Wine Economics

Similar to other foods, the concept of natural wine is much debated due to the lack of a clear and regulated definition, leading to a proliferation of heterogeneous norms and standards proposed from different natural wine associations at national levels. The current study explored the aspects which mediate individuals' information and perception of natural wine, and the rationale behind natural wine consumption behavior among Italian (n = 501) and Spanish (n = 527) regular wine consumers. The results reveal a quite low self-reported degree of perceived information by Italian respondents and slightly higher levels among Spanish ones. The key drivers of natural wine consumption in both countries are wine consumption frequency, information, and natural product interest. In contrast, higher wine involvement levels decrease natural wine consumption frequency in both Italy and Spain. The findings also show that different perceptions lead to diverse motivations, suggesting the need for more homogeneous standards to mitigate the level of information asymmetry currently on the market.

In the last few years, the interaction between more conscious consumers and wine supply chain actors, has influenced the complex, and somewhere trendy, phenomenon of wine consumption. In Europe, the growing number of wine clubs and associations, the ...

Según la Ley de la Viña y el Vino, éste “es el alimento natural obtenido exclusivamente por fermentación alcohólica, total o parcial, de uva fresca, estrujada o no, de mosto de uva” (Art. 2 Ley 24/2003, Gobierno de España). La RAE, en su séptima acepción de “natural” como adjetivo, define aquello “Que se produce por solas las fuerzas de la naturaleza,
como contrapuesto a sobrenatural y milagroso”. Por tanto, la relación entre vino y alimento queda establecida en el marco normativo y definitorio español. Sin embargo, el vino continúa siendo el único producto alimentario no sujeto a regulación de etiquetado en cuanto a ingredientes y aditivos en todo el mundo. Ante esta tesitura comenzamos nuestra línea de investigación sobre vino, patrimonio,
alimentación y salud, preguntándonos: ¿es sano/insano cualquier vino independientemente de su proceso productivo y propiedades organolépticas?, ¿son estos factores tenidos en cuenta en la certificación de la calidad del vino? La respuesta inmediata es que es imposible saberlo. ¿Cuá- les son las consecuencias de esta situación anómala, y qué podemos hacer desde la investigación aplicada?

Hallel. Carmel. Bezalel

The Exhibitions:
Halel. Carmel Winery
'Judaica Now!':
Goblets and Kiddush Cups
of the Bezalel School

These two exhibitions: "Halel. Carmel Winery" and
"'Judaica Now!': Goblets and Kiddush Cups of the Bezalel
School" focus on two pioneering phenomenon. Both of them,
each one in its own specific field, established a material
and cultural infrastructure for the renewal of the Jewish
settlement in Eretz Israel. The two integrated exhibitions
presented here show the primary aspects where these two
enterprises overlap. The principal point here is the fact that
their produce, wine in Rishon Le‑Zion and art in Bezalel,
symbolized the regenerated Jewish settlement. Moreover,
most of their products were purchased by Jews in the
Diaspora as an emotional gesture of love for Eretz Israel
together with a contribution for the realization of the idea
for its settlement.
The "Halel. Carmel Winery" exhibition tells the story of
the winery from its historical perspective. The winery
symbolized the realization of the dream of settling
Eretz Israel. Thus, it became a source of pride and a center
of attraction for the leaders of the people and the world
who pinned their hopes on it and visited the winery. The
historical exhibition aims to show how innovative the
Rishon Le-Zion winery was during its early years as it was
recognized as the prominent modern agricultural-industrial
plant in the Middle Eastern region. The winery played a key
role in the economic life of Rishon Le-Zion and the Jewish
settlements in the surrounding area. The exhibition displays
its development, achievements, challenges, transitions,
connections with the Diaspora and how it influenced
Rishon Le-Zion and the Yishuv in Eretz Israel. The exhibition
focuses mainly on the first few decades of the winery's
existence which were also the most momentous years in
its history, during which a modern industrial model was
developed leading to a breakthrough in the country.
The Bezalel exhibition 'Judaica Now'!: Goblets and
Kiddush Cups of the Bezalel School"is displayed from the
contemporary artistic standpoint. In this exhibition also
some 48 exhibits of contemporary wine and Kiddush cups,
handmade by artists and designers belonging to the Bezalel
School, are displayed. The philosophy and artistic language
of the School's members, men and women, were apparent as
expressed in the holy vessels and articles. The participants in
this group show had all attended Bezalel either as students
or teachers, some served as department heads. A large
group among these artists later became the elite of leading
Judaica artists, whose creations now enrich the collections of
important museums in Israel and throughout the world.

Curators:
"Hallel. Carmel Winery": Yona Shapira
"'Judaica Now!': Wine goblets and Kiddush cups of the
Bezalel School": Dr. Shirat‑Miriam Shamir, Ido Noy


הלַלֵּ. כרמל. בצלאל
התערוכות:
הַללֵּ. יקב כרמל
'יודאיקה עכשיו!':
כוסות וגביעי יין לקידוש
של אסכולת בצלאל

שתי התערוכות עוסקות בשני מפעלים חלוציים: יקב ראשון־לציון
ובית הספר לאמנויות "בצלאל". שניהם, כל אחד בתחומו, הניחו
תשתית חומרית ותרבותית ליישוב היהודי המתחדש בארץ ישראל.
שתי התערוכות המוצגות במשולב, מציגות את נקודות ההשקה בין שני
המפעלים. העיקרית שבהן היא העובדה שתוצריהם, היין ואמנות בצלאל,
היוו סמל ליישוב היהודי המתחדש ונרכשו על ידי יהודי הגולה כמחווה
רגשית של אהבת ארץ ישראל וכתרומה למען הגשמת הרעיון של
יישובה. היקב מוצג מן הזווית ההיסטורית ואילו בצלאל מוצג מנקודת
מבט אמנותית עכשווית.
היקב היה סמל להגשמת חזון יישוב ארץ ישראל, מקור לגאווה ואבן
שואבת למנהיגי עם ועולם שנשאו עיניהם אליו וביקרו בו. התערוכה
"הלל. יקב כרמל" מבקשת להציג את החדשנות של יקב ראשון־לציון
בשנותיו הראשונות כמפעל תעשיה חקלאית מודרני הבולט במרחב
המזרח התיכון ועומד במרכז חיי הכלכלה של ראשון־לציון ומושבות
הסביבה. בתערוכה מוצגים התפתחותו, הישגיו, אתגריו, גלגוליו,
קשריו עם הגולה והשפעתו על ראשון־לציון ועל הישוב בארץ־ישראל.
עיקר התערוכה עוסק בעשורים הראשונים לקיום היקב שהיו השנים
המשמעותיות בתולדותיו שבמהלכן עוצב בו מודל תעשייתי חדשני
ופורץ דרך בארץ.
התערוכה, "׳יודאיקה עכשיו!׳: כוסות וגביעי יין לקידוש של אסכולת
בצלאל" מציגה 48 גביעי יין וקידוש עכשוויים מעשה ידיהם של אמנים
ומעצבים השייכים לאסכולת בצלאל. מהתערוכה ניבטת תפיסת העולם
ושפתם האמנותית של חברי וחברות האסכולה כפי שאלו מקבלות ביטוי
בתשמישי קדושה. משתתפי התערוכה הקבוצתית, עברו כולם בבצלאל:
בין שלמדו או שלימדו בו או בין שהובילו אותו כראשי המחלקות. חלק
נכבד מאמנים אלה נעשו לאמני היודאיקה המובילים, שיצירותיהם
מעטרות את אוספי המוזיאונים החשובים בישראל ובעולם.

אוצרים:
הלל, יקב כרמל: יונה שפירא
'יודאיקה עכשיו!': כוסות וגביעי יין לקידוש
של אסכולת בצלאל: ד"ר שירת־מרים שמיר ועידו נוי

A value chain analysis of the wine sector in CEFTA countries: Serbia, North Macedonia, Montenegro, Bosnia Hercegovina, Kosovo, Albania, Moldova.
The study examines the competitiveness of the wine sector in each CEFTA country focusing on the potentials in autochthonous varieties such as Blatina and Zilavka in BiH, Prokupac and Tamjanika in Serbia, Vranac in Montenegro.

Archaeology seems to support the idea of widespread Minoan trading contacts and a significant number of Minoan colonies. The distribution of the place name “Minoa” in the Aegean and in the eastern and central Mediterranean also appears to imply Minoan colonies. However, we must not forget that it was the famed archaeologist Arthur Evans who gave the Minoan civilization its name. It is possible that the Minoans went by a different name entirely. If the Bronze Age Cretan king was known as “Minos”,  it is quite possible that the king’s colonies were named “Minoa” after him, but this is just speculation.

¿Vino natural?, pero ¿qué es lo que no es natural en el vino?, ¿es que existe un vino artificial? El vino es el resultado exclusivo del proceso de fermentación alcohólica de la uva o del mosto de uva; sin embargo, esta no se realiza por intervención divina. El vino es consecuencia directa de un número infinito de factores y decisiones. Entonces, ¿qué nivel de intervención en el vino se considera aceptable? El simple hecho de hablar de “vino natural” es controvertido. Joan Gómez Pallarés, catedrático de Filología Latina en la Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona, creador del Blog De Vinis. Un relato sobre vinos y personas (www.devinis.org) y redactor de “El vino de la semana” en la sección “Placeres” de El País Semanal, afronta este debate al escribir el libro que nos convoca, Vinos Naturales en España. Placer auténtico y agricultura sostenible en la copa.

Natural wine is a small but rapidly growing sector within the wine industry. Expertise in the field has been advanced by wine experts and professionals, while publications to aid in further understanding the topic lag behind. This manuscript highlights the need to develop more rigorous methodologies to better understand the market segment of natural wine, its consumers, and their composition and behaviour. Moreover, it calls for a deeper theoretical engagement with the notion of natural wine, which positions it among other sustainable and ecological certifications, including organic, biodynamic or sulphite-free. This would allow researchers to advance from the current state of knowledge, which continues to limit our 'practical' capacity for advice to policy makers but not to winemakers and marketers. These theoretical and methodological developments would allow scholars to catch up with debates being held by different social actors in the natural wine scene, including winemakers' and consumer associations, bloggers, writers and professional marketers.

This paper explores the emergence of the terroirist social movement in Spain and the controversies arising from it. We assess its role in transforming the Spanish wine scene and wine regions from the combined perspective of rural and social movement studies. Spain boasts the largest surface area of vineyards and the largest volume of wine exports of any country, yet it also sells the cheapest wine and lacks wine zoning policies, which makes Spain unique among traditional wine-producing countries. Considering this situation, a group of terroir-driven winemakers are challenging the Spanish industrial wine establishment. They have built networks in rural areas throughout the country and are actively involved in local grassroots movements, aiming to produce quality wines with added value, recover neglected wine regions and grape varieties, and reinstate traditional wine culture. While the movement displays certain elite and populist tendencies, it remains radical in its attempt to challenge a deep-seated economic model dominated by large companies with a powerful lobby that influences the government.

"What does a gentleman who has worked throughout his life for the Sherry wine establishment shares with the son of a bricklayer who has worked for more than a decade for a large industrial wine cellar and has spent his salary buying small parcels of old vines in his town to prevent their uprooting and who, eventually, brings the fruit of these vines to the market? And what do they have in common with a group of university friends who set up a wine consulting company that makes some of the most innovative wines in their different territories? (…) We are talking here about a heterogeneous group of people whose lives have a common thread." (Gutiérrez, 2017 : 27)

2This common thread is of interest to anthropologists and food scholars in general, or at least it should be. In his first sole-authored book, Luis Gutiérrez offers a detailed portrayal of a new generation of winemakers who are transforming the Spanish wine sector. Wine production in Spain was traditionally characterized by an industrial approach geared towards quantity rather than quality, leading Spanish wines to be the cheapest worldwide, both bottled and in bulk. This much-welcomed intervention would be less relevant were we talking about a person with less trajectory or influence in the real world. But Luis Gutiérrez is a wine taster and critic for Spain, Latin America and the French Jura region for the Wine Advocate, the most influential global wine magazine led by the famous wine critic Robert Parker. He also published extensively in culinary journals worldwide and for jancisrobinson.com, co-authoring the book 1001 wines you must try before you die (Beckett, 2014) and The Finest Wines of Rioja and Northwestern Spain (Barquín, 2011).

El vino está de moda, no solo como producto simbólico diferenciado en los términos que explicaba Bourdieu (1984), sino también como “superalimento”, por su potencial nutritivo y concentración de antioxidantes, resveratrol o vitaminas. Numerosos estudios subrayan los beneficios del consumo moderado de vino, entre los que se encuentran la reducción de enfermedades cardiovasculares, cancerígenas o la mejora de la función cognitiva. Sin embargo, hasta la fecha no existen investigaciones que analicen las prácticas productivas y enológicas que confieren al vino este tipo de propiedades. Es, además, desconocido para el consumidor el listado de ingredientes que contiene una botella de vino, mientras que cualquier otro producto alimentario debe etiquetar cualquier tipo de aditivo. Consecuentemente, no es posible diferenciar qué vino es saludable en base a los criterios de certificación de calidad existentes.
La profunda crítica a las implicaciones de la chaptalización no resultaría quizás tan demoledora de no ser por las credenciales del autor. Yravedra es Presidente Honorario de la Organización Internacional de la Viña y el Vino (OIV). A lo largo de su vida ha desarrollado una importante defensa de la calidad del vino y de las Denominaciones de Origen, tanto españoles como internacionales, en foros como la OIV y en el Comité Científico de Denominaciones de Origen de Productos Alimentarios de la Unión Europea.

Exploramos, en el presente artículo, el surgimiento y debate actual en torno al movimiento terroirista en España desde la perspectiva de los movimientos sociales y rurales. La transformación de la escena vitivinícola española se ha convertido en un fenómeno objeto de estudio desde el ámbito académico, político y social: España cuenta con la mayor superficie de viñedos del mundo, el mayor volumen de exportación y el precio medio de venta de litro de vino más barato. Además, carece de políticas de zonificación, lo que hace que España sea única entre los países tradicionalmente productores de vino-como Francia, Italia o Portugal. Sin embargo, un grupo de productores desafía el modelo vitícola industrial en España, afianzando redes en áreas rurales de todo el país y participando en acciones nacionales e internacionales con el objetivo de producir vinos de calidad y elevados precios, recuperando regiones tradicionalmente productivas, variedades de uva autóctonas y restableciendo la cultura del vino en España. Si bien el movimiento muestra tendencias elitistas, es radical en su desafío a grandes empresas, industrias y cooperativas: un poderoso lobby que influye en el actual sistema de gobernanza del sector basado en el sistema de Denominaciones de Origen. Abstract This article explores the emergence and current debate around the terroirist movement in Spain and the social movements behind it in rural areas. The transformation of the Spanish wine scene has become an object of study in * La publicación de este trabajo ha sido decidida en forma excepcional por el Comité Editorial de RIVAR. Se trata de la versión en español del texto publicado originalmente en inglés, en Journal of Rural Studies. Se ha resuelto publicarlo por considerarse un tema de interés especial para la línea editorial de RIVAR.