Prado Problems 3
Prado Problems 3
Prado Problems 3
Home USED CAR REVIEWS Toyota Toyota Land Cruiser Prado Diesel Engine Issues
First of all lets briefly check out 2 high mileage examples of this Toyota, since it’s gonna help to
make a better picture of these cars before we get to the more serious stuff.
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HERE is an article about a 2004 Land Cruiser Prado with the 161 hp 3.0 D4D diesel engine with
almost 600 000 mi. The car has a 5 speed automatic gearbox and the optional air suspension on the
rear axle.
If you can’t open the article here are the things which were replaced on this car:
service is carried out every 10 000 mi-oil change and filters, and the timing belt is replaced every 60
000 mi
HERE is an article about a 2008 Land Cruiser Prado with the 170 hp 3.0 D4D diesel engine with
almost 484 000 mi. The car has a 6 speed manual gearbox and a standard coilover suspension.
If you can’t open the article here are the things which were replaced on this car:
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service is carried out every 10 000 mi-oil change and filters, and the timing belt is replaced every 60
000 mi + gearbox and differential fluids are replaced every 95 000 mi + the owner never lets it idle
for long periods when warm
the car has original engine and gearbox, clutch and turbo
So as you can see the 3rd generation Toyota Land Cruiser Prado – a.k.a. the Land cruiser 120 is
capable of reaching very high mileage without much issues. There is no doubt about that. If you
need a comfortable well-built off road car and you don’t want the legendary bigger Land cruiser then
this really is a great choice. And according to those 2 examples it has bulletproof reliability !!
But is it really that straightforward? Well not really. While it’s true that the petrol engines in these
cars are great and reliable, the diesel engines can have a couple of issues which can destroy them.
So let’s check them out more closely.
Believe it or not, this Toyota was available with 3 3.0l 4 cylinder diesel engines:
The 5L-E is very simple and very reliable, but it doesn’t have a turbocharger so it has that much
power as a retired snail smoking weeeeed, and it’s so rare, that even I’m not sure if it was really
available in these cars (it was, they say). So let’s just move onto the other slightly more popular
engine – the 1KZ-TE.
This 1KZ is not that powerful either, but it’s generally speaking reliable without unexpected issues.
However if you manage to overheat it then you will end up with a cracked cylinder head, so make
sure that the cooling system of the engine is working properly:
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(cracked cylinder head symptoms: coolant loss without visible leak, oil in the coolant, bubbles in the
coolant overflow tank, overheating, white gunk under the oil cap, steam from the exhaust)
Also if you change the oil in this engine every 8 000 km / 5 000 mi then you will maximize the
lifetime of the mechanical components a.k.a. the engine is gonna live forever with this oil change
interval (until you overheat it). Before buying it’s good to rev the engine and check for smoke from
the exhaust – if you see smoke from exhaust during acceleration then most probably the injectors
are already worn out, so occasionally it’s good to replace them-like every 300 000 km to keep the
good efficiency and performance of the engine.
This is the newer, most known and most common engine which can have various power outputs:
120 KW, 122 KW, 127 KW. It has an iron cylinder block, an aluminum cylinder head, 1 turbocharger,
common rail injection and a timing belt. All of this sounds ok. And actually, I can’t say that this
engine is bad since all the main mechanical components can withstand more than 500 000 km
without much wear (except the pistons). Yes, the pistons… Once upon a time in the year 2006
Toyota slightly upgraded these engines to comply with the EURO 4 emission standards, and they
also got new pistons! But let’s not overtake the things because there are also the injectors!
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First of I have to mention the metallic sealing washers under the injectors which can, and they will
leak at some point. This is not good since → carbon soot contaminates the engine oil → this soot
will clog the oil pickup strainer restricting the flow of oil → which will cause oil starvation → which
will kill the engine if you don’t catch it early enough!!!!! Now, the most important, the most easiest
and the cheapest thing is to: check the oil pick up strainer every oil change – which is easy, since
after you remove the oil drain plug you will see at least part of the strainer and if its clogged or not.
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So you should definitely check the strainer right after buying and every oil change + if you want to
be very thorough, you can buy a small endoscopic camera and use that to check the whole oil
strainer thru the oil drain hole.
white/grey smoke from the exhaust at first engine start – when the engine is cold
“replacing all the injector washers + all the required seals can cost approx.: $560 (if you want to
have the injectors tested too → and you should, then keep another approx.: $300 for the testing)”
This issue affects mostly cars made to 2007 since Toyota used weaker injector washers in these
cars which can easily leak before 200 000 km (there have been numerous cases of total engine
failures because of this issue in these 2007 and older cars with less than 200 000 km). But from
2008 Toyota updated the washers + in some countries there was also a recall for this. So the good
thing is: plenty of these cars do have the updated better washers already fitted. But the bad thing is:
in many countries there was no recall so there are still cars equipped with the weaker washers-
mainly lower mileage cars with less than 200 000 – 150 000 km, and even the updated washers are
not gonna last forever! That’s why it’s good to replace these washers preventively mainly on these
cars made to 2007 if you don’t have a proof that they were replaced in the past.
The problem can be if the previous owner replaced the injectors and he either re-used the old
washers or if he used aftermarket washers which can fail prematurely. So always use genuine
injector washers! Now you can ask, how often you should replace these washers? Well, nobody
knows when exactly these washers are gonna fail! The genuine updated washers can easily last way
over 200 000 km, but as with the injectors it’s good to consider replacing them preventively. The
interesting thing is that the service manual says that: you should check the valve clearances on this
engine every 40 000 km. During this procedure you have to remove the injectors as well, and if you
remove them then you automatically have to replace the already mentioned washers+seals on the
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injectors. Now, if someone removed the injectors in the past and re-used the old washers then
obviously they are gonna fail prematurely. This valve clearance measuring procedure requires some
disassembling, so it’s not the cheapest and that’s why I don’t think many of the owners actually do
check the valve clearance every 40 000 km. On the other side, the valve clearances are usually fine
even at 100 000 or 150 000 km and even after that the valve clearance can be just a little bit out of
spec. So checking the valve clearance is most of the time not necessary this often.
ALL IN ALL: if everyone would follow the service manual to the last word and did the valve
clearance check every 40 000 km then THERE WOULD BE NO ISSUES with the injectors washers
like EVER, since they have to be replaced every time you take out the injectors!
“The worst combination is when the previous owner put bad quality or even used injectors in the
engine in the past + he re-used the old washers or put bad type of aftermarket washers there! And
this is why after buying a used 1KD engine you should preventively at least remove the injectors →
have them tested even if they look fine → and replace the washers with the genuine Toyota washers!
Of course if you want to spend the extra money then you can replace the injectors at the same time
as well + while doing all this check the valve clearance and eventually adjust it. Obviously if you have
a good proof that the previous owner already replaced the injectors and the injector washers with
good quality parts, then you don’t have to do this.”
Fun fact: Toyota got rid of this issue only in the newer 150 models in 2015:
The 1GD 2.8 l diesel engine made from 2015 in LC150 has improved injector mounting – the
injectors are more like externally mounted so the oil pickup strainer clogging issue is not common
on these engines. It’s also because the injector rubber oil seal is mounted way upper on the injector
so it’s more away from the heat-the lifetime of it is bigger, and if the washers on these injectors do
start to leak, then the leak will be externally visible on the valve cover. But all in all, the injector
washer lifetime should be similar on these engines too so they will last 200 000 km, but after this
mileage point it’s better to replace them.
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INJECTOR FAILURE
The next issue related to the injectors are the injectors themselves. They can fail even before
200 000 km and even on the newer land cruiser 150 equipped with this engine. How can they fail?
Symptoms of bad injectors: rattling noise from engine, loss of power, jerking, limp mode-check
engine light, smoke from exhaust when accelerating, bigger fuel consumption
But the worst thing is that they can cause wrong combustion. Wrong combustion… keep this in mind
you will hear it later. Anyway, if you got one of the symptoms of bad injectors then have the injectors
at least tested or replace them, and if your car has more than 200 000 km then it’s a very good idea
to replace the injectors preventively if you want them to be reliable, efficient, and to perform as they
should!
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Some owners are replacing the injectors preventively every 130 000 km, 100 000 km or 150 000 km.
Some mechanics recommend replacing them preventively every 100 000 km, but to be honest this
looks like a wasting. The most optimal is to replace them every 200 000 km with new genuine
washers of course, and check the oil pan pickup screen for debris every oil change + monitor your
car for weird behavior which can indicate issues with injectors like: light grey or white smoke from
the exhaust, strange fuel consumption rising, jerking while driving, or bigger rattling noise from
engine.
To be honest, most of these cars already have more than 200 000 km so it’s definitely a good idea to
replace the injectors preventively, and if you buy a car with 300 000 km or with 400 000 km then
there really is nothing to talk about. And yes, the injectors can last 300 000 km or 400 000 km but if
you want them to be reliable, efficient, and to perform as they should then replace them preventively.
But of course if you want to leave the injectors there for a longer time it’s fine-it’s your choice, and
maybe you will be lucky to experience no issues with them. However after 200 000 km the
performance of the injectors is gonna be much weaker than it should be anyway + the spray pattern
is not gonna be great at all, and also there is a higher chance that they will fail – like for example
start to drip fuel.
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PISTON FAILURE /
And now we reached the scariest and the most expensive issue these engines can have – cracked
pistons.
The piston can crack suddenly without any prior symptoms! Symptoms of a sudden piston
crack: knocking noise from engine, black smoke from exhaust, lack of power, misfire/uneven
engine running, excessive crankcase pressure
However the piston can also crack very slightly which means that the car is going to drive fine
for a longer time only with one prior symptom – a louder knocking from the engine + oil
consumption can appear too. But obviously sooner or later, in this case the engine is gonna stop
running as well.
Keep in mind that nobody knows when or if this issue is gonna happen – it can happen anytime!
There are cases when this piston failure happened even before 100 000 km so it can occur in low
mileage cars too, so obviously there are also cars which had a new engine fitted under warranty
because of this. Then there are cases of cracked pistons before 200 000 km but also after 200 000
km, or just later after 400 000 km for example.
What does that mean if you actually end up with a cracked piston? Well, in this case usually not only
the piston is gonna be damaged, but also the cylinder wall – so you have to disassemble the engine,
repair or replace the engine block + replace all the pistons and some other parts + of course you
should check the crankshaft if it’s not damaged. All in all be ready that the repair cost of this issue
is usually somewhere between 5 000 € – 11 000 € – obviously if you are going to replace only the 1
faulty piston itself then the price is gonna be much lower, but it’s not worth it since the other pistons
can crack anytime as well. So in this case definitely replace all the pistons with the latest
updated/revised/stronger pistons-made from 2017, since Toyota updated the pistons several times
and the latest revision was in 2017 (or there are also aftermarket pistons which are designed with
improved cooling channels).
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But I have to add that this issue is not extremely common. However you should keep in mind that
even if the chance that your piston cracks is not that huge, it can still happen, and that’s why it’s
good to know the possible reasons behind this!
THE REASONS
Some say it’s because of the faulty/weak piston design and someone is perfectly sure that it’s
caused by the faulty injectors only. But one thing is for sure, this issue affects cars made from 2006
which comply with the EURO 4 emission standard. Mostly cars made from 2006 to 2009 are prone
to this failure, BUT the newer 150 models equipped with these engines – mostly up until 2013 are
not safe either, there are only less cases of piston crack from these newer 150 models. But since the
latest piston revision was in 2017, we can speculate if the 150 models aren’t slightly affected even
until 2016!
Toyota acknowledged the problem so in 2014 they released a document about this issue. According
to this document, Toyota improved the injectors and they changed the piston shape to get rid of
this problem. So the injectors causing wrong combustion and the pistons themselves should be the
2 main reasons:
Pistons?
—First, let’s check out the pistons: I would lean more towards the bad piston design, since according
to the parts catalog in august 2006 Toyota updated the pistons, and from 2006 there is this possible
issue. A big contributing factor to the crack is also the heat. So it seems like the top of these pistons
can overheat and it also seems like the oil channel in the pistons is not sufficient either.
To make things even more interesting this kind of a piston crack can sometimes occur in other
diesel engines too. But I have to add that on the other diesel engines the crack is mostly caused by
faulty injectors only. On the other side in these 1kd Toyota engines the piston cracks are
suspiciously common and well known. So yes, a faulty injector can cause a crack in the piston, but if
the piston is weak or if it has bad design then it can crack even without an injector failure. This is
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why specifying an only, single and concrete reason for this problem is not really accurate and there
are also many shady variables which can contribute to this.
Injectors?
—Then there are the injectors: the injectors are gonna get worn over time, yes they can work even
after 400 000 km or 500 000 km but their performance is gonna be weaker as the mileage and age
increases and the possibility of failure is gonna increase.
An incorrect injector spray pattern is going to cause wrong combustion and a wrong combustion
is going to increase the chance of a cracked pistons
The faulty injectors can drip fuel which can easily damage the piston as well
And lastly, the injector can end up stuck in open position – so the injector fails and over fuels the
cylinder which can melt the piston and also damage the cylinder wall – but this is pretty rare
“In many cases owners said that bad fuel caused an injector failure and a burnt hole through piston.
Can a bad fuel cause an injector failure? Well, if you are like really unlucky then yes, but this is more
of a side contributor I would say.”
Now you can ask: if I change the injectors do I prevent piston failure? Well no, since you still have the
pistons with seemingly improper/weak design fitted. However with new injectors and with using
good quality fuel you will at least eliminate the incorrect combustion.
The most important thing is a list of things which you can do to minimize the chance of this issue.
Yes, minimize, since you can’t eliminate or avoid it for 100%. (Well actually you can eliminate it, but
only if you replace all the old pistons preventively with the newest updated pistons. But I don’t think
many of the owners are gonna choose this expensive preventative measure… ) So how to minimize
the possibility of cracked pistons?
have the injectors in good condition (have the injectors tested regularly or replace them
preventively)
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use good quality fuel (bad quality or contaminated fuel can also contribute to the piston crack)
avoid engine performance upgrades (but there are also many cases of piston failures on
completely stock cars)
don’t tow very heavy shit (but there are also many cases of piston failures on cars which were
not towing)
don’t use the maximum power of the engine at all or use it only for a very short time
change the engine oil regularly after max 10 000 km (+keep the oil strainer clean)
keep the cooling system in a perfect condition + you should know the temperature of the engine,
exhaust, and gearbox so fitting additional temperature sensors is a good idea as well, and make
sure your radiator is not clogged, the water pump is fine and there is enough coolant
avoid high speed long duration drives – in other words driving on the highway at 160 km/h or
more is NOT a good idea especially in hot weather
Also keep in mind that the high temperature on the top of the pistons is a contributing factor to the
cracks. And high speed, high load(-towing), high rpms and long durations of these are going to
increase the temperature on top of the pistons which is gonna increase the stress and the chance of
cracks. So don’t cruise on the highway at higher speed keeping the RPM past 3000 – in other words
cruising at 140km/h is fine, but cruising at 160 km/h or even faster while keeping the RPMs higher is
not good especially in hot weather!
Lastly I have to highlight that doing all this is not going to eliminate the possibility of piston crack,
but it is gonna at least reduce the chance of it happening ! So In other words even replacing the
injectors preventively, using good quality fuel and paying attention to the other already mentioned
things is not going to eliminate this issue, but it is going to reduce the chance of it happening. And
by the way all these issues also affects the Toyota Hilux from this time equipped with the 1KD
engines.
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-check the frame for excessive rust mainly on cars used on winter salty roads, since the frame on
these cars is going to rust you like it or not. But this rust is usually still not a big concern today,
however in the future it’s definitely going to be a problem if you leave it as is!
“The car can look great from the outside but it can have already a big amount of rust on the frame”
–the front brake caliper pistons can more often rust and seize up: mostly cars used on winter salty
roads. This will cause: uneven brake wear, slightly weaker brake force, eventually noises from the
front brakes. (“the brake caliper piston repair kits are cheap”)
-the wheel bearings can get worn more often mainly in the front even before 200 000 km
-the optional air suspension on the rear axle is gonna sooner or later fail: the air struts are going to
leak and the air compressor is going to break at some point
–there are many cases of usually slight oil leak from the transfer case
–the fuel filler hose under the car can leak (more often on petrol engine cars)
-the turbo actuator can fail, as well as the EGR on the 1KD engine, the turbo actuator can fail
causing: limp mode/loss of power and a P1251 fault code, the actuator can be replaced separately
– you can buy it under $500
–SCV valve can fail on the 1KD engine, causing: limp mode/loss of power, weak acceleration, check
engine light, bad engine starts
-water leaks in the trunk can occur because of the trunk door seal or because of the 3rd brake light
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-the dashboard is going to crack sooner or later if it’s not cracked already
“REPLACE THE GLOW PLUGS IN DIESEL ENGINES AT LEAST EVERY 100 000 km, mainly
preventively because sometimes the glow plug tip can fall off into the combustion chamber and
that’s obviously not good.”
That would be it I guess. But if you still don’t know what to do and if you are still completely
confused, let me summarize the things up a bit:
If you are buying any of the 1KD engines then right after buying you should definitely:
if the oil pickup strainer is clogged → then remove the oil pan and clean the strainer + replace the
injector washers + have the injectors at least tested or replace them if you want to be on the safe
side
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if the oil pickup strainer is clean, but you don’t have any solid proof that the injectors or the
washers were replaced in the past → then consider removing the injectors to have them at least
tested + replace the injector washers and seals, but if you want to be on the very safe side then
replace all the injectors
-if you don’t want to spend money then at least pay attention to the faulty injector symptoms
-if you are frightened from the piston crack issue then choose a car made before 2006 which is not
complying with the Euro 4 emission norms
And if you have personal experience with this car or if I fucked something up then you can write it
into comments!
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TAGS 1KD reliability 1KD-FTV 1KZ-TE 4x4 5L-E cracked piston D-4D diesel engine issues
injectors J120 J150 Land Cruiser Land cruiser problems land cruiser weak points off road Prado
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prado common issues SUV Toyota Toyota common problems toyota land cruiser reliability
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6 COMMENTS
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smaller chance of this issue than on the older engines the latest updated piston version
for these engines was introduced in 2017 - this version should be the most durable
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