47

66. 251DOHC, AQ171.

IMPORTANT! Use the center bolt of the crankshaft

to turn the crankshaft so that the markings

on the toothed belt lines up with the markings

of the camshaft gears and that of the

crankshaft as follows: 2 yellow lines against

the crankshaft marking (behind the pulley) and

1 line against each of the markings of the camshaft

gear. The marking of the pulley should

line up with 0° on the timing gear casing.

67. 251DOHC, AQ171. Loosen the Allen-head bolt

and turn the belt tensioning device in order to slacken

the belt tension. Allen head key 8 mm. Remove

the belt.

IMPORTANT! Do not turn the crankshaft or

the camshaft while the toothed belt is removed.

The pistons can hit the valves!

68. 230, 250, AQ131, AQ151. Bring the engine to

TDC as under paragr. 66. Then ease off the nut of

the belt tensioning roller. Tool width: 17 mm. Pull the

belt and insert a 3 mm drill in the hole of the tensioning

device. Then remove the belt.

NOTE! Do not turn either the crankshaft or the camshaft

while the belt is removed. The pistons can hit

the valves!

69. 251DOHC, AQ171. Remove the protective cover

for the spark plugs and remove the leads from the

spark plugs.

70. 251DOHC, AQ171. Remove the distributor. Tool

width 10 mm. Pull the distributor off straight backwards.

NOTE! Take care of the guide bushing (1).

71. Remove the thermostat housing and the thermostat.

Tool width: 10 mm.

48

4D Cooling System

Overhauling the heat exchanger

72. Remove the front part of the heat exchanger. Allen-

key: 5 mm.

73. 250, AQ151. Remove the rubber gasket (1), the

pressure pad (2) and the hard rubber pad (3).

74. The only difference between the models 250,

251DOHC, AQ151, AQ171 is that the rubber pads on

250, AQ 151 have been replaced by a tension plate

(1) on model 251DOHC, AQ171. Otherwise the

same reconditioning method as for the heat exchanger

applies.

75. Lift out the cooling element and the insulating

rubber mat from the housing. Pull the cooling element

straight upwards. If necessary use a screwdriver

to pry carefully. Clean all parts thoroughly.

76. Remove the strainer housing and the tube connection

from the heat exchanger housing. Tool

width: 10 mm.

77. Install new O-rings (1) on the strainer housing

and on the tube connection and install them on the

heat exchanger housing. Tool width: 10 mm.

49

78. Insert the rubber mat in the heat exchanger

housing.

79. Put new seal rings on the cooling element.

Lubricate the seal rings with oil to facilitate the

installation of the element in the housing.

80. Center the cooling element carefully in the heat

exchanger housing and push it home. Make sure that

the rubber mat is properly clamped into its position.

81. Put the pressure pad, the hard rubber pad and

the rubber gasket on the heat exchanger housing.

82. Install the cover and tighten the screws in a

criss-cross pattern, a little at the time.

NOTE! The cover will be pressed down approximately

5 mm (0.25"). Allen key: 4 mm.

The sea water pump

83. Remove the cover on the sea water pump and

use pliers to pull out the impeller. Take care of the

key. Push out the seal ring. Install a new seal ring.

Turn the seal lip facing the impeller. Grease the seal

ring abundantly and carefully push the shaft into the

seal ring. Insert the key and install a new impeller.

Install the cover with a new gasket.

The thermostat

84. When necessary check the opening temperature

of the thermostat by lowering it into warm water. It

should begin opening at a temperature of 82°C

(180°F). Can be fully open at 92°C (198°F). Check

to make sure that the rubber seal is in good condition.

50

85. Remove the cylinder head. Tool width = 14 mm.

Remove the bolts in the sequence shown in the picture.

IMPORTANT! In order to avoid scratching the

cylinder head it should be placed on wooden

blocks.

86. Remove the cylinder head gasket.

87. Remove the camshaft gear. Tool width: 17 mm.

Use counterhold part no 9995034-7.

NOTE! Remove the washer behind the gear wheel.

88. Remove the middle camshaft cap. Tool width:

1/2".

89. Install special tool part no 9995021-4 on the

camshaft. Use the cap nut. The tool is keeping tension

on the camshaft. Remove the remaining 4 camshaft

caps.

90. Remove the sealing (1) from the camshaft as

well as the plug in the opposite end. Back off the

special tool, releasing the camshaft. Remove the

special tool and the camshaft.

4E Overhauling the valve system

230, 250, AQ131, AQ151

51

91. Remove the valve tappets and keep them in the

same sequence as in the cylinder head.

92. Remove the rubber seal from the valve stems.

93. Use valve spring compressor part no 9986052-0

to compress the valve springs.

94. Remove the valve locks, retainers springs, the

lower washers (exhaust) and the valves.

NOTE! Make sure not to mix the parts!

95. Remove the valve seals from the guides of the

intake valves. Use a pair of pliers. Then remove the

lower washer (intake).

96. Clean the cylinder head and sealing surface.

Use a metal ruler and feeler gauge. The warp must

not exceed 0.5 mm (0.0197") lengthwise and 0.25

mm (0.0098") diagonally.
IMPORTANT! The cylinder head cannot be

machined if the warp is greater than 1.00 mm

(0.394") lengthwise or 0.5 mm (0.0197") diagonally.

Cylinder head height, new ...... 146.1 mm (5.75197")

Cylinder head height, min after

reworking ............................... 145.6 mm (5.73228")

Reworking, totally = 0.5 mm (0.01969")

97. Clean the valve seats with a cutter. Remove carbon

deposits from combustion chambers and the

valves. The valve seats must not show signs of being

cracked nor any other type of damage. Should

this be the case, they must be replaced.

52

98. Check the wear of the valve guides. Use new

valves and push up the valve 1–2 mm (0.03928–

0.07874") with the finger while the measurement is

taken. Clearance with a new valve and new valve

guide, intake: 0.030–0.060 mm (0.00118–0.002362")

and exhaust: 0.040–0.070 mm (0.0016–0.0028").

Maximum allowed clearance measured with new

valve and old valve guide is 0.15 mm (0.005906") for

intake as well as for exhaust.

Changing the valve guide

99. Heat the cylinder head in water to a temperature

of 100°C (212°F) ± 10°C. Use a drift (part no

9995218-6) to press out the valve guides. Press the

valve guides in the direction of the combustion

chamber. Check to make sure that the valve guide

has not been subject to seizing.

100. Valve guides in the standard size are available

as spare parts.
101. Press in new valve guides. The cylinder head

should be at room temperature. Use drift part no

9995027-1 for the intake and part no 9995028-9 for

the exhaust. Press the valve guides till the drift

touches the cylinder head. This gives the valve

guide the correct height.

IMPORTANT! The pressing force must be at

least 9000 N (900 kp) (2016 lbf). Should the

pressing force fall short the valve guide must

be removed again.

102. Clean the valve guide internally. Use reamer

part no 9995224-4. Reamer part no 9995164 can

also be used.

NOTE! The valve and the seat must be lapped together

after the valve guide has been replaced.

53

The valve seat

103.

IMPORTANT! Always replace the valve guides

prior to removing the valve seat.

Grind two recesses in the old valve seat ring. These

recesses will reduce the tension in the seat ring.

Then grind a cut in the seat ring (in order to provide

a hold for the chisel) Make sure not to damage the

cylinder head!

105. Knock out the valve seat with a long drift

through intake port the cylinder head.

106. Check the position of the valve seat. Should the

seat location be damaged, it has to be reamed

(milled) to the closest oversize. Then measure the

valve seat diameter. Use an internal micrometer.

104. Crack the valve seat with a chisel. Use the

chisel with extreme caution.

54

107. Find a valve seat with the correct dimension.

The valve seats are not marked but have to be

measured. The valve seats must be 0.17 mm

(0.00669") bigger than the cylinder head location.

Should the grip fit be less than 0.17 mm (0.00669")

the seat location must be reamed to the closest

oversize. Use a valve seat cutter.

Valve seat, diameter: Intake: Exhaust:

Standard, mm 46.00 38.00

(inches) (1.811") (1.496")

Oversize 2, mm 46.50 38.50

(inches) (1.83") (1.5157")

109.

IMPORTANT! The exhaust valves are ‘Stellite’-

coated and must not be reworked! They must

only be lapped to seal against the valve seat

using grinding compound. In case they are reworked,

the ‘Stellite’ coating is removed and

thus the valves lose part of their heat protection.

108. Heat the cylinder head in water to a temperature

of approx. 100°C (212°F). Put the new valve

seat on installation drift part no 9995029-7 (for the

intake seat) and part no 9995220-2 (for the exhaust

seat). Cool the valve seat to a temperature of –70°C

(–94°F) by using carbon dioxide snow (dry ice) or its

equivalent. Use protective gloves! Install the valve

seat in the cylinder head. This sequence must be

done quickly and at least within 3 to 4 seconds.

This depends on the fact that the components must

have their predetermined temperature at the time of

assembly. Then check the fit of the seat. The seat

should be fully home and held in position. Should the

seat not be held in position, a seat with bigger dimensions

must be installed.

NOTE! After having replaced the seat it must be

milled and the valve lapped to seal.

110. Mill or ream the valve seats. The same angle

for intake as for exhaust. The valve seat width, see

the picture. Check the contact pattern of the valves

against the seats. If necessary use grinding compound

to grind the valves against the seats.

Intake Exhaust

111. Put the camshaft in the cylinder head. Install

the rear cap. Move the camshaft to and fro. The

clearance should be 0.1–0.4 mm (0.00394–0.0157").

Measure the clearance with a feeler gauge. In case

the clearance is too big, the cap must be replaced.

Measure the clearance again. When the correct

clearance has been obtained, remove the camshaft.

Stellite

(0.051–0.075") (0.067–0.091")

55

112. Check the valve springs in a spring tester.

Length, unloaded ............................... 45 mm (1.77")

loaded 305±20N (67.2±4.48 lbf.) ....... 38 mm (1.50")

loaded 765±40N (170±8.96 lbf.) ........ 27 mm (1.06")

113. Check the valve tappets for scratches and

other visible damage.

114. Check that the valves and valve seats are

lapped perfectly by coating the chamfer of the valve

discs with marking dye and then rotating them with

light pressure against the valve seats. If the marking

dye is not evenly distributed on the whole chamfered

surface of the valve seat (the valve does not seat)

the valve must be reground and checked until a

completely satisfactory result has been obtained.

115. Check that the clearance of the adjustment

washer in the valve tappet is not too big. If there are

wear marks on the flat surface, it should be replaced.

The clearance between the adjustment

washer and the valve tappet should be 0.009–0.068

mm (0.000354–0.00268")

116. Place the valve tappets in the cylinder head

and check that the clearance is not too big or that

they seize.

NOTE! Do not mix the tappets. Put them in the

same position as prior to the check. Clearance:

valve tappet – cylinder head: 0.030–0.075 mm

(0.001118–0.002953")

56

Assembling the cylinder head

117. Check to make sure that the distance between

the valve lock and end of the valve stem is at least

3.5 mm (0.1378").

118. Place the valve spring seal in the cylinder

head. Oil and install the valve. Install the seal. Only

the intake valves have a valve stem seal!

119. Install:

1. The valve spring.

2. The valve spring retainer.

3. The valve lock.

4. The rubber seal.

Use a valve spring compressor. Then install the

spark plugs.

NOTE! Make sure that the spark plug thread enters

properly in order not to damage the cylinder head

thread. Tightening torque: 25–30 Nm (2.5–3.0 kpm/

18–22 ft.lbs).

120. Oil and install the valve tappets along with the

adjustment washers and in the same location as

earlier.

121. Oil the bearing halves, the camshaft lobes, the

valve tappets and the adjustment washers and insert

the camshaft. The guide pin for the toothed belt

wheel should be turned facing upwards.

122. Coat the sealing surface of the rear camshaft

bearing cap against the cylinder head with a gasket

compound. Put the rear bearing cap (the axial bearing)

and the rubber sealing in its location. Install the

2 nuts but without tightening them.

57

123. Install special tool part no 9995021-4 and press

down the camshaft.

124. Lubricate the rubber lip of the camshaft sealing

and install it on the camshaft. Make sure not to damage

the rubber lip by the edge of the camshaft during

the assembly.

NOTE! Install the sealing ring so that a new sealing

surface against the camshaft is obtained.

125. Oil and install the remaining 3 bearing caps. Install

the nuts but without tightening them.

NOTE! Coat the contact surface of the front bearing

cap against the cylinder head with a gasket compound.

Make sure that the sealing is properly

aligned prior to the tightening of the front bearing

cap. Then remove the special tool.

126. Oil and tighten the last bearing cap. Now tighten

all the nuts with a torque wrench. Tightening

torque: 20 Nm (2.0 kpm/15 ft.lbs).

127. Install the camshaft gear wheel and the spacer

washer. Use counterhold part no 9995034-7.

Tightening torque: 50 Nm (5.0 kpm/36 ft.lbs).

128. Check the belt tensioning device. The bearing

should be free from play. Should the contact surface

of the roller be damaged, the roller and the toothed

belt must be replaced.

Compress the spring and lock it with a 3 mm drill

and then install the belt tensioning device on the cylinder

block.

58

132.

IMPORTANT! Do not turn either the crankshaft

for the camshaft. The pistons can now

hit the valves!

Replace the cylinder head bolts in case they show

signs of elongation. If a bolt is elongated or not can

be determined by checking the ‘waist’ of the bolt. If

the bolt is elongated the waist of the bolt is

stretched. It is allowed to re-use the bolts a maximum

of 5 times. In case of uncertainty, always replace

the bolts with new ones.

129. Set the piston for cylinder no 1 at T.D.C. Check

to make sure that the contact surface of the engine

block is properly cleaned and install a new cylinder

head gasket

130. Set the camshaft in position T.D.C. for cylinder

no 1.

131. Install the cylinder head.

133. Oil the threads of the cylinder head bolts and

install them. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence

and in 3 steps.

1 = 20 Nm (2.0 kpm/15 ft.lbs)

2 = 40 Nm (4.0 kpm/30 ft.lbs)

3 = angle tightening 120°.

59

Adjusting the valves 230, 250,

AQ131, AQ151

134. Measure the valve clearance for the number 1

cylinder, using a feeler gauge.

Clearance, cold engine: 0.35–0.40 mm (0.01378–0.01575")

Clearance, hot engine: 0.40–0.45 mm (0.01575–0.01772")

The same clearance for intake as for exhaust valves.

NOTE! Should the clearance when checking be between

the values given below, adjustment is not necessary.

Cold engine: 0.30–0.40 mm (0.0118–0.01575")

Hot engine: 0.35–0.45 mm (0.01378–0.01772")

135. When necessary the adjustment washers are to

be replaced as follows: Turn the valve tappet so that

the grooves are aligned 90° to the length of the camshaft.

136. Install special tool part no 9995022-2 and press

down the valve tappets. Tighten the tool spindle and

adjust until the groove of the valve lifter is above the

edge and thus accessible with a pair of pliers.

137. Use special tool part no 9995026-3 (pair of pliers)

to lift out the washer.

138. Measure the thickness of the washer with a micrometer.

Calculate the thickness of the washer,

giving the correct clearance.

Example: The measured clearance is: 0.30 mm

(0.0118"), the correct clearance is 0.40 mm

(0.01575"), thus a difference of -0.10 mm (0.00394").

Measured thickness of existing washer: 3.80 mm

(0.1496").

The correct thickness on a new washer: 3.80–0.10 =

3.70 mm (0.1496–0.003294" = 0.14567").

139. The washers are available in thicknesses between

3.30 (0.12992") and 4.5 mm (0.17717") at intervals

of 0.05 mm (0.00197"). Always use new

washers only. See page 60.

60

140. Oil the new washer and insert it with the marking

facing downwards.

141. Remove the tool part no 9995022-2. Turn the

camshaft in position for ignition of number 3 cylinder

to fire. Measure the clearance with a feeler gauge

and remedy if necessary in accordance with the

above instructions. Repeat the procedure on number

4 and number 2 cylinders and in this order. Then

turn the camshaft a couple of turns and check the

clearances for all the valves.

Valve Adjustment Kit for 230,

250, AQ131, AQ151

Kit No 884516-4

The kit contains a shim assortment to provide as

large an adjustment range as possible. It can be

complemented if necessary by ordering from the

Volvo Penta Parts Department. The complete kit,

part no 884516-4 contains the following parts:

Part No: Qty: Designation: Thickness mm (inch)

463551 6 Adjustment shim 3.55 (0.13976")

463552 6 Adjustment shim 3.60 (0.14173")

463553 6 Adjustment shim 3.65 (0.14370")

463554 6 Adjustment shim 3.70 (0.14567")

463555 6 Adjustment shim 3.75 (0.14764")

463556 12 Adjustment shim 3.80 (0.14960")

463557 12 Adjustment shim 3.85 (0.15157")

463558 12 Adjustment shim 3.90 (0.15354")

463559 12 Adjustment shim 3.95 (0.15551")

463560 6 Adjustment shim 4.00 (0.15748")

463561 6 Adjustment shim 4.05 (0.15945")

463562 6 Adjustment shim 4.10 (0.16142")

463563 6 Adjustment shim 4.15 (0.16339")

463564 6 Adjustment shim 4.20 (0.16535")

834557 1 Index

834613 1 Tool box

9995022 1 Depressing tool

9995026 1 Pair of pliers

61

Overhauling the valve system

251DOHC, AQ171

Technical Description

The engine has double overhead camshafts which

open and close the valves via hydraulic valve tappets.

The hydraulic valve tappets are filled with oil

and are self-adjusting. The valve guides have a 19°

angle to the cylinder head.

4 valves per cylinder

With two inlet and exhaust valves, the total valve

area has increased by approx. 50% compared with

the 230 and 250 (AQ131, AQ151). This improves the

gas flow to the combustion chamber and the fuel/air

mixture is burnt more effectively.

The camshafts are fitted in a special camshaft carrier

fitted on the cylinder head. The seal between the

camshaft carrier and the cylinder head is done in

two ways. The spark plug wells are sealed by four

O-rings between the camshaft carrier and cylinder

head. The sealing of the flat surfaces between the

camcylinder head is done using a sealing compound

(Loctite).

The valve cover gasket is in two parts. One seals

against the spark plug wells while the second part

seals between the camshaft carrier and valve cover

outer boarder.

Hydraulic valve tappets

Between the camshaft and the hydraulic valve tappet

there is normally a certain clearance. The clearance

is greater when the engine is cold than when it

is hot to allow for the lengthwise expansion of the

Piston

Groove

Check valve

Spring

Tappet cylinder

62

valve. A certain clearance is also required to ensure

that the valve does not remain partly open, allowing

combustion gases to pass and the valve to be damaged.

Preferably, the clearance should be as close

to zero as possible. This is possible with hydraulic

valve tappets.

The solution chosen for the 251DOHC, AQ171 is a

spring inside the valve tappet cylinder which holds

the valve tappet against the camshaft, but at a lower

pressure than the valve spring, to allow the valve to

expand lengthwise.

A check valve (ball) prevents oil from being pressed

out when the camshaft pushes the hydraulic valve

tappet and the oil pressure in the valve tappet cylinder

is greater than the engine’s oil pressure.

When a valve is pushed down with the engine

stopped, oil will gradually leak out from the hydraulic

valve tappet and the valve clearance will be greater

when the engine is started and until the oil pressure

has been built up. The distance between hydraulic

valve tappet cylinder and the piston is therefore chosen

to ensure mechanical safety.

The hydraulic valve tappet on the camshaft’s

base circle

The oil for the tappets comes from the camshaft carrier

and is pressed into the valve tappet via a groove

and a hole in the side of the tappet. Oil passes

through the slit in the top of the valve tappet and into

the piston. As the engine’s oil pressure is greater

than the oil pressure in the hydraulic valve tappet,

the oil passes the check valve (the ball).

The camshaft presses the valve tappet down

The oil pressure in the valve tappet cylinder then becomes

greater than the engine’s, the check valve

closes and the hydraulic valve tappet works as one

unit.

The valve tappet back on the camshaft’s base

circle

The engine’s oil pressure is greater than the oil

pressure in the valve tappet cylinder, the check

valve opens and lets in pressure oil so that the valve

tappet is pressed against the camshaft.

Fault-tracing valve tappets

The valve tappets are very reliable and faults are

very rare. If the tappets are noisy, the cause is usually

too high or too low oil level. Check the oil level!

Momentary noise may be heard when the engine is

started. This is normal and is due to the oil being

drained from the tappets when the engine has been

stopped for a period. The tappets are refilled with oil

a few seconds after starting.

Noise at high engine speed, but quiet at low

speed: Oil level above max on the oil dipstick – the

crankshaft whips the oil to foam, which causes the

noise in the tappets. Too low oil level – the oil pump

sucks air at high engine speed or when the boat

rolls. Air in the oil can cause noise in the tappets.

Spontaneous noise at idling, disappears with increased

engine speed: This is an indication of worn

valve ball or dirt in the tappets. Noise at idling or

when engine oil is hot, quiet at higher engine

speed or with cold engine oil: Tappets that leak a

lot of oil.
63

Overhauling the valve System

251DOHC, AQ171

IMPORTANT! Do not turn either the crankshaft

or the camshaft. The pistons can hit

the valves!

142. Remove the nuts and the valve cover. Tool

width: 10 mm. Remove the gaskets.

146. Lift out the hydraulic valve tappets and place

them upside down in an oil bath. Use a magnet or

suction cup as an aid when lifting out of the valve

tappets.

NOTE! Be careful to place the tappets in the order

they had in the engine. The tappets must be fitted in

their respective bores. Do not mix them! Mark the oil

bath vessel to ensure that the correct order is maintained.

146A. Check the valve tappets for any wear. Measure

if necessary.

Hydraulic valve lifter, measurement

A: External diameter, mm/in ....................... 35/1.378

B: External height, mm/in ............................ 26/1.024

Distance to top of valve tappet

C (1): Unloaded, mm/in .......................... 18.40/0.724

C (2): Compressed, mm/in .................... 16.15/0.636

143. Remove the camshaft bearing caps. Tool width:

1/2". The caps are numbered from 1 to 10.

NOTE! Number 10 is marked with a ‘zero’ only. The

caps numbers 1 to 5 are installed on the port camshaft,

counted from the number 1 cylinder.

144. Lift out the camshaft and remove the camshaft

gear wheel. Use special tool part no 9995034-7 as

counterhold. Tool width: 17 mm.

145. Remove the sealing rings (1). Check the camshafts

for wear. Replace them if necessary.

64

148. Remove the cylinder head by removing the cylinder

head bolts in the sequence shown in the illustration.

Spanner width: 14 mm. Then remove the cylinder

head gasket.

IMPORTANT! The cylinder head is made of

aluminum. In order to avoid scratches etc,

place the cylinder head on wooden blocks.

149. Remove the valves. Use special tool, part no

9986052-0.

150. Remove and place the valve locks (1), retainer

(2), spring (3) and the lower washer (4) (exhaust)

and the valve (5) in the same sequence as removed

from the engine.

NOTE! Do not mix the parts!

147. Remove the 5 nuts which attach the camshaft

carrier to the cylinder head. Tool width: 1/2". Then

lift out the camshaft carrier.

NOTE! Remove the O-rings between the cylinder

head and the camshaft carrier (later production).

151. Remove the valve seals from the intake valves

and then the lower washer.

152. Clean the cylinder head and sealing surface.

Use a metal ruler and a feeler gauge. The warp must

not exceed 0.5 mm (0.0197") lengthwise and 0.25

mm (0.0098") diagonally.

IMPORTANT! The cylinder head cannot be

machined if the warp is greater than 1.0 mm

(0.0394") lengthwise or 0.5 mm (0.0197") diagonally.

Cylinder head height, new ............. 103.5 mm (4.0748")

Cylinder head height, min after reworking ..... 103.0 mm

(4.055")

Reworking, total = 0.5 mm (0.0198")

65

153. Use a cutter to clean the valve seats. Remove

carbon deposits from the combustion chambers and

the valves. Check the valves for cracks and other

possible damages. Replace if necessary.

154. Check the wear in the valve guides. Use new

valves and push up the valves 1–2 mm (0.0394–

0.0787"), hold while measuring. Clearance with new

valve and new valve guide, intake: 0.030–0.060 mm

(0.00118–0.00236"), exhaust: 0.040–0.070 mm

(0.00157–0.00276"). Maximum clearance allowed

with new valve and old valve guide is 0.15 mm

(0.0059") for intake as well as for exhaust.

155. Place the cylinder head in special tool part no

884979-6 and hold it with 2 screws (M12).

156. Use special tool part no 884959-0 to start

pressing out the valve guide. Press until the tool bottoms.

Changing the valve guides

157. Change over to special tool part no 884958-0

and press until the tool bottoms.

66

158. Put the new valve guide on special tool part no

884966-3.

159. Press the new valve guide into the cylinder

head. Press home the tool.

NOTE! The old valve guide is still in the cylinder

head and is ‘guiding’ the tool with the new valve

guide. The old valve guide will fall out of the cylinder

head.

160. Ream the valve guide. Use special tool part no

884967-1.

NOTE! New valve must always be lapped against

the valve seat.

Changing the valve seat

The valve seats should, in principle, be changed in

accordance with paragraphs 103–108 on pages 53

and 54. Special tool part no 884960-6 for intake and

part no 884961-4 for exhaust.

161.

IMPORTANT! The exhaust valves are ‘Stellite’

coated and therefore cannot be machined.

They can only be lapped to fit by using grinding

compound. If they are machined the ‘Stellite’-coating

is removed and the heat protection of the valve is

reduced.

162. Machine the valve seats. The same angle for

intake as for exhaust. The valve seat width = accordance

with the illustration. Check the valve contact

against the seat. If necessary lap the valves using

grinding compound.

Stellite

Inlet Exhaust

(0.051–0.075") (0.067–0.091")

67

163. Check the valve springs with a spring tester.

Length, unloaded ............................... 43 mm (1.6929")

loaded 232 N ± 20 N (51±4.48 lbf.) ..... 37 mm (1.4567")

loaded 640 N ± 40 N (141±8.96 lbf.) 26.5 mm (1.0816")

164. Check to make sure that valves and valve

seats are seating correctly by coating the seat surface

of the valve with marking dye and turn it with

light pressure against the valve seat. Should the

marking dye not be evenly distributed against the

seat contact surface (the valve will not seal), the

valve has to be lapped further and checked once

more until a correct result has been obtained.

Assembling the cylinder head

165. Place the lower valve spring washer in the cylinder

head. Oil and install the valve. Then install the

seal on the intake valves only.

166. Install:

1. The valve spring

2. The upper valve spring retainer

3. The valve lock

Use the valve spring compressor.

NOTE! Install the exhaust valves without seals.

Then install the spark plugs.

NOTE! Make sure that the spark plug thread enters

properly in order not to destroy the thread in the aluminum

cylinder head. Tightening torque: 25–30 Nm

(2.5–3.0 kpm/18–32 ft.lbs).

68

Assembly

167. Check to make sure that the number 1 piston is

at T.D.C., with the pulley at 0°.

168. Check that the block and cylinder head contact

surfaces are properly cleaned. Install a new cylinder

head gasket and then install the cylinder head.

Check to make sure that the gasket between the

cylinder head and the water circulation pump is not

damaged and correctly positioned.

169. Install the cylinder head bolts in the cylinder head.

NOTE! The 3 short ones are to be positioned on the

port side and between the front and rearmost bolts.

They are marked ‘white’ in the illustration.

170. The cylinder head bolts must be replaced in

case they show signs of elongation. Whether a bolt

is elongated or not can be seen on the waist of the

bolt. If the waist is elongated, then the bolt has to be

replaced by a new one. The bolts can be re-used 5

times at the most. If uncertain, replace all bolts.

171. Tighten the bolts in sequence and in steps. See

the illustration. Tool width: 14 mm.

1 = 20 Nm (2.0 kpm/15 ft.lbs)

2 = 40 Nm (4.0 kpm/30 ft.lbs)

3 = angle tightening through 120°.

172. Place the O-rings in their positions on the cylinder

head.

NOTE! On engines of earlier make, there are no Orings.

Sealant for the camshaft carrier

173A. Use trichloroethylene or an alkaline degreasing

agent to clean the components carefully. Follow

the instructions for the cleaning agent carefully.

Coat the contact surface of the camshaft mechanism

with a thin layer of sealant (approx 0.05–0.10

mm 0.00197–0.00394"). Use ‘Loctite 518’ or its

equivalent.

NOTE! Use a short fiber type of roller or a brush to

apply the sealant.

IMPORTANT! Make sure that no sealant enters

the oil channels (1) or the drain channel

(2).

69

173B. Place the camshaft carrier on the cylinder

head. Install the 5 nuts by hand. Make sure the carrier

enters the end guides.

174. Place the hydraulic lifters in their exact previous

locations.

NOTE! Should any of the valve lifters be worn (do

not function), it has to be replaced as a unit. Lower

the lifter in clean oil and pump with the center plug

until it feels ‘hard’.

175. Check to make sure that the half-moon seal in

the camshaft carrier is not damaged. Replace if necessary.

176. Grease the seal ring and install it carefully on

the camshaft.

NOTE! Turn the ‘smooth’ side facing outwards (towards

the front).

177. Install the camshaft gears on the camshaft.

Use counterhold, part no 9995034-7. Tightening

torque: 50 Nm (5.0 kpm/36 ft.lbs).

178. Place the camshafts in the camshaft carriers

so that the front lobes (No 1) are turned facing upward

and inward towards each other.

NOTE! The camshaft with a groove for the distributor

drive, should be installed on the port side.

Check to make sure that the markings on the camshaft

gears are pointing up.

70

179. Place the camshaft bearing caps 1 to 5 on the

port camshaft.

NOTE! Caps no’s 1, 5 and 6 should be coated with

gasket compound. Then place the bearing caps no’s

6 to 10 on the starboard camshaft. The number 10

bearing cap is marked with a ‘zero’ only.

IMPORTANT! Make sure that the sealing rings

at caps no’s 1 and 6 are properly positioned.

IMPORTANT! Do not turn the crankshaft or

the camshaft. The pistons will hit the valves.

180. Install the nuts and tighten them with a torque

of 20 Nm (2.0 kpm/15 ft. lbs). Tool width: 1/2".

Tighten alternatingly and in sequence.

NOTE! Also tighten the nuts in the middle.

IMPORTANT! Do not turn the crankshaft or the

camshaft! The pistons might hit the valves!

181. Install new gaskets on the camshaft carrier.

The gasket in the middle of the picture can be installed

in one way only. The arrow (1) should point

at no 1 cylinder.

182. Install the valve cover and tighten it with the

nuts. Tool width: 10 mm.

71

4F Installing the toothed belt

Installing the toothed belt 230, 250,

AQ131, AQ151

183. Check to make sure that the recess (1) of the

outer guide plate coincides with the marking of the

housing.

184. Align the intermediate shaft with the marking

(1).

185. Place the valve cover without the gasket on the

cylinder head. Position the marked plate on the two

front stud bolts. Then make sure that the marking of

the camshaft gear lines up with the plate marking.

Note! not all engines have the marked plate.

186. Check the condition of the toothed belt.

NOTE! Grease or oil must not be on the belt. Then

adjust the markings of the belt as follows: Two lines

against the marking of the crankshaft guide plate

and one line against the marking of the intermediate

wheel. The last marking, also one line, against the

marking of the camshaft gear.

NOTE! At the crankshaft marking, the belt must be

pushed down into the correct tooth gap for checking.

72

187. Carefully move the belt onto the belt tensioning

roller being careful not to damage the belt.

188. Make sure that the nut of the belt tensioner is

not tightened. Compress the tensioner and remove

the drill (or other tool) to allow the spring to tension

the belt. Tighten the nut.

189. Turn the crankshaft clockwise a few degrees.

This is in order to remove the ‘slack’ between the

belt wheels.

NOTE! Do not turn the crankshaft anti-clockwise.

This will cause the belt to jump over giving an incorrect

setting.

190. Back off the nut of the belt tensioner again to

allow the spring to tension the belt again. Make sure

that the belt tensioner is not seized in its pivot.

Torque the nut 50 Nm (5.0 kpm/36 ft.lbs). The belt

must be tensioned at least once per season and replaced

every 500 hours of operation. Remove the

valve cover and install the valve cover gasket.

73

Installing the toothed belt 251DOHC,

AQ171

191. Inspect the belt tensioner. There should be no

play in the bearing. If the contact surface of the roller

is damaged, the roller and the belt must be replaced.

Fine-adjust the camshaft gears and the

crankshaft gear so that they will line up exactly with

the respective markings on the valve cover and the

seal holder behind the torsional damper.

192. Install the belt so that the yellow (lines) markings

align as follows:

2 lines against the crankshaft gear marking and 1

line against each of the camshaft gear markings. For

the crankshaft gear marking, the belt has to be depressed

somewhat into the correct tooth gap for

checking. Also see under 250, AQ151).

NOTE! For the 250, AQ151 the belt must be installed

on the belt tensioner prior to being installed

on the camshaft gears, this because the belt tensioner

is provided with guiding edges.

Check carefully that the belt is installed so that the

markings line up.

NOTE! It is not necessary to adjust the marking of

the intermediate wheel against the belt marking.

193. Turn the belt tensioner to tension the belt and

then tighten the Allen-head screw. Tool width: 8 mm.

The belt must be tensioned at least once per season

and be replaced after every 500 hours of operation.

194. Method 1: Correct belt tension. Turn the crankshaft

a few degrees counter clockwise and check

that the marking on the belt (2 lines) coincide with

the marking on the guide plate. Then turn the crankshaft

a few turns clockwise. Take the belt between

the index finger and the thumb and twist it. It should

be possible to twist the belt 90° by hand. Increase or

decrease the belt tension, should the belt not be tensioned

correctly.

195. Method 2: Tension the belt and place special

tool part no 1159660-8 on the belt. ‘Zero’ the instrument

by depressing the lever (1). Then press the

tool against the belt until a ‘click’ is heard. Note the

value of the tool. The correct value should be 20 to

25 Kilos (44–55 lbs). Tension or loosen the belt as

required.

74

4G Installing the external

components of the Cylinder Head

196. Install the timing gear cover. Tool width: Allenhead

6 mm and hexagonal 10 mm.

197. Install the sea water pump. Tool width: 10 mm.

Make sure that the pump shaft engages the crosspiece

carrier.

198. Install the cooling water pipes on the sea water

pump. Check the seal. Replace if necessary.

199. Install the V-belt and tension it to allow it to be

depressed approx. 5 mm (0.2") by normal thumb

pressure. Tool width: 1/2" and 16 mm.

NOTE! Make sure the V-belt enters the correct

groove on the crankshaft pulley.

200. Install the thermostat along with a new gasket

in the thermostat housing. Then install the thermostat

housing on the engine. Tool width: 10 mm.

201. 251DOHC, AQ171. Make sure that the O-rings

on the distributor are not damaged. Replace if necessary.

Grease the distributor shaft and install the

distributor on the engine. Tool width: 10 mm.

IMPORTANT: In order to position the distributor

correctly, the plastic bushing (1) must be

installed with the screw (2).

75

202. 251DOHC, AQ171. Install the spark plug leads

on the spark plugs and push them into the lead holders.

203. 251DOHC, AQ171. Install the protective cover

for the spark plugs.

204. Put on a new gasket for the intake manifold on

the cylinder head. Tighten the lower bolts slightly.

205. Make sure that the temp sender wire is not

damaged and push on the protective cap.

206. Install the intake manifold together with the carburetor.

Tighten the oil dipstick tube to the intake

manifold. Tool width: 1/2" or 13 mm. Then install the

hose between the fuel pump and the carburetor.

207. 251DOHC, AQ171. Install the vacuum hoses

(1) from the intake manifold and the cold starting device

and the connection (2) on the magnetic valve

on the carburetor.

208. Install the rubber seals, the flame arrestors and

the covers on the carburetors.

76

209. Install the frame arrester cover. Tool width: 10

mm.

210. Connect the hose from the oil trap to the underside

of the flame arrester.

211. Install the exhaust manifold with a new gasket.

Tool width: 1/2" or 13 mm.

NOTE! The gasket will only fit one way. The 2 short

bolts to be installed up front.

212. Install the pipe between the oil cooler and the

exhaust manifold. Tool width: 10 mm. Check the

sealings. Replace if necessary.

213. Put new sealings on the cooling water pipes

and a new O-ring on the heat exchanger and install

the heat exchanger to the pipes. Assemble the heat

exchanger to the thermostat housing. Tool width: 12

mm.

214. Install the heat exchanger on the exhaust manifold.

Tool width: 12 mm.

77

215. Install the cooling water hose on the heat exchanger.

Tighten the hose clamp properly.

216. 251DOHC,