- CHAM
Av. Berna 26 | 1069-061 Lisboa | Portugal
Edifício ID - Gabinete 2.19
Research Interests: Humanities and Art
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Textiles, Trade & Taste: Portugal and the World (TTT) is a project that aspires to bring new synergies to the field of textile studies by promoting different connections and interdisciplinary approaches involving art history,... more
Textiles, Trade & Taste: Portugal and the World (TTT) is a project that aspires to bring new synergies to the field of textile studies by promoting different connections and interdisciplinary approaches involving art history, materials science, and conservation. The TTT research network is based at the Center for Humanities in the School of Social Sciences and Humanities at the Universidade NOVA de Lisboa and organizes workshops, conferences, tours, and lectures in museums and research institutions. The network’s artistic and historical research has ranged from collating archival material to stylistic and iconographic studies, with the aim of placing textile objects in their historical, artistic, technological, and sociocultural contexts. Chemical analysis and characterization of dyes, textile fibers, and precious metal threads have provided important evidence for identifying the origins of raw materials and finished textiles, and for developing improved conservation treatments for their preservation for future generations. Recent research has examined the global circulation of dyes in the early modern period, especially reds, and also reconstructed the production and consumption of Indian, Chinese, and Portuguese embroideries and Islamic carpets. In 2011, TTT’s work led to the classification of three “Salting” carpets as national treasures in Portugal. The team members have collaborated with national and international museums, including Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga and Calouste Gulbenkian Museum (Lisbon), as well as Abegg-Stiftung (Riggisberg), The Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York), Musée des Tissus, (Lyon), Museum für Islamische Kunst (Berlin), Museum für angewandte Kunst (MAK) (Vienna), Rietberg Museum (Zürich), Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam), George Washington University Museum and The Textile Museum (Washington, D.C.), National Gallery of Art (Washington, D.C.), and Victoria and Albert Museum (London). The team’s art historians contributed to the platform “Museum With No Frontiers” to develop the online exhibition Discover Carpet Art involving Portuguese museums. TTT’s scientists have strong links with the Freer Gallery of Art and Arthur M. Sackler Gallery (National Museum of Asian Art, Washington, D.C.), University of Zaragoza (Spain), Rijksdienst voor het Cultureel Erfgoed (Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands, Amersfoort), and the University of Amsterdam. We have been encouraged by the positive response of the international community to the results of our initial research projects.
Research Interests: Taste and Textile Studies
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A obra colectiva Os Têxteis e a Casa de Bragança. Entre a Utilidade e o Deleite, tem como objectivo debater a dimensão plural que subjaz à utilização e conceptualização dos têxteis e, em simultâneo, como tais aspectos influíram na sua... more
A obra colectiva Os Têxteis e a Casa de Bragança. Entre a Utilidade e o Deleite, tem como objectivo debater a dimensão plural que subjaz à utilização e conceptualização dos têxteis e, em simultâneo, como tais aspectos influíram na sua afirmação como instrumentos de autoridade e poder ao serviço desta importante casa aristocrática, entretanto elevada a dinastia reinante.
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O presente texto constitui-se como uma primeira reflexão em torno dos têxteis chineses em Portugal e de algumas tipologias azulejares produzidas no século XVII com as quais se reconhece uma evidente afinidade
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No âmbito da nossa experiencia de docencia de disciplinas teoricas como a historia da arte e as artes decorativas no contexto de licenciaturas de caracter eminentemente pratico, como as de Design (nas suas vertentes de moda, equipamento,... more
No âmbito da nossa experiencia de docencia de disciplinas teoricas como a historia da arte e as artes decorativas no contexto de licenciaturas de caracter eminentemente pratico, como as de Design (nas suas vertentes de moda, equipamento, arquitectura de interiores e comunicacao), temo-nos vindo a aperceber de alguns aspectos que, ainda que nao constituam, de todo, novidade do ponto de vista de abordagem, se nos afiguram de grande relevância e por esse motivo aqui procuraremos brevemente expor.
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O presente texto propõe uma incursão pelo fenómeno da conversão e reutilização de artigos têxteis em Portugal na era de Quinhentos. A sua análise visa uma melhor compreensão do modo como os portugueses se relacionavam com este universo... more
O presente texto propõe uma incursão pelo fenómeno da conversão e reutilização de artigos têxteis em Portugal na era de Quinhentos. A sua análise visa uma melhor compreensão do modo como os portugueses se relacionavam com este universo material, assim como o que o mesmo então representava para os diferentes agrupamentos sociais – aspectos que se crêem relevantes ao melhor enquadramento deste domínio artístico na história do quotidiano e da arte portuguesa, mas que, de tão aparentemente banais, têm constituído um campo de investigação pouco explorado.
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A partir do projecto estratégico coletivo «Fronteiras» do CHAM, este encontro irá reunir um grupo de historiadores e historiadores da arte em workshop para discutir, analisar os limites da diplomacia das mulheres da realeza na Península... more
A partir do projecto estratégico coletivo «Fronteiras» do CHAM, este encontro irá reunir um grupo de historiadores e historiadores da arte em workshop para discutir, analisar os limites da diplomacia das mulheres da realeza na Península Ibérica e suas diferentes formas de mediação política e cultural do século XVI ao século XVII. As principais questões em debate serão as relacionadas com a mediação das mulheres e à assinatura da paz; a mediação das mulheres e as negociações de contratos matrimoniais para crianças e familiares que lhes trarão prestígio e como expandem suas redes, e como sua influência e poder aumentam com ela; a devoção é outra das questões centrais que queremos tratar como a parte mais profunda da identidade dessas mulheres que criará novas alianças e redes de apoio como uma forma de favorecer as devoções mais relacionadas à sua sensibilidade ou ao objetivo que desejam alcançar; e, finalmente, vamos olhar para questões de mediação cultural com a mediação cultural dessas mulheres da realeza ibérica e as trocas que acontecem graças a elas. O que queremos analisar é a mediação como uma maneira pela qual as mulheres da realeza trabalham para sua família e, ao mesmo tempo, para elas, como conhecedoras de várias realidades e faremos isso por meio de estudos de caso. Possíveis tópicos incluem, mas não estão limitados a • Mediação política, mediação da paz • Religião e agência, transferência devocional, transferências familiares • Mediação de políticas matrimoniais • Mediação de mulheres reais na cultura material
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This article focuses on the textile trade between Asia and Portugal in the early modern period. It highlights the pivotal role that Portugal played in the distribution of Asian manufactures across Europe during the sixteenth and... more
This article focuses on the textile trade between Asia and Portugal in the early modern period. It highlights the pivotal role that Portugal played in the distribution of Asian manufactures across Europe during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, before England and Holland set up large trading companies. It further examines the nature of Asian textile imports in Portugal, assessing their impact on consumption patterns, local manufacturing and shifts in taste.
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This paper focuses on textile decorations (armações) used to celebrate religious events in churches in Lisbon, during the 17th and 18th centuries. Several studies have looked at the ceremonies, but very little attention has been given to... more
This paper focuses on textile decorations (armações) used to celebrate religious events in churches in Lisbon, during the 17th and 18th centuries. Several studies have looked at the ceremonies, but very little attention has been given to the professionals who were responsible for the conception and execution of the ornamental programs. Through a careful analysis of the content of contemporary municipal regulations, it is possible to clarify the modus operandi of these decorators of the church and the scope and impact of their work.
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This chapter of the catalogue of the namesake exhibition held at the ROM in Toronto (Canada), deals how the "Pintados" (chintz) became a household name and were consumed in Europe thanks to the trade carried by the Portuguese since 1500,... more
This chapter of the catalogue of the namesake exhibition held at the ROM in Toronto (Canada), deals how the "Pintados" (chintz) became a household name and were consumed in Europe thanks to the trade carried by the Portuguese since 1500, and the impact its consumption had in Portugal and in her empire, particularly in Brazil.
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This article proposes to consider the extent to which Macao only served as a distribution centre or could it assume another type of responsibility as well, in terms of the manufacture of these products. This is a central issue, due to the... more
This article proposes to consider the extent to which Macao only served as a distribution centre or could it assume another type of responsibility as well, in terms of the manufacture of these products. This is a central issue, due to the many implications that it has in relation to the genesis of this production and its development in a dimension that is considered to be sufficiently expressive, but the clarification of which is overdue.
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Durante o período Moderno, as armações têxteis destacam-se na ornamentação das estruturas edificadas (perenes ou efémeras) que servem de palco às principais celebrações religiosas assinaladas em Portugal. Mas poucas têm sido as reflexões... more
Durante o período Moderno, as armações têxteis destacam-se na ornamentação das estruturas edificadas (perenes ou efémeras) que servem de palco às principais celebrações religiosas assinaladas em Portugal. Mas poucas têm sido as reflexões em torno das motivações que justificavam o investimento nesta estratégia. A resposta a questões como, de onde provinham os adereços têxteis, como se obtinham, e qual o significado que enformava não apenas os objectos têxteis mas o próprio processo inerente à sua obtenção revela-se muitíssimo importante à compreensão da relevância dos têxteis nestas ocasiões. Estes aspectos são analisados no presente capítulo, tomando como exemplo de estudo os empréstimos facultados pela Casa de Bragança.
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Resumo Tomando como estudo de caso a colecção de arte reunida por Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva, em exposição no Museu-Escola de Artes Decorativas Portuguesas, em Lisboa, no presente texto aborda-se a questão da percepção das ambiências... more
Resumo Tomando como estudo de caso a colecção de arte reunida por Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva, em exposição no Museu-Escola de Artes Decorativas Portuguesas, em Lisboa, no presente texto aborda-se a questão da percepção das ambiências domésticas aristocráticas portuguesas, em contextos que não os originais, a partir dos objectos têxteis expostos. Com esse objectivo será analisada a musealização desenvolvida em torno do património têxtil na encenação da câmara de dormir nos séculos XVII e XVIII. Palavras-chave: Artes Decorativas, têxteis, câmara de dormir, Museu de Artes Decorativas da FRESS. Abstract Taking as a case study the art collection gathered by Ricardo do Espírito Santo Silva, on display at the Museu-Escola de Artes Decorativas Portuguesas, in Lisbon, this text addresses the question of the perception of Portuguese aristocratic domestic ambiences by means of the exposed textile objects. With this aim I propose to analyze the musealization developed around the textile furnishings in the staging of the chamber in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
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This paper focuses on textile decorations (armações) used to celebrate religious events in churches in Lisbon, during the 17th and 18th centuries. Several studies have looked at the ceremonies, but very little attention has been given to... more
This paper focuses on textile decorations (armações) used to celebrate religious events in churches in Lisbon, during the 17th and 18th centuries. Several studies have looked at the ceremonies, but very little attention has been given to the professionals who were responsible for the conception and execution of the ornamental programs.
Through a careful analysis of the content of contemporary municipal regulations, it is possible to clarify the modus operandi of these decorators of the church and the scope and impact of their work.
Through a careful analysis of the content of contemporary municipal regulations, it is possible to clarify the modus operandi of these decorators of the church and the scope and impact of their work.
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The Museum of Sao Roque in Lisbon – formerly the Jesuit professed house in Portugal and the earliest Jesuit church in the Portuguese world founded immediately after the one of Rome – contains an important collection of oriental art... more
The Museum of Sao Roque in Lisbon – formerly the Jesuit professed house in Portugal and the earliest Jesuit church in the Portuguese world founded immediately after the one of Rome – contains an important collection of oriental art comprised of objects originating from India, the near East, China and Japan. Among these, the nucleus of Chinese textiles of the museum is paradigmatic with samples that are representative of Chinese embroideries, woven and painted for the Portuguese export market. Though limited to a small collection of pieces dated to between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, these are a good sample of a significant number of Chinese ornaments that subsist in Portuguese churches, as in the example of Sao Roque church.
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Disponible en Internet: <http://books.openedition.org/cidehus/19861>. ISBN: 9791036593086.
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A obra colectiva Os Têxteis e a Casa de Bragança. Entre a Utilidade e o Deleite, tem como objectivo debater a dimensão plural que subjaz à utilização e conceptualização dos têxteis e, em simultâneo, como tais aspectos influíram na sua... more
A obra colectiva Os Têxteis e a Casa de Bragança. Entre a Utilidade e o Deleite, tem como objectivo debater a dimensão plural que subjaz à utilização e conceptualização dos têxteis e, em simultâneo, como tais aspectos influíram na sua afirmação como instrumentos de autoridade e poder ao serviço desta importante casa aristocrática, entretanto elevada a dinastia reinante.
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publ. in Maria João Ferreira, Pedro Flor e Teresa Vale, coord., Lisboa e o Estrangeiro | Lisboa dos Estrangeiros até ao terramoto de 1755. Textos de História, História da Arte e Literatura. Lisboa: Câmara Municipal de Lisboa, 2013, pp.... more
publ. in Maria João Ferreira, Pedro Flor e Teresa Vale, coord., Lisboa e o Estrangeiro | Lisboa dos Estrangeiros até ao terramoto de 1755. Textos de História, História da Arte e Literatura. Lisboa: Câmara Municipal de Lisboa, 2013, pp. 123-134.
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The European textile industry was influenced by Asian fabrics, techniques and dyes since the Classical period. It is well-known the Roman fascination for Chinese silk and Indian cottons, which continued in later times with the influence... more
The European textile industry was influenced by Asian fabrics, techniques and dyes since the Classical period. It is well-known the Roman fascination for Chinese silk and Indian cottons, which continued in later times
with the influence Sasanian Iran had in the production of Byzantine fabrics consumed in Europe, as well as the subsequent importance Islamic textiles had in inspiring the design of the cloth woven in Italy, along with the use of Asian dyes (such as indigo and madder) by Europe’s textile industry. If this Asian influence seems to be indisputable in Mediterranean Europe from an early age, it is useful to have a comparative perspective
with the rest of the continent since the commercial revolution of the 13th century, in order to assess its true
impact before the great transformation fueled by the European imperial expansion of the Early Modern Age (ca. 1500) and, later, with the beginning of the Industrial Revolution (ca. 1750).
Hence, we propose a quadripartite approach to study this theme on a multi and interdisciplinary perspective:
1) The importance of trade in the construction of a European taste and consumption of Asian textiles, and
how these influenced the creation of a hybrid visual culture and the design and manufacture of mixed and
complex pieces in Europe;
2) How the Asian textile techniques and dyeing plants influenced European production, in order to know
where, how, in what way (whether it was a simple copy or a recreation) and when these influxes took place;3) How the importation of Asian dyeing plants (like indigo and madder) had an impact on European
production, replacing older dyes, and also on knowledge production to cultivate such plants (or try to find
substitutes) in Europe’s colonies;
4) How the creation of substitute commodities in Europe since the Industrial Revolution, along with the
revolution in chemistry in the 19th century to replace the natural dyes, allowed European cloths to compete
successfully with Asian originals all over the world.
with the influence Sasanian Iran had in the production of Byzantine fabrics consumed in Europe, as well as the subsequent importance Islamic textiles had in inspiring the design of the cloth woven in Italy, along with the use of Asian dyes (such as indigo and madder) by Europe’s textile industry. If this Asian influence seems to be indisputable in Mediterranean Europe from an early age, it is useful to have a comparative perspective
with the rest of the continent since the commercial revolution of the 13th century, in order to assess its true
impact before the great transformation fueled by the European imperial expansion of the Early Modern Age (ca. 1500) and, later, with the beginning of the Industrial Revolution (ca. 1750).
Hence, we propose a quadripartite approach to study this theme on a multi and interdisciplinary perspective:
1) The importance of trade in the construction of a European taste and consumption of Asian textiles, and
how these influenced the creation of a hybrid visual culture and the design and manufacture of mixed and
complex pieces in Europe;
2) How the Asian textile techniques and dyeing plants influenced European production, in order to know
where, how, in what way (whether it was a simple copy or a recreation) and when these influxes took place;3) How the importation of Asian dyeing plants (like indigo and madder) had an impact on European
production, replacing older dyes, and also on knowledge production to cultivate such plants (or try to find
substitutes) in Europe’s colonies;
4) How the creation of substitute commodities in Europe since the Industrial Revolution, along with the
revolution in chemistry in the 19th century to replace the natural dyes, allowed European cloths to compete
successfully with Asian originals all over the world.
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The scientific journal Conservar Património, in collaboration with the Textiles, Trade & Taste and the University of Amsterdam, welcomes submissions for a special issue on the topic of historical textiles, and their investigation in the... more
The scientific journal Conservar Património, in collaboration with the Textiles, Trade & Taste and the University of Amsterdam, welcomes submissions for a special issue on the topic of historical textiles, and their investigation in the areas of conservation science, conservation and restoration, museum studies, archaeology, art history and other related disciplines.
Research Interests: Museum Studies, History of Textiles, Textile Conservation, Fibres and textiles, Textiles (Art History), and 7 moreTextile Technology, Textile, Archaeological textiles and clothing, Natural Dyes, History Of Texiles, Conservation Of Textiles,Archaeology, Texts and Textiles / Material Culture / Oriental Carpets / Textile Theory, and Metal Threads in Textiles
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Se reúnen en este libro parte de los textos que se presentaron en el seminario Mujeres de la realeza Ibérica como mediadoras políticas y culturales que se celebró en Instituto Cervantes de Lisboa con el apoyo del CHAM FCSH/NOVA-UAç y la... more
Se reúnen en este libro parte de los textos que se presentaron en el seminario Mujeres de la realeza Ibérica como mediadoras políticas y culturales que se celebró en Instituto Cervantes de Lisboa con el apoyo del CHAM FCSH/NOVA-UAç y la FCT. Partiendo del proyecto estratégico colectivo "Fronteras" del CHAM, este libro reúne un conjunto de artículos de historiadores e historiadores del arte que analiza los límites de la diplomacia de las mujeres de la realeza de la Península Ibérica y sus diferentes formas de mediación política y cultural del siglo XVI al XVIII. El libro presta particular atención a diversos aspectos de la mediación de las mujeres de la realeza tales como las relaciones diplomáticas entre monarquías y la firma de paces; la negociación de contratos matrimoniales para los hijos y familiares, la articulación de redes como variable del aumento de su influencia y poder. Otro núcleo temático principal es el de la devoción, que se analiza como elemento constituyente profundo de la identidad de estas mujeres. Finalmente se aborda un análisis multidisciplinar de los intercambios culturales que se producen gracias a ellas. *** Neste livro fazem parte textos apresentados no seminário Mujeres de la realeza Ibérica como mediadoras políticas y culturales realizado no Instituto Cervantes de Lisboa com o apoio do CHAM FCSH / NOVA-UA e FCT. Com base no projeto estratégico coletivo "Fronteras" do CHAM, este livro reúne uma coleção de artigos de historiadores e historiadores de arte que analisam os limites da diplomacia das mulheres reais da Península Ibérica e das suas diversas formas de mediação política e cultural do século XVI ao século XVIII. Este livro presta especial atenção a vários aspectos da mediação de mulheres da realeza, tais como as relações diplomáticas entre monarquias e a assinatura da paz; a ne-gociação de contratos matrimoniais para os filhos e familiares, a articulação de redes como variável do aumento da sua influência e poder. Outro núcleo temático principal é o da devoção, que é analisada como um elemento constituinte profundo da identidade destas mulheres. Por fim, é abordada uma análise multidisciplinar das trocas culturais produzidas.