Thatlazymachinist

Page 1
Hi and welcome to my free online

MACHINE SHOP COURSE
FOR NOVICE MACHINISTS
As you work your way through this document, you will encounter
certain titles that appear in blue. These are links to pertinent videos
that I have produced. The idea here is to read the notes and watch
the corresponding videos as they are suggested, I believe that
following the proper order will increase your learning since you may
find yourself spending time on less glamourous subjects that are all
too often overlooked such as safety, mathematics, materials,
blueprint reading .... This is a work in progress and I will add to it
as I produce new videos so check my web page regularly.
This is version 002

INDEX:
SECTION 1: INTRODUCTION PAGE 2
SECTION 2: SAFETY PAGE 6
SECTION 3: BASIC METROLOGY PAGE 17
SECTION 4: BENCHWORK PAGE 30
SECTION 5: BLUEPRINT READING PAGE 47
SECTION 6: LAYOUT WORK PAGE 48
SECTION 7: CHIP PRODUCTION PAGE 52
SECTION 8: MATERIALS AND METALLURGY PAGE 58
SECTION 9: SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS PAGE 59
SECTION 10-A: DRILL PRESS 101 PAGE 60
SECTION 10-B: ENGINE LATHE 101 PAGE 61
SECTION 10-C: MILLING MACHINE 101 PAGE 63
SECTION 10-D: SHAPER 101 PAGE 64
SECTION 10-E: GRINDERS 101 PAGE 64
SECTION 10-F: BAND SAW 101 PAGE 65
Page 2
SECTION 1: INTRODUCTION
ACCOMPANYING VIDEO FOR THIS SECTION:
MACHINE SHOP LESSON 1, INTRODUCTION
You can find all of my videos at

THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM
1-A: DEFINITIONS
Machining:
To make or finish a part that must be

dimensionally and geometrically accurate by
material removal using machine tools. It is an
accurate sculpting operation that produces useful parts.
Page 3
Machine tool:
Group of machines, that incorporate at least one accurate linear axis of motion,
that are designed to remove a controlled amount of material from a part (either by
chip productions, by material fusion or by material vaporization) generally
referred to as machining.
There are several types of machine tools, the most common are: the drill press, the
engine lathe, the milling machine (vertical, horizontal) and the surface grinder.
Machine shop:
A space in which is installed a number of machine tools, bench work tools,

measuring tools and heat treatment equipment. Type, size and quality of
equipment vary with type of work performed, there are no good or bad shops!
Bigger is not better! The only shop to be avoided is the unsafe shop!
Precision:
In the machine shop, precision can be defined in two
ways: The amount of acceptable error that a part can
incorporate (tolerance) or the smallest amount of
material that can be removed on a part for a specific
operation (a surface grinder is more accurate than a
mill because it can remove less material per pass).
1-B: WHAT JUSTIFIES MACHINING?

Machining is by far the most expensive way to mass produce mechanical parts. However, when a
small number of parts are required, when the operations cannot be completed any other way or
when the parts precision requires it, machining remains the best way to go.
Machining is generally used for four types of industrial activities: Research and development,
mass production, finishing and repair (maintenance) work.
#1: RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT
Prototype development and instrument making

require machining since many of the parts
produced are one off parts. Since very few of
these parts are produced it is not cost effective to
produce productions tooling.
Page 4
#2: MASS PRODUCTION (MANUFACTURING)
Although used less and less, manual

machining can still hold its own for short
runs on simple parts requiring few different
operations. However CNC machining is
widely used in short and medium runs on
parts that require multiple operations.
It is important to remember that mass producing parts requires specialized tooling

(moulds, punch and dies, fixtures ...) that need to be produced by very competent
machinist, toolmakers, mould makers ... These specialized tools are often
produced in tool rooms using traditional or CNC machines.
#3: FINISHING OPERATIONS (SECONDARY OPERATIONS)
Finishing operations include all the machining operations

required to finish a part that has been previously shaped by
another type of operation (moulding,, forging ...). These semi-
finished parts often require machining to increase precision and
to incorporate such things as threaded holes. An engine block is
a good example of this.
#4: REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE WORK
Some parts just can't be bought, and when that's the case, they are machined!
1-C: ATTITUDES AND APTITUDES

In the machine shop the part to produce is invariable. It is only acceptable if perfect. This implies
that the machinist's talent and creativity have nothing to do with the end result, but they have
everything to do with the road that leads to that perfect finished product.
The challenge is making a perfect part, the pleasure is the road that you choose to get
there!
Long term planning, a sequential approach to problem solving, an innovative mind and good
spatial perception are the hallmarks of a good machinist.
1-D: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO SUCCEED!
In order to succeed in the machine shop, one must become competent in these four areas:
Page 5
#1: MACHINING
With a minimum of training, anyone can operate a machine tool. The challenge
isn't operating a machine tool, the challenge is being creative with machine tools.
A machine operator is concerned with one or two operations to perform on a large
number of parts. The operator often receives specific instructions concerning only
the operations that he or she will perform. This is good honest work, and quite
often it is the starting point for apprentice machinists. To advance ones career, a
machinist or toolmaker must learn to "see" the whole project and to understand
the entire sequence of operations. A good machinist knows how to operate many
different types of machine tools and plan a sequence of operations that will lead to
that perfect part. It's the difference between playing the violin and being a
virtuoso.
#2: SKETCHING AND BLUEPRINT READING
A machinist must be able to sketch and must know

how to read complex blueprints. Sketching and
drawing are a machinist's way of clearly
communicating with the often uninitiated client.
Clients and bosses will be very happy if problems
in the design can be found by a machinist (who has
mastered blueprint reading) before the part is made.
Removing material is a lot easier than adding it.
#3: SCIENCES
In order to perform properly in the shop, a

machinist must have a good basic
understanding of mathematics (algebra and
trigonometry), physics (what happens to
parts when force is applied on them) and
materials. The sciences that most of us
studied in high school were quite often very
theoretical. The problems a machinist faces
everyday that require this knowledge to
resolve are real. The math and science that we need is basic, but must be resolved
accurately and perfectly. It is as important as cutting, as far as getting the perfect
part is concerned. Everything that a machinist calculates is checked and rechecked
because the boss isn't a math teacher and almost right is no good.
Page 6
#4: CREATIVITY
No one can be creative in the shop without knowledge. A person who is creative
in the shop without knowledge is called lucky (lucky that you haven't killed
yourself yet!).
Take the time to accumulate knowledge and experience. This course and the
accompanying practical videos will help you down that road. Take time to
learn, don't start by making crucial parts for your helicopter, because if
something goes wrong the consequences could be dire. Start by making new
bushings for your push lawnmower wheel, take the time to get a feel for
things and gradually work your way up. Creativity and confidence will come
with time.
1-E: A FEW SUGGESTIONS!

#1: In the machine shop, haste must never replace preparation.
#2: The dimensions and tolerances on a blueprint are the only ones that matter.
#3: It is impossible to produce accurate parts without accurate measurements.
#4: The sequence of operations is crucial and must be planned out before cutting.
#5: Precision is quite often the result of successive operations. The more a part needs
to be precise, the more operations will be required to complete it.
#6: Every machining operation has the potential of destroying your part. The sequence
of operations must be planned in a way that maximizes your chances of success.
SECTION 2: SAFETY
ACCOMPANYING VIDEOS FOR THIS SECTION:
MACHINE SHOP LESSON 2, SAFETY PART 1

also
also
also
Page 7
2-A: INTRODUCTION
Today's society provides us with a protective cocoon that, even if designed for our safety, can
sometimes help us lower our guard and become vulnerable to accidents.
Over protection can sometimes have perverse effects.
In the seventies, minor hockey associations introduced new rules in order to reduce the large
numbers of facial injuries. It was logical to suppose that the introduction of a mandatory face
shield would reduce facial injuries. And it did!
Sadly though, the reduction in facial injuries was accompanied by an increase in neck injuries.
The hockey associations didn't foresee that the increased protection would also, since the players
were less afraid of injury, increase the player's sense of invulnerability and push them to play
more aggressively. People who do not feel fear when faced with a dangerous situation are a
menace to themselves and to others. Fear increases our level of vigilance and prepares us to react
quickly when something goes wrong. I think that it's safe to say that
NO FEAR = NO BRAINS !
A machine shop is not by definition a safe place to be. If used improperly, all machine tools can
injure and maim, some can even kill! If this does not inspire you to work safely and to be
attentive in the shop, well perhaps you have chosen the wrong trade. Even though I have worked
in shops for years and years, I still remind myself each time I approach a machine that I have ten
fingers and two eyes and that I want to finish the job with all my body parts intact.
Page 8
2-B: IMPORTANT WORK HABITS TO ADOPT
#1: We all try to catch things (with our hands or feet) that fall accidentally. In the
shop we have to get used to letting things fall and fixing the problems later. If we
get used to catching little things (pencils, glasses ...), it becomes probable that we
will try to catch larger or much sharper things (vices, steel bars, milling
cutters ...). A habit quickly becomes a reflex.
#2: Many of us have the habit of trying to stop (with our hands) a moving mechanical
assembly when something goes wrong. A classic example would be trying to stop
by hand a spinning lathe chuck that is becoming loose on the lathe spindle. When
something goes very wrong, here is a good way to control your instincts:
2.1: Take a step backwards placing your hands to each side of your
body.
2.2: Take a deep breath and locate the nearest emergency stop button.
2.3: Activate the emergency stop and walk away!!!
#3: It is important to develop the habit of never adjusting a machine tool (installing
parts, installing tools & accessories ...) that is not turned off by at least two
switches. If you are repairing a machine its electrical feed must be locked out.
#4: Avoid quick movements, get

used to working at a safe and
steady pace.
#5: Work standing up and avoid

leaning on machine tools.
#6: Keep your work area clean,

nothing on the ground to trip or
slip on! No piles of tools on
machines or benches that can
fall!
#7: Be aware of what is going on around you. You may be working safely, but is your
neighbour doing the same? You could be injured by someone else.
#8: Read up on, study and learn about a machine tool before turning it on!
Page 9
#9: Don't suffer in silence! If something goes wrong make some noise! Others can
help. If you are working alone have an intercom system on at all times. An
otherwise moderate injury can become disastrous if no one is around to assist.
#10: Never, never, never ever leave a chuck key in a chuck! Even for one second.
#11: Get used to holding chuck keys with the same hand that you use to start machines.
#12: Wait for a machine to stop moving completely before adjusting anything, before
cleaning anything or before removing anything.
#13: A machine tool must be adjusted and operated by one person and only one person.
#14: Never, never, never ever let your fingers (if you wish to keep them, other than in a
box) get close to a moving or rotating cutter!
#15: Never let an injured person drive or seek medical attention alone!
#16: Always wear eye protection in the shop!
#17: Steel toe work boots or shoes preferably with anti skid soles must be worn at all
time in the shop.
#18: Clothing in the shop should conform to these requirements:
18.1: Material should be easily torn and fire resistant, cotton is preferred.
18.2: Loose fitting clothes that can become entangled in machine parts
must be avoided.
18.3: Long sleeves should be rolled above elbow, short sleeves are
preferred.
18.4: Pants must fall over top of boots or shoes, no cuffs and no shorts
allowed.
#19: Rings, watches, bracelets, neck chains, neck ties or any other accessories that can
cause or aggravate an accident are to be avoided.
#20: Long hair (more than two inches) must be controlled in a cap or bonnet. Pony tails
and braids are not acceptable.
Page 10
#21: As far as alcohol or prescription drugs go, if the law or your doctor says that you
should not be driving, you should not be working in a shop.
#22: The shop should be a fun place to be, but it is important to always remember that
it is a dangerous place to be, so roughhousing and pranks are not welcome.
#23: It is recommended to never work alone in the shop, for home shops, an intercom
and letting someone who can check on you know that you will be working in the
shop can help keep things safe...
#24: Always follow the safety recommendations and instructions provided with your
equipment. If you do not have these documents, contact your manufacturer to get
a copy.
#25: Never render inoperative the safety features of your equipment. Manufacturers go
out of their way to make safe machines, when they incorporate a feature it is
because it is required!
#26: THINK FIRE SAFETY!!!! have your shop inspected by your local fire
department.
2-C: MOVING HEAVY OBJECTS

Lifting and moving heavy objects is responsible of many shop injuries. It is not necessary to be
incredibly strong to move heavy objects safely; common sense and following these safety rules
will get your parts where they need to be.
#1: Be conservative and realistic when evaluating an objects weight.

Always suppose that it will be heavier than you think.
#2: Plan your move! Make sure that the path that joins where you are to
where you have to be is clear and clean. Prepare the objects final resting
place before you lift!
#3: Pain can change an objects weight! Even a relatively light object can
become "heavy" if it is difficult to hold. Things that have odd shapes,
things that don't have good gripping surfaces (very profiled parts) and
things that have sharp edges can surprise you since they are easy to lift
but difficult to hold!
#4: Lift with your legs not with your back! Your back must remain straight
and vertical when lifting.
Page 11
#5: Never twist your back! When turning during a lift it is crucial to turn
with your feet avoiding twisting your spine.
#6: Trust your brain more than your brawn! If you have any doubt about a
lift, use the appropriate equipment. Hydraulic tables, roller cranes, floor
jacks, overhead cranes, "A" frames and come along etc. are there to help
and are just as important as lathes and mills in a shop.
#7: Lifting heavy objects should be a solo job, communication problems can
make lifting in teams very dangerous. I generally recommend that you use
equipment rather than buddies. You can damage equipment, but you
can't kill it.
2-D: SOME SPECIFIC DANGERS

In order to reduce immediately the chance of accidents, let's look at a few safety rules that apply
specifically to certain machines.
BENCH GRINDER
#1: The tool rests, the side guards, the

spark guards and the face shield
are integral parts of your bench
grinder, they must be functional
and adjusted regularly.
#2: The grinding wheel you use must

be certified for your grinders
R.P.M.
#3: Avoid grinding non ferrous

metals.
#4: Use the tool rest to stabilize your work part and maintain a safe distance between
your fingers and the wheel.
NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO WATCH FROM A

SAFETY PERSPECTIVE:
INTRODUCTION TO THE BENCH GRINDER, GRINDING 101

Page 12
DRILL PRESS
#1: Long hair can get entangled in the spindle. This

may sound funny but it kills and disfigures many
people every year.
#2: We all know that we must never leave a key in a

chuck (drill press or lathe). Less people know that
it is dangerous to attach a drill chuck key to a
machine using a chain or a cord. It can make a
bad accident worst, really quickly.
#3: If your drill press is not equipped with a rack and

pinion (rack and pinion gears being self locking) for
lifting or lowering the table, use a clamp on the column to avoid dropping the
table all the way to the base (crushing foot injuries).
#4: Never use a milling vice on the drill press (other than a radial arm drill press).
Drill press vices are made to be light, easy to handle and stable even when not
clamped to a table.
#5: Thin parts, soft parts and large parts can all be snagged by a drill bit. What can
you do?
Thin parts: Sandwich thin parts between thicker parts of a similar

material or assemble a support drill jig directly
on the work table.
Soft parts: Brass, copper, lead and most plastics can get snagged by
the drill bit at any moment. Straight flute drills or
helical drills with small flat produced on the cutting
edges must be used for these materials.
Large parts: Large parts that are not fixed to the table must be
blocked by a fixed pin in order to eliminate any
possibility of rotation.
#6: Chips and debris left on a drill press table as well as poorly deburred holes can
destabilize parts and cause accidents.
#7: A drill press is not a milling machine or a router.

Page 13
SAFETY PERSPECTIVE:
THE DRILL PRESS PART 1
also
1-2-3 BLOCK PROJECT PART 2
also
DRILL POINT GAUGE PART 1
BAND SAW
#1: Adjust the height of the blade guard for

each part sawed.
#2: When pushing on a part keep your feet

well apart (back to front) with the front
foot leaning against the base of the
machine. This stable position will help
to avoid hitting your head on the
machine should the blade break.
#3: Never push on a part with your hand in front of the blade. If your part is too small,
use a band saw vice or other accessory that keeps your hand well away from the
blade.
#4: Thin section parts that are difficult to support (radiators, heat sinks) can be
snagged by the blade and should be cut with great care.
#5: In order to avoid pinching your fingers (very painful purple fingernail syndrome)
cylindrical parts should be stabilized with clamps or an indexable drill press vice.
#6: To avoid cutting your fingers because of a sliding part, notch the surface to be cut
before undertaking an angular cut.

SAFETY PERSPECTIVE:
V-BLOCK PART 7
Page 14
LATHE
#1: Never leave a chuck key in a chuck!

Never, not even for one second!
#2: Never pull on or pick up chips with your

fingers, even if the machine is
turned off!
#3: A part that is held in a chuck but that is

not supported by a tail stock centre must
never protrude from the end of the jaws by more than two times its
diameter. Short parts however must be held at least one half length in the chuck.
#4: Disengage the feed transmission when using manual feed for cutting. This reduces
the wear of the gears and eliminates all possibilities of engaging the feed by
mistake.
#5: Long thin parts that protrude from the back end of the spindle must be contained
in fixed metal tubes in order to avoid bending the rotating part by centrifugal
force creating what resembles a lawn trimmer on steroids that can kill or maim.
#6: Check regularly that your chuck is still well fixed to the spindle.
#7: When polishing with abrasive strips, never let the strip contact the part on
more than half its outside diameter. If the strip contacts the full diameter it will
snag on the part and quite often tear your thumbnail off. When polishing inside
diameters, never insert your finger in the hole to be polished. Never! Mount your
abrasive on a soft wood stick that is notably smaller than the hole to be polished.
#8: Verify the automatic feed's speed and direction before getting close to the part.
#9: For novice machinist, it is preferable to move only one axis at a time, using both
hands to move each hand wheel.

SAFETY PERSPECTIVE:
013 HAMMER HANDLE PART 1, LATHE 101

Page 15
MILLING MACHINE
#1: Milling cutters and fingers aren't made to live together.

Handle all cutters with respect, be very careful during
installation and removal and never ever let your fingers
get close to a rotating cutter. NEVER!
#2: Always verify that the mills rotational direction is set

properly for the cutter you are using before cutting,
because after it's too late!
#3: Verify that the tool is properly fixed in the spindle and that all unused axis are
locked.
#4: It is dangerous for novice machinists to climb mill. Use conventional or "push"
milling until you feel comfortable about your abilities.
#5: Ensure that your part is properly fixed and if you are using a vice, verify that
it is well fixed and properly aligned.
#6: Avoid accelerating your automatic feed for tool returns. Many accidents are the
result of an operator forgetting to lower the feed before taking the next cut.
#7: Get used to starting the cutter rotation long before the tool gets close to the
part to be cut. Large diameter tools or tools with few cutting teeth (fly cutters)
can sometimes give the impression of clearing the part when in fact they are in
interference.
#8: Never place a waste can, a stool, a chair, a cart or any such object near or next to a
milling machine that has automatic vertical feed because it creates a crushing
hazard. The same applies to your legs if you are sitting close to the machine
(always work standing up).
#9: Check, before starting the machine, that you haven't forgotten to remove the
wrench from the end of the spindle draw bar.
#10: Never place your hand under a milling cutter when removing it from the spindle.

SAFETY PERSPECTIVE:
023 THE 1-2-3 BLOCK PROJECT PART 1
Page 16
SURFACE GRINDER
#1: Dress the grinding wheel regularly.
#2: Verify before starting the spindle that the

magnetic table (chuck) is activated.
#3: A part that is higher than it is wide in any

direction must be supported when mounted
on a surface grinder.
#4: Thin parts do not hold well on magnetic

tables.
#5: Most stainless steels do not hold well on

magnetic tables.
#6: There should always be a blotter between the grinding wheel and the mounting
flanges of your grinder.
#7: The indicated maximum R.P.M. of your grinding wheel must be higher or even to
the actual R.P.M. of your machine.

SAFETY PERSPECTIVE:
025 THE 1-2-3 BLOCK PROJECT PART 3

Page 17
SECTION 3: BASIC METROLOGIE

ACCOMPANYING VIDEOS FOR THIS SECTION:
METROLOGY PART 1
also
METROLOGY PART 2
also
METROLOGY PART 3
3-A: HISTORIC OVERVIEW
Most of our daily activities are controlled by some type of measuring system. The speed limits on
our roads and highways are good examples of the impact that
measuring systems have on our lives.
One of the oldest recorded unit of measurement is the cubit, which

is a linear measurement equal to the distance that separates the
elbow from the end of the middle finger. The cubit, as was the case
for most units of measurement before the sixteenth century, was
based on human anatomy. It became obvious that due to human
diversity, it was impossible to have standard and universal
measurements
One way of reducing the error due to humane diversity was to

average things out. In England, in 1542, the following instructions
were proclaimed in order to normalize linear measurements:
"On a certain Sunday as they come out of church, 16 men shall stand in
line with the left feet touching, one behind the other. This distance shall
be the legal rod and one sixteenth of it shall be the foot."
Averaging out helped, but more precision was needed and averaging had it's limits. Eventually
stable objects became the basis for most measuring systems. That is how a stone became the
standard for weight measurement and a bronze bar became the standard for linear distance.
Stable objects as standard helped uniformity, but these new standards had their limits. The
biggest problem was their uniqueness. Copies where made but even if much attention is taken, a
copy is never as accurate as the original and if the original is lost or destroyed, precision suffers.
Page 18
Today's standards are linked to physical reactions rather than physical objects. Stable and
predictable physical reactions solve the problem of unique standards. As an example lets look at
the one meter standard that is kept in Paris. The meter we use today can be defined by
comparison to that bronze bar (archaic system) or it can be defined by comparing to the length of
1 650 763, 73 wave lengths of red-orange light. The importance of developing accurate standards
can be seen in the evolution of industrial production.
- Before the 19 Th century, most parts were unique. This does not mean that two
parts could not be similar, it means that they were not interchangeable... if
something broke, replacement parts required a lot of adjustment, that is if the parts
didn't need to be made from scratch.
- It's during the 19 Th century that specific industries started using "in house
measurement standards" making parts produced by that industry or company
interchangeable, increasing part quality at the same time.
- It wasn't until the early part of the 20 Th century, and the advent of war, that
widely used standards became popular. Finally interchangeable parts from
different sources, something produced in the United States could fit on something
produced in England!
- Today's standards permit a level of precision

and interchangeability unimaginable 50 years
ago. Our global economy would not exist if not
for our capacity to measure accurately based on
the same standards worldwide. In actuality, a
civilizations technological development is
intimately related to it's capacity to measure
precisely.
3-B: BASIC TERMINOLOGY AND PRINCIPLES

A: DIRECT MEASUREMENT
A direct measurement is one that was performed with a

measuring tool that incorporates a readable scale. The
precision of a direct measurement is directly related to
the precision of the instrument used. Steel rulers,
micrometers, vernier callipers and protractors are
examples of direct measuring instruments.
Page 19
B: COMPARATIVE MEASUREMENT
A comparative measurement is one that uses an instrument to

compare a part to an established standard. This type of
measurement is generally considered to be more accurate
than direct measurements since it relates to a parts tolerance
rather than to a dimension and since no readable scales are
used there is less space for interpretation. Sine bars, joe
blocks, straight edges and optical comparators are examples
of comparative measuring tools.
C: TOLERANCE
Tolerance is the precision to which a dimension

indicated on a plan must be respected.
EXAMPLE: 5" +- .005"

The part is acceptable if it's actual
dimension is between 4.995" and
5.005" (inclusively)
It is important to note that measuring tools also have

tolerances.
EXAMPLE: A standard inch

micrometer should not be used to
measure a part having a tolerance of
+- .0005" or less
D: STANDARD
Object or reaction that is the material representation defining a measuring system.
EXAMPLE: The standard for time is the vibration of a caesium

atom, 9 192 631 770 vibrations of this atom is equal
to one second.
E: SURFACE FINISH
Description and classification of surface imperfections produced by machining

operations.
Page 20
F: DECIMAL PRECISION
On a drawing or a sketch, it is important to use the correct number of decimals on
a dimension since they generally indicate to the machinist the precision required
for measuring.
EXAMPLE: Imperial steel ruler = two decimals
Imperial vernier calliper = three decimals
G: ERROR MULTIPLICATION
It is crucial to avoid moving you reference point when measuring. It is much more
accurate to measure one four foot length than four one foot lengths. Each
measurement includes an error. Stringing together several measurements
compromises accuracy.
H: IMPERIAL SYSTEM (INCH)
In the machine shop, the unit used for linear imperial measurement is the inch. In
the shop we prefer saying Twenty five inches rather than two feet and one inch.
The imperial system can however be fractional or decimal.
The fractional systems stems from a time when tradesmen where poorly trained in
mathematics and calculators did not exist. The reason being that it is easier to
perform basic math operations on fractions. Today, the fractional system is mostly
used to define nominal stock dimensions or accurate tool dimensions.
The decimal imperial system is based on the thousandth decimal.(0.001"). In the

shop we describe decimal imperial dimensions in inches first and thousandths of
an inch second. So 3.105" would be described as three inches, one hundred and
five thousandths. If ten thousandths of an inch are present they are stipulated
separately at the end.
EXAMPLE: 2.0533" would be described as two inches, fifty three
thousandths and three ten thousandths.
I: METRIC SYSTEM (MM)
In the machine shop, metric dimension are described in millimetres. It is
preferable to say 25 millimetres rather than two point five centimetres.
when a dimension needs to be described more accurately, we still describe it in

millimetres.
EXAMPLE: 30,51 mm would be described as thirty point 51
millimetres.
Please note that in Europe the decimal point does not exist in the metric system, it is replaced by the comma.
Page 21
3-C: LINEAR MEASUREMENTS IN THE SHOP
More often than not, measurements in the shop are linear measurements. Parallel surfaces,
inclined surfaces and profiled surfaces are all measures with linear measurement techniques from
a reference surface or reference point.
Example: In order to measure a cylindrical shape, we measure its diameter. Even if the surface is
curved, it is measured in a linear fashion. If the surface is an irregular three dimensional curve, it
will still be measured linearly with X,Y and Z Cartesian coordinates.
There are a multitude of different parts and shapes to measure in the shop and that is why there
are so many different types of measuring tools. Some measuring tools are very accurate others
are much less, what is important is to choose the proper measuring tool for the job at hand.
The most important thing to consider when choosing a measuring tool is the precision (tolerance)
of the part being measured. It might be tempting to choose the most accurate measuring tool for
all jobs. However a person using a vernier micrometer (accurate measuring tool) to measure a
rough casting is possibly damaging an expensive tool when an inexpensive steel ruler would do
the trick just as well since the rough casting has no accurate surfaces to measure
from.
Another important factor to consider is availability. Since measuring tools are

expensive, it is rare that a shop has all possible tools in inventory. A good
machinist finds ways to get good result by imagining different ways of measuring
hard to reach entities. Regardless of how accurate a tool is, the end measurement will only be
good if the machinist uses it properly. Measuring parts isn't difficult! What is difficult is getting
good results that reflect the tolerance of the part being produced.
The basic linear measurement tools are:
SURFACE PLATES
STEEL RULERS
VERNIER CALIPERS
MICROMETERS (int., ext., depth)
VERNIER HEIGHT GAUGES
DIAL INDICATORS
GAUGE BLOCKS
SURFACE PLATES:
Surface plates are very flat and rigid tables made of granite or cats iron that are a reference
surface for accurate measurement, assembly and layout. Surface plates are massive but they are
to be used delicately since they are one of the most accurate measuring tool in the shop.
SURFACE PLATES ARE NOT WORKBENCHES!!!

Page 22
STEEL RULERS:
Steel rulers are one of the most used measuring tools in

the shop. They are available in many sizes and are quite
versatile when used with ruler accessories. A precision
steel ruler can be read to with an accuracy of 0.010".
Imperial precision rulers are generally graduated in
fractions (1/32"and 1/64"), in decimal (0.010") and metric
rulers are usually graduated in half millimetres.
VERNIER, DIAL AND DIGITAL

CALIPERS:
Vernier callipers are precision measuring

instruments used to measure parts within a
tolerance of .002" or 0,04 mm. They can be
had with a vernier scale, a dial scale or a
digital readout. The tools accuracy is affected
by its quality but not by the type of scale
used. Most measuring callipers come
equipped for external, internal and depth
measurements.
VERNIER CALIPERS 101
MICROMETERS:
Micrometers are the most accurate of the everyday direct measuring tools. A standard
micrometer can measure with a precision of 0,02 mm or .001". A vernier or digital micrometer
can measure with a precision of 0,002 mm or .0001". Obviously this supposes that you are using
good quality tools and that you are using them properly.
Micrometers are very accurate but they are also very limited. A micrometer can measure only one
type of surface and in 1" or 25 mm increments. You must use a 0 to 1" micrometer in order to
measure a 0 to 1" part and so on. That means that you would need to have several (at least 8)
micrometers in order to perform all the measurements that a 6" vernier calliper can.
There are three major families of micrometers:
Page 23
EXTERNAL MICROMETERS
DEPTH MICROMETERS
INTERNAL MICROMETERS
MICROMETERS 101
VERNIER, DIAL AND DIGITAL HEIGHT GAUGES:
Height gauges are very versatile tools. They can be used for direct or comparative
measurements and as a layout tool. Height gauges resemble vernier callipers
mounted vertically on a very accurate base. The base stabilizes the tool when
used in conjunction with a surface plate and permits very accurate measuring.
DIRECT MEASUREMENTS: With a good vernier height gauge it is

possible to perform linear measurements within .001" or 0,02 mm and
digital height gauges can be even more accurate.
COMPARATIVE MEASURMENTS: When used in conjunction with a dial

indicator and gauge blocks, the height gauge can be used for extremely accurate
comparative measurements.
LAYOUT: A point for scribing can also be mounted on the height gauge for
accurate layout.
Page 24
DIAL INDICATORS:
Dial indicators are mostly used in conjunction with gauge blocks as comparative measurement
tools. They are also used for tool and machine alignment such as milling vice truing and part
centring in a lathe four jaw chuck. In some cases they can be used as direct measuring tools.
There are two major types of dial indicators:
CONTINUOUS-READING
DIAL INDICATORS:
PRECISION TEST
DIAL INDICATORS:
ACCOMPANYING VIDEOS FOR DIAL INDICATORS:
TRUING A MILLING MACHINE VICE, MILLING 101

ALSO
FOUR JAW CHUCK CENTERING, LATHE 101
ALSO
HEAD ALIGNEMENT AND EDGE FINDING, MILLING 101
Page 25
GAUGE BLOCS:
Gauge blocks are very hard and stable blocks that are very very accurate. The two measuring
surfaces of each block lapped and polished to an accuracy of +- 0,00005 mm for the most
accurate sets. The blocks accuracy is affected by temperature so they must be used at 20º C
(68°F)
There are three classes of gauge blocks:
AA: Generally used to verified the two other

classes of blocks.
+- 0,00005 mm
A: Generally used to calibrate measuring tools.
+ 0,00015 mm - 0,00005 mm
B: Generally used for accurate measurements

in the shop.
+ 0,00025 mm - 0,00015 mm
GAUGE BLOCKS & SINE BARS 101 LQ#009
3-D: HOW TO READ A VERINIER SCALE

Vernier scales use asymmetrical scales to amplify what would normally be too small to see.
The imperial vernier calliper has two graduated scales. The first is the fixed scale and is
graduated in 0.025" segments. Four segments of the fixed scale equal 0.1" and 10 divisions of
0.1" equal 1".
The second scale is the vernier scale and it is divided in 25 segments. Each segment
REPRESENTS 0.001". These divisions don't measure 0.001"!!! This 25 divisions are equivalent
(in value only) to one division on the fixed scale.
In order to read an imperial vernier calliper you must first count all the complete divisions
visible before the zero line of the vernier scale. This first reading will always be a multiple of
0.025". The reading for the fixed scale of example A is 3.925". The reading for the fixed scale of
Page 26
example B is 1.675".
Once you have noted the reading for the fixed scale you must find the line on the vernier scale
that aligns with a line on the fixed scale. Unless the dimension of the part falls on a multiple of
0.025" (in which case the vernier scale will not be needed) the vernier scale will read somewhere
between 0.001" et 0.024" inclusively. The reading for the vernier scale of example A is 0.018"
and the reading for example B is 0.012".
The final measurement is obtained by adding the result of the fixed scale to that of vernier scale
Example A: 3.925" + 0.018" = 3.943"
Example B : 1.675" + 0.012" = 1.687"
A metric vernier calliper also has two scales the longest is the fixed scale and it is graduated in 1
mm segments every tenth segment representing 1 cm.
The second scale is the vernier scale and is graduated in 50 segments REPRESENTING
0,02mm each. The 50 divisions of the vernier scale are equivalent to one division on the fixed
scale.
In order to read a metric vernier calliper you must first count all of the complete divisions on
the fixed scale up to the zero line of the vernier scale. This first reading will always be a
multiple of 1 mm. The fixed scale of example C shows 16 mm and the fixed scale of example D
shows 53 mm. You must then add to the result of the first reading the amount shown by the line
of the vernier scale that aligns with a line on the fixed scale. This second reading will always be a
multiple of 0,02 mm. The final dimension obtained by adding the first reading to the second. The
reading for the vernier scale of example C is 0,34 mm.
Example C : 16 mm + 0,34 mm = 16,34 mm

Page 27
A few examples of imperial vernier scales:
A few examples of metric vernier scales:
Associate dimensions with scales: 0.006" 81,18mm 87,46mm 0.304" 8,94mm 4.023"
remember that the lines on an actual vernier scale are much crisper than these scans.
Page 28
3-E: ANGULAR MEASUREMENT IN THE SHOP
With the exception of profiled surfaces, angular surfaces are the most difficult to measure
accurately since angular measuring tools are generally more difficult to manipulate and since
angular measurements depend on the interaction of many variables.
EXAMPLE: A standard micrometer is the only tool required in order to measure a

cylindrical part within +- 0.001". With only a micrometer I can easily verify the
parts diameter, cylindricity and its parallelism. In comparison, it is not possible to
verify a surfaces flatness with a protractor. In order to verify the flatness of an
angles surfaces, you need other tools and as we know multiple measurements for a
single entity (error multiplication) increases the possibility of error.
The most common angular measurement tools are:
PROTRACTORS.
VERNIER PROTRACTORS.
SINE BARS AND GAUGE BLOCS.
OPTICAL COMPARATORS.
TRIG & TRIANGLES SHOP MATH 101

also
EMMA'S ANGULAR PROBLEM!
PROTRACTORS:
Simple protractors are used for low precision

angular measurements. Their scales are generally
composed of 180 divisions of 1º each. Even if
these tools are not very accurate, they are often
used to approximate an angle before using a sine
bar.
Page 29
VERNIER PROTRACTORS:
Vernier protractors are used for angular measurements of

medium accuracy. These tools can be read to an accuracy of
+- 5' (+- 5 minutes of a degree) which is sufficient for most
angular measurements in the machine shop. There are two (at
least) measuring surfaces on these tools. The first is the foot
which incorporates the fixed scale that consists of 360 division
equal to 1º each. The second is the ruler that is attached to a
vernier scale of 24 divisions each representing 5' of a degree.
These protractors come equipped with several attachments that
permit a wide range of angular measurements.
SINE BARS:
Sine bars are the most accurate general purpose angular

measuring tools used in the shop. However, it must be
used in conjunction with a surface plate, gauge blocks and
a dial indicator that is usually mounted on a surface gauge.
This makes for a very expensive method for measuring
angles and should only be used when required.
Trigonometry is used to set its height and the variables
needed are either height of the opposite side of the angle to
be measured (required gauge blocks) or the angle itself.
The hypotenuse of the right angle triangle formed will be
the distance separating the two cylindrical support surfaces. This distance
and the diameter of the cylinders are extremely accurate.
3-F: GAUGES:
Many people are use to looking at measurements as being absolutes. Machinists know that that is
not the case and that all measurements have tolerances and limits within which the dimension is
deemed correct. This does not imply that parts with a loose tolerance (example +-0.01") are
inaccurate. All parts that respect the tolerance indicated on the blue print are equally accurate
whether the tolerance is tight (example +-0.001") or loose. Tolerances must reflect the end use
of a part, making a butter knife as accurately as a surgical scalpel would be a great waste of time
and money.
Gauges exploit the fact that all dimensions have tolerances to accelerate inspection and lower the
cost of quality control.
Page 30
Gauges are comparative measuring tools and most gauges give no indication of the actual
dimension of a part. All they do is indicate whether a
part is within the acceptable tolerance.
Since all dimensions have an upper and lower limit it is

normal that two gauges be required to indicate if the part
is acceptable. These upper and lower limits gauges are
known as "GO AND NO GO GAUGES". If one end
of the go and no go gauge shown in example A threads
into a hole but the other end does not, the thread is
within its tolerance. If neither end thread in or if both
ends thread in, the part is out of tolerance.
Gauges are very accurate tools but they also have a

tolerance. Usually a gauges tolerance must be around
one tenth the tolerance of the part being measured.
Example: Tolerance of the part +- .001"
Tolerance of the gauge +- .0001"
Many gauges are commercially available but an

experiences toolmaker can produce special gauges for specific jobs.
SECTION 4: BENCHWORK
4-A: INTRODUCTION
In the shop, the difference between an OK part and an EXCELLENT part is quite often related to
proper bench work techniques.
For the novice machinist it is important to become adept at bench work as soon as possible since
it is a good way to increase ones awareness of the properties of the material being cut. When
using bench work tools, the machinist is almost in direct contact with the chip production
(cutting) and that helps to understand how metal cutting works.
All you have to do is open a tool supply catalogue to see that there are many different types of
hand tools. Since this lesson is for novice machinists we will only look at the most common
bench work tools.
Page 31
ACCOMPANYING VIDEOS FOR BENCH WORK:
BENCH WORK PART 1

ALSO
BENCH WORK PART 2
ALSO
BENCH WORK PART 3
ALSO
BENCH WORK PART 4
ALSO
BENCH WORK PART 5
ALSO
BENCH WORK PART 6
ALSO
KEYWAYS & BROACHING
ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
DRILL POINT GAUGE'S GRADUATED SCALE
4-B: VICES:
Vices are used to immobilize and position parts so that they may be cut or machined accurately.
Since many bench work operations require that both hands be on the tool, we can say that bench
vices often serve as a third hand. Since there are many types of parts and many types of
operations to perform, it is not surprising that there exist many types and sizes of vices. The three
main types of vices are: Bench vices, drill press vices and milling machine vices.
Page 32
BENCH VICES:
Bench vices are available in many different sizes and weights. They are to be properly secured to
a work bench and are used to stabilize parts for assembly, punching, hack sawing, filing,
polishing, threading ... They are usually mounted so that their fixed jaw is just proud of the edge
of the work bench as to permit the holding of long parts vertically.
Characteristics of a good bench vice:
- A strong and rigid structure, a
good vice is made of forged
medium carbon steel (best) or
ductile cast iron (acceptable).
- The vice jaws should be

removable in order to replace when
damaged or to fit special jaws for
specific parts (soft jaws, v-grooved
jaws...).
- A 360º rotary base.
- An Acme drive thread and if

possible a split nut quick release in
order to avoid wasting time
spinning the handle.
N.B. A bench vice is not an anvil !!!
DRILL PRESS VICES:
These vices have wide and stable bases which is important since they are often deposited on drill
press tables with out being fixed to them.
They are usually made of grey cast iron since the lateral
forces exerted on them are quite low and since this
material has excellent anti friction qualities when sliding
on steel. Grey cast iron is quite inexpensive which makes
these vices quite affordable and that is good since they are
the most abused and ill loved vices in the shop. For ease
of manipulation these vices are designed to be very light
Page 33
and that also makes them quite delicate and not very resistant to shock.
N.B. Some drill press vices can be used on their sides and even upside down. These indexable
drill press vices (photo) can also be used (upside down) as vertical band saw vices as seen in the
MACHINE SHOP SAFETY PART 3
MILLING MACHINE VICES:
These vices are usually bolted firmly to that machine tools work surface. They are very rigid and
can exert a huge amount of holding force on the work part since the machine tools that they are
used with can exert a lot of lateral force on the part during the machining process.
They are massive rigid and very accurate since they must
be at least as accurate as the machine tool that you are
using them on. Do not be fooled by their size, these
vices are and must remain very accurate and must be
handled with great care.
Some machine vices incorporate a rotary base (for

angular cuts) and or a pivot axis (for compound cuts).
Rotary base vices and universal vices should only be
used when required since the rotary axes reduce rigidity
and make for a weaker setup.
N.B. Although one could use a dead blow hammer to loosen a machine vice's handle, it should
never be used to tighten one. The vice handle has been designed for the vice and handle
extensions should not be used so if the vice is having trouble holding the part get a bigger vice!
4-C: HAMMERS
Most people know that hammers are made to strike (hammer) things. The problem is that that is
all that most people know about hammers.
It is important to know that hammers are complex tools that are designed for specific jobs so it is
normal to think that there are many many types of hammers. Here are the three basic types used
in a machine shop.
BALL PEEN HAMMER:
These hammers are available in many different weights and each hammer has two very different
faces (striking surfaces). The first face is slightly convex and is used for punching, assembly and
Page 34
forming operations. The second face (the peen) resembles a half sphere and is generally used for
riveting and peening operations.
Here are a few suggestion for proper and safe use of a ball peen
hammer:
- Other than when peening, the hammer's movement
must not be pendulum like. This hammer should be
dropped (straight vertical movement) rather than
swung.
- It should not be used on materials harder than

50Rc.
- Hammers with loose heads or damaged handles

should never be used.
- If you need to hit harder, choose a heavier hammer! Always use a safe striking
speed. Use gravity to accelerate the hammer, not muscle.
POSITIONING HAMMER:
Lite and delicate, these hammers are designed for crisp energy transfer when
positioning without marring the surface being struck.
They are used when positioning work parts on machine tools. Rapid energy
transfer versus a parts capacity to absorb it is the corner stone of accurate
positioning.
N.B. The hammer produced in the hammer project videos is a positioning

hammer.
DEAD BLOW HAMMERS:
These hammers are massive and are used to seat parts in machine vices
thanks to an internal cavity that is half-filled with small steel balls. The steel
balls movement when striking the part reduces the rebound problem by
stretching the strike time thus absorbing the excess energy that would
normally make the part bounce of the bottom of the vice. I guess we could
say that when action meets immobility, we have rebound and when seating a
part rebound is not good.
Page 35
4-D: PUNCHES
PRICK PUNCHES:
These punches have 40º to 60º points and are used to produce small indentations on the surface
of a part in order to position one of the points of a divider or to make an accurate starting point
for a centre punch or for producing a permanent layout.
N.B. Since punch penetration is a factor of surface of contact

between the punch and the part, it is recommended to use a
lite ball peen hammer with these punches.
CENTER PUNCHES:
These punches have a 90º points and are used to produce wide
indentations that are used to guide drills to a specific position
during a hand positioned drilling operation.
For drills that are 1/4" or smaller, the drill can be started directly in the indentations. A centre or
spot drill will be used before using drills larger than 1/4".
LETTER AND NUMBER PUNCHES:
These punches are mostly used to identify parts. It is crucial to

practice with these punches since poor lettering will deter a
client's attention and make dimensionally perfect parts
unacceptable. Always remember that precision can be measured
but perception is just as important since many clients depend on a part's appearance to determine
its acceptability. Weird but true!
N.B. It is important to never punch parts that have been hardened, plated or anodized.
DRIFT PUNCHES:
These cylindrical punches have flat ends and are

used for extracting dowel pins, split pins and
stops that are assembled using light press fits.
It is important to use many small crisp blows from
a lite weight ball peen hammer (same principal as
Page 36
an impact wrench) rather than massive blows from heavier ones. When pins cannot be extracted
with a reasonable force, penetrating oils, presses, heat or pullers should be preferred.
COLD CHISELS:
A cold chisel is a punch that is designed for cutting metal.

In pre milling machine days, these tools were used to cut
sheet metals as well as surfacing and grooving parts.
Today, chisels are mostly used to behead screws or
remove rusted nuts that cannot be removed by
conventional means. They are also used for swaging
tongues for tongue and groove assembly.
N.B. The end that comes in contact with the hammer will
gradually mushroom. It is imperative to remove any
mushrooming with a grinder. It is recommended to use a
heavy leather glove or a plastic hand guard when using a
chisel since your hands are not hammer proof.
4-E: FILES
Files are unidirectional chip producing
cutting tools! They are not abrasives and
cannot cut on the back stroke.
There exist a multitude of different
shapes of files ( flat, half round, knife
edge, round, rat tale, rifler .....) since the
file should conform to the shape of the
surface that will be produced.
A file's surface is made up of a large number of teeth. These teeth incorporate a cutting surface
and cutting lips that will engage with the part and produce chips by plastic deformation. Files are
unidirectional cutting tools, they cut from the tip of the file to the handle and no pressure should
be applied on the backstroke.
N.B. File are made from a very brittle tool steel and will shatter
if abused. This is very dangerous for your eyes.
Never use a file as a pry bar!
Never use a file that does not have a proper handle
Do not hit the file against a hard surface to clean it! Always use a file card.
Page 37
FILE TOOTH FORMS:
The choice of a file shape is quite simple. It must conform to the surface of the part being
produced. However the choice of the file's tooth form is much more complex.
Since this is an introductory course, we will only look at single cut and double cut files.
SINGLE CUT FILES have many parallel rows

of teeth that are inclined by about thirty degrees
from the sides of the file. This tooth form is
generally used for finishing operations since
their lateral and progressive cutting actions
create long chips that tend to produce a better
surface finish. This tooth form is also preferred
when filing hard materials (not more than 50Rc).
This tooth form is however not suited for rapid
metal removal.
N.B. Some single cut files have teeth that are

inclined at sixty degrees from the sides of the
files. These files are specifically used for filing
on the lathe. These files are difficult to control
for bench work because of the lateral thrust that
comes with such a steep tooth angle. However
when filing on the lathe, the steep tooth angle
clears the chips better and reduce material
incrustation.
DOUBLE CUT FILES have diamond shaped

teeth that are the result of two intersecting
rows of teeth similar to the single cut ones.
This tooth form is generally used for roughing
cut since the smaller contact area permits
better penetration so they can take deeper cuts.
The space between the teeth also permits for
more chip clearance which is helpful when
filing large surfaces.
TOOTH PITCH:
The size of a file's teeth is a very important when choosing a file. Three factors must be
considered when selecting a tooth size.
Page 38
#1: The type of work can vary. A job that entails the removal of a lot of material requires
the use of large teeth (roughing). A job that entails the removal of a small amount of material
calls for the use of small teeth (finishing).
N.B. In order to work efficiently it is normal to use several tooth pitches to complete a job (from
roughing to finishing).
#2: La The hardness of the material affects the selection of a tooth pitch. It is best to
choose small teeth for hard materials and large teeth for soft materials.
#3: The size of the filed surface also affects tooth size. Large teeth should be used when
filing large surfaces since better chip clearance is required (the chips must be stored in the file
from the tooth's engagement with the part until the tooth exits the other side.
N.B. As you can see, the factors that guide tooth pitch selection are often contradictory. There is
no pitch size that will remove material efficiently from a large surfaced hard part. Choosing the
proper file for a job requires compromise.
FILING TECHNIQUES:
There are three basic filing techniques. The most popular is the "filing is easy" technique. This
technique requires no training and rarely gives good results. The two other techniques are draw
filing (finishing) and cross filing (roughing).

also
OILY FILES?
4-F: HACK SAWS
We all know that saws are made to cut
things. It is however important to remember
that they do not cut parts in two, they cut
them in three, the two parts that result from
the removal of the third (the chips). Always
take into consideration the kerf (width of
cut) when calculating the amount of stock required for a job.
There are three basic types of hacksaw blades.

Page 39
#1: High carbon steel blades are low quality blades generally reserved for sawing mild
metals such as brass, copper, aluminium, mild steel ...
#2: Bi-metal blades have high speed steel teeth welded to a hardened and drawn medium
carbon steel body. These composite blades have hard and wear resistant teeth and flexible and
forgiving (will not break easily when flexed) blade bodies. The are mostly used to cut tougher
and harder (45 Rc max.) material such as hardened medium carbon steels, stainless steels,
bronzes ... These blade are however two to three times more expensive than the plain high carbon
steel ones.
#3: Precision hacksaw blades are integrally constituted of high speed steel and are thicker
than regular blades and do not have any blade set (the teeth are the same width as the blades
body). This structure makes for a very stable blades that track very accurately and that produce
dimensionally accurate kerfs (width of slot). However, these blades are very expensive and quite
easy to break. They are mostly used for accurate grooving operations and are not recommended
for general sawing.
BLADE PITCH:
Blade pitch is defined as the number of teeth per inch

of blade. A #18 blade (the go to general purpose
pitch) has 18 teeth per inch. The higher the number,
the smaller the teeth.
Two factors are to be considered when selecting the

proper blade pitch for a job.
#1: The thickness of the part to be cut affects the choice of blade pitch since it defines
the quantity of material that will be stored between the teeth from the start to the end of a single
cut stroke. The thicker the part, the bigger the teeth!
When the part is thin, it is important to choose a blade pitch that ensures that at least two
teeth are in contact with the blade at all times . This ensures that the part cannot fit
between two teeth, since this could sheer teeth off of the blade.
#2: The parts hardness also affects the selection of blade pitch. The tooth's size selection is
inversely proportional to the part hardness. The harder that part, the smaller the teeth .
Page 40
BLADE SET:
The blade set is responsible for the difference

between the width of the blade's
body and the width of the kerf (slot) that it
produces. In order to prevent the blade from
snagging (binding in the kerf) the teeth are
offset from side to side in order to cut a little
wider than the blade's body. Blade offset
reduces friction but makes the blade difficult to control and keep cutting straight. This is why
precision hacksaw blades have no offset. It is the difference between the blade set and body
height that defines the smallest possible radius that can be produced with a given blade.
A FEW SUGGESTIONS:
- #18 bi-metal blades are the general purpose blades preferred for most jobs.
- It is important to use the full length of the blade when cutting.
- Hack sawing should not require a lot of effort. Let the blade cut, pushing or forcing it
will reduce blade life and will make it very hard to cut straight.
- General use hacksaw blades are designed for straight or slight radius cuts. For
pronounced curves use a cope or scroll saw.
- Cutting speed:
Softer metals: Two blade lengths per second.
Harder metals: One blade length per second.
- Saw only with your arms, your body should not move.
- Always cut vertically. For angular cuts, reposition the part to permit vertical cutting.
- Never insert a new blade in the kerf produced by a worn blade.
DRILL POINT GAUGE PART2

Page 41
4-G: TAPS AND DIES
Taps (internal threads) and dies (external threads) are thread
cutting tools. Some are designed for bench work and others for
use on machine tools. Although not covered here, threads can
also be produced by rolling, by single lip lathe cutting and by grinding.
Before describing these tools, it would be good to define what threads are and
their basic terminology.
WHAT IS A THREAD?:
A thread is a helical groove of constant cross section on the outer surface of a cylinder (external
thread) or on the inner surface of a bore (internal thread). Threads can be used for assembling
parts, for accurate movement, for measuring and as a force multiplier (mechanical advantage).
THREAD FORMS:
There are several different thread forms Since this is an introductory course, we will limit
ourselves to the three basic (most common) forms: Unified (imperial), ISO (metric) and Acme
(Wile E Coyote).
Unified and ISO threads have 60 degree V grooves and are generally used for assembly. They
can also be used for accurate measurement (as is the case for micrometers).
ACME threads have 29 degree V grooves and are generally used for accurate movement or for
mechanical advantage and quite often for both (lead screw on milling machine table).
THREAD TERMINOLOGY
- THE MAJOR DIAMETER (sometimes

referred to as the outside diameter) is
the largest diameter of an external or
internal thread.
- THE NOMINAL DIAMETER

"represents" the major diameter when
expressed as the closest (larger)
fractional dimension for imperial
threads or closest (larger) millimetre
for metric threads. It is not the actual dimension of the outside diameter
Page 42
but rather a simplified way of presenting the thread. It would be awkward
to describe a 1/2"-13 2A UNC thread as a 0.4985" to 0.4822"-13 UNC
thread. It is much simpler to just express the OD as 1/2" since the actual
major diameter varies depending on the class of fit required.
- THE MINOR DIAMETER (sometimes referred to as the root diameter) is the
smallest diameter of an external or internal thread.
- THE PITCH DIAMETER "represents" an imaginary cylinder that passes
through the midpoint of the threads depth. The pitch diameter is used for
calculating the measurement over the wires for accurate thread production.
- THE PITCH of a thread is the distance that the thread travels axially in one full
turn. Be aware that the pitch is not the number of threads per inch.
- THE THREAD ROOT is the bottom of the V groove. For internal threads the
root is on the major diameter and for external threads the root is on the
minor diameter.
- THE CREST is the top of the V groove. Fort internal threads the crest is on the
minor diameter and for external threads the crest is on the major diameter.
-THE DEPTH OF THREAD is the radial distance that separates the root from
the crest of a thread.
- THE HELIX ANGLE ( often referred to as the lead angle) is the angle of the
thread groove in relation to the thread's axis. A coarse pitch thread (large
thread) has a high helix angle and a fine pitch thread has a low helix angle.
THREAD NOMENCLATURE:
Unified threads smaller than 1/4" dia. are described in this manner:
#8 - 36 UNF
← ↓ →
Nominal code Number of Identification
(# x.013)+.060 threads per of thread form
inch and series
Unified threads of 1/4" dia. or larger are described in this manner:
1/4 - 20 UNC
← ↓ →
Nominal dia. Number of Identification
diameter threads per of thread form
inch and series
Page 43
ISO threads are described in this manner:
M 10 X 1.5
← ↓ →
Metric Nominal dia pitch
N.B. Many other codes (describing thread tolerance, thread direction ...) can be added to the
above descriptions. For more info on threads and threading, watch:
BENCH WORK PART 4
also
BENCH WORK PART 5
also
THE 1-2-3 BLOCK PROJECT PART 2
also
TAPPING OILS?
also
MORE TAPPING STUFF
also
MACHINE SHOP Q & A PART 1
also
HOW MACHINE THREADS WORK PART 1
also
HOW MACHINE THREADS WORK PART 2
TYPES OF TAPS:
Since there are many types of tapped holes, it is normal to expect that there are several types of
Page 44
taps of a same thread size.
The material being taped, the type of hole, the depth of thread required and the number of holes
to tap are the factors that influence the type of tap chosen. The basic types of taps are:
#1: Straight flute taps are hand taps and they are the go to taps in the shop. They are less
expensive than the other types of taps but they are also less productive. Their straight flutes do
not extract the chips produced and this will eventually clog the flutes. That is why these taps
must be backed out of the hole regularly in order to clear the chips. In order to be able to tap
different types of holes, hand taps are available in three different geometries:
Taper (or starter) taps are used to start a

thread in a deep hole or to produce a full
thread in a through hole in thin material.
Plug (or intermediate) taps are used to

continue a thread started with a taper tap or to
produce a full thread in a through hole in a part
of medium thickness.
Bottoming (or finishing) taps are used to

produce a full complete thread as close as
possible to the bottom of a hole.
#2: Helicalflute taps are machine taps (not

to be used by hand) that extract the chips produced
through the flutes. These production type taps are used to
produce threads in blind holes.
#3: Spiral tip taps are machine taps that push the chips
forward. They are used to produce threads in through holes.
#4: Relieved shank taps are used for tapping deep

holes. The shank on these taps will not stop the tap from
penetrating the part since it is smaller than the minor
diameter of the thread. In some cases shank extensions can
be used (for tapping very deep holes).
#5: Forming taps do not produce chips and do not have

Page 45
flutes, rather they deform the material in order to produce a thread. Formed threads are stronger
than cut threads but these taps are complex tools and should only be used by experienced
machinists using specialized equipment.
TAP DRILL SIZE:
In order to tap a hole, you must first drill the hole since the tap can only cut the thread. It is
important to know that it is impossible cut a full thread using a tap. It is usually recommended
(for most materials) to cut only 75% of a full thread (about a 5% reductions in strength). For
tough and difficult to tap materials it is possible to reduce thread height to 60% of a full thread.
This will have a greater impact on the strength of the thread but hey! IT'S BETTER THAN
BRERAKING A TAP!
Only the thread roots are affected by this height reduction since it is the result of a hole that is
larger than the minor diameter (root diameter) of the thread.
The formula for calculating the tap drill size for Unified (imperial) threads (75%) is:
nominal diameter - ( 1 ÷ number of threads per inch)
Example:
1/2" - 13 UNC
Calculation: 0.5" - (1/13)
Answer: 0.423"
The formula for calculating the tap drill size for ISO METRIC threads (75%) is:
nominal diameter - thread pitch
Example: M 10 X 1.5
Calculation: 10 - 1.5
Answer: 8.5 mm
SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR TAPPING:
Taps are very brittle cutting tools. It is very important to avoid breaking the tap in the hole since
this could compromise the part being produced but the tap is easy to break so what can you do?
Page 46
#1: Never use a worn (even slightly) tap or a tap with one or more chipped teeth. Inspect all
taps before use, even the new ones!
#2: It is crucial to tap parallel to the axis of the hole.
#3: Use the proper cutting oil for different materials being tapped.
STEEL AND BRONZE: Use a good quality commercial cutting oil! Not
a lubricating oil
CAST IRON: White cast iron cannot be tapped. Grey cast iron is best tapped dry
(no liquid or oil). Malleable cast iron is treated the same as
mild steel.
ALUMINUM: Light degreasing liquid such as Varsol, kerosene, WD40, a 50/50

mix of dish soap and water or a commercial water based cutting
fluid (there is a huge difference between a cutting fluid and a
cutting oil).
COPPER AND LEAD: Lard, undiluted dish soap, thick way oil, paraffin.
BRASS: Hard brass should be tapped dry, half hard brass should be treated like
mild steel and soft brass should be treated like copper.
#4: In order to break and extract the chips when using straight flute taps it is important to
back the tap out and clean it regularly.
#5: Since they only cut on one or two teeth, finishing (or bottoming) taps should only be used
for finishing the bottom of a blind hole (after having used the starter and plug taps).
TYPES OF THREADING DIES:
Dies are used to cut external threads. There are three main types of threading dies.
SOLID THREADING DIES are not adjustable and are

generally used to chase existing or damaged class 2 threads.
Page 47
SPLIT DIES are slightly adjustable and are used to cut class 1, 2
or 3 threads in readily machinable material. They are also often used
to finish threads roughed out on the lathe in tough materials. The
slight adjustment permits one roughing and one finishing cut.
TWO PIECE ADJUSTABLE DIES (or adjustable dies) are used

for progressive cuts in tough materials or for large (deep) threads. Since the
two die halves are adjustable, several roughing passes can be taken, thus
reducing the force required for each pass and also reducing the possibility
of tearing the thread. They can also be used to rough out threads that will
be finished with a solid or split die.
PART DIAMETER FOR DIE THREADING:
Since it is difficult to cut full threads we usually reduce the major diameter of the part being
threaded to permit proper crest clearance and avoid seizing the die on the part.
The formula for calculating part diameter for die threading is:
Nominal diameter - (pitch ÷ 7.5)
Metric example:
Thread: M 10 X 1.5
Calculation: 10mm - (1.5 ÷ 7.5)
Answer: 9.8 mm
Imperial example:
Page 48
Thread: 1/2 - 13 UNC
Calculation: 0.5" - ((1/13) ÷ 7.5)
Answer: 0.489"
SECTION 5: BLUEPRINT READING

It is crucial that you understand how to read a blueprint. The part being produced will only be
acceptable if it conforms to its drawing! Take the time to watch these videos. They aren't exiting,
BUT THEY ARE VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!!
BLUEPRINT READING PART 1

also
also
also
also
STANDARD FITS 101, INCH & METRIC
SECTION 6: LAYOUT WORK

6-A: INTRODUCTION
Layout is a preparatory operation during which lines are scribed on the surface of a part in order
to accurately define its shape or the limits of a machining operation.
For novice machinists, layout work helps to make the transition from a 2D drawing to a 3D part.
For experienced machinists, a layout will speed up the rough machining process and help avoid
mistakes.
Example: It is rare for a machinist to miss a dimension by a small amount. An
accurate layout gives you something to shoot for. In other words, machine
until you get close to the line and then pay attention to the DRO or the
graduated collars of the machine.
It is important to layout your part attentively. Check your measurements twice since a good
Page 49
layout could help you avoid an error but a bad layout will inevitably scrap the part.
BENCH WORK PART 6, LAYOUT WORK

ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
TAP BLOCK PART 4
ALSO
V-BLOCK PART 6
6-B: BENCHWORK LAYOUTS
Bench work layouts techniques are used to define the limits of a part when it will be produced
using low precision tools such as hacksaws, files, drill presses ... .
This layout technique is usually used for parts having a tolerance of +- .010" (0,2 mm) or more.
Bench work layouts are rapidly done but require a lot of attention and dexterity.
The basic bench work layout tools are:
#1: Scriber: Finely pointed tool made of hardened

steel or carbide that is used to produce fine lines
of the surface of a part.
#2: Layout blue: A Prussian blue based die (not paint)

applied very thinly on the surface of a clean part before
layout in order to accentuate the scribed lines and make
them more visible.
To avoid flaking and in order to produce fine and

accurate lines it is important to apply only the finest of
coats and to do so on a very clean (degreased) surface.
Page 50
#3: Adjustable square: Also known as a

combination set is a very versatile tool used to
guide the scriber during layout.
The combination set is made up of four parts. A

steel rule on which is mounted the square head
(45°and 90°), a protractor head (360° adjustable)
and a centre head.
#4: Dividers: These adjustable scribers are used to layout arcs

and circles from a central point that is usually produced
with a prick punch.
NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO START THE

DRILL POINT GAUGE PROJECT!!!
DOWNLOAD THE BLUEPRINTS FOR ALL MY

PROJECTS
THEN FOLLOW THE VIDEOS DESCRIBING HOW TO GO
ABOUT PRODUCING THE TOOL AS YOU PROGRESS
STEP BY STEP THROUGH THE PROJECT

ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
Page 51
6-C: PRECISION LAYOUTS
Precision layouts are used to define the limits of a machining operation when the part will be
produced on a machine tool other than a drill press.
This layout technique is used to produce parts that have a tolerance of +- .003" (0,04 mm) or
more.
The most common precision layout tools are:

#1: The surface plate is used as a very accurate reference
surface from which accurate layout or measurement can
be performed.
#2: The height gauge is, once equipped with a scribe point, used to
produce very accurate layout lines by direct measurement since the
height gauge has an accurate readable scale (vernier, dial or digital).
#3: The surface gauge is, thanks to its accurate base, just as stable as
the height gauge but it functions by comparative measurement or by
height transfer.
#4: The sine bar is a very delicate instrument used with gauge
blocks to position parts at an accurate angle to a surface plate.
N.B. The cylindrical supports are very important and must be

treated with great care. Never slide a sine bar on a surface plate
and when not in use it should be laid on its side.
#5: Angle plates are used to position parts vertical to the surface
plate. Parts can be mounted on angle plates in order to position
them and stabilize them for layout work... and much more.
#6: V-blocks are used to stabilize round or square parts for layout
work and much more. They can be used to hold parts
horizontally or vertically in relation to the surface plate.
Page 52
SECTION 7: CHIP PRODUCTION BY

PLASTIC DEFORMATION
7-A: INTRODUCTION
Chip production is at the base of most machining operations. If someone wants to understand
machining, they must understand the basic principals of chip production. It is this understanding
that will guide the machinist when choosing such variables as feed, depth of cut, tool geometry,
cutting speed, setup rigidity and choice of cutting fluid.
It is very important to understand that chip production is limited to materials

that have a certain amount of resistance to compression and that are
malleable. If a material is not malleable, or has very little resistance in
compression, it cannot be machined by chip production.
ACCOMPANYING VIDEOS FOR CHIP FORMATION:
CHIPS, SPEEDS AND FEEDS PART 1

ALSO
CHIPS, SPEEDS AND FEEDS PART 2
ALSO
CUTTING FLUIDS 101
7-B: THE TWO PHASES OF CHIP PRODUCTION

PHASE 1: PENETRATION AND
COMPRESSION
We call penetration the instant when the tool

engages with the part. Penetration is immediately
followed by the loading which is in fact a very
violent collision between the tool and the part. Tool
fractures often occur during this phase.
The penetration and loading create an

accumulation of compressed material that
Page 53
accumulates just ahead of the tool. The size of this compression zone varies proportionately to
the part's malleability. The mechanical effort required to deform the material is concentrated as
heat in the material accumulated, the more material you compress, the hotter it gets.
PHASE 2: FORMATION AND SEPERATION OF THE CHIP
The chip is formed in a way that resembles snow

being ploughed. The material accumulated and
heated by the tool's progression becomes more
fluid and since it has nowhere else to go, it starts
to slide up the face of the tool.
The chip separation however is the result of a

difference of surface tension between both
surfaces of the chip. A properly formed chip has
two surfaces, one that is in tension and one that is
in extension. The curved shape of a properly
formed chip is the result of these different forces
and it is these forces that separate the chip from
the tool.
The interior surface of the chip results from the

compression of material since it never comes in contact with the tool. It is the least relaxed
surface of the chip and that means that it pulls on itself (tension). The interior surface of the chip
has a rough and a mat finish and an internally curved surface.
The exterior surface of the chip is the result of the flowing (sliding) of the chip up the face of
the tool. It is on this surface that is concentrated most of the heat since it has endured the greatest
deformation. This intense heat relaxes the tensions (in heat treatment this is called normalizing)
caused by the material's compression. The exterior surface of the chip has a clean and shiny
appearance and an externally curved surface.
N.B. It is important to know how chips are formed, but it is even more important to understand
what variables must be controlled in order to obtain the perfect chip. After all, chip production is
a fight between the tool and the part. It is important to control the variables in order to ensure that
the tool wins!
7-C: THE VARIABLES

The variables that affect chip formation are: Cutting speed (varies with type of material), tool
feed, depth of cut, tool geometry, set up rigidity and the choice of cutting fluid.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO UNDERSTAND HOW EACH VARIALBLE AFFECTS
THE CUTTING ACTION!!!
Page 54
#1: A material's cutting speed is the speed at which the tool, when cutting, will remove a
maximum of material (volume) with a minimum of wear (of the tool).
In the imperial system (inch) the cutting speed of a material is defined in feet per
minute and in the metric system it is defined as meters per minute.
It is important to know that the cutting speeds that the materials manufacturer provides
represent a maximum that presupposes that all the other variables are perfectly controlled.
It is rare for a home machinist to perform a cut at the maximum speed and it is important
to never cut any faster than that speed. Cutting slower than the maximum cutting speed is
less productive but it will not melt your tool.
Cutting speed affects chip formation in this way:
#2: Feed on the mill is defined as the distance that the table would move in one minute (feet
per minute or meters per minute). On the lathe feed is define as the distance that the tool
progresses along the part in one turn (inches per revolution or meters per revolution).
Feed determines the width of a chip. For the same cutting speed, a rapid feed will produce
a bigger (wider) chip and a slower feed will produce a smaller one.
Feed affects chip formation in this way:
N.B. The feed is the most important variable for surface finish (but not the only one).
Page 55
#3: The depth of cut has a similar effect on chip formation as the feed. The main difference
is that the depth of cut controls the length of cutting lip engagement with the part. Since
both variables affect the volume of material removed, it is a good practice to choose the
feed first (in order to obtain the proper surface finish) and then adjust the depth of cut for
maximum metal removal (roughing) or proper dimension (finishing). Depth of cut has a
greater effect on cutting lip engagement comparatively to feed so volume of material
removed per minute (productivity) is generally controlled by the depth of cut.
#4: Tool geometry affects chip production in multiple ways. For this introductory course we
will only consider the effect of the cutting surface angle (angle of attack) of the tool.
The cutting surface angle affects chip formation in this way:
#5: The rigidity of the tool, of the setup, of the machine and of the part being machined are
responsible for the amount of deflection during chip production.
There is always some deflection and when well controlled it isn't a problem but an
excessive amount of deflection will affect the part's dimensions and geometry as well as
the surface finish (since tool deflection is often responsible for vibration).
7-D: CALCULATING THE PROPER R.P.M.
THE VARIABLES:
C.S.: Cutting speed is the optimal linear speed for cutting a given material. This
speed is provided by the material's manufacturer or can be found in the
MACHINERY'S HANDBOOK. In the imperial system the speed is expressed in
FEET/MINUTE and metric system speeds are expressed in METERS/MINUTE.
Since the speed is given as a linear displacement and that most cutting operations
use rotary motion, we need a way of changing the linear speed (displacement) to
rotary speed (displacement).
Page 56
DIAMETER: In the formulas that we are using, the diameter is the diameter of what turns
during the cut. For drilling and milling it is the diameter of the tool that is used and for turning it
is the diameter of the part being turned.
THE FORMULAS:
The formulas for calculating the R.P.M. for high speed steel tools are:
Imperial: CS X 4
dia.
Metric: CS X 300
dia.
N.B. For carbide cutters, the calculated rpm should multiplied by four.
MOST COMMON CUTTING SPEEDS (CS) USED IN THE HOME SHOP:
FEET PER MINUTE METERS PER MINUTE

Steels: low carbon 100 Fm 30 Mm
medium carbon (unhardened): 70 Fm 23 Mm
high carbon (unhardened): 50 Fm 16 Mm
Aluminium: 300 Fm 130 Mm
Brass: 200 Fm 65 Mm
Bronze: 80 Fm 26 Mm
WARNING: THE CALCULATED RPM IS A MAXIMUM. It is preferable to start

slower and gradually work your way up to the maximum speed as you
adjust your cut . If all the variables are not well controlled you will not cut
at maximum speed! Since it is sometimes impossible to fine tune all the
variables, it is common to run slower than the maximum RPM.
For examples of cutting speed calculation watch the accompanying

videos suggested at the beginning of this section
Page 57
POSITIONNING HAMMER PROJECT!!!
Machine tools required: Drill press, lathe.
HAMMER HANDLE PART 1

ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
4 JAW CHUCK CENTERING
ALSO
HAMMER HEAD
ALSO
HAMMER'S PLUG & TIPS

1-2-3 BLOCK PROJECT!!!
Machine tools required: Drill press, vertical
milling machine, surface grinder.

ALSO
ALSO
Page 58
SECTION 8: MATERIALS AND METALLURGY
For most beginners, what counts is cutting. We took some time to
look at blueprint reading because if we can't define what we have
to attain as far as precision and form goes, we can't produce the
part. The same logic applies to materials. Understanding what we
are cutting is very important if you wish to produce accurate parts
that have proper surface finishes. Here are some videos that will help you
anticipate what you are up against when machining most materials. Many hobby
machinists don't spend a lot of time thinking about the materials they are cutting,
and that will cause problems. Remember that any project starts with a chunk of
material. What that chunk is will define what you can do to it.
YOU ARE NOT THE BOSS!

THE MATERIAL IS!!!
MATERIALS PART 1
ALSO
MATERIALS PART 2
ALSO
MATERIALS PART 3
ALSO
MATERIALS PART 4
ALSO
INTRODUCTION TO FERROUS METALS

ALSO
RECOGNIZING STEEL ALLOYS, HOME TESTS &TRICKS
ALSO
MATERIALS, TESTING 101

ALSO
HEAT TREATMENT OF STEELS PART 1

ALSO
HEAT TREATMENT OF STEELS PART 2

ALSO
INJECTION MOLDING 101

Page 59
SECTION 9: SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS
You may not want to read this but planning the
sequence of operations to perform on a part is almost
as important as the machining itself! And it is way
more boring. It is not rare for novice machinists to cut
themselves into a corner. In other words, performing
certain operations before others is crucial in order to
ensure that there is material left to hold, that the hole
is not too large for the thread, that you have and
maintain proper reference surfaces all through the
parts productions, that.....
When you watch one of my project videos, you may

notice that nothing is done for no reason and that I am
following a clear and well though out path that will
maximize my chances for success. Here is how you
can go about planning a sequence of operations.
SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS PART 1

ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
V-BLOCK PART 1
ALSO
SCREW JACK PART 1
SECTION 10: MACHINE TOOLS & MACHINING

In this section we will look at different machine tools and how to use them. This
part of the online course will be covered by project and theory videos. So have
Page 60
fun and watch away but pace yourself and be wary of video overdose. This is by
far the longest section so remember, the objective is to learn (not to complete as
fast as possible) so take your time and don't hesitate to watch the videos more than
once. Also take the time to look at the comments, they often contain viewer input
or answers for common questions. P.S. Some videos appear in more than one type
of machine tool video list since most projects require the use of multiple machine
tools to complete.
10-A: DRILL PRESS

ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
DRILL BITS FOR METAL , HOW THEY WORK!
ALSO
HOW TO SHARPEN DRILLS, OLD SCHOOL
ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
TAP BLOCK PART 4
ALSO
Page 61
TAP BLOCK PART 5
ALSO
V-BLOCK PART 5
10-B: LATHE
ALSO
ALSO
ALSO
LATHE CHUCKS 101 PART 1
ALSO
LATHE CHUCKS 101 PART 2
ALSO
POSITIONING LATHE TOOL CUTTING EDGES
ALSO
FOUR JAW CHUCK CENTERING
ALSO
HAMMER HEAD
ALSO
HAMMER PLUG & TIPS
ALSO
PROJECTING HARD TO GET TO SURFACES
ALSO
THREADING ON THE LATHE
Page 62
ALSO
HOW MACHINE THREADS WORK
ALSO
EFFECT OF PLUNGE ANGLE ON THREAD CUTTING
ALSO
TURNING A HALF BALL!
ALSO
MACHINING A SPHERE!
ALSO
SCREW JACK PART 1
ALSO
SCREW JACK PART 2
ALSO
SCREW JACK PART 3
ALSO
SCREW JACK PART 4
ALSO
SCREW JACK PART 5
ALSO
SCREW JACK PART 6
ALSO
HOW TO OFFSET FOR A SMALL CRANK?
ALSO
MACHINING A CROWNED PULLEY
Page 63
10- C: MILLING MACHINE

ALSO
ALSO
TRUING A MILLING MACHINE VICE
ALSO
SQUARING UP A BLOCK
ALSO
HEAD ALIGNMENT AND EDGE FINDING
ALSO
POSITIONING HOLES WITHOUT A READOUT
ALSO
POSITIONING PARTS USING ISOSTATICS
ALSO
SPUR GEARS & DIVIDING HEADS
ALSO
POCKET MILLING BY COORDINATES
ALSO
ROUND COLUMN MILL PART 1
ALSO
ROUND COLUMN MILL PART 2
ALSO
ROUND COLUMN MILL MODIFICATIONS
ALSO
V-BLOCK PART 4
Page 64
ALSO
V-BLOCK PART 5
ALSO
V-BLOCK PART 6
ALSO
V-BLOCK PART 7
ALSO
TAP BLOCK PART 1
ALSO
TAP BLOCK PART 2
ALSO
TAP BLOCK PART 3
ALSO
PRECISE HOLE CIRCLES WITHOUT A READOUT
10- D: SHAPER
V-BLOCK PART 2
ALSO
V-BLOCK PART 3
10- E: GRINDERS
INTRODUCTION TO THE BENCH GRINDER

ALSO
GRINDING WHEEL BALANCING & INSTALLATION
Page 65
ALSO
GRINDING WHEELS AND CHATTER
ALSO
V-BLOCK PART 8
ALSO
TAP BLOCK PART 6
ALSO
ALSO
CYLINDRICAL GRINDING 101
10- F: BAND SAWS
V-BLOCK PART 7
ALSO
BAND SAW BLADE WELDING
I hope you had fun and that these notes and the accompanying videos were
helpful. If you wish to, you can download (AVAILABLE IN NOVEMBER
2018) the test sheets from my web page:
THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM
and return your completed sheets to me at
THATLAZYMACHINIST@GMAIL.COM
and I will send you (after evaluation) a personalized certificate for
having completed the theory portion of this online course.
Marc L'Ecuyer
that lazy machinist
Page 66

Thatlazymachinist

Uploaded by

Document Informationclick to expand document information

Copyright:

Available Formats

Thatlazymachinist

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Thatlazymachinist

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Page 1

Hi and welcome to my free online

This is version 002

MACHINE SHOP LESSON 1, INTRODUCTION

You can find all of my videos at

To make or finish a part that must be

A space in which is installed a number of machine tools, bench work tools,

1-B: WHAT JUSTIFIES MACHINING?

#1: RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT

Prototype development and instrument making

Although used less and less, manual

It is important to remember that mass producing parts requires specialized tooling

#3: FINISHING OPERATIONS (SECONDARY OPERATIONS)

Finishing operations include all the machining operations

#4: REPAIR AND MAINTENANCE WORK

1-C: ATTITUDES AND APTITUDES

1-D: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO SUCCEED!

#2: SKETCHING AND BLUEPRINT READING

A machinist must be able to sketch and must know

In order to perform properly in the shop, a

1-E: A FEW SUGGESTIONS!

#3: It is impossible to produce accurate parts without accurate measurements.

MACHINE SHOP LESSON 2, SAFETY PART 1

Over protection can sometimes have perverse effects.

2.3: Activate the emergency stop and walk away!!!

#4: Avoid quick movements, get

#5: Work standing up and avoid

#6: Keep your work area clean,

#16: Always wear eye protection in the shop!

#18: Clothing in the shop should conform to these requirements:

2-C: MOVING HEAVY OBJECTS

#1: Be conservative and realistic when evaluating an objects weight.

2-D: SOME SPECIFIC DANGERS

#1: The tool rests, the side guards, the

#2: The grinding wheel you use must

#3: Avoid grinding non ferrous

NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO WATCH FROM A

INTRODUCTION TO THE BENCH GRINDER, GRINDING 101

#1: Long hair can get entangled in the spindle. This

#2: We all know that we must never leave a key in a

#3: If your drill press is not equipped with a rack and

Thin parts: Sandwich thin parts between thicker parts of a similar

#7: A drill press is not a milling machine or a router.

#1: Adjust the height of the blade guard for

#2: When pushing on a part keep your feet

NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO WATCH FROM A

#1: Never leave a chuck key in a chuck!

#2: Never pull on or pick up chips with your

#3: A part that is held in a chuck but that is

NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO WATCH FROM A

013 HAMMER HANDLE PART 1, LATHE 101

#1: Milling cutters and fingers aren't made to live together.

#2: Always verify that the mills rotational direction is set

NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO WATCH FROM A

#1: Dress the grinding wheel regularly.

#2: Verify before starting the spindle that the

#3: A part that is higher than it is wide in any

#4: Thin parts do not hold well on magnetic