J. Agronomy & Crop Science (2012) ISSN 0931-2250
SHORT COMMUNICATION
The Sustainability of Quinoa Production in Southern Bolivia:
from Misrepresentations to Questionable Solutions.
Comments on Jacobsen (2011, J. Agron. Crop Sci. 197: 390–399)
T. Winkel1, H. D. Bertero2, P. Bommel3, J. Bourliaud4, M. Chevarrı́a Lazo4, G. Cortes5, P. Gasselin6,
S. Geerts7, R. Joffre8, F. Léger9, B. Martinez Avisa10, S. Rambal8, G. Rivière11, M. Tichit9,
J. F. Tourrand3, A. Vassas Toral5, J. J. Vacher1 & M. Vieira Pak3
1 IRD, CEFE-CNRS, Montpellier, France
2 Universidad de Buenos Aires, Facultad de Agronomı́a, Cátedra de Producción Vegetal, C1417DSE, Buenos Aires, Argentina
3 CIRAD, UR GREEN, Montpellier, France
4 INRA, UR MONA, Ivry-sur-Seine, France
5 Université Paul Valéry, UMR 5281 ART-Dev, Montpellier, France
6 INRA, UMR INNOVATION, Montpellier, France
7 Katholieke Universiteit, Department of Earth and Environmental Sciences, Leuven, Belgium
8 CNRS, UMR 5175 CEFE, Montpellier, France
9 INRA, UMR SAD-APT, Paris, France
10 ANAPQUI, Asociación Nacional de Productores de Quinua, La Paz, Bolivia
11 EHESS, CERMA, UMR 8168 MASCIPO, Paris, France
Keywords
Andes; Bolivia; Chenopodium quinoa; food
consumption; scientific ethics; soil
degradation; sustainable agriculture
Correspondence
T. Winkel
CEFE-CNRS/IRD
F-34293 Montpellier Cedex 5, France
Tel: +33 467613255
Fax: +33 467613336
Email: thierry.winkel@ird.fr
Accepted February 23, 2012
doi:10.1111/j.1439-037X.2012.00506.x
Abstract
Reviewing the situation of quinoa production in southern Bolivia, Jacobsen
(2011, J. Agron. Crop Sci. 197: 390) argues that the booming export market has
a negative effect on the environment and on the home consumption of quinoa,
thereby leading to an environmental disaster in the region. In view of the scarcity of scientific knowledge on the rapid social and environmental dynamics in
the region, we consider that Jacobsen’s review misrepresents the situation of
quinoa production in southern Bolivia. Specifically, we argue that (i) the data
presented by Jacobsen (2011, J. Agron. Crop Sci. 197: 390) do not support any
drop in quinoa crop yield supposed to reflect soil degradation and (ii) his demonstration regarding home consumption of quinoa is ill-founded from both a
nutritional and a cultural point of view. We suggest that the diffusion of the
arguments exposed by Jacobsen (2011, J. Agron. Crop Sci. 197: 390), because of
their flaws, might have strong negative impacts on those concerned with sustainable food production and fair-trade with developing countries. We conclude
that, rather than reinforced agro-technical controls on local farmers, the rising
competition in the international quinoa market requires a shift towards an ethical economy and ethical research cooperation with quinoa producers.
Introduction
A recent article by Jacobsen (2011) reviews the situation
of quinoa production in southern Bolivia considering the
environmental and socio-economic changes experienced
by this native Andean crop since it entered in a booming
export market in the late 1980s. On the basis of these
major changes in quinoa production, it is argued that
314
‘the development of an export market can have a negative effect on the environment and on the home consumption of the same product’, thereby leading to an
environmental disaster in the region. Quinoa production,
as reviewed by Jacobsen (2011), is thus in need of urgent
technical adjustments, such as sophisticated irrigation
systems and reinforced controls on local quinoa crop
production.
ª 2012 Blackwell Verlag GmbH, 198 (2012) 314–319
Sustainability of Quinoa Production in Southern Bolivia
In spite of its rising commercial interest worldwide, the
scientific literature on quinoa remains scarce in comparison with other staple crops, the more so if one focuses
on a particular production zone such as the southern altiplano of Bolivia. Reporting the conclusions of an international workshop on the sustainability of the biological
production in this region, Reynolds et al. (2008a: 11)
pointed that very few data are available on changes in soil
erosion in different landscape areas, and still less regarding the critical factors determining the sustainability of
the biological production in the area. Considering this
lack of scientific studies and the very rapid social and
environmental dynamics in the region, we consider that
Jacobsen’s review misrepresents the situation of quinoa
production in southern Bolivia. Here, we argue that:
1. a reanalysis of the data presented by Jacobsen (2011)
does not support any drop in quinoa crop yield supposedly reflecting environmental degradation over the period
of increased production; and
2. the demonstration by Jacobsen (2011) regarding
home consumption of quinoa is ill-founded from both a
nutritional and a cultural point of view.
After signalling some other flaws in the diagnosis and
solutions exposed by Jacobsen (2011), we suggest that the
diffusion of these arguments, although scientifically inconsistent, might have strong negative impacts on those concerned with sustainable food production and fair-trade
with developing countries.
Evidence of an environmental disaster?
Soil degradation as a result of increasing use of tractors
and reduced access to animal manure is the major environmental problem pointed out by Jacobsen (2011: 392,
393). To support his argument that ‘severe degradation of
soil fertility’ has occurred as a result of quinoa crop
expansion, Jacobsen cites publications by PIEB (2009)
and APSA II (2008). However, the former document is
merely a call for research proposals, and the latter an
internal funding report, neither of which present scientific
evidence of soil degradation in the region. In our opinion, the conclusions drawn by Jacobsen (2011) about
these publications surpass the current knowledge of soil
fertility in the southern altiplano of Bolivia, not to mention its potential underlying factors (fallow duration,
manure application or tractor use). Nevertheless, referring
to a figure showing the yield of quinoa in Bolivia over
the period 1961–2009, Jacobsen (2011: 391) states: ‘with
the last 10 years’ area increase, yield has decreased from
close to 700 to 570 kg ha)1 in 2009’. He then suggests a
direct relation between a reduced fallow duration and
‘the progressive reduction in yield of quinoa over the last
20 years’, citing Félix (2008). Apart from the fact that the
ª 2012 Blackwell Verlag GmbH, 198 (2012) 314–319
development project report by Félix (2008) was not
designed to scientifically demonstrate any causal relationship between fallow duration, soil fertility and crop yield,
the quinoa yield data series presented by Jacobsen (2011)
in his Figure 1 clearly does not support his assertion of a
decreasing quinoa yield over the boom period. On the
contrary, reanalyzing this data series (our Fig. 1) shows
that the slope of the time regression does not differ from
zero over the period 1961–2009 and is even significantly
increasing over the last 20 years, actually contradicting
Jacobsen’s statement. In reality, this data series of quinoa
yield alternates two periods of increase (1961–1975,
1991–1997) with two periods of decrease (1976–1990,
1998–2009). Such pluriannual fluctuations in quinoa yield
are difficult to interpret without complementary information about climate trends, landscape changes, crop
practices and soil fertility in the region. Indeed, with a
20 % coefficient of variation over the period 1961–2009,
the national quinoa production in Bolivia stays within
the normal range of interannual yield variability for a
crop produced under low-input agriculture in an arid
environment, without any decreasing trend that might
suggest an environmental disaster.
In fact, propagating an error commonly made by other
authors he cites (Cossio 2008, Félix 2008), Jacobsen
(2011) makes a link between the supposedly decreasing
trend in annual crop yield and the process of soil
degradation, forgetting that, owing to many interfering
phenomena (plague bursts, climate stresses, crop practices, etc.), a fast variable such as crop yield is inadequate
to characterize a slow process such as land degradation
(Reynolds et al. 2007, 2008b). Besides, gross national statistics, with all the limitations they suffer in a developing
country like Bolivia, hardly constitute reliable indicators
of an environmental crisis at a local scale. A conclusion
of this reanalysis of Jacobsen’s argumentation is thus
that detailed, scientifically based studies are lacking
and urgently needed to quantitatively characterize the
Fig. 1 Statistical regressions on the quinoa yield data series published
by Jacobsen (2011, Fig. 1). Period 1961–2009 (dashed line):
slope = 0.112 ± 1.18, P = 0.92. Period 1990–2009 (solid line):
slope = 8.64 ± 2.18, P = 0.0009.
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Winkel et al.
processes relating quinoa yield to soil management in
that region undergoing rapid changes in land use and
agricultural practices.
Quinoa home consumption
Turning to the problem of quinoa home consumption,
Jacobsen (2011: 392) states that ‘export of quinoa has
increased since 2001 whereas domestic consumption has
decreased’, fitting national statistics. First, we would
maintain that the practice of fitting a polynomial regression to a time series of only 12 data points, affected by
high interannual variability, is highly unlikely to lead to
statistically robust results. A much longer time series is
needed to be able to draw any valid conclusion regarding
significant changes in quinoa home consumption. Secondly, it is not at all clear how such gross national data
could reflect the diet of the quinoa producers in the
southern altiplano of Bolivia: this is the same problem, as
mentioned above, of extrapolating conclusions drawn
from national data to a local scale. Nevertheless, Jacobsen
(2011: 396) alleges that ‘the farmers in the southern altiplano region, where the large seeded quinoa Real is
grown for export, are no longer consuming their own
quinoa, because of the high market value’, continuing:
‘Data from household surveys have shown that the majority of meals during the survey time did not include quinoa at all, suggesting that perhaps quinoa is now
becoming an underutilized food among quinoa producers’. However, no data from any anthropological or sociological study are shown to support this supposed change
in local food consumption. Some recent data on the quinoa consumption by farmer families in the southern
Bolivian altiplano do exist. Laguna (2008: 130) found that
self-consumption of quinoa by farmers in that region is
around 12 to 14 % of their own production. More
recently, in a study on 275 households of the southern
altiplano, Astudillo (2007: 24) reports that 40 % of the
meals prepared the day before the survey included quinoa, with still higher figures in the families distant from
the roads. Acosta-Alba (2007: 25) in a survey of 36 families from the north and the west of the Salar of Uyuni
remarks that all the quinoa producers keep around 10 %
of their total production for self-consumption and seed
stock. Héran (2011) observes that whatever the volume of
their production, quinoa producers from the east of the
same region always keep a quantity of quinoa between 40
and 200 kg per year for their own family consumption.
Ofstehage (2010: 23) in an ethnographic study in the
south of the Salar of Uyuni (Los Lı́pez) states that ‘A sizable amount of quinoa also remains in the Uyuni region
in the form of self-consumption’. Finally, although
centred on quinoa consumption in urban areas, the study
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of Montoya Choque (2007: 22, 25, 27) states that most
of the quinoa produced in the Bolivian altiplano is
consumed by the producers’ families.
More generally, we would highlight here a confusion
commonly made by those concerned by the weight of
quinoa in the diet of local peasant families. It is a general
observation that, on a quantitative weight basis, quinoa
represents a smaller fraction of the diet than pasta or rice
(Rojas et al. 2004). Many nutritionists, considering the
high and balanced protein content of quinoa grain, regard
a substantial increase in quinoa in the diet of local populations as highly beneficial for their health. However, we
need to be careful in our appraisal of the role of quinoa
in the local diet: a common intuition is that the weight
of quinoa should be equivalent to that of other starchy
foods, namely Andean tubers, legumes, maize, oat, pasta,
bread or rice. Although quinoa is promoted in the markets of the northern countries as the ‘rice of the Incas’,
Andean populations have never consumed it as a staple
cereal, like rice in Asia or wheat in the Middle East and
Europe. In fact, native Andean people regard quinoa as a
‘heavy’ foodstuff and, as a dietary rule, consider it harmful to eat it for dinner (Johnsson 1986: 107). Traditionally, quinoa is mostly used to thicken soups or drinks
(lahua, pesqe) or in the form of small cookies (kispiña,
mukuna), and less frequently as main dish (phisara)
(National Research Council 1989, Tapia et al. 2000).
Hence, quantitative comparison of the relative weights of
quinoa, pasta and rice is an incorrect basis for evaluating
the balance of the diet of the local populations. In our
opinion, the unreferenced statistics shown by Jacobsen
(2011: 396) stating that ‘the consumption of quinoa in
Bolivia is only 2 kg per person per year, whereas the same
for rice and pasta is 25 kg’ are thus meaningless on both
a nutritional and a cultural basis. We agree with Jacobsen
(2011: 396) that quinoa has tended to be replaced by
pasta and rice, which, contrary to the quinoa grain commonly available in the villages and the urban markets of
Bolivia, do not require tedious cleaning and washing
before consumption. But this change occurred long before
quinoa entered the export market (see Johnsson 1986:
167, referring to the early 1980s) and reflects a general
trend among Latin American countries to import subsidized wheat products from North America, beginning at
least fifty years ago (Hellin and Higman 2005: 168). It is
thus incorrect, as Jacobsen (2011) and many journalists
do, to relate decreasing home consumption of quinoa to
the recent commercial success of that grain in the international food market. Furthermore, Jacobsen’s assertion
ignores the recent efforts developed by the Bolivian government to promote the home consumption of quinoa
through its inclusion in the food security programmes of
‘desnutrición cero’, ‘desayuno escolar’ and ‘subsidio de
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Sustainability of Quinoa Production in Southern Bolivia
lactancia familiar’ (MDRyT (Ministerio de Desarrollo
Rural y Tierras) – CONACOPROQ (Concejo Nacional de
Comercializadores y Productores de Quinua), 2009).
Flawed diagnosis and possible solutions… to put
more threat on agricultural sustainability?
The diagnosis of the situation reviewed by Jacobsen
(2011) is littered with inaccuracies or oversimplifications
(e.g. on page 391, the range of extreme temperatures from
)11 C to 30 C mixes a seasonal low temperature mean
and an absolute high daily temperature, which is meaningless). More critical of his demonstration is the allegation
that ‘The agricultural frontier has been extended, as virgin
land on the planicie is being ploughed’ (Jacobsen 2011:
392). There is some confusion here, as the areas ploughed
in the flat areas of the southern altiplano are not virgin
lands but instead pasture lands, used since ancient times
by local populations for their llama and sheep herding.
Quinoa crops expand at the expense of pasture (not
virgin) lands as the result of changing decisions made by
the local farmers. A real problem, namely the conversion
of common pastures into private croplands, with the
consequent land tenure changes and marginalization of
livestock, is thus oversimplified by Jacobsen (2011) into a
process of agricultural expansion over virgin lands. This
simplification allows the author to write later in the text:
‘the incorporation of virgin lands into the production is
in opposition to the basic standards of IFOAM’ (Jacobsen
2011: 393). In our opinion, this is an undue conclusion
distorting the complex socio-environmental issue of
agricultural land use change in the region.
Various possible solutions are proposed by Jacobsen
(2011: 394) to deal with the range of agro-technical problems that he identifies. Some of these solutions seem
rather doubtful, and one wonders, for example, how high
beds (suka kollos) could be established, as Jacobsen (2011:
395) suggests, in such an arid area as the southern altiplano of Bolivia since this pre-Hispanic technology was
designed for wetlands areas near Lake Titicaca or in the
Amazonian plains (Denevan 2001). Regarding irrigation,
it is traditionally applied in the region, but on a very
small scale only, using some scarce superficial water
springs. This traditional irrigation is of an entirely different scale to that of the CPTS project (CPTS 2011) to drill
200 wells to irrigate 1 million hectares of quinoa croplands in the southern altiplano of Bolivia (to be compared to the approximately 52 000 ha currently cultivated
in Bolivia as a whole). Should it become a reality, it is to
be hoped that the agencies funding this project would
conduct a scrupulous evaluation of its potential impact
on environmental, social and economic sustainability in
the region.
ª 2012 Blackwell Verlag GmbH, 198 (2012) 314–319
Supplementary irrigation is regularly presented as a
possible solution for sustainable quinoa production, with
the argument that the improved and more stable grain
yield in irrigated fields would reduce the need to expand
the cultivated area to increase total quinoa production. In
fact, Jacobsen (2011: 394–395) broadly develops the
potential benefits of focused deficit irrigation, especially
in the form of alternate irrigation (ARD) and drip irrigation. Although briefly mentioning the potential risks of
soil salinization or loss of aquifers by overpumping,
Jacobsen (2011: 395) still concludes that supplemental
irrigation has a ‘great potential for increasing agricultural
production and improving livelihoods in dry rain-fed
areas’. Based on studies conducted in West Asia and
North Africa (Oweis and Hachum 2006), his conclusion
omits the results of the QUINAGUA research programme
on deficit irrigation in the Bolivian altiplano (Geerts et al.
2008a). In the specific case of the southern altiplano
where water resources are scarce and often saline, Geerts
et al. (2008b) claim that ‘deficit irrigation with poor quality water and cultivation of crops in fields with a shallow
saline groundwater table pose a serious threat for sustainable quinoa farming’. The authors then conclude:
‘although potentially beneficial, deficit irrigation of quinoa in arid regions such as the southern Bolivian altiplano should be considered with precaution’. Incidentally,
a further unanswered question is that of how drip irrigation systems and sophisticated watering procedures like
ARD would reliably work on a 3600-m-height highland
exposed to extreme solar radiation and frequent night
frost during the crop season (Pouteau et al. 2011). It is
also not clear how, without large sources of external
funding, such advanced techniques could be implemented
and durably managed in one of the most disadvantaged
area of Latin America.
Conclusion
The current booming production of quinoa in the southern altiplano of Bolivia raises legitimate concerns about
social and environmental sustainability in the region
(Reynolds et al. 2008a,b, Winkel 2008, Winkel 2011). In
view of the rapid changes in crop systems potentially
threatening the environmental basis for a sustainable quinoa production, some observers may have a tendency to
use their ‘personal impressions’ as reliable evidences of an
environmental disaster and impending threats to local
food security. Leaving aside rough relationships between
national quinoa yield statistics and local soil fertility, as
well as poorly supported assertions concerning the diet of
Bolivian farmers, we have very limited knowledge about
the agro-ecological and social basis of quinoa sustainability in the southern altiplano of Bolivia. Recently, national
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Winkel et al.
and international research programmes have begun to
investigate the complex issues of agricultural sustainability
in this region (e.g. ARIDnet, EQUECO, IFAD-NUS,
PIEB-MDRT-MPD, QUINAGUA). The preliminary results
of these programmes have shown the importance of
agro-environmental issues, in particular those related to
the landscape structure and organization (Winkel 2011).
But beside environmental preoccupations, the conclusions
of these programmes emphasize the fundamental role
of socio-economic issues such as land tenure and the
conversion of collective pasture lands into private crop
fields, or the intricacies of farming and non-farming
activities managed by the households of quinoa producers
in their search for a better standard of living (Chaxel
2007, Vassas et al. 2008).
We believe that diffusion of the arguments of Jacobsen
(2011), although scientifically unsound, may have a
strong negative impact on those concerned in sustainable
food production and fair-trade relationships with small
farmers in developing countries. Wrongly alarmed by the
reported negative consequences of their consumption
choices, some consumers in northern countries might
reverse their support to Andean quinoa producers. We
conclude that, rather than reinforced agro-technical controls on poor farmers, the increasing competition in the
international quinoa market requires a shift towards more
ethical economic relationships with exporters and ethical
research cooperation with quinoa producers. The cornerstone of such ethical relationships in economy and
research is the active participation of their ultimate beneficiaries, namely the local farmers. This implies focusing
on their own needs and realities, and continuously associating them with the process of problem posing, knowledge building and decision-making (ISE 2006). As regards
agricultural management and research, this approach
would avoid what Holling and Meffe (1996) called the
pathology of managing natural resources by ‘command
and control’ (see also Stallman 2011) and, thus, will promote a perspective better grounded in the collective management of natural resources (Ostrom 1990) and the
human right to adequate food (De Schutter 2011).
Acknowledgements
The authors thank several Bolivian researchers and the
anonymous reviewers for their supportive comments on
the manuscript. The help of Ian Ross in improving the
English version of this manuscript was also appreciated.
The French co-authors beneficiated from the financial
support of the ‘ANR – Agence Nationale de la Recherche
– The French National Research Agency’ under the
programme ‘Agriculture and Sustainable Development’,
project ‘ANR-06-PADD-011, EQUECO’.
318
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