners-intermediate; some specific equipment/tools required
4 Aimed at intermediate-advanced; sound woodworking knowledge required in addition
worth £25.99 each –
to a wide range of hand/power tools see page 21 for details
5 Advanced skills/knowledge required; a wide range of specialist equipment is needed to
complete the project
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BRITISH
HARDWOODS’
timber sale
& open day
British Hardwoods is pleased to announce
the date of its next timber shop sale and open Special prices will be available on ranges A spoon whittling demonstration
day, which will be held on Saturday 4 February of sawn Native, European, American and on Classic Hand Tools’ stand
from 10am-3pm. Discounted prices will be Canadian timbers
available on ranges of sawn Native, European,
American and Canadian timbers, and there’ll as well as pyrography taster sessions, Keighley BD20 7BW. Entry and event
be plenty of popular sale day packs and woodturning and woodcarving demonstrations. parking is free of charge and everyone’s
bargains galore, so come along and don’t miss And if that’s not enough, there’ll also be plenty welcome to attend. Refreshments will
out – all discounts are only valid on this day. of craft makers and gift stalls to see and enjoy. also be available for visitors on the day.
In addition, visitors can expect to see a The open day will be held at British Hardwoods’ For more information, call British
great line-up of exhibitors and demonstrators, premises, which is situated at Unit 9A Riparian Hardwoods on 01535 637 755 or visit the
including Turners Retreat, Classic Hand Tools, Way, The Crossings Business Park, Cross Hills, website www.britishhardwoods.co.uk.
LIBERON polishes up student lathe and laser. I’ve always been a strong
advocate of Liberon’s Wax Polish Black
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TIMBER DIRECTORY
G&S Specialist Timber (Cumbria) Scawton Sawmill (North Yorkshire) Yandle & Sons Ltd (Somerset)
Tel: 01768 891 445 Tel: 01845 597 733 Tel: 01935 822 207
Web: www.toolsandtimber.co.uk Web: www.scawtonsawmill.co.uk Web: www.yandles.co.uk
CLARKE CEP720BB
CLARKE POWER 720W ELECTRIC
PLANER
All planes use a similar two-blade drum Each has an indexed dial to adjust the cut – Each rear handle ‘tote’ provides the same grip
this one’s the smallest
Triggers and release buttons are standard, too Depth guides are removable One of the shavings outlets on the CE450
Well designed
Having tested each of the models thoroughly,
I can say that they’re all very much up to the
job for which they’ve been designed. The
smallest CEP450 has a maximum depth of
1½mm, while the others can trim up to 3mm
– although the published maximum for the
CE720 is 2mm. Each has a motor that can The others have two; the lever shows which is open Only the CEP720 is supplied with a collection bag
easily cope with the maximum cut without any
noticeable strain. All blades are sharp and give
an exceptionally clean and smooth finish straight
out of the box, removing them for sharpening
is simple, and the spanners for this task are
included. Setting blades level with the rear plate
is less of a fiddle as they all have grub screws
in the blade carriers, which makes this task a
lot easier. Small stands at the back of each
keepthe blades off the surface when not in
use; these move up into the sole as they
contact the timber being planed. The CON950’s
is spring-loaded and can be kept out of the
way – a good thing, as it can otherwise snag With adaptor fitted, the bag also fits the CON950… ... but quickly fills up…
on the workpiece’s back edge. Even with this
feature, it’s important to wait until the drum
has completely stopped before putting it down.
This takes seven seconds for the CON950, four
for the 720, and a mere two for the 450.
The CE720’s published maximum cut is 2mm! It’s difficult to show the smooth finish achieved Blade removal spanners are stored in the body
SPECIFICATION
Clarke CEP450 60mm 450W planer (230V)
Volts: 230V
Watts: 450W
Depth of cut: 1.5mm
Width of cut: 60mm
Rebating depth: 8mm
Typical price: £44.39 (inc VAT)
than the others, even with an extractor connected, light work, you won’t be disappointed THE VERDICT
due to the open sides. It’s ideal for removing rough with its performance, however.
surfaces on wider timber, although the planing of If I was forced to choose one, it would Clarke CEP450 60mm 450W planer (230V)
an exceptionally wide piece of hardwood indicated have to be the mid-range CEP720, which is PROS
the need for a small amount of blade adjustment. due to be superseded by the new CEP720B Light; easy to manoeuvre; convenient
The smallest of the three – the CEP450 – is model. Of the three it feels the best balanced for small planing tasks
nimble and easier to balance on thinner sections and easiest to control, with geometry similar
and when chamfering edges, but the 60mm blade to the jack planes I’m more accustomed to. CONS
width isn’t sufficient for all my planing needs and The depth control knob is a good size, it’s Limited width; depth adjustment knob
the depth control isn’t big enough to provide good supplied with a guide fence and depth stop, too small to hold firmly
grip – like a block plane, but bigger. There’s only and the switchable double extraction port
one outlet for shavings, which limits extraction and dust bag allows for more flexible use. Clarke CEP720 82mm planer
to the right. If you only need something for It’s a shame that the blade isn’t wider, but PROS
perhaps that would affect its handling? Well balanced; features large adjustment
We’re perfectly used to requiring several knob for comfortable use and good control
hand planes to complete different tasks –
a smoothing plane, jack plane and jointer, CONS
for example – and planers are no different If only it had a slightly wider blade!
in this respect. I’m very pleased to say that
they’re all good value for money, as I’ve always Clarke Contractor CON950 110mm planer
found Clarke power tools to be. Not as fancy PROS
or robust-feeling as more expensive models, Width of blade ideal for larger pieces;
perhaps, but so far I’ve not experienced evidence powerful motor gives 3mm cut
of cost-cutting affecting their performance. I shall
be undertaking more testing to verify long-term CONS
The CON950’s handle makes using the adjustment reliability, but in the meantime, I’ve certainly The front handle would be better if placed
knob more difficult when planing not given up on my trusty hand planes! further forwards; snipe is more difficult
to control on shorter pieces of wood
WIN!
1 of 3 Clarke
power planers
– courtesy of
Machine Mart
In conjunction with
Machine Mart, we
have three different
Clarke power planer
models to give away
from their extensive
range – two of which
are high performance
and one lightweight
CLARKE CEP450 60MM 450W PLANER CLARKE CONTRACTOR CON950 Technical specification
– £44.39 110MM PLANER – £89.99 Width of cut: 110mm
A versatile lightweight planer with 450W, A high performance professional grade Depth of cut: 3mm
230V motor. Capable of acheiving a 60mm planer with powerful 950W, 230V motor, Rebating depth: 8mm
wide cut, this model is ideal for hanging doors, this model has two V-groove depths on the Watts: 950W
for example. Featuring a safety lock switch to base for chamfering and a park rest to avoid Volts: 230V
prevent accidental start-up, there’s two sizes unintentional damage to both workpiece and Dust extraction: Yes
of V-groove for chamfering workpiece corners. blades. For added safety, there’s a lock-off
button that prevents accidental operation. To find out more, see www.machinemart.co.uk.
Technical specification A dust bag or vacuum extraction hose can be
Width of cut: 60mm
Depth of cut: 1.5mm
attached to either side with selectable left or
right chip/dust extraction.
HOW TO ENTER
Rebating depth: 8mm To be in with a chance of winning 1 of 3
Watts: 450W Clarke power planers, courtesy of Machine
Volts: 230V Mart, visit www.thewoodworkermag.com/
Dust extraction: Yes category/win and answer the multiple
choice question below:
CLARKE CEP720B 720W PLANER
– £53.99 QUESTION: What size of motor
A high performance planer with powerful does the CEP720B planer have?
720W, 230V motor. It has a V-groove base for
A: 720W, 230V
chamfering and a park rest to avoid unintentional
damage to the workpiece and blades. For added
B: 950W, 230V
safety, there’s a lock-off button that prevents C: 450W, 230V
accidental operation. An easy to empty zipped The winners will be randomly drawn from all
dust collection bag can be attached to either correct entries – the first to be drawn will receive
side of the planer body with left or right the CEP450 model; the second drawn the CEP720B,
chip/dust extraction. and the third will receive the Contractor CON950
planer. If any of these models aren’t in stock when
Technical specification the competition closes, Machine Mart will offer the
winner a gift card of equivalent value. The closing
Width of cut: 82mm
date for the competition is 17 February 2023.
Depth of cut: 3mm Only one entry per person; multiple entries will be
Rebating depth: 18mm discarded. Employees of David Hall Publishing Ltd
Watts: 720W and Machine Mart are not eligible to enter this
Volts: 230V competition
COLLINS
SPRING CLAMP
STARTER KIT
Simple yet effective, these clever
Spring Clamps are ideal toolbox additions when Here, clamps span the joint and apply pressure
it comes to standard mitre frame-type work to this skirting mitre
The clamps sit onto the pliers over hooked ends Squeezing the pliers easily opens the spring clamp Applying clamp to mitre brings all together tightly…
S
implicity is often the key to successful so therefore require very little, if any, filling standard mitre frame-type work. The
woodworking and when it comes to work. Foil wrapped or pre-finished mouldings downside will be felt by the kitchen and
clamping, getting things secured quickly would require a great deal more thought by built-in furniture installers where the foil
plays an important part. Where sash placing the clamps on an unseen area if possible, wrapped or other pre-finished mouldings
clamps, speed clamps and variants of these or in the quirk line where a small puncture may are predominant and need to be kept pristine,
are ideal for general assembly work, securing not be easily spotted. However, due to the way but in general applications, where a finish
mitres involves systems all to themselves. they work, the clamps aren’t really suited to is applied once fitted, these will prove to
With alignment, the key to a good mitre – and this particular area. be a real boon.
tightening the joint quickly – is where these
simple but effective spring clamps come in. Pliers SPECIFICATION
Clamp application can be achieved with hand Clamp material: Spring steel
Clamps pressure, but they do require a fair bit of force in Max. clamping capacity: 45mm
On a simple, flat mitre, a single spring on the order to open to the full extent; this makes them Max. opening capacity – pliers: 75mm
outer edge will be sufficient to hold the joint a tad difficult to control when applying to a joint.
while still allowing it to be manipulated enough The solution is to use the pliers, which work in a Typical price: Pack of 4 × 75mm clamps
so that it’s fully aligned, but on a wider moulded similar way to the circlip variety. By squeezing the & 75mm capacity pliers – £32.70
piece, such as an ornate frame, compound mitre plier handles together, the spring points can be Web: www.toolovation.co.uk
or cornice, for example, they can be doubled fully extended, thus allowing easy application
up to pull the moulding in accordingly. to the mitre.
THE VERDICT
What makes them all the more appealing is The springing action also allows variable PROS
the fact they’ll work on a mitre of any angle as pressure to be applied to a joint, which is ideal if Present a fast and easy way of nipping
it’s pressure from the spring and the grip from the you’re working with more delicate materials that up mitres; works on all mitre angles
sharp points that do the work, spanning over the only require light pressure to secure the joint while
mitre itself without addressing the component the adhesive sets – in which case, these present CONS
edges, as with standard clamps. the perfect option. Not ideal for foil-wrapped stock or finished
The issue, of course, concerns these points work; leaves small pin holes after use
piercing the surface as they’re indeed very sharp, Conclusion
but on solid timber and similar stock, this actually I love the simple and effective nature of these RATING – VALUE: 4 OUT OF 5
works in their favour as they tend to pierce the clamps, and they’re handy toolbox additions for PERFORMANCE: 4 OUT OF 5
grain without leaving big dents or blemishes, site work on skirtings and architraves alongside
… while still allowing you to slide it around and On ornate moulds, additional clamps can be The Spring Clamp’s design allows them to span
ensure everything is accurately positioned added to the profiles any mitre angle
THE VERDICT
PROS
Neat multi-function; sticks to the bandsaw
for easy accessibility
CONS
No measuring scale on long edge
RATING :
PERFORMANCE: 4 OUT OF 5
RATING:
A series of 25mm holes allows bowl blanks to When not in use, the Bandsaw Buddy can be VALUE: 4.5 OUT OF 5
be marked up for cutting secured to any of the machine’s metal surfaces
AVAILABLE IN 9 SIZES!
The Robert Sorby TRAC is available in nine sizes,
to suit the standard tool rest stem of virtually
every lathe available in the world, as well as the
full range of stems from the Robert Sorby
modular tool rest system.
Contact your nearest stockists for For ease of recognition, the inner collar is colour coded for
availability! each of the nine sizes available.
PROUDLY MADE IN
SHEFFIELD, ENGLAND
www.robert-sorby.co.uk
Robert Sorby, Sheffield ENGLAND
Tel: +44 (0) 114 225 0700 E-mail: sales@robert-sorby.co.uk
DM-TOOLS.CO.UK
Quality Tools,
Trusted Service
& Expert Advice
D&M Tools has been family owned and managed since 1978. During that
time we have earned a reputation with our customers as a trusted partner.
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RECORD POWER 62065 SC4 PROFESSIONAL GEARED SCROLL CHUCK PACKAGE – DIRECT THREAD
MANUFACTURER: Record Power
D&M GUIDE PRICE: £139.99 (inc VAT)
Ideally suited to the demanding woodturner,
the SC4 geared scroll chuck is capable of
holding large workpieces yet possesses
the precision and compactness to handle
more delicate work. This model features
an enclosed back with full indexing plate
and pinions driven by a long ball-ended
hex key to achieve easy access, even
when large workpieces are mounted.
The chuck features a M33 × 3.5 direct
thread, making it compatible with Record
Power’s full range of lathes as well as
those from many other manufacturers.
Supplied with deep wood screw, standard
jaws and 87mm faceplate, this chuck
package offers professional performance
at an exceptionally affordable price.
Includes: 62313 50mm Standard Jaws;
62572 87mm (3.5in) Faceplate Ring; 62825
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62836 SC3; and SC4 Chuck Fastening Kit.
PLEASE CHECK OUR WEBSITE – WWW.DM-TOOLS.CO.UK – FOR THE LATEST PRICES AND DEALS
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DISPLAYN
HARROGATE
‘ ’
RETURNS
Following a two-year break, the country’s longest
running, highest attended retail woodworking event
– the North of England Woodworking & Power Tool
Show – made a welcome return to the Yorkshire
Event Centre, Harrogate, in November 2022
The show gives people the chance to see and try new tools/equipment before they buy,
along with expert help if needed
big thank you to everyone who were thrilled to welcome so many visitors
FURTHER INFORMATION
The 2023 event will be held over the weekend
of 10–12 November at the Yorkshire Event
Centre. Further information regarding
exhibitors, demonstrators and advance tickets
will be made available soon. In the meantime,
WW author and professional production turner Les Thorne drew in the crowds as he shared his expert tips visit www.harrogatewoodworkingshow.co.uk
and techniques
DEMONSTRATORS
INCLUDE
NN
ANDREW HALL RICK DOBNEY NIC WESTERMA
PETER TREE SIMON HOPE MICK HANBURY EMMA COOK WAYNE MACK
C
harmed by their elegant pediments
and fanlights, as a teenager I somehow
found the nerve to cycle around
Chichester photographing the town’s
Georgian doors, returning later in the hope of
flogging my rapidly framed photos to the doors’
respective owners. Commercially the enterprise
was a flop, but it did further my appreciation of
domestic architecture and gave me practice in
hand-sawing mitre joints; a skill which, unlike
riding a bike, I seem to have forgotten. My last
attempt at picture framing produced mitres
gaping like the mouths of hungry nestlings.
‘Gunstock’ stile
I mention this because, while revisiting The
Woodworker of 1924 – in search of a ‘Newspaper
Tidy’: found, page 39, February – the May issue
flopped open at a page of technical drawings for
doors with ‘diminished stiles’. Although I hadn’t
taken note of this detail of door design before,
I feel sure I must’ve encountered it because its
purpose is to admit more light to retail premises,
hallways and workshops, all of which figured
prominently in childhood; I’m remembering the
sweet shops, the shared vestibules of once-grand
houses converted to flats for elderly relatives, and
the home-built sheds and greenhouses where
people would potter by the fading light of day.
Looking at that obliquely cut joint between
stile and lock rail (Fig.3), I can see why its shape
gave rise to the alternative name of a ‘gunstock’
stile. But there’s a lot going on here besides a
pleasing slope. Above the broad rail, the stiles
are rebated for glass while below it they must
be grooved for solid panels using the plough
plane. Transitioning cleanly between groove and
rebate using hand tools must surely be a tricky
operation, and then there are glazing bars to be
mortised top and bottom to receive the uprights. A handsome window for the shed joiner’s shop I’ve admired in old paintings.
Above the raised panels, themselves bordered Just recently my appreciation of door joinery Bisecting the door with a 1960s Eclipse
by shapely bolection mouldings one side and went up a level while dismantling a not dissimilar General Purpose saw – ‘the same blade
flush beads on the other, the suggestion is door, albeit machine-made and with stiles cuts both wood and metal’ – was a hard slog,
either for a cupid’s-bow style of apron piece undiminished, which a local replacement doors but I’d opted to use this saw in case of hitting
joined by tongue & groove (Fig.7), or horizontal and windows firm had offered gratis ‘to a good hidden fastenings. And despite it not being a
double beads (Fig.8) cut with a double quirk home’. Having persuaded my son to ‘sleep’ his door of diminished stiles, the job of salvaging
bead moulding plane. While describing shoulders, computer in favour of a healthy stroll beside the wood from its lower half has certainly put a
the author conveys a hint of difficulties faced river that day, I’m sure he felt decidedly miffed at new twist on the economic law of diminishing
by a 1920s worker doing everything by hand, having to help lug the weighty and unwieldy door returns. Making some four-square timber
commenting ‘there is invariably a certain amount homewards, but it was an opportunity too good to of that structure assembled with such deep
of damage done to the first shoulder during the miss. I’d seen in its glazed upper half the potential mortises & tenons, grooves and mouldings,
process of mortising, rebating and moulding’ and for upcycling as a handsome window for the shed, has had me sawing and planing for hours on
then ‘some joiners prefer to chop the mortises where its criss-crossed glazing bars now recall end. I suspect I’ll end up with barely enough
in the stiles before they are diminished’. the traditional multi-paned windows of the wood to make a nestbox!
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Claims can be registered on-line from 1st October 2022 and must be registered within 28 days of purchase for qualifying models.
Qualifying models must be purchased by 31st March 2023 to qualify and registered within 28 days.
TECHNICAL Making the ‘Luna’ chair
Storied Furniture
Attracted by the area’s natural beauty and
incredible story of landscape change from coal
mines, clay extraction, pipeworks, potteries,
brewing, etc. – which fuelled the industrial
revolution – to a green landscape of tree planting,
encouraging biodiversity, and a burgeoning green
economy, this felt like the perfect place for Jeff
to locate himself and the new venture.
Naming the business ‘Storied Furniture’,
the idea for this stems from the notion that
the objects with which we surround ourselves
functioning as both symbols of the story we
wish to tell about ourselves, as well as becoming artist before focusing on developing a successful coming away with a “buzzing” feeling of
receptacles for the narrative of our daily lives career working in art galleries and the commercial excitement having found somewhere that
– shaping, and being shaped by, personal events sector, in various roles from audio visual taught the highest standards of craftsmanship
experiences. “This is what I aspire to with technician, to exhibition carpenter and project while supporting students to be bold with
my work; everything I make should contain manager: “I always enjoyed the creative and their designs and encouraging creativity, all
a bit of myself, as well as that of its owner.” practical problem solving aspects of this work, with a grounding in traditional hand skills.
As a furniture maker, Jeff produces pieces whether as part of the design or hands-on “When I started to develop designs for the
that embrace the craftsmanship and quality construction; however, I always found myself ‘Luna’ chair, Will and Ollie’s excitement for the
learnt during his time studying at Waters and at odds with the industry’s inherent wastefulness, design and critical feedback really helped me
Acland, bringing a creative and personalised especially on the commercial side, with some focus on refining the design intent and structure
approach to design in order to create pieces things I built only being used for a matter to ensure it communicated my interests while
that are sensitive to their owners and the of hours before they were demolished.” also being a comfortable piece of furniture that
setting in which they live. “I also couple this After exploring a number of avenues, Jeff was strong enough to withstand a lifetime –
with a localised approach to sustainability,” settled on the fine furniture making route, as it or two – of use.”
Jeff explains: “I’m fortunate to be able to source presented a perfect balance between the creative ‘Luna’ chair was the final piece made by
excellent quality timber from several suppliers, outlet and practical enjoyment of making: “It Jeff during his time at Waters and Acland, as
which is grown, harvested and seasoned within appealed to me both as a practical craft – creating he explains: “I knew I wanted to make a chair
30 miles of my workshop, with the nearest less objects intended for use with a deep tradition during my time there, and I thought a lounge
than fives miles away. As so much timber is of craftsmanship – and as a design form that chair would provide an opportunity to really
imported to the UK, it’s important for me to utilise allowed creative expression and a means of challenge myself from both a design and
home-grown materials in order to help, support communicating ideas you can live with.” making perspective, as well as creating a
and promote sustainable woodland management.” piece capable of showcasing my skill and
Waters and Acland Furniture School design style.”
Creative outlet & practical enjoyment Jeff discovered the Waters and Acland Furniture
Before deciding to pursue a career in furniture School while researching training options, which Researching the subject
making, Jeff studied Fine Art at Nottingham was shortly before the first COVID-19 lockdown Having long had a fascination with astronomy
Trent University. Having graduated, he went took place. Luckily, he was able to visit the school and space exploration, as well as folk stories
on to spend a number of years as a practising before this came into effect and recalls and traditions, for Jeff, the moon felt like a
perfect point of inspiration to bring these abstract lunar form – which presents the Apollo practice the shaping process on less costly
together and express overlapping interests. lunar lander in visual form, which is considered material and, most critically, help refine the
“My design process begins with a lot of research. a potent symbol of space exploration. “It took ergonomics to ensure it’d be a comfortable
I read many traditional folk stories surrounding a huge amount of iteration and refinement to chair to sit in once complete.” For this, Jeff
our nearest celestial body as well as spending get the right combination of physical structure built an adjustable MDF jig – to alter the
hours trawling the open archive of photos made and aesthetic balance into the frame,” says Jeff. height and angle of both seat and back –
available by NASA on the Jet Propulsion Lab “Not only did I share this with Will and Ollie, in addition to the distance between these.
website. I also spent a lot of time researching but also fellow students to better gauge their With the circular seat form, Jeff found that
mid-century modern lounge chairs and many perceptions of the evolving design.” the front edge put a bit too much pressure
variations of stick chairs from Windsor to Orkney, on the inside of the knee, unless the sitter had
and others in between, looking for threads in CAD & Fusion 360 their legs spread. “After some jig adjustment
these areas that I could bring together to As the design concept was resolved, Jeff moved and a test sitting using various heights of
create a coherent design.” into CAD, where he modelled the design using fellow students, I was able to gather feedback,
Fusion 360: “Having previously trained and take some measurements from the jig, then
Sketchbook & central design worked in Solidworks for two years, transitioning adjust the CAD model accordingly. To rectify
The sketchbook phase saw Jeff quickly honing to Fusion – a very powerful but much more this, I slightly lowered the seat and brought
in on a central design focus – the chair back’s affordable CAD package – was relatively easy. the backrest forwards a touch, thus removing
At this stage, I could start defining the design this pressure point.”
and resolving its geometry and ergonomics.”
Starting out using ergonomic geometry The build commences
taken from another chair, this acted as a guide With final design alterations made, Jeff was
and would allow Jeff to arrived at a comfortable ready to start the build; a process that relied on
sitting position. From here, he built the model a synergy of both digital production processes
outwards from the seat and back position. and accurate hand tool work.
Throughout the design process, Jeff considered
Jigs & prototypes several timber options but eventually settled on
“Once modelled in CAD, I then made a prototype olive ash, which he sourced from Shelmore Timber
seat and back in poplar; this allowed me to in Staffordshire: “I chose this timber species as I
wanted a distinctive grain pattern, which would
give a sense of the lunar surface’s geological
strata while also accentuating the more subtle
2 Following a visit to Shelmore Timber in aspects of shaping in the design.”
Staffordshire, I selected a few boards of beautiful
olive ash, which were used to build a prototype chair Visualising the end result
The first stage of the making process involved
spending some time with the boards, trying
to imagine the components held within them:
“This involved laying out rough measurements
of each component, starting with the most
visually prominent through to the least visible.
After several revisions, I was ready to machine
up the blanks for all the turned spindles. Due
to the way in which the pieces nested onto each
board – i.e. working around knots, inclusions,
etc. – this was mostly carried out using a
jigsaw and bandsaw before planing up.
Jeff explains the importance of the chair
3 It’s great to have British-grown timber, but spindles being consistent and accurate in
knowing it’s come from the estate on which the 4 My first sit on the prototype chair dimension, with a precisely angled taper into
mill is located is a definite plus the tenon: “As I didn’t have access to a large
enough lathe for the longest spindles, I had I made the coped joint using a spindle moulder and as such, any slight discrepancies were
these produced on a copy lathe by a nearby fitted with a custom-made cutterblock and sled, likely to quickly cause issues.
joinery workshop. I produced the templates which holds the workpiece at the desired point.
for these with the Shaper Origin CNC router. Having played around with various leg spindle Baseboard jig
I used Fusion 360 to produce a DXF file for each diameters, I settled on 44mm, which provided Once the production turner had returned
of the turned components, with the four legs the correct balance between strength and Jeff’s completed spindles, he set about making
produced oversize. These files were imported elegance. Unfortunately, this required a custom- a baseboard jig from which to build off: “This
into the Origin and machined from 18mm MDF. made cutter for the coped joint, but the end created my base plane, and from here, I could
I was then able to take these to the production result was worth the expense. I made these lay out all measurements.” The four legs were
turner and explain the requirements and cuts in several passes to ensure a clean turned with a small 20mm tenon on the end,
tolerances of these components.” surface as well as reducing any potential risk.” to locate them into the baseboard. “Going back
Once Jeff had produced all the joint faces, he to the CAD model for measurements, I laid out
Seat underframe & compound angles carried out final shaping using MDF templates, and drilled four angled holes into the baseboard;
While these parts were being produced, Jeff which were cut on the bandsaw and sanded this held the feet in the correct position as well
started work on the seat underframe, as well to final shape using 1:1 printouts taken from as at the correct splay angle.” Next, Jeff marked
as making up the blanks for both seat and back. CAD. These templates were then used to coped joint heights and positioned the clamped
“The underframe sweeps out to meet the legs, create the final shape on a router table once up underframe components so he could check
creating an elegant junction and also increasing the components had been roughed out on a for fit. Final adjustments were made to the
the amount of material around the coped joints bandsaw. A stopped roundover, using a router coped joints using abrasive paper wrapped
where the frame meets the legs. This massively cutter, was then applied to all visible edges. around a poplar offcut.
increases the joint’s strength without adding
too much weight to the piece visually.” Poplar test piece Joint reinforcing
After roughing out the components to squared In addition to the olive ash chair components, The coped joints were further reinforced with
sections, Jeff was able to cut all the necessary Jeff also produced an underframe and set of several lengths of threaded rod: “As these would
compound angles with the aid of a crosscut sled legs in less expensive poplar – otherwise known be glued up with epoxy mixed with a colloidal
fitted on a table saw, then jointed these with as canary or tulipwood – so he could test all the silica to thicken the mixture, it was important
Dominos. “Finally, after having cut the correct joinery processes. This ensured the success of that the holes for the threaded rod weren’t too
angle where the component meets the leg, each joint as there were many compound angles, tight; this would allow a good amount of epoxy
8 Dry fit of the underframe components before 9 Further seat shaping was carried out before 10 Test seat and back begin to take shape
final shaping tackling the concave faces following slight deviations from the CAD design
11 After a few sketches, I flipped the seat blank 12 Prior to dry fitting, I’d made a lot of progress, 13 Owing to the leg angles, the moon lander
to try out the shape shown here, which resulted from having the legs and rounds all turned to influence is made clearer
in exposing the Dominos. I was much happier with machining and jointing the underseat frame. It was
this shape, even though it’s a little difficult to see now starting to look a lot more like the drawing
to bond to the threaded rod’s surface instead of underframe to be separated during creation of cut on a table saw.” These jigs allowed a
just soaking into the timber and squeezing out the spindle mortises. With a relatively simple part 240V drill to be secured in a sled that ran in
of the joint.” This ensures the strongest possible of the frame construction completed, Jeff could a rebate cut in a pedestal; this presented Jeff
joint in an area that’ll see the greatest stress now turn his attention to the mortises: “Having with a perfect ‘ZX’ angle for the mortise. He
when the chair is in use. One hole, however, discussed various options for creating these with could also clamp a stop block to the jig in order
was drilled for a tight fit; this located the joint Tim Smith – lead maker and my instructor at the to set each mortise’s depth. Once drilled out with
to ensure there wasn’t any risk of slippage furniture school – we came up with a design for a straight auger, he could then taper the mortise
when it came to glue-up. a series of jigs that’d allow the joints to be made using the same jig with a Veritas tapered reamer,
three dimensionally. This meant that rather than which he’d modified. “I had two reamers, both
Frame construction creating each mortise where it should be located of which I’d cut with an angle grinder to create
These holes were drilled by hand using direction on each component – a strategy involving a huge the two mortise depths shown in my design.”
lines, drawn onto the workpieces as angle guides, amount of risk for cumulative discrepancies to A big advantage of this methodology was
and a paper template used to transfer each hole’s create poorly fitting joints – they could instead the fact the sled would ensure the reamer ran
centre point from one component to another. be made where they were actually relative to perfectly concentrically with the hole produced
The underframe was then glued up using epoxy, one another within the finished piece.” using an auger. As the mortises run into the
with the legs dry fitted to ensure the structure components at obtuse angles, simply putting
would come together while allowing the legs and Critical components the reamer into the existing hole would lead
On the baseboard, the first step was to lay out to it cutting more material from one side than
each spindle’s direction in addition to the junction the other, thus throwing off the hole centre.
where it met the surface of the component it was
mortised into. This gave Jeff an ‘XY’ position for Mortise & tenon joints & legs
each joint and from here, he was able to measure Despite all this, it took Jeff a fair amount of
off this using a homemade height gauge in order time to produce each pair of joints to give a
to reveal the desired ‘Z’ coordinate. “I had my perfect fit at the end of each spindle – for
starting position and ‘XY’ angle,” Jeff explains, example, taking the assembly apart for a test
“but I now needed a means of finding a reliable fit, ensuring the spindle wasn’t pushing apart
‘ZX’ angle to ensure the mortises at each end the coped joints, and reassembling it to then
of the spindles lined up perfectly. For this, I ream the mortise a little further. “Although
went back to Fusion where I was able to produce the methodology was devised and enabled by
models for a series of jigs – these came to be using CAD and the Shaper Origin, final fitting of
14 Legs with the practice shaped seat and back referred to as ‘bird box jigs’ within the workshop. each joint was completed by eye,” Jeff reveals.
in position, as modelled by fellow Waters and Once designed, the critical components were Having completed the mortise & tenon
Acland student, Henryk made using the Shaper Origin with the remainder joints, Jeff cut the front legs to final length
15 It’d been a slow process, but I finally completed 16 The structural heart of the chair, which 17 Test joint for the angled tapered mortising
the underframe glue-up following further shaping establishes the geometry and relationship of all jig made for the stick jointed rails. Thankfully,
and lots of tweaks and adjustments to the joint components, so getting this perfect was therefore it worked perfectly...
important. If all goes well, it’ll look just as good
when out of clamp
and machined the crater detail in the top of trammel making a shallow pass. Jeff then an indicator as to where to stop using the
the leg using a 50mm radius dished panel removed waste using a bandsaw before flush carving disc and instead switch to hand tools.
mould cutter. Doing so required using a jig trimming the remainder with a bearing guide The initial shaping was carried out using a
to clamp the leg in place, with the router positioned on the edge created by the trammel. combination of medium and fine Saburrtooth
bolted to the top of the jig. He then machined each side with a roundover carving discs fitted to an angle grinder with
cutter to different depths on each of the faces; workpiece and extractor hood clamped to a
Two separate glue-ups this gave a clear and consistent apex for the workbench. “Although feeling slightly unnerved
It was then time for the big glue-up: “This convex shaping, which was designed to be uneven when I first started using this tool – due to the
would bring together the legs, underframe with a more convex shape on the backrest’s front fact it can remove a lot of material very quickly,
and all the tapered mortise & tenons. As such, face and seat underside, thus resulting in a flatter even with a fine tooth disc fitted – I soon got
I decided to do this as two separate glue-ups seat and back. “With this formed, I marked out the knack of it and really enjoyed the process,
– the first bringing together one front and back a series of concentric circles, which were offset as very rapidly, you can see and feel the final
leg with their three turned spindle braces as from the edge on both sides. These allowed me shape beginning to emerge.” Once he’d got as
well as the underseat frame. The second glue-up to keep a consistent shape as I worked around far as he could with this tool, Jeff swapped to
brought together the other side along with the the circle with a couple of spokeshaves.” using a travisher.
mid rail that supports the chair back.” For the As the pebble shape emerged, Jeff gave this “I’d made my travisher at the start of this
first glue-up, the second side was also fitted a sand with a 120 grit disc to remove remaining project using a blade made by Ben Orford,
and clamped to ensure the full assembly’s hand tool marks as well as highlighting any subtle
geometry remained correct and nothing was discrepancies felt by rubbing a hand across the
thrown out of alignment. seat surface.
21 Four bird box-shaped 22 Dialling in the 24 Detailing on the ends of the front legs looked
drilling jigs mortising process really effective
required for the rails
25 Another homemade jig allowed me to flush 26 After flush cutting with a hand saw, the joint 27 After dimensioning the blanks to square,
cut the angle of the back legs, where they met was refined to meet the seat back’s curved face, the angled cope joint was cut on the spindle...
the seat back using a sharp block plane and pieces of abrasive
purchased from James Mursell of The Windsor spokeshave to create a subtle dishing to Armrests
Workshop. The tool body was made from maple accept the seat. This was followed by drilling The last piece of the puzzle were the armrests:
to ensure it’d be durable; the blade mortise was out bolt holes to allow for wood movement, “After making blanks, the first step was to mark
formed using a router mounted in a WoodRat, with a clearance hole in the underframe and out and cut the dished crater detail in the arm’s
with four holes drilled for the blade tines and insert nuts glued into the seat. “This meant rear end. Although it may seem counter-intuitive
their corresponding grub screws. The tool’s outer that I could easily finish the seat separately to machine this detail first, it was actually the
shape was then refined using a combination of prior to fitting.” easiest method as the blank was still square
spokeshaves and bobbin sander, before finishing Here, Jeff made another jig for cutting and therefore easy to clamp in the router jig.
with Renaissance Wax.” Being able to very quickly the back legs using a flush cut saw: the jig I knew that once the arms were shaped, the
create a tool that fitted his hands perfectly was was clamped to the seat underframe, which only way to create this feature would’ve been
a satisfying process, which resulted in a very created a reference point at the precise angle to hand carve it, and although I wasn’t averse to
pleasing and versatile tool, allowing material required; this was then adjusted for a perfect doing this, I wanted the aesthetic to be consistent
to be hogged out fairly quickly or setting for fit with a subtle curve on the backrest’s rear with the craters on top of the front legs, and
very fine cuts. face, using a piece of abrasive stuck to the this was the best method for achieving that.”
This allowed Jeff to finesse the shape of backrest with double-sided tape and a “little Next, a deep coping joint was made in the
both seat and back, judging by touch and feel, ‘70s TV car driving mime action to rotate the blank using an angled guide block to hold the
as well as allowing him to create clean, consistent seat backrest back and forth until the legs armrest at the required angle relative to the
sweeping lines around the edge of the dished met the back perfectly.” Next, a small, flat cutterblock. Jeff then made a series of templates
section. “Once complete, I removed tool marks hollow was created in the backrest support to shape as much of the arms as possible with
with an orbital sander, ensuring to stay clear of rail to provide a decent joint surface, before machines before switching to hand tools. “The
the crisp edges, which I finished by hand sanding.” drilling holes for a threaded rod and epoxy first jig created a dished bevelled face on top
Jeff then returned to the seat frame – making joint where the back would then meet the of the blank using a spindle moulder fitted with
final adjustments to the underframe with a legs and lower rail. a bearing guide and the spindle tilted forwards.
Few benefit from this functionality, so it was
therefore a luxury to have this at my disposal
when forming the armrest’s top face.” Next,
two more templates shaped the armrest’s
inner and outer profile, and from here, using
a router table, Jeff was able to cut a radius
on these blanks to form the inner roundover.
At this point, Jeff had to switch back to
hand tools – namely spokeshaves, a travisher,
carving chisels and abrasives – to form the
arm’s hollowed underside and tapered tenon
to mortise into the front leg. “I really enjoyed
forming these transitions with the sweep
28 ... before machining the crater detail into the 29 This detail was added prior to shaping, which of the flared armrest coming in to meet
arm’s reverse ensured the workpiece could be easily held in the the cylinder at either end of the arm.”
correct position
Legs & sanding
“One more bird box jig formed the front leg
mortise; due to the large amount of unsupported
length, this had to be wedged into position to
prevent the leg from vibrating or flexing as the
30 Final stages of arm shaping – a comparison between an unshaped... ... and a shaped arm. Unfortunately, the photos
don’t really do the shape justice
TURNING
IN THE FACE
OF ADVERSITY
Discovering woodturning For Chris, turning
as a way of channelling requires relying
on senses other
creativity and alleviating than sight
anxiety having lost his
sight, Chris Fisher –
otherwise known as
the Blind Woodturner
– is the UK’s only
completely blind
professional turner and
the first to be accepted
on to the RPT. We learn
more about Chris’
incredible journey and
how, for him, blindness
really presents no barrier
hris Fisher lives with his wife Nicola no experience whatsoever. How exactly, then, continuously stop the lathe, feel the piece,
FURTHER INFORMATION
www.theblindwoodturner.co.uk
www.instagram.com/blindwoodturner
www.facebook.com/blindwoodturner
Sculptural
turning
on stand
44 The
hee Woodworker
Woodw
Wo odw
woorkker
kerr & Good
Good W
Woodworking
ood
oo
o w
od woorkin
wor k g February
Feb
brua
ruary
ru ryy 202
2023
20 3 www.th
www
www.thewoodworkermag.com
w.th
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ew
ewo
woodw
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o d ork
orker
or erm
e r ag.
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g.com
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m
OFFGRID
Martin Aplin could’ve
just copied a cartographic
chest, but we persuaded
him to do something a
little more organic…
G
rids and scales, contours and inspiration for my latest project. depths: the front panel of the top drawer
colouring – maps are marvellous It would’ve been easy to simply copy is 50mm deep, and each successive drawer
things. There’s something beautiful a chart cabinet, of course, but that wasn’t increases in depth by 10mm, so that the bottom
about the way in which they capture what I wanted. Instead, I decided to create one is 100mm. This feature is underscored
the shapes and patterns of a landscape with something small and intricate; something by the decorative scale ribbons across the
their symbols and shading, and frame it with with the feel of a jewellery cabinet, say, or drawer fronts, which also increase in size.
graduated borders. The combination of the a small collector’s chest, which incorporates I decided to make these ribbons from glass
ordered and the organic is a little like cabinet- details drawn from the art and science of – see ‘A touch of glass’ – in order to create a
making, which is why ‘cartography’ seemed cartography. I also wanted to incorporate glass sharp contrast between the black and white
a significant enough style to provide sufficient and a complex pattern, so let’s get started. sections, something that I couldn’t have achieved
with timber. Also, while timber inlay would fade
Scaled-down design and bleach with age, lessening further still the
At first, I thought the cabinet was going to ribbon’s contrast, the glass won’t change.
have to hold unfolded A0-size charts, but The choice of American cherry for the cabinet
the brief allowed me to scale the piece down, was also influenced by the piece’s cartographic
sizing the six drawers so that they’d usefully theme. Not only is cherry an excellent timber for
hold A4-size documents. small cabinets but, when polished, its wavy grain
The drawers themselves are made up using pattern gives the impression of contour lines on
simple lapped joints, which are strengthened a map. The theme was interpreted more literally,
with brass pins. Dovetailed joints were eschewed of course, by the marquetry map on the cabinet’s
not because of their complexity, but so that top. This borrows some of the familiar elements
more time and effort could be channelled into and colours seen on conventional maps – sea,
decorating the cabinet. That said, the drawers sand, built-up areas, different classes of roads,
1 Mortising the cabinet sides… add some visual interest thanks to their different as well as grid squares.
2 … ready for tenons on the front rails 3 The top and bottom rails, meanwhile, were 4 … in which the tails were formed using a small
dovetailed into the sides… pull-saw…
5 … to create a neat, strong joint 7 The plinth has mitred joints, strengthened with
blocks that are glued and screwed into the corners
A TOUCH OF GLASS
I chose glass for the scale ribbons for no other reason than it’s a material I’m used to handling: I make simple leaded-glass panels, usually in Art Deco
or Art Nouveau designs, for inclusion in the frames of decorative mirrors. For the scale bars, then, I cut the glass sheet into thin strips by scoring the
glass with an oil-lubricated tungsten wheel cutter, then snapping it along the score line. The strips were then scored again to produce segments of the
required size. I used a diamond grinder to trim the pieces to the exact width and length required to fit in the drawer fronts’ and cabinet top’s routed
grooves. I used an instant-grab adhesive to fix the glass in place, as it‘ll stick just about any two materials to one another!
veneers called harewoods. Typically, edge left by the cutting knife. The map, Drawers…
harewoods are made from ash, maple which has become a very simple jigsaw Apart from their bases, which are made
and plane, and the process by which they’re puzzle of squares and grid lines, is then of cherry-veneered MDF, the drawers are
produced involves oxidising the timber rather reassembled on a 6mm MDF sub-base. made from solid cherry using simple lapped
than dyeing it, resulting in a range of silver-grey Like the cabinet sides, the top panel joints strengthened with brass pins. The
colours. If this is your first foray into veneering, was made up of two edge-jointed planks. drawer sides are grooved to accept the drawer
you’ll be able to source the materials quite Once the rebate for the map had been runners, the groove itself being hidden from
economically by buying packs of small sheets. marked out centrally – I left room for a view by the front panel. The runners themselves
Having cut all the necessary pieces, the map border of black and white glass sections are made from thin strips of cherry pinned
is made up by gluing them to a sheet of 1.5mm that represent a scale ribbon – the bulk to the side panels, and so positioned to act
ply. Once dry, the grid line positions are carefully of the waste can be removed free-hand as drawer stops, too. Once again, the glass
marked out, and used as guides to cut the map before fitting a guide fence to produce scale ribbons are set into routed grooves.
into separate squares. The lines themselves are the straight edges.
represented by black-dyed timber, laid on edge. Once the corners have been made
To make room for the thickness of grid lines, square, the marquetry panel can be glued
each piece of the map will need to be sanded into the rebate, taking care to ensure that
slightly; this will also square-up any bevelled the panel is flush with the table top. If you’re
14 I allowed for a border of glass sections 15 The top panel was attached with screws,
between marquetry panel and top panel countersunk so as to clear the drawer back panel
16 The drawer side and front panels were 17 The drawers were
routed for the drawer runners, MDF bottom constructed with simple
panels, and glass inlay half lap joints…
TIP
When routing the map rebate in the top
panel, you can prevent the router tipping into
the rebate by attaching a larger baseplate to
the router. All you need is a piece of MDF or
ply that’s drilled to match the tapped holes
on the regular baseplate
18 … and strengthened with decorative brass pins 19 The glass sections were glued into routed 20 Drawer runners were made using thin strips
grooves with builder’s epoxy of cherry glued and pinned to the side panels
… & decorations
Compass roses – the figures that show the
orientation of the cardinal points on a map or
chart – were simply drawn on white card using
draughting equipment; the coloured section in
the north point is coloured card let into the rose,
marquetry fashion. To mount the roses, I used 21 The compass roses were based on common 22 I turned some thicker acrylic windows for the
some items that are sold as ‘open box lids’, which designs and hand-drawn, although you could brass bezels…
are intended for turned boxes, and consist of always try some more marquetry
a polished brass bezel that’s a press-fit over
a steel backing plate. The protective acetate sheet supplied with the The brief set called for grids and scales, contours
lids was far too thin for my purposes, however, and colouring? Well, I think this piece has all
so I turned some new discs fromclear acrylic those, though there’s plenty of room to develop
sheet. The steel back plates were drilled and the theme further – incorporating different
screwed to the cabinet’s sides, and the brass materials, scaling up the design, or sub-dividing
bezel pressed into place. those drawers to create a collector’s cabinet.
23 … and drilled the steel back plate so 24 The compass rose acrylic window and brass
that it could be screwed to the side panels bezel, ready for fitting
ZIPIT!
Bryn Edwards exploits a natural
crack defect by incorporating a zip
wanted to make a vase, so started off by drawing myself a rough plan.
I Little did I know that once turned, there’d be a split in the piece’s neck
area. However, rather than starting again, I decided to incorporate the
crack into my plan and as such, insert a zip into the vase’s neck. Having
carried out some research, I discovered that zips can be bought in a variety of
different sizes and are available in a vast array of colours. I chose a black zip
for this design, as I wanted the natural colour of the sycamore to set it off.
If you find that your timber stock is free of shakes, you can still make
the piece using ordinary wood.
1 Start by choosing a suitable piece of hardwood 2 Before mounting your timber between centres, 3 Once you’ve found the centre, using the preferred
– I used a piece of sycamore measuring 1,500 × start by marking the ends method, mark this on both ends
100 × 100mm. You’ll also need a zip. The photo here
shows three zips, all of the same colour, but each a
little longer than the next. It’s best to establish the
vase’s shape before deciding on a specific length
4 Mount the blank on the lathe, checking you’ve 5 ... and continue to do so until the blank is round 6 Once round, true up the ends of your vase
tightened it sufficiently, then start to turn the piece
of timber...
7 Turn a spigot on the end of the piece, which will 8 You can now begin to shape the vase body. For 9 Continue shaping and refining the vase body
allow it to be mounted into the chuck. Measure my version, I decided to go with a traditional design
the spigot using a pair of Vernier callipers – mine
was 60mm, but yours might be a different size
depending on timber dimensions
10 Finally, using a scraper, further refine the shape 11 Next, mount the chuck on the lathe and place 12 Mark your chosen depth position on the drill
until you achieve the design proportions you’re the vase into it, checking that all is securely held; shank. When the blue tape comes up against the
looking for you can then drill a 25mm hole down the centre neck, you know the hole has been correctly drilled
16 Using a fine kerf saw, start to cut away the 17 Using a flex shaft tool fitted with a dentil 18 Next, mount a large faceplate with sponge
unwanted area. Once the ‘V’ is removed, move on drill-type handpiece, refine the area where the backing on the lathe, along with the vase. You can
to tidying up the split using a file and abrasives zip will be placed now turn the bottom of the piece so that it blends in
19 The next step is to turn the vase’s foot to your 20 Finally, hand sand the vase, starting with 180 21 Once sanded, apply your choice of finish –
desired shape grit abrasive and working your way up to 400 I’m using oil but you may prefer to omit this step
22 Remove the vase from the lathe and using the 23 Using CA adhesive, glue the zip in place so that 24 The competed zipped vase in sycamore
flex shaft motor as before, carve out the centre pip it corresponds with the ‘V’ cut out of the neck should look something like this
on the bottom
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The Woodworker & Good Woodworking is a hands-on magazine aimed at the home
woodworker. Its heritage, dating back over 110 years, makes it the authoritative voice
on the subject. Edited and written by enthusiasts, there is a real feel for the subject.
The Woodworker & Good Woodworking magazine presents projects and technical
advice on all aspects of woodworking, plus features, news, reviews and tests of
the new and most popular tools available.
Please visit www.mytimemedia.co.uk/terms for full terms & conditions CODE TWW2023
TECHNICAL Tormek machine models in detail: T-8 Custom
TORMEK
T-8 CUSTOM
Supplied bare, without grinding or honing wheels, the
T-8 Custom allows you to create a personalised water-cooled
sharpening system according to individual preferences
Why the Tormek T-8 Custom?
C
ustomise your own water-cooled • Sharpen all edge tools by
sharpening system with the Tormek T-8 • Choose the grinding and honing wheels adding your choice of jigs;
Custom. Create a Tormek sharpening that best suit your needs and create • Water-cooled sharpening with
system tailored to various individual a Tormek water-cooled sharpening no risk of overheating the steel;
requirements,
uirements, which contains all your favourite system that’s completely bespoke. • Exact repeatability – sharpen your
accessories.
essories. Just add a grinding wheel, honing tools with unbeatable precision;
wheel,
eel, the right jigs and your own creativity.
Thee Tormek T-8 Custom is ideal if you either
have
ve specific grinding wheel and honing • Solid zinc frame with integrated mounts
wheel
eel needs, or if you already own a number – for controllable and accurate sharpening;
of accessories and want to add another • Powerful industrial AC motor allows for
machine
chine to your collection. continuous use;
• Eight year warranty – five + three years
– when registering your new machine
online at www.tormek.com
Convenient, tool-free locking and unlocking of the grinding wheel With ACME thread and scale for precise angle setting
Guarantees controllable and accurate sharpening The base and support for all jigs. Gives unbeatable precision when sharpening
FURTHER INFORMATIO
INFORMATION
For more information on Tormek, see se
www.tormek.com
To find your nearest reseller, visit
www.tormek.com/uk/en/resellers
LETTERS
LETTER OF THE MONTH
PALLET WOOD CHRISTMAS
TREES FOR CHARITY
Hi Tegan,
I had a few quiet months, so decided to copy an idea for making Christmas
trees from old pallets. I acquired a few of these from a friend and made
a tree around 600mm tall. I added some hooks and labels, and donated
it to a local preschool. The children cut out pictures from old Christmas
cards and hung them on the tree. I enjoyed making this project, so much
so that I then made another for a different preschool. On a roll, I approached
a friend who works for a local hospice and was asked to make two more
similar to the first, and another around the 1,000mm mark. I donated
these to the hospice, and they now grace their two shop windows.
Did I mention I was on a roll...?
oll...? Three more followed; this time around
150mm high and intended d for use as Christmas
ornaments. I don’t have any ny photos of these, Ron’s pallet wo
wood Christmas trees, which he donated to a local preschool
however, but still going, I made 10 more for
the same hospice, which will be placed for
sale in their shop.
We’re told to plant a tree
ee to save
the planet – do these count, nt, I wonder?
Ron Davis
excellent magazine? I know it’s a bit unusual, but think it could possibly work. Product Ref. Length Price
All the best, Doug Nicholls CURV/8X500 500mm £32.40 INC
VAT
Hi Doug, thanks for your email. This is certainly something different as you say,
and we’re always interested to hear about ideas that are a bit ‘outside the box’.
www.trend-uk.com
In fact, how about a poetry mini series where a different one from your collection enquiry@trendm.co.uk
is published each month? Jokes, poetry – where do we go from here? We’ll feature 01923 249911
the first, ‘Our Bowl’, in the March issue. Many thanks again for reaching out.
Best wishes, Tegan
www.thewoodworkermag.com F
February
b 2023 The Woodworker & Good Woodworking 61
Gavin, Callum and Harry
IN ’ERE
best timber. The implication that veneer is – also trading as The Wood Veneer Hub – have
somehow inferior is a misnomer and veneers made their mark. You may not have heard of
have long been used as a means of getting the them, but chances are you’ve seen their veneers
best from a tree, either in revealing beautiful in the flesh or in a TV show that involves one
grain patterns or gaining maximum yield. It’s or more of the many areas outlined above.
definitely a very valid part of woodworking And if you’re anything like me, you just have
and while sheet stock is readily available to run your hand over a stunning piece of
from specialist suppliers, it can be limited timber when you see it, which in all likelihood,
to common species. would’ve been a veneer supplied by Freed.
I visited their warehouse, situated on the
Multiple uses outskirts of Leighton Buzzard, to meet up with
Look towards the high end of the market founder and owner Laurence Freed, to get the Freed HQ, the place where beautiful, rare
and spectacular timbers, grains and burrs lowdown on the company and its background. and more commonplace veneers abound!
Contemporary colours and natural timbers are If you prefer a traditional look, burl veneer is … while the more adventurous can opt for one
all part of the range stocked in all manner of species… of many composite designs
The Peel & Stick range is currently very popular To use, you simply pull the backing paper … and once on the substrate, apply pressure
and available in a decent range of species away, ready for application… with a ‘J’ roller to ensure a good bond
High class marine work is all part of Freed Veneers’ client base
www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk
used to paint a bit – not masterpieces
Timber supply
My woodpile is increasingly well stocked, but I
didn’t really want to build the thing out of black
walnut, maple or elm. It’s going to get abused,
covered in paint and all sorts of unpleasantness,
so furniture-grade wood would therefore be a
complete waste. On the other hand, I didn’t want
to build a plywood and MDF monstrosity. Time
for a cuppa and a think...
... Then I had a light bulb moment. Almost 20
years ago when we moved into our one-bedroom
flat in London, we bought a futon-type sofa bed
for the occasional guest who might pass through.
The mattress has long since fallen apart but the
wooden frame has been sat in the attic for the
past six years. Thinking that there must surely
be enough timber in a sofa bed to build an easel
with, I pulled it all out and set to work recycling it.
It was surprisingly easy to dismantle, a few well-
aimed mallet swings and the battle was over –
at least, I thought it was. In reality the enemy had
simply slipped from the battle-field leaving nasty
SOFA
at each corner. The H-frame was next.
The rebates on what had been the slats
in the sofa back slotted into rebates in
what had been the sides, to give me the
basic frame shape I was after. I glued
them in place and then nailed them in
SO GOOD
for extra security.
The centre post was formed from one
long section of sofa, which I ripped along
its length on the bandsaw to provide a
channel through which to pass the shelf
locking mechanism. I could also set a block
into it to hold the shelves at 90°.
The easel shelves were fairly simple
constructions. The lower shelf is slightly
Itching to paint again, Mike Riley reuses the frame different in as much as it has an L-shaped
from an old futon sofa bed to make himself an easel profile to provide a slightly deeper surface
2 The timber, which looks like engineered 3 Marking one piece from another 4 Detail – end of the centre post
beech, cleaned up nicely
surprises in the shape of a million nails signs of their previous life; some had rebates for a panel to sit on. I’m not sure what the
embedded in the wood behind. It took the formed on the end, some sections had various wood used for the lower shelf is, but it gave
best part of an afternoon, armed with a pair holes in, etc. I wasn’t concerned with the holes off a fine unpleasant reddish dust when put
of pliers, to remove the nails and even then – there was nothing that’d get in the way of through the bandsaw. It planed well, though
I didn’t manage to get them all. Some, the what I laughingly refer to as my design. and took an attractive finish from the iron.
pliers simply cut the heads off leaving the The shelves are moved by means of
shank embedded, while a couple just refused Four steps releasing a bolt, which runs through the
to be moved altogether. As most of the metal I broke the build down into four sections, shelf and guide-block assembly, through
work had been inserted in a uniform fashion, choosing and preparing the material from the centre post and into a threaded insert
I was able to plan my cuts around them, and so the pile as I went – these consisted of set in a clamp block located on the easel’s
pieces with the recalcitrant nails became waste. H-frame, base, shelves and the support. reverse. I made the bolts from 8mm threaded
Eventually I had a pile of stock timber. On closer The base was simple: four pieces joined by rod, which have a knob on the end, by means
examination, it appears to be a kind of engineered lap joints at each end gave me a basic footprint of a threaded insert and dome nut. I liberally
beech, engineered in as much as sections of it for the easel. I drilled the sides with a Forstner coated their inside surfaces with CA adhesive,
are made from smaller boards, which have been bit so that I could later fit a large dowel through which seems quite strong.
machined together with very fine finger joints. as a hinge between the frame and base. Once
The boards, as they were now, also showed the square base was constructed, I fitted a foot Finishing up
All that remained was the rear support,
which is simply two legs, one on either side,
that swing out and rest against the inside
of the base to hold up the front. Once the
supports were in place, I could move on
to the assembly phase.
The finished easel is quite stable and
sturdy and I’m pleased that the sofa bed
has been given a new lease of life rather
than ending its days in a landfill. Having
never had an easel before I’m looking
forward to trying it out, though I have to
win it back first from the boy who’s decided
that it’s better than the easel I made him a
5 Red dust from the mystery timber 6 The shelves are held by my bolt and block few years ago. His has a blackboard surface,
assembly, the dome nut held captive by lots however, so perhaps I should just give him
of CA adhesive my oils and take up the chalks instead!
Q Could you give me some tips on what type of brush is best for
finishing, please? I’m building some hardwood furniture and would
like to use a clear acrylic varnish, probably satin, rather than polyurethane,
but could do with a few pointers.
P Bates, Ascot
Q&A
FLATBIT OR
FORSTNER?
Q As I have various hardwood offcuts in the workshop, I’d like to use
them to make tealight and candle holders. These are likely to be about
45mm thick, but I’m not sure what sort of drill bit is best for boring the
holes, which need to be as neat as possible.
C Clements, Norwich
SPRING PROJECT:
NEST BOXES
TWO FOR
THE
BIRDS
Takes:
Half a day
Tools you’ll need:
Hand tools, jigsaw,
sander, cordless drill,
drillstand. Optional:
router, mitre saw
for shaping the corners and if you plan to make This sparrow box measures 520mm long
Phil Davy’s simple several nest boxes, then a mitre saw will save and 245mm high at the back – before adding
tit and sparrow boxes you loads of time. Although it may be tempting, the roof – which is angled at 70°. Like the
are a win-win all round: don’t add a perch; birds don’t actually need them.
For easier access you could hinge the lid, though
blue tit box, all softwood is 20mm thick.
the birds will love them you should only need to remove this once a year Box positioning
and they’re very easy to clean out the box. A couple of narrow strips With the seasons becoming less predictable
of wood glued inside will help young to reach than ever, it’s hard to know exactly when’s
to construct the entrance/exit hole on their first expedition the best time to position a nest box, although
With several species of our native bird population into the new world. the RSPB suggests autumn. Birds tend to check
in decline, most of us will want to do what we out potential homes in autumn and winter, while
can to help reverse the situation. A simple nesting Terraced housing blue tits choose February or even March for
box is probably the most basic woodwork project, Sparrows are a lot more sociable than raising their young. It’s unlikely potential visitors
but will be appreciated by anyone who has a soft most garden birds and like to nest in colonies. will take to a new box immediately, so fixing one
spot for our feathered friends. It’s a good way Terraced boxes with space for several residents in place now will give birds a chance to get used
to use up softwood offcuts, but do avoid using are popular and easy to make, with internal to it. Don’t expect it to have residents in the first
pressure-treated timber. Alternatively you dividers creating individual nest spaces with few months, or even a year, however. The nest
could use exterior plywood, though obviously separate entrance holes. Don’t worry too much box I originally built remained empty for nine
not MDF or any material intended for interior use. about grain direction on adjacent pieces here, months or more and had its first tentative
This is a real hammer and nails job, with a spot though if this were furniture it‘d be a different visitors in early January.
of PVA here and there. You don’t really need any matter. Nest boxes will be at the mercy of the For more information on nest box hole
power tools, apart from a drill. A jigsaw is handy elements, so occasional splits are inevitable. sizes and positioning, visit www.rspb.org.
NEST BOX
1 Mark out the front and back sections using 2 Cut front, rear and side pieces to size with a 3 Front and back are tapered towards the bottom;
a combination square; the roof is pitched at 45° fine-toothed hand saw or mitre saw mark and cut with a jigsaw, then clean up with
a plane
4 Cramp front and back together and trim upper 5 The blue tit box entrance hole should be 25mm 6 Glue and pin the front to the sides, followed by the
edges with a bench plane, checking for square diameter; mark the centre and drill with a flatbit back; pre-drill nail holes to prevent wood splitting
7 Trim lower edges flush with a plane, working 8 Draw around a coin to form curved corners on 9 Clean up curves with a sanding drum in a
in from the ends towards the middle to avoid the roof sections; carefully cut with a jigsaw drillstand or abrasive block. Repeat for front
breakout corners of the base
10 Glue and pin roof sections together at 90°; 11 The base’s upper edges are chamfered at 30°; 12 Form a keyhole slot for the screw in the back
make the joint slightly proud and plane flush mark with a gauge and plane to the lines by drilling 10mm and 5mm holes, 10mm apart;
when dry join up with a jigsaw
13 Profile the box’s front vertical edges with a router 14 Punch all nail holes below the surface and 15 Glue and nail the box base in place, checking
fitted with a bearing-guided rounding-over cutter apply exterior filler; drill a couple of drainage holes that the overhang on each side is identical; rear
in the base edges should be flush
16 Sand the box and roof section, then remove 17 Drill roof holes and fix to the box with 40mm 18 Brush on two coats of suitable exterior water-
arrises; add internal strips before fixing the roof screws; the rear edge is flush with the box’s reverse based finish, but leave the inside surfaces bare
SPARROW BOX
1 Cut the ends and internal dividers to length using 2 Saw front and rear panels to size, then, using a 3 Glue front, rear and end sections together and
a mitre saw; top edges are angled at 70° bench plane, bevel the top edge of both pieces to cramp; add nails, pre-drilling the holes to stop splits
match the ends
4 Check internal dividers slide into the box; these 5 Cut the bottom to size for a snug fit inside the 6 Mark centres and bore 32mm holes with a flatbit,
can be glued and pinned at any stage box; glue and pin, punching nails below the surface remembering to cramp the offcut underneath
7 When the glue has dried, trim ends flush with a 8 To soften edges, rout with a rounding-over or 9 Drill holes in the back and saw to form keyhole
plane; note one entry hole is at the end of the box chamfer bit; fill nail holes and sand the box slots; you’ll need 5mm screws for this due to the
box’s weight
10 Check top edges are flush, trimming with a 11 Cut the top to size and round front corners; drill 12 Choose your location and fix the sparrow box
finely-set plane if necessary; tidy up internal arrises and screw to the box, checking the overhang is equal high up on a wall, preferably under the eaves
JESSICA’S
BED
Tasked with building a ‘grown up’ bed for his young granddaughter,
David Long had to maximise available space as well as incorporating
integrated storage boxes that would fit neatly underneath
aving recently celebrated her the head and footboard width were set at TIME TAKEN & COST
CUTTING LIST
Sort Quantity Description Length (L) Width (W) Thickness (T) Material Notes
1 2 Head leg 780 94 20 Softwood
2 1 Headboard fill 672 430 20 Softwood
3 2 Foot leg 530 94 20 Softwood
4 1 Footboard fill 672 515 20 Softwood
5 2 Head/tailboard top shape 860 59 20 Softwood Longer as these top the
legs as well as the infill
6 2 Frame side 2,000 180 20 Softwood
7 2 Slat support 2,000 40 30 Softwood
8 3 Drawer front 650 310 12 12mm ply
9 3 Storage back 526 263 12 12mm ply
10 3 Storage base 800 550 12 12mm ply
11 6 Storage side 800 263 12 12mm ply
12 6 Castor holder 800 40 20 Softwood
3 Wheel packs Screwfix 65240 £7.50
1 IKEA MALFORS mattress 2,000 800 120 £80
1 Slat rail 2,000 800 40 £15
Please note that all dimensions are in millimetres
Design I referenced a photo of the cot bed and I use the ‘Optimik’ sheet material program
As is my usual approach, I created a 3D design adjusted the sketchUp arc and circle tools to get the best component layout on a sheet
in SketchUp (Figs.1 & 2), using separate layers until I got somewhere close. I then overlaid and the timber yard accepts this and cuts
for the main topics – headboard, footboard, a 50mm grid on this section and printed it the components at no extra cost. Once home,
frame, drawers, etc. With design constraints full-size, so it could be used as a template. I converted the whitewood cutting list into
sorted and the mattress/slat combination lengths of 2.4m, then marked and cut the
chosen – as this influenced the side rail Materials component parts so that the best wood
widths and positioning – the design was To keep costs down, the bed was constructed was used in the most visible parts – top of
fairly straightforward as it uses rectangles. from local – independent – timber yard the headboard and tailboard. All the timber
I imported the 40mm wheel design as a whitewood, planed to 25mm, at a standard was then left in a bedroom for a few weeks
model from the 3D warehouse. In order to 94mm width, except for the side rails at to stabilise (photo 1), before being lightly
create the curves for the head/footboard, 180mm and 12mm ply for the storage unit. planed back to flat and a finished thickness
of 23mm. The only hardware needed were
4 × M6 × 20mm dowel nuts and 75mm bolts
– to fit the side rails to the ends – and four
sets of 40mm castors for the storage units.
3 Marking Domino positions for the leg 4 Tight Domino mortises in the panel 5 Draw dowel fitting the breadboard legs
with the Domino pin registered gives (photo 6). Once done, the top Domino and 7mm bolt hole (photo 10) and two Domino
an exact alignment, unlike biscuits. When top of the leg were glued, with dowels, then slots (photo 11). The bottom slot is tight to
jointing the panel boards, subsequent fitted and glued into the panel to retain the tight – the reference one – and the top slot tight
mortises could utilise the loose setting leg, but allowing the panel to move as needed to loose – to allow easier assembly while still
to make assembly easier as the alignment (photo 7). The remaining three Dominos preventing twist. This is a straightforward task
stays registered by the first tight joint. weren’t glued into the leg. once clearly marked and the reference defined
With the headboard panel glued and The final headboard top was then Dominoed – position for the bottom of the side rail.
trimmed to size, the legs needed to be to the top of the legs and panel (photo 8) and
fitted. I was concerned that the solid wood the shape marked from the template (photo 9), Side rail fittings
panel would move, so attached the legs cut with a jigsaw and trimmed with a router The side rails are just straight pieces of timber
using the breadboard technique normally bearing-guided cutter. I only just got away that require a 10mm diameter hole to be drilled
employed on dining tables – I found the with positioning the Domino above the leg, for the dowel nut, a 7mm hole for the bolt from
Domino method on a YouTube video. First, as the curve came very close to exposing it. the end that accurately meets this, and Domino
the Domino positions were marked and cut The final work on the ends is to drill a slots aligned to those in the legs. For the nut and
in the panel using the ‘tight’ setting (photo 3).
The top Domino in the leg was also cut tight
(photo 4) – referenced from the top of the
leg, which is flush with the top of the panel
at this point; this formed the ‘lock’ and was
ultimately glued. The next two leg mortises
were cut on the loose setting and the final
lower one on the widest setting. The Dominos
were glued into the panel but not the leg,
then dry assembled. Blind draw dowel holes
were then drilled (photo 5), the leg removed
and dowel holes in the Dominos elongated 6 Dowel holes enlarged for movement 7 Leg mortises cut wider for movement
8 Top board fitted to headboard 9 Top shape template from 1:1 printout 10 Drilling template for the leg bolt hole
11 Side rail Domino locations in leg 12 Jig for the side rail, dowel nut fitting 13 Dry fit of frame – it fitted first time!
14 Dominos for the storage box front 15 Glue-up of box frame 16 View of wheels from base box underside
bolt holes, I created a simple jig from scrap 63 The hole for the dowel nut is 10mm diameter on side rails. I opted for 40mm wheels with
× 38mm CLS timber and a piece of ply with a 90° and needs to be deep enough so that the a threaded fitting into ’T’ nuts (photo 17),
angle (photo 12). Using a pillar drill and 7mm bit, centre is aligned with the bolt centre. In my as I thought this gave more scope for height
an accurate hole was drilled, which was centred case, the timber thickness was 23mm and adjustment. I did make an error in the SketchUp
so that it was exactly half the side rail’s thickness. the dowel nut 20mm, so the centre needed design – the side rails are 50mm wide, but the
This was then screwed to the ply such that the tobe at 11.5mm with a hole drilled to a depth wheel swivel isn’t centred, so the actual centre
ply edge could reference the bottom of the rail. of 21.5mm. Don’t buy a 25mm dowel nut for of the ’T’ nut is 40mm from the edge, not 25mm.
For the other end, in order to keep the same face 25mm timber unless you want to drill right With the drawers assembled, it was then just
reference, I just unscrewed the jig and reversed it. through and have it exposed. Finally, the timber a case of sanding, varnishing and delivering the
Due to the CLS’ thickness, this gives the support for the slats is screwed on – its position bed to one very happy four-year-old who still, two
accuracy required to guide the drill bit – I used a such that the mattress, when placed on the months later, has to show it to visitors, telling
Colt 7mm pen drill, which was the length required. slats, ends up 40mm higher than the side rail. them how she doesn’t like it, she loves it!
19 In situ with slats in place... 20 ... and with mattress fitted 21 Headboard detail
THE ORIGINAL & BEST SINCE 1901 THE ORIGINAL & BEST SINCE 1901
THE ORIGINAL & BEST SINCE 1901 THE
HE
E ORIGINAL
O & BEST SINCE 1901
THE POWER
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OF THREE
MEET THE ELEGANT &
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FUNCTIONAL PITCH
1 OF 3 MPOWER SBS TRIPLE DIAMOND
STONE SHARPENING STATIONS
& 1 OF 2 ROBERT SORBY
MICRO RESIN PEN TURNING SETS
cr
creative design
with strongg & making influenced Router-made This
Th
hi simple project,
hi
sh
shapes by
& bold formsthe work & philosophy blanket box w
which contains a
of Alan Peters OBE in kiln-dried hidden
hi surprise, is
English oak guaranteed
g to hit
aall the right notes
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BISCUIT JOINTER KITS
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ERCC S IN LASER-GUIDED HOLLOWING www.thewoodworkermag.com
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Rate will step up to £11.00 quarterly on DD or CCC thereafter.
Spindle basics TURNING
GETTING BACK TO
(SPINDLE)
BASICS
New to turning or need a bit of a refresher in terms of spindle
turning tools and their uses? Great news if so as Les Thorne
gets back to basics and covers each tool in detail
I once heard a woodturning club member commenting on why some vases that aren’t particularly taxing, but do contain all elements of the
demonstrators feel the need to take an audience back to basics, remarking simple shapes, and also importantly, a margin for error. I see a lot of
that beads and coves just didn’t interest him. That’s a thought-provoking work both here and abroad which is turned very well, and I’m sure that
statement as there’s very little woodturning that doesn’t contain convex the method to produce them varies hugely. I can remember seeing some
and concave shapes. fantastic work from a turner over a period of years and I always admired
Practice makes perfect is a saying that’s often bandied about and his form and finish. I jumped at the chance to see him demonstrate and
obviously this is true, but when it comes to turning, good practice is what’s was absolutely amazed at how he turned; it was the polar opposite to
important. I like my students to produce projects while perfecting their the way in which I would’ve done it! I may have been able to produce
tooling techniques rather than just creating endless shapes. the items more quickly, but they weren’t necessarily better. Overleaf
There’s simple projects, such as dibbers, foot massagers and bud we’ll take a look at each of the commonly-used spindle turning tools.
1 Like most tools, they come in many sizes with the majority being forged versions, which can be expensive. 3 The angle is around 40° although the majority
Ideally, this tool shouldn’t be used on faceplate work, such as bowls of spindle roughing gouges have an angle higher
than that; this diminishes its cutting effectiveness
4 The tool is presented to the wood with the right 5 I like to present the tool at right angles and use 6 Using the centre for initial cutting allows the
hand down and the handle tucked into the body the centre to turn away the timber’s square corners tool’s wings to remain sharp. You can now utilise
these for the finishing cuts
5 The tool is ground to an angle of around 20°; this 6 I‘ve sprayed a piece of pine black to make it easier 7 The stance used is normal for most of the tools.
will allow it to easily slice through the timber’s fibres to see the cuts made. I’ve marked the area that’ll be The left hand is generally over the tool, which creates
cut in from square to round a tunnel for it to be rotated in
8 The tool is presented with the left-hand bevel 9 If you repeat the process, working the tool slightly 10 You can see that I’m now shaping the left-hand
at right angles to the work and the longer point to the right each time, you should create a square side into a curve with a slicing cut through the
downwards. Lift the handle to slice into the wood pommel on the left timber’s end-grain
11 If used correctly, you’ll only cut using the tool’s 12 A perfect pommel – the curve will need very 13 The spindle roughing gouge won’t leave a great
point. If you start to see dust appear on the skew’s little sanding as the finish off the skew is so good. finish, especially on pine. The skew is now presented
bevel, you’re very close to having a catch The stock to the right is removed down to round with its centre cutting and bevel rubbing
using the spindle roughing gouge
14 Here you can see the quality of cut achieved 15 One little tip when carrying out a planing cut is 16 The skew chisel is most famously regarded as
using the skew compared to the spindle roughing to control the tool by sliding your little finger along a shaping tool, especially when it comes to turning
gouge. The only time this cut won’t work is on the toolrest; this controls the depth and direction beads. Here I’ve cut a one-sided ‘V’ to mark out the
really hard, dense woods of cut bead’s position
17 I like to remove a little off the bead’s edge before 18 I like to turn the main shape in one pass; this’ll 19 The perfect bead. The black line at the top shows
shaping it. I position the skew more to one side and generally give you the best opportunity for a good that I haven’t changed the diameter. A bead should
using the long point, just slice off the edge shape. Moving your body round as the tool advances look as if the wood’s been parted and the bead
helps to avoid catches simply inserted
20 The round skew has a few advantages: it’ll 21 The other benefit of the 10mm skew is that 1 Spindle gouges are available in all manner of sizes:
make a ‘V’ just as you can with the ordinary you can cut spigots and tenons much quicker in the far one is a forged version whereas most modern
version, although I also find it easier to sharpen comparison to a parting tool ones are manufactured from round bar with a flute
milled out
2 Set the grinder platform so that the tool’s bevel 3 Rotate the tool against the grindstone. As you 4 If you find sharpening difficult to master and believe
is a perfect match onto the wheel. On my grinder, near the side, slide the tool up the wheel, as shown it’s not easy to learn, then one of the many available
I’ve cut the platform away; this allows me to better here; this will put the required fingernail profile on grinding jigs will provide you with a good repeatable
position my hands the tool shape and sharpness
8 You must keep your right hand low throughout 9 Cutting a bead with the gouge is very similar to 10 To round over the spindle’s end, start with the
the cut; this will allow the bevel to rub. If you’re not cutting one with a skew, but due to the bevel angle, bevel on the wood in a position where the tool will
achieving a good finish, it’s often because the tool this won’t give you a narrow cut to the side start cutting, with the minimum required movement
is held too horizontal
11 As the tool makes its way through the shape, 12 The spindle gouge excels at cleaning across 13 Hollowing egg cups, boxes, etc. is best carried
you’ll need to lift the handle as the wood gets smaller end-grain. As you can see, the bevel is positioned out using the spindle gouge. The pencil shows the
in diameter; this ensures the bevel is kept in contact according to the cutting angle I want to achieve 11 o’clock position of the tool’s flute
with the wood
14 Once the gouge has drilled a small hole in the 15 As the hole gets deeper, you’ll need to close the 16 If you decrease the depth of cut as you near the
centre, it’s pivoted out by moving the handle away flute off slightly as you come up the hollowed area’s finished shape, a pretty good finish can be achieved.
from the body side. The pencil is now telling me it’s at 10 o’clock The denser the wood, the better the results you can
expect to achieve
ALL
CHANGE
Peter Scaife gives his
advice on making the
best of what you’ve got
’m not a magician: no top hat, no
3 The bookcase – really useful now it’s shorter and not just for books
From cathedral to cabinet three-ply. I inherited this piece from my however, it was twice this width, another
Let’s start with the cabinet shown on the grandmother who bought it at auction. I 18in higher, and empty of any interior
previous page (photo 1), in solid English oak, believe it started life as a vestment cupboard fittings except for a metal hanging rail;
except for the panels, which are oak-faced in Exeter Cathedral. When it came to me, very heavy and far too big for a small modern
house. And the two panelled doors, which
you can see, were originally side-by-side,
forming the top parts of two long doors.
With a soft-headed mallet, I knocked
it apart, cut some joints and glued it back
together. Some of the left-over ply from
the lower part of the doors was used to
make shelves (photo 2). Honestly, it’s
not that difficult.
scrap mahogany – never throw those odds 15in square, supported on turned spindle Sadly, it obviously fell apart. I can’t
and ends away – for the drawer surrounds legs, beautifully polished and very elegant. remember for certain what happened
and fronts. And the backboard – let’s be a If you’d saw it up, she said, we’d have three to the various bits, but let’s just say that,
bit classy and call it a pediment – is American nice little coffee tables. I did. And we didn’t. in those days, we had open fires.
cherry – from Thorogood’s in Ardleigh, Essex
– and it’s a beautiful timber to work.
Smaller is better
I helped a friend to move house, the desk
shown in photo 4 was left over, and he gave it
to me. It was just too long for where I wanted
it to be placed, so there was only one solution:
after removing the fake leather top and checking
the grain direction, I made two saw cuts across
the middle, about 380mm apart, closing the gap
by bringing the two sawn edges together and
reusing the timber, screwing it to the underside.
Yes, you can see the join in the walnut cross-
banding (photo 5), but it’s nothing to worry about.
Bigger is better
The kitchen table in photo 6 has a black-and-
white check plastic top, which, with a growing
family, was proving a little on the small side.
So, with some beech-faced ply and four battens
screwed to the underside, we gained about
another 3sq.ft (photo 7). Useful and worth it.
A whatnot warning
So far, so good, but I did make one serious
mistake and, in my defence, I claim teenage
ignorance. My mother had a Victorian mahogany
whatnot: four shelves above each other, about 7 ... which provided more space for a growing family
Coming up
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5
This month’s selection includes a sideboard that showcases
the maker’s hard work and skill in addition to a classic piece
TAKE by woodturner Pat Carroll, who demonstrated at the recently
held North of England Woodworking & Power Tool Show
1 2
3 4
‘1988’ sideboard in European oak by Waters & Acland Furniture School – @watersandacland
1 – alumni Sam Attard – @samuelattardfurniture so named owing to the number of router 5
passes taken to complete the doors’ patterning
Slim custom briefcase, by @jmlmodern – made for a gemsmith to house and show off
2 gemstones. Note the four-way bookmatch on the lace redwood burl, which happens to
be one of the maker’s favourite design aspects
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