Fashion design

The article shows results in computer reconstruction of women's medieval cos-tume. The authors analyzed design features and patterns of historical garments. There-after, the authors developed the database of patterns and pattern drawing algorithm to enable automatic reconstruction and enhance the precision of patterns. In conclusion, the reconstruction of costume from the medieval painting was done, and high adequacy between the historical prototype and the 3D model has been proved.

PLEASE NOTE THIS PROJECT HAS BEEN SUCCESSFULLY PUBLISHED WITH BLOOMSBURY. FURTHER INFORMATION:

https://www.bloomsbury.com/us/fashioning-horror-9781350036185/

This is a call for proposals for chapters to comprise a potential new publication, which has had strong interest from Bloomsbury. Editors of this volume are Dr. Julia Petrov, Alberta College of Art and Design, Canada and me, Dr. Gudrun D. Whitehead, University of Iceland.

Introduction: In 2012, 14.33 million tons of textile waste was generated in the United States, which represented 5.7% of total municipal solid waste. Of these textile waste, 15.7% was recovered and 12.08 million tons were discarded. The apparel giant Nike (Nike Considered Design, 2010) defines waste as any product or material purchased anywhere in the supply chain that does not ultimately end up in the consumer's closet. This definition includes non-product waste (such as packaging), manufacturing waste (such as scrap material in contract factories) and product waste such as samples. The purpose of this project was to focus on alternatives to waste generated in apparel sampling. Nike # of " salesman samples 2017, to integrate sound information about materials into an interactive development tool to educate and inform developers about their material selection decisions. By creating efficiencies in the product development phase of the apparel product life-cycle a significant amount of solid waste would be eliminated as well as a significant decrease in the products carbon footprint. Over 16,000 materials are used in apparel and footwear products each year. A pair of shoes alone can use more than 30 materials (Nike Considered Design, 2010). Sustainable Apparel Coalition has developed material sustainability index (MSI) that can help companies choose the best fabrications of textiles. We sought to mesh the possibilities of virtual prototyping with MSI data. There were 5 objectives for this project (a) operational investigations (virtual prototyping and MSI data); (b) develop tool that meshes 3D CAD with MSI data; (c) generate virtual apparel using tool; (d) develop physical prototypes; (e) evaluate the environmental and economic impacts of our products (g) develop educational tools. Waste Reduction in Product Development Phase. We hypothesized that waste reduction in apparel production can be achieved through increased efficiency in the product development phase by the utilization of 3D technology, the benefit of using 3D technology is that problems can be solved prior to generating physical waste. Virtual Prototyping enables designers to quickly visualize how a material will ultimately appear on a product. If it's not the desired look, the developer can try different materials until the perfect match is found. The virtual/visual data helps in transcending the technical aspects of fabric composition and improve tactility. Virtual prototyping saves time and money and allows the designer to explore and experience hundreds of options before making a final choice " (Bux, 2014). The Materials Sustainability Index (MSI) assesses material impacts in the areas energy, chemistry, water and waste. The current process of fabric selection in apparel product development does not take into consideration the environmental impacts of chosen materials. With a lack of access to information regarding material sustainability, developers and other decision makers can not make informed, sustainable decisions (Nike, 2013). By embedding material sustainability data into the 3D prototyping system serving we can educate product creation teams to use environmentally better materials. We hypothesize that by embedding MSI data into an interactive virtual product development tool, a platform is created to both educate and inform more sustainable choices. Process: A team of researchers investigated the potential of virtual prototyping by customizing a virtual fabric library based on measurements of textile mechanical property data from two knit (list fabrics) and two woven constructed fabrics. Researchers referred to MSI data during fabric selection, developing 3D virtual textile structures, applying texture mapping to virtual garments using Adobe photoshop software, embedding into the material section Optitex (CAD) software. Concurrent with virtual garment construction, researchers constructed physical garment samples out of selected textile materials, utilizing both knit and woven substrates. Researchers analyzed the virtual apparel prototypes through additional tests, measuring potential waste reductions of virtual apparel prototype production in contrast to physical apparel prototype production. Based on findings, students developed recommendations in optimizing apparel product development via virtual prototyping methods. Quantitative Evaluation. The custom fabric library is based on textile material characteristics such as weight, thickness, stiffness/softness and elongation. ASTM standard methods were used in measuring these characteristics. The weight of fabrics (g/ m2) will be measured using a scale in accordance with ASTM D3776 method (Mass per unit area (weight) of fabric). The thickness of the fabrics will be measured using a portable thickness gauge in accordance with ASTM D1777 (Thickness of textile materials). The stiffness/softness data will be measured using a Handle-a-meter in accordance with ASTM D6828 (Stiffness of fabric by blade/slot procedure) standard. Textile elongation data will be measured using a tensile tester in accordance with ASTM D5034 (Breaking strength and elongation of textile fabrics) standard. Qualitative Evaluation. Upon IRB approval, researchers developed and implemented an industry expert panel survey. This survey will request feedback of a physical apparel product prototype compared to a virtual apparel product. Results: Outputs of this project include an initial prototype of a hybrid 3D/MSI System. The initial prototype was used as a proof of concept for Phase 2 funding that would serve to develop an interactive product development " app ". Students developed a report on the virtual prototyping research and recommendations on product development solutions with the use of 3D/MSI hybrid models to minimize product waste; as well as a textile mechanical property report and virtual apparel prototypes produced by Optitex (CAD) software; physical apparel product prototypes. Educational tools will also be developed at the department, university, community and national levels. An article is forthcoming. (Pictures here of virtual and physical garment) Acknowledgement This project was supported by a grant from EPA P3 Student Design Competition Phase 1. References

Hallel. Carmel. Bezalel

The Exhibitions:
Halel. Carmel Winery
'Judaica Now!':
Goblets and Kiddush Cups
of the Bezalel School

These two exhibitions: "Halel. Carmel Winery" and
"'Judaica Now!': Goblets and Kiddush Cups of the Bezalel
School" focus on two pioneering phenomenon. Both of them,
each one in its own specific field, established a material
and cultural infrastructure for the renewal of the Jewish
settlement in Eretz Israel. The two integrated exhibitions
presented here show the primary aspects where these two
enterprises overlap. The principal point here is the fact that
their produce, wine in Rishon Le‑Zion and art in Bezalel,
symbolized the regenerated Jewish settlement. Moreover,
most of their products were purchased by Jews in the
Diaspora as an emotional gesture of love for Eretz Israel
together with a contribution for the realization of the idea
for its settlement.
The "Halel. Carmel Winery" exhibition tells the story of
the winery from its historical perspective. The winery
symbolized the realization of the dream of settling
Eretz Israel. Thus, it became a source of pride and a center
of attraction for the leaders of the people and the world
who pinned their hopes on it and visited the winery. The
historical exhibition aims to show how innovative the
Rishon Le-Zion winery was during its early years as it was
recognized as the prominent modern agricultural-industrial
plant in the Middle Eastern region. The winery played a key
role in the economic life of Rishon Le-Zion and the Jewish
settlements in the surrounding area. The exhibition displays
its development, achievements, challenges, transitions,
connections with the Diaspora and how it influenced
Rishon Le-Zion and the Yishuv in Eretz Israel. The exhibition
focuses mainly on the first few decades of the winery's
existence which were also the most momentous years in
its history, during which a modern industrial model was
developed leading to a breakthrough in the country.
The Bezalel exhibition 'Judaica Now'!: Goblets and
Kiddush Cups of the Bezalel School"is displayed from the
contemporary artistic standpoint. In this exhibition also
some 48 exhibits of contemporary wine and Kiddush cups,
handmade by artists and designers belonging to the Bezalel
School, are displayed. The philosophy and artistic language
of the School's members, men and women, were apparent as
expressed in the holy vessels and articles. The participants in
this group show had all attended Bezalel either as students
or teachers, some served as department heads. A large
group among these artists later became the elite of leading
Judaica artists, whose creations now enrich the collections of
important museums in Israel and throughout the world.

Curators:
"Hallel. Carmel Winery": Yona Shapira
"'Judaica Now!': Wine goblets and Kiddush cups of the
Bezalel School": Dr. Shirat‑Miriam Shamir, Ido Noy


הלַלֵּ. כרמל. בצלאל
התערוכות:
הַללֵּ. יקב כרמל
'יודאיקה עכשיו!':
כוסות וגביעי יין לקידוש
של אסכולת בצלאל

שתי התערוכות עוסקות בשני מפעלים חלוציים: יקב ראשון־לציון
ובית הספר לאמנויות "בצלאל". שניהם, כל אחד בתחומו, הניחו
תשתית חומרית ותרבותית ליישוב היהודי המתחדש בארץ ישראל.
שתי התערוכות המוצגות במשולב, מציגות את נקודות ההשקה בין שני
המפעלים. העיקרית שבהן היא העובדה שתוצריהם, היין ואמנות בצלאל,
היוו סמל ליישוב היהודי המתחדש ונרכשו על ידי יהודי הגולה כמחווה
רגשית של אהבת ארץ ישראל וכתרומה למען הגשמת הרעיון של
יישובה. היקב מוצג מן הזווית ההיסטורית ואילו בצלאל מוצג מנקודת
מבט אמנותית עכשווית.
היקב היה סמל להגשמת חזון יישוב ארץ ישראל, מקור לגאווה ואבן
שואבת למנהיגי עם ועולם שנשאו עיניהם אליו וביקרו בו. התערוכה
"הלל. יקב כרמל" מבקשת להציג את החדשנות של יקב ראשון־לציון
בשנותיו הראשונות כמפעל תעשיה חקלאית מודרני הבולט במרחב
המזרח התיכון ועומד במרכז חיי הכלכלה של ראשון־לציון ומושבות
הסביבה. בתערוכה מוצגים התפתחותו, הישגיו, אתגריו, גלגוליו,
קשריו עם הגולה והשפעתו על ראשון־לציון ועל הישוב בארץ־ישראל.
עיקר התערוכה עוסק בעשורים הראשונים לקיום היקב שהיו השנים
המשמעותיות בתולדותיו שבמהלכן עוצב בו מודל תעשייתי חדשני
ופורץ דרך בארץ.
התערוכה, "׳יודאיקה עכשיו!׳: כוסות וגביעי יין לקידוש של אסכולת
בצלאל" מציגה 48 גביעי יין וקידוש עכשוויים מעשה ידיהם של אמנים
ומעצבים השייכים לאסכולת בצלאל. מהתערוכה ניבטת תפיסת העולם
ושפתם האמנותית של חברי וחברות האסכולה כפי שאלו מקבלות ביטוי
בתשמישי קדושה. משתתפי התערוכה הקבוצתית, עברו כולם בבצלאל:
בין שלמדו או שלימדו בו או בין שהובילו אותו כראשי המחלקות. חלק
נכבד מאמנים אלה נעשו לאמני היודאיקה המובילים, שיצירותיהם
מעטרות את אוספי המוזיאונים החשובים בישראל ובעולם.

אוצרים:
הלל, יקב כרמל: יונה שפירא
'יודאיקה עכשיו!': כוסות וגביעי יין לקידוש
של אסכולת בצלאל: ד"ר שירת־מרים שמיר ועידו נוי