Wagashi
Wagashi
Wagashi
of Hospitality
In the last few years, the English term sweets has come to be used in Japanese as
a hold-all term referring to all kinds of cakes and confectionary. But it seems a
shame to lump the Japanesewagashi traditionally served with tea into the same
category. They have a special role in social ritual that makes them quite different.
This spring, I took part in a round-table on the subject of traditional Japanese
confectionary culture with the proprietors and artisans of some of Kyotos oldest
traditional wagashi shops. The colors and forms of the wagashi are inspired by
motifs celebrating the beauties of nature. The artistry and attention to detail that goes
into making them is truly remarkable. The artisans who create these edible works of
art somehow manage to impart into the wagashi the very essence of the seasons
mountains, fields, rivers, and lakes. You can almost feel the wind and light of the time
of year. The artisans have an uncanny sensitivity to nature, and live in intimate
proximity with the changing seasons.
During the round table, one wagashi maker explained that Traditional wagashi are
much more than simply a sweet snack. There are part of a culture of hospitality, with
its precise etiquette and traditions. In Kyoto, the host washes down the area in front
of the house and lights incense in the entrance porch in anticipation of a visit. The
ground mustnt be either too wet or too dry when the guest arrives. If the incense is
lit too soon, the scent will have disappeared by the time the guest arrives. But if the
smoke is still rising when the guest arrives, that is a discourtesy too. Timing is
essential. The host arranges a selection of seasonal flowers, and hangs a scroll with
some kind of relevance to the season, the expected guest, or the topic to be
discussed.