Hasbroucke2007 1
Hasbroucke2007 1
Hasbroucke2007 1
Emerson G. Hasbrouck
2007
Approved by
Advisory Committee
_____________________________ _____________________________
_______________________________
Chair
Accepted by
_____________________________
Dean, Graduate School
This thesis has been prepared in a style and format
consistent with
The Journal of Coastal Research
ii
TABLE OF CONTENTS
ABSTRACT.........................................................................................................................v
DEDICATION.................................................................................................................. vii
INTRODUCTION ...............................................................................................................1
Physical Setting....................................................................................................................4
History................................................................................................................................10
OBJECTIVES ....................................................................................................................17
METHODOLOGY ............................................................................................................18
T-Sheets .............................................................................................................................19
Aerial Photographs.............................................................................................................20
RESULTS ..........................................................................................................................28
iii
Inlet Migration Zone II ......................................................................................................38
DISCUSSION ....................................................................................................................53
CONCLUSIONS................................................................................................................73
iv
ABSTRACT
Federal Beach, a narrow 10 km-long barrier spit that connects the Fort Fisher
headland and the Cape Fear foreland, has been breached numerous times during the past
centuries. Prior to 1880 the storm breaches served as one of several conduits for the
exchange/discharge of the Cape Fear River. One long-lasting breach that opened in 1761
near the headland evolved into the second largest inlet system in the area until it was
artificially closed by the U.S. Army Corps. of Engineers in 1880. Closure was
accomplished by the construction of a 4.6 km-long dam that dramatically reduced the
tidal prism and the extent of the ebb tidal delta. Long-lasting impacts associated with
inlet closure include the chronic erosion of the headland area and frequent breaching of
the barrier and the subsequent rapid migration of small inlets. Concurrent with inlet
quantify shoreline rate-of-change values for the barrier spit, and migration rates of the
associated inlet systems. The Federal Beach barrier spit shoreline accreted an average of
6 m, at a rate of 0.1 m/yr during this period. This study identifies two shoreline change
averaging 78 m from 1945 to 2005. Over the same period, SCZ II is characterized as a
Two inlet systems, New Inlet A (NIA) and New Inlet B (NIB) were active along
the Federal Beach barrier from 1938 to 1999. The NIA system opened in the 1890’s and
by 1959 had migrated approximately 6 km to the south where the system closed due to
shoaling of the inlet throat. New Inlet B opened in 1944 and closed in 1999. During this
v
period the NIB system migrated south a total of 6 km, at a mean rate of 106 m/yr. Both
the size and stability of the New Inlet B system was determined to be strongly influenced
As both of the New Inlet systems migrate along Federal Beach they actively
reshape the barrier spit planform, resulting in the progradation of the updrift barrier
impacted the behavior of the inlet systems, consequently resulting in long-term changes
vi
DEDICATION
vii
LIST OF TABLES
Table Page
3. Summary of New Inlet A Migration Rates and Inlet Minimum Width Values.....33
4. Summary of New Inlet B Migration Rates and Inlet Minimum Width Values .....36
viii
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure Page
3. (a) Major tropical storms affecting southwestern Onslow Bay and Cape
Fear regions from 1938 to 2003. (b) Five major storms to significantly
impact the study area ...............................................................................................9
5. Image showing the pre-Rock 1866 shoreline and the post-Rock 1899
shoreline. Note the extension of “Carolina Shoal Beach” and the collapse
of the ebb-tidal delta and Lower Haulover beach strand .......................................13
ix
13. Plot of (a) shoreline rate-of-change statistics and (b) standard deviation
and maximum change values, for each transect along Federal Beach
from 1938 to 2005..................................................................................................49
14. Shoreline change for SCZ I. (a) The largest net accretion occurred
during the 1949-1954 survey period. (b) The largest net erosion
occurred during the 1958-1962 survey period .......................................................50
15. Shoreline change for SCZ II. (a) The largest net erosion occurred
during the 1954-1958 survey period. (b) The greatest net accretion
occurred during the 1958-1962 survey period .......................................................52
16. Plot of (a) migration rate over time, (b) IMW over time and
(c) IMW vs migration rate .....................................................................................56
20. Barrier planform changes as New Inlet B migrates along Federal Beach
from T6 to T11 (1945-1958). Notice positive shoreline change occurring
along T7 to 10 ........................................................................................................65
21. Barrier planform changes as New Inlet B migrates along Federal Beach
from T12 to T16 (1962-1973). Notice positive shoreline change occurring
along T12 to T15....................................................................................................67
x
INTRODUCTION
Currently, over two thirds of the world’s population lives within 150 km of the
coast. In the U.S 54% of Americans live in coastal counties. The population density of
coastal areas in the U.S. is expected to double by 2025 (SADIK, 1994). With 20,506 miles
of shoreline seriously eroding within these coastal counties, there is an ever increasing
need for local, state and federal governments to establish and implement effective coastal
management policies.
North Carolina is just one of the many states whose coastal communities are
being threatened by chronic beach erosion problems. North Carolina is experiencing one
of the highest rates of population growth in the country. During the period from 1970 to
1995, the overall population of the state increased 40 percent, from approximately 5
million to 7 million. In 1995 North Carolina had the 10th highest population of all the
states. This growth is expected to continue, and by the year 2020 the population is
expected to exceed 9 million. As with other coastal states, much of this growth is located
The majority of chronic-erosion zones along the North Carolina coastline are
associated with contemporary inlets or inlets that were closed artificially (CLEARY and
MARDEN, 1999). Currently, inlets comprise less then 1% of North Carolina’s coastline,
yet, during the past two centuries, they have influenced 65% of the barrier shorelines that
comprise the Onslow Bay Compartment (CLEARY and PILKEY, 1996). To mitigate this on
going erosion problem, North Carolina planned to spend approximately 12 million dollars
on beach nourishment for the FY 2005. Accurate prediction of shoreline retreat, land loss
rates, and the cost of management alternatives is critical to the planning of coastal zone
Physical processes, such as tides, waves and wind, are constantly reshaping the many
addition, the underlying geologic framework, offshore topography and human activity are
all reflected in the morphology of any given coastal system. Understanding the processes
determining the behavior of beaches, particularly those that have been replenished
Tidal inlets are openings in the shoreline through which water infiltrates the land,
thereby providing a connection between the ocean and bays, lagoons, or marsh and tidal
creek systems (FITZGERALD, 1996).Tidal inlets are associated with barrier systems and
are found throughout the world in a variety of different environmental settings. Tidal
inlets most commonly occur along passive continental margins (INMAN and NORDSTROM,
Tidal inlets are one of the most studied systems in the coastal environment.
Nevertheless each tidal inlet is a unique system. The diversity in morphology, hydraulic
signature, and sediment transport patterns of tidal inlets attests to the complexity of their
processes (FITZGERALD, 1996). One of the problems with formulating models (numerical
model that includes a large population of inlets, while at the same time making the model
2
questions for a particular inlet or address broad management issues (FITZGERALD, 1996).
Numerous investigations dealing with almost every aspect of tidal inlets have been
undertaken. However, little work has been done on investigating the impact of inlet
There have been extensive investigations into tidal inlet systems of the Georgia
Bight, especially in North Carolina. Most notably are those by CLEARY and PILKEY
(1996), CLEARY and FITZGERALD (2003), CLEARY and MARDEN (1999), JOHNSON et al.
RICE (2002) and WELSH (2004). Investigations of inlet closure outside the southeastern
U.S. have been primarily focused on seasonal inlet closures (e.g. RANASINGHE and
determining the mechanics and relative magnitude of the physical forces governing
closure. However, these studies have neglected to quantify the long-term shoreline
Of the many morphological features found in the coastal system, tidal inlets are of
particular importance for a number of reasons. Tidal inlets are a major influence affecting
almost all physical, biological and chemical processes active in the coastal area. Tidal
inlets serve a whole host of primary and secondary functions. In addition to serving as
entrances to harbors, tidal inlets actively flush estuaries with sea water and nutrients, act
as conduits for spawning and larval marine organisms, as well as impound a large volume
of sediment thus impacting large tracts of shoreline (FITZGERALD, 1996). In short, there
is little in the coastal environment that is not in some way influenced by a tidal inlet.
3
The stability of a given inlet is perhaps the most important factor governing
surrounding coastal infrastructure, and disrupt designated coastal waterways. From 1989-
1995, 82% of the flood insurance claims for erosion threatened buildings in North
Carolina were along tidal inlet influenced shorelines (JOHNSON et al., 1999). The
shoreline changes associated with tidal inlets are of particular importance when
variables acting to control that migration are of paramount importance when delineating
STUDY AREA
Physical Setting
Nearly continuous chains of barrier islands flank the eastern and Gulf coasts of
North America. This expanse of coastal barriers is the apex of the longest single
development of barrier islands in the world, stretching from Cape Cod, Massachusetts to
the Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico (HAYES, 1994). The island complexes found in the
southeastern states of North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia and Florida are known as
the Georgia Bight.The shoreline of the Georgia Bight, which extends from Cape Hatteras,
North Carolina to Cape Canaveral, Florida, is over 750 miles long (HAYES, 1994).
The Federal Beach barrier spit complex is located in southeastern North Carolina
along the Onslow Bay coastal compartment (Figure 1). Federal Beach is a 9.5 km long
4
Figure 1. Locator map of Federal Beach, North Carolina. Map shows the 1987
shoreline configuration. (Wave energy data from JACKSON, 2004.)
5
barrier spit connecting the Pleistocene units of the Fort Fisher sub-aerial headlands to the
unconsolidated Holocene sediments of the high-energy flank of the Cape Fear Foreland.
mesotidal barrier coast with mixed energy environments (HAYES, 1979, 1994; DAVIS and
HAYES, 1984). The Cape Fear region is located in a mixed semidiurnal tidal regime. The
mean tide range for the area is 1.15 m (National Ocean Service, 2005). The average wave
height for the region is 0.8 m with a period of about 8.0 seconds (JARRETT, 1976).
(CLEARY et al., 1996). Holocene sediment accumulation in Onslow Bay is negligible due
to low fluvial input, entrapment of sediments in extensive estuarine systems and minimal
sediment exchange between adjacent shelf embayments (CLEARY and PILKEY, 1968;
CLEARY and THAYER, 1973; BLACKWELDER et al., 1982). The shoreface of the study area
is characterized by hard bottoms of varying relief, morphology and lithology (Figure 2).
The northern portion of the study area is dominated by the Fort Fisher subaerial headland.
The coastal area here consists of a wave-cut platform incised into a series of Pleistocene
sediment units with a thin beach perched on top of the irregular geometry of the
lithified and cross-bedded coquina sandstone forms the Fort Fisher subaerial headland. A
friable humate and iron-cemented Pleistocene sandstone fronts the shoreline south of the
headland forming a 2.0 m high wave-cut cliff and terrace (CLEARY et al., 1996). The
characterized by estuarine and inlet fill sediments that are much less resistant to erosion
6
7
Figure 2. Map of regional geology. The shoreface of the study area is composed of a headland, a wave-cut
platform and unconsolidated sediments. (Data from CLEARY et al., 1996 and NC DEHNR, 1998.)
(SWAIN and CLEARY, 1992; RIGGS et al., 1995). The shape and evolution of the three
different coastal segments around Fort Fisher is clearly related to the presence and
al., 1996).
Since 1938, there have been 58 classified storms to impact the North Carolina
shore; 12 of which made landfall along the North Carolina shoreline from Bird Island to
Cape Lookout (Figure 3). Hurricane Hazel was the most destructive storm to have struck
North Carolina over the past 70 years (USACE, 1982). Hurricane Hazel, a Category 3
storm on the Saffir-Simpson scale, made landfall in 1954 near the North Carolina and
South Carolina border. During the period from July 1996 through September 1999, four
hurricanes (Bertha, Fran, Bonnie, and Floyd) ranging in scale from Category 2 to 3
storms, made landfall within the region causing substantial impacts to both beaches and
property. Historically, the impact of storms along Federal Beach has been significant.
The openings of one long-lasting inlet, in 1944; and several smaller ephemeral barrier
breaches, in 1954 and again in 1996, were due to tropical storm activity.
substantial storm surge and heavy surf (HUDGINS, 2000; BARNES, 2001). Storm activity
has been a major influence in shaping the coast of North Carolina. The energy expended
and sediment transported during the few hours of a storm may equal many years of non-
variations in wind and wave approach create local reversals in this trend. During the
spring and summer, wind and wave approach is from the south and southwest, while
8
9
Figure 3. (a) Major tropical storms affecting southwestern Onslow Bay and Cape Fear regions from 1938 to 2003.
(b) Five major storms to significantly impact the study area. (Source: NOAA)
during the winter north and northeast approaches dominate (CLEARY and PILKEY, 1996).
Despite seasonal variations, the overall dominant wave approach is from the northeast
(SWAIN, 1993).
History
The earliest reliable historic map of the area attained by this study was produced
by MOSELEY in 1733. The map shows a long, narrow beach strand connecting the Fort
Fisher headland to the Cape Fear foreland (Figure 4). In 1761, a storm of significant
magnitude breached the area know as “Lower Haulover” (modern day Federal Beach),
forming a new tidal inlet system (SWAIN, 1993). New Inlet, as the system became known,
developed into the second largest inlet system in southeastern North Carolina.
Subsequently, New Inlet’s extensive flood-tidal delta and associated sand bodies
began to shoal the proximal Cape Fear River (CFR) shipping channel (Figure 1). Initial
attempts in 1852 by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) to mitigate the shoaling
were unsuccessful. Continuous attempts to mitigate shoaling over the next thirty years,
barring the extensive use of New Inlet by blockade runners during the Civil War, proved
effectively controlled the shoaling of the CFR shipping channel. Known as “The Rocks”,
the dam stretched 4.5 km, from Federal Point along Zeke’s Island to Muddy Slough, and
By 1887 however, it became evident that the impact of The Rocks was far more
extensive than simple shoal mitigation. The construction of The Rocks cut the hydraulic
10
Figure 4. Cape Fear region, southeastern North Carolina as shown in “A New
and Correct Map of the Province of North Carolina” by EDWARD MOSELEY,
1733.
11
connection between the Cape Fear River and the New Inlet system, effectively forming
an artificial estuary known as “The Basin” (Figure 1). The construction of The Rocks
resulted in a sharp decrease in the tidal prism of the New Inlet system. The tidal prism of
the system was reduced from 58.7 × 106 m3 in 1872 to 14.2 × 106 m3 in 1887. Continued
long-term changes in the back barrier basin capacity continued to reduce the tidal prism
(SWAIN, 1993). As a result, back barrier infilling and basin sedimentation further reduced
Concurrent to tidal prism reduction and back barrier infilling, inlet migration and
barrier spit formation began reshaping Lower Haulover Beach. By 1887 New Inlet had
migrated over 2 km to the south, extending the southern extent of the newly formed
barrier spit by the same magnitude (Figure 5). Consequently, by 1895 the barrier spit
began to overlap the existing down drift shoreline (Lower Haulover). The overlapped
shoreline has remained a stable backbarrier feature and was renamed North Island
(SWAIN, 1993). Originally the newly formed barrier spit was named “Carolina Shoals
Beach”. The name was subsequently dropped and since then the area has had no formal
name (NCDNER, 1970). This study will herein refer to the barrier spit as “Federal
The construction of The Rock, the resulting migration of New Inlet and the
extension of the Federal Beach barrier in 1887 marked the beginning of a sequence of
cyclic, morphological changes that would be repeated until the close of the New Inlet
system in 1999. The cycle, herein referred to as the “New Inlet Cycle” and summarized
in Figure 6, began with the southern migration of the 19th Century New Inlet and the
concurrent elongation and seaward offset of the updrift shoreline of the Federal Beach
12
Figure 5. Image showing the pre-Rock 1866 shoreline and the post-Rock 1899
shoreline. Note the extension of “Carolina Shoal Beach” and the collapse of the ebb-
tidal delta and Lower Haulover beach strand. (United States Coast and Geodeitic
Survey chart)
13
SOUTHERN FORMATION OF
MIGRATION SECOND INLET
OF INLET
14
INLET
CLOSURE
Figure 6. New Inlet Cycle showing (a) phase one, southern extension of barrier spit, (b) phase two, formation of
second inlet system, (c) and phase three, closure of first inlet system
barrier spit. Continued southern migration of the inlet along North Island ultimately
resulted in an elongation of the inlet channel and a reduction in the hydraulic efficiency
of the system.
The second phase of the New Inlet Cycle is the opening of a second inlet. The
formation of a second inlet occurred during a storm event in 1944, where the potentially
large tidal prism caused a breach along the narrowest part of the Federal Beach barrier
near the point of spit attachment. As is typical in this system the northern, or newest, inlet
began to capture more tidal flow and effectively reduced the tidal flow of the southern, or
The third phase of the New Inlet Cycle is inlet closure. Once the dominance of the
northern inlet was established, the southern most inlet, due to a lack of tidal exchange,
began to shoal and eventually closed. HAYES (1991) identified two processes by which
inlets commonly form. In the first process, as is exemplified by the last two New Inlet
systems, storm generated scour channels result in shallow inlets prone to migration. In
the second process identified by HAYES (1991), an inlet forms through the closure of an
estuary entrance by the growth of a barrier sand spit. This is the way in which the
Carolina Shoal Beach barrier spit and associated inlet system formed after the instillation
In 1996, the USACE completed another civil works project within the study area.
The USACE constructed a 926 m-long multi-layered rubble revetment fronting the Fort
Fisher historic site. Since the construction of The Rocks and the collapse of the large 19th
century New Inlet system and associated tidal-deltas, chronic erosion has characterized
the Fort Fisher historic site. This erosion threatened the 19th century earthen works of the
15
historic fort and the surrounding infrastructure. To mitigate shoreline erosion and prevent
further loss of the historic site the USACE stabilized the shoreline via a hard engineering
structure. The construction of the rubble revetment resulted in a loss of material to the
littoral system and an increased shoreline erosion rate of approximately – 2.5 m/yr just
Since the construction of The Rocks, the Federal Beach barrier spit complex has
become a multi-inlet system, with at least three inlet cycles occurring since 1887
(SWAIN,1993). The focus of the current investigation is phase two, which opened in the
Great Atlantic Hurricane of 1944, and the most recent phase, phase three.
Previous Work
The scope of the work conducted within the study area has been extensive. As
previously discussed, the USACE have been undertaking civil engineering projects in the
area since before the turn of the 19th century. Erosion monitoring began in 1946 when a
winter storm destroyed U.S. Highway 421. Moreover, by the 1950’s, both the state of
North Carolina and the county of New Hanover began a series of emergency action,
aimed at preserving the remaining structures of the Fort Fisher historic site. Detailed
shoreline change surveys predating revetment construction and continuing today monitor
the northern most section of the study area (USACE 1967, 1975, 1982, 1994, 1997 –
examined the role of underlying geology and inlet migration on shoreline orientation.
SWAIN (1993) examined the effects of inlet closure on Zeke’s Island Estuary. Thorough
investigations of the underlying geologic framework and its influence on the adjacent
16
shoreline have been conducted by RIGGS et al. (1995), CLEARY et al. (1996) and MARCY
(1997).
Although numerous investigations have been conducted within the study area, the
scope and depth have not been sufficient enough to draw a solid connection between
backbarrier modification, and its relative influence on inlet morphology and shoreline
change.
Overall, the study site poses a variety of challenges. The variability of the major
within the study area, provide a unique opportunity to study the influence of inlet
artificial basin, the transition of an inlet system from a single, large stable inlet to small,
multiple unstable inlets; all have a distinctive and dramatic impact on shoreline stability
and barrier spit growth. Investigating the mechanisms of the shoreline change
experienced within the study site will provide valuable insight into determining the
relative influence of various environmental controls and help to dictate better local
management policy.
OBJECTIVES
This study proposed to investigate the impact of inlet migration and closure on
shoreline change within the study area. The primary goal was to quantify shoreline
changes through the collection of historical shoreline data and delineate both spatial and
17
To accomplish these goals, morphological changes in New Inlet and changes in
the nature of the backbarrier environment were quantified and then analyzed both
spatially and temporally to establish a link between backbarrier changes, inlet behavior
Although previous investigations within the study site tried to quantify shoreline
change, few had the accuracy afforded by recent technological advances of geographic
information systems (GIS) and digital shoreline mapping programs. In addition, there
have been no investigations into the resultant shoreline changes associated with the
closure of New Inlet. This investigation has attempted to establish a link between changes
in the behavior of the New Inlet system, including backbarrier modifications, and the
METHODOLOGY
This investigation was based on data derived from various remote sensing
sources. Near vertical aerial photographs, othorphotographs, and National Ocean Service
(NOS) T-sheets from various years were obtained from local and state archives. These
sources include the United States Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), North Carolina
Information Systems.
Remote sensing data coverage of the study area spans over 200 years. The first
historical map was produced in 1733 by MOSELEY (Figure 4). Historic charts from the
U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey from the years 1866 and 1889 were used to qualitatively
18
asses the historic nature of the area and establish a conceptual idea of early inlet location
and behavior. Contemporary changes, those occurring in the twentieth and twenty first
centuries, were quantified by analyzing 20 sets of aerial photographs from 1938 to 2005.
The shoreline, though strictly defined as the intersection of water and land surfaces, for
practical purposes, is a dynamic boundary, and its dependence on the temporal and
spatial scale at which it is being considered often results in the use of a range of different
shoreline indicators (BOAK and TURNER, 2005). In this study, 9 km shoreline was
identified and digitized following the methodology of such investigators as, DOLAN et al.
(1978, 1980, 1991); JACKSON (2004) and PAJAK and LEATHERMAN (2002); as the high-
water line (HWL). In this investigation the HWL was visually determined as a change in
tone left by the maximum runup from a preceding high tide (ANDERS and BYRNES, 1991;
T-Sheets
The oldest reliable source of shoreline data in the United States is the National
Ocean Service, formally known as the US Coast and Geodetic Survey, T-sheets, which
date back to the early to mid-1800s (MORTON, 1991). These maps are constructed from
plane-table surveys based on the high-water line and not the mean high water line as
reported on the maps (SHALOWITZ, 1964). NOS T-sheets were digitized using a
Calcomp™ digitizing tablet and ArcView™ GIS v.3.2a software. Once the map was
registered the HWL was digitized into an ArcView polyline shapefile and attributed
(JACKSON, 2004).
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Aerial Photographs
Aerial Photographs were selected from various archives based on scale, clarity,
presence of coastal features and temporal proximity to storm events. Photographs were
pixel distance of approximately 3 ft. per pixel, scanning resolutions were calculated for
each set, and varied from 300 to 600 dpi. Data loss during photo georectification may be
minimized if the resolution of the scanned photo and the georeferenced base layer are
similar.
After scanning the original hard copy photo to create a digital file, polynomial
(GCPs) on the scanned photo image and base layer, (ii) transformation of the GCP
coordinates on the scanned image from a generic raster set to a geographical projection
and coordinate system, and (iii) pixel resampling (HUGHES et al., 2006). In this
investigation the photographs were digitally rectified in ESRI® ArcMap™ 9.1 using the
georeferencing tool. Georeferenced photographs were saved as TIFF files. These files
were used to create a photo mosaic for each set of photographs. ArcMap™ 9.1 was then
used to digitize the visible wet/dry line (HWL), the main ebb channel, associated inlet
Standard industry methods for calculating shoreline change and rate statistics
have yet to be adopted by the government, public and private sectors. However several
calculation methods, such as the endpoint rate (EPR) and “least-squares fit” linear
20
regression rate (LRR) calculation (Table 1), have been intergraded into a computational
extension created for ArcView™ called SCARPS (Simple Change Analysis of Retreating
(2004), as the primary method of calculating shoreline position changes and rates.
All digital shoreline files were projected to North Carolina state plane projection,
NAD 1983 datum, GRS 1980 spheroid, and feet map units prior to analysis. Shoreline
change was calculated by measuring the position differences of the HWL between each
historical shoreline within the GIS. For each analysis, shoreline change transects were
cast shore-normal from a baseline and spaced at 457.2 m (1,500 ft.) intervals. Shoreline
rate-of-change models and statistics were computed using SCARPS, which include the
The EPR and LRR calculations, widely used by state and local agencies (National
Research Council, 1990), were the primary models used to estimate both long-term and
short-term shoreline change rates for the current study. Even though shoreline change is
not necessarily a linear process, especially adjacent to inlets, these models provide the
This study discusses the hydraulic nature of the New Inlet systems using the
industry standard term “tidal prism”. Tidal prism, as defined by JARRETT (1976) for all
inlets along the North Atlantic shoreline, is show by the empirical formula:
21
22
Where P equals tidal prism and A equals the cross sectional area of the inlet. The cross
sectional area is measured below mean sea level along the narrowest section of the inlet
throat, also know as the inlet minimum width (IMW) (JARRETT, 1976). This investigation
however, does not discuss the tidal prism of the New Inlet systems as defined by JARRETT
(1976). Due to the constraints of the data set, this study was unable to calculate tidal
prism values, nor was it able to acquire field measured tidal prism data.
Generally, inlet tidal prism is a function of bay size, tidal range and frictional
Massachusetts, indicate that the migration of tidal channels within the backbarrier control
the tidal prism and ultimately the stability of the inlet system Along the west coast of
Florida DAVIS AND BERNARD (2003) have shown that anthropogenic modifications of
backbarrier bays, including the construction of artificial tidal divides, reduced the tidal
prism at some inlets, resulting in instability or closure. Examples include Blind Pass and
KNIERIM (2004), and WELSH (2004) all show a strong correlation between tidal prism
minimum width of the inlet system. CLEARY and FITZGERALD (2003) have also found
that a reduction in the size of a tidal inlet system was the product of a diminished tidal
prism.
Moreover, FITZGERALD et al., (2001) noted that a decrease in the depth of an inlet
channel increased the propensity of the inlet to migrate. Therefore, this study assumed
that as the migration rate of an inlet increases, the depth of the inlet channel decreases.
23
Additionally, this study assumed that the cross-sectional area of the inlet had diminished
if an increase in the migration rate of the inlet occurred, indicating a decrease in the depth
Prior work within the study area by SWAIN (1993), where empirically derived
tidal prism values were evaluated, has shown that significant changes in inlet
solely from a reduction in tidal prism. Accordingly, this study has employed a number of
Morphological changes associated with the New Inlet system, including migration
rate, IMW and channel orientation, were evaluated using on screen measurements based
on shore normal transects spaced at 6.1 m (20 ft.) intervals. Inlet position was then
defined as the exact midpoint along the inlet minimum width. Based upon on screen
evaluations the Federal Beach backbarrier area was classified as either backbarrier bay,
backbarrier, such as variations in bay and subaerial marsh area, were evaluated using
SCARPS. Shoaling within the tidal channels was qualitatively evaluated on screen.
The on screen measurements of inlet channel length, width and bay size were
compared to produce qualitative tidal prism values. Tidal prism values herein are not
discussed in numerical terms but are qualitatively referred to as either “large” or “small”.
24
Shoreline Position Error
The advent of the personal computer and the subsequent development of high-
First, error can be introduced before rectification and analysis take place. The
the challenge of balancing many physical variables. Common distortions include radial
distortion, relief distortion, tilt and pitch of the aircraft, and scale variations caused by
changes in altitude along a flight line (ANDERS and BYRNES, 1991; CROWELL,
LEATHERMAN, and BUCKLEY, 1991; MOORE, 2000; THIELER and DANFORTH, 1994).
maximum runup from a preceding high tide (ANDERS and BYRNES, 1991; CROWELL,
LEATHERMAN, and BUCKLEY, 1991; SMITH and ZARILLO, 1990). Natural variation in the
HWL can derive from cyclic changes in physical environmental forces. An individual
HWL has no reference to a tidal datum or a fixed elevation; instead, it may represent a
moon phase and tidal cycle. All of these variables introduce site-specific error associated
25
comparing predicted points from a registered map or aerial photo against the actual points
referenced on a highly controlled base map or orthophoto. Error reduction and quality
values from randomly selected points across registered aerial photographs using the 2002
less than 9 ft was sought per photo and was easily obtained from higher quality controlled
imagery. Older imagery from the 1930s to 1960s generally contained more distortion and
produced higher RMSE values because of stretching, shrinking, and warping of the
often contain elevated RMSE values (ANDERS and BYRNES, 1991). Table 2 provides a
summary of worst-case shoreline position errors associated with various shoreline data
sources.
When examining long-term changes along large tracts of shoreline, both temporal
and spatial variations in the morphological changes can be expected. The influence of the
study area. Identifying and delineating zones along the barrier spit based on common
behavioral trends is critical to better understanding the evolution of the barrier’s shoreline
The current study identified two “Shoreline Change Zones” (SCZ) (Figure 7). A
shoreline change zone was defined as a segment of the shoreline displaying an overall
difference in magnitude of erosion or accretion from adjacent reaches due to one primary
26
27
influencing factor, such as an inlet, or combination of factors (JACKSON, 2004).
Delineation of shoreline change zones was based upon quantitative long-term erosional
and accretional trends, coupled with an analysis of the rate-of-change statistics, standard
deviation of shoreline position change and a cursory examination of the GIS aerial photo
set.
In addition to SCZs, this study identified four “Inlet Migration Zones” (IMZ)
(Figure 7). An inlet migration zone is defined as a segment of the shoreline displaying an
overall difference in magnitude of migration rate from adjacent reaches due to one
identification of the minimum width of the system was coupled with an analysis of the
inlet migration rate, as evaluated using the EPR calculation method, in order to delineate
RESULTS
This study focused on both the morphological changes of the New Inlet system,
and how these changes have impacted the planform evolution of the Federal Beach
barrier spit. This investigation examined the changes occurring during the past century,
specifically from 1938 to 2005. However, the changes occurring along the Federal Beach
barrier spit, and the morphological changes of the New Inlet system, are reported here
separately. All shoreline change and inlet migration values reported below, unless
otherwise noted, are derived from the EPR calculation method. Additionally, the term
28
FEDERAL FEDERAL
POINT POINT
Figure 7. (a) Location of Shoreline Change Zones (SCZ) and their respective transects
for Federal Beach’s shoreline configuration as of 2003. (b) Location of Inlet Migration
Zones (IMZ) and the location of New Inlet B for the years 1945 to 1998.
29
Inlet Changes
The Federal Beach barrier spit and associated inlet systems are dynamic and
the behavior and nature of the New Inlet system. The Rocks, since construction in 1887,
has been the major factor influencing the morphodynamic evolution of the area (SWAIN,
1993). By vastly changing the hydraulic nature of New Inlet, The Rocks initiated the
collapse and migration of the large and stable New Inlet system. This in turn has led to
the development of a multiple inlet system. The scope of this study, from the years 1938
to 2005, will include two such migrating inlet systems. The first inlet herein referred to as
New Inlet A, opened previous to 1938, between 1887 and 1895, and closed between 1956
and 1959. The second, herein referred to as New Inlet B, opened between 1938 and 1945
New Inlet A
Between 1887 and 1895 Federal Beach was breached near the point of spit
attachment, forming New Inlet A. By 1912 New Inlet A had migrated approximately 5
km to the south (SWAIN, 1993). The first geographically referenced inlet location used
in this study was the 1938 position of New Inlet A, approximately 6.5 km south of the
Fort Fisher Historic Site (Figure 8). This location was used as the baseline for all New
Inlet A migration measurements. The geographically referenced New Inlet A data set
used in this study spans from 1938 to 1954. Over the course of this period New Inlet A
migrated south a net distance of 384 m at an average rate of 47 m/yr, and the inlet
30
minimum width changed from 818 m (1938) to 2200 m (1954). New Inlet A minimum
New Inlet A from 1938 to 1945 migrated 213 m to the south averaging 30 m/yr.
From 1945 to 1949 New Inlet A migrated south 320 m at a much faster rate, 80 m/yr.
From 1949 to the last georectified position in 1954, New Inlet A migrated 150 m to the
north (Figure 8). The apparent reversal in the migration direction of the New Inlet A
system can be attributed to an expansion in the size of the inlet channel, 174 m (1949) to
347 m (1954), due to Hurricane Hazel, rather than a true migration of the system. This
This investigation is unable to determine the exact location and year of New Inlet
A’s closure due to the unavailability of georectified photography from 1954 to 1962.
However, based on non-rectified imagery it can be concluded that the New Inlet A
system closed between 1956 and 1959, 1 km south of its 1938 position and
New Inlet B
The Federal Beach barrier spit was breached between 1938 and 1945, forming
New Inlet B. Again, due to the lack of aerial imagery during this period the exact date of
spit breaching is not known. However, the 1945 position of New Inlet B, approximately 1
km south of the point of spit attachment, suggested that New Inlet B opened within the
previous 2 years (Figure 9). Moreover, upon examining the history of tropical and extra-
tropical storms affecting the area, only two storms from 1939 to 1944 have had the
31
32
Figure 8. Migration of New Inlet A (NIA) along the Federal Beach barrier spit from 1938 to 1954
33
potential to significantly impact Federal Beach, both of which occurred during 1944. One
storm specifically, The Great Atlantic Hurricane (9/14/1944), is suspected as the cause of
the initial barrier spit breach that resulted in the formation of New Inlet B. This
investigation will therefore assume that the initial opening of New Inlet B occurred on
September 14, 1944. However, the 1945 aerial imagery was used to establish the first
south of the Fort Fisher Historic Site, was used as the baseline for all New Inlet B
The slowest migration rates occurred from 1987 to 1990, when New Inlet B
migrated only 6 m/yr (Figure 10). The maximum annual migration rate occurred from
1945 to 1949, with New Inlet B migrating 248 m/yr (Figure 9). From the initial opening
in 1944 to the closure of the inlet in 1998, New Inlet B migrated south a total of 6 km, at
a mean rate of 106 m/yr. The average IMW value from 1945 to 1998 was 204 m.
New Inlet system resulted in a relatively large standard deviation in migration rate and
IMW, 74 and 115 respectively. The large variation about the mean of these data sets
Inspection of the New Inlet B data set suggests that the Federal Beach barrier spit
can be subdivided into zones based on inlet behavior, specifically migration rate. By
comparing the migration rates of the New Inlet B system, four “Inlet Migration Zones”
(IMZ) were delineated. Migration rates were influenced by the location of the inlet along
34
35
Figure 9. Migration of New Inlet B (NIB) along the Federal Beach barrier spit from 1945 to 1976.
36
37
Figure 10. Migration of New Inlet B (NIB) along the Federal Beach barrier spit from 1979 to 1999.
the barrier spit with zone delineation corresponding to spatial variations in the systems’
physical setting with respect to the geometry of the backbarrier basin. Inlet migration
rates and IMW values for each of the four IMZ are shown in Table 4. The northern and
southern most zones (IMZ I and IV) were identified as areas of accelerated inlet
migration. The two middle zones (IMZ II and III) were identified as areas of decreased
instability, and exhibited migration rates that were less than IMZ I and IMZ IV.
Due to the lack of aerial photographs pre-dating 1938 Inlet Migration Zone
delineation for the New Inlet A data set was not conducted by this investigation.
New Inlet B occupied IMZ I during the years 1945 to 1949 (Figure 7 and Figure
9). As previously stated, this era can be described as a period of inlet re-equilibration.
The system migrated 1049 m to the south and, it is assumed, began capturing an
increasing amount of the overall tidal exchange, increasingly becoming the dominate
inlet. Moreover, during this period the IMW increased from 131 m to 174 m, indicating
Inlet migration zone II is defined by the position of New Inlet B along the Federal
Beach barrier from the years 1949 to 1973 (Figure 7 and Figure 9). In this zone the New
Inlet system continued to migrate south. Migration rates for IMZ II ranged from a
maximum rate of 155 m/yr (1962-1973), to a minimum migration rate of 84 m/yr (1949-
1954). The average rate for this era was 113 m/yr.
38
The overall maximum IMW of the New Inlet B system, 347 m, occurred in 1954;
approximately one week after a major class 3 hurricane, Hazel, passed through the area.
Increased shoaling of the inlet throat by 1973 reduced the width of the system to a zone
wide minimum of 68m. The average inlet minimum width for IMZ II was 217 m.
Throughout the study area changes in inlet width were found to be consistent with
changes in inlet migration rates. The data from this investigation suggests a weak,
apparent inverse relationship between the two physical parameters. This relationship is
highlighted by observing the changes in the IMW and migration rate values between
1962 and 1973. As the migration rate of the inlet increases from 102 m/yr (1958- 1962)
to 155 m/yr, the IMW value decreases from 274 m (1962) to 68 m (1973). In addition,
evidence of this inverse relationship can be found by examining the IMW values and
migration rates from 1973 to 1976. The IMW of New Inlet B grows from 68 m (1973) to
335 m (1976) and migration rate decreases to an average of 57 m/yr. Moreover, the
relationship between these two inlet parameters can further be determined by comparing
the average IMW and migration rate values of IMZ II to IMZ III and IMZ IV (Table 4).
From 1973 to 1992 New Inlet B occupied IMZ III (Figure 7 and Figure 10). The
maximum migration rate for IMZ III, 87 m/yr (1990-1992), and the minimum migration
rate, 6 m/yr (1987-1990) occur in consecutive survey periods and mark the southern
boundary of IMZ III. The northern boundary of IMZ III is marked by the minimum
IWM, 68 m (1973), and by the maximum IMW 335 m (1976). There is a decrease in the
instability of New Inlet B along Zone III, as indicated by the low average migration rates
39
and large IMW. IMZ III has the highest IMW values and the lowest migration rates of all
the zones. The average IMW was 275 m and the average migration rate was 37 m/yr.
Again, this illustrates the partial link between the two inlet parameters, IMW and
migration rate. This is not a strict linear relationship however; this still suggests that the
rate of inlet movement and the resultant morphology of the Federal Beach barrier is a
function of several factors, including the position of the inlet with respect to the geometry
This zone is characterized by the closure of the New Inlet B system (Figure 7 and
Figure 10). Similarly to when New Inlet B was located along IMZ I, the New Inlet B
system in IMZ IV was a comparatively small, rapidly migrating system. The average
inlet migration rate within IMZ IV is 211 m/yr, and the average IMW is 40 m. From 1992
to 1998 New Inlet B migrated a net distance of 1.2 km. At this juncture it appears that the
hydraulic inefficiency of the channel begins to cause the inlet throat to shoal thus
initiating the closure of the system. By March 19, 1999 the system is completely closed.
Based on the non-rectified aerial imagery of New Inlet A, it appears that the New Inlet B
system closes in approximately the same location, suggesting that the same
environmental variables that triggered the closure of New Inlet A may have had a similar
40
Shoreline Change
The shoreline, though previously defined as simply the intersection of the water
and land surfaces, is a dynamic and highly variable boundary. The morphology of any
given shoreline is the result of the interactions between the many physical forcing
mechanisms and the environmental variables of the area. The many factors influencing
coastal morphology work in concert on varying spatial and temporal scales. As discussed
in CAMFIELD and MORANG (1996), at least 10 years of continuous shoreline data are
needed to interpret short-term trends and a minimum of 50 years of data are needed to
identify long-term trends. Barring the availability of such an extensive and continuous
short-term data set, this investigation seeks to identify long-term shoreline change as it is
The focus of this study’s investigation on the shoreline changes occurring along
the Federal Beach barrier varied in scope. First, total barrier spit, or “net” changes were
evaluated. Secondly, zone wide changes were examined. This study identified two
Shoreline Change Zones, SCZ I and SCZ II (Figure 7) present along the Federal Beach
barrier spit. The changes occurring within the northern zone (SCZ I) are primarily
influenced by the absence of an inlet system after 1949, while the southern zone (SCZ II)
shoreline change analysis, and from zone-wide analysis, are presented in Table 5 and
Table 6 respectively.
41
Barrier-wide Shoreline Change
The earliest georectified images obtained for this study were 1938 aerial
photographs. This data set however is incomplete, and the entirety of the study area
shoreline was not imaged. Therefore, in the following section the 1945 data set is utilized
From 1945 to 2005 the Federal Beach barrier spit shoreline accreted
approximately 6 m at a rate of 0.1 m/yr (Figure 11 and Table 5). However, along the 21
survey transects, only ten showed positive net change values for the 1945 to 2005 era
(Table 5). The average change for the ten prograding transects was 86 m, at a rate of 1.4
m/yr. The maximum amount of accretion occurred along transect 13 and 14 (T13 & T14),
with each transect prograding 147 m and 155 m respectively. The least amount of
Additionally over the course of the study period ten transects experienced net
erosion. The average erosion along all retrograding transects was 73 m, at a rate of -1.2
m/yr. The greatest amount of shoreline retreat, 137 m, occurred at T4 (Figure 11). The
shoreline along the Transect 9 cell experienced the least amount of erosion, with only 19
m of net change. Shoreline change for the 1945 to 2005 era could not be measured at
transects 17. In 1945 T17 was located in too close of a proximity to New Inlet A to
Inspection of the data pertaining to the decadal changes along Federal Beach
indicates progadation occurred more frequently then periods of erosion, with accretion
occurring during four of the six decades surveyed from 1945 to 2005 (Table 5). However,
42
43
44
45
Figure 11. (a) Regions of historical shoreline fluctuation durning the time period (b) 1945 to (c) 2005. (d) Barrier spit shoreline
position 01.23.1945 and 01.01.2005.
two of the three decades with the largest magnitude change have been periods
the 1962-1973 survey period (Figure 12). The greatest changes during this period
occurred along Transects 11-15, each averaging 132 m of accretion, at a rate of 12 m/yr.
The greatest seaward shoreline change, 200 m, occurred along Transect 13. From 1962 to
1973 the average shoreline loss along all eroding transects was 41 m. The most
significant erosion occurred along Transect 17, with the shoreline translating 90 m
landward.
Federal Beach experienced the most significant losses during the period between
1954 and 1962; with erosion occurring along thirteen of the sixteen transects (Figure 12).
Average shoreline retreat per transect was 46 m at a rate of 6 m/yr. However, erosion
rates were as high as 123 m/yr (T13). Of the three transects where seaward change
occurred, the most significant accretion, 106 m, was along T12. Average change for all
To better describe and discuss changes along Federal Beach, the shoreline was
subdivided into two separate reaches, SCZ I and SCZ II (Figure 7). Shoreline Change
accretion and erosion trends of the digitized shorelines, coupled with an analysis of the
rate-of-change statistics and the standard deviation of shoreline position change (Figure
13).
46
47
Figure 12. Federal Beach shoreline change by decade or closest interval available from data set.
Shoreline Change Zone I
Shoreline change zone I, located in the northern most portion of the study area, is
approximately 3.6 km long. The zone is bound on the north by the Fort Fisher revetment
periods defined by the photographic coverage, from 1945 to 2005, SCZ I experienced an
average net change of -5 m. From 1945 to 2005 the shoreline along each of the nine
transects within SCZ I experienced erosion (Figure 11 and Table 6). Net shoreline change
along the reach was -78 m at a rate of -1.3 m/yr. The shoreline along transect 4
underwent the most significant changes during this period with the shoreline eroding 137
There are, however, three periods in which net shoreline accretion occurred. The
largest net accretion for SCZ I occurred during the period 1949 to 1954 (Figure 14).
During this era the shoreline along each transect experienced positive change and the
occurred along the shoreline at T9. The least seaward movement, 6 m, occurred along T1.
The portion of barrier spit within SCZ I prograded during two other eras, 1998-1999 and
2002-2005. The average net shoreline change for these two periods was 4.5 m at a rate of
2.5 m/yr.
The greatest zone-wide erosion occurred from 1958 to 1962 (Figure 14). During
this period the net landward movement of the shoreline within SCZ I was -19 m, at a rate
of -5 m/yr. The most significant change occurred along T6, which experienced 40 m of
48
Figure 13. Plot of (a) shoreline rate-of-change statistics and (b) standard deviation and
maximum change values, for each transect along Federal Beach from 1938 to 2005.
49
FEDERAL FEDERAL
POINT POINT
Figure 14. Shoreline change for SCZ I. (a) The largest net accretion occurred during
the 1949-1954 survey period. (b) The largest net erosion occurred during the 1958-
1962 survey period.
50
erosion at a rate of 10 m/yr. The smallest significant change, -14 m, occurred along T7 at
Shoreline Change Zone II, located in the southern portion of the study area, is 5.5
km long (Figure 7). The reach is bounded by T9 in the north and T21 in the south. SCZ
During the period 1945 to 2005, the shoreline along eleven of the twelve transects
within SCZ II prograded (Figure 12 and Table 6). The net accretion along SCZ II for this
period was 69 m, at a rate of 1.2 m/yr. The most significant changes occurred along T13,
with the shoreline moving seaward 155 m (2.6 m/yr). The least amount of change was
observed along Transect 21, where the shoreline accreted 0.3 m/yr, totaling 17 m.
The most significant period of progradation along SCZ II occurred between 1958
and 1962 (Figure 15). Net shoreline accretion along the reach was 92 m, adding 24 m/yr.
The largest change occurred along T11, where the shoreline prograded of 340 m. In
addition, during the period 1945 to 2005, shoreline change of no less then 100 m was
However, there are several periods from 1945 to 2005 where net erosion along
SCZ II is observed. The most significant shoreline change occurred from 1954 to 1958,
when the entire SCZ II reach receded landward (Figure 15). Net shoreline change along
this portion of Federal Beach was -66 m, eroding 19 m/yr. The greatest change, -227 m,
51
ROCK BAY
ROCK BAY
Figure 15. Shoreline change for SCZ II. (a) The largest net erosion occurred during
the 1954-1958 survey period. (b) The greatest net accretion occurred during the
1958-1962 survey period.
52
was measured along T16. The least amount of erosion during this period was at T12,
DISCUSSION
Historic (pre 1945) changes to the hydrographic regime of the Old New Inlet
system were considerable. Closure of the tidal connection between the Cape Fear River
and New Inlet drastically decreased the tidal prism of the Old New Inlet system and
caused appreciable morphological changes throughout the study area. From 1872 to 1985
the inlet system underwent a 5.25 × 107 m3 reduction in tidal prism. Moreover, the
reduction in the tidal prism of the Old New Inlet resulted in the formation of the Federal
Beach barrier spit and the associated New Inlet A and B systems (SWAIN, 1993).
In addition, The Rocks have significantly influenced the evolution of the estuary
backing the Federal Beach barrier spit. Conservative estimates by SWAIN (1993) suggest
that 57% of ebb-tidal delta material was transported and redeposited in the backbarrier
basin due to the artificial closure of Old New Inlet. Backbarrier volume gains from 1887
to 1985 were in the order of 10.93 × 106 m3 at an average rate of 11.2 × 104 m3/yr
(SWAIN, 1993). Due to several early (pre 1880) failed attempts to mitigating the shoaling
of the CFR by Old New Inlet’s flood-tidal delta sediments, the estuary of the Federal
Beach barrier was partially segmented into two tidal basins, “The Basin” and “Rock Bay”
(Figure 1). Natural and artificial boundaries between these estuarine basins have
decreased the hydraulic connectivity between the two compartments and have resulted in
changes (post 1945) to the physical parameters, IMW and migratory habit, of the New
53
Inlet systems, and the subsequent planform changes occurring along the Federal Beach
barrier spit were ultimately a result of the position of the New Inlet system with respect to
Although two inlet systems were present, only New Inlet B opened and closed
during the study period 1938 to 2005. Thus, New Inlet B will be the system discussed
herein. The migration of the New Inlet B system along the Federal Beach spit has
processes and environmental changes influencing the migration of the New Inlet system
In addition to wave and tidal processes, there are many other external controls on
tidal inlets including sediment supply, backbarrier basin geometry and sedimentation
history (FITZGERALD, 1996). Specifically, the variability of the estuarine tidal basins and
the hydraulic parameters found throughout the backbarrier environment are reflected in
During the period from 1944 to 1999 the IMW and migratory habit of New Inlet
B has been highly variable. There have been periods of rapid migration, 247 m/yr (1945-
variations in migration rate, have been changes in the inlet’s size, ranging from 335 m
wide (1976) to 30 m wide (1998). When these two inlet parameters, IMW and migration
rate, are plotted over time there seems to be an inverse relationship between the two
(Figure 16). For example, between the years 1976 and 1992 the general trend of the
54
system is a high IMW value and a low migration rate. Conversely, between 1992 and
1998 the trend of the system is a low IMW value and an increased migration rate.
However, when the two parameters are plotted against each other and correlated,
the degree of association is low, with an r value of only .354 (Figure 16). The weak
association between the two inlet parameters may be the result of several different
factors. First, due to the limited availability of aerial photography in the area, only 17
data points were measured over a sixty year period. An increase in the number of points
within the data set may result in a more representative sample and a stronger association
between the two variables. Moreover, there is not a concurrent relationship between the
two parameters. A response lag exists between a change in the size of the system, and a
change in the behavior of the system. For example, there is a period of adjustment within
the system between a decrease in the size of the inlet system and an increase in the
migration rate. It is assumed that with a more robust data set the association between the
two inlet parameters would be more readily observed and appear stronger. In addition,
numerous studies conducted within southeastern North Carolina, including SWAIN (1993)
and Cleary and FITZGERALD (2003), have found that changes in the size of an inlet
of the New Inlet system are found to coincide with changes in the tidal channel
configuration and the area of the backbarrier bays. In 1945 New Inlet B was located
along the northern portion of the barrier spit approximately 2.5 km south of the Fort
Fisher Historic Site (Figure 8 & Figure 17). In this location New Inlet B had the strongest
tidal connection to The Basin, a backbarrier bay approximately 17 km2 in size. However,
55
56
Figure 16. Plot of (a) migration rate over time (b) IMW over time and (c) IMW vs migration rate.
the hydraulic connection to the backbarrier during this period was reticulated and
segmented by numerous subaerial marsh islands. In addition, within The Basin, moderate
shoaling of the feeder channels was assumed to be further retarding the overall tidal
prism of the New Inlet B system. Moreover, during this period New Inlet A was still open
and continued to have a stronger hydraulic connection to Rock Bay; a significantly larger
bay then The Basin, with an area of 35.5 km. Both of these systems in 1945 are relatively
By 1962 the New Inlet B system was located 2.2 km further to the south along
Federal Beach, having migrated at an average rate of 140 m/yr (Figure 17). During this
17 year period the minimum width of New Inlet B increased from 131 m (1945) to 274
m, suggesting an overall increase in the tidal exchange of the system. However, converse
to an increase in the size of the inlet system during this period, is a 2 km2 reduction in the
overall area of The Basin bay to 15 km2 and a fifty percent increase in the area of
subaerial tidal marsh in the backbarrier. The increase in the tidal exchange of the New
Inlet B system is likely due to the closure of the New Inlet A system sometime between
1956 and 1959. Once New Inlet A closed, the remaining inlet system, New Inlet B, was
the only conduit for tidal exchange between the two backbarrier bays and the open ocean.
In multi-inlet systems DAVIS and BERNARD (2003) have found that the closure of one
inlet resulted in an increase in the tidal prism of the remaining open inlets in the system.
An increase in the size and stability of the system, despite the decrease of the bay area
and the increase of subaerial marsh growth in both basins; indicates that the combined
effluence of The Basin and Rock Bay increased the hydraulic flow through the inlet.
57
58
Figure 17. Representative aerial photographs showing the migration and backbarrier configuration of the New
Inlet B system from 1945 to 1973.
In addition to backbarrier bay size, the hydraulic efficiency of the main feeder
influencing the overall nature and behavior of the inlet system. Elongation of the inlet
channel increases frictional resistance of tidal flow thereby reducing tidal range
(FITZGERALD et al., 2001). This influence is readily observed during the period 1962 to
1976. As the New Inlet system continued to migrate south along the Federal Beach
barrier spit, direct tidal flow to both of the bays in the backbarrier is blocked by North
Island (Figures 17 & 18). To maintain a hydraulic connection between the backbarrier
and the open ocean, as the inlet continued to migrate along North Island, the main inlet
channel became elongated and sinuous. By skirting the backbarrier island the elongated
inlet channel is inefficient and tidal exchange through the inlet is restricted by the
increased friction along the channel. In 1962 the inlet channel is approximately 1148 m
long and the IMW is 274 m. By 1973 the channel length has increased three fold to 3458
m and the IMW has decreased to 68 m (Figure 17). Moreover, the decreased tidal flow
through the inlet resulted in an increase in sedimentation within the inlet and backbarrier
channels, further reducing the hydraulic efficiency of the system. The marsh development
in Rock Bay between 1962 and 1973 increased by approximately 8 km2. The growth of
marsh in the backbarrier in concert with the increase in channel shoaling is further
Further highlighting the relationship between inlet dynamics and the backbarrier
environment are the morphological changes that occurred between 1973 and 1976. New
Inlet B dramatically increased in width from 68 m to 335 m. However during this same
59
60
Figure 18. Representative aerial photographs showing the migration and backbarrier configuration of the New
Inlet B system from 1973 to 1992.
period the inlet channel migrated only 146 m (Figure 18). With the inlet channel in
approximately the same location and the inlet width increasing five fold, one might
suggest that inlet location has little influence on the overall morphology of the system.
However, further examination of the data set implies the contrary. The position of the
1973 and 1976 inlet systems are just beyond the southern most extent of North Island,
with an unobstructed connection to Rock Bay. Examination of the aerial photographs and
future trends of the inlet system from 1973 to 1992 indicates a long period of decreased
migration rates with New Inlet B migrating only 670 m in 20 years while maintaining a
minimum width of no less than 200 m. The data suggest that the morphological changes
taking place between 1973 and 1976 are a rapid response to the increased tidal flow
through the inlet caused by a more efficient channel alignment with respect to the
configuration of the backbarrier. Moreover, from 1973 to 1976, the aerial imagery
indicates an increase in the area of Rock Bay, growing from 27 km2 to 33 km2, and a
decrease in channel shoaling; indicating resurgence in the tidal prism of the system and
an overall increase in size of the inlet system. It is clear that once an efficient hydraulic
connection between the backbarrier and Onslow Bay is established, the size and stability
The New Inlet B system maintained a strong hydraulic connection and showed
evidence of a relatively large tidal prism until 1992, when inlet migration, caused by the
dominant southerly longshore current, again began to result in channel elongation (Figure
19). The system continued to have a strong tidal draw in 1992 with an IMW of 274 m,
and a stable backbarrier area of 32 km2. However, by September 1996 New Inlet B began
to show signs of closure. Migrating 800 m in four years, in 1996 New Inlet B is again
61
backed by a large area of marsh (Figure 19). Similarly to when the inlet was backed by
North Island, the main feeder channel became elongated and sinuous. The channel length
grew by 1828 m as the associated increase in frictional drag continued to reduce the
efficiency of the system. A decreased tidal flow through the inlet is evident in the drastic
decrease of the IWM to 50 m. By March of 1998 the inlet migrated an additional 372 m
and the channel length increased to 2438 m. Shoaling within the inlet throat significantly
restricted the tidal flow, further reducing the IMW to only 30 m. At this juncture the
system is in the final stages of closure. In March of the following year (1999) the system
had completely collapsed and the main inlet channel had shoaled closed, with no tidal
Both New Inlet A and B closed within a couple hundred meters of each other.
However, unlike when New Inlet A closed, there is no other system open at this time to
recapture the tidal exchange of the closed system, and absolutely no tidal exchange
occurring between the backbarrier bays and the ocean. Obviously there are numerous
physical factors acting in concert to control the evolution of any given tidal inlet system.
The relatively close proximity in which both of the New Inlet systems close is a strong
indication of the impact that backbarrier has on the morphodynamic evolution of their
The Federal Beach barrier spit is one of the few barrier systems in southeastern
North Carolina whose planform has translated seaward. The uniqueness of this area is
62
63
Figure 19. Representative aerial photographs showing the migration and closure of the New Inlet B system
from 1996 to 1999.
attributed to the civil works projects undertaken within the vicinity of the Federal Beach
barrier complex.
The shoreline changes along Federal Beach are largely the result of the migration
of the New Inlet B system along the barrier spit. The convex alignment of the pre-1945
shoreline has been reworked into a more linear feature by one of two mechanisms. First,
the seaward movement of the Federal Beach barrier is the result of the realignment of the
updrift shoreline associated with the migration of the New Inlet system (Figure 6).
Secondly, shoreline erosion along the spit is the long-term result of the collapse of the
Old New Inlet ebb-tidal delta and an overall deficit of near shore littoral material (Figure
5) (SWAIN, 1993).
This study has identified two Shoreline Change Zones. Over the period of this
investigation, from 1945 to 2005, SCZ I is characterized by net erosion, while SCZ II is
characterized by net accretion. On the whole, EPR calculations are useful for identifying
long-term trends and evaluating low frequency changes. However, in this investigation
the EPR values do not fully illustrate the impact of inlet migration on the study area
shoreline. The scope and magnitude of influence the New Inlet B system has on the
Federal Beach barrier spit is only fully realized when shoreline change values are
The relationship between shoreline position and inlet migration is evident when
examining the changes that occurred along the Federal Beach shoreline south of the 1945
location of New Inlet B. In 1945 New Inlet B was located immediately north of T7
(Figure 20). The southern migration of New Inlet along Federal Beach resulted in the
seaward displacement of the updrift barrier planform. From 1945 to 1958 New Inlet B
64
65
Figure 20. Barrier planform changes as New Inlet B migrates along Federal Beach from T6 to T11 (1945-1958). Notice
positive shoreline change occurring along T7 to T10.
migrated 1.9 km south. Progradation of the shoreline occurred along three of the four
transects (T7-T10) which New Inlet B migrated through (Figure 20). During this period,
change experienced along these transects may appear to be small. However, when
examining the average shoreline change, -170 m, for all of the transects located downdrift
of the 1958 New Inlet B position, we see that the aforementioned updrift transects
strongly depart from the significant erosional trend that characterizes the downdrift
shoreline.
From 1962 to 1973 New Inlet B continued to migrate south along the Federal
Beach barrier spit, relocating from T11 to just south of T15 (Figure 21). The average
shoreline change for these transects was 131 m. The largest shoreline change, 200 m,
occurred at T13, and transects 11, 12 and 15 all experienced approximately 100 m of
accretion. Again, during this period the influence of the New Inlet B system is evident
when the average updrift shoreline accretion is compared to the average shoreline erosion
highlighted when one examines the overall shoreline change that occurred from 1945 to
1973 (Figure 22). During this period New Inlet B migrated 4.2 km from T7 to T15. The
Since the closure of New Inlet B in 1998 the entire Federal Beach shoreline, with
the exception of the cell between T20 and T21, experienced erosion. The retrograding
barrier spit has undergone an average of -7 m of change from 1998 to 2005. The closure
66
67
Figure 21. Barrier planform changes as New Inlet B migrates along Federal Beach from T12 to T16 (1962-1973). Notice
positive shoreline change occurring along T12 to T15.
of the New Inlet B system has removed from the Federal Beach barrier spit complex the
Regional Context
The unique nature of Federal Beach and the associated New Inlet systems is
readily apparent when the behavior of the barrier spit complex is compared to the
changes occurring along regional barrier systems. The Federal Beach barrier spit is of
significant interest due to the continued impact of the anthropogenic activities in the area
Net shoreline change along Federal Beach for the period between 1945 and 2005
was 6 m, averaging 0.1 m of accretion per year. Shoreline change of this magnitude may
not at first appear to be significant; however Federal Beach is the only barrier to
experience net shoreline gains over this period within southeastern North Carolina.
Surveys by the North Carolina Division of Coastal Management indicate that the three
major barrier systems directly north of Federal Beach, Kure/Carolina Beach, Masonboro
Island, and Wrightsville Beach, are all retrograding. The ocean front shoreline in these
areas is eroding at an average rate of 1 to 3 m/yr (NCDCM, 2003). Even with artificial
beach nourishment projects augmenting the natural erosion taking place the shorelines in
The migratory habit of New Inlet is also distinct when compared to other inlets
found along Onslow Bay. The migration rate of New Inlet B during the period from 1945
to 1999 ranged from 6 to 247 m/yr, averaging 115 m/yr. The migration rate of Mason
Inlet, another historically unstable inlet in the region, varied from 0 to 90 m/yr, with an
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69
Figure 22. Barrier planform changes as New Inlet B migrates along Federal Beach from T7 to T16 (1945-1973). Notice
positive shoreline change occurring along T8 to T15.
average rate of 50 m/yr (CLEARY and FITZGERALD, 2003). In addition Mason Inlet, from
1938 to 1996, migrated 2.1 km, whereas New Inlet migrated approximately 6 km
different than that of Mason Inlet. The migration of New Inlet along the Federal Beach
barrier has resulted in the accretion of the updrift shoreline by as much as 200 m. In
addition, the migration of New Inlet has resulted in the seaward translation of the barrier
planform and significant realignment of the entire 7 km barrier spit. By contrast, the
influence of Mason inlet on the surrounding shoreline has been significantly less. During
the period from 1974 to 1996 the updrift shoreline has eroded and average of 17.5 m.
Also, the migration of Mason Inlet has influenced the shape of the shoulders, and
Future Changes
Future shoreline change predictions based on the EPR and LRR calculations of
the shoreline change along Federal Beach from 1945 to 2005 suggest that the overall
barrier spit shoreline will prograde an average of 2.5 m over the next twenty five years.
Similarly to the previous sixty years, the shoreline of Federal Beach can be divided into
two reaches based on the forecasted change trends. Shoreline change zone I will continue
70
This, however, is a very unlikely scenario for a number of reasons. First, the
forecasted shoreline change along Federal Beach is based on two statistical computations,
the EPR and LRR rates of change. The majority of the data, 54 out of 60 years, used in
these calculations was derived from shoreline change data collected while New Inlet A
and B were open. The inlet systems of the Federal Beach barrier spit complex are
mechanisms for shoreline realignment and actively translated the barrier spit planform in
the seaward direction. Since the closure of the last active inlet system in 1998 Federal
Beach has been a retrograding barrier. The potential for barrier spit breaching and inlet
formation in the immediate future is unlikely. The area most prone to breaching and
where past inlet systems have formed, directly south of the spit attachment, has
Projected shoreline change values derived from EPR and LRR calculations for the
shoreline change post inlet closure, from 1999 to 2005, indicate that the barrier spit
shoreline will retreat an average of -30 m over the next twenty five years. During this
period both shoreline change zones are forecasted to erode significantly. However this
projected shoreline change is also unreliable due to the limited range of the 1999-2005
data set.
Furthermore, both of the projected shoreline changes based on EPR and LRR
calculations do not factor in a change in sea level. The National Academy of Science
projects that the global sea level will rise 5 cm to 12 cm rise over the next century. This is
71
on Climate Change (2007) both speculate that sea level could rise by as much as a meter
along the eastern coast of the U.S. by 2100. Projections by TITUS (1991), suggest that a
meter rise in sea level over the next century could translate to 100 m to 200 m of
Even with a conservative estimated change, the future impacts of sea level rise on
the study area will be quite significant. A rise in sea level of only a couple of centimeters
would threaten the structural integrity of The Rocks and drown backbarrier marsh
growth, drastically increasing the size of the bay backing the Federal Beach barrier spit.
Collapse of The Rocks would have disastrous results. First, the increase in backbarrier
bay volume would undoubtedly result in a breach in the Federal Beach barrier during a
major storm event and create a new inlet system. Resumed sedimentation of the Cape
Fear River shipping channel would be the combined result of the new inlet system and
the destruction of The Rocks. Again, coastal engineering structures would need to be
constructed to mitigate the shoaling, at a sizeable cost to the state and county. The effects
beach complexes and substantial portions of the offshore and backbarrier. It is uncertain
how much influence those areas will have in the future as they continue to endure
changes induced by man and nature. Unfortunately such changes often appear subtle in
the short-term and their capacity to promote major long-term shoreline changes are often
underestimated.
72
Regardless of the reliability of the forecasted shoreline changes, it is clear that
natural process will continue to erode the Federal Beach barrier spit. Sea level rise will
also significantly contribute to the morphological evolution of the barrier planform and
CONCLUSIONS
The Federal Beach barrier spit, from 1945 to 2005, experienced positive net
shoreline change. The observed accretion is the result of the reconfiguration and
realignment of the barrier spit planform due to the migration of the New Inlet B system.
The migration of the New Inlet B system is in turn partially controlled by the
From 1945 to 1999 the New Inlet B system migrated along the Federal Beach
barrier a total of 6 km. Both the size and the migration rate of the system varied greatly
over this period. Examination of the data suggested that there was a weak relationship
between the changes in the migration rate of the system and changes in the IMW of the
system. This relationship suggests that the magnitude of the overall hydraulic discharge
of the system controls the relative stability the system. Moreover, variations in the
hydraulic nature of the New Inlet B system can be related to the geographic location of
the inlet along the Federal Beach barrier spit. Further examination of the Federal Beach
barrier spit complex, highlights the influence of backbarrier basin hypsometry on the
morphodynamic evolution of the New Inlet system and ultimately the configuration of
73
Shoreline change along the barrier is not uniform. However, there are two general
trends in the EPR calculated data for the period 1945 to 2005. Statistical analysis of the
data indicates a zone of accretion and a zone of erosion. However, further examination of
the shoreline change data for various eras within each zone revealed a great amount of
deviation in the observed changes. When comparing the shoreline change trends of
Federal Beach to the variations in the location of New Inlet B, it became evident that
accretion of the shoreline typically occurs on the updrift side of the New Inlet B system.
When shoreline change data was coupled with inlet location the pattern of updrift
realignment is obvious. The migration of the New Inlet B system along the Federal Beach
barrier spit has caused the realignment of the barrier planform, and has resulted in the
However, since the closure of the New Inlet B system in 1999 the Federal Beach
barrier spit has undergone consistent erosion. Future changes along Federal Beach will
depend significantly upon the reopening of another tidal inlet system and the subsequent
The morphodynamic evolution of the Federal Beach barrier spit is the result of
complex interactions between man and nature. Subtle changes in the physical
mechanisms and environmental variables of the system will continue to have drastic
74
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