Bintan Titisari

This paper discusses initial findings from an ongoing research project that designing a tool to improve the quality and variety of stitch-resist dyed motifs in Indonesia. Stitch-resist dyeing technique has been used to produce Indonesian traditional cloths, such as Jumputan cloth, Tritik cloth, Pelangi cloth and Sasirangan cloth. In the past 30 years, the use of this technique has been transformed from producing an individual artwork to mass craft production. Although the transformation provides economic benefits for the craft makers, an issue had been raised about the decreasing motif quality and the increasing number of defect patterns. Designing a stopper tool using the rapid prototyping method with biodegradable materials can be one of the alternatives to improve the quality and variety of motifs. The tool would increase the resist area which has been done manually by knotting the sewing thread after it is pulled. The resist area prevents the dye liquid from entering the area which eventually forms a pattern at the end of this process. The method used in this study used an experimentation approach with rapid prototyping method using Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) based 3D printer. The biodegradable material focuses on the use of Polylactic Acid (PLA), made from corn with a low environmental impact. At this stage, the research is still an ongoing process and the validating stage had not been conducted, although the final design of the prototyping tool had been done. The prototype is expected to solve the production issue of the stitch-resist dyeing technique by producing more precise and consistent pressure compared to manual knots without changing the existent culture among Indonesian craft makers. The further works are to analyze the effect of using the tool on the stitch-resist dyeing process and how it will affect the resultant motifs

This paper presents initial findings from an ongoing research project that explores possibilities for design and technology to contribute in revitalising traditional Indonesian stitch resist dyeing craft practices. The custom of Indonesian textile making has been mostly based on culture and tradition. In recent decades, the Indonesian traditional textile craft practices have transformed into producing commodity products and have shaped new culture of traditional craft practices. The study was conducted in three locations in Indonesia with an ethnographic approach, then the findings were analysed in accordance with established revitalisation strategies taxonomies and appropriate technology frameworks. A simple and individual tool with low cost multipurpose technology is recommended to improve the pattern quality and consistency as the main focus on revitalising the Indonesian stitch resist dyeing craft practice. This will preserve the existing working culture and minimise the internal risk factors whilst also being more sustainable in the long term.

The textile-making custom in Indonesia has produced a myriad of outstanding cloths. One of the traditional Indonesian techniques is stitch-resist dyeing which has been practised in different regions. The commercialisation of craft goods, through the effects of globalisation, has transformed how Indonesian craft makers practice the stitch-resist dyeing technique over the past decades. The craft makers also face the challenge of producing high uniformity of cloths in significant numbers, in the aftermath of the Indonesian government policy of encouraging the use of traditional textiles as corporate wear. This study aims to analyse the commercialisation effects on the stitch-resist dyeing practice in order to formulate appropriate revitalisation strategies for sustaining the tradition. This mixed-method research was carried out by collecting primary data from a survey in three of the textile-making locations (Palembang, Banjarmasin, and Yogyakarta) and laboratory experimentation, along...

Resist stitch-dyeing, also known locally as tritik (lit. dots), is resist dye
textile weaving technique. Tritik is a method to embellish white cloth by tacking, which is then dyed and removed. The motif is formed after the thread is removed. Tritik methods and techniques are less popular compared to batik or dyed ikat. It is, however, used in making sasirangan cloth, traditional cloth from South Kalimantan, Indonesia. The stitching has always been done traditionally due to the lack of clear convention on stitching as a resist-media. Thus, the development of motif designs is not in full capacity. Taking into consideration the above, this study is carried out to create new geometric patterns using tritik techniques. Qualitative experiment methods are used to obtain ideal stitching parameters, which could later be applied in creating geometric patterns. The use of geometric patterns creates more organized motifs but still showing blurry impression, a distinctive feature of tritik. The combination of gradual colouring and evenly-spaced tacking creates optical illusions on motifs (depth, direction, and motion). The motifs may be applied to fashion products by accentuating optical illusions to create silhouettes on women’s
clothing.