Gems
Gems
Gems
SUMMER '1988
Volume 24 Number 2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
FEATURE
ARTICLES
67
81
NOTES
AND NEW
TECHNIQUES
104
Pastel Pyropes
Carol M.Stockton
107
REGULAR
FEATURES
112
120
124
131
ABOUT THE COVER: The extraordinary play-of-color seen here in the 26-ct "Jason" boulder
opal arises from diffraction of light on symmetrically stacked layers of silica spheres.
Diffraction, one of the less common causes of color in gem materials, is described in this issue
in the third part of the series by Drs. Fritsch and Rossman on the origins o f color in gems. This
final installment also discusses other optical phenomena and band theory, and includes an
extensive listing of the known origins o f color in gem materials. The opal, from the Ditto
3 Harold &>
Collection, is courtesy of "Jayson" Traurig Bros. Pty Ltd. (Dallas, TX office). Photo C
Erica Van Pelt -Photographers, Los Angeles, CA.
Typesetting for Gems & Gemology is by Scientific Composition, Los Angeles, CA. Color
separations are b y Effective Graphics, Con~pton,CA. Printing is by Waverly Press, Easton, MD.
0 1988 Gemological Institute of America
EDITORIAL
STAFF
Editor-in-Chief
R i c h a r d T Liddicoat
Associate Editors
Peter C. Keller
D. Vincent M a n s o n
John S i n k a n k a s
T e c h n i c a l Editor
Carol M. S t o c k t o n
Editor
Alice S. Keller
1660 Stewart St.
S a n t a M o n i c a , CA 9 0 4 0 4
Telephone: (8001 4 2 1-7250 x25 1
Subscriptions
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Telephone: I8001 4 2 1-7250 x201
Editorial Assistant
N a n c y K. H a y s
Editor, G e m T r a d e Lab N o t e s
C . W Fryer
Editor, Gemological A b s t r a c t s
D o n a M. D i r l a m
Editor, B o o k Reviews
Elise B. M i s i o r o w s k i
C o n t r i b u t i n g Editor, J o h n I. Koivula
Editors, G e m N e w s
J o h n 1. ' ~ o i v u l a
Robert C. K a m m e r l i n g
PRODUCTION
STAFF
Jennifer Brosious
Linda Manion
S u s a n Kingsbury
Julie M a t z
Patricia M a y e r
J a n Newel1
R u t h Patchick
Peter J o h n s t o n
EDITORIAL
REVIEW B O A R D
W i l l i a m E. Boyajian
C . S. H u r l b u t , jr.
Cambridge, M A
H e n r y 0. A. M e y e r
West Lafayette, I N
Santa Monica, C A
Robert Crowningshield
Robert C . K a m n ~ e r l i n g
Sallie M o r t o n
N e w York, NY
A l a n T. C o l l i n s
London, United Kingdom
Santa Monica, C A
A n t h o n y R. Kampf
Los Angeles, C A
San lose, C A
D e n n i s Foltz
R o b e r t E. K a n e
Ray Page
Santa Monica, C A
Los Angeles, C A
Santc; Monicc;, C A
E m m a n u e l Fritsch
J o h n I. Koivula
George Rossman
Santa Monica, C A
C. W Fryer
Santn Monica, C A
Santa Monica, C A
Kurt Nassau
PO. Lebanon, N[
Pasadena, C A
J a m e s E. Shigley
Santa Monica, C A
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MANUSCRIPT
SUBMISSIONS
Gems a ) Gemology welconles the submission of articles on all aspects of the field. Please see the Suggestions
for Authors in the Fall 1987 issue of the journal, or contact the editor for a copy. Letters on articles published in
Gems eJ Gemology and other relevant matters are also welcome.
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Summer 1988
67
Figure 1 . Two recently found crystals (0.76 and 0.68 ct, respectively) flank three older faceted examples of fancy-color diamonds found i n Borneo. The three faceted diamonds, 0.20-0.34 ct, were recovered from the Cempaka diamond fields early in this century and subsequently faceted i n Martaptira.
Photo 0 Harold o)Erica Van Pelt.
HISTORY
The diamond deposits of Borneo are believed to
share with India the distinction of being the
earliest worked diamond mines in the world (see
box), although researchers have not been able to
pinpoint the exact date that mining began. For
example, Webster (1983)believes that mining may
have started on the island as early as 600 A.D., and
that mining was certainly carried out since the
14th century. Bruton (1978)does not believe that
mining in Borneo started until the 16th century.
Schubnel (1980), however, provides strong evidence that the area on the Sungai Landalz (Landalz
River) in western Kalimantan was worked by the
Malays and Chinese as early as the Sung period
68
Summer 1988
1 Figure
2. This map shows the two major areas
(left
the Landak district of western Kali=
Summer 1988
69
Late
1600s
1698 The first British trading post in Borneo is set
up at Banjarmasin.
The Dutch East India Company exports
300,000 guilders worth of diamonds from
the Landak district in what is now western
Kalimantan.
The 367-ct Matan diamond (which may have
"Unless otherwise indicated, the information in this table was derived primarily from Ball (1931) and
discussions with local residents and officials at the Banjar Baw Museum.
70
Summer 1988
Summer 1988
71
Figure 3. This diagram shows the schematic relationship of the main sediment types (the trigons indicate the diamondiferous layers) at the Danau Seran sample pit in southeastern Kalimantan. Note that
the relative thicknesses of the various types and the swamp level are not exact. Artwork by fan Newell.
Jwamp Level
Paludal Fades
72
Summer 1988
Summer 1988
73
Figure 5. The Cempaka mining area is a jumble of shafts and tailings. W h e n a pit is exhausted, the
miners move a small distance to continue extracting the gem-bearing gravels. Because the upper gem
gravels have been largely worked out, mining is more difficult and the miners are more likely to work
as a team. Photo b y David Dikinis.
suggested that the principal source of the diamonds found in southeastern Kalimantan is associated with erosion of the late Cretaceous Manunggul Formation. These diamonds were subsequently deposited and re-eroded several times
before being finally deposited in later Tertiary and
Quaternary sediments. Two of the three main
sedimentary facies identified at Banjar Baru are
known to contain diamonds: the sheet wash and
the upper sections of the alluvial gravels. The
majority of diamonds occur in the upper alluvial
materials, the distribution of which corresponds to
the outline of paleochannels emanating from the
Danau Seran and Cempalza swamps, and represents the reworking of previously eroded diamondiferous sediments.
In the western area of Kalimantan, around
Ngabang, diamonds also occur in ancient stream
channels of probable Eocene age, and in recent
stream beds that drain exposed areas of these
ancient stream channels, usually near the flanks of
mountains (see Bauer, 1904). The Eocene gravels
exhibit no bedding, and diamonds appear to be
evenly distributed. The gravels consist of moder-
74
Summer 1988
Summer 1988
75
inflow of surface water, a retainer wall was constructed from loose material excavated around the
perimeter of the pit; in addition, a slurry pump was
installed to remove water. To determine accurate
in-situ volumes of diamond-bearing gravels, the
internal dimensions of the excavated pit were
accurately surveyed, and gravel thicknesses were
measured at 1-m intervals around the interior
(again, see figure 4).
The excavated gravels were loaded onto 6-ton
haul trucks and delivered to the sampling plant
some 5 lzm away (figure 9).The sampling plant is a
standard alluvial plant of 10 m3 per hour capacity
that uses a trommel-scrubber unit and primary
and secondary jigs (figure 10).A spiral concentrator
was added to improve the recovery of black sand (a
mixture of ilmenite, chromite, rutile, gold, and
platinum). The plant was constructed in Inverell,
Australia, and is basically the same as that used to
separate sapphire at Inverell (see Coldham, 1985).
The recovery procedure was found to be highly
effective, with virtually all diamonds recovered
from the first two (of three) screens in both the
primary and secondary jigs.
The jig screens were removed after three or
four days' production and the concentrate processed in the laboratory. The 5-7 m m and the 3-5
m m concentrates were fed into a Plietz jig, which
delivers a high-grade diamond concentrate in the
center of a flat screen. This screen is then placed
upside down on a white cloth on a rubber sorting
deck, and the diamonds are hand picked under
strong white light in a shallow water bath. The
Plietz jig tailings were panned by hand again to
check for diamonds that may have escaped initial
inspection. The <1.5-mm black sand concentrate
was first dehumidified, put through a magnetic
separator, and then tabled with the super-concentrate amalgamated to recover gold and hand
washed t o recover platinum. Considerable
amounts of gold and platinum were recovered in
this way (figure 11).A total of 5345.9 m3 of gravels
were taken from the bulk sample pit. From these
gravels, 1050.96 ct of diamonds, 470 grams of gold,
and 178 grams of platinum were recovered.
The authors are not aware of any major sophisticated diamond mining operations being undertaken in western Kalimantan at this time. Local
inhabitants continue to mine by traditional
methods in the area of Ngabang, following procedures similar to those described above for southeastern Kalimantan.
Summer 1988
I-'
Figure 9. This sampling plant, locates ., .cm from the Danau Seran sample pit, i s basically the same
as that used to separate sapphire at Inverell, Australia. Photo courtesy of Acorn Securities.
DESCRIPTION OF THE
KALIMANTAN DIAMONDS
Quality Analysis of Diamonds from Banjarmasin.
Acorn Securities reports that the great bulk of the
diamonds they recovered are of gem quality, with
only one piece of bort recovered from 6,766 individual stones found in the bulk sample pit. The
diamonds occur as stones and shapes with uncommon cleavages, as well as some macles and, rarely,
ballas (figure 12). The dominant crystal forms of
the stones and shapes are the dodecahedron and
tetrahexahedron (58%; C. E. Watson, pers. comm.,
Summer 1988
77
Figure 12. A variety of colors and shapes of diamonds (here, 1-3 ct) were found in the first
bulk sample recovered from Danau Seran.
Photo courtesy of Acorn Securities.
Summer 1988
the early 20th century, it would have been appropriate for the ruling prince to retain the largest
stones. Bauer also reported that the Rajah of Matan
had several significant diamonds, including a 70 ct
named the Segima and an unnamed 54-ct stone.
The Rajah of Matan was reported also to have a
367-ct diamond, but it is generally thought that the
stone was actually quartz.
In 1965, a diamond weighing 166.85 ct was
found in southeastern Kalimantan and named the
Tri Sakti, or "Three Principles," after the three
watchwords of the new Indonesian republicnationalism, religion, and unity ("Petrified Tears,"
1977; Schubnel, 1980). The rough was sent to
Asscher's Diamond Company, Ltd., an Amsterdam
firm that is renowned for having cut the Cullinan,
and a 50.53-ct emerald-cut was produced in 1966.
The stone was subsequently sold to an undisclosed
buyer in Europe and, unfortunately, its current
whereabouts are not known.
THE MARTAPURA DIAMOND
INDUSTRY TODAY
~ a r t a ~ is&the largest diamond-cutting center in
~ndonesia.In the town square of Martapura, one is
immediately aware that this is a gem-trading
town. Small jewelry shops are found around the
square, and open-front cutting shops predominate
in the alleyways. Purchasing diamonds as a tourist
Property
0.20-ct fancy
grayish blue
0.28-ct fancy
greenish yellow
0.96-ct nearcolorless
octahedral crystal
Absorption
spectruma
(400-700 nm)
Strong 415.5-nm
line
No lines or
bands
Moderate lines at
498 and 504 nm
Transmission
luminescence
Fluorescence to
U.V. radiation
None
None
Strong green
Very strong
chalky blue
Moderate chalky
blue
Very weak dull
chalky yellow,
long-wave U.V.
None
Very weak
yellowish orange
None
None
Very strong
chalky yellow
Moderate chalky
yellow
None
Nonconductive
Conductive
Nonconductive
Nonconductive
Short-wave
Phosphorescence
Electrical
conductivity
None
None at room
temperature; very
weak 415.5-nm
line when stone
cooled to - 54OC
None
None
'As observed through a GIA GEM Instruments spectroscope unit with a Beck prism spectroscope, with the diamonds
cooled with an aerosol refrigerant,
Summer 1988
79
80
REFERENCES
Ball S.H. 11931) Diamond mining in Borneo. Engineering and
Mining Journal, Vol. 132, No, 5, pp. 200-204.
Bauer M. (1904)Precious Stones. Trans. b y L. J. Spencer, Charles
Griffin & Co., London.
Boutan E. (1886) Diamant. C. Dunod, Paris.
Bruton E. (1978)Dian~onds,2nd ed. Chilton Book Co., Radnor,
PA.
Diamond World Review 11984) Vol. 8, No. 33, p. 2116.
Hamilton W (1970)Tectonics of the Indonesian Region. Report
published by the Indonesian Geological Survey.
The petrified tears of Queen Ratu Inan (19771 Indiaqiiu, Vol. 1,
NO. 15, pp. 15-19.
Nixon pH., Bergman S.C. (1987) Anomalous occurrences of
diamonds. Indiaquo, No. 47, pp. 21-27,
Schubnel H-J. (1980) Other producers. In J. Legrand, Ed.,
Diamonds: Myth, Magic, and Reality, Crown Publishers,
New York, pp. 180-187.
Tavernier J-B. (1676)Travels in India. Trans. by V Ball, Oriental
Reprint Corp., New Delhi, India.
VanBen~n~elen,
R. W 11939)De geologie van het westelijke deel
van de Westerafdeeling van Borneo (geology of the western
part of southwest Borneo). N.E. I , Dienst v. d Mijnboiiw,
laarb.. Vol. 68, pp. 187-328.
Webster R. (1983) Gems: Their Sources, Descriptions, and
Identification, 4th ed. Butterworths, London, England.
Summer 1988
The previous two articles in this series described the origins of color in gems that
derive from isolated structures of atomic
dimensions-an atom (chromium in emerald), a small molecule (the carbonate
group in Maxixe beryl), or particular
units
groupings of atoms (Fez+-0-Fe:f
in cordieiite). The final part of this series
is concerned with colors explained by
band theoiy, such as canary yellow &amonds, o r b y physical optics, such as
play-of-color in opal. In the case of band
theory, the color-causing entity is the very
structure of the entire crystal; in the case
of physical phenomena, it is of inicroscopic dimension, but considerably larger
than the clusters of a few atoms previously discussed.
+
BAND THEORY
In contrast to the processes described in the first two parts
of this series, the electrons in some gem minerals can be
delocalized over the entire crystal, and produce color
through their interaction with visible light. Such delocalization is a characteristic property of most metals and
semiconductors. The physical theory that describes the
cause of color in such materials is called band theory.
Examples of the various gem colors explained by this
theory are presented in table 1.
In numerous solid materials, billions of atoms contribute to the possible energy levels, which are so numerous
and so close together that they are considered collectively
as an energy band. This is of particular interest in the case
of some semiconducting and metallic minerals (Marfunin,
1979a).There arc two bands in these solids: a low-energy
valence band that is fully populated with electrons, and a
high-energy conduction band that is generally empty
(figure 2). The energy that separates these bands is well
defined and is called a "band gap." This energy separation is
of dramatic importance to the optical properties of certain
types of gemstones.
Summer 1988
81
TABLE 1. Types of gem materialsfor which color can be explained by the band theory and examples of the colors produced,
Origin of color
Type of material
Conductors and some
semiconductors = colored opaque
materials with metallic luster
Color
Examples
Red
White
Violet to blue
Yellow
Some semiconductors
Red
Intrinsically
colorless
Some semiconductors
Blue
Yellow
82
Summer 1988
..
Figure. 2..The three possible types of
intrinsic coloration of gem materials
are.explained by examining the
width of the band gap in relation to
the visible range. (A) Band gap
greater than the energy of the visible range: All visible radiation i s
transmitted and the gem is intrinsically colorless. ( B ) Band gap in the
visible range: Only the high-energy
part of the spectrum (violet to blue
to green) is absorbed, and the gem
is yellow to red. (C) Band gap less
than the energy o f visible light: All
visible radiation is absorbed and the
material is black, or displays metallic colors due to re-emission.
Artwork by Ian Newell.
Summer 1988
83
84
Summer 1988
COLORLESS
DIAMOND
TYPE 1-B
DIAMOND
(Yellow)
--
TYPE 11-0
DIAMOND
(Blue)
'I-
- VISIBLE RANGE
WAVELENGTH (nm)
I
Summer 1988
85
Figure 5 . Minute
amounts of boron contribute the intense
blue color to blue diamonds. Yellow in diamonds can arise from
a variety of processes,
011 of which are related to the presence
of nitrogen impurities.
The possible origins of
color for orange,
brown, and pink diamonds are listed in
table 4. The blue marquise shown here is
3.88 ct; the intense
yellow oval w e i g h
29.16 cts; the two intense yellow diamonds mounted in
earrings weigh a total
of 12.26 ct. Jewelry
courtesy of Harry
Winston, Inc.; photo
0 Harold d Erica
Van Pelt.
86
Summer 1988
Process
Interference
on a thin film
Diffraction
Scattering
Rayleigh
scattering
Mie scattering
Scattering
from structures
larger than
visible
wavelengths
Presence of
colored
inclusions
Summer 1988
87
88
Similar effects are encountered in some feldspars belonging to the plagioclase series. These
feldspars display regions of color, often violet to
green, against a generally black background. Finnish "Spectrolite," a variety of labradorite, appears
to show every color of the spectrum. This phenomenon is called "labradorescence," after the classic
occurrence of these stones on the Isle of Paul,
Labrador, although varieties of plagioclase feldspars other than labradorite may display this
effect. The diffracting objects in labradorescence
are alternating layers, known as exsolution
lamellae, of two feldspars with different chemical
compositions. One layer is calcium rich and the
other is calcium poor. The color created by the
lamellar structures depends on their respective
thicknesses and indices of refraction (figure 10).
Another gemstone that occasionally shows diffraction colors is andradite from Hermosillo, Mexico
Summer 1988
Incident light
/\
Summer 1988
89
Summer 1988
Summer 1988
91
TABLE 3. Descriptions, causes, and examples of phenomena in gem materials and considerations they require in
fa~hioning.~
Examples
Considerations
in fashioning
Phenomenon
Description
Cause
Iridescence
Orient
Iris quartz,
'ammolite,"
pearls
Thin film or
structure
oriented to the
girdle plane
Play-of-color
Labradorescence
Opal, feldspar
("spectrolite")
Diffraction
layers oriented
parallel to the
girdle plane
Adularescence
Feldspar
(moonstone)
No relation
Chatoyancy
("cat's-eye")
Asterism
Chrysoberyl,
corundum,
quartz,
diopside
Curved surface
(not well
focused on flat
surface)
Aventurescence
Aventurine
quartz, feldspar
(sunstone),
goldstone glass
No relation
Change-ofcolor
("Alexandrite
effect")
A major absorption band around 550600 nm cuts the visible range in two
transmission windows: one at the blue
end (dominating in daylight), the other
at the red end (dominating in
incandescent light)
Chrysoberyl
(alexandrite),
corundum,
garnet, spinel,
fluorite
Observed in
all directions,
better colors
in some
'Thitable includes all terms used lor phenomena in gem materials It describes each of the phenomena andshows how similar some 01 them are and how others
relate to one another almost in a continuum
92
Madagascar (Malagasy Republic) and some cordierites ("bloodshot iolite"). Fire opal is colored by
submicroscopic inclusions of iron hydrous oxides
(J. Koivula, pers. comm., 1988).
When the platelets are large enough to be
distinguished with the naked eye (say, when they
reach 1 mm), they can produce "aventurescence."
This term is used to describe the reflective powderlike appearance of crystalline flakes disposed a
l'oventurra (the term refers to a Murano glassfirst made in Venice, Italy- in which copper platelets have been dispersed at random).In aventurine
quartz, mica crystals colored green by chromium
sparkle when the stone is tilted back and forth.
"Sunstonefl can be either native-copper-included
labradorite (most commonly), or oligoclase containing red hematite spangles (again, see figure 1).
SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION
In most gem materials, color is caused by selective
absorption of light by different processes. In a few
Summer 1988
Summer 1988
93
Actinollte
Almandlne
Yellowish green to
green (nephrite)
Green
Red
Amber
Blue to green
Yellow to orange to
red to brown
materia1s.a
Fez+ in octahedral
coordination
Traces of Cr3
Fez* in distorted
cubic coordination
Fluorescence under
visible light in
Dominican amber;
blue is due to light
(Rayleigh) scattering in Baltic amber
Charge-transfer
processes in large
organic molecules
+
Burns, 1970
Anderson, 1954-55
Manning, 1967a
Schlee, 1984
Nassau, 1975a
Anthophylllte and
gedrite (orthoamphiboles)
Apatite series
Andradite
Yellow-green
Cr3* in octahedral
coordination
Yellow (topazolite)
to black (melanite)
Multicolor
("nuurnmite")
Pink
Dark blue
Green (demantoid)
Apophyllite
Green
Blue
Azurite
Brown
Blue
Benitoite
Blue
Beryl
Green (emerald)
and light green
("mint beryl")
Yellow to orange
(heliodor)
Red
Pink (morganite)
Calcite
Pink
Chalcedony
Purple
F vacancy with a
trapped electron
0 2 - -)MnS+ charge
transfer
V 4 + in distorted octahedral coordination
V3+ in octahedral
coordination
Fez +
Cuz+ in elongated
octahedral coordination
Fez +
charge transfer
CO; (Maxixe-type)
and NO3 (Maxixe)
color centers due
to irradiation
Fe2+ in the channels 01 the structure
FeZ+-O-Fe=* intervalence charge
transfer
--)Fe3+ charge
transfer and Fez*
in the channels
Cr3+ andlor V 3 * in
octahedral coordination
O%-+Fe3* charge
transfer
Purple
("damsonite")
Blue to greenish
blue (chrysocolla
quartz)
Green
(chrysoprase)
Marfunin. 1979b
Marfunin, 1979b
Rossman, l974a
Schmelzer. 1982
Faye, 1972
Marfunin. 1979a
Goldrnan et al.,
1978
Goldman el al.,
1978
G. Rossman, unpub data
Wood and Nassau,
1968
'This list of the origin of color in gem materials is based on spectra or explicit
discussions as they appear in the literature or have been communicated to
the authors One color can be due to a combination of processes, while
visually similar colors can have a variety of different causes Within each gem
group or subgroup, colors are listed in the order of the spectrum. from violet
through purple, blue, green, yellow, arid orange to red, and then pink, brown,
black, and white when relevant Dyes and colored coatings can be used on
many of these materials, but they are mentioned here only if they are the most
common cause o l color in a particular material
94
Summer 1988
Gem mat#rial
Qpfw(variety or
IM6 W e . if'$0~)
Chrysoberyl
Yellow
Chryaocolla
Color-change
(alexandrite)
Blue
Green (tawmawite)
Submicroscopic to
microscopic inclusions of hydrous Fe
oxides
Fe3* in octahedral
coordination
Cr3* in octahedral
coordination
Cu'+ in octahedral
coordination
Cr3- in octahedral
coordination
An organic pigment
of the bilins family.
helioporobilin
Organic pigments
from the carotenoid
family, at least lor
Corallurn rubrurn
Various organic maBlack
terials ol unknown
nature
Violet to blue (iolite) Fe7* -0-Fex*
charge transfer
Red ("bloodshot
iolite")
Corundum
Purple
I
Hematite andlor
lepidocrocite inclusions
Fe?+ -&Ti4 +
charge transfer coexisting with Cr3*
in octahedral coordination
Fe2 -0-Ti
charge transfer with
influence of Fez * -
Fe3* charge transfer
Fe3+ in octahedral
coordination coexisting with
FeZ*-Ti * charge
transfer, Ti3* and
Cr3* in octahedral
coordination
O^+Fe3+ charge
transfer
4
Green
Yellow
Orangy pink
("padparadscha")
Red (ruby)
Organic pigment
Dele-Dubois and
from the carolenoid Merlin. 1981
lamily
Cordlerlte
J Koivula, pers.
comm., 1988
Cr3* in octahedral
coordination and
color centers;
with a contribution
of Fe3
Cr3* in octahedral
coordination and
color centers
Cr4* in octahedral
coordination due to
Cr-' ' and Mg2+
substituting for two
Al3* in the crystal
structure
Cr3* in octahedral
coordination, with
Delb-Dubois ana
Merlin, 1981
Rolandi. 1981
Faye el al 1968,
Smith, 1977.
Goldman et al ,
1977
Gubelin and
Koivula, 1987
Schmetzer and
Bank. 1981
Pink
Color-change
Schmelzer and
Bank. 1981
Schmetzer el al.,
1982; Nassau and
Valente, 1987
Schmetzer and
Bank, 1981
Schittmann, 1981:
Schmetzer et al.,
1982, 1983; Nassau
and Valenle. 1987
Ferguson and Fielding, 1971
Schmetzer and
Bank, 1981
Covelllte
Crocoite
Cuprite
Red
Diamond
Blue
Schmetzer et al.,
1982, 1983
Schmetzer and
Bank, 1981
Nassau, 1983
Green
Harder. 1969; Gubelin, 1975
minor contributions
of V3+ and Fe3* in
octahedral coordination
Cr3* in octahedral
coordination
Cr3* andlor V3* in
octahedral coordination in a particular range of concentration
Band theory
Summer 1988
95
Gem material
Yellow
Orange
Brown
Green (chrome
diopside)
Dlopslde
Yellowish green
Dloptase
Green
Dravite
Green
("chrome
tourmaline")
Yellow to brown
Red
Elbaite
and
llddlcoatite
Blue
(indicolite)
Green
96
Collins, 1982
Cr3- in octahedral
coordination.
V3* in octahedral
coordination
Fez-*-in octahedral
coordination
Cu7+ in octahedral
coordination
V3+ generally with
minor amounts of
Cr3+, both in octa
hedral coordination
Related to titanium
due to Fez * -0Tid* charge transfer, with those low
in iron yellow and
those rich in iron
brown
Fe3* pairs
Rossman, 1980
Fe7* in octahedral
coordination with
possible influence
of some iron-related
charge-transfer processes
Fez+ and Ti4 in
octahedral coordination. The influence of various
charge transfer processes involving
iron is a distinct
possibility
Mnz*-0-Ti4 *
charge transfer
Collins, 1982,
Lowlher, 1984
Collins, 1982
Color (variety or
trade name, if any)
Cause
Reference
Greenish yellow
Mn7* in octahedral
coordination (rare)
Rossrnan and
Malison, 1986
Orange
Pink to red
(rubellite)
Yellow t pink
Related lo manganese, generally
believed to be due
to Mn3* in octahedral coordination.
sometimes created
by irradiation
Fez* -)TI"- charge
transfer
Fez *
Fe7 * with rninor
Cr3 *
Brown
Enstatlte
Greenish brown
Green
Violet
Blue
Collins, 1982
'Emerald" green
("chrome fluorite")
Yellowish green
Collins. 1982
Yellow
Pink
Schmetzer. 1982
Color change
Burns. 1970
Lehmann, 1978
Gahnite and
"gahnospinel"
Blue
Mie scattering on
calcium microcrystalliles
Y3+ t F vacancy
+ 2 electrons
Sm2 *
Braithwaite el al.,
1973, Lehmann,
1978
Bill and Calas,
1978
Bill and Calas.
1978: Rossman.
1981
Bill and Calas.
1978
Yellowish green
(moldavite, tektite)
Brown
Glaucophane
Blue
Grossular
Green (tsavorite)
Orange
(hessonite)
Gypsum
All (alabaster)
Hematite
Gray in reflection,
red in transmission
Green to brown
Malison, as ciled in
Dietrich, 1985
Rossman and
Malison, 1986
Burns, 1970
Schmetzer and
Bank, 1979
Rossman and
Malison, 1986
Rossman, 1980
Anderson, 1954-55
Hornblende
and pargaslte
Howlite
Blue
Fep* in octahedral
coordination
Fe3+ in octahedral
coordination
FeS t 4 - ~ +~ 3
charge transfer
V3.- in octahedral
coordination
Mn3+ in distorted
cubic coordination:
Fea
Pye el al , 1984
Pye et al., 1984
Smith and Strens,
1976
Gubelin and
Weibei, 1975
Manning. 1970
Fez+ in various
sites
Dyes exclusively
Rossman. 1988
Summer 1988
'1
Cr3* in octahedral
coordination
Mnz* in octahedral
coordination
'Emerald green
Cr3- in octahedral
Jadeite
(chrome ladeite)
coordination
Yellowish green
Fe3* in octahedral
cwrdination
Few -O-Fe3 *
Violet ("lavender
charge transfer:
jadeite")
synthetic is colored
by Mns*
Cr3- in octahedral
Blue
Kornerupine
coordination
V3* in octahedral
Green
coordination
Fez t -0-Ti4 *
Kyanite
Blue
charge transfer.
Fez + -0-Fe3 '
charge transfer.
Fez* and Fe3* in
octahedral coordination can all be
involved:
with contribution
from Cr3- in octahedral coordination
Green
V3- in octahedral
coordination;
Fe3* in octahedral
coordination
Cr3 ' in octaColor change
hedral coordination
Diffraction of light
Mullicolors
Labradorlte
by the internal
lamellar structure
Red (in the material Subrnicroscopic
Irorn Oregon)
metallic copper
particles
Green and orange- Could be Cu *
IVCT or CuO pairs
pink, pleochroisrn
Fez * -0-Fe3 *
Blue
charge transfer
Lazurite
Blue (lapis lazuli)
83 (charge
transfer)
Pink
Mn2+ in octahedral
cwrdination,
Mna* in octahedral
coordination
Liddlcoatite (see elbaite)
Malachite
Green
Cuz* in octahedral
coordination
Green
Maw-sit-sit
Cr31 in octahedral
coordination in the
(rock)
kosrnochlor
Blue (arnazonite)
Color center involving Pb3 and
slructural water
Nephrite (see actinol~le)
Oligoclase
Blue (moonstone)
Rayleigh scattering
of light by lamellar
structure
Red (sunstone)
Red lepidocrocite
or hematite
platelets give the
aventurescence
Hydrogrossular
group
Green ("Transvaal
lade")
Pink
"
Ollvine group:
Forsterite-fayalite
series
Opal
Manning and
Owens, 1977
Manning and
Owens, 1977
Rossrnan, 1981
Rossrnan, 1981
Rossman, 1974b
Nassau and
Shigley. 1987
Schrnetzer, 1982
Schrnetzer 1982
Parkin el al., 1977
Schrnetzer. 1982
Marfunin, 1979a
Green
(prase opal)
Marlunin, 1979a
Khornenko and
Platonov, 1985
Yellow
Orthoclase
Pink lo red
Hofrneister and
Rossman. 1985a
Lehrnann, 1978
Pearls (oyster)
Body color
All colors
J. Koivula, pers,
cornrn., 1988;
Lehrnann, 1978
Green
Pink
Yellowish green
(peridot)
Green (peridot, the
material from
Hawaii)
Fe7- in octahedral
coordination
Fez+ with minor
amounts of C r < - 'in
octahedral coor'
dination
Darragh and
Sanders, 1965
Orient and
overtone
Pectolite
Phosphophylllte
Bluish green
Piemontite
Purplish red
J Koivula, pers
comm 1980
Hofmeister and
Rossman, 1983
Andersen, 1915,
J Koivula, pers
cornm , 1908
Fox el al.. 1903
Fox el al , 1903
E. Fntsch. unpub
data
Cu2+ in octahedral Koivula. 1986a
coordination
Fe2 *
G. Rossman. unpub. data
Mn3* in octahedral Burns. 1970
coordination
Plagloclase series
Blue
Green ("greened
amethyst" or
prasiolite)
Green (aventurine
quartz)
Greenish yellow
Yellow to orange
(citrine)
Zolensky el al.,
Inclusions of
ilmenite of a diame- 1988
ter smaller than visible wavelengths
Fe2+
Nassau. 1980
Chromian mica
Lehmann. 1978
(fuchsite) inclusions
Color center
Nassau and
Prescolt, 1977
0 2 - +Fe3* charge
Balitsky and
transfer
Balitskaya, 1986
Various AP+-reSamoilwich el al.,
lated color centers 1969
Smoky (smoky
quartz)
Pink (rose quartz)
Serpentine
Green (williamsite)
Shattuckite
Shell
Blue
Pink (see
conch shell)
Sinhalite
Brown
Smithsonlte
Blue-green
A violet organic
pigment, haliotiviolin, has been
recovered from the
shell of the black
abalone, Haliotis
cracherodii
Fez + -O-T~charge transfer,
probably similar to
blue kyanite
Fe3+ or Cr3* in
tetrahedral coordination
Fe features of yellow sillimanite plus
inclusions of ironrich phase
0Z-+Fe3* charge
transfer and Fez+
in octahedral coordination
Cup+
Pink
CoZ *
Blue
Interstitial oxygen
ion 0 - near Al or
Si
Unstable electron
substituting for Clin a tetrahedron of
Na* ions
Blue
Yellow
Brown
Sodalite
Pink (hackmanite)
Maschrneyer and
Lehmann, 1983
Rossman, 1988
Marshall and
Runcinam, 1975
Gibbons et al.,
1974
G. Rossman, unpub. data
Black
98
Marlunin, 1979b
Not proven:
Gunawardene,
1986
J. Koivula, pers.
comm,, 1988
Fleischer, 1987
Rossman et al.,
1982
Rossman et al.,
1982
Rossman el al.,
1982
Farrell and
Newnharn, 1965
Summer 1988
Spessartine
Orange
Mn2 in distorted
cubic coordination
Manning, 1967a
Sphalerite
Yellow to black
Iron + sulfur
charge transfer
Co2+ in tetrahedral
coordination
Madunin, t979a
Green
Marfunin, 1979a
Violet to purple
Cobalt blue
Bluish green
Green (synthetic
spinel)
Pink to red
Spodumene
Purple to pink
(kunzite)
Emerald green
(hiddenile)
Staurolite
'
Paler green
Greenish yellow to
brownish orange
Brown
Blue
Sugilite
Purple
Red to violet
Titanite
(sphene)
Green
Green (chrome
sphene)
Pink
Topaz
Blue
Green
Yellow
Orange ("imperial
topaz")
Pink
Tortoise shell
Reddish brown
("sherry topaz")
Yellow to brown
Cra+ in octahedral
coordination and
Fez+ in tetrahedral
coordination
Co2+ and Fez* in
tetrahedral coordination
Fe3+ and Fe7* in
tetrahedral coordination
Cr3* in octahedral
coordination
Cra- in octahedral
coordination
Shigley and
Stockton. 1984
G. Rossman, unpub. data
Vogel, 1934
Vogel. 1934;
Anderson. 195455; Surnin, 1950
Mn3* in tetrahedral Hassan and Labib,
1978;
coordination.
Mn3+ in octahedral Cohen and
Janezic. 1983
coordination
Cr3* in octahedral Cohen and Janezic,
1983
coordination with
also unstable Mn4
color center.
V3- in octahedral
Schmetzer, 1982
coordination
Cohen and Janezic,
Unstable Mn4* in
1983
octahedral coordination plus Fez*
) Fe3* charge
transfer
Fe3 + in octahedral E. Frilsch, unpub.
coordination
data
Color center of un- Rossman and Oiu,
known structure
1982
Fez+ in tetrahedral Burns. 1970
coordination
Co-"+ in tetrahedral Cech el al., 1981
coordination
Mn3* and FeJ*.
Shigley et al., 1987
presumably in octahedral coordination
Cr3+ in octahedral Schrnetzer, 1983
coordination
High Fe content
Mottana and
Griffin. 1979
Cr3* in octahedral Schmetzer, 1982
coordination
Mn2+ in octahedral Moltana and Gnlfin,
coordination, for
1979
certain MnIFe ratios, as well as pink
carbonate inclusions
Color centers of un- Schmelzer. 1986
known structure
Yellow and blue
Petrw, 1977
color centers
Color center of un- Petrov. 1977
known nature
Yellow color center Petrw. 1977
and Cr3* in octahedral coordination
Cr3* in octahedral Petrov, 1977
coordination
Petrov, 1977
Yellow and red
color centers
Charge transfer in
Nassau. 1975a
organic products
Hawthorne. 1981
Povarennykh el al.,
1971
Diaz et al., 1971
Manning, 1969,
Calas, 1978
Schmetzer and
Bank, 1979.
Schmetzer, 1982
Anderson, 195455:
Koivula. 1986b
Manning, 1976,
1977
Manning. 1977
Manning, 1977
G Rossman, unpub. data
Embrey el al., 1977
EdSOn, 1980
Mackey el al,, 1975
Fielding, 1970
Hurlbut, 1969
G . Rossrnan, un
pub. data
Hurlbut, 1965
Schrnetzer, 1982
Marfunin, 1979a
Summer 1988
99
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of color in brown vesuvianite. Canadian Mineralogist,
Vol. 15, pp. 508-51 1.
Manning EG., Owens D.R. (19771 Electron microprobe, X-ray
diffraction, and spectral studies of South African and
British Columbian "jades." Canadian Mineralogist, Vol.
15, pp. 512-517.
Manson D.V, Stockton C.M. (1982) Gem-quality grossular
garnets. Gems 01 Gemology, Vol. 18, No. 4, pp. 204-213.
Marfunin A.S. (1979a) Physics of Minerals and Inorganic
Materials, An Introduction. Trans. by N. G. Egorova and
A. G. Mishchenko, Springer Verlag, Berlin.
Marfunin A.S. (1979b)Spectroscopy, Luminescence and Radiation Centers inMinerals. P a n s . by V V Schiffer, Springer
Verlag, Berlin.
Marshall M., Runcinam WA. (1975)The absorption spectrum
of rhodonite. American Mineralogist, Vol. 60, pp. 88-97.
Maschmeyer D., Lehmann G. (1983) A trapped-hole center
causing rose coloration of natural quartz. Zeitschrift fiir
Kristallograpbie, Vol. 163, pp. 181-196.
Mattson S.M., Rossman G.R. (1984)Ferric iron in tourmaline.
Physics and Chemistry of Minerals, Vol. 11, pp. 225-234.
Mattson S.M., Rossman G.R. (1987)Identifying characteristics
of charge transfer transitions in minerals. Physics and
Chemistry of Minerals, Vol. 14, pp. 94-99.
Moore R.K., White WB. (1971) Intervalence electron transfer
effects in the spectra of the melanite garnets. American
Mineralogist, Vol. 56, pp. 826-840.
Mottana A., Griffin WL. (1979)Pink titanite (greenovite) from
St. Marcel, Valle D'Aosta, Italy. Rendiconti Societa ltaliana di Mineralogia e Petrologia, Vol. 35, pp. 135-143.
Nassau K. (1975a)The origin of color in gems and minerals. Part
2. Gems a) Gemology, Vol. 15, No. 1, pp. 2-11.
Nassau K. (1975b)The origin of color in gems and minerals. Part
3. Gems a ) Gemohgy, Vol. 15, No. 2, pp. 34-43.
Nassau K. (1980) Gems Made by Man. Chilton Book Co.,
Radnor, PA.
Nassau K. (1983) The Physics and Chemistry of Color: The
Fifteen Causes of Color. John Wiley & Sons, New York.
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Stoneham, MA.
Nassau K., Prescott E. (1977)Smoky, blue, greenish yellow and
other irradiation-related colors in quartz. Mineralogical
Magazine, Vol. 41, pp. 301-312.
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27-35.
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sapphire and their stability to light. Gems &) Gemology,
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Summer 1988
101
Partlow D.l?, Cohen A.J. (1986) Optical studies of biaxial Alrelated color centers in smoky quartz. American Minercilogist, Vol. 71, pp. 589-598.
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868-870.
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nature of radiation-produced citrine coloration in quartz.
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615-618.
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27-38.
102
Summer 1988
Back Issues of
:all 1983
Fall 1984
Spring 1981
Zabargad: The Ancient Peridot Island in the Red Sea
Cubic Zirconia: An Update
A Simple Approach to Detecting Diamond Simulants
The Hidden Beauty of Amber
Artificially Induced Color in Amethyst-Citrine Quartz
Winter 1981
Lapis-Lazuli from Sar-e-Sang, Badakhshan,
Afghanistan
Gem Garnets in the Red-to-Violet Color Range
San Carlos Peridot
Irradiated Topaz and Radioactivity
Nonfading Maxixe-Type Beryl?
The Cutting Properties of Kunzite
Spring 1983
Art Deco: The Period, the Jewelry
The Capao Topaz Deposit. Ouro Preto, Brazil
Harry Winston: A Story Told in Diamonds
Padparadscha: What's in a Name?
A New Classification for Red-to-Violet Garnets
A Response to "A New Classification"
Fall 1983
The Ramaura Synthetic Ruby
The Oil Treatment of Emeralds in Bogota, "Colombia
A Computer Program for Gem Identification
The Identification of Turquoise by Infrared
Spectroscopy and X-ray Powder Diffraction
Winter 1983
Engraved Gems: A Historical Perspective
Gem Andradite Garnets
The Rubies of Burma: The Mogok Stone Tract
Induced Fingerprints
Cobalt Glass as a Lapis-Lazuli Imitation
Summer 1984
Gem-Bearing Pegmatites: A Review
Gem Pegmatites of Minas Gerais, Brazil: Exploration,
Occurrence, and Aquamarine Deposits
The First-Order Red Compensator
Fall 1984
Freshwater Pearls of North America
The Chemical Distinction of Natural from Synthetic
Emeralds
Identifying Gem-Quality Synthetic Diamonds:
An Update
Inclusions in Taaffeites from Sri Lanka
Magnetic Properties of Gem-Quality Synthetic
Diamonds
Winter 1984
Natural Rubies with Glass-Filled Cavities
Pyrope-Spessartine Garnets with Unusual Color
Behavior
Gem-Quality Red Beryl from Utah
An Extraordinary Calcite Gemstone
Green Opal from East Africa
Spring 1985
Gem Pegmatites ol Minas Gerais, Brazil: The
Tourmalines of the Araquai Districts
Sapphire from Cauca, Colombia
Altering the Color of Topaz
A Preliminary Report on the New Lechleitner
Synthetic Ruby and Synthetic Blue Sapphire
Interesting Red Tourmaline from Zambia
Summer 1985
Pearl Fashion Through the Ages
Russian Flux-Grown Synthetic Emeralds
Gem Pegmatites of Minas Gerais, Brazil: The
Tourmalines of the Governador Valadares District
The Eyepiece Pointer
Winter 198-1
Winter 1986
-
Winter 1983
--
ORDER
NOW!
1986 and
1987 set
Winter 1985
A Status Report on Gemstones from Afghanistan
A Proposed New Classification for Gem-Quality
Garnets
Amethystine Chalcedony
The Pearl in the Chicken
Spring 1986
A Survey of the Gemstone Resources of China
The Changma Diamond District, Mengyin, Shandong
Province, China
Gemstone Carving in China: Winds of Change
A Gemological Study of Turquoise in China
The Gemological Characteristics of Chinese Peridot
The Sapphires of Mingxi, Fujian Province, China
Summer 1986
The Coscuez Mine: A Major Source of Colombian
Emeralds
The Elahera Gem Field in Central Sri Lanka
Some Unusual Sillimanite Cat's-Eyes
An Examination of Four Important Gems
Green Glass Made of Mount Saint Helens Ash?
Fall 1986
A Simple Procedure to Separate Natural from
Synthetic Amethyst on the Basis of Twinning
Pink Topaz from Pakistan
Carbon Dioxide Fluid Inclusions as Proof of NaturalColored Corundum
Contributions to a History of Gemology: Specific
Gravity-Origins and Development of the
Hydrostatic Method
Colombage-Ara Scheelite
Winter 1986
The Gemological Properties of the Sumitomo GemQuality Synthetic Yellow Diamonds
Art Nouveau: Jewels and Jewelers
Contemporary Intarsia: The Medvedev Approach
A l s o available
Spring 1987
"Modern" Jewelry: Retro to Abstract
Infrared Spectroscopy in Gem Identification
A Study of the General Electric Synthetic Jadeite
A New Gem Material from Greenland: Iridescent
Orthoamphibole
Summer 1987
Gemstone Durability: Design to Display
The Occurrence and Gemological Properties of
Wessels Mine Sugilite
Three Notable Fancy-Color Diamonds' Purplish
Red, Purple-Pink, and Reddish Purple
The Separation of Natural from Synthetic Emeralds
by Infrared Spectroscopy
The Rutilated Topaz Misnomer
Fall 1987
An Update on Color in Gems. Part I
The Lennix Synthetic Emerald
An investigation of the Products of Kyocera Corp.
that Show Play-of-Color
Man-Made Jewelry Malachite
Inamori Synthetic Cat's-Eye Alexandrite
Winter 1987
The Gemological Properties of the De Beers GemQuality Synthetic Diamonds
The History and Gemology of Queen Conch
"Pearls"
The Seven Types of Yellow Sapphire and Their
Stability to Light
GXG
Suhscrintions
NOTES
A N D
NEW TECHNIQUES
PASTEL PYROPES
By Carol M.Stoclzton
Pyrope garnets occur i n near-colorless t o light orange
and pink, as well as the familiar red. Because the
pale-hued pyropes are unfamiliar to gemologists,
their l o w refractive index usually results in their m i s identification as grosszilar. This note clarifies the
means b y which these unusual garnets, predomin a n t l y from East Africa, can b e properly and easily
identified w i t h a refractometer and a spectroscope.
104
Summer 1988
Figure 1. All four o f the garnets pictured here are pyropes. The typical chrome
pyrope at bottom l e f t ( G I A
#13113, 1.08 ct) has a refractive index o f 1.740. The
orange pyrope ( G I A # 14400,
1.61 c t ) has a n R.I. of 1.732
and i s colored b y iron, and
the pink pear shape ( G I A
#14002, 3.43 ct) i s colored
b y a trace of chromium and
has a n R.I. of 1.740. T h e
pale orange stone at the top
(3.56 ct; courtesy of Tsavo
Madini) has a 1.732 refractive index and contains
manganese as its coloring
agent. Photo 0 Tino
Hammid.
Summer 1988
REFERENCES
Chopin C. (1984) Coesite and pure pyrope in high-grade
blueschists o f the western Alps: A first record and some
consequences. Contributions to Mineralogy and Petrology. Vol. 86, pp. 107-118.
Deer WA., Howie R.A., Zussman J.(1982)Rock-forming Minerals, Vol. IA, Orthosilicates, 2nd ed. Longman Group
Ltd., London.
DeLandero C.E. (1891) O n pink grossularite from Mexico.
American Journal of Science, Vol. 41, pp. 321-322.
Ford WE. (1915)A study of the relations existing between the
chemical, optical and other physical properties of the
members of the garnet group. American Journal of Science, Ser. 4, Vol. 40, No. 235, pp. 33-49.
Manning EG. (1969) Optical absorption studies of grossular,
andradite (var.colophonite) and uvarovite. Canadian Mineralogist, Vol. 9, pp. 723-729.
Manning EG. (1972) Optical absorption spectra of Fe3+ in
octahedral and tetrahedral sites in natural garnets. Canadian Mineralogist, Vol. l l , pp. 826-839.
106
Colora
R.I. range
Pyrope
Colorless to
light orange
and pink
1.714-1.742
Grossular
Colorless to
light orange
and oink
1.734-1.760
Pyropespessartine
(incl. rnalaia)
Light orange
and pink
1.742-1.780
Pyropealmandine
(incl.
rhodolite)
Pink
1.742-1.785
Characteristic
absorption
bands (in nm)
None to one
or more of
410, 421, 430,
504, 520, 573
Usually none;
orange may
show weak
430 and even
weaker 408
Strong 410,
421, 430;
weak 504,
520, 573
Strong 504,
520, 573;
weak 410,
421, 430
Summer 1988
EXAMINATION OF THREE-PHASE
INCLUSIONS IN COLORLESS, YELLOW, AND
BLUE SAPPHIRES FROM SRI LANKA
By Karl Schmetzer and Olaf Medenbach
Three-phrase inclusions i n untreated natural colorless, yellow, and blue sapphires from Sri Lanka were
found to consist of liquid and gaseous carbon dioxide cis well as needle-like to tabular crystals of diaspore. The identification of diaspore was accomplished through the use of a microscope-mounted
drill system and an improved version o f the Gandolfi
X-ray camera. Technical details for both methods are
given. The conditions under which diaspore forms as
a daughter mineral in corundum are briefly discussed.
Summer 1988
107
Figure 1. Three-phase- solid, liquid, and gas inclusions are readily visible in this yellow sapphire
from Sri Lanka. Note i n the top two photos how the
gaseous bubble is able to move about the crystal
without restriction. With gentle heating i n an
immersion liquid, the gas bubbles gradually
decreased in volume until they were totally
homogenized (bottom right), at which point the
temperature of the immersion liquid was measured
in an attempt to verify the identity of the gas. The
transparent, needle-like to tabular mineral inclusions
are attached to the walls of the negative crystals.
Magnified 65 x .
DESCRIPTION OF THE
THREE-PHASE INCLUSIONS
We observed two- and three-phase inclusions in
approximately 20% of the more than 300 untreated colorless, light yellow, bluish, or blue sapphires from Sri Lanka that we examined. All of
these inclusions were in the form of thin tabular
negative crystals with the tabular face of the
negative crystal parallel to the basal pinacoid
(0001)of the corundum host. The tabular negative
crystals were filled with liquid and generally
contained one gaseous bubble, which was able to
move around without any restriction within the
negative crystals. In about 30% of the negative
crystals, needle-like to tabular transparent mineral inclusions were observed (figure 1); examination with crossed polarizers showed that they were
doubly refractive (figure 2). These mineral inclusions were attached to the walls of the negative
crystals. In some cases, they lay diagonally across
the entire cavity; in others, they projected into the
108
Summer 1988
Summer 1988
109
110
Summer 1988
REFERENCES
De Bruiyn H., van der Westhuizen WA., Beukes G.J. (1984) A
device for the easy centeringof a Gandolfi X-ray diffraction
camera. 10~1rnalof Applied Crystallography, Vol. 17, pp.
120-121.
Dahanayake K. (1980)Modes of occurrence and provenance of
gemstones of Sri Lanka. Minerali~lmDeposita, Vol. 15, pp.
81-86.
Dahanayake K., Liyanage A.N., Ranasinghe A.P. (1980)Genesis
of sedimentary gem deposits in Sri Lanka. Sedimentary
Geology, Vol. 25, pp. 105-1 15.
Dahanayake K., Ranasinghe A.P. (1981) Source rocks of gem
minerals. Mineraliun~Deposita, Vol. 16, pp. 103-1 1 1.
Dahanayake K., Ranasinghe A.P (1985) Geology and mineralogy of gemming terrains of Sri Lanka. Bulletin of the
Geological Society of Finland, Vol. 57, pp. 139-149.
Deer WA., Howie R.A., Zussrnan J. (1962) Rock-Forming
Minerals, Vol, 5, Non-Silicates. Longman, London.
Gandolfi G. (1964) Methodo per ottenere uno "spettro di
polveri" da un cristallo singolo di piccole dimensioni (fino
a 30 ~).'Mineralogica et Petrographic[: Actci, Vol. 10, pp.
149-166.
Gandolfi G. (1967) Discussion upon methods to obtain X-ray
"powder patterns" from a single crystal. Minemlogica el
Petrogfaphica Acta, Vol. 13, pp. 67-74.
Graziani G. (1983)Advances in the study of mineral inclusions.
N e w s Jahrbuch fur Mineralogie Monatshefte, Vol. 11, pp.
48 1 4 8 8 .
Grubessi O., Marcon R. (1986)A peculiar inclusion in a yellow
corundum from Malawi. Journal of Gemmology Vol. 20,
pp. 163-165.
Griittner A., Yvon K., Delaloye N. (1978)Easy crystal centering
in a modified Gandolfi camera. Journal ofApplied Crystallography, Vol. 11, p. 716.
Gubelin E.J., Koivula J.I. (1986) Photoatlas of Inclusions in
Gemstones. ABC Verlag, Zurich.
Katz M.B. (1971) The Precambrian metamorphic rocks of
Ceylon. Geologische Rundschau, Vol. 60, pp. 1523-1549.
Katz M.B. (1972) On the origin of the Ratnapura-type gem
deposits of Ceylon. Economic Geology and the Bulletin of
the Society of Econon~icGeologists, Vol. 67, pp. 113-1 15.
Katz M.B. (1986)Review of the geology of the gemstones of Sri
Lanka. Australian Gemmologist, Vol. 16, pp. 52-56, 63.
Koivula, J.I. (1986) Carbon dioxide fluid inclusions as proof of
natural-colored corundum. Gems es) Gen~oloey,Vol. 22,
No. 3, pp. 152-155.
Kiefert L., Schmetzer K. 11986) Rosafarbene und violette Sapphire aus Nepal. Zcitschrift der Deutschen Gemmologischen Gesellscl~(ift,Vol. 35, pp. 113-125.
Summer 1988
111
EDITOR
C. W. Fryer
Gem Trade Laboratory, Santa Monica
LAB NOTES
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Robert Crowningshield
Gem Trade Laboratory, New York
Karin N. Hurwit
Gem Trade Laboratory, Santa Monica
Robert E. Kane
Gem Trade Laboratory, Santa Monica
Figure 2. The
grayish
purple color of this 0.21-ct diamond appears to be caused by
graining.
I
+
Figure 1. One leg of this 2.52ct star almandite garnet is s o
weak that the stone appears to
be a cat's-eye. Magnified 1 0 X .
DIAMOND
Grayish Purple
In our experience, truly purple diamonds are very rare. A short time ago
the East Coast laboratory tested the
0.21-ct grayish purple stone shown in
figure 2. The natural color appears to
be the result of grayish purple grain-
112
Saint Valentine's
Inclusion
One of our New York clients was
handling a 13.08-ct marquise-shaped
diamond just in time for a sale as a St.
Valentine's day present. On closer
examination, he was delighted to
find that the diamond contained a
heart-shaped inclusion (figure 3).
One of the advantages of inclusions is that they can provide proof of
a stone's identity and ownership.
How much better it is when the
inclusion is as unusual, attractive,
and appropriate as this one.
Clciyton Welch
Treated Pink
According to some of the people who
color enhance diamonds commercially, pink in a treated stone is
usually a n accident of the treatment
process. In most of these rare cases,
the treater is trying for a fancy yellow
color when, for some unknown reason, the stone turns pink instead.
Fourteen pink diamonds, ranging from 1.5 m m to 4.0 m m in
diameter, were recently seen in our
East Coast laboratory. They had been
represented to our client as naturalcolor pink diamonds from Australia.
However, the 575-nm fluorescent
line and 594-nm and 637-nm absorption lines proved that the color was
the result of treatment. Further proof
was provided by additional lines in
the red area of the spectrum, at
approxin~ately620 and 630 nm, that
are typical of treatment.
These treated stones are color
zoned yellow and pink. The zoning
appears to be related to a zoned
fluorescence that is also evident
when the stones are exposed to long-
Summer 1988
Biron Synthetic
EMERALD
The West Coast laboratory received a
Biron synthetic emerald for identification that displayed higher refractive indices (1.570-1.578) and birefringence (0.008) than we had previously observed. The Fall 1985 issue
of Gems d Gemology (pp. 156-170)
reported on the extensive examination of 202 samples of Biron synthetic emerald. Those stones all
showed R.1.k of 1.569 to 1.573 or
1.574, with a corresponding birefringence of 0.004 or 0.005. Although
higher refractive indices ranging up
to 1.570-1.577, with a birefringence
of 0.007, had been reported in the
literature by others, this is the first
such stone we have examined. The
inclusions and other gemological
Editor's Note: The initials at the end of each
item identity the contributing editor who
provided that item.
@ 7988 Gemological Institute of America
Summer 1988
PEARLS
Figure 6. This natural-color judeite jade hololith (27.1 rnm in outside diameter) displays an unusually strong contrast between the
green and white areas.
tions of this variegated piece. Microscopic examination revealed a fine
crystalline structure, with an almost
fibrous appearance to the green portion. To a gemologist not familiar
with this type of jadeite, this appearance could be mistaken for dye concentrations; however, the prominent
chromium lines in the red area of the
absorption spectrum easily prove
that the color is of natural origin.
RK
Teapot
The West Coast laboratory also recently examined the magnificent
"white" jadeite jade teapot shown in
figure 7. The entire piece measures
114
19 c m long x 10 c m wide x 12 c m
high (with the lid). The thickness of
the domed portion of the delicate and
beautifully carved lid ranges from
0.3 m m to 2.7 m m . We could not
measure the thickness of the center
portion of the teapot, but we estimated that it ranges from approximately 2 m m to 4 mm. Some areas,
such as the carved ridges and portions of the spout, are, of course,
much thicker.
The identity of the carving as
jadeite was based on the standard
gemological properties for this gem
material: R.I. of 1.66, an aggregate
reaction in the polariscope, specific
gravity estimated with heavy liquids
Imitation
The East Coast laboratory recently
had the opportunity to examine the
earrings shown in figure 9. The dropshape "pearls" (approximately 10 x
14 m m )proved to be a glass imitation
with essence d'orient coating. However, the smaller pearls were of natural origin. The style and quality of
manufacture of the earrings strongly
suggest that the imitations were
probably replacements.
Just when this type of imitation
pearl (solid glass with essence d'orient) supplanted the older wax-filled
type is not known. If the earrings
were made in Edwardian times (late
1800s to early 1900s) as the style
suggests, would these imitations
have been the wax-filled type? Max
Bauer, writing in 1896, did not mention essence-coated solid glass beads
in the imitation-pearl section of his
great book Precious Stones. He does
mention, however, that the hollow
glass types were made in many
shapes, including spherical, oval,
pear shape, and even baroque. R C
A Rare Cultured Pearl
Another mystery encountered in the
East Coast laboratory is shown in
figure 10, a routine X-radiograph of
an unusually fine necklace of uni-
Summer 1988
- -
Summer 1988
115
Figure 11. A search for evidence of diamond in the decorative material on this earring
revealed only plastic on the
metal backing.
116
Summer 1988
Synthetic SAPPHIRES
In the Lab Notes section of the Summer 1987 issue of Gems &> Gemolog,y, we reported on unusually strong
curved color banding in a synthetic
yellow sapphire. More recently, the
East Coast laboratory had the opportunity to examine two synthetic yellow sapphires that were unusual in
other ways.
When no color zoning or inclusions are present in a yellow sapphire, it is standard procedure to use
i m m e r s i o n , magnification, a n d
crossed polarizers to look for Plato
lines as proof of synthesis. One of the
two stones we examined displayed
such strong Plato lines that they
were actually visible without magnification or immersion (figure 15). In
contrast, the second stone showed no
discernable Plato lines at all, which
is unusual for a flame-fusion synthetic yellow sapphire. This stone
was proved to be synthetic when
high magnification revealed the presence of several small gas bubbles.
An interesting blue synthetic
sapphire, also examined in New
York, showed two sets of curved color
banding that intersected each other
at a very shallow angle. This is
clearly indicated in figure 16 by the
wedge of blue with its point almost
dead center in the photo. The wedge
marks the boundary between the
two sets of banding, which are probably a result of changes in the growth
conditions while the boule was being
formed.
Clayton Welch
Brecciated
TIGER'S-EYE QUARTZ
The West Coast laboratory recently
received for identification two interesting pieces of brecciated (i.e., containing angular fragments naturally
cemented together into one mass)
tiger's-eye quartz. Our client had obtained the samples from a deposit in
South Africa. The polished slab
shown in figure 17 (8.2 cm long x 3.4
m m thick] illustrates quite well the
Summer 1988
117
FIGURE CREDITS
Figures 1 , 3, 5 , 9, 15, and 16 were supplied
by Clayton Welch. Dave Hargell look photos 2 and 4. Shane McClure is responsible
lor ligures 7, 8 , 17, and 18. Figure 6 is 0
Harold and Erica Van Pelt. The X-radiograph in figure 10 was taken by Tom Moses.
Karin Hurwit took the photos in ligures 1 1
and 12. Figures 13 and 14 came Iron?John
Koivula. Sotheby-Parke-Bernel supplied
the photo 01 the original pink diamond used
in the "Historical Note"; Andrew Quinlan
took the photo 01 the "painted" stone.
A HISTORICAL NOTE
Highlights from the Gem Trade Lab 25, 15, and five years ago
SUMMER 1963
One of the most unusual items encountered 25 years ago in the New
York lab was petrified dinosaur bone.
The material is believed to occur in
several localities in the western
United States. The stones examined
had a mosaic structure of reddish to
yellowish chalcedony replacing part
of the bone, with the balance of the
material intact as calcium carbo-
118
SUMMER 1973
The highlight of the Summer 1973
GTLN column from Los Angeles was
the identification of the very rare
material jeremejevite. A 1.52-ct long
slender emerald cut was submitted
Summer 1988
SUMMER 1983
\ -
Sun~mer1988
DIAMONDS
Diamond dredging in a big way. During Gem News
editor 1ohn Koivula's visit to Brazil in the fall of 1987, he
observed the operation of the "Tejucana diamond
dredgell' an unusually large and efficient floating earth
mover-processor that is currently operating near the
city of Diamantina' in Minas Gerais (figure 1). Modeled
after the gold dredges used in the western United States
in the early 1 9 0 0 ~this
~ dredge has been considerably
enlarged
., and modernized to handle diamonds as we11 as
gold. It is reported to be approximately 90% effective in
its recovery of both diamonds (the primary target) and
gold,
The Teiucana d r e d ~ floats
e
on a lake that it manufactures by'diverting nearby streams, in an area where
diamondiferous gravels have been identified in ancient
riverbeds. As i t moves slowly alongl the dredge excavates
[down to the bedrock) all of the soils and gravels in its
path. A conveyor system of buckets 3-4 ft. in diameter
(figure 2) carries these materials into the processing
plant atop the dredge. Here the gravels are mechanically
sorted by size and density, and the gold and diamonds are
eventually separated out. Once processing has been
completedl the residual gravels and other materials are
ejected from the dredge into piles on either side of, and
\
\:
120
Gem News
\
\
Summer 1988
Figure 2. Dredge 17uckets on the Tejzzcana diamond dredge systematically scrape the river
bottom and bring all of the materjal into the
bv Krjsti A. Koivula.
d r e d ~ ef6r i o r t i n ~ Photo
.
Gem News
Sunlmer 1988
121
122
Gem News
Summer 1988
Gem News
For more information and reservations, contact: Promaz BVBA! Lamounierestraat 69-71, B2018
Antwerp! Belgium; telephone
(031 239-5 1-22.
The Hong Kong Jewelry & Watch
Fair is scheduled for September
18-21, 1988, at five area hotels in
Hong Kong. Over 500 exhibitors
from 25 countries will be represented. For information! contact:
Headway Trade Fairs, Ltd.! 91F
Sing-Ho Finance Building! 168
Gloucester Roadl Hong Kong; telephone 5-8335121.
Summer 1988
123
GEMOLOGICAL ABSTRACTS
Dona M. Dirlam, Editor
REVIEW BOARD
Juli L. Cook
GIA, Santa Monica
Barton C . Curren
Topanga Canyon, California
Stephanie L. Dillon
San Clemente, California
Bob E Effler
GIA, Santa Monica
Emmanuel Fritsch
GIA, Santa Monica
Joseph 0. Gill
Gill & Shorten Ltd., San Francisco
Patricia A. S. Gray
Bangkok, Thailand
Mahinda Gunawardene
Idar-Oberstein, Germany
Gary S. Hill
GIA, Santa Monica
Steve C . Hofer
Canton, Connecticut
Karin N. Hurwit
Gem Trade Lab, Inc., Santa Monica
Robert C. Kammerling
GIA, Santa Monica
Neil Letson
Palm Beach, Florida
Shane E McClure
Gem Trade Lab, Inc., Los Angeles
COLORED STONES A N D
ORGANIC MATERIALS
Beryl: A summary. J. Sinkankas, Rocks and Minerals,
Vol. 63, No. 1, 1988, pp. 10-22.
Sinkankas presents a wonderful article based on his now
out-of-print Emerald and Other Beryls. The most common variety of beryl is the so-called common berylpoorly formed, non-gem quality beryl with value only
as the primary ore of beryllium. In order of abundance
(from most to least), the varieties of gem beryl include
blue to bluish green aquamarine, golden beryl (sometimes called heliodor), and morganite (pale peach or pink
124
Gemological Abstracts
Elise B. Misiorowski
GIA, Santa Monica
Gary A. Roskin
GIA, Santa Monica
James E. Shigley
GIA, Santa Monica
Franceye Smith
GIA, Santa Monica
Carol M. Stockton
GIA, Santa Monica
Robert Weldon
GIA, Santa Monica
Summer 1988
Zur Deutung der Farbursache blauer Saphire - eine Diskussion (The cause of colour in blue sapphire - a
discussion). K. Schmetzer, Neues Jahrbuch fur
Mineralogie Monatshefte, Vol. 8, 1987, pp.
337-343.
This article provides an overview of the causes of color
in blue sapphires from various localities. The origin of
color in blue sapphire historically has been related to the
presence of Fe2++Ti4+ intervalence absorption, sometimes induced by heat treatment. Other components
may also be present in the spectrum, such as Fe3'absorptions, and sometimes Fe2 4Fe3 charge transfer.
Blue sapphires of desirable color from Kashmir, Mogok,
Umba Valley, and Montana, as well as Verneuil synthetic
sapphires, show Fe2++Ti4+ charge transfer with weak
Fe3+ bands but no Fe2++Fe3+ charge transfer. The less
desirable greenish blue stones from Australia, Nigeria,
Thailand, and Kenya display intense Fe3+ bands and
variable amounts of Fe2+->Ti4+ and Fe2+->Fe3+ charge
transfer. Chatham flux-grown synthetic blue sapphire
shows small Fe3+ bands, Fez +Ti4 charge transfer,
and variable intensities of Fe2++Fe3 charge transfer, a
spectrum that is also found in some blue sapphires from
Pailin, Kampuchea. Sapphires of similar chemical composition with no Fe2++Ti4+ charge transfer have been
found in Thailand and have a green color.
+
Gemological Abstracts
Summer 1988
125
DIAMONDS
Colored diamonds. S. C. Hofer, New York Diamonds, Vol.
1, No. 1, 1988, pp. 28, 30.
Mr. Hofer introduces his column "Colored Diamonds" in
the premier issue of this new trade journal. He begins by
providing several historical references to colored diamonds, touching briefly on the formation, history, and
marketing of these rare gems. He states that his intention in this column is "to educate and inform members
of the industry . . . on the mysterious and often misquoted colored diamonds."
Included in this first column is an announcement
and description of the fancy-color diamonds in the
Aurora Gem Collection and the Goldberg Collection,
which are currently on display at the American Museum
of Natural History in New York City. Two color photographs of diamonds from the two collections illustrate
the column.
Bill Videto
126
Gemological Abstracts
Summer 1988
Gemological Abstracts
GEM LOCALITIES
Lightning Ridge - die Wiege der Australischen Schwarzopale (Lightning Ridge, the cradle of Australian
black opals). E. Gubelin, Lapis, Vol. 13, No, 2,
February 1987, pp. 15-30.
The first part of this article about Lightning Ridge
covers the history and geology of the area, the origin of
the opals, and the methods of mining and processing the
rough material. Although opal was first discovered here
in 1887, production on a (comparatively] large scale
began only about 3 0 years ago. More sophisticated
mining techniques-such as the use of explosives and
pneumatic drills, bulldozers, surface mining, and processing with "agifators," in addition to "dry" and "wet
puddling1'-are quite new and have become profitable
because of an increasing demand for black opal. Dr.
Gubelin discusses the geologic and chemical conditions
of opal formation in the Lightning Ridge area and
concludes that the opals were formed during the kaolinization of feldspars in the early Tertiary period. The
mining activities are illustrated by 17 informative color
photographs and two geologic sketches.
The second part of the article gives general information on opal, including sources, varieties, and some
mineralogic and gemological data. Two electron photomicrographs show the different structures of common
and gem-quality opal. Examples of fine black opals as
well as other varieties (rough and cut) are shown in 16
color photographs.
While the second part of the article may be too
general for the reader already familiar with the material,
it is of value for newcomers. The description of opal
mining at Lightning Ridge, however, is of interest to all
for its fresh view of the activities in this mining area.
The article is written in German, but the beauty of the
photographs is international.
Rolf Tatje
Duisburg, West Germany
Summer 1988
127
128
Gemological Abstracts
JEWELRY ARTS
The gemstones i n a Maharajah's sword. R. R. Harding
and S. H. Stronge, Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 21,
NO. 1, 1988, pp. 3-7.
The known history of the Indian jeweled sword described in this article dates only to 1817, when it was
taken from the defeated cavalry of the Maharajah Holkar
Summer 1988
not only to scientists, but also to manufacturers. Diamond is the hardest substance known, chemically inert,
and transparent up to the infrared range. It conducts heat
very well and resists radiation. These properties make
for numerous applications for synthetic diamond thin
films. Cutting tools, ball bearings, and sound reproduction (acoustics] equipment have already been manufactured with this technology. Crystallume, a Palo Alto
firm, is producing windows for soft X-rays, and is hoping
to develop other ideas such as scratch-proof lenses. It has
been suggested that coatings of synthetic diamond thin
film could considerably improve the properties of plastic; reportedly, Russian scientists have already achieved
success in this area.
Because of its resistance to radiation, synthetic
diamond thin film has attracted $2.7 million in research
grants from the U.S. Defense Department. Such films
could also help cool the electronics in missiles and
aircraft more quickly. Primary research, however, is on
their use in semiconductors, that is, the development of
synthetic diamond computer chips that can run four
times faster than current chips.
The key to obtaining true synthetic diamond films
was revealed by ~ u s s i a nscientists in 1977. Hydrogen
needs to be mixed.with the methane gas which, excited
by microwave frequencies, breaks down and deposits
synthetic diamond on a substrate under a very low
pressure. Crystallume's Schultz points out that this
technology "could have the same impact as the invention and cheap manufacture of aluminum did 100 years
ago."
EF
Gemological Abstracts
Summer 1988
129
Bill Videto
TREATMENTS
Gemmology study club lab reports. G. Brown and J.
Snow, Australian Gemmologist, Vol. 16, No. 8,
1987, pp. 287-292.
This well-illustrated series of reports covers a number of
interesting items examined by the authors. One of these
is a rather unusual opal triplet: The high dome (cap)
consists of whitish translucent potch with a distinct
orbicular patterning, while the bottom dome (base) is
manufactured from colorless glass; the opal slice at the
center had not been blackened. The triplet reportedly is
a convincing imitation of white opal,
Also described is a cameo carved out of "bog oak,"
an organic gem material that consists of sen~ifossilizcd
wood recovered from peat bogs in Ireland. Key identifying features include a distinctive dark brown color, an
obvious woody texture, a generally poor surface polish,
and a splintery fracture. This cameo also exhibited
yellowish brown plant resin in association with the
woody fibers and a junction where the two independently carved sections of the piece had been glued
together with a resinous cement.
Other items in this report include: a highly translucent turquoise of alleged Egyptian origin- the authors
question whether the high diaphaneity might be due to
silica impregnation of porous turquoise; a plastic imitation of ivory that had been deliberately patterned with
"engine turning" (the intersecting brownish arcs characteristic of ivory); a strand of plastic imitation "fleshnucleated" (i.e., mantle-tissue nucleated) cultured
pearls; and a strand of "flesh-nucleated" cultured pearls
purported to have been natural.
RCK
Internal diffusion. J. 1. Koivula, Journal of Gemmology,
Vol. 20, NO. 7/8, 1987, pp. 474-477.
This article by inclusion expert John Koivula discusses
the means by which coloring agents are cannibalized by
corundum from certain types of inclusions. Koivula
130
Gemological Abstracts
supports his thesis with five photon~icrographsof synthetic and heat-treated natural sapphire that show
concentrations of intense color around inclusions, the
result of incomplete diffusion of the chron~ophoric
elements being cannibalized.
CMS
A new treatment for turquoise. G. Brown, J. Snow, and
J. Lamb, Australian Gemmologist, Vol. 16, No. 8,
1987, pp. 307-309.
This brief report covers the examination of two turquoise cabochons purchased at a gem fair in Australia.
The cabochons were opaque, of a medium blue color
with slight greenish overtones and a waxy luster. Both
exhibited black matrix on their convex surfaces, but,
surprisingly, the base of one had a network of fine
whitish to brownish veins.
A scratch test followed by hot point testing proved
that the two specimens were paraffin impregnated.
Magnification revealed two interesting features: (1)the
black matrix appeared to be painted over whitish veins
on the convex surfaces; and (2) the turquoise had a
cellular texture consisting of lighter colored rounded
"cells" surrounded by darker bluish borders. A detailed
examination of a segment of the black matrix removed
from one cabochon showed that it was formed from very
fine black particulate matter suspended in a paraffin
wax. The article includes six good color photomicrographs and a listing of the specimens' gemological
properties.
RCK
MISCELLANEOUS
Lifetime Achievement Award: James B. White. D. Federman, Modern Jeweler, Vol. 86, No. 12, December
1987, pp. 43-54.
presents their Lifetime
Each December, Modern Je~veler
Achievement Award to a n individual who has been
instrumental in the jewelry industry. The 1987 award
has been given to JamesB. White of the Jewelers' Security
Alliance.
This article follows the career of Mr. White first
with the FBI, then with the New York City district
attorney's office and various other law enforcement
concerns, to his present position with the Security
Alliance. His success is in part due to his emphasis on
preventing crimes and to the mail alert and telephone
networks he has set up as a warning system. Moreover,
when he assumed full leadership of the Alliance in 1965,
little more than a year after joining it, he began changing
the attitudes of jewelers by espousing "rational behavior
in the face of the crimes that jewelry. . . so frequently
invites." Mr. White's efforts over the past 22 years have
earned him a reputation as the best crime fighter for the
jewelry industry.
1Lc
Summer 1988
AMERICAN JEWELRY
By Penny Proddow a n d Debra Healy,
208 pp., illus., publ. by Rizzoli, N e w
York, 1987. USS75.00"
Authors Penny Proddow and Debra
Healy have created an elegant book
on American jewels and jewelers.
Specifically focused on the production of fine jewelry (primarily signed
jewels), it is richly illustrated with
David Behl's photographs of jewelry
and the jewelry renderings of notable
designers, interspersed with pictures
of famous personalities s u c h as
Greta Garbo and Shirley Temple displaying the pieces. Drawing from
personal comn~unications,magazine
articles, and company archives, the
authors have c o m ~ i l e da virtual encyclopedia of information.
In the first chapter, Proddow and
Healy introduce American jewelers
of the late 18th century, describing
their rise in a historical context.
Then, beginning with the founding
of Shreve, Crump & Low Co. of Boston in 1869, they proceed to recount
the early, years of companies such as
Frost of New Yorlz, Bailey, Banks &
Biddle of Philadelphia, Greenleaf &
Crosby of Jacksonville (Florida),
C. D. Peicoclz of Chicago, and
Gump's of San Francisco. In this
concise overview, one also glimpses
the interrelationships of various jewelers as they combine to form companies, separate, and then recombine
to create new partnerships-many of
which are still in existence today.
This first chapter ends with a paragraph announcing the introduction
of Jewelers' Circular and Horologicaf
Review, one of the first jewelry magazines, in 1874.
The following chapters focus on
a variety of topics, including specific
jewelry companies in the context of
historical events and groups of jewelers within a particular period of
time, such as the 1960s. The authors
begin with the establishment of
Tiffany & Co. and emphasize how its
success was aided by the many international world expositions that were
held during the 19th century. One
chapter, devoted to Art Nouveau
jewelry, mentions many of the new
gem materials (such as Montana sap-
Book Reviews
BOOK
REVIEWS
1
DONA M. DIRLAM
Senior Librarian
GIA, Santa Monica
INTRODUCTION TO
LAPIDARY
By Pansy Kraus, 196 pp., illus., publ.
by Chilton Book Co., Radnor, PA,
1987. USS19.95'
Readers with any gemological experience might, at first, think that this
book is too elementary, given the
very simple language and style of the
first chapter. This does not mean that
it is poorly written. Rather, the author may want to familiarize her
audience with the various gemological terms used throughout the book,
as well as make the hobby accessible
to young people, whose involven~ent
is needed to keep it alive and active.
This book imparts its information in
such a way that anyone from beginner to graduate gemologist can learn
about the various aspects of the lapidary hobby.
The first chapter starts with the
most basic of the techniques- tumbling stones. In this chapter in particular, Ms. Kraus explains the various
processes and precautions using the
simplest of language. In the following chapters, which describe such
topics as making spheres and cabochons, drilling beads, and carving,
the terminology gradually becomes
more advanced, as the skills required
become more technical. The final
chapter, on faceting, is the most
thoroughly covered subject in the
book, as well as the most readable.
The author includes many sidebars about the people important to
the lapidary arts, giving a personal
Summer 1988
131
JET
By Helen Muller, 149pp., illus., pub].
b y Butterworths, Great Britain,
1987. USS29.95'
Although I started this review with a
strong bias toward transparent or
translucent gems, I came out of it
surprised . . . and educated. Helen
Muller begins her introduction with
the following words: "Few people
know much about jet." My own
knowledge of the material was limited to the basic properties needed for
identification, and the fact that jet
came from Whitby in North Yorkshire. I thus began researching jet,
since to do a review, a reviewer must
know the subject. I soon discovered
that, with the exception of a few
scattered paragraphs in some gem
texts and journals, very little had
ever been written about it. Yet Ms.
Muller has provided a comprehensive examination of this elusive
topic.
This volume is well organized
with a detailed table of contents.
Culminating each chapter is a selection of useful references. The book
concludes with a series of appendices, including what seems to be an
exhaustive historical listing of jet
manufacturers and merchants and
an index to the volume itself. Four
132
Book Reviews
AMBER
By Helen Fraquet, 176 pp., illus.,
pub]. b y Butterworths, Great Britain, 1987. USS29.95'
Like all the books published thus far
in the Butterworths Gem Books series, this volume about amber begins
with a chapter listing the basic properties a gemologist needs to make
routine identifications. The author
then discusses amber and its various
uses. All of the major localities are
profiled in separate chapters, including a welcome chapter on Asia.
Basic gemological testing procedures -including the use of a saturated saline solution, reaction to
heat, and surface resistance to or-
Summer 1988