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Sewing Machine Operation - SMO

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BANGLADESH TECHNICAL EDUCATION BOARD

SYLLABUS FOR THE NSS (Basic) TRADE COURSE

ON

Industrial Sewing Machine Operation

Total Duration: 360 hours/6 Months

Course Title: Industrial Sewing Machine Operation


Index
Sl. No. Subject Page No.
01 Introduction 2

02 Objectives 3

03 Course outline 3

04 Competencies 3

05 Contents 4

06 Entry qualification 15

07 Employment opportunities 15

08 List of tools and equipment 15

09 Raw materials 16

10 Reference book 16

1
Course Name: Industrial Sewing Machine Operation

Introduction
Industrial Sewing Machine Operation trade course will provide fundamental knowledge, Skills and
attitudes of Industrial Sewing Machine Operation and Sewing Machine Equipment. This course also
develops skills for working with Industrial Sewing Machine Operation, Sewing Machine Devices
and Equipment.

Objectives

After completion the course the trainee will be able to:

• Identify the different parts and their functions, threading and thread tension adjustof
Industrial Sewing Machine.
• Identify Garments components and Machineries.
• Operate Industrial Sewing Machine
• Practice basic & job related exercise and components making.
• Assemble the Garments components
• Identify the fault of the main parts of Industrial Sewing Machine
• Repair and replace the faulty parts
• Identify sewing defects and recertify.
• Demonstrate responsibility.

Course outline
Name of Duration of Course Entry Qualification
Course
Industrial Total 360 hrs 6 day per week, per day 3hrs
Sewing Theory = 60hrs Theory =1hr, per lesson Minimum class
Machine Practical = 240hrs Practical =2hrs.per practice eight/JSC/JDC or
Operation Basic competency & Total=3hrs, per working day equivalent
English =60hrs

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LIST OF COMPETENCIES ( Learning outcome)

Upon completion of the program the student /trainee shall be able to perform the following

Generic/Basic Competency:
1. Receive and respond, participate and lead to workplace communication
2. Work with others, Team environment and lead small teams
3. Demonstrate work values, practice career professionalism and develop & practice negotiation
skills
4. Practice workplace Occupational health and safety procedure
5. Use Basic mathematical concepts
6. Use English in work place

Common Competencies:
1. Course Introductory
2. Measuring practice, fabrics and accessories.
3. Safe use of hand tools and lock stitch Machine
4. Industrial Sewing Machine, thread tension
5. Garments quality control system

Core Competencies:

1. Garments industry for shirt

2. Making cuff

3. Making collar & band

4. Making front pocket, gambol & plackets

5. Yoke join, collar, label & body attach

6. Sleeve attach side steam, cuff attach & bottom rolling

7. Button hole & button stitch

8. Sewing a Shirt

9. Sewing a Trouser/Pant

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List of Competencies
Basic Competencies: Contents:

(i) Basic Competencies - 30 hours


SL.NO. Topics hours
i). Receive and respond, participate and lead to workplace communication:
1 a) Explain & follow routinary speaking & messages in a 1
workplace.
2 b) Follow routinary speaking & message. 1
3 c) Perform work duties following written notices. 1
ii). Work with others, Team Environment and Lead small Teams:
4 a) Develop effective workplace relationship. 1
5 b) Show good Manner 1
6 c) Respect honorable person (Sir, Trainer, Senior, Trainees) 1
7 d) Describe team role and scope 1
8 c) Contribute to work group activities 1.5
9 d) Work as a team member. 1
10 e) Identify own role and responsibility within team 1.5
iii). Demonstrate work values, practice career professionalism and develop & practice
negotiation skills
11 a) Define the purpose of works. 1
12 b) Apply work values/ethics. 1
13 c) Deal with ethical problems. 1
14 d) Integrate personal objectives with organizational goal. 1
15 e) Maintain professional growth and development 2
iv). Practice workplace Occupational health and safety procedure
16 a) Workplace maintained as per required standards. 1
17 b) Arrange items. 1
18 c) Maintain work areas, Tools and Equipment. 1
19 d) Follow standardizes work process and procedures. 1
20 e) perform work spontaneously. 1
21 f) Occupational safety and health procedure 2
v). Use Mathematical Concepts & Techniques and Use Relevant Technologies:
22 a) Identify calculation requirements in the workplace. 2
23 b) Appropriate method is selected to carry out the calculation. 2
24 c) Calculations are completed using appropriate method such 2
as addition, subtraction, multiplication and division.

a) (ii) Use English in work place - 30 hours

Related Subject-10 hours and General Subject- 20 hours 1 hour/period


On the completion of this course trainees will be able to:
1. Communicate with target persons effectively.
2. Understand the speech of English users.
3. Achieve better professional performance.
4. Speak in English with confidence

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Sl. No. Tropics- Conversational Situation hours
01 Speaking English – Getting Information & Finding one’s way 1
03 Speaking English – About Tools and Equipments 1
02 Speaking English – About meeting some one & participating in class. 1
04 Speaking English – Daily Activities & Asking About Activities 1
05 Speaking English – Evening Activities and about theoretical contents. 1
06 Speaking English – Meeting at the Train station & Asking Question at the 1
Train station.
07 Speaking English – Meeting at the Airport & Getting information at the 1
Airport’s
08 Speaking English – About different type of Measuring Tools and Cutting 1
Tools
09 Speaking English – Getting to the Hotel & Asking direction. 1
10 Speaking English – Asking about Buses & Traveling by bus. 1
11 Speaking English - About Practical Class. 1
12 Speaking English – Going by Taxi and Asking the time. 1
13 Speaking English – Arriving early or late and Time and the calendar. 1
14 Speaking English – Living in an Apartment. 1
15 Speaking English – Using the Telephone. 1
16 Speaking English – Getting help in stores and talking about shopping. 1
17 Speaking English – Sending and Receiving Letters. 1
18 Speaking English – Talking about the Weather & Trips and sight seeing. 1
19 Speaking English – Talking about Eating & Dinner Conversation. 1
20 Speaking English – About Machines and Materials. 1
21 Speaking English – Common Health problem and Quitting & Finding 1
Jobs.
22 Speaking English – Office Details and Office Conversation. 1
23 Speaking English – About Practical Job. 1
24 Speaking English – On a specific situation & Public speaking. 1
25 Speaking English – About Exchanging view with a Persons & Introducing oneself. 1
26 Speaking English – Describing and Narrating events, place, Objects etc. 1
27 Speaking English – About different type of computer, operating system, system 4
and operating software, add remove software, DBM, Email and internet .

Practical:
1. Speaking on a specific Situation.
2. Public Speaking.
3. Exchanging views with target persons.
4. Introducing one self.
5. Describing & Narrating events, places, objects etc.
6. Producing the meaning of given words (by the teachers)-Vocabulary.
7. Prepared speech.

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1. Common Competencies: Content

1.1 Course Introductory

Instructional Allocated Hours


The Trainee will be able to.....
Unit Theory Practical
1. Course  tell the course objective.
Objective, – mention the training items
02 --
Importance of - narrate the course sequence.
ISOM trade  describe the importance of ISO trade .

1.2 Measuring Practice & Accessories

Instructional The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours


Unit Theory Practical
 mention the units of measure of fabric in inches
and centimeter
 classify in inches and centimeter
1. Unit of
 display 01 inch=08 sutas (one eight inch) 01 01 ---
Measure
cm=10 mili (millimeters)
 calculate from yards, feet, and inches to meter and
centimeter
 identify measuring tools.
2. Measuring  tell the name of measuring tools
01 02
Tools  use different types of measuring tools.
 show the correct use of marking chalks
 identify the measuring point of human body.
 take measurement from human body.
3. Measuring  explain the measurement of different human body.
----- 04
Practice  take measurements of a piece of fabrics on the
right side (correct side) with a measuring tape,
inch, cm
 name & display different types of interlining and
its uses
 identify different types of threads
4. Accessories  ensure the proper use of different types of threads 02 -----
 identify thread defects.
 explain label & its kinds.
 explain other accessories.

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1.3 Safe Use Of Hand Tools & Lock Stitch Machine

Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours


Theory Practical
 show the safe use of commonly used hand
tools at garments industries
 Practice safe use of hand tools big scissors,
thread cutter, stitches opener screw drivers
etc.
1.Safe Use Of Hand  Maintain right position of hands & legs when
Tools & Sewing machine is sewing. -----
02
Machine  Practice start and stop of sewing machine.
 operate the sewing machines safely
 needle setting
 threading the machine
 Winding a bobbin.
 bobbin case setting etc.
 Name different parts of a lock stitch machine.
2. Lock Stitch
 Identity different parts of a lock stitch
Machine &
machine.
common naming the 02 02
 Describe the function of different parts of a
parts of SNLS/ F.
lock stitch machine.
M/C
 Explain the use of a lock stitch machine.
 Practice operate machine without needle on
paper.
3. Exercise Machine  Practice operate machine with needle on
Control With Out paper.
- 16
Needle, with needle,  Operate machine with needle on drawing
on paper (SNLS) paper
 show the proper line as per drawing paper
sheet
 Practice operate machine with needle on
paper and fabrics (straight) without thread.
 Practice operate machine straight sewing
4. Exercise Machine
 Practice threading the machine & sewing
Control on practice
straight on marked fabrics - 16
sheet with paper &
 Practice use back stitch guide in the correct
fabrics (SNLS)
position
 Practice make folded (two/three fold) sewing
on fabrics

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1.4 Industrial Sewing Machine, Thread Tension
And preventive Maintenance
Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours
Theory Practical
 mention needle & bobbin thread tension
 Explain the bad lock stitch.
01. Thread Tension
 Display to check correct thread tensions.
of Industrial Sewing 01 04
 Display machine thread tension adjusted.
M/C
 State correct thread tension.
 Set correct needle & bobbing thread tension.
 Mention the different kinds of needle.
02. Needle of  Compare different size of hand needle and
Industrial Sewing M/c machine needle. 01 -
 Identify the main parts and needle.
 Recognize possible faults of needle
 Basic Maintenance Exercise of the following
Industrial sewing Machines:
Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine
Over Lock Machine
03. Basic preventive
Button Stitch Machine
Maintenance of 03 15
Button Hole machine
Industrial Sewing M/c
 identify the fault of the main parts of lock
stitch machine
 Explain the importance of lubrication.

1.5 Garment quality control system


Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours
Theory Practical
1. Common shirt faults, ‐ list & identify the common shirt faults
stitch counts & stitch ‐ explain what % of faults to be considered by 2 4
defects the buyer/buyer representatives
‐ display stitch count per inch/centimeter
‐ explain how number & length of stitches per
inches or per centimeter is controlled
‐ display the appearance of faulty stitches
2. Bundling system ‐ explain the size bundling system of a garment
industry 1 2
‐ explain how the shirt parts are bundled
together
‐ explain the rule of bundling in garment
quality control
‐ make a bundle card
3. Comments ‐ explain terms/words used in a garment factory
terms/words used in ‐ apply common terms/words used in a garment 5 0
garments factory
‐ explain the benefits of learning common
terms/words used in a garment factory test

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2. Core Competencies: Content
2.1 Shirt & Garment Industries for Shirts
Allocated Hours
Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to.....
Theory Practical
Collar, cuffs & pocket ‐ explain the different types of collars
‐ recognize one pc collar, two pc collar, 03 08
collar bone, collar stay, quarter patch
‐ explain different kinds of cuffs, rounded,
squared notched
‐ explain different types/sizes of pockets
2. Gamble & sleeve ‐ mention the different types of gambles
‐ identify the placket gamble and long 03 1
gamble
‐ mention the different types of sleeves of
shirt
‐ identify the long sleeve and the short
sleeve
3. Shirts making ‐ describe the different sections of shirt
sequence making 04 1
‐ explain the make sequence
‐ explain the assembling sequence
‐ describe the thread trimming
4.Garment industries ‐ explain different sections of garment
different kind of industries 1
products ‐ describe the cutting section 05
‐ describe the sewing section
‐ explain the quality section
‐ explain the finishing section
‐ Moving about production and have
students describe a production of T-shirts
to check if they remember
5. Sewing practice of ‐ prepare cuff & collar of shirt
shirt parts & ‐ make a pocket on shirt - 12
jobs/processes ‐ make a placket & gamble

2.2 Making Cuff (Industrial Sewing System)

Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours


Theory Practical
1. Interlining shape – ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
making/finishing ‐ mark the interlining by using pattern - 4
‐ fuse the interlining with fabric by using
fusing machine
‐ set the interlining on the fabric, ensure
quality by fusing
‐ ensure target to production
2. Cuff rolling ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ make properly by using suitable guide 01 2
‐ fold the fabric over the interlining
‐ match the stripe or pattern as required
‐ ensure target to production
3. Cuff sewing ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ make properly by folding the inside piece 4
of fabric over the rolled piece 02
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‐ give tack at each end
‐ sew carefully along the line drawn on the
interlining
‐ ensure target to production
4. Cuff top stitch ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ turn the cuff and raise the cuff points 2
round – obtain the correct shape with the -
finger
‐ top stitch the cuff using the guide
specified
‐ start top stitching 1/8” from stitch line to
cuff rolling back stitch at start & finish
‐ ensure target to production

2.3 Making collar & band(Industrial Sewing System)


Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours
heory Practical
1. Collar sewing ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ set the fused piece on the 2nd piece of 02 6
collar
‐ sew the collar along the edge of the
interlining
‐ cut the edge fabric of collar
‐ ensure target to production
2. Collar top stitch ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ turn the collar and form the collar point 4
‐ place the collar on the table to setup
presser feed and stop stitch the collar edge
‐ use the specified guide 1/32”, 1/8”, 1/4”
‐ ensure target to production
3.Band rolling ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day 02
‐ stitch along the edge of the folded portion 2
of material
‐ back tack if required (not always
necessary)
‐ cut the edge fabric of band
‐ ensure target to production
4. Collar band attach ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ sew the collar band to the collar using a
card board guide 4
‐ sew around the guide half way, then turn
the guide over and sew the other side
‐ back tack at start and finish
‐ trim the excess fabric with scissors
‐ ensure target of production
5.Collar band attach ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
top stitch ‐ turn by band the collar and from the band
nose shape correctly 6
‐ top stitch the attached band using 1/32”
guide
‐ cut excess fabric from the collar band
where it will be attached to body
‐ body attached allowance 1/32”
‐ mark three joining marks on the collar,
one centre, two at the shoulder point
‐ ensure target to production
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2.4 Making fronts, pocket, gamble and placket
(Industrial Sewing System)
Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours
Theory Practical
‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
1. Upper front top ‐ ensure that the fabric is correctly
centre positioned in the folder
‐ ensure that the fabric is correctly guided 02 02
under the needle, stripe must be straight
‐ stitch straightly by using proper folder
‐ ensure target to production
‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
2. Upper front lower ‐ over lock along edge of upper front as
front over lock edging indicated in the specification
‐ ensure target to production 02 02
‐ over lock along edge of lower front as
indicated in the specification
‐ ensure target to production
3.Pocket attach ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ fold the pocket by using iron
‐ position the pocket on the shirt front
using either of the named location
06
methods
‐ sew around the side and bottom of the
pocket
‐ ensure target to production
‐ Cut and prepare spare parts for pockets
4. Five different ‐ Sew 5 kinds of pockets 03 06
pockets
5. Lower front rolling ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ insert the fabric correctly into the folder if
a folder is used or free hand
‐ fold the fabric by using a card board
guide and your fingers if a folder is not ----- 06
used
‐ sew along the edge of the fabric ensuring
the tem width as per specification
‐ ensure target to production
6.Lower gamble, ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day 02
upper gamble ‐ put the lower gamble piece into the
correct position in the gamble cut and
stitch along the edge 06
‐ ensure target to production
‐ stitch the upper gamble piece into the
correct position along the edge
‐ ensure target to production

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2.5 Yoke join & collar to body attach (Industrial Sewing System)

Allocated Hours
Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to.....
Theory Practical
‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
1.Label attach ‐ iron and fold the label for centering 02 02
‐ fold the yoke as per specified position of
label for centering
‐ use a cardboard pattern to locate the label
into the required position
‐ stitch the label to the yoke all around or
on two sides as specified
‐ ensure target to production
2. Back yoke join & ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
front yoke join ‐ sew the three pcs. together across the top
back of the shirt with a 3/8” allowance or
as per specification
‐ ensure target to production 06
‐ arrange one front piece, put it inside the
yoke
‐ bring the outside yoke underneath the two
assembled pieces to form the third piece
by using a “t”-guide or a magnetic guide
‐ ensure the tem is the correct with
‐ turn the stitch piece inside out to form the
correct shape
‐ repeat as above on the other side
‐ ensure target to production
3. Collar to body ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
attach ‐ position the shirt with the attached inside
stitched collar on to the machine work 06
table
‐ push the excess material of the body using
the location marks on band and body neck
‐ attach the collar to the body by inside
sewing
‐ back tack 1/4” at each end
‐ ensure target to production
4. Collar to body ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
attach top stitch + size ‐ position the shirt with the attached inside
label stitched collar onto the machine
‐ push the excess material of the body 06
inside the edge of the collar
‐ stitch across the collar notching the
position of the locating marks – collar,
collar band and body, one mark right hand
shoulder, one left hand shoulder, one
mark centre shoulder
‐ insert size and care label midway position
as per specification
‐ ensure target to production

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2.5 Sleeve attach, side seam, cuff attach & bottom rolling
(Industrial Sewing System)

Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours


Theory Practical
‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
1. Sleeve attach ‐ position the left sleeve correctly onto the -
arm hole and sew rear to front 08
‐ position the right sleeve correctly onto the
armhole and sew rear to front
‐ ensure the sleeve is sewn correctly into
position and pattern if any is matched or
as per specification
‐ ensure target to production
2. Side seam + care ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
label ‐ position the shirt piece on the machine
‐ interlock the side seam from the bottom of 06
the side to the end of sleeve
‐ take care that the arm hole edge come
together at the correct point
‐ insert the care label lt. side or as per
specification
‐ ensure target to production
3. Cuff attach ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ place the sleeve edge correctly into the
opened cuff 08
‐ back tack about 1/4” at the shirt
‐ stitch along the cuff, insert pleat as per
specification
‐ join point of cuff, check cuff position and
pattern match
‐ ensure target to production
4.Bottom rolling ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ double fold the bottom leading edge
‐ feed the fold edge into a simple hemming 04
folder
‐ sew the whole bottom, hem, back tack
1/4” at each end
‐ ensure target to production

2.7 Button hole & button stitch (Industrial Sewing System)

Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours


Theory Practical
1. Button hole, ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
positioning mark ‐ mark the neck button hole position - 08
‐ mark the first button position
‐ position the other button marks
‐ ensure target to production
2. Button hole ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
‐ position the collar band under the pressure 04
foot
‐ use the edge of the guide and the pressure
foot locate and stitch the first button hole
‐ measure the second button hole from the
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first button hole by using upright metal
guide distance passes
‐ locate the position of each button hole
‐ ensure target to production
3. Button stitch, ‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
position mark ‐ mark the neck button position 02
‐ mark the first button position
‐ position the other button marks
‐ ensure target to production
‐ test speed/quality 1 hour every day
4. Button stitch ‐ place a button in the correct position in
the clamp 06
‐ stitch the first button on the collar in the
correct position
‐ repeat 02 for every button location mark
and ensure the buttons are in the centre of
the button holes
‐ ensure that all buttons fit directly in the
centre of the button hole
‐ take great care with this because it is a
make of good quality
‐ ensure target to production

2.8 Sewing A Trouser /Pant

Instructional Unit The Trainee will be able to..... Allocated Hours


Theory Practical
 tell the different types of Trouser.
 identify the parts of Trouser.
1. Introduction to  take measurements by using the measuring
03 04
Trouser tape
(length, hip, waist, leg opening, etc.).
 calculate fabric requirement for a Trouser
 spread the paper / fabric.
 locate the measuring point of different part of
a Trouser.
2. Draw parts of a
 draw the line according to point 03 08
Trouser pattern
measurement
 ensure the drawing of a Trouser
 draw on brown paper / paper & sew
 attach a zipper of a Trouser
 make a side pocket of a Trouser
3. Sewing a Trouser  make a back pocket of a Trouser prepare a - 10
belt of a Trouser
 Sewing a complete Trouser

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Entry Qualification:

Minimum class eight/JSC/JDC or equivalent

Employment Opportunity:

1. NGO’s
2. Abroad
3. Self Employment
4. BGMEA
5. BKMEA
6. BTMA
7. Government sector
8. Garments Industries

Machine, Tools and Equipment

List of Machineries :

Single needle lock stitch machine auto and


manual
Double needle lock stitch machine
Button Hole Machine
Button Attach Machine
Three/four/Five thread Over lock Machine
Flat lock Machine
Bartake Machine
PMD Machine (Konsai)
Electric steam iron
Generator
Fire Extinguisher

List of tools and equipment:


Stitch opener
Scissors(Fabric cutter)
Thread Cutters
Measuring Tape
Screw drivers (Star, Flat)
Needle, hook
Allen key
Combination Pliers
Flat nose pliers
Stop watch
Hammers/Plastic Hammer
Bobbin case and Bobbin
Apron
Musk
Meter scale

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Raw Materials
Cotton Fabric
TC Fabric
Knit ferbric
Thread(Cone)
Interlining
Pattern paper
Button
Marker paper
Zipper
Machine oil

Reference book:
Sl. No Name of Books Author
1. Garments Technology Prof. Md. Abul kashem
2. Manual BMET
3. Manual/catalog of sewing machine operator
4. Dress making Mr. Durlav Chandra Kha
5. www.tesda.gov.ph/
sewing machine operation manual :

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