Inca Sacred Space:
Landscape, Site and Symbol
in the Andes
Frank Meddens, Katie Willis, Colin McEwan
and Nicholas Branch Editors
Archetype Publications
c/o International Academic Projects
1 Birdcage Walk, London SW1H 9JJ
Avril 2014
Chapter 19
Choqek’iraw and its Ceremonial Platform called
‘Ushnu’
Patrice Lecoq and Thibault Saintenoy
Introduction
Situated in the heart of the cordillera of Vilcabamba in Peru,
some 160 km northwest of Cusco, the site of Choquequirao,
or Choqek’iraw (‘the golden cradle’ in Quechua) is one of
the most beautiful achievements of Inca architecture. Like
Machu Picchu, it is a palace with a very fine architecture
and an elaborate civic plan that is perfectly incorporated
in the landscape.
Located on the borders of the departments of Cusco and
Apurímac, Choqek’iraw stands at an altitude of 3200 m on
the crest and steep slopes of a mountainous spur on the
massif of the same name. It harbours countless architectural
remains: terraces, temples, warehouses, fountains and
canals, as well as a truncated hill local archaeologists have
termed ‘ushnu’ – even if it is not the type of feature generally referred to as such in the archaeological literature.
This chapter will argue that, in spite of its appearance,
this hillock has most of the characteristics of the Inca ceremonial platforms much of the archaeological literature
has termed ‘ushnu’. Apart from its architectural meaning,
the concept of ‘ushnu’ also refers to a complex symbolic
notion, closely connected to the idea of the centre of a
‘sacred space’ (sensu Eliade 2010 [1957]), which could
well apply to the case of the site of Choqek’iraw.
Figure 19.1 Map of the Choqek’iraw region (image © T. Saintenoy and P. Lecoq).
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Plate 19.1 General view of Choqek’iraw (photo © P. Lecoq).
Location
Choqek’iraw is positioned in the heart of the principal interAndean Valley in southern Peru where the waters of the
Apurímac flow. In its central section this valley forms a
deep canyon at the foot of the cordillera of Vilcabamba, a
vast massif in the eastern cordillera with multiple summits
covered in permanent snow (Fig. 19.1). Located on a
meander in the river, Choqek’iraw can be recognised from
afar due largely to its truncated hill that exactly marks its
position (Plate 19.1). To the northwest it is overlooked
by the great massif of Qoriwayrachina (‘the gold-melting
furnace’) also called ‘Yanaqucha’ (‘Black Lagoon’) and
‘Markani’ (town or village). It is surrounded by numerous snow-covered peaks such as the cerros Pumasillo and
Choqetakarpu to the north, Huiracochan to the northwest,
Ampay to the south and Salqantay to the northeast, which
the inhabitants of neighbouring villages consider to be
sacred places and the homes of their ancestors’ souls – the
apus (Reinhard 1983b, 1985a, 2002a).
General description of the site
Plate 19.2 View of the Choqek’iraw ceremonial platform (photo © P.
Lecoq).
Choqek’iraw comprises a vast architectural complex
stretching over 100 ha with various edifices forming several
central and peripheral quarters, today divided into 13
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Figure 19.2 Site map of the Choqek’iraw architectural complex (adapted from COPESCO 2002, 2005).
sectors and several sub-sectors. Some, still buried under
the vegetation, have not been mapped. The most numerous
and best preserved are in the urban core covering 11 ha.
A truncated hill about 50 m high dominates the complex.
Its summit is crowned by a vast oval-shaped esplanade of
about 1500 m², bordered by a small parapet open at two
opposite points in the northeast and southwest. Two paths
serve as ramps giving access to the esplanade. As a whole
it resembles a monumental platform (Plate 19.2).
The organisation of the districts or moieties
As was the case with the former Inca capital, Cusco, the
urban core of Choqek’iraw seems to have been organised
into two districts or moieties: the hanan or upper district
and the hurin or lower district (Fig. 19.2). The hanan district
contains various buildings and fountains grouped around a
plaza, as well as kallanka and two-storey buildings, collca
(storehouses). A series of short terraces fed by a whole
network of canals was also constructed.
The hurin district includes several buildings and kallanka
again organised around a large square. Against the esplanade a group of three large, two-storey constructions and
some small ones may have formed an elite residence. In
the south, a monumental structure stands with a façade
pierced with trapezoidal double-jambed openings, as
well as the door giving access to the truncated hill. A large
fountain occupies the west part of the square. Like all the
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Figure 19.3 Choqek’iraw’s ceremonial platform (image © T. Saintenoy adapted from COPESCO 2005).
other sources, it is fed by a long canal originating several
kilometres uphill in the quebrada Chunchumayu from
where the meltwaters from the nevado that crowns the
mountain of Choqek’iraw flow. Traversing it from north to
south, this canal is the main artery of the site (Samanez
Argumendo and Zapata Rodriguez 1999). The farthest
part of Choqek’iraw’s southern slope consists of several
constructions including a corral, a fountain and a group
of large buildings facing one another called the ‘House of
the Priests’.
Most of the buildings on this site are oriented to the
cardinal points or the surrounding mountains. Domestic
residences and various workshops (weaving and goldworking according to Cori del Mar 2005 and Gallegos
2005), structures with rectangular and circular plans,
occupy the site’s east slope (Lecoq 2008).
The terraces
Large terrace systems, constructed both for aesthetic and
agricultural purposes, climb up both of Choqek’iraw’s
slopes, the most notable being those east of the top half
of the site. Another complex of much narrower terraces
extends below in the centre of which a two level, singleroomed building stands called ‘the Waterfall House’,
named after the fall to the northeast that collects the waters
of the Chunchumayu quebrada. Countless minuscule terraces were also built on the site’s western slope. Twenty-five
of them are decorated with mosaics showing geometric
motifs and camelids with the stones arranged vertically in
the masonry of the wall evoking the weft of a textile or an
unku. The nature and disposition of these various motifs on
the terraces – in addition to their orientation towards the
peaks of the cerro Wiraquchan – are reasons for believing
that they may have represented an agro-pastoral calendar
(Lecoq 2010, 2013).
Sources on the history of Choqek’iraw
The study of the ethnohistorical sources of the sixteenth
century mentioning Choqek’iraw and its environs suggests
it was one of the royal estates of the Inca Thupa Yupanki
(Duffait 2005, 2007: 214–26). In the Inca period, the valley
of the Apurímac formed a ‘frontier’ between the Chanka
and Kichwa provinces of Chinchaysuyu, and the cordillera of Vilcabamba. These provinces, named after the
autochthonous ethnic groups who had their origins there,
were traversed by the Capac Ñan (main Inca road) along
which about 10 administrative centres named tampu were
established (Vaca de Castro 1989 [1543]). Among these
were Vilkas, Curampa, Abancay and Limatambo, to which
we shall refer again. As for the Vilcabamba cordillera, it
formed a single territory of Tahuantinsuyu in which the
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sovereigns granted themselves several domains – including
Choqek’iraw. Among other functions, these royal domains
had an undeniably religious dimension (Niles 2004).
The planning of this site to precise standards – including
temples, fountains, a ceremonial platform and terraces decorated with mosaics imitating textiles (Lecoq 2010) – was
probably intended to materialise the world-vision of the
sovereign who had erected it. However, it is currently
difficult to determine whether Pachacuti or his successor
Thupa Yupanki founded Choqek’iraw (Saintenoy 2011).
In any case, the excavations we have carried out in two
sectors, including a few domestic residential structures,
have revealed that the site was already occupied during
the Late Intermediate Period, or even perhaps as early as
the Middle Horizon (Lecoq 2004, 2008).
Throughout the nineteenth century, several explorers, among whom were Eugène de Sartiges (Lavandais
1851), Léonce Angrand (1972) and Charles Wiener (1993
[1880]), visited the site or mentioned it in their works. In
1909 Hiram Bingham (1910) carried out excavations in
the central quarters. At the summit of the truncated hill he
brought to light rectangular geometric figures constructed
with small stones stuck vertically in the ground (Zapata
Rodriguez 2005: 121), which may demonstrate the importance of the ceremonial plaza, although their exact function
remains unknown (Fig 19.3). Are they vestiges analogous
to those found on ceremonial platforms in other regions
of the Andes, where in general wells, basins and huanca
or other sculptures are found? Was this truncated hill an
observatory, as certain local archaeologists propose, and
what is the origin of the name ushnu they have ascribed to
it? Looking at the ceremonial platforms of Inca settlements
in the vicinity of Choqek’iraw provides us with some clues
as to the role it probably played.
The ceremonial platform of Choqek’iraw:
a typical Inca ceremonial platform?
The Inca sites of Vilcashuamán, Curampa, Ushnu Moq’o,
Saywite and Tarawasi located on the old Inca road of
Chinchaysuyu joining Vilcashuamán to Cusco all include
the (quite well preserved) remains of platforms many
archaeologists agree to call ‘ushnu’ (although see Zuidema,
this volume and Coben, this volume). This was the term
several chroniclers used for the fine masonry platforms
on which, during major ceremonies, the Inca would sit
enthroned, ‘so as to see and be seen by all’ (Guaman Poma
1615: 398; Betanzos 1987 [1551]: 185). Many sacrifices,
especially libations ‘in homage to the sun’ (Albornoz 1967
[1581–5]: 24) were made on the esplanade (Pino Matos
2010). According to Juan de Santa Cruz Pachacuti Yamqui
(1993 [1613]: 245), the monumental platforms of the greatest Inca centres were named ‘capac usnu’ (‘great ushnu’ in
Quechua). But ceremonial platforms also existed outside
the major settlements. According to the same author (ibid.:
248), the Incas had ‘ushnu’ built ‘in all the valleys’ – an
account confirmed most notably by Bertonio (1984
[1612]: I, 41) who points out that these ‘altars of huaca’
can also be found ‘isolated in the puna’.
On the great Inca sites near Choqek’iraw, the ‘capac
usnu’ ceremonial platforms correspond to stepped pyramids with orthogonal plans and variable dimensions and
height (Van de Guchte, 1990; Gonzáles Carré et al. 1996;
Heffernan 1996; Oberti 1997; Del Mar Ismodes 2006). That
of Vilcashuamán (today the most spectacular survivor) has
four to five levels, the one at Abancay has three levels, that
of Curampa, two, and that of Saywite and Tarawasi, only
one. All have a stairway leading to their top esplanade,
which is generally bordered by a parapet. At Vilcashuamán,
access to the platform is gained through a double-jambed
gateway. At Saywite and Tarawasi the façade of the platform
is decorated with niches, which may have represented an
access to the underworld.
Although the truncated hill of Choqek’iraw is not a
stepped pyramid platform, it has the same characteristics
as those listed above, which leads one to suppose it was
a monument of a similar nature. If this was the case, it
remains to be seen why the architects of Choqek’iraw
preferred to modify a hill rather than build a stepped
pyramid at the site.
The truncated hill of Choqek’iraw is not an isolated
example. The sites of Sondor near Andahuaylas and
Choqek’iraw pukiu at Cusco also include hills converted
into ceremonial platforms. Quite apart from their form,
both have the same characteristics as the Inca ceremonial
platforms called ‘ushnu’. At Sondor, the hill has a stairway,
a parapet borders its summit esplanade and concentric terraces cover its slopes. Two large stones stand on its summit.
It is probably a huaca of which the position – facing the
massif of Campanayuq and the lagoon of Paqucha to
the west, as well as the setting sun at the solstices and
equinoxes – seems to indicate that this platform played the
role of an astronomic observatory (McKim Malville 2010).
As for the hillock of Choqek’iraw pukiu, it is circular
in form but, like the stepped pyramids, has several levels.
This place was one of the Cusco’s huaca located on the
fourth ceque of Antisuyu. According to Bernabé Cobo, it
was a spring emanating from a ravine at the foot of the hill
to which homage was paid by sacrificing llamas and fine
textiles (Zuidema 1974/76: 213; 1978a; Bauer 2000).
To resume, it is tempting to think that both types of
features – the stepped pyramids (capac usnu) and the
converted hills – expressed the same architectural concept.
If no platform exists at Choqek’iraw and Sondor, it was
certainly because there was no point in building a ‘constructed’ platform on these sites given the existing relief.
This hypothesis is even more credible if it is considered that
the Inca stepped pyramids were, as Frank Meddens (1997:
7) proposes on the basis of Joseph Bastien’s ethnography
(1996), an allegorical representation of mountains.
The recent discovery, at the summit of mountains surrounding Choqek’iraw, of two platforms with characteristics
very similar to the one on this site seems to support this
hypothesis. The first, named Qoriwayrachina – identified
on the site during surveys carried out in the region in 2007
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Plate 19.3 Mount Yanaqucha: the ‘black lagoon; which dominates the site of Choqek’iraw, ‘the golden cradle’ (photo © P. Lecoq).
(Saintenoy 2008, 2011) – is located at 4150 m on the
summit of a foothill of the massif of Ampay facing the spur
of Choqek’iraw. With an ovoid plan it extends over 300 m2,
and is bordered by a parapet having two opposite openings,
north and south. The second, reported by Peter Frost in
2002, is right in the heart of the Vilcabamba cordillera in
the Yanama Valley. It crowns the summit of the Victoria
mountain where the remains of several Inca settlements
doubtless belonging to the same domain as Choqek’iraw
have also been found. The esplanade of about 300 m2 is
also ovoid in form and bordered by a parapet open at two
opposite points – southwest and northeast. On each side
some 10 steps lead up to the esplanade; as Frost (2003)
remarks, as the esplanade is surrounded by cliffs, constructing steps here is essentially symbolic.
Just like Choqek’iraw, both of these natural platforms
and/or truncated mountains have structures built on their
surface. At Qoriwayrachina there are a few flat stones fixed
in the ground brought to light by looters; at cerro Victoria,
an indentation, approximately 1.5 × 3 m by 1 m deep,
near the centre of the platform, contains very large stone
slabs that could have belonged to a structure constructed
on this floor. Thus it does seem that the ovoid platforms
crowning certain summits in the middle Apurímac Valley
belong to the same architectural tradition. In spite of their
shape, their characteristics show they were examples of
the same architectural concept as the Inca ceremonial
platforms called ushnu. Crowning the mountains, they
expressed this concept in monumental form on the scale
of the Andean landscape.
The landscape of Choqek’iraw
Clinging onto a mountainous spur with vertiginous relief
at the foot of the Qoriwayrachina glacier and directly
above the Apurímac river flowing some 2000 m below,
the location of Choqek’iraw is spectacular. The site is in
the heart of a landscape of surrounding massifs, of which
the principal summits are permanently under snow cover,
as well as being delimited by the Apurímac river; undoubtedly these factors would have had particular meanings for
Inca culture.
The cordillera’s very name – Vilcabamba – has a
symbolic connotation. The term ‘vilca’ refers to sacred
notions such as the sun, gold and the tree Anadenanthera
colubrina with its psychotropic fruits consumed for ritual
purposes (Bertonio 1984 [1612]: II, 386). Without doubt,
in Tahuantinsuyu, it was a sacred cordillera. In the Inca
period, the Salqantay mountain, its highest peak and territorial emblem, was treated as a powerful divinity (Pachacuti
Yamqui 1993 [1613]), a ‘wak’a paqarisqa’ (‘the source
spirit’), according to Albornoz (1967 [1581–5]: 28). Even
today it is still at the centre of religious beliefs in certain
communities of Cusco and Apurímac (Nuñez del Prado
1970, 1983).
As for the Apurímac river, the ‘Great Lord who speaks’
in Quechua, it was an object of devotion of equal importance in this sacred landscape of the Incas. Apparently, it
was of great importance in the territorial representation
system as it symbolised the limit of the Cusco territory
(Molinié Fioravanti 1988; Farrington 1992; Saintenoy
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Figure 19.4 Choqek’iraw’s horizon viewed from the top of the ceremonial platform, showing the position of the
sun during the solstices, and the ‘symbolic’ position of the Apurímac river (image © T. Saintenoy).
2013). According to Inca myths, one of the great oracles
of Tahuantinsuyu was associated with the river (Cieza de
León 1946 [1553]: 151; Pizarro 1978 [1571]: 81–2). So it
is hardly surprising that the Incas chose to locate the palace
of Choqek’iraw in the heart of this sacred landscape (Lecoq
2010; Saintenoy 2011). And that is perhaps why a number
of buildings are oriented towards the principal summits
and other sacred elements in this landscape such as rivers
or springs.
The same applies to the truncated hill, which offers an
exceptional panorama of the horizon of surrounding peaks
from the esplanade. Being so near, the nevado Yanaqucha
as seen from Choqek’iraw seems to ‘spring’ from a cradle
formed by the spur’s ridge line (Plate 19.3). In the twilight, it takes on the golden colour of the setting sun, a
phenomenon, already remarked upon by Bingham (1910),
which could explain the name ‘Choqek’iraw’ – ‘the golden
cradle’.
In the west, several other imposing summits stand out
on the horizon, such as the snowy peak of Sorani in the
heart of the cordillera of Vilcabamba, the great glacier
on the summit of Kitay, and to the northwest, the three
peaks crowning Wiraquchan, of which the name refers
among others to one of the principal Inca divinities who
presides over agriculture and irrigation (Rostworowski de
Canseco 1983: 30–39; Itier 2008: 1221–2; Itier 2013). Far
to the south can be seen the permanently snow-covered
Ampay – the highest point in the massifs on the left bank of
the Apurímac – and in the extreme southeast, way up the
valley of the Apurímac, the three peaks of cerro LindicruzSojospata (4040 m), which dominates the San Cristóbal
mountain and the prehispanic settlement that was built
there (Saintenoy 2013).
Owing to its location at the heart of the site, in a
totally unobstructed and elevated position, the platform of
Choqek’iraw constitutes an excellent viewpoint: by day the
whole region can be surveyed, and the arrival of clouds or
storms – especially hail – on the surrounding massifs can
also be observed, as well as the movements of the sun or
the moon. At night, it offers a clear view of the heavens for
observing the stars, the Southern Cross, Venus, the Pleiades
or the Milky Way, the sightings of which determine the
cycle of the seasons (Urton 2006 [1981]). In addition, it is
probable that certain summits, the easiest to see, were used
as markers on the horizon to define the important moments
in the ceremonial and agricultural year (Fig 19.4).
At the June solstice, the sun appears on the horizon
towards 8 am in a ‘cradle’ by a rocky peak, just to the
right of the nevado Yanaqucha. It sets after 6 pm in the
distance on the great glacier of Kitay. Moreover, the massif
of Kitay is associated with another important astronomic
phenomenon: when the sun passes through the nadir at two
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Figure 19.5 Choqek’iraw mountain, the Apurímac river, the Milky Way and climatic phenomena (image © P.
Lecoq).
significant dates in the Inca agricultural calendar (Zuidema
1981), it sets by an imposing rocky peak that can just be
made out on the distant horizon formed by the skyline of
this massive mountain’s principal peak.
During the December solstice, corresponding to the
peak of the rainy season, the sun is not associated with
points on the horizon that can be seen from Choqek’iraw,
as is the case for the June solstice. It seems to rise and set
in a line more or less along the axis of the Apurímac Valley,
up- and downstream respectively. As has been written
elsewhere (Saintenoy 2011: 385), this apparent relationship
of the sun of the rainy season with the Apurímac river may
have played a significant role. This, at any rate, is what is
referenced in a myth concerning Inca cosmology related,
among others, by Garcilaso de la Vega (1976 [1609]: 108)
who writes that ‘when the sun set … it was said it descended
into the sea … and, like a strong swimmer, dived under
the Earth to re-emerge in the east the following day’. In
Andean cosmology it was thought that the Earth floated on
the ocean, which was the source of all the water emerging
by the lakes in the high altitude regions, such as Titicaca.
This myth, related in the Spanish chronicles and collected
several times by various twentieth-century anthropologists,
has been the subject of numerous studies (Nuñez del Prado
1970: 63; Earls and Silverblatt 1978; Kaulicke 2000: 93;
Urton 2006 [1981]). In the village of Misminay, where the
sun is associated with the Vilcanota river, Gary Urton (ibid.:
73) relates that, for the inhabitants, this account explains
the difference in the strength and size of the sun between
the seasons. During the rainy season, the sun is bigger,
brighter and hotter because during its night journey under
the flooded rivers, it drinks their waters; consequently, the
sun is very powerful when he comes out in the morning. On
the other hand, during the dry season, the river has much
less water and the sun is less powerful when he comes out
as he has drunk less during his night journey.
On the subject of Inca cosmology, Pierre Duviols (1993:
111), Tom Zuidema (1979: 330) and César Itier (2013:
14–16) associate the night sun of the underworld with the
divinity Wiraqucha, who created the world as the Incas
conceived it. So for them Wiraqucha was the nocturnal
facet, called ‘villca’ by Bertonio (1984 [1612]: II, 386)
of the diurnal sun divinity generally called Inti. Zuidema
(ibid.) also puts forward the hypothesis that the vilca grain,
round and black, of the psychotropic Anadenanthera colubrine – referred to earlier in connection with the cordillera
of Vilcabamba – may have represented the ‘villca’ nocturnal
sun Wiraqucha (Bouysse-Cassagne 2004). On one of the
oldest maps known of the Vilcabamba cordillera drawn
by Oricaín, and dating to 1786 (published by Aparicio
Vega 1970), the region of Choqek’iraw is, in fact, called
‘Cordillera of Wiraqucha’.
The Milky Way also seems to have played an essential
role at Choqek’iraw, which it entirely dominates for most
of the night for several months (Fig. 19.5). According to the
data in the Huarochiri manuscript collected by the Spanish
priest Francisco de Avila, and transcribed by Taylor (Taylor
and de Avila 1980), the Milky Way was seen as a celestial
river peopled with animals and mythical figures such as
a toad, a partridge, a fox and serpents as well as a large
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llama called Yacana, Catachilay or Choqechinchay, whose
eyes are formed by two particularly bright stars, identified as Alpha and Beta Centauri in the European zodiac
(Zuidema and Urton 1976). Each animal corresponded in
reality to the dark patches in the Milky Way composed of
interstellar dust clouds. The same manuscript specifies that
the Yacana was the fertilising soul of the llamas and all the
other camelids, and reveals the close connection joining
the llama, the Milky Way and the waters. This constellation,
present in the night sky in the cold dry months of April to
August marking the beginning of the farming year, disappears in October when the rainy season begins (Zuidema
and Urton 1976; Zuidema, 1989a [1980], 1992). From June
to September, the Milky Way is immediately above the site;
the llama’s eyes seem to dominate the ceremonial platform,
its head extends over the cerro Ampay and its body over the
mountain Qoriwayrachina, thereby symbolically uniting
two of the most important massifs of the region. From the
December solstice, on the other hand, the Yacana disappears from the night sky only to reappear six months later
(Zuidema and Urton 1976), thus determining the rhythm of
the seasons. This is why we have suggested the hypothesis
(see Lecoq 2010, 2013) that the llama mosaics on the
western slope of Choqek’iraw could be connected to this
constellation.
The Pleiades played and still play a similar role to the
Milky Way: their appearance in the May night sky after
being eclipsed for nearly a month was a sign for the farmers
to harvest their crops. The same applies to the moon, of
which the links with Choqek’iraw are still to be studied.
Given all these phenomena, it is highly probable that
the esplanade on the truncated hill of Choqek’iraw was
used as an astronomical observatory, as were other Inca
ceremonial platforms at Cusco, Huánuco Pampa and other
sites (Zuidema 1989a [1980]; Hyslop 1990; Pino Matos
2005; Lecoq 2013).
Choqek’iraw: centre of the Inca world in
the valley of the Apurimac?
For Zuidema (1989a [1980]; this volume), the ‘ushnu’ is
a doorway into the underworld capable of absorbing the
liquid offerings poured into it during ceremonies. He argues
that,
as the land absorbs the waters brought by the rain,
rains are drawn to the ushnu by the winds from all
the points of the horizon … As a temporal concept
the ushnu also symbolises the moment in which the
land opens, when it is sown in August, which marks
the start of the agricultural year. From this moment
the sun offers its drink to the land; the cold land is
fertilised and not only drinks in the water brought
by the rain and irrigation but also warms up owing
to the rays of the sun that ripen the crops. During
the period between August and April the sun passes
through the zenith following a path high in the sky.
In April the land closes up; from this moment until
August the sun follows a lower path in the sky; the
land is hard and dry – a season suitable for travelling
(1989a [1980]: 452–3).
In this hypothesis, the ushnu was not just a simple platform
used for observing astronomical phenomena and landscape
features but a well, basin or fountain associated with a
gnomon, which played the role of an axis mundi connecting
the ancestors and huaca with the divinities of the cosmos
through the ritual flowing of fluids. If such was the case at
Cusco, what was the situation at Choqek’iraw? Does the
site have the same types of symbolic analogies?
As in most Inca settlements, at Choqek’iraw water seems
to have been of decisive importance both for the planning
of the site and the smooth running of its inhabitants’ daily
and ritual activities (Zapata Rodríguez 2005: 112). The
water of Choqek’iraw comes from the glacier of the nevado
Yanaqucha. The water is captured in the Chunchumayu
canyon and channelled along the ridge through a canal,
meticulously lined with stones and consolidated with
retaining walls. Reaching the palatial core of Choqek’iraw
the water passes through a fountain at the centre of the
façade of the hanan plaza main temple. From there it flows
through a stone conduit to another fountain at the southern extremity of the square. The water is then distributed
through two connected channels: the first flows straight to
the hurin plaza; while the second supplies a complex of
small terraces where the water flows in a canal down to a
basin. The crenulated design of this canal on the stairways
which connect each terrace evokes the typical Inca paqcha
constructed for libation purposes (Flores Ochoa 1998). In
the hurin plaza, the water is first conducted through two
structures before reaching a fountain with a bath. From that
centre point, the channel splits in two directions: one tributary feeds the drainage network of the llamas terraces on the
western slope, while another crosses the square to supply
the terrace complexes dispersed on the eastern slope. A
third channel probably travelled around the truncated hill
to reach the fountain built above the ‘House of the Priests’
at the southern extremity of the settlement.
The hydraulic network at Choqek’iraw is fundamental
to the spatial structure of the settlement. The path of the
main canal on the ridge divides the site into two sectors,
east and west where the tributaries flow down to the
Apurímac river. As a whole, the network seems to link the
glacier of Yanaqucha to the Apurímac river in a cycle, as
the waters of the snow-capped mountain that flow down
to the Apurímac also seem to come back up on the slope
due to the significant cloud convection of the cloud forest
environment. Thus, the flowing of water materialises the
fertilising character of the glacier, huaca paqarisqa that
gives life to the land and allows the harvesting of the sacred
crops – maize or coca – that were cultivated at Choqek’iraw
(Valencia García 2005; Paz Flores 2007).
The flowing of water is particularly interesting viewed
from the top of the truncated hill because the main canal
seems to plunge underground to the north only to reappear
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to the south near the House of the Priests, thereby reproducing the passage of the subterranean waters through
the mountain that the ceremonial platform symbolises.
The Apurímac, that flows 2000 m downhill, also seems to
plunge under the earth in the east and re-emerge in the west
having symbolically passed beneath the site (Fig. 19.4).
There again, the platform of Choqek’iraw materialises the
place where the waters come together underground. So the
platform plays the role ‘of axis mundi’, with all its symbolic
implications (Coomaraswamy 1977; Guénon 1984 [1958];
Staller 2008; Eliade 2010 [1957]) similar to that of the
ushnu of Cusco as described by Zuidema (1989a [1980]).
The main regional massifs also take part in this cosmological structure and evidence this upper and lower
duality. The cerro Yanaqucha dominates Choqek’iraw and
may have been its principal titulary huaca. But it is also
the one that catches the clouds and receives precipitation
from them. Its name, ‘Black Lagoon’ underlines its role
as a provider of water, especially of subterranean origins;
these waters circulate through the mountain and travel
downstream towards Choqek’iraw by means of springs
and channels – as arteries that give it life – and finally
converge towards the Apurímac that leads them to the sea.
The allusion to the human body is quite striking (Classen
1993; Bastien 1996).
César Itier (2008: 120) throws more light on this theme
of life-giving water from sacred but savage and inhospitable
mountains:
The Quechua language opposes the terms llaqta,
‘inhabited place’, and urqu, ‘mountain’ – the latter
being the archetype of non-human space, expressing
the huaca’s essential nature and a necessary
complement to the world of the village. For the
inhabitants of the valleys this complement was most
of all the water from the mountain that irrigates the
cultivated land. In certain cases at least, we know
the huaca was conceived as the underground
hydrographic network of which the mountain was
the point of formation and the lakes and sources its
points of resurgence. The cult of the huaca therefore
was for the farmers essentially oriented towards
obtaining water. But like the ancestors, the huaca
also communicated their generative force to the men
occupying their territory and making fruitful their
fields and flocks.
It seems the same applies to Choqek’iraw which, from
a geographical point of view, is located at the centre of
this path between the high mountains of the cordillera of
Vilcabamba and the river Apurímac.
The excavations on the summit of the truncated hill of
Choqek’iraw – by Bingham in 1909, and by the archaeologists of COPESCO more recently – give yet more support
to this hypothesis. These have brought to light rectangular
geometric figures, divided into smaller spaces and formed
from small stones fitted vertically into the ground. These
figures can be divided into three groups. In the northwest,
12 chequerboard patterns have been found, aligned along
two main axes, northeast–southwest and northwest–southeast, themselves oriented towards some of the main peaks
surrounding the site such as Qoriwayrachina-Yanaqucha to
the northeast or Wiraquchan to the northwest (Fig 19.3).
In the southeast, two rows of stones forming large axes
emerge, and in the north a small mound of pebbles from
the destruction of other constructions of the same type.
The presence of these small constructions on top of the hill
suggests a close relationship with the mountains towards
which they are oriented.
These structures are not peculiar to Choqek’iraw – similar
constructions have been found in other parts of the Andes,
where they seem to have been associated with the surrounding mountains and meteorological phenomena; Protzen
(this volume) mentions the presence of some on the ushnu
of Tambo Colorado, as do Vivanco Pomacanchari (2004)
and Ziólkowski (this volume) on the platforms of Inca and
pre-Inca sites in the regions of Ayacucho and Arequipa.
Even today, certain ceremonial sites, such as the Calvary of
Copacabana on the banks of Lake Titicaca, or the summit
of the Cerro Baúl at Moquegua, receive worship linked to
the tutelary spirits supposed to reside on the tops of the
surrounding mountains. The inhabitants of the neighbouring communities build models of houses surrounded by
their miniature gardens, the forms of which evoke the
remains found on the archaeological Inca sites. As usual,
the ceremony is accompanied by numerous libations and
the sacrifice of an animal – a sheep or llama – and the
participants share the meat during a celebratory banquet.
These ex-votos, locally named alasitas or peticiones (Girault
1988: 399–402) are destined to increase the prosperity of
the harvests and the fertility of the flocks and are evidence
of the persistence of certain prehispanic traditions. Llama
breeders in the regions of north Potosí, in Bolivia, perform
similar rites during Carnival. Having sacrificed a llama they
place it, along with other offerings in the well dug for the
purpose in the middle of the family enclosure (Lecoq and
Fidel 2000, 2003) – a ritual that evokes the well in the square
of Haucaypata at Cusco, a square where votive figurines of
llamas have been unearthed (Zuidema 1989a [1980]: 446;
Farrington and Raffino 1996; Farrington, this volume).
In fact, if one considers, like Zuidema (1989a [1980]),
the ushnu as ‘an access to the underworld, connected
to the mountains and meteorological phenomena’, the
platform of Choqek’iraw is indeed an ushnu. Thus, the
chequerboard structures found at its summit and their
orientation towards the main surrounding massifs seem
to suggest this platform could have been the centre of a
regional network of ceques comparable to that in the region
of Cusco studied by Zuidema (1978a, 1995 [1964]). This
is also what is suggested by the location of the two threepeaked mountains Wiraquchan and Lindicruz-Sojospata,
along an axis oriented northwest–southeast, similar to the
course of the river Apurímac. This alignment also evokes
the symbolic axis that organises the dualism of the Bolivian
high plateaux during the periods of Aymara and Inca domination (Bouysse-Cassagne 1978, 1987; Wachtel 1978), or
the role played by the Vilcanota river for the Cusco Valley
(Reinhard 2002a; Urton 2006 [1981]).
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C H O Q E K ’ I R AW A N D I T S C E R E M O N I A L P L AT F O R M CA L L E D ‘ U S H N U ’
Lastly, we have seen above that Wiraqucha was the name
given to a divinity presiding over agriculture and irrigation,
‘of which the existence depended on the abundant supply
of water to the springs and lakes feeding the canals’ (Itier
2008: 121). According to this author:
In ancient times [Wiraqucha] travelled about the
world to create the fields to be cultivated, the walls
that delimited them, and the irrigation systems,
dividing these resources between the various ayllu
and teaching men the agricultural techniques. In
fact, one of the principal epithets the Incas gave to
Wiraqucha was pacha Yachaqchiq, ‘he who lays out
the land’. This expression refers both to the primordial
act of creating the agricultural infrastructures and
to the god’s constant intervention in the yearly
production cycles (ibid.).
In fact, if it is considered that the term Choqek’iraw is possibly a distortion of the word Choqe (‘gold’ or ‘brilliance’),
and by extension of Choqella (‘lightning’) (Gonzalez
Holguín 1989 [1608]: 117), it is surprising to find in the
same region, and only a few kilometres away, two of the
principal cosmic divinities in the Inca pantheon, Wiraqucha
and Choqella under two different forms, but both associated with mountains: one to the northwest materialised as
a three-peaked summit, and the other to the southeast represented by the mountain of Choqek’iraw, both positioned
along a southeast–northwest axis similar to that followed
by the Apurímac river. But as Itier again makes clear (2008:
122):
Whereas Wiraqucha was the god of the underworld
and of the waters rising up from it through the springs
and lakes, the Lightning was the god of the sky, the
atmospheric phenomena, and the rain … The dyad
presiding over the Andean pantheon thus defined a
cosmic opposition between lower and upper waters.
It also embodied two principles that governed the
alternating seasons: the wet heat of the period of
the rains, manifestation of Wari/Wiraqucha, and
the dry heat of the low-water months, of which the
master was the lightning … This fundamental dualism
was based on the social and economic principle of
opposition and complementarity that existed within
each local society between the ayllu exploiting the
temperate valleys, the domain of agriculture and
irrigation, and the ayllu practising stock raising and
the cultivation of tubers in the puna. Wari/Wiraqucha,
who presided over irrigated agriculture, was the
tutelary god of the inhabitants of the valleys, while
those of the high steppes considered themselves to be
‘sons of lightning’ … The lightning was also the one
who conferred their powers on the curer-shamans,
whose therapeutic arsenal essentially came from
the wild flora above 3,800 metres. At this upper
level of the Andean pantheon a sort of contract was
established by exchanging gods between cultivators
of maize and shepherds: Wari/Wiraqucha’s protégés
periodically worshipped the tutelary god of the
sons of the Lightning and reciprocally. So the cult
of Wari/Wiraqucha and the Lightning sealed the
relationship of opposition and complementarity
existing between the inhabitants of each of the two
mountain ecological zones.
It can then be asked to what extent the opposition of the
two massifs represents this symbolic complementarity and
whether or not the site of Choqek’iraw was dedicated to
one of these divinities.
Conclusion
The evidence we have brought together in this chapter
concerning the truncated hill of Choqek’iraw seems to
show that it was in fact an ushnu. Its location at the heart
of the settlement and its topographic features, suited it
perfectly as a stage for ritual performances and as a site
for astronomic observations. Some evidence, such as the
chequerboard structures found at the top of the hill and the
orientation to the main surrounding mountains and rivers,
as well as the fact that Choqek’iraw formed the centre of
an Inca territory in the Apurímac Valley (Saintenoy 2011),
suggests that this ushnu could have been the hub of a
regional network of ceques, comparable to that of the
Cusco region. This truncated hill also seems to mediate
the cycle of waters linking the nevado Yanaqucha to the
Apurimac river. In short, perhaps the whole site should be
considered a regional huaca (Lecoq 2010, 2013), and as
the complex expression of the concept of ushnu inscribed
in the landscape.
Acknowledgements
We would like to thank Timothy Seller for translating this text from
French to English. This chapter is dedicated to the memory of Percy
Paz Flores, who knew so much about Choqek’iraw.
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