TEXTILE AND APPAREL

QUALITY EVALUATION
COURSE OUTCOMES
At the end of the study of the course the student should be able to,
• Elucidate the various principles and methods are used for
yarn properties testing.
• Describe the different methods and procedure is used for
fabric testing properties.
• Discuss the basic terms and definition of apparel testing and
methods of evaluation.
• Discuss the basic terms and definition and procedures of
Quality, Inspection Quality Assurance and Control forms.
• Elaborate on the quality control for Fabrics, QC in Garment
Manufacturing Processes,Quality Standards and Tolerances.
UNIT I Fibre and Yarn Testing 9
• Fibre Testing: Testing of cotton using the rapid fibre
testing methods, high Volume Instrument (HVI) and
AFIS.
• Yarn count and Strength: Definitions of count, yarn
numbering system, determination of yarn count using
wrap reel. Count Strength Product and single yarn
strength.
• Yarn Twist: Definitions of twist, determination of twist
of single and ply yarn.
• Yarn Evenness and Hairiness: Yarn appearance board
winder. Classification of variations in yarn, methods of
measuring yarn evenness and hairiness, Uster evenness
tester.
Unit II Fabric Testing 9
• Fabric Strength Testing: Fabric tensile strength tester,
tearing strength tester, hydraulic bursting strength tester.
• Fabric Performance Testing: Martindale abrasion
resistance tester.
• Fabric pilling: ICI pillbox tester.
• Fabric Drape and Stiffness: Definition of drape and
stiffness, drape meter, Shirley stiffness tester, fabric
crease resistance and crease recovery tester.
• Fabric Permeability: Terms in air permeability and
water permeability tester. MVTR, MMT, thermal
conductivity and resistance, liquid penetration.
UNIT III Apparel Testing 8
• Seam Strength: Definition of seam strength, seam
puckering, seam slippage and evaluation of interlining
quality. Standards for above testing methods.
• Apparel testing: Dimensional stability, durable press
evaluation, Snap / button pull strength testing. Testing
procedures for various functional finishes like anti-
microbial, flame retardant.
UNIT IV Quality, Inspection, Quality Assurance and
Control forms 9
Quality:
• Introduction, definition, control of quality and its
necessity.
Inspection:
• Importance of inspection, types of inspection: raw
material inspection, in-process inspection, final
inspection, 100% inspection, sampling inspection,
comparison of 100% and sampling inspections.
• AQL Standards, basic calculations, self-inspection
method. definition of minor, major and critical faults.
UNIT V Quality Control and Quality Standards 10
• QC for fabrics: Quality control for knitted and woven
fabrics, types of defects in fabrics, major, minor and critical
faults, fabric inspection system, 4 point and 10 point system.
• Quality assurance: Definition, differences between quality
assurance and inspection, inspection agencies. Control
forms.
• Quality Standards and Tolerances: Quality standards and
tolerances and for fabrics, spreading, cutting, stitching in
garment industry, tolerances and quality standards for
finished garments.
• Quality assurance system and standards for packing and
packed goods.
TEXT BOOKS
• Angappan P and R.Gopalakrishnan , “Textile Testing”-S.S.M.I.T.T Co-op stores
Ltd.,2007.
• Koushik C.V. and R. Chandrasekaran, “Textile Testing”-NCUTE publication, New
Delhi, 2004.
• Jacob Solinger, “Apparel Manufacturing Handbook”, Prentice Hall, New Jersey,
1993.
REFERENCES
• J. E. Booth, “Principles of Textile Testing”, CBS Publishers and Distributors, New
Delhi, 1996.
• B. P. Saville, “Physical Testing of Textiles”, CRC Woodhead Publishing, New
Delhi 1999.
• V.K. Kothari, “Quality Control and Testing Management”, IAFL Publications,
New Delhi, 1999.
• Samuel Eilon, “Production Planning and Control”, Macmillan, New York, 1962.
• Grover E. G. and Hamby D. S., “Hand Book of Textile Testing and Quality
Control”, Wiley Eastern Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi, 1969.
• Pradip V. Mehta, “An Introduction to Quality Control for the Apparel
Industry”, Dekker, 1992.
 Textile Testing
Definition:
• Applying engineering knowledge and science
to detect the criteria and properties of any
textile material or product (such as fibre, yarn,
fabric)
Objectives of testing
• To check the quality and suitability of raw
material
• To monitor the production (process control)
• To assess the quality of final product
• To investigate the faulty materials
• To set standards or benchmarks
• For R&D (research and development) purpose
• For new product development
Importance of Testing
• To ensure the product quality
• To control the manufacturing process
• For customer satisfaction and retention
• Good reputation (brand image) among
consumers
Reasons for Textile Testing:
• Checking the raw material for following aspects
– The quality
– Suitability and
– Selection
•  Monitoring of production i.e. process control.
• Assessment of final product, whether the quality is acceptable
or not, (how will be the yarn performance in weaving? etc).
• Investigation of faulty materials (analysis of customer
complaint, identification of fault in machine etc.).
• Product development and research.
• Specification testing: Specifications are formed and the
materials are tested to prove whether they fall within the
limits allowed in the specification
 TERMS RELATED TO TEXTILE EVALUATION
QUALITY: International Organization for Standardization
(ISO)
• “Ensemble of properties and characteristics of a product or a
service which confer on it the capacity to satisfy expressed or
implicit requirements” - “suitable for use” or “fitness for use”.
TESTING
• A means of determining the capability of an item to meet specified
requirements by subjecting the item to a set of physical, chemical,
environmental or operating actions, and conditions
INSPECTION
• Activities such as measuring, examining, testing, one or more
characteristics of a product or service, and comparing these with
specified requirements to determine conformity (end breakage
study in R/F, looms, fabric inspection etc).
QUALITY CONTROL
• The operational technique and activities used to fulfill
requirements of quality D = f (B, C …)
STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL (SQC)
• The application of statistical technique to the control of
quality.
QUALITY ASSURANCE (QA)
• All those planned or systematic actions necessary to
provide adequate confidence that a product or service will
satisfy given requirement for quality. (Control of vendors
for supply of raw material, chemicals etc., time
management, e.g. idle time of m/c)
Testing methods (sources of testing standards)
• It is mostly help to test the quality of material
and also different method used to carry out a test.
• Different principles and instruments may be
employed to test a single criterion.
• Therefore , standardize the testing methods or
procedures is very important.
• For that purpose, variouse national and
international organizations involved to
establishing the standards of textile testing.
Name of the organization
The following organization is used for set up the
standards for textile testing
• AATCC - American Association of Textile Chemists
and Colorists
• ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials
• ANSI - American National Standards Institute
• ISO - International Organization for Standardization
• BSI - British Standards Institute
• BIS - Bureau of Indian Standards
• BS EN - British Standard European Norm
• IS - Indian Standards
• Fibre Testing: Testing of cotton using the
rapid fibre testing methods, high Volume
Instrument (HVI) and AFIS.
Learning outcomes:
1. Demonstrate the working principle of HVI and
AFIS
2. Describe the various parameters are evaluate
using HVI and AFIS
High-volume instrument (HVI)
• HVI is the most advanced instrument for testing of fibre
properties
• Its developed by USTER
• It offers precise and reliable automated operation with
computer controlled calibration and diagnostics. 
• All functions are controlled by dedicated
microprocessors to simplify operation and to provide
flexibility in testing parameters.
Reason
• Possible of getting errors and consuming more time are
high in manual operations
 In total, there are five companies manufacturing
rapid instrument testing machines in the world,
1. USTER Technologies, Inc.,
2. Premier Evolvics Pvt. Ltd.,
3. Lintronics (China, Mainland)
4. Changing Technologies (China, Mainland)
5. Statex Engineering (India).
The Uster HVI system measures :
• Fibre length - 2.5% and 50% span length
• Fibre strength 
• Length uniformity
• Elongation 
• Micronaire - Maturity Ratio, Percentage of Maturity,
Fineness
• Color  Rd+b
• Trash
• UV status and colour Rd+b.
• It also provides uniformity ratio, short fibre percentage,
mean length, upper-half mean length, uniformity index
and fibrogram.
ADVANTAGES:
• The results are practically independent of the
operator.
• The results are based on large volume samples, and
are therefore more significant.
• The time for testing per sample is 0.3 minutes. The
respective fibre data are immediately available.
• About 180 samples per hour can be tested and that
too with only 2 operators.
• The data are clearly arranged in summarised
reports.
• They make possible the best utilisation of raw
material data.
• It is best applied to instituting optimum condition for
raw material.
• Problems as a result of fibre material can be
predicted, and corrective measures instituted before
such problems can occur.
• The classing of cotton and the laying down of a mix
in the spinning mill. This HVI testing is suitable for
the extensive quality control of all the bales
processed in a spinning mill.
• The mill is in a position to determine its own quality
level within a certain operating range.
Principle of HVI
• HVI systems are based on the fibre bundle
testing
• The fibre bundle testing means many fibres are
checked at the same time and their average
values are determined.
HVI 900 system modules:
• The HVI 900 system is housed in two floor-standing
cabinets:
• The larger cabinet contains the Length/Strength
Module.
• The smaller cabinet contains the Micronaire,
Color/Trash and NIR Modules 
• A system may include any combination of the
following measuring modules:
• Length / Strength Module
• Micronaire Module 
• Color/ Trash Module
USTER® HVI 1000
• The USTER® HVI testing system uses the
latest measurement technology for the testing
of large quantities of cotton samples within a
short time.
• It is a high-performance system that permits the
annual classification of entire cotton crops.
Application range:
• 100% cotton samples in the form of bale or
opened and cleaned material (card mat).
 The following features are provided with the
USTER®HVI1000:
• Two targeted models of the USTER® HVI 1000 are
available, each meeting the needs of a specific group
of customers.
• Measures all the important quality parameters
currently used in the cotton trade: micronaire, fiber
length, length uniformity, strength, color and trash.
• Patented Comb Moisture measuring sample moisture
content where it counts at the length/strength sample.
• Patented Xenon flash for unrivaled color
measurement.
• Automatic sampling system for unrivaled
accuracy in length and strength measurement.
• Optional nep and UV fluorescence modules.
• Additional information on short fibers, cotton
maturity and sample moisture content are also
evaluated.
• 3.700 samples can be tested per 8-hour shift
Main Equipment:
• Length/Strength, Moisture Content, Micronaire and
Color/Trash Instruments.
Computer Software:
• The USTER®HVI 1000 is a menu driven design that
allows quick access and selection of testing, setup,
calibration, and data management.
These features include:
• Windows XP operating system with icon-based software
• Simple user interface
• Error messages for troubleshooting
• Network capabilities
Computer Hardware:
• Computer system with 2.8 GHz PC with 512 MB
RAM, P&P Sound Card, DVD-R drive, 1.44 MB (3.5-
inch) Floppy Disk Drive, 60 GB or better hard drive,
and Pentium P4 processor
• Keyboard with Integrated Touchpad
• 17” High Resolution Flat Panel LCD Monitor with
Integrated Sound Bar
• Balance
• Printer
• Integrated Bar Code Scanner
Available Options:
• Barcode Reader (M700)
• UPS – Uninterrupted Power Supply device
• UV Module
• NEP Module
Measurements and Calculations
Micronaire:
• Micronaire Reading - Measured by relating airflow
resistance to the specific surface of fibers.
Maturity:
• Maturity Ratio - Calculated using a sophisticated
algorithm based on several HVI™ measurements.
Length:
Upper Half Mean Length, Uniformity Index, Short Fiber
Index - Measured optically in a tapered fiber beard
which is automatically prepared, carded, and brushed.
Strength and Elongation:
• Strength is measured physically by clamping a fiber
bundle between 2 pairs of clamps at known distance.
• The second pair of clamps pulls away from the first pair
at a constant speed until the fiber bundle breaks.
• The distance it travels, extending the fiber bundle before
breakage, is reported as elongation
Moisture content
• It is measured using conductive moisture probe.
Colour − (Rd(whiteness), +b (yellowness), colour
grade)
• Measured optically by different colour filters,
converted to USD Upland or Pima colour grades
or regional customized colour chart.
Trash −( Particle count, % surface area covered
by trash, Trash code)
• Measured optically by utilizing a digital camera,
and converted to USDA trash grades or
customized regional trash standards
Additional features include the following:
• Safety interlocks to prevent injury from unauthorized
entry to the instrument
• Relative humidity and temperature probe
• Moisture measurement
• Easily accessible lint and waste box with two separate
access doors
• Computer system can be easily removed for service
• Industrial brushed stainless steel top and work surfaces
• Single-point adjustable brush pressure
• Integrated air enclosure around balance to eliminate
influences of air turbulence
• Password-protected operational software.
Strength
• The fibre are selected randomly from a fibre
chamber, where the sample is placed.
• The selected fibre is combed automatically to
remove any loose fibres and straighten them.
• Fibre is placed between the jaws.
• Gauge length is 1/8 inches.
• The unit of strength is g/tex.
Micronaire
The air flow principle is used to measure the
micronaire value of the fibre.
Colour grade
• Greyness - Amount of light reflected from mass
of the fibre (Rd)
• Yellowness – Measured by means of nickerson
hunter cotton colour chart (+b).
Trash content
• Measured by means of video analysis on bulk
fibre surface.
• The number or count of the dark spots
• The percentage of surface area covered by the
dark spots as area.
ADVANCED FIBRE
INFORMATION
SYSTEM. (AFIS)
• In textile industry raw material is the most dominant
factor as it contributes 50-75% in total manufacturing
cost.
• In quality conscious scenario, quality of raw material
plays a vital role. But the quality of raw material is
decided by measuring its properties.
• Now measurement through conventional techniques is
very laborious and time consuming.
• Hence the researchers focus their attention towards
the inventions of such instrument, which gives
accurate and quick result and one of the wonderful
development is AFIS
Principle:
• It is based on aeromechanical fibre processing
• It is similar to opening and carding, followed
by electro-optical sensing and then by high
speed microprocessor based computing and
data reporting
Components
• Motor/blower
• Lint/waste box
• Control system/control board
– Monutoring
– Controlling
– Connecting
• Fibre individulizer
• software
• A fibre sample is introduced into the system and is
processed through a fibre individualizer, which aero
mechanically separates the sample into three
components consisting of
– Cleaned fibre,
– Microdust, and
– Trash.
• Pneumatic path used for transport the each of these
components in a separate way
• Components analyzed by electro-optically or other
means.
• The data processing and reporting are handled by an
industrialized PC.
• AFIS provides basic single fibre information
and is distinguished from earlier and existing
methods by providing distributions of the basic
fibre properties.
• These distribution measurements provide more
accurate, precise, and basic information about
fibre.
I) Lengths by number (n):
• Fibre length by number is the length of the
individual fibres.
• This method measures the length of each fibre
and places them into length categories.
• These categories are added together to obtain
the length measurement for short fibre and
average or mean length.
• Length by number measurements is pure
measurements that are not influenced by the
weight of the fibres.
• In textile processing, it is recommended that the
length by number be used to determine machine
and equipment settings and also to determine
fibre damage as represented by short fibre
content.
• Instrument such as the AFIS is capable of
providing the length by number information
• The AFIS fibre individualizer is shown in Similar to a
carding machine
• The fibres are opened and cleaned using
specially designed, pinned and perforated
cylinders.
• Airflow into the perforations of the cylinder
allows for thorough engagement and efficient
dust and trash removal.
• A specimen of fibre is hand teased into a sliver-
like strand and is inserted into the feed assembly.
• It passes between a spring-loaded feed roll/feed
plate assembly and is engaged by the pinned and
perforated cylinder.
• The fibres are combed and carded; dust is
released and removed through the perforations
in the cylinder.
• Trash is released after the carding action by the
"counter flow" separation slot.
• Heavy trash particles are separated from fibres
and transported out of the system, whereas, the
smaller dust and fibres are returned to the
cylinder aerodynamically by the air drawn into
the slot, thus the term "counter flow slot".
• Fibres enter the electro-
optical unit and are
straightened and aligned
to proper orientation to
the source detector.
• Fibres scanned by a
beam of light.
• The fibres scatter and
block the light in
proportion to their
optical diameter and in
direct relation to their
time of flight through the
sampling volume.
• Source light detects the total fibre characteristics.
Fibre length
• The speed of flow, and time required to cross this line,
then it is basically we can calculate the length.
The conical method of tube
• its ensured the straightening fibre.
• This fibre moves in straight.
• The light scattering technique is used to measure, the
diameter and also the shape of the fibre.
• Generally, rectangular waveforms are produced by
the light scattered by individual fires.
• Nep signals are much greater in magnitude and
duration; they generate a characteristic nep ‘spike’.
• Trash particles produce smaller spiked waveforms
which are distinguishable from neps in magnitude
and durations.
• From these waveforms, which are microseconds in
duration, the required data are obtained, analyzed
and stored in the memory of the computer.
• Distributions based on size, length or diameter can
be calculated.
 Term Definition Application
L(w) Mean length by weight Comparable to HVI 50% Span
Length
L(w)CV Coefficient of Variation for
% Length by Weight
distribution
SFC%(w) Short Fibre Content % by Comparable to HVI SFI
Weight less than ½ inch
UQL(w) Upper Quartile Length by Comparable to HVI UHML,
Weight Staple and 2.5% Span length
L(n) Mean Length by Number Monitor fibre length in spinning
L(n)CV% Coefficient of Variation for Control of fibre variation in
Length distribution carding and combing
SFC(n) Short Fibre Content % by Control fibre damage in
Number less than ½ inch opening, carding and combing
 Term Definition Application
5%(n) Longest of 5% of the fibre Machine Settings
lengths

1%(n) Longest of 1% of the fibre Machine Settings

lengths

D(n) Average Diameter of the Micronaire estimate;

fibres by number Man-made fibre diameter

D(n)CV% Coefficient of Variation for Estimate of distribution

fibre diameter for micronaire or denier

D(n)CV% Mean length by weight Comparable to HVI 50%

Span Length
 Term Definition Application
Neps Fibre entanglements Causes imperfections in
yarn and fabric
Nep Count Number of neps in one Analysis of processing
gram of material equipment
Nep Size “Average” nep diameter in Determines impact on
microns yarn and fabric
Count/gram Coefficient of variation Determines the number of
CV% between sample repetitions repetitions necessary for
good statistical
confidence level
Nep Equipment evaluation
Removal and comparison
Efficiency
 Term Definition Application

Total count All particles counted Estimation of trash levels

Trash count All particles larger than Estimation of trash levels;

500 microns Cleaning efficiency of
machines

Dust count All particles less than 500 Dust removal analysis
microns
Total Foreign Calculation of Total Comparison to
Matter Foreign Matter gravimetric methods
(TFM)

Size Average Size of all Trash and Cleaning

particles in microns classifications
Maturity and Fineness
• Maturity and fineness of cotton fibres obtained by
measuring the profile characteristics of the fibre by
suitable electro-optical means.
Circularity
• The degree of thickening which is calculated by the
cross-sectional area of the fibre wall divided by the
area of a circle of the same perimeter.
Theta
• The average circularity of the measured fibres;
alternatively called, degree of thickening. (Both
circularity and are exactly the same, as discussed
under Maturity earlier).
Fin (mtex)
• Average fibre fineness (weight per unit length) in
millitex.
IFC (%)
• Immature fibre content in percentage; percentage
of fibres with less than 0.25 circularity; the lower
the IFC %, the better is the fibre.
Maturity
• Maturity Ratio is the ratio of fibres with a 0.5 or
more circularity ratio divided by the amount of
fibres with 0.25 or less circularity. The higher the
maturity ratio, the more mature are the fibres.
Fineness:
• 125 to 175 - Fine
• 175 to 200 - Average
• 200 to 250 - Coarse
• Above 250 - Very course
Immature cotton fibre %
• 4 to 8 % - Very mature
• 8 to 12 % - Average mature
• 12 to 18 % - High immature
Maturity ratio
• Below 0.7 - Uncommon
• 0.7 to 0.8 - Immature
• 0.8 to 1.0 - Mature
• Above 1.0 - Very mature
Nep classification module
• Fibre neps
• Seed coat neps
Trash Module
• Total count - All particles counted
• Trash count - All particles larger than 500 mm
• Dust count - All particles less than 500 mm
• Total Foreign matter
• Size - Average size of all particles in mm